/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>inb4 shitstorm
but seriously, there are plenty of purely mechanically assembled joints that are extremely strong. It really depends on what it is needed for.

screws
nails
dowels
dovetails

>>1509833
>What's the strongest non-adhesive joint?

pocket.

/thread

Granddaddy purple

>>1509838
Say joining two pieces of wood at a 90° angle, like in the OP.

>>1509833
A weld.

>>1509833
square bracket

>>1509833
Melting the product down and forming as a solid product

>>1509833
Japanese joinery.

It sure as hell isn't dovetails. They don't hold the join rigid without adhesive.

>>1509883
with forces acting in which direction(s)?

>>1509833
Steel bracket joint

>>1509901
Yeah, but which one?
>>1509915
Bending forces, secondarily compressive.

>>1509891
>>1509900
both are a form of adhesion.

uh, wedged mortise+tenon?

probably screws though

>>1509973
>wedged mortise+tenon
That's good and permanent, but is it any stronger than your everyday mortise and tenon?

>>1509973
No, that's extremely weak and also relies on tight manufacturing tolerances. You can literally just pull it apart without having to break anything.

For instance, this is much stronger. But can you do better?

>>1509977
Dovetail/fox ear mortise. Optionally blind

>>1509833
OPs mom's well hardened labia

>>1509973
>>1509975
>mortise+tenon
who buys these? i have priced out most power tools for a woodshop and these are retardedly expensive.

>>1509833
This kind

>>1509965
No they aren't. What do you think adhesion is? What do you think welding is?

>>1509833
>>1509973
>>1509977
>>1509975
>>wedged mortise+tenon

if you hit the wedge too hard it will crack the tenon. go dovetails or some jap method.

>>1509977
That is such an aesthetically pleasing gif.

>>1510156
You dont need any power tools. Just a handsaw and a chisel. It's a very easy joint. Paul sellers has a lot on youtube with them.

The power tool for cutting the mortise is cool, but totally unnecessary. You can make a square tenon with a router, and make a round mortise with one too

>>1510159
DUDE

>>1509833

Whats wrong with white wood glue?

It's literally the strongest joint when cut and assembled properly.

Cum. I need a scraper to get it off my girlfriends face after it dries

>>1510952
>or some jap method.
please elaborate?

>>1511261
see
>>1509977

>gorilla glue
>Loctite

One slightly humid day and all your retarded glues area fucking dead.

>Hurrrr but they are not for wet or exterior environments.

Take your snowflake, inside furniture back into your toothpick and paper machet house. But be careful, if an angle valve springs a leak you need to replace everything

>>1509977
what is this called?

>>1511303
雇い枘車知栓仕口 (Yatoi-hozo-shachi-sen-shiguchi)

From thejoinery.jp
https://twitter.com/TheJoinery_jp has more

>>1511306
wow i got caught up watching all the gifs once.

that is super interesting.
and also autistic as fuck. is there any merit to any of those joints are is for people who meditate by carving joints?

>>1511313
>are is for people
jfc.
*or are they for people

>>1511313
Decent wood glue was only invented during the industrial revolution. The best glue available historically was literally gelatin, subject to decay and water damage, and almost uselessly weak by modern standards (it holds on in niche uses where a glued joint needs to be able to be taken apart later without damage to the wood). So woodworkers developed fancy joinery to get strong, stable joints with little or no need for glue.

Nowadays, it's mostly for the sake of matching traditional styles. The availability of cheap and strong adhesives and mechanical fasteners means that an engineer won't specify a fancy joint unless the client wants that particular style.

>>1511502
>The best glue available historically was literally gelatin, subject to decay and water damage, and almost uselessly weak by modern standards

tell me more about the historical glues, didnt they also used tree resin? That stuff is quite strong.

>>1511502
very informative, thanks.

