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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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1506259 No.1506259 [Reply] [Original]

I've just bought a nice land with my friend and we are about to build a log cabin there.
We plan to start next summer, but since it's hard to imagine we would finish before winter, I had the idea that first we should build something like a shed, using planks or lath, then covering with 100mm styrofoam on the inside and one layer plasterboard and putting in a stove, because this could be done in 2 weeks maximum.
Winters are not really cold here -10 celsius is the coldest but even that's rare.

>> No.1506260

It really depends on how much you are going to use that stove, and then if using it, how much wood/fuel you would be willing to put into it. Otherwise, -10 is not really a death sentence if sheltered, but you should not take it so lightly.

>> No.1506303

>>1506259
Just buy an old mobile home/trailer.

>> No.1506324

>>1506259
Insulate it properly. Nice thick insulation all across the walls, floor, and roof.

>> No.1506337

>>1506324
This. I wouldn't even worry about the plasterboard. If you get a lot of insulation in there it'll hold the heat well which will save you fuel.

>> No.1506358

Insulation, along with thermal blankets will allow quite a bit of heat retention.

>> No.1506363

>>1506259
Sleep together with nude bodies pressed tightly against one another to conserve body heat and you ought to do alright.

>> No.1506364

>>1506363
yes. That's what we will do.

>> No.1506402

>>1506259
Come on bro you know better... You are 10 times better off buying a used camper from Craigslist. You'll have a kitchen, stove, sink, toilet, shower, storage space for clothes, a pantry, eating table, actual bed, couch, electrical outlets that are readily powered via solar or a generator, it's movable, etc. Plus no one said you have to keep the thing. If your case you can easily resell it in the spring because people go camping in the spring time. Living in a shed is a meme. A simple used camper is more practical for your situation and you know it. Open Craigslist and start looking.

>> No.1506404

>>1506259
wouldn't digging a bunker be more warmth

>> No.1506422

Sure you can survive, but it's going to be miserable to live like that for months unless you are of the rare breed that like that sort of thing.

Don't get me wrong, I have multiple weekends a year in no electricity cabins and enjoy it, but months like that sounds horrible

>> No.1506436

>>1506402
can you fit a wood burner in a camper

>> No.1506466

Always have the insulation on the outside of your construction. When insulate on the inside the condensation point is between the insulation and outer material.

Properly done: drywall, plastic wrap, insulation, outer layer. Remember that even a pinhole in the wrap will lead to bad results over time. Use mechanical ventilation with heat recycling, if not possible a wood stove and an air intake valve.

>> No.1506470

>>1506466

A basic construction going from the inside to the outside: drywall, 5cm of freely set mineral insulation, plastic wrap, 20cm of mineral wool, outwall plate which is taped with elastic tape to be 100% airtight, the the outer construction to proctect the outwall plate.

Its fool proof if you do it right. Cheap too, none of the materials cost much.

>> No.1506474

>>1506470

When you get advanced you can start with playing around with massive wood solid constructions and stuff like insulated elements.

Best for you cuckshed would actually be an insulated leca block. If you just want to stack legos and be merrily gay, but its cheaper with drywall, wood and mineral wool.

>> No.1506525

>>1506436
You can build a little shed for the wood burner and pipe the warm air in through the window.

>> No.1506557

>>1506404
>a bunker
We get it, Hitler, you didnt die in berlin.

>> No.1506561
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1506561

>>1506470
>>1506466
So, let me get this right.
From the outside in:
Siding, XPS insulation, paper, sheathing, framing, more XPS, Drywall?
Did I get that right?

Also, why do the tiny home people on yootoob never have actual sheathing? Its alway siding, framing then everything else.

>> No.1506567

>>1506259
What's this "we" shit anon? You got a mouse in your pocket?

1 faggot per cuckshed. Thems the rules

>> No.1506570

>>1506259
Probably but showering and shitting is gonna suck unless you have a climate controlled area to do it.

>> No.1506571

>>1506436
Propane heater is probably cheaper and safer to run.

>> No.1506576

>>1506567
This too. If you two arent.... Intimate; id build two separate sheds or a condo shed thing with a wall separating them youll hate each other and people in rural areas hate gays or anything that could ve construed as gay like two bachelors cohabitating in a 250 sq ft shed.

>> No.1506587

Start your cabin in the winter. Its a hell of a lot easier to cut/move logs when everything is dead for the year. Put them in place and finish in the summer.

Also yes you can live in a shed, especially if you have a stove. Humans are surprisingly good in the cold it's the wind that fucks you up. Seal it good (but not so good as to die from your stove) and bring lots of blankets, you will be fine. I lived in an uninsulated pole barn for two years while I built my house, wasn't great but wasn't terrible either.

