/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1517555
yeah just get the hakko

The hakko is best. It is expensive for the occasional solder person, but it will last a long time.

/biz/ - DIY advice

>>1517558
LOL
I thought I was on g with my reply.

40w+. Temperature control is nice but not strictly required.

It's all about flux on PCBs..and stop a minute between each soldering point to avoid burning the board.
40W is spot on.
For audio cables you can use one of those gas refilled soldering irons, they are a bit too hot for PCBs, though...
Also link is shit and it stinks

>>1517555
Weller or Ersa used on Ebay

>>1517561
>gas refilled soldering irons

Or you could just a get more powerful electric soldering iron.

>>1517555
no idea but I like my mini gas powered one as it heats instantly and doesn't have a cable to get in the way

>>1517564
this i guess i have a gas as well sometimes it is useful for hotter jobs or when a cord / outlet gets in the way, prefer the hakko most of the time though

>>1517561
I have a pretty good technique for soldering even very small SMD components with my shitty radio shack iron and it involves using gross amounts of flux.

I just smear flux over the pads, place the chip over it, then quickly run the iron with a dab of solder on the tip over the legs. If I bridge some pins I just suck it up with copper braid. Not sure how everyone else does this.

>>1517562
For the cost of them used you can get the new Hakko.

>>1517563
I like to use the gas one when doing more spartan soldering as it is not attached to cables, being inside a speaker cab or in the car...for the rest of my electronic disasters I use an electric one.
Link still stinks though

>>1517566
That is the best way..the trick is in the flux. Also a hot air blow torch is great when extracting chips.
I'll buy a soldering station soon enough..surely not with any stinky linky gains

>>1517555

he ya bro i do my best soldering with this

got to be quick though might melt a cap if you are not

>>1517555
If this is going to be a tool your lively hood depends on, buy the Hakko, or a Weller. If this is really just for rare projects and repairs, the generic< $20 digital ones are fine. If this is going to be a hobby and you'll be using it every weekend, stool get the cheapie first, and figure out what you like and don't like. Only then, consider a used professional station, or one of the digital ones like ts100 or ts80. Honestly having no rinse flux and good solder on hand will make more of a difference starting out than the quality of the iron.

>>1517594
This is how I desolder

Anyway the Hakkos are only like $100. That’s not too much. I’m still trying to decide whether to get that or drop about the same amount of money on one of the decently rated Chinesium ones with a hot air station.

>>1517566
flux is a double edged sword, they can get under sot-23 packages, notably mosfets and cause shorting

>>1517555
I use a 40w for anything under 1.5mm/2mm wire.

I've soldered PCBs with it, components, its fine.

If I need to do chunkier stuff, I bust out the 100w but thats very rare to do.

My 40w cost me about £10 from Maplin when it was closing, last one lasted me 5+years.

>>1517555
If you have the money on hand, just buy a good Hakko (or Weller, but not an el cheapo shit one) and be done with it. It's the cost of doing business, and cheap irons are only cheap if your time is worth nothing.

>>1517555
>What is the best soldering iron?
depends...

I've used some Edsyn Loner irons and they were really excellent, my hakko digital is fine for any non-plumbing work I've run across though.

>>1517555

Ok, If you are not going to solder often, get a hakko 951 clone, I believe that's the model, should run you 25-35$
It wont be the best, but it will be a fuckload better then a non station.

if you are doing thick wires, I know speaker shit can get thick, you may want to instead get a soldering gun, again, something cheap, no need to buy premium here.

If you are going to use it regularly, you may want to look into
https://www.gearbest.com/boards-shields/pp_266261.html?wid=1433363
If you have the right power supply this thing is a fucking beast, though you may want to get a compatible high thermal mass tip just to make soldering thick shit a bit easier.

I can't give you a direct link to what I bought as the family has a shared amazon account and its the christmas season.

I would just 100% not recommend hakko, look up lewis rossman and see his recommendations, and also big clive, the one he recommended is what I ultimately got, but lewis will tell you about great alternatives to higher end stations, or even ones outright better and cheaper then high end stations.

I used to use a 30w cheap soldering iron which was crap, then was looking into soldering stations for 30$+ then I saw 1$ USB soldering iron on Aliexpress and I havent been thinking about buying another one since. Its so compact and handy. Its pretty good if Youre using it for small stuff. If Youd want to solder ellectrical copper wire though, it wont suffice. But some people say you shouldnt be soldering those anyway.

>>1519102
>1$ USB soldering iron on Aliexpress
I got ripped off by eBay.
I paid $2 for mine.
I love it for portable stuff and just a quick one or two solder joint job.

>>1519047
>the right power supply
What are you using? I know I have a 12V/3A sitting at home but this one says it comes with a 19V/2.1A.

A Hakko 888D is $96. Properly maintained, you most likely won't need to replace the iron itself for a long, long time. I do electronics as a hobby and I can justify such a purchase. Buy once, cry once.