>>1511503
>didnt they also used tree resin? That stuff is quite strong.
Yes they did, and no it isn't. It can be used as a sticky binder / sealer for fibrous things that actually carry the load, but it doesn't do much as a structural adhesive. Animal glues are made by cooking connective tissue to turn the collagen into a gel that can be used a a glue. Properly prepared on a tight joint with enough contact area to accommodate its lower-than-wood strength, it can make strong bonds that last if it is kept cool and dry. It's still used in stringed instruments like violins, which are periodically taken apart for maintenance, and the weakness of the glue ensures clean separation. Cheap polyvinyl acetate glue like white school glue is much stronger and tougher, and a good modern wood glue like Titebond III is weatherproof and stronger still. A good epoxy can fill gaps and last indefinitely in marine or high-stress applications. Collagen is digestible by humans, let alone environmental bacteria, and it is useless in wet / outside applications, where it just disintegrates. Much of what we take for granted today was invented relatively recently.

>>1511531
>A good epoxy can fill gaps and last indefinitely in marine or high-stress applications.

You are refering to poly based epoxy I assume? what did they used for marine purpouses before? From what I rememmber they filled the gaps between wood with some sort of rope.

>>1509833
E-beam welding
Traditional welding
Chemical welding
sintering
brazing
bolts
Interlocked pegs
peg

>>1511604
>brazing
Careful there anon, brazing can loosely be considered a form of adhesive bond.

>>1511555
>poly based epoxy
I was referring to something like T-88. All epoxies are polymers, so what exactly are you asking there?

>what did they used for marine purpouses before?
Mechanical connections like pegged joinery for structural loads, with separate sealer to keep out water. Old rope, unraveled and soaked with tar, was commonly used to seal baps between planks.

>>1511968
>All epoxies are polymers, so what exactly are you asking there?

Im looking for organci hippie methods of sealing that breathe and help wood last longer, you already put me on the right track

>Old rope, unraveled and soaked with tar

thanks!
What do you think about modern application of tarred rope in wooden windows of houses?

>>1509901
Almost all dovetails beyond the stupid showy one people love for boxes/cabinets/drawers hold without glue, a sliding tapered dovetail is even water tight and very strong.

>>1511526
It is not as informative as you think and has the engineers screwy view of everything as it is when new.

Modern adhesives means the wood fails instead of the joint when it does break, often times this means it is more or less garbage, almost always considerably more difficult to fix than proper joints and glue selection.

In reality most mass consumption furniture is more screw than glue, some amount of mid grade stuff is glued with no thought to the long term, high quality furniture mostly sticks to those techniques that were worked out the hard way and they tend to fail gracefully and fix easily.

Most engineers make terrible wood workers.

>>1512263
Rope is not good here, the fibers are twisted good and tight so you can not drive it in. Oakum is likely best, cotton next, you can get suitable stuff for caulking from places that sell boat stuff. Do a search for caulking carvel boats, it will teach you how to fill those gaps good and proper.

Do it when the weather has been dry for awhile, if you do it during a humid spell it might just fall out once you get a good dry spell.

>>1511306
They’re worse than the fucking Germans

>VWtimingchain.jpeg

>>1512501
That doesn't seem possible to actually fit together...

>>1512533
It is. If you look at it from the right angle it just looks like ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||.

>>1512487
>Most engineers make terrible wood workers.
Depends on what you're doing. If you want no breakage or disassembly over the life of something, you use strong modern glue. Traditional glue is completely unacceptable for wooden boats or aircraft, for example, and it is far inferior for most wooden structures. Note that these are projects where an actual engineer would be involved. As I mentioned, it holds on in niche applications where tradition or the need to disassemble something later takes priority over strength and durability. Also note that "high quality" furniture of the sort you're talking about is largely a status symbol these days, so using more expensive production methods is a feature.

>>1512878
There is no such thing as 'no breakage,' generally the cause of failure is a sudden quick force, with hide the glue will give, with PVA or better the wood will give, one is easy to fix, the other is a pain and often the wood is too damaged for reliable repair.

Only disposable boats are just glued, any meant to last are a hybrid construction utilizing fibreglass or the like, you talk about niche uses and you give two of the most niche uses of wood and glue, far smaller of a niche than either instruments or quality furniture.