>> No.1506653

>>1506259
If your socks get wet and you dont take them off you will lose ur feet.

>> No.1506660

>>1506259
How good are you at building? If you are good, finish the cabin, or at least, a livable section. If you're not good, then building this other structure will take so much of your time, that you'll never be finished with what you need.

>> No.1506701

>>1506259
You could build a wooden fence around the shed and dump 5 feet of dry leaves around it. Build the fence to the door.

Thats how old timey trappers usedvto keep warm in the winter. Granted they built temporary cabins partially submerged in the ground first, then piled leaves.

If you do this don't toss cigarettes or anything burning in the leaves, unless you want to burn down your shed.

>> No.1506889

>>1506436
Yes you can, watch this video at the 8 minute mark

https://youtu.be/Za86w9PSP-s

>> No.1506897

>>1506701
>build a cabin to keep warm
>dump moisture wicks around it
>can't build a fire

sounds real smart

>> No.1506909

>>1506337
Keep in mind plasterboard is a fire barrier, will give you a few extra minutes if anything goes wrong with the fire electric etc.

>> No.1506912
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1506912

>>1506402
A fucking meme? Well you can just frig right off buddy

>> No.1507202
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1507202

>>1506259
There is a good chance it will take longer.
Use plywood, faster, cheaper.

a faster way is to buy a wall tent, then sell it after the cabin is built.

>> No.1507779

>>1506259
>I've just bought a nice land with my friend

You better be fucking this friend and getting ready to settle down and get married.
If not it will end badly, it ALWAYS ends badly.

>> No.1507819

Skip the shed, build the garage first. Live in the garage until you have other parts finished. My grandfather was a custom home builder and on several occasions did this.

>> No.1507838

>>1506259
Possible? 100%

The question is comfortable and will you feel like quitting the whole endeavor because it's so miserable.

Boatloads of insulation, and make sure you have adequate ventilation and a carbon monoxide sensor if you're heating with a stove.

I would unironically get one of the harbor freight/princess auto solar kits and batteries for it. Run lights and laptop during the day, run an electric blanket off of the charged batteries at night.

Anyway, like the other anons said, camper will probably be better.

>> No.1508468
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1508468

>>1506570
>shitting is gonna suck
Tiny House Syndrome...

You just don't have enough space to get away from hot Mexican farts.

One of you will get stabbed in his sleep by the 6th week.

>> No.1508472

>>1506259

>buy prebuilt shed
>insulate and weatherproof it
>add patio, central stove, 12V appliances, furniture, solar panels

sounds like a pricey thing

>> No.1508473

>>1508468

>tinyhouse --> get stabbed
>anonymous shed deliberately dirty outside but with strong stabber-proof doors and windows ---> happily sleep way more than 6 weeks

>> No.1508509

>>1508473
Learn to read or use Google translate!
One housemate stabbing the other!
People only like the smell of their own farts.

>> No.1508523

>>1507819
THIS, because you need a shop to build a home or anything else efficiently. Tiny is bad. Tiny isn't all that cheap either. It's a dumbfuck meme except when used to beat zoning and building codes.

A shipping container makes a great shop. In that situation I'd do what I did and have a power pole placed with a service panel and outdoor 120/240V outlets so I had power from the start. Fab a man door and mount that in the end opposite the container end doors so you don't have to open those in inclement weather.

While living in a container may trigger the sensitive they do make nice tough fire-resistant structures you can certainly camp out in. I'd live in mine if I had do. You can instantly hang hammocks from the tiedown loops welded to the roof then build the interior at leisure. (I sleep in a hammock and it's comfy as fuck.)

My bro insulated his shop container on the inside and installed a split AC unit which is super easy when working with steel. No humidity issues even in the South.

>> No.1510059

If you're going to do this, then I'd recommend not using styrofoam. If you are going to have studs inside, I'd buy a DIY spray foam kit. They're about $300 and cover 210 board feet or so. The reason being airtightness. Fiberglass rolls, styrofoam even if taped will be drafty. 2x6 construction with 5 inches of foam will get you an R30 and airtight. You'll be fine with that.