>>1517555
If you aren't soldering as part of your job, you can easily get by with 900M knockoffs and they are a lot cheaper than the legit Hakko.
https://www.banggood.com/PX-988-90W-Backlight-LCD-Digital-Thermostat-Adjustable-Lead-free-Electric-Soldering-Iron-p-1159783.html
https://www.banggood.com/YIHUA-908D-220V-LED-Digital-Display-Soldering-Station-Soldering-Iron-Kit-p-1059873.html
For regular work I'd recommend getting one with a separate controller unit (the second link), I have a PX-988 for carrying around and use in the garage, it's fine, but the cord is less flexible and setting the temperature is a bit more pain in the ass. These and many other chink stations use 900M tips, which are very very cheap and widely available.
Difference between these and the 3-4 times more expensive Hakko is that the heat transfer between the ceramic element and the tip will be worse, but it's not a major drawback imo.

>>1519174
You used any of the sub-$100 irons with hot air? One anon owns pic related and says it’s been straight for him so far.

>>1519176
No, in retrospect I wish I would've gotten one of those stations for my desk, but I just have a similar one without air.

>>1517555
>I just need to assemble a set of crossovers
>What is the best soldering iron?
Why would you want the "best" soldering iron for one small job?

>just completely screwed up.
You can solder and do a bit of electronics but this is your way to describe a problem?

>Is it worth paying extra for the Hakko digital ones?
Looks like you got 2 confirmations in 6 minutes on a slow board. WOW! they must be really great huh?

Good products don't need to be shilled, I'll be sure to avoid Hakko™

>>1519186
What a cunt

>>1517625
this.
except for this part I disagree with
>Honestly having no rinse flux and good solder on hand will make more of a difference starting out than the quality of the iron.

>>1519881
I meant to add, a good iron makes a big difference. Get decent lead solder with flux inside too.

>>1517555
Hakko 888. Look no further. Weller also makes good shit. There are also some new open source USB C powered irons that are pretty interesting. If you can't afford any of that, or really don't care about investing in soldering because it's not one of your main DIY fields, then get an adjustable pen iron. I'm pretty sure Adafruit still carries one.

>>1519186
If Hakkos are bad because people like them, what would you consider to be a good iron?

>>1519895
>what would you consider to be a good iron?
can't say coz then it would be shilling and instantly become a shit tool...

I have a JBC iron myself, but to be honest I think you start to see diminishing returns in the $100-200 range so I can't recommend spending $800+ on an iron.

I love being able to solder within two seconds of turning on the iron though, as well as being able to swap tips in <5 seconds.

>>1519934
Flawless logic. Channellocks are dope tho. US made at a reasonable price!

>>1517555
https://youtu.be/cGdHJ3BTh_c
T-12 station is by far the best bang for your buck. I've heard the Hakko knockoffs can be a bit iffy.

>>1519934
I kinda wish I had a list of every manufacturer so I could shill for all of them and destroy all tools ever. What power that would give me. Then only alphas who make their own tools could thrive.

>>1520177
So, wat ur saying is u would revel in the fact u had a power such that using it would purposefully usher in your own demise? Wow, watta faggot.
>>1520031
DOOD! Muchisimas gracias meng. That is mod def best bang tier.

>>1517555
35 dollar ali kits use newer Hakko technology.

>>1520614
>Hakko technology

>>1520615
>u can use hakko tips with the fucking fillement inside the tip in one package meme.

>>1520630
It's pretty damn neat, but it's not like Weller don't do the same thing for those whacky (and also ~$30) 3.5mm tips that are on the TS-80.

>>1517555
>simple through hole PCB soldering

Any ultra cheap harbor fright soldering iron with a FLAT tip will work perfectly for that. You just need to clean the board with 90%+ rubbing alcohol and use the proper brush-on flux rated for PCB use. Use thin, 1mm, thick wire tin-lead based solder (60/40), not silver based solder for those el-cheap-o soldering irons. Do not use flux-core/resin-core, but if you can't find any then go for it anyway, just use your own flux too. The silver-based solder requires higher heat and better soldering iron. When you solder, make sure the room is well ventilated and you have an fan removing the air. Don't breath the smoke.

You can do perfect simple through hole PCB soldering with that setup. Watch some youtube vids on how to do soldering. The solder should go onto all parts like it is sticky water. It should not bead up. If it beads up, your cleaning and flux procedures are incorrect of the iron or the parts are too cold.

The biggest mistake people make is not cleaning or fluxing properly and using silver-based solders with cheap irons.

>>1520680
>Any ultra cheap harbor fright soldering iron
Not the model I got.

The one I bought was 5ish years ago, but I think they still sell it. It was an adjustable soldering station that looked identical to pic related. After maybe 2 months it no longer came up to temperature. It basically got barely got enough to soften the solder, but not really melt it.

>>1520708
And what about the one you got when you replaced it under warranty? How did that go?

>>1520710
I got a cheap one from Amazon with free two day, because I had a project to finish right then, and the harbor freight trip is weekend only for me, considering the drive. It was cheap enough that I just let my kids take it apart and use it (neutered the cord first) as a prop. Them playing lab seems more worth it too me than the $25 iron

>>1520680
>Do not use flux-core/resin-core,
What on earth makes you say so?