All cross grain glued joints will break down over time regardless of glue used, expansion and contraction over time either breaks down the glue or the wood, they will generally last about the same amount of time regardless of the glue used.

With the exception of fish glues, hide glue will be stronger than the common woods, strength is not an issue here.

Quality furniture is for anyone who sees the value of buying furniture just once instead of buying over and over. Was not aware that knowing the value of ones money was a status thing. Personally I would rather save up and buy furniture that will outlast me instead of replacing it when shoddy construction causes it to fail.

I was wrong to mistake you for an engineer, any engineer would see sense beyond status in quality well constructed furniture.

No single glue is superior, they each have their use, unfortunately many are unable to see beyond new=improved and we live in a world of disposable goods.

>>1512497
>Do a search for caulking carvel boats

Thanks anon, will do, Im sick of seeing that dogshit poly foam on every window.

>>1512487
>Modern adhesives means the wood fails instead of the joint when it does break

Yep, its a big problem even if you do the strongest possible dovetail, if you put poly glue it will brake the wood.

>>1512878
>Also note that "high quality" furniture of the sort you're talking about is largely a status symbol these days, so using more expensive production methods is a feature.

Not, when by "high quality" you mean something that doesnt fall apart within 5 years or smth that isnt a bloated shipboard. American Shakers built "high quality" furniture but it was nothing luxurious, just rediculously durable and well made - it was working class minimalistic in desing - everything dovetail, even the back of drawers.

>>1513267
>bloated shipboard

*chipboard

>>1509846
nobody took your bait... gonna have to step up your game, son.

>>1509833
double shear

>>1509833
Hiring a guy with really big arms to hold the joint in place with his hands.

Screws + pic related will literally be stronger than any joint possible.

It's true and you know it. Deal with it autists.

>>1514205

>>1509861
Unappriciated post

>>1511555
>what did they used for marine purpouses before?
tar

>>1514218
>>1514205
>Screws + pic related will literally be stronger than any joint possible.

but that is the problem you one dimensional dumbass, too strong joint doesnt have "microplay" which means wood will break itself when it starts too move with moisture.

>>1514247
Tar was bottom coat, kept the wood worms away, and cheap bedding compound for when aesthetics and a sticky crew were not a concern

Boats did not use ahessive, wood swells in the presence of moisture and if you deal with your joints properly they will swell into a more or less watertight joint.

Here's an interesting anecdote. I have a machete, it's is about 200 years old it was my greatX7 grandmother's. The handle is wood. I myself have reglued it 3 times, with tight bond 2. I'm sure it's been repaired at least 50 times. Different glued over along time. They all worked.

>>1511306
>https://twitter.com/TheJoinery_jp
how do you even go about making half of these without machining anything

>>1514434
Sales and chisels.

Not much harder to cut than dovetails, just a hall of a lot harder to layout, still just working to a line.

>>1514444
SAWS and chisels, dame autocorrect.

>>1514418
>they all worked
>had to be repaired at least 50 times

>>1514404
Joints were not waterproof or even water resistant. Sailors used to cram oakum, hemp, or cotton line into the joints to fill them and then coat it in tar. It was called Caulking.

>>1514451
Everything that is that old is either getting repaired or replaced. Especially on something like a machete that gets beat to fuck.

>>1514452
That is only carvel contruction, lapstrake (clinker) is just wood against wood.

Whatever is holding this thing together, it seems to have lasted awhile

Actually on stone henge they replace the nails every 8 months

>>1514491
It was rebuilt.

>>1514252

You do realise that a lot of these high end, high strength adhesives have high levels of flexibility, right?

More flexibility than some over engineered piece of meme joinery that’s for sure.

>>1514549
when?

>>1514573
They do not have anywhere near enough flex to prevent wood from breaking, they would fail as adhesives if they did. They have enough flex to make sure the glued wood fibres do not tear themselves to pieces from seasonal movement and that they can flex with the wood instead of break down when the wood flexes.

They still have to much strength for furniture, puts all the stress on the glue joint instead of spreading the stress acoss the cut joint, which is a major function of these joints that this thread seems to be over looking. Glue and screws can not spread the stress even remotely as well as proper joinery. Flex 's important, but secondary to distributing the load.

>>1514602
The last major one was in 1963. They reraised a fallen stone and... set it and a few more in concrete bases. Prior to that, they did a major restoration in 1958 where they raised 3 large stones and also set them in concrete. A stone was also raised in 1901 and set it concrete. Picture related, top, is how it looked in 1877. Bottom is the same angle taken recently.

>>1509833
Been thinking about this, and assuming the dimensions of the pieces to be joined are the 3/4s or so of the pic then I think dovetailing with a draw bored dowel from top to bottom and wedges into the ends of the dowel would be the strongest for getting a clean corner without any glue. You would have to cut it pretty much perfectly and experiment with the drawbored pins diameter and offset to find the best size for the given woods used, but if cut well, it would last a very long time, likely outlast any glued dovetail.

The drawbored dowel pulls the joint tight and the wedges push everything together top to bottom.

I may have to try this, would need to fashion my own drawbore pin and drilling the holes for it just right would be a bitch to figure out, but it would be damn strong. Never seen such a joint executed.

>>1514628
Second to that would be an offset mortise a tenon with the tenon wedged, much easier to execute an almost as strong.

Both joints would require well seasoned and dried wood to last through the ages.

>>1514630
Draw boring the tenon instead of wedging may be better, or even making your own cut nails from one of the very hard woods like lignum vitate, hornbeam or osage orange and driving them through in place of the draw bored dowels.

Fun puzzle!

>>1514491
>>1514623
the more interesting thing about stonehenge are the vast amounts of sites surrounding it

>>1514633
also how they found many giant skeletons in the surrounding areas

>>1509861
gorilla glue and green crack adhere me to the couch moreso than gdp desu

>>1514630
>Both joints would require well seasoned and dried wood to last through the ages.

Im not that familiar with drying, but why is it important for wood to be dry when working with it? In case youll make an outdoor structure that will get wet, shouldnt you work with a wood that has similar moiusture as the setting instead of room setting dried?

Also doesnt the wedged mortisse tennon put too much stress on the tennon? I know that you can break the tennon if over wedging so it might affect it when it stretches with moisture?

>>1514702
>In case youll make an outdoor structure that will get wet, shouldnt you work with a wood that has similar moiusture as the setting instead of room setting dried?

Yes and no, The way the wood is to be joined will dictate if you want your wood green or dry regardless of the setting. There are techniques for making indoor furniture with green wood such as the windsor chair, the drying of the wood in the finished chair makes the joints tight and long lasting despite the lack of glue, making these chairs from dried wood results in a chair which does not last as long regardless of the glue used. Conversely if you made a standard modern wooden deck with all of its screws out of wet wood it will likely start splitting when the dry season comes and the sun cooks all of its moisture out and the wood shrinks, it also means any applied finish will take forever to dry and may not cure properly at all. But we can build long lasting chairs from dry wood and long lasting decks from wet wood, we just need to take that into account in our construction techniques. In the case of the joints talked about here and what OP wants, well dried and well seasoned wood is best since these joints loosen up and loose their strength if the wood shrinks from continued moisture loss after the joint is completed.

>>1514803
>But we can build long lasting chairs from dry wood and long lasting decks from wet wood, we just need to take that into account in our construction techniques.

Honestly, that is above my skill level, but thanks for an informative response.

>In the case of the joints talked about here and what OP wants, well dried and well seasoned wood is best since these joints loosen up and loose their strength if the wood shrinks from continued moisture loss after the joint is completed.

I agree, generally speaking dried is better since most builds are done in summer or for room temperatures, but still wouldnt it be risky to use room dried wood for an outdoor project you build in rainy autumn? That way already tight joints might get tighter to the point of braking when wood starts swelling? pic kind of related

>>1514702
>Also doesnt the wedged mortisse tennon put too much stress on the tennon? I know that you can break the tennon if over wedging so it might affect it when it stretches with moisture?