>> No.1510080

>>1506259
Okay, if you want a fast, cheap and moderately liveable solution, I recommend a pallet shed. I built one of these with my uncle so he could have a place for his log splitter and wood for the winter (he heats with wood). So you go to any place that gets pallets and say "Hey, when you guys get pallets in save them and I will take them" or something like that. Each pallet is about 3-4' square (we got a variety of sizes and just made it work). First you need a fairly flat and level piece of land (use gravel to level for drainage, a nice gravel bed is a good foundation if you feel like doing this under the whole thing). Next, we put down 2x10 pressure treated lumber in the shape of the footprint we were making (lay out your pallets to make sure it can be made without shortening pallets). Next, start your bottom row of pallets, we used little angle brackets to fasten the pallets to the 2x10's and aligned the pallets so the cross boards making the top and bottom of the pallet were horizontally oriented so we could get a screw gun in there to fasten the pallets together. After you get the first layer of pallets together, run a 2x6 (or 2x10 if you want 4" insulation, I would use whatever is cheaper) around the tops of all the pallets (screw down into the board into the top of the pallet), overhanging it on the inside the space between the edge of the board and the face of the pallet is where your insulation goes (on the inside). Next, start your second row of pallets this will give you a (roughly) 8 foot ceiling height. Use the same method of attachment used for the ones on the bottom. Then repeat and run another board of the same dimension as the middle board along the top of the whole structure, and go over top of all openings (making sure they measure the same size at both top and bottom before fastening). Now you need to measure your building (you should make it less than 16' wide because of this step) at the bottom and cut a board to that length.

>> No.1510091

>>1510080
You will install one of these boards every 8 feet on the top of your structure to hold it square for when you build your trusses. Next come your trusses. You will need to know how to use the Pythagorean theorem for this. If your building is 16" wide and you want a 1' eave (overhang) and a 6' in 8' pitch to each side (the steeper your roof, the bigger the loft you can make, giving you more living space, I would make it 6' high at the uppermost point so you could have your sleeping area up here and your living area below) you will need each leg of the rafter to be 10'10" (roughly) and you will need to make a notch so it makes good contact with the top 2x6. I would space the trusses every 3 feet (in real construction you would do them every 22.5" on center). You will also need to use a board at three feet from the top of the rafter going across making an A shape for all rafters not in the "loft" section of your shed (the loft should be less than half of the shed length) for the loft you will run a board along the top of the wall from side to side nailed into the rafter (another 1' from the peak of the roof is also HIGHLY recommended) this will also serve as the floor of your loft and there should be a wall built down the middle to support your loft floor. Also, if you are using anything less than a 2x6 for these loft floor boards (on edge) you will want to put one between each rafter as well for adequate support (that is, 18" on center). You will need to support the trusses from each end while installing them so they don't fall over. I got away with using 2x4's (for the rafters) when I did this in the past. As you install the trusses you will need to fasten them to each other. I used 1x4 material for this. this is what will give them lateral strength. I would used 1x4 spaced 2' on center. After all trusses are installed and lateral bracing in place, you clad the structure.

>> No.1510099

>>1510091
If you want a cheap vapor barrier, I would use visquene and just staple it to the outside of the pallets and rafters. The problem with this is it does not breathe so you may just wish to forego this step. Finally you will clad your structure. I would use exterior grade plywood, any thickness will do (at the minimum paint it, vinyl or metal siding are better though for repelling water, metal is also a good option for covering the roof, the plywood will help insulate the roof which is a big plus). For the floor, I would use more pallets to keep it off the ground. After you get the pallets fairly level, use at least 5/8ths plywood on top of them and nail it down so it holds your floor at least somewhat flat. For the loft, I would use 3/4" plywood (this can be interior grade for less splinters since it is off the ground) as it will help strengthen your "second floor." Be sure to make your front door large (if you can find french doors for this all the better, after you build your cabin this might become a storage unit and big doors mean you can store big stuff). Anyway, this is pretty easy to do and we built a 16x20 shed in less than two weeks with two people. Probably for less than a shed that can comfortably house two would cost.

>> No.1510114
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1510114

>>1506259
>styrofoam
What?
Pls explain

>> No.1510115

>>1510114
Nevermind i just figured it out

>> No.1511060

>>1506259
>Can we survive a winter in a shed?
Yes

>Lived in my mothers old house during winter
>Cold as fuck
>Space heat in bedroom did little to keep it warm
>Temp outside is no different from temp inside
>TV and monitor wont work unless room was at a certain temp
>Mom left her dogs in the house
>Their water dish froze
>Toilet water would freeze
>Used 5 blankets and 1 heating blanket to sleep at night
>Would wear 2 hoodies, long sleeve shirt, boxers, two sweatpants, and two pairs of socks
>Happy that I moved out of that hell hole years ago
>Youngest child in the family and no one would help me out

>> No.1511072

>>1511060
>demands unfrozen toilet water
entitled faggit - where was this, exactly - you make it sound like Siberia, you exaggerational cunt. Bit less comfort made you the anon you are today
>t. Bong who cant be arsed repairing boiler

>> No.1511347

>>1506525
Oy Vey!

>> No.1511437

>>1507838
Would this really be very effective? put those dollars into insulation instead.