/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1501534

So I'm 85% sure im getting a cr-10 as my first.
I've been watching tons of info. Any advice for this noob? Necessary upgrades?

Anon with an underextruding Ender3 here, turns out the fuckers did not push the bowden tube all the way to the nozzle, the coupler being shit made it look like it was pushed to the end but it was not. Disassembled and unclogged everything and it's fixed for now, but replacements are on the way.

>>1502001
ender 3

>>1502005
Yeah honestly any china printer should have its hotend disassembled and reassembled before use

>>1502007
Na I'll pay a little extra for print bed space.

>>1502010
Yeah but all the ender3 build vids I checked did not bother disassembling the hotend so I figured it was not strictly necessary. Lesson learned.

Riddle me this, what game is this from?

First for Pew Pew

>>1501692
The only thing you get out of the expensive premade printers is better polish and tech support. With a cheap chink printer like the CR-10 though, it's so popular that there are more than enough tech support and upgrades that, with a bit of effort, you can get it printing just as good as a $2k printer. The only real downside is that you have to build your own enclosure.

>>1502001
If you can afford it, get the CR-10S. It has a better board which you'll want since by default the thermal runaway protection is disabled and you want to enable it for safety and peace of mind.
The very first thing you should do (assuming it comes with a glass build plate) is buy a mirror from Ikea or Lowes. Lightly cover it with pritt stick/elmers purple glue.
An enclosure should be something you work towards getting, but for now you can just buy a pop up greenhouse. Apart from keeping the heat in, the main point is to prevent draughts on the print surface.
Get the stepper dampers, just to quiet the thing down.
Print squash ball feet to stop vibrations resonating through whatever it's sat on.
Look into replacing the fans to make it quieter. Get a 5015 blower fan and print the petsfang part cooling duct (parts cooling really helps when printing bridges and overhangs. When you install the blower, take the sticker off the back and drop some sewing machine oil or 3-in-1 in there (do this once a month).

>>1502037
I think you'll come to find that servicing your hot end and ptfe tube interface is somewhat regular maintenance. at least on the Ender its super easy to get under the fans and into the hot end.
I probably refit a new ptfe tube every 2-3 months. I also change nozzles often and try lots of different filaments that jam up, I'm sure that contributes to ptfe damage and wear.

I just changed nozzle size to 1mm and I have a few questions on how to adjust my machine for this.

1. priming the extruder at the start of a print isn't extruding enough plastic for my huge nozzle. the gcode for the prime looks like this:
G1 X60.0 E9.0 F1000.0 ; priming
G1 X100.0 E12.5 F1000.0 ; priming

I'm hoping changing those E values will increase the flow rate for the prime, maybe 12 for the first line and 18 for the second.

Is there anyway to change the settings for g-code pre-programmed into the printer? Prusa has a permenant calibration gcode file for calibrating your zheight, but its tuned for a .4mm nozzle extrusion rate. Anyway I can adjust this so Its more usable with a 1mm? Or somehow add a second calibration gcode file into the firmware?

>>1501941
No, it's not a unicorn horn, or a strange fungus, or an exotic fruit.

>>1502254
It does extend to get the job done though!

>>1502258
Mission accomplished! Christmas lights up in record time around the tree with no need to get on a ladder.

>>1502260
And how do you get them down?

>>1502261
The hook lets me lift them to take them down. I had to take down one section and it doesn't take much time at all. Probably going to put up another spool tomorrow when the stores open up and I can buy another.

The process was so quick that I went back and moved a few of the sections to where I thought they would look better. Removing it is going to be a pretty fast process. Not as fast as putting them up, but still fast.

My Ender 3 Pro's bed wobbles to fuck and back even though I did my best to tighten the eccentric nuts on the underside. What can be done if the eccentric's range of motion is not enough?

I thought the entire point of paying extra for the Pro was that the chinks would put a bit of extra care into not shipping you a fucked up piece of trash, seeing as nothing else is particularly different between the two

>>1502272
I'm pretty sure the whole point of the pro was so creality wouldn't have such a low profit margin. $180 was a foot in the door, its not sustainable.

My ender3 pro has two eccentric nuts down there, both on the same side. If I go through one full turn with one of the eccentric nuts it gets wayy to tight, the only way It wouldn't is if your extrusion isn't the right dimension, your roller carriage isn't the right dimension, or your fixed wheels are loose. parts being the wrong dimension is pretty rare, so make sure your fixed nuts are tight enough, if you turn them with an allen key only they won't tighten, you need a wrench on the other side to keep the nut still while you tighten.

Aside from the fixed nuts, eccentric nuts, and rollers, nothing should be able to cause a wobbly bed except bad alum extrusions and that seems really unlikely. If the rollers were really worn down maybe but that doesn't sound like your problem

>>1502258
Legit thought that was a dildo on a bicycle seat post, from the thumbnail. Thanks, /n/.

>>1502280
The front eccentric nut being fully tightened keeps it relatively snug (but not tight), the back one even at its closest still leaves a lot of play, as a result the whole bed wobbles. Gonna see if I can tweak it using your advice.

>tightening the fixed nuts
Holy shit anon you're a lifesaver. Why did not of the guides, pajeet youtube videos, and tutorials mention that? They're all like "muh eccentric nuts, muh adjustment". Tightened everything more than my asshole, went back to adjust the eccentric ones and managed to end up with a rock-solid bed that I can actually properly fucking level for once. Thank you.

>>1502292
No worries. Enjoy your machine.

I kind of like the cmag bed. Its a bummer about ABS temps probably ruining it but I haven't tried yet. Its not as functional as a spring steel bed with magnets, as a stuck on part will still be hard to peel up with a flexible magnet. It kind of feels like corners of parts will tear into the mag if I try to peel objects up using the fex mag. I still use a scraper. The bed is really handy when I want to clean it. I can take the bed off to wipe it or scrape thin lines off of without torquing the machine around.I like the bed mostly because of the matte surface finish it leaves on parts, and it sticks to PLA like a fucking KING. I haven't had to use any glue at all and all my parts have stuck great.
The upgraded PSU is a big plus imho, your mileage may vary on that. Its not standard on the E3pro, cost extra when I bought mine.

Uh, cheapways anon here.
What do I have to launch?

>>1502312
No, actually, what do I have to do?

>>1502309
I'm using the glass bed right now because the mag one isn't flat. Maybe there's a way to stick the mag's base onto glass and thus have a non-warped magnetic bed, but I haven't bothered yet. The creality glass bed has a nice surface finish that also sticks to PLA pretty well, I find, so I don't particularly feel the need to use the cmag one.
>upgraded PSU
I heard about this but I have no idea how to check desu, didn't really look into the difference. It looks chinky but then again isn't everything chinky.

>>1502312
what the fuck is this and what are you trying to do? Looks like a choice between a bunch of (crappy) text editors and semi-IDEs

>>1502319
It's Anaconda.
I was supposed to be using it to rip pic from all the angles of a shapeways 3D preview but I have no clue what to do.
I opened the prompt now and I'm even more confused.

>tfw adhesion is aaaalmost good enough... but fucks up on sharp corners
Dammit, now I gotta go find a glue stick somewhere

Anyway, are any of the alternative hotend assemblies for the ender 3 worth printing out? The default cooling seems to be generally agreed on to be suboptimal but nobody seems to have a good answer as to what it should be replaced with. Ideally I'd also get a 5020 fan but primarily I'm looking for good airflow redirection for the blower.

behold, yonder printe of smol yiffe

>>1502084
Thanks my dude!

This is Julius Caesar, printed in Ziro Marble PLA
From what I can tell it has black speckles in it that aren't PLA. they don't melt at pla temps. they clogged my .4 nozzles many many times before I gave up. I was convinced it was garbage filament for many months.
but this 1mm nozzle changes everything. It feels SO sturdy with this thick extrusion and took only 8 hours! its 8 inches tall with like 20% infill! I learned that 10% infill with a .4mm and 10% infill with a 1mm look vastly different.
Printed on a Prusa at 215/55 with .3 layer height.

Oddly enough I'm finding that this huge 1mm nozzle can't really achieve really tall layer heights. for maximum speed and maximum "layer look" aesthetic. maybe its just my cooling rig

Anyone see a change in print quality after installing a TL-Smoother to their CR-10.

Just ordered a Geeetech a10. What free cad software would be best to get started with?
Also anything I should know/do before I start using it?

>>1502440
Isn't there a ceramic filament that comes off clear/smooth?

>>1502446
Pirate Simplify3D, is on PB all day long.

>>1502446
For CAD lots of people are using Fusion 360, its free for hobbiests. Openscad is another popular option, especially for parametric models with Thingiverses customizer.

I started using Fusion 360 a few weeks ago and its still hella overwhelming. I found that forcing myself to watch a tutorial video or two was a good start. gave me enough knowledge to produce most of the objects I'd been using tinkercad for, and it makes everything so much more precise.

Tinkercad is a good piece of webapp software for manipulating pre-existing meshes. People use Meshmixer and Blender for this too but I find tinkercad to be very userfriendly. its like ms paint but in 3d

ironically I've never used MS paint 3d even though I've had it this whole time and It exists for this purpose.

Simplify3d is a good slicer, but not sure its worth the money. even for the price of free, not sure its better than slic3r PE. cura also has tons of options but imho too many options.
I use Simplify3d for most things, and use slic3r PE when S3d fails (which is somewhat often desu)

I suppose coke bottles have the same threads worldwide
Anyone happen to know what the specs for the threads are?

Anyone have a link to an enclosure build that they like?