The tenon will not break from the wedges, but the sides/ends of the mortise certainly can, if it happens from wood expansion than the joint was not properly sized for the materials or not properly cut. Most common cause is the joint is brought too close to the edge of the board, next the wedges are oversized or the tapers on the ends of the mortise the that wedges displace the tenon into as they are driven, are not matched to the wedges.

Wedged mortise and tenons are not the best for outdoor items but they are used, generally you would want the wood as dry as it will ever get in the areas dry season since if this joint dries out post construction, the wedges get loose and may fall out robbing the joint of its ability to hold against any force that pulls on the tenon. Often times when you see this joint used outdoors, or any wedged joint, the wedge is left proud so it can be knocked in deeper as needed. A draw bored mortise and tenon is far more common in outdoor and green wood items, more robust and no wedge to check, but sometimes the wedge is the best option. When used outdoors both need to be sized properly to not become loose in the dry times or split in the wet, we can do it with either dry or green lumber.

>>1514807
>I agree, generally speaking dried is better since most builds are done in summer or for room temperatures, but still wouldnt it be risky to use room dried wood for an outdoor project you build in rainy autumn? That way already tight joints might get tighter to the point of braking when wood starts swelling? pic kind of related

It would be risky if you did not take into account the expansion of the wood in your joinery choices, just as it would be risky if you used green wood and did not take into account the shrinking of the wood as it dries, and yes even outdoor wooden objects made of green wood dry out, if they do not, they rot.

>>1514820
>It would be risky if you did not take into account the expansion of the wood in your joinery choices

What joints would you recommend that would account for expansions? Dovetails are a bad choice I assume.

>>1514820
>green wood and did not take into account the shrinking of the wood as it dries, and yes even outdoor wooden objects made of green wood dry out, if they do not, they rot.

sounds like a dark art - so how and when (!) would you build a ski sled then? Winter with greenwood (stored in basemend in summer)?

how about pic rel? In summer but not entirely dried out? isnt that a kind of dovetail?

>>1514803
>There are techniques for making indoor furniture with green wood such as the windsor chair, the drying of the wood in the finished chair makes the joints tight

totally mental! how do joints get tighter when drying? how dependent that build is regarding cliamte - can a different climate brake it?

>>1514832
>What joints would you recommend that would account for expansions? Dovetails are a bad choice I assume.

Dovetails handle expansion fine, but are only good for large timbers when used outdoors, such dovetailed log cabins. Mortise and tenon are the classic, with drawbore pins, perhaps glue as well, depends. You just need to size them properly for the conditions, leave enough wood on all sides of the motrise so expansion of the tenon can not split it. Mostly you just keep up on the maintenance, paint or oil every year, store it in a place that gets good airflow and the wood will reach an equilibrium and settle down.

>would you build a ski sled then? Winter with greenwood (stored in basemend in summer)?

You can do it with either green or dry, if you want a gentleman's sled, use dry and keep up on the maintenance, give it a good cleaning and coat of paint after it has dried out. If aesthetics are not a concern green wood will do, but you will not be able to put any drying finish on it for the first year or two so expect some splitting and checking. Mainly find a tried and true plan that you like and follow it, use the wood it says.

>how about pic rel? In summer but not entirely dried out? isnt that a kind of dovetail?

There are dovetailed log cabins, that would not be one. Log cabins just use green wood, takes far to long for such hunks of wood to dry and it is expensive to buy them dry. So you build green and let the wood dry out in their finished form, gaps open and you shove in the gunk of your choice as needed. Within a decade things are more or less dry and equilibrium is reached, gaps cease opening up.

>>1514837

Wood shrinks as it dries out, the windsor exploits that. The spindle ends are driven into into holes which compress them and the ends are wedged, this holds them tight as things dry, As the seat dries those holes the spindles are driven into also shrink tightening up on the spindles.

Generally the spindles are a different type of wood than the seat and the seat is a much large hunk of wood that holds its moisture through the working, the spindles are quite small and will be fairly dry by the time the chair is assembled, especially the ends which dry out the fastest. So the spindles do not shrink much and the seat does so it's hold on the spindles just increases as the wood dries.

Any wood furniture can self destruct being brought to a new climate, windsors are fairly robust, they are from the times before climate control and take most things gracefully, better than most. There is a reason the basic mechanics of the chair has not changed in over 300 years and it has remained in use and construction for that entire time. There are a fair number of cheap manufactured ones though, they are garbage and do not last long at all, rely completely on glue and are made from poorly dried wood, more windsor style than a windsor chair.

>>1514859
>Generally the spindles are a different type of wood than the seat and the seat is a much large hunk of wood that holds its moisture through the working, the spindles are quite small and will be fairly dry by the time the chair is assembled, especially the ends which dry out the fastest.

that is the trick then. thank you for your post, it was very informative.

also, is there a method in big build log cabins on determining the workable moisture not to end in castrophy? How cautious do you have to be regarding wood dryness and time of the year?

>>1514898
I can not see that a log is going to shrink enough to cause problems with the standard log building techniques. Traditionally you would cut your trees in the winter and build in the summer since those are the down times for that life style, so the logs have a good amount of time between cut and build, but I know of cabins that were built with freshly cut a peeled logs, they do just fine. No idea about 'big' though.

Bend the tree into the shape you want your finished piece while it's young, let it grow thick enough to meet your needs, chop it down, and then mill it to final dimension

>>1514623
2000 years of people just moving stones around, trying to figure out what somebody else did there

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=w78Yb_aotH0

>>1510952
>he doesnt know about wedged tusk tenons

>>1511303
Autism.

>>1517785
That would be for a through tenon, this would not be that, this would be the fox tail sort. Doing a tenon long enough to wedge through as in the tusk, in something of the size in OPs pic would be silly.

>>1509846
Are pocket better then just screwing the flats togheter with glue inbetween?
t. Needs to make a case with 2x4 to house a 4U server chassis.

>>1517800
Not 4*2 but 22*36mm wood.

>>1517800
No, pockets are a way to hide the screws and they weaken the joint.

>>1515206
>someone just tossed some rocks around because they were in the way
>"what did they mean by that?" thought the people that came later and tried to "fix" it
>as well as the ones after that, and more, and more
>until it came to look like we know it now
That would be rather hilarious actually

>>1517835
Ok, thanks.

>>1509833
The joint of friendship

>>1512533
That's so ridiculous and so awesome. Showey? Yes. The person who made that is proud of their skills, and probably rightfully so.

>>1512533

This is autism I can get behind.

>>1511555
For boats it was fiber rope dipped in tar

>>1509961
Can we see an example irl instead of cgi?
>I'm an engineer, and "in theory" vs reality in making it work looks challenging.

>>1512993
(Not the engineer you are replying to)
Thank you for stating it so well. I am a huge fan of getting quality over "its cheap enough" like my wife was.
I broke her of that habit.
Why buy deck chairs every four years when you can get 30+ years out of a quality chair at only 3x the cost?... we will save tons and we will enjoy them better.
Too many people go for 'cheap' because they're lazy.

>>1521278
Not rope, you need loose fibers that you can pack in, oakum, hemp, or cotton, stuffed in dry with a caulking iron and then puttied over, the putty could contain tar, pine or coal, or in a working boat be pure tar, finer vessels used a putty made up from linseed oil or the like that would not bleed through the paint work.

>>1521407
Not him, but that is a joint really only meant to provide strength in tension/compression, only really meant to support its own weight/forces in any other direction, keeps your roof from pushing apart your walls, but not much else.

>>1521409
>Too many people go for 'cheap' because they're lazy.
I think most go for cheap because than they can afford to follow the fashions, they only want it to last and handful of years so they can have an excuse to redecorate with the new fashions.

>>1509833
mortar tenon.

>>1521531
Mortar tenons are on the dangerous side, but you can not beat their speed if you can do them, not much room for error though.

>>1521432
Source on the book?

>>1521592
Wood Joints In Classical Japanese Architecture

Easy to find free online, but not a very good book in the end, gives very little information on the joints use and how they work together within the structure. Mostly it gives you some decent drawings of the joints and some nice pictures showing how they fail, nothing on laying out and cutting.

Would not really recommend unless you just want something to drool over, if you actually want to put these to use there are better options, but none which you are likely to find for free.

I have learned so much in this thread, thanks anons.

>>1521601
>if you actually want to put these to use there are better options
What would that be? Maybe it's on libgen

those weird threaded nails that carpenters use would be good I guess

You want something stronger than the wood itself? Bolts or lag screws.
I gotta say though there's nothing wrong with glue.
Glued finger joints are as strong as you could ever want. Structural finger-joined lumber uses phenol-resorcinol glue and is as good as an equivalent single piece of lumber for construction. In other words, with the right glue, they will withstand permanent loads.
(PVA isn't suitable as a construction adhesive where there is constant bending or tension, because PVA creeps under high sustained loads.)

>>1522119
>You want something stronger than the wood itself? Bolts or lag screws.

Bolts and lag screws weaken the wood itself and without the addition of glue weaken the joint by concentrating forces at the screws/bolts, fine when the wood is of suitable dimensions.

Do not think anyone has said there is something wrong with glue, just wanted to know how to do it without glue.

>>1509833
>>1509833
The strength for a given joint is dependent on what kinds of stresses it will be subjected to. There is no "best joint," only joints that are good for specific applications.

I can't find the chart that goes over the different kinds of joints to use, but it used to be posted on /diy/ all the time.

>>1521432
>Not rope, you need loose fibers that you can pack in, oakum, hemp, or cotton, stuffed in dry with a caulking iron and then puttied over, the putty could contain tar, pine or coal, or in a working boat be pure tar, finer vessels used a putty made up from linseed oil or the like that would not bleed through the paint work.

dude, how do you know all those traditional methods of building?

>>1522407
>dude, how do you know all those traditional methods of building?

I spend my free time learning the skills that interest me and will be useful for me instead of watching TV/movies, and since most people can not maintain a conversation for any amount of time with some one who does not watch things I have little social life and plenty of time for learning.

>>1522425
anon, I sare the same passion what country are you from? Croatia here. Could we stay in touch?

>>1521671
Been trying to find the title of the good book, can not remember the title and google just thinks I want what is popular, If I have time I will dig into the box of books it is in and get the title.

The Complete Japanese Joinery is alright, much like a more thorough version of Wood Joints in Classical Japanese Architecture, but still looks at each joint on its own and does not really address how they all work together.

The Genius of Japanese Carpentry: Secrets of an Ancient Craft is pretty good, I remember it being the most practical and does consider the structure as a whole and not just the joints.

>>1522428
Sure, give me an email, I am in the US.

Love the old stave churches.

>>1522445
That is an email ADDRESS.

>>1522445
traphouse et mailnator dot com

>>1522445
tell me when you send it>>1522447

is that preburnt wood tile or tarred?

>>1522445
friend?

>>1522460

>>1522460
>>1522468

>>1522470
I havent got your email yet...

>>1522473

well fuck. do you actually live there

>>1522479
>well fuck. do you actually live there

where? yes, Im in croatia, yank construction is so exotic to me

>>1522481

no offense but that church is in norwegia

>>1522485
no mail yet nigga, give me yours, dont be gay

>>1522448
Pine tar.

Got distracted by digging through the 3500 emails in my junk email account, been awhile since I have gone into it.

>>1511299
Titebond is waterproof

>>1522509
>>1522485
I gave you the wrong adress here>>1522447 the doimain was mailinator not mailnator, but it self deleted
this is the right one, send me a blank here:

wwa2 et protonmail dot com

>>1522535
Done

>>1509833
Steel bracket and fuck it.

>>1522407
>there's a hole
>fill the hole and seal it with something that doesn't dissolve more shit you put over it
>oh wizard I beseech thee tell me your secrets
Are you mentally ill

>>1522702
That was uncalled for. You're an angry drunk.