>>1517561
Shit advice, no need to stop between soldering.
If you align your components properly, you could take about 2 seconds soldering each pin, leading to a neater and faster job.

>>1517555
A regular soldering iron ranging from 40W to 60W should do the trick. Ceramic tip and remember to wet your cleaning sponge (pic related).

If possible, your soldering iron should be grounded, and it's important to pre-heat it.
Avoid anything with buzzwords or the USB stuff.

Your solder should be a 60/40 tin/lead, and if possible, it should have a flux core to make it easier and cleaner.

To solder, put the component through the hole, you can bend the lead you aren't soldering to secure the component in place.
Then, place the tip of your pre-heated iron in such a way it makes contact with both the lead and the PCB. Hold it there for one second, and without moving it too much, apply the solder, then remove tip of the iron and carry on.

You should always start soldering the smaller stuff, and with the following soldering order:
Any kind of pins and things that aren't components and jumper wires.
Resistors and similar stuff.
Capacitors.
Transistors.

Source: I'm an electronic technician.

>>1520732
Relying on fluxcore is a n00b mistake.

>>1520708
Are you that faggot that went ape shit over this shit some months ago and sperged out like a tard?

>>1517561
>It's all about flux on PCBs..and stop a minute between each soldering point to avoid burning the board

>>1517561
You're not in any danger of burning a board, you really don't need to stop between joints.

>>1520811
Pornographic.

>>1520811

the only obvious step is the soldering iron. can someone describe the others, so I can do magical soldering too?

>>1520839
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5uiroWBkdFY

>>1520843

thanks. I didn't see a description of the stuff in the tube. was it solder paste like pic related?

>>1520855
For the corner tack welds yes, but the other one is all flux. The solder laid down is on the soldering iron tip.

>>1520869
>but the other one is all flux.

Yeah, it looked almost clear. thanks for the info.

>>1520739
So this 35W Ayoue wouldn't be suitable? Want to start soldering and this seems to be ok for ~30€.
The upgrade to 60W of the same producer would be 100€. so is that a better option?

>>1517562
>Weller.

Dave frfom the eev blog discovered that weller does not put a fuse on the mains of the switch.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUtj-bWHeKY

Also, no thermal fuse in the transformer.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qo6B1aYUffE

worried.

>>1520811

>>1520808
It's often good enough for simple work, I wouldn't tell people not to get any, just to get both types.

Also that one guy a while back was pretty funny.

>>1520973
It's only on some of their models and it's an easy post-fix (assuming you have another iron to do so). To be honest, since the transformer primary is the only component on the high-side of the circuit, and requires a significant duration of overvoltage to overheat, you're not going to have any problems by not having a primary side fuse in the event of a power surge, lightening strike, etc. But a thermal fuse would be a good idea. Even better, a MOV and a PTC.

>>1520729
So in other words, you dont know if the one you got was the 1 in 5000 dud, or it's a bad product, which means you can't comment on its quality?

>>1521071
>I had a bad experience with a Harbor Freight tool once so Harbor Freight tools are shit...

>>1520951
There are better chink knockoffs of more modern hakko crap.

>>1521095
*Hazard Fraught Tools

fixed

>>1521126
Where do i look for them?

>>1520951
It's alright but a bit overcomplicated, you won't be needing to regulate heat much if you are just starting, and when you do, you will need to drop at least a hundred. I would get a regular soldering iron if you are a begginer.

35W is good btw, most important thing is heat really, as long as it can actually melt solder it's alright (so about 300ºC). For the simple irons this means you have to guide yourself via wattage, but in the regulated ones, power mostly means how fast it heats up.

>>1520951
i have the 937+ and its been pretty good. soldered a bunch of through hole and some smd.

>>1517555
the hot dog

>>1521514
>the hot dog
He's doing it wrong.
In plumbing, you heat the fitting - not the pipe.
>heat the part you want solder to flow to

>>1521192
I have seen this a million times but never realized how true this is.

>>1517567
Since when? Not the fag you replied to, but my weller, new, was half cost of a hakko...

>>1517558
... plebit. You have to go back shitcoiner

>>1517563
I much perfer the cheap 110v automotive soldering guns for most wiring shit.

Until the crimpless solder heat shrink tubing came out anyway. That shit is the TITS!

>>1517594
Soldering with fucking map gas. Suo plymberanon

>>1520811
Gasp.


Wtf was that paper or whatever he lifted at the end?

>>1520973

This guy is meme come to life

>>1523193
Its a Kimwipe. Its like a blowing your nose tissue but single ply and doesn't tear up and leave shit behind. They're also terrible to blow your nose with, they'll scrape up the inner edge of your nostril.

>>1523183
>Since when? Not the fag you replied to, but my weller, new, was half cost of a hakko...

You are referring to a model that is not in any way comparable to a hakko. Weller has the WESD51 which is close to the FX triple eight.

>>1523247
Oooh, these look awesome, gonna get me some

>>1524509

oooh

ts100 soldering iron

>>1524749
>ts100
objectively worse than a t12 station

>>1517555
The one you have with you.