>>1502605
Just screw some 2x2 wood together and staple any reasonably thick blanket to it with a plastic layer on the inside to prevent dust

>>1502440
Yeah i found that out with my 1mm nozzle as well, can't really handle over 0.4mm at all.
But i still like it a lot and while i can't know for sure i think it makes for stronger prints.

>>1502471
>>1502476
Cheers. I went with Fusion 360. Watched a couple of tutorials and started making a custom 2004 enclosure.

>>1501943
So what's the take home message senpai?

>>1502670
uhh praise jesus christ i guess

>>1501943
with that test the orientation of the infill is gonna make a HUGE difference, did you account for that in any way?

>>1502312
Have the code i sent you saved in a text file with an extension ".py"
Try running it from a command line like:
python yourfile.py

You might need to put it next to python.exe in the anaconda installation directory. Then in command line cd into that directory and try again the above command.

>>1501943
>>1502673
How the fuck does this have like 3mm of displacement at 0 load? Is it really that springy (while still somehow being the strongest by a wide margin when compressed) or is there a measurement error?

>>1502716
yeah i guess it all just lines up so that there's extremely little resistance in this particular orientation for the first 3mm

>>1502440
>for maximum speed and maximum "layer look" aesthetic. maybe its just my cooling rig
You really need a Volcano hotend (or something similar if you want to push the extrusion volume to the max. Cooling usually isn't the main issue if your prints are large enough.

t. 500mm radius deltafag

>>1502670
>So what's the take home message senpai?
Grid is gud.

>>1502674
It's just a 100*100*30mm cube laid flat, which means the infill is always perpendicular to the buildplate and thus aligned with the test punch.

>>1502716
Chalk it up to distance measurement error. Not all panels were exactly at absolute zero for the machine, which we only set once so we could quickly pull the punch up, put a new panel in,home, and test again. 45 mm per panel, 15 panels, at only 12mm/min takes too damn long.

>>1502834
>It's just a 100*100*30mm cube laid flat, which means the infill is always perpendicular to the buildplate and thus aligned with the test punch.
oh i thought that it was on its side like in one of your pictures my b

any good black friday deals out there? Looking for a 300x300+ sized Printer. or should i just go for some chinkshit?

>>1502899
CR-10S or wait for the Pro if you'd like an extruder upgrade and mesh leveling.

>>1502899

AFAIK all the printers at that build volume are chinkshit. As in, not that they're bad or good, just that they're all chinese.

There's a black friday deal on e3d's website where everything's 15% off, and i've been thinking about getting a Duet Wifi. Thoughts?

>>1502716
That usually happens when the specimen is shorter than the platens. When the measurement starts the crosshead have to travel some until it touches the specimen. This is what i experienced, idk about the other guys setup.

whats a reliable filament brand guys?

>>1502992
The one with the best reviews on amazon

What the hell why didn't I know Autodesk makes software for 3d printing?

https://www.autodesk.com/products/netfabb/overview

>>1502992
I've had good luck with hatchbox

Ok guys I need some fucking help, I am fucking livid. I decided to try hairspray to hold my prints down, and I watched videos, I did two layers and let it dry and jesus fucking christ my prints arent sticking, people are making claims to not try to take prints off while bed is hot cause chunks of glass will break off, LOL the fucking air from the cooling fan knocks them off.

What the fuck am I doing wrong, what needs to be done cause these youtubers aren't explaining it correctly.

>>1503065

Maybe you got some different type of hairspray, from what i can tell the stuff is practically liquid gluestick. Have you tried gluestick btw?

>>1503067
Yes thats what I use using before it worked pretty good, I bought the hairspray everyone has been talking about online
>aquanet extra hold or whatever

I sprayed a layer, and good layer, used heated bed to speed process of drying it. Sprayed a second layer and let it dry then started the print. Nothing. Its pisisng me off I do not want to leave the house again to go get a fucking gluestick. Fucking guy at microcenter was praising it like it was only method to do.

I forgot to mention I am using a ender 3 printer.

>>1501941
Anyone know of a tutorial to make doll style joints for 3D printed figures?

>try printing on the creality high tech glass bed thingy
>prints are supposed to stick while it's hot and pop off once it's cold
>it almost works but not quite
There's some adhesion, but not enough and either my first or second layer are invariably fucking up.

Now my question is, does it make sense to smear glue stick over the meme surface coating? Or should I instead flip it over to have a plain simple glass surface and put my glue there?

>>1503073
Just copy any other 3D printable joint design?

>>1503022
Have you seen the price? $225 per year for Standard, $4100 for Premium.
But if you try it, let us know about it.

>>1503022
>>1503086
That reminds me I have student access for a couple more years because I wanted to find the dimensions of an stl some months ago (when I didn't have a printer), I should try actually using it for slicing
I'm a procrastinating fuck so don't like expect anything right now but if you want I'll write about my experience here once I do give it a try, keeping in mind only other thing I've used so far is Cura

>>1503082


Link to the glass bed youre talking about?

I had a magical idea: to mix thermochromic paint into PLA
Pic related.

I have 20g of ink, im thinking i can get about 0.2 kg of color changing filament from it (worst case). I still have to figure out the proper ratios, the ink is expensive af. Also have to source PLA pellets from somewhere.

>>1503111
https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-3D-Tempered-235x235x3mm/dp/B07F16WPR5
And checked

>>1502005
Motherfucker... I just got an Ender 3 and the toothed-gear that's on the extruder was upside-down the chink bastards.

Just had to tighten a grub screw and flip it over. She's rolling smooth now, boys.

>>1503070
I'm using some of the wife's Suave.
I'm somewhere in between believing it's 100% a placebo or doing the trick entirely.

Really my shit didn't start sticking to glass until I got my bed to around 70... whether that's the hairspray helping or not, I have no idea.

>>1503086
I haven't had any reason to use anything but Cura, yet.

>>1503141
>https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-3D-Tempered-235x235x3mm/dp/B07F16WPR5

Hmm, I am just using plain glass for my ender 3. Sorry anon idk what to tell you, I would look on youtube, i think I saw that in a round up with other beds when I was making a decision on mine.

>>1503082
I read the specs on the page, and it says there's a range of 50-70 c for pla for adhesion. Have you tried bumping up the bed plate temperature to max range, that is to say 70?

>>1502476
I see in the 3d print option for Fusion, it has the option to send it to a print utility, Print Studio or Meshmixer. Are theses slicers? Has anyone here
used them?

I really fucking hate the plastic-wheel-in-v-slot-extrusion system. It basically rules out all the cheap popular printers, ender3, cr10.

What other cheapshit has decent qc now? are i3 clones still the best I can do? jgaurora? Are there any good corexy clones yet?

>>1503180
I just export to STL, I think it tries to send it to an online printing service but I'm not sure.

>>1502992
If you're still on the thread, the best filament I've ever used is a blend from sunlu called PLA+. I've ordered 6 rolls so far. No jams, no tangles, always perfectly consistent color. It's always around 15 bucks a roll, too. Another brand I really like is solutech, but they're a bit pricier.

>>1503146
Ok after calming my autism down, I think I got it working.

I did first layer, and let it dry using the heat bed, and then I applied the second layer right before I print. I only did a light coat on both layers, and it is holding, I only had two prints come loose, one was my fault cause my hand cause it to come off, and the other just separated from the bed, and I believe its because it got printed in a area right out side of the hairspray I put on the bed.

>>1503022
oh snap autodesk bought out netfabb, looks like a long time ago too but anyways, ive never used it for slicing, and i dont know what the autodesk version is, but the version i have is great for repairing/cleaning stl files and orienting prints, i use it before i run them in slic3r

>>1503231
Curious why? Exporting to a different program for slicing instead of just doing it all in the same place is more hassle so what's the reason you started doing this in the first place

>>1503183
Wtf anon, v-slot with rollers is the best

>>1503326
explain pls

noob here
A while back I used Autodesk Inventor to sketch a part for an AR-15 that was intended to be made with metal. Is it worthwhile to use that program for 3D printing or is that overkill?
Downside is I have to use at work and I'm a macfag.

>>1503247
slic3r (at the time it was 1.0.9) had toolpathing and parameters i liked but couldnt reorient 3d models in a 3d way, it couldnt split models on the z axis, and a lot of the time STL models would need repairing to fix broken vertices, and it was good at importing other models and converting them to STL or converting STL to a more editable file format. at the time netfabb wasnt autodesk so you could download and use their program for free with out slicing option(there was a crack to get full version i should look into now) so i just added it into my workflow to do all the things slic3r couldnt do in 2013. its a very handy tool and i havent really changed my ways since then

>>1503485
There is no such thing such as overkill, only the efficiency and time it you're willing to spend on something with the tools you have.

>>1503486
Interesting, makes sense

>>1503073
Tinkercad has some ball joint templates that work well

>>1503205
thx

So for more durable structural parts, should I go for larger nozzle and higher layer height?

It does not appear that I screwed anything up

Leveling was a pain, had to go over it like 3 times.

Is it easy to make supplementary beer money by modelling and/or printing small miniatures and objects? I kinda want to get a Photon, but can't really justify it unless I can make some of the money back. I'm comfortable making my own models in Blender, as well as converting, posing and whatnot.

>>1503205
>15 bucks a roll

you using ebay

>>1503559
Autoleveler was the best $ I spent on the whole shit

>>1503572
I'm using Hatchbox at $16 a roll and it's just as good as the fancy chrome-colored shit I got for $25.

>>1503561
I got tired of every fucking time I wanted to do a project from something online, I either had to go to some overpriced local 3D printing shop or I had to trust that Shapeways wouldn't fuck it up.
So you know what? Screw that shit. If I need something and I have to 3D print it, I can now just 3D print it. No more scouring the universe for that one thing that doesn't exist that would solve a problem I'm currently enduring and no more trusting incompetent shitheads to carelessly do it for me.
That's my justification.

Hey guys I was curious about something. I downloaded a .stl file of a raspberry pi 3 b+ top cover, and I rotated it 90 degrees to lay more flat, and the original position is when its standing up.

I had a problem with a print where it prints that border before the 3d model, but mine kept printing the small rectangle border as if I was printing it straight up, and the 3d model was partially printed on top of it.

After couple tries I just paused the print, turned it off and move the bed away from that border, so it can print completely flat.

I was using cura when I rotated the 3d model. Is there a setting I need to apply?

>printer, creality ender 3
>printing program, octoprint/octopi.

>>1503334
he's trolling. it's garbage.

Credit where it's due, it allowed big printers to sell at the same price as medium size printers. But that $100 saved is paid in lower precision and rapid wear

>>1503748
if I understand you correctly, then no there is no other setting. Probably just failed to overwrite what it was before. Just try again.

You should ALWAYS go into layer view (after slicing and before printing) and look at what the paths look like. Especially for the first layer and the supports. It's really easy to spot when it's trying to do something dumb. Then you coerce it into not doing that, and slice again.

>>1503749
Proofs?
From my experience the extrusions are pretty straight,
And what do you mean by wear? I suppose chink bearings might give out but i kinda doubt that since it's not a very high load application.

>>1503117
they sell actual thermochromic PLA filament so you don't have to fuck about extruding your own and mixing paint into it, unless that's your thing, in which case, go for it.

>>1503929
Its so demoralizing learning that the thing you came up with already exists
Thanks anyway.

>>1503754
Ok thanks anon, I will give that a try next time.

>>1503749
>paid in lower precision

I can get <50μm accuracy X/Y. What the heck do you need more than that for on FDM?

>>1503988
classic resolution accuracy mixup.

>>1504068
I mean, any external dimension will be printed with less than 50μm of deviation. This is on a pretty well used CR-10S.

Does anyone have experience with tungsten carbide (not straight tungsten) nozzles? I print a lot of carbon fibre PETG and it's chewing through nickle coated brass like crazy.

Fusion 360

Did it change? I hadn't made anything in awhile but I thought non-business use was supported. All of a sudden it wants a subscription.

>>1504145
Still works for me, it says its a start up licence as its loading.

>>1504153
I had to switch it to offline mode and it was fine. But otherwise it wouldn't let me save.

And that is a dick move when you just finished a design before it said anything at all.

>>1502312
>>1502713
How is it coming along?

Is a single 8mm leadscrew good enough to drive an 8x8" Z-axis bed for a corexy?

>>1504145
That's one of the subscription licenses. Hobby/non-profit. They're good for a year at a time, if you try to renew you should see some questions t hen get an option for the hobbyist, non-profit, start-up license

>>1504071
>I print a lot of carbon fibre PETG and it's chewing through nickle coated brass like crazy.
You need hardened steel for that.
Nickel-coated brass is only going to reduce residual build-up (and tarnishing) and help somewhat with the abrasiveness of glow-in-the-dark filaments.

>>1503561
If you can find people to buy your prints yes. You can make money even easier if you sell the 3D models directly and take commission.

>>1504071
literally any other nozzle type would last longer than plated bronze

>>1504145
>>1504161
I just renewed my hobby license, no problems. Just make sure you tick "non-profit" or "non-commercial", can't remember what it said, when you click on "get subscription".

How do I print support material with polycarbonate? Isn't polycarb too hot for PLA?

>>1504247
How would using 2 kinds of filament work for that anyways?

>>1504256
I don't know, that's why I came here for advice. I'm printing some really intricate parts for a wing, and they have lots of overhangs.

>>1504247
Then use ABS or HIPS?

>>1504263
Wouldn't you have to switch filaments everytime it wanted to make supports? If the wing is PLA, PLA support should be just fine?

>>1504266
Is that known to work? Don't they have lower temperatures too?

>>1504267
Dual extruders? Or is there another way I'm not aware of?

>>1504270
You have a dual extruder machine or you were going to buy one just for this project?

>>1504274
For the sake of this project. I do however need to print in polycarb for its high strength and stiffness since this is going into an aircraft, though. I used a commercial Fortus printer at school for this sort of stuff previously, but unfortunately I don't have $200k to spend on a printer.

>>1502261
>take them down
Leave them shits up year round familam

What do you think of my bow?

>>1504070
nice, measured how?

Lads, what extruder would you use for a 11500mm long bowden setup?
>Bondtech/BMG
>E3D Titan
>Thingiverse B2D
We already have an E3D Volcano setup, so I'm tempted to go with the Titan. Doesn't have the polish of the BMG though
>inb4 ditch the Bowden
Don't a direct drive, that would add mass to the delta head.

Lads, what extruder would you use for a 1500mm long bowden setup?
>Bondtech/BMG
>E3D Titan
>Thingiverse B2D
We already have an E3D Volcano setup, so I'm tempted to go with the Titan. Doesn't have the polish of the BMG though
>inb4 ditch the Bowden
Don't a direct drive, that would add mass to the delta head.

>>1504418

I'd try to decrease the length, there's no magic extruder that can fight filament bends at that scale. Using fat 3mm filament helps but it's not that much of a solution.

>Don't a direct drive, that would add mass to the delta head.

You can suspend the extruder close to the effector, keeping the bowden tube relatively short like in the pic. Detailed article:

https://www.fabbaloo.com/blog/2015/11/15/the-flying-extruder-the-best-of-bowden-and-direct-3d-printer-extruders

>>1504424
That's really cool, do you need any extra motors or is it just linkages?
A semi-direct drive belta seems really attractive tbqh.

>>1504424
We currently have this kind of extruder:
https://reprapworld.nl/products/extruder/cold_ends/simpele_metalen_cold_end_1_75_mm/
I'm pretty sure all three would be an upgrade over this.

The previous guy who maintained this printer already went to a flying extruder, it sucked. We have a 500mm radius buildplate, and we are approaching 120mm/s print speeds. You can imagine that a flying extruder has quite a lot of inertia at that speed, controlling it's movements is hard. We are getting much better results with the retardedly long bowden, we just need to optimise retraction a bit further. Still, that extruder could be a lot better.

>>1504429
Delta printers suck, cartesian is masterrace.

>>1504429
Oh wait it's just counterweights i see.
So it's pretty damn simple as well.
If i ever get around to making a delta i'll definitely use this setup.

>>1504429
>>1504431

Yeah, it's practically just hanging on a string. I remembered seeing this setup before, so i suggested it here.

>>1504430

I agree that deltas objectively suck, but at 120mm/s you're likely to have printing problems even on a cartesian.

>>1504430
>>1504436
I mean honestly delta seems pretty good since rigidity is almost a nonissue in 3d printing and those speeds are pretty attractive.

Brainlet here what's a delta heae

More designing and printing. Bought a new gun on black friday, but the grip situation sucked. Right where it's most comfy to hold the gun is an awkward, open magazine well. It looks like the designer had something in mind and just said "fuck it, I'm done with this shit." So I printed out a grip that fits over the lip of the mag well and put just the slightest considerations to ergonomics and voila, something that is actually comfortable to hold.

>>1503166
Sounds like your bed thermistor might not be accurate, PLA on aquanet holds like a lamb on the devils barbed cock for me.

>>1504413
Midrange chinesium calipers, supposedly accurate to 10 μm which I realise might be a stretch but the jaws are stainless steel and they seem fairly on point when I've put various feeler gauges in them.

I calibrated my extrusion width a few times using single walled cubes and filament of known high accuracy and then adjust my steps for each roll of filament when accuracy is required by measuring in a few spots.

>>1504191
Really silly question: does the back of the nozzle body have to be flush with the heater block or is it okay for it to hang out a bit? I think the threading on most of the hardened steel nozzles I've seen is a little longer than the threading on the nozzles that fit my block perfectly.

>>1504469
>buying a pcc in the age of $300 mil spec AR's

>>1503166
>>1504480
>me posting a question and then ignoring the thread for three days
Tried it. I'm using some sort of PLA+ which became noticeably soft and soggy on a 70°C bed but I tried 60 and it did stick better.

The thing is the model always sticks just fine, if I can get it started printing then it won't budge. Made a 3dbenchy boat thingy and stuck on a barbed cock is a good way to describe it. Except the first layer always fucks up on sharp corners; that same benchy has absolutely fucked up bottom text because as the letter contours were being laid down on the first layer they kept being jerked around and not staying where they're supposed to. Once the bottom around the letters was filled in though everything continued just fine, and Cura's default skirt which has no sharp corners laid down perfectly.

Right now my two leading theories are that there are fingerprints or something and it's making the bed work inconsistently. My chink feeler gauge also came slathered in oil (against rust I presume) so I might have gotten the bed greasy while levelling. Gonna try washing it with soap.
And the second theory would be that the bed is too low, but it doesn't look like it at all. I levelled it to about 0.05-0.06mm, the 0.08mm gauge definitely wasn't fitting under the nozzle. If washing doesn't help I'll raise it a smidgen more. And then if that fails I'm flipping it around to a plain glass surface and rubbing a glue stick all over it because fuck this

>>1504388
draw weight?

>>1504497
>Except the first layer always fucks up on sharp corners;
Sounds like you may be leveling a bit too close to the bed. 0.10mm is a good starting point.

>Right now my two leading theories are that there are fingerprints or something and it's making the bed work inconsistently.
Clean with some alcohol. Do not use dishwashing soap, that stuff is specifically design to attract rubbish.

>And then if that fails I'm flipping it around to a plain glass surface and rubbing a glue stick all over it because fuck this
You don't need glue on a 60 degree heated glass bed to print PLA. Do it without, and your prints will come off even easier.

>>1504496
>Implying you can get a 9mm chambered AR for $300

>>1504504
A 9mm AR IS a PCC (pistol caliber carbine), and that anon was implying you're stupid for buying any PCC when you can buy a cheapass AR instead.

>>1504504
9mm a shit

>>1504503
>Sounds like you may be leveling a bit too close to the bed
I would have imagined the complete opposite. I levelled to 0.06mm, I'll try lowering the bed on your advice.
>Clean with some alcohol.
Good idea
>you don't need glue
At this point it's not about what's needed, it's about what will fucking work at all. I'll try your suggestions though.

>>1504527
Another useful tip: if you're getting bad adhesion on the first layer, possibly due to leveling, set your first layer as high as possible (and slow it down to compensate). If you're 0.05mm off on a 0.1mm layer height print, that's a 50% error. If you're 0.05mm off on a 0.3mm layer height, that's reduced your error to below 20% - the print may properly stick. if you're a lazyass who doesn't properly level his bed every print (like me), this can work wonders. Maximum layer height is 75% of nozzle diameter, so assuming you have a 0.4mm nozzle, you can set your first layer height to 0.3mm.

>>1504506
How much is subsonic 5.56? How much is subsonic 9mm? I would have saved $100 only to have lost it in my first ammo purchase.

>>1504532
>Buying ammo
This is /diy/, handload or GTFO.

>>1504500
120lbs

>>1504533
Well you got me there.

Anyone else tried to switch the firmware on a Tronxy Melzi 2.0 board? i haven't been able to, do i need to reinstall the bootloader or what?
I suppose i could just get ramps 1.4 but it would be so nice to get this shit working, i wanna install a heated bed on my printer, i've got all of the hardware but this damn board doesn't take the firmware.

Trying to calibrate a DLP resin. I printed a calibration pattern according to https://github.com/altLab/photon-resin-calibration

From a previous calibration it looked like 80s was the right exposure which was a lot. Printed some stuff with that setting and of course everything was overexposed, every measurement was around +10% larger than it should have been.

Pic related is new exposure time range pattern, can you guys help me out what timing should i pick, this shit is so hard to decide on. I was thinking around 30-36

I got an extrusion issue, printed a solid blob straight onto the heating element on the extruder. When I was attempting to clean off the blob, I cut the thermistor cables. There's so much gunk all over it I can't even remove any screws. Tried unclogging with a soldering iron to get the stuff heated to remove with a brush.

Am I being a pussy in buying a replacement heating element and thermistor instead of fixing it?

>>1504745
It's a $20 fix (if that) vs. the cost of possibly burning down your printer or house.

Just get the thermistor and heater.

>>1504665
May want to use a different resin.
Something like monocure rapid should be curing in less than 10s per layer

>>1504768
This.
18s seems to be fully curing it but you clearly have some other problems getting detail out of it

I got an i3 mini on Friday and got it up and running today. How was something so dangerous to my free time only $150?

I watched it print benchy from start to finish, 3 hours. I couldn't bring myself to look away, now I'm browsing upgrade part prints.

>>1504774
>>1504768
Time is not a concern.
This is what i have and i dont really want to just dump it down the drain.

>>1503142
Is there a problem with it being upside down as long as the teeth bite the filament? I was thinking of putting it upside down since I can't put a rotating spinner over it, it falls off.

>>1504603

Not a Tronxy, but i'm currently using a regular Melzi and i've flashed a firmware on it dozens of times by now. Did you put the autoreset jumper on before tryng to flash it?

>>1504835
oh which pins is that?

>>1504843

When this jumper is on, the board should start resetting itself periodically. AFAIK the microcontroller only accepts flashing during the very initial boot sequence and will time out after it loads Marlin. Pressing the reset button and immediately hitting "Compile and Upload" on the Arduino IDE should have the same effect. Not sure if the "power from USB" jumper needed to be set or not, i think it should work in both cases.

>>1504852
Oh i see, i'll try it out with that then, i already had the power from USB on

>>1504862
I keep getting this when trying to upload marlin. Any idea what it might be?

>>1504866
Exactly same with Repetier.

>>1504866

Looks like the same resetting issue. You could try hitting the reset button on the board as it repeats it's attempts to connect. Also did you set the USB-serial port to the right one and the board type to Sanguino/Sanguinololu 16mhz?

>>1504893
Yeah Sanguino and ATmega1284P 16MHz
kinda bummed about this, the board has served me well and i wouldn't mind keeping it around for heated bed operation.

>>1504908

What about the serial port? Since most AVR chips only take regular serial connections, Arduino-compatible boards feature a USB-to-Serial chip made by FTDI that handles the conversion. You can check which COM port it's assigned to in the device manager. On linux it would be one of the usbTTY's in /dev

>>1504910
It's giving me a choice between COM3 and COM1 i think COM3 ought to be the correct one but i've tried both and neither work.

>>1504922

Can you look into your boards.txt in the sanguino folder and check the baudrate? You could set it to "atmega1284.upload.speed=19200" and save. Also have you tried running Pronterface to see if you can even connect to the board and give it commands?

>>1504925
Tried it with 19200 but it doesn't work, tried it with 115200 speed as well since that same number is the baud rate and idk if that's related to this stuff at all but neither worked.

>>1504960
Hmm, the only thing that comes to mind right now is to try something stupid-low like 9600. Did you try pronterface to verify it's connecting at all?

>>1504983
Does it count if i can connect to it on Repetier Host?
I attached a motor to the board and i am able to manipulate the motor through Repetier.
having changed from USB power to ATX power and having swapped the connector from USB to ATX position the error message has changed.

>>1504996
nvm back to this
i think that other one is when it doesn't connect to the board at all like when it is turned off

>>1505002
have you tried connecting to it with a serial console program (not the one thats part of the arduino environment)

>>1504996

Yeah, as long as it works then it's connected.

Reading up on this issue on a few forums and the Marlin github, reflashing the bootloader fixes the issue for some people with the Melzi. One user on a forum mentions that the chinks don't include the bootloader on some of their boards on purpose, to prevent flashing by the user. Not many ways to prove this, but i wouldn't be surprised if it's true.

If you're feeling adventurous you could try to flash a new bootloader using a 5$ Arduino Uno or a Nano. There are guides for doing this, and the melzi has the ISP pins broken out into a little 6pin header in one corner so it shouldn't be too difficult.

>>1505047

Also something you can try beforehand - someone else mentioned that he tried it specifically on the Tronxy Melzi 3.0 and it worked with some old version of the arduino IDE (1.0.5). Btw funny part - there is no actual official Melzi 3.0, the chinks just called their board that.

Aaaaah my bed isn't coming off what the FUCKJKJH
BED STUCK
PLEASE
I BEG YOU

>>1505061
Let it cool down, if need be, throw it in the fridge. Clean your buildplate better next time, and level it a bit further off.

>>1505063
No my literal (glass) bed wasn't coming off the printer
The solution was actually to heat it back up, then I was able to pry it away

>>1504768
>>1504774
Ahh the classic not answering the question deal.

>>1505071
Sounds like you have a bed that's sagging like elderly tits.

>>1505084
More like my setup is tits-on-head retarded. You know how the Ender 3 has a magnetic bed, and the bottom part of it is glued to the metal bed plate? I wanted to use glass instead, but was too lazy to unglue that, so I just removed the magnetic top and put the glass on top of the bottom half.
Presumably they ended up sticking due to being pressed together and repeatedly heated.

>>1503065
>I did two layers and let it dry
I'm no engineer, but I thought you're supposed to stick stuff together with the adhesive before it dries.

>>1505047
>One user on a forum mentions that the chinks don't include the bootloader on some of their boards on purpose, to prevent flashing by the user.
Yeah i think this is the case here, though i can't imagine what they'd gain from making customers unable to flash their shit. Maybe it made the production somehow easier or something.

>>1505153
>Maybe it made the production somehow easier or something.

That's a good theory; they could be programming parallel. The bootloader is only used for serial (slow) programming; almost nobody uses parallel programming even though it is way faster, because it requires 12 volts on RESET and 8 data lines.

>>1505156
damn annoying
i don't need anything more than pic related to install the bootloader do i?

>>1505168

I've used those to install bootloaders, and I'm pretty sure it's in the Arduino menu. You need to make sure the fuses are correct because they control the amount of memory for the bootloader. On some AVRs (maybe all) the default fuses give you the maximum boot size, but they might have changed them. You can use that device with avrdude to read and write the fuses repeatedly, because they aren't actual fuses that burn out.

>>1505168

I haven't used this one, i was thinking about an Arduino Nano like:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/NANO-3-0-controlador-compatible-con-arduino-NANO-CH340-turno-USB-controlador-ninguna-CABLE-V3-0/32899731509.html

I'd still first check if flashing works with the old 1.0.5 Arduino IDE by the way, i've had cases where certain versions just refused to work with my Melzi sometimes.

>>1501941
I just had a superb idea.
Combine little cheap 0.96" OLED screens with cheap credit card magnifiers. Combine them into an OLED/magnifier holder/focus/screen/shroud and maybe a project box.
OLED:
https://www.ebay.com/p/0-96-in-I2c-IIC-Serial-128x64-White-OLED-LCD-LED-Display-Module-Ssd1306-Arduino/2160091528?iid=391968484031
magnifiers
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10PCS-Portable-Credit-Card-3X-Magnifier-Magnifying-Magnification-Fresnel-Lens/271727681576?hash=item3f443b6028:rk:1:pf:0

>>1501941
Can I stop and start a print misprint with a ardicuno?

I know a geetech like this you can control your printer but it doenst FUCKING say if you can stop mid print.

I want to have a camera and watch my print so if theres an error and I'm not at home I can see it on my phone and stop it. But I am so fucking confused. Can I even hook up a camera to work like that with just an Ardicuno?

AAAHAHAHAAHAHAAAAAAAAAA!

>>1504509
The one one the bottom lever action right? How much ammo can it hold?

>>1504388
You got the file link senpai

What's everyone's favorite brand and color of filament? Looking to expand my library.

>>1505493
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3239563

>>1505526
Hatchbox makes some pretty good stuff (or at least did 2 years back last time I bought it) and I like the Neon Green and Gold they offer. White's good as well.

>>1505526

Not a reccomendation as i haven't tried them, but i recently noticed that Colorfabb now offer PLA with any RAL color on demand. Some of them look pretty neat, like the mint turquoise.

>>1505526
I'm pretty sure it's a Torwell rebrand but the standard blue PLA that technologyoutlet sells is a really nice semi translucent colour with a deep sheen to it.

>>1505485
Just use Octoprint like everyone else. Use the astroprint plugin and you can even cancel a print remotely.

>>1502067
What is this?

>>1505574
Thanks my dude!

>>1505537
Thanks, a better modification of this is on the middle section where the arm bracket is connected by a bolt and screw instead it would simply have a enclosure it would slide inside of with a mid tight tolerance.

Usually when these bows all flexed up there's so much tension that it doesn't have the ability to slide out.

I am looking to get my first printer for chrismas. I am limited in space and can't go over 500€. Do anyone have experience with nice simple models ? I am confused at all the offer.

>>1505591
CR-10 if you think you'll need the build volume, if not Ender 3 with as much upgrade as they'll give you.

>>1505591
This>>1505595
If you are going to get a cr10 consider getting a cr-10S for about 400$. Or so. It's a little more than the regular cr10 tho. But it has 2 dual z axis rods, a bootloader I think for software upgrades, filiment run out sensor, and power outage recovery.

Idk I got a standard cr10. The only thing I'd care for is the second dual z axis rod. But I can upgrade that myself.

Most mods are 3d printable, but you want to get a stepper motor dampener for the noise regardless or what you buy.
Ender 3 has a lot of praise also.

>>1505591
My boy Marco seems to like the Cetus 3d quite a lot and it seems really attractive in this price range, proper linear rails and all.
Too bad it is somewhat proprietary.

Does anyone know a printer than can print silicone? (or any rubber-like material) Thanks

>>1505834
Why would you need that? Dragon Dildos come in discrete packages.

>>1505842
Fingerprints, masks (for disguises)

>>1505834
You're better off printing a negative of your model to act as a mold, then cast silicone inside.

>>1505692
>cantilever
fuck that and fuck printrbot for popularizing that design.

>>1505919
literally nothing wrong with it.

>>1505960
explain please.

Anyone ever build a lithographic 3d printer, the kind that shoot a projection on a pool of resin and can print at real time speeds? I make robots as a hobby/program them to do random shit and I'd like a way to create prototype limbs and such faster.

>Where do I buy the resin that hardens on UV light contact
>Any build plans?
>Whats a good price range?

>>1506021
>Anyone ever build a lithographic 3d printer
Sure.
>the kind that shoot a projection on a pool of resin and can print at real time speeds?
Any printer prints at real time speeds. I think you are misunderstanding something.
>Where do I buy the resin that hardens on UV light contact.
On the internet for about 50$ per liter. Prices vary.
>Any build plans?
No, I made it up as I went.
>Whats a good price range?
I wouldnt know, I'm at about 1000$ on my build but I can reuse my projector as a regular display device.

>>1506024
Real time meaning not shooting jizz out of an extruder and taking 8 hours for a 10x5x5 cm object.

>What projector did you use as a base.
>Are you using custom software
>Could you link your sourcing for the resin?

>>1506025
>8 hours for a 10x5x5 cm object
Depending on the resin and pigments it might take longer than that.
>What projector did you use as a base.
I'm using an Acer H6510BD. It has the advantage of not needing modifications to cure resins or focus to a smal area. The disadvantage is that its focus plane is quite uneven and so only the middle of its projection area is realy usable.
>Are you using custom software
Yes
>Could you link your sourcing for the resin?
So far I'm using funtodo resin but I'm not to happy with it becaue it shrinks and cracks quite a bit. If you realy want it just search for the name.

>>1506036
Sounds like a larp or low quality projector. I've seen some chinesium no name litho printers at my university that can print a few mm/minute.

>>1506041
>can print a few mm/minute
Right, with a fast resin and no pigments that works. The catch is that fast resins have lots of shrinkage and without pigments you'll get a lot of bleedtrough.

>>1506043
Can I ask what the point of a 3d printer is when it takes an eternity to make anything? You'd be better off with a cheap CNC machine

>>1506003
no u

>>1506051
Go and make >>1506036
with a cheap CNC.
Different machine with differerent purposes.

>>1504829
sounds like yours might already be upside down (compared to the enders I've seen and have).
There should be enough room on a stock ender 3 above the toothed gear to put a hand crank on the shaft without it falling off

>>1505092
woah good to know.
I was about one day from doing this to my e3pro.

Is the bottom magnet damaged at all from having to pry the glass off at temperature?

>>1505118
thats pretty much impossible when your printing with a heated bed. With all the adhesives I've ever used on a heatbed, you need it to still be tacky after drying out; A property aquanet hairspray is supposed to excel at

>>1506055
You said your build cost 1k, here you go:
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/low-cost-Funny-diy-cnc-router_60686456368.html?spm=a2700.7724857.normalList.74.47a244e2QIIptt

>Effective working travel

375(X)mm*535(Y)mm*65(Z)mm

>Maximum speed

0-4000mm/min

>>1505490
The average 30-30 lever longgun holds 5 rounds, but that one looks a slight bit shorter than a stock 5 round Henry, I'd guess 4 in the tube mag.
A chart like thought should really include length of barrel for the data to be meaningful

>>1505526
Been really satisfied with Ziro PLA. Colorme3d also have a bunch of really great translucent PLA colors with "haze" in the name.

>>1506068
That won't make what is depicted in >>1506036
You madlad. As I said, CNC mills are usefull, probably more usefull than the printer I built for most purposes. It's just a different machine.

>>1506075
>Make the front side
>Flip over
>Make back side

I'm not quite sure what you're on about.

>>1506077
do it and post image

>>1506051
I've never been able to manufacture plastic products in my living room as fast as I can with a 3d printer. Even the ultrabasic models like a 30mm cube, manufacturing plastics just isn't feasable.

You don't have to stand there and watch it the whole time. If a model takes 30 hours, you just have to start it 30 hours earlier than you need the object finished.

imho I like to compare print time with how long it would take to buy and ship from Amazon. its usually cheaper and takes less time than buying and shipping an object

>>1506068
when your maximum working speed can be anywhere from 0 to 4000mm/min you're taking a huge fucking gamble.

fingers crossed that you don't get one with a max speed on the lower end of that acceptable range of tolerance.

The biggest reason I have a 3d printer (FDM) over any other cnc machinery is the price of the stock. My machines can run for like 80 hours on 10-15 US dollars worth of material. I can print small-medium sized awkward shaped items without wasting material, if its not perfect I can adjust and reprint. there are no chips to recycle or scrap, there is no negative cut out blank that needs scrapped or recycled.

There is a wide variety of materials to choose from, and none of them are particularly heavy or expensive compared to metals or even hardwood. hell even acrylic and shitty laser cutting stock.
FDM has truly become the king of in home machining.

>>1506084
But let me ask a simple question.
>Would it be faster that a 3d printer that costs the same at even 10mm/min.

>>1506063
Not that I can tell. Well there's a small bubble in the middle, I have no idea whether that has anything to do with this (or it might have been there before). Haven't tried sticking the magnetic top on again but I doubt anything would go wrong there

>>1506051
Most normal people have these things called a family and jobs where they spend 5 days at a time without any free time. Being able to setup a print and leave it for 10,20,30,40 hours is not a big deal to have something that is exactly custom made for your needs.

That's why the instantpot became such a success, it sucks completely as a pressure cooker and takes three times as long, but you can set it up and leave it to do it's thing unsupervised which is what makes all the difference.

Anyone got any suggestions for a 3D printer around 10,000 dollars? Im looking to start manufacturing from home and I have only used printers around 2000 dollars this far.

>>1506163
If you need a lot of accuracy/special materials

Otherwise why not buy a few different printers, like a couple of small reliable ones, and a few more specialty ones like a dual extruder, maybe one resin printer.

No idea how much good resin printers cost


Depends entirely on what you're making though.

>>1504485
It's supposed to be flush. You might need a new heater block if you can't shorten the nozzle yourself.

>>1506163
Anon FDM machines cap at $1000

200x200x200 outer dimensions
120x120x90 print area
Frame completely printable on 200x200 print plate, component cost not much over $100 all things considered.
Includes a heated bed so printing ABS is easy and due to the small size an enclosure is extremely easily sourced.

>>1506247
nice meme ornament

>>1506163
Lmao get a cheap SLS at that point

Does a heated aluminum plate require a capton tape added on top for good adhesion to the print?

>>1506275
Thanks :^)

>>1506309
yea it needs something. kapton is better than blue tape, but not by a huge amount. PEI and/or buildtak are the current gold standard

>>1506272
Nice. Plans? Stls?

>>1506205
*hobby grade FDM machines

>>1506426
What does "x materials" mean? Do they actually have undecuple extruders or something?

>>1506431
Its Stratasys, what do you think?
It means how many different filament types are whitelisted for use with the machine.

hello, can I use a Noctua NF-A4x10 as an extruder fan ? 4.82 CFM
I print PLA only and i'm not thinking about printing ABS anytime soon

>>1506455
why not?
aslong as u have a decent airduckt everyfan can work.
i dont knwo whats so special about that one, but most other printers also use somethign about 400 mm i think

>>1506457
>i dont knwo whats so special about that one
Quietness, the stock fan (from Anet A6) is too loud

>>1506465
you should check the airflow specs of the old fan, but sins its probably a noname fan i think you can test it out and just make some testprints before and after to tune up or down the fan% if needed.

I'm looking for a printer under $200 that has a heated bed, 200x200 print platform, and that just works, i don't mind the setup as i'm fairly experienced already but i want it to "just work" like a Prusa when you press print. I'm looking to print ABS so a heated bed is a necessity while a parts cooling fan is not required.
I've been considering the Tevo Tarantula, anything else i ought to look at?

>>1506478
i have tevo tornado, very happy with it. however the glas bed has a plastic adhesive to is to make the prints stick better, that works great with PLA however the sticky layer will buble at ABS temps. i dont know what bed adhesion the tarentula has, but that would be my only concern. The rest of the tornado is good at default settings.
it is my first and only printer so im sure if u know what u r doing it should be fine, but thats the tornado, not the tarantula

>>1506478
>under $200
>"just work"
pick one.
>like a Prusa
what are you even saying here?

>>1506493
Basically i'd rather be a freeloader than pay for Prusa development costs, european wages, brand, and customer support.

>>1506493
>what are you even saying here?

He's saying "i want to have my cake and eat it too"

How come some 34mm length Nema 17 steppers have a rated current of 0.4A while others have a rated current of 1.4A?
These two seem to have the same torque.
The 0.4A one has much higher phase resistance and phase inductance whatever those mean.
I'm considering buying the ones in this link because they're the cheapest i could find but i'm wondering if they'll perform as well as well as 1.4A ones.
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-Ship-Nema-17-Stepper-Motor-34mm-26Ncm-36-8oz-in-0-4A-12V-Nema17-Step/1984315_32907886993.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.6.433c56c1UqPVd6

>>1506597
Calculate the wattage and you will se they are about the same. For a 3d Printer you want low Phase resistance since the drivers are optimised for that.

>>1506513
>He's saying "i want to have my cake and eat it too"

that saying makes more sense if you use the original version: you can't eat your cake and have it too, which is the way ted kazinsky the unabomber put it in his manifesto, which was one of the clues that led his brother to rat him out.

>>1506599
Alright i'll get the 1.3A ones, a shame the best priced ones so far seem to be the 0.4A ones.

>>1506597
I think the high inductance ones won't go fast enough, change direction quickly, ect.
I saw a list of steppers that had been successfully used on 3d printer builds and all but one were 5mH or less. The 12 volt high inductance one that was listed came with a note that more or less said it worked but shouldn't be taken seriously due to it's high inductance.
Can't remember the source though.

I did try a 12V one on my extruder (tried it because it was cheap) and never got a good print until I changed it.
On a side note, it works good as a generator. When connected to a lower volt motor it'll spin it when it's spun, even at low speed.

>>1506597
>These two seem to have the same torque.

But they DON'T have the same phase inductance. In a nutshell, the lower the phase inductance, the faster the motor can spin at a given voltage. High-inductance motors produce more torque for a given current, but, at the same time, lose torque at a much lower point in the RPM range.

>>1506163
Used Objet 30
Used zcorp machine
Cheap SLS

If i get this thing working i could probably sell these at $200 a piece while still making at least some profit. Do you guys think that there might be a market for this sort of ultra compact 200x200x200 printer?
And as for design files, there's nothing really secret here, all of the components are easily available etc. but i'll share the STL's after i've sold some or if this whole thing ends up a failure.

>>1506713
whoops

>>1506713
https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/Assembly%20UM2%20stepfile.STEP

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2%20assembly%20manual%20V1.1%20_english.pdf

>>1506720
err what?

>>1504469
Why would you buy something thats uncomfortable to even look at?

I've been looking around for a bit and the absolute cheapest motherboard + display/controller + stepper drivers (DRV8825) combination i've been able to find costs $24.97 including shipping. This is from Aliexpress, has anyone else managed to find anything cheaper?

>>1506783
Why would you want trash?

>>1506793
Literally nothing wrong with ramps 1.4 + Mega 2560 combo for a cartesian machine. What benefits do you actually gain from buying a fancy Smoothieboard or Rambo?

>>1506795
>What benefits do you actually gain from buying a fancy Smoothieboard or Rambo?
You'll have the nicer stuff for whatever you need to use it for in the future?

>>1506815
>nicer stuff
Please give me an example of something concrete they do better than the good ol' ramps 1.4
I suppose those 32bit processors can calculate the calculations necessary for a delta printer better but for a cartesian machine i've actually got no idea what they do better, i suppose the removable fuses are nice on the Rambo but then again that doesn't actually affect stuff like print quality etc.
Even microstepping is something a $100 board doesn't have over a $10 one since you can just throw tmc2130's on either.

>>1505846
>>1505885
Like I said, it's for fingerprints, like the one in this article

https:// qz .com/815103/3d-printed-hand-fingerprint-scanner/

how did you fags replace anycubic i3 megas shit extruder with an edv6. only YouTube video is from a boomer and his 10 yr old who can't film for shit

>>1506842
nigga just screw it all off, see what kind of mounting holes you're dealing with, boot up fusion, draw up an adaptor, save as stl, load up in your slicer of choice, print, and assemble.
or just go to Thingiverse and search for anycubic i3 mega edv6

>>1506847
also would it make sense to switch to ramps 1,4 because i have the shit trigorilla board with soldered stepper drivers

>>1506879
Prolly not tbqh.
The only advantage you could get with a ramps 1.4 are those sweet tmc2100 stepper drivers and while they make a difference it ain't huge.
With cheap stuff like this i've come to learn not to fucking touch it if it functions and does all the basics acceptably.
God knows i've spent way too much time working on my piece of shit $100 tronxy
Also, doesn't the anycubic's board have removable stepper drivers anyway?

I’ve got a print that keeps failing and I can’t figure out why. Bed adhesion is good, first layer is good, retraction is right, buildate is clear and the print looks perfect up until hour 2. Both times though I’ve left the house after 2 hours and come home PLA spaghetti at around the 4 hour mark. It looks like at some point one of the objects got caught on the extractor and has dragged around and hit everything.

Short of redesigning the whole print, does anyone have good methods on diagnosing problems in longer prints?

>>1506970
Print it smaller/quicker first?

>>1506919
fucking chinks removed the feature with the latest board revision like the slant eyed cunts that they are

>>1506824

The Duet and Smoothie have networking and can handle more steppers, but the cheap AVR stuff covers about 80% of the things you can have on a 3d printer. My advice for >>1506783 would be to buy a couple of good mosfets to put on the ramps board since the ones it already has are likely to start a fire. I'd also be worried about the board having thinner traces than usual, but that's not something you can spot from an aliexpress listing.

Euro Buyfag here.
Whats currently a overall good printer with good value? (sub €800)
The Prusa i3 MK3 seems nice but a bit expensive?
What other models are good value?

>>1507109
MK2 then
700€

>>1506970
How high does the print get?
If the nozle catches there's a lot of leverage there to pry the print off of the bed.

Really pushing the edges of the ender3 bed with this one.

>>1507109
anycubic i3 mega. mod it with tmc 2280s mofset und a edv6 extruder. spend the rest of your money on a czech prostitute

Considering getting a Prusa MK2 kit as my general purpose workhorse, is it really worth the price?

>>1507165
Meh, I'm not into hacking for my first printer.
I think I'll stick with the Prusa i3 MK3.

>czech prostitute
I'll actually be in czech next week hehe

>>1507179
Anon just go with the mk2
Basically the same machine with just a little less luxuries.

>>1502603
Have a look on the isbt website for the thread type or failing that look for a gpi thread that is likely the Same

>>1501941
I just got this CR-10 and I cant level the first corner becuase this yellow spring won't fully decompress or it's not strong enough. All the other corners are flush with the spring knobs but the first one. Cant get paper under it. Anyone else have this problem?

Should I take the bed off and add a stronger spring? Do you think It would throw everything off wack if I did that?
Yes I am autohoming

>>1507255
Tighten them all and lower the z-stop. If it's like the one on the ender3 you need to cut off a plastic piece to be able to lower it

>>1507268
Dont know the ender 3, this is first 3d printer for me. And I'm trying to not be retarded. I'll see if I can find that plastic piece.

>>1507271
>>1507268
Oh I fixed it, my retarded ass thought that
Looser=lower

Without realizing how the compression works

Tighter=lower

Off to lowe's to get a few mirrors

Do you prefer to level with paper In 1 of 3 scenarios

>paper is loose and just bairly gets scratched
>paper wont move between the nozzel and bed and then scratches
>somewhere in between

Just a thought

>>1507134
Finished, 11 hours and 2 filament changes later.

>>1507302
I never use paper
I just eyeball it
With some practise that's all you need to get perfect first layer adhesion.

>>1507321
You can easily eyeball it if you use a glass/mirror/reflective surface, if you use a matte surface and don't have good lighting in the room you're better off using paper.

I use receipt paper since it's thinner, at 200/60 temperature, until it barely scratches the nozzle.

Also receipt paper is thermal so I can draw cocks on it using the hot nozzle

>Trying to print emmet's iris box
>too much stringing and globbing for the tolerances, box doesn't work
>turn temp down a few degrees, first layer adhesion is garbage but stringing is still happening

>>1507325
I actually find it a bit harder with a reflective surface.
Matte surface works well, and as for lighting i've got a small but powerful penlight near my printer to see if the print is coming together properly as the lighting conditions aren't very good in that room.

>>1507132
The print probably only gets 30mm high. I just had another, different, print fail in a similar way. I’ll try running a simpler print through and seeing if something is currently fucked with my printer.

How do I clean this sort of melted buildup? I’m this anon >>1506970 could this melted crap be contributing to my problem? Like maybe the heat builds up and this goop drops down and attaches itself to a part, then pulls it away.

>>1507387
I’m a moron.

>>1507388
If it's PLA, hit up at 150°C it become easy to remove with tweezers

>>1507389
Sweet, thanks. Now I just need to figure out how to preheat to only 150 on my printer. I'm very new to all this.

>>1507407
Plug an USB cable from 3d printer to PC -> Cura ( or similar ) -> Pre heat to 150°C
If you want to do it from your printer directly, I guess it depends of your firmware but it should be something like :
Menu > Control > Nozzle > 150

>>1507418
Cheers, got it the second way. Lets hope this + a simpler print, helps fix my problem!

>>1506824
Ramps 1.4 + Mega 2560 is okay for most people specially beginners who dont want to spend too much and dont want to spend money on stuff they never use, but at the same time the hardware is kinda at its limits and becoming somewhat outdated. If you are running an Octopi you probaly have noticed that the print quality is worse on complex prints even for cartisian machines than when you print from an SD card directly or didnt know about it and literally wasted almost a month trying to "fix" your printer like i did, the ram of the Mega 2560 is simply to full with other stuff, so the buffer is too small to handle all the data sometimes over the USB. TMC2130 were bit a mess for a long time, since it involved changing stuff on the RAMPS for 24V (with out 24V the TMC2130 aint at their full potential) and at the beginning you had to use pins that were already use for the LCD, dont get me even started with the hattel of getting the TMC2130 software confiugred on the RAMPS. Alternatively to make the RAMPS 24V you could connect the TMC2130 directly with the 24V, but then you had to time the power on both supply voltages since if the wrong one got power before the other it could fry part of the RAMPS/2560.
This is kinda the thing here with the RAMPS + 2560, there is a solution for everything, but those solutions often create entire different problems to downright damage your hardware when you dont know every aspect of the mod well. Someone is currently working on a RAMPS 1.7 with 16/32 bit-, 12/24V multiple rail (different voltages for heaters/fans/motor drivers) and TMC2130 support all configureable through jumpers, but til you can get one cheap, it probaly will take at least another half a year and then you probaly still have problems with design faults and shitty chinese producers.
I am currently using a Duet Wifi on my older cartisian machine, in prepartion of building a bigger new one and it is just so much more hazzle free and convinient. Stuff just works.

>>1507318
Pretty good I have to say

>>1507388
leave it
better than no insulation

>>1507436
What about tmc 2100? Aren't they kinda like the 2130 but with less features? Do they require any special setup.
I can totally understand how the 1.4 could be a restrictive platform but for me only having to pay 25€ and getting basically the same performance with sd cards as with any other board is just damn hard to beat.

>>1505578
Looks like a diy dart gun/Airgun. You can see the pressure chamber built into the stock and the picattiny rail piece is what looks like a pump for it.

>>1507529
>What about tmc 2100? Aren't they kinda like the 2130 but with less features? Do they require any special setup.
Like i said before, the solution is somewhere out there, you have to figure it out on your own now, that is part of the problem.
>I can totally understand how the 1.4 could be a restrictive platform but for me only having to pay 25€ and getting basically the same performance with sd cards as with any other board is just damn hard to beat.
I dont say, that you should not get it, you just should be aware that the system is kinda at its end or limit, every change you want to make to it will be somewhat troublesome, be it through new problems they cause or first trying to figure out how you need to do it the right way. And in the end you might end with paying nearly as much as the costier option.
For me it was:
Ramps 1.4, Mega2560, Display(, 4xA4988 i would not need), about 35€ (simply didnt want to go for the cheapest crap)
Octopi (Rasperry Pi 3, Sd card, power supply with switch) about 50€
5x genuine TMC2130 for movement and dual extrusion about 50€
Thats about 135€, for a set up that still requires a ton of tinkering and learing. Just got a Duet Wifi instead for around 150€, lost the Display but got stronger drivers and CPU, all configureable through a web interface. On the other hand i am kinda stuck with it now.
The question is what you want and need, tinkering at the beginning can be good, but it also can cause a lot of trouble and in the end you are fed up with it like me, since you are dealing with so many different things at once, that you just lose the overlook and spent time trying to figure out this and that problem. If you dont have to care about the loudness and dont mind using the SD card, by all means take the cheap route.

>>1506825
And like the article says, " To bring the price down, the team is working on 3D printing a mold for the hand, instead of printing the hand itself every time." Just as I had suggested.

>>1507318
This is pretty fucking cute! What kind of kit was needed to fit so few keys on a board?

>Printing F1 wheel
>Still not done with left grip
>Want it to finish so I can start up right side before I go to sleep
Why is it always so slow bros?

Finished the cable chains. The bed chain was fucked up by the guy who designed the mod, who didn't actually try out his own mod and realize it collided with his extruder tail. Someone made a remixed cover but fucked up the dimensions so that it didn't actually mate with the chain.

Oh well, I'll print a shim tomorrow.

>>1507599
>Finished the cable chains
Does the cable chain add more noises ?

>>1507630
No, but it looks cool.

>>1507559
It was a custom pcb a guy produced a small amount of, a slanted version of the planck. Old case was pic related. If you're interested in 40% boards look for the planck pcb or search for 40% keyboard pcb on ali.

>>1507599
Why do people put cable chains on at all

It’s happened again. It was a different, but similar, print this time. I got over 5 hours into this print, checking on it almost every 10 minutes. Absolutely nothing looks like it’s going wrong. First layer was good. Minimal stringing. No obvious warping on any parts. Then I go away for 30 minutes and find that one of the vehicles seems to have been picked up and pushed around by the extruder.

I’m so confused. Everything looked perfect every time I checked and the file was different to the last fail. I’ve also printed these models before. Maybe I’ll need to start printing these on rafts/brims. Would that help? I hate using unnecessary bed adhesion since I know I’ve printed this without a raft or supports before.

I know you guys can’t help. I just need to vent. I’ve been trying to print these tint tanks for 3 days now. Every time I try it fails after a few hours. Printing on a CocoonCreate Model Maker (Wanchai i3 Mini) that’s never had any problems like this before.

Would there have been any way to save this print by just glueing the fucked object back onto the build plate to “catch” filament?

>>1507685
If you don't want to lose an entire batch, why not print one at a time instead of all at once? You llose some build volume but at least your failure rate doesn't destroy the entire batch.

>>1507687
I’m going to try printing an earlier setup with some of these same models that I know worked. If I can’t get that going then I’m stuck with printing in small batches, which is less than ideal. I don’t particularly want I do one at a time since I need 38 of these tiny vehicles.

>>1507688
I'm pretty sure you could stack at least 7-8 vehicles in a single OAAT batch on a 200*200mm build plate, that's just five batches at most. Certainly beats your current failure rate.

Personally, I'd ditch the tape bed and go for a glass heated bed instead.

>>1507685
99% bad adhesion/warping. The same thing happened to me when printing a batch of identical pieces, 1 of them warped slightly probably because I didn't apply enough gluestick (also shit filament), the nozzle picked it up when travelling from one piece to another, and it all became the grey tumor in pic related after 3 hours. Thank god octoprint exists and I could stop it remotely.

>>1506713
>Do you guys think that there might be a market
Yes and no. I'd love to print my own on my larger CR-10S (I want to print minis without having to waste an entire print bed for larger things), but I sure as shit ain't buying one.

>>1507342
Part cooling and retractions.

>>1507684
Because it spreads any wire fatige across the length of the wire instead of putting it on a single point. It also keeps the wires from getting snagged or damaged.

>>1507685
You aren't printing ABS on an unheated bed are you?
Also how well are the parts stuck to the plate? You ought to have some difficulty removing them, they shouldn't just pop off.

>>1507739
What if i can guarantee Prusa tier quality for $300 shipped as completely assembled and tested.

do I really need to blow air from a radial fan on the nozzle or can I get the air from a regular fan ?

>>1507789
Doesn't matter

>>1507785
I can print it myself and I want to build one myself. I also don't want to pay $300.

>>1507741
Retraction is enabled and I've got the best-reviewed alternate shroud for the i3 mini on it

>>1507784
It’s PLA, but an unbeated bed. As for adhesion, normally it’s pretty hard to remove, but this time it’s a bit easier.

>>1507709
Tell me about your Octopront setup. If I get a heated bed there’s no way I’m going to leave it unobserved.

>>1507691
Is there any particular reason a OAAT batch is better? As for heated bed, it’s an upgrade I’ve considered. I mostly print unattended and was concerned it would increase fire danger.

>>1507994
>Is there any particular reason a OAAT batch is better?
You're putting hot layers on each other isntead of laying down a layer, then doing 31 other models, and coming back to a cold one. Bad layer-to-layer adhesion can easily cause failed prints. Using the one at a time setting in cura instead of all at once allows you to fill the buildplate with models that get printed in one go, which means if they fail (which they will not as likely) you don't ruin the entire batch like you've done.

>As for heated bed, it’s an upgrade I’ve considered. I mostly print unattended and was concerned it would increase fire danger.
Heated beds only go to 50-60 degrees Celsius for PLA, that's not a fire hazard (your 220 degree nozzle is). Getting PLA to stick reliably to an unheated bed is a pain.

>>1508008
>Heated beds only go to 50-60 degrees Celsius for PLA, that's not a fire hazard
IF the thermistor is working and you have thermal runaway activated

>>1508017
I've never seen a broken bed thermistor on any of the 20 printers I work with, nor have I ever seen them reach dangerous/fire hazard temperatures despite the printers being operated and modified by barely qualified students. Using a printer without thermal runaway for the bed is a terrible idea, nevermind for the nozzle.

I bought all there fans thinking the CR 10 was going to be loud as shit but it turns out the one I got from gear best is quiet! I rated it at only 45 decibels running at FR 100%

assuming that everyone is running at FR 100% it looks like I got a machine that was updated with larger bed knobs and some blue lights in control box. (Idk if anyone else has that)

Considering that I wont have it in my room I will just return all this to amazon.

BUT is it worth hanging on to the 40x40x10 fan for the extruder just in case?

>>1508054
excuse me I don't mean the extruder I mean the hotend

Why does Cura do this stupid shit on top and bottom layers here? The lines aren't even inside the model.

>>1508263
Aren't those blue lines just travels?

>>1508265
I meant the thin yellow lines. It seems to be related to the top/bottom pattern, the issue goes away if I change it to concentric instead of lines but I suspect that the concentric pattern isn't as strong as the lines one for the rest of the model I have planned.

>>1508268
Oh those are just something cura throws in gaps where a nozzle wide layer doesn't fit.
Also wtf is that model anyway?

>>1508273
It's a test for a stem for keycaps. Here's the model, you can see that Cura puts those thin lines where it shouldn't.

>>1508273
>>1508277
Ok I fixed it by making the line width 0.805mm instead of 0.8mm. 0.805mm happens to be the thickness of those thinner walls at the end of the limbs on the cross. This is weird because making those walls 0.8mm and setting the line width to 0.8mm doesn't work, the walls won't print, even with print thin walls enabled. Go figure...

>>1507994
>It’s PLA, but an unbeated bed.
Then maybe the prints have started failing because of the colder environment since it's winter. Try heating the bed to 30C or something.

>>1508337
I live in straya. It’s getting warmer every day, but that shouldn’t be causing it. I think it might be a part cooling problem. I managed to catch a failed print today and it looked like some of the bits were curling up at their top edges, so not adhesion but enough for it to grab.

I’m trying a print I know was successful after re-levelling and re-taping the bed. If I wake up to a plastic tumor I’m just going to give up and not print anything until my new fan arrives.

>>1507785
i bought a tevo tornado (30*30*40 cm) for less then that with good printquality aswell.
its not 3d printed, mostly assembled and near free shipping costs from gearbest

>>1507255
is the hotend pushing down on the bed?
otherwise tightem them all or just put some spacers in between.
all springs should be equal tho, so you should check if they are and maybe ask for 1 replacement.

>>1505578
It's a Nerf.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2376150/

Here's my newer smaller design.

>>1507255
i ran into the same thing on my cr10s
I just got mirror tiles from home depot to replace the glass as they were significantly thinner

>>1508362
Yeah man your adhesion aint good enough so it catches and rips the part off of the bed.
Try some z-hop settings, that way your nozzle will not collide with curled up edges while moving.

>>1508376
Chinaman puts out products at competetive prices that's for sure.
But do take into account that bigger doesn't always equal better. A smaller machine is gonna be more rigid allowing for more speed and accuracy for example. And it being so compact is pretty cool as well, making an enclosure for it or transporting the printer etc. would be a breeze.

Well, at least it prints.
The heated bed doesn't function yet because the firmware on the melzi 2.0 that came with my tronxy x1 doesn't support it and those damn chinks didn't bother to include a bootloader.

>>1507994
>Tell me about your Octopront setup
Basically we just bought a raspi model b+ (you want wifi and a good cpu), put octoprint on it, connected an old dusty microsoft lifecam and installed the telegram plugin to send a pic every 15 minutes or so. I can also connect to the web interface or use the octoremote android app to see the life webcam feed and send commands. Once I pushed a print off the bed by controlling the extruder and started another one.

>>1508445
absolute madman

>printer with a radial arm rather than XY rails
How dumb would that be

>>1508461
The further out the extruder (and god forbid direct drive stepper) are from the axis of rotation the more force you need to accelerate the arm and the more rigid your arm must be.
Also it loses "resolution" as you move out of the centre of rotation, like how a delta has less resolution the further away from the middle the extruder is.

>>1508465
Yeah the resolution problem likely means it's not even worth considering. Rigity could be solved using a quarter-circle (or whatever your sweep range is - maybe even full circle?) rail on the outside but if my understanding is correct that would be a heck of a lot more expensive than just a normal straight piece of extruded aluminium.

>>1508445

The Melzi saga from earlier has been my main interest in this thread, are you gonna try flashing a bootloader on it? I wonder if the reason they disabled flashing is because the board has shitty (or perhaps missing) mosfets and putting a bed on would cause them to blow up. Can you post a pic of the board?

>>1508401
I’ll give that a shot on my next new print. It’s currently printing an older print that I know works and it seems to be going fine after 8 hours. I’ve heard there’s a reason not to do z-hop as well, but can’t remember what it is. Any idea what I should be looking out for?

>>1508461
>Serial scara 3d printer
You wouldn't believe

>>1508554
>2DOF arms rather than a rail
I know zilch about robotics but that sounds like a nightmare, at least compared to more sane designs and without any advantage I can see

>>1508540
It’s finally working, but now I hear it’s going to run out of filament before it finishes. I’ve got maybe 2m of another filament left that I can try to hot swap, but I’m not liking my chances.

>>1508605
Oh, now I know what was originaly ment. Well, this exists too.

>>1502066
Tomb Raider II : The dagger of Xian

>>1506494
I've got two prusa's and an ender 3 and I gotta say, the ender is actually more "hit the power, press start and walk away" friendly.

For pretty much only one reason and that is Prusas mesh bed leveling procedure can sometimes leave ooze and stringing on the fresh build surface. the cheaper printers without auto leveling will just start faster once the printer is up to temp.

>>1507180
>>1507166
I've got two mk2's and theyre great. the bed really does need upgraded to the 2.5 u bolts though. Not sure how you're getting a kit, they don't make mk2's anymore. I bought both mine used on clist and ebay for about $400 usd each

>>1507388
I hit mine with a brass brush every once and a while while Its up to temp, removes tons of melty gunk

>>1507685
if you're printing from a pc or pi you can get plugins to remove objects from a print in progress, it basically just erases any gcode that happens in the vicinity of the object you select to remove. Very handy when you have a single loose object on a bed of otherwise fine prints.

>>1508017
I just test the heat bed first. try to drive it to max temperature, many printers can't even hit 80c on the heatbed when they're trying too.On my personal machines I have a generic webcam pointed at my printers, and the powerstrip my printers are on are connected to one of those IOT switches so I can hit the power remotely. The webcam is awesome even without any remote control over the power, I can see the print in progress while I run to the store, or even If I just hear strange noises from another room.

Unplugging a printer in motion isn't really a good idea but I'll do it if its spewing spaghetti. its not going to put out a fire though. I highly suggest a smoke detector in very close proximity to your printer, or inside the printers enclosure if you have one

>>1508614
It made it! I genuinely expected to come home to an unfinished print.

>>1508721
I should start printing from a PC/pi. I currently print from an SDcard and it certainly is limited.

>>1508931
Forgot photo. Almost no filament left.

>>1508721
>Not sure how you're getting a kit, they don't make mk2's anymore.
For real? It's still listed on their website.

>>1508935
gotta love it when that happens. keep the extra half meter for color changing top layer projects.

https://www.prusaprinters.org/color-print/

>>1508515
Yeah i've already ordered an usb adaptor or whatever that ought to be able to help me install a bootloader.
Alao as for the mosfets idk, they've got heatsinks glued on so i don't know if there is some model numbers on them or something.

>>1508945
woah your totally right. I stand corrected

I wonder if they still have old parts and they're selling them out, or if they actually intend to offer two products at different price points.I can tell that one of my mk2 has parts that were made on a mk3 powder coated build plate.

the mk2 is a great printer I'd buy a third one if I found it for sale nearby. You don't need a filament sensor, power interruption memory, or a fancy removable build plate. with the right tools prying plastic of pei+pcb is not hard at all.

>>1508954
Honestly, if those prices represent the actual cost of the printers i could see the mk2 staying around. Almost same results for 150€ cheaper, a lot of customers (like me) will prefer that.
Now if the 750€ price is just because it's a new product and they're paying back investments etc. i could totally see them dropping the price of the mk3 kit to the same as the mk2 kit in the future and completely dropping the mk2, but i kinda doubt it, they're the same machine, the mk3 is just the luxury version.

>>1508950
>>1508515
Wait nvm, the extruder mosfet doesn't have a heatsink (prolly doesn't need one as the extruder doesn't draw that much current) i'm not 100% sure if the heatbed uses same sorts of mosfets but it probably does. Hope that text helps you identify it.
If i manage to upload firware to it i think the solution on the issue of being unable to upload firmware on chink Melzi's ought to be added to the OP.

>>1508970
Ah fuck, now that i look at the picture again i can see that the heatbed mosfet is way bigger.

>>1508405
well ya, thats for sure, more rigid more better he. but im not sure you are gonna get a more rigid setup using 3d printed parts instead of allu extrusions.
and considering how much allu is in the tornado, i think you should be able make it inmovable when scaling down to 20*20, but im not as confident in it if it contains a lot of 3d printed parts.
but i would be happy if you could change my mind

>>1508998
Yeah the 3d printed frame is a tad iffy but i'm getting a quality printer to print it so it is absolutely straight and square also it's like 60mm thick, so i think rigidity wont be an issue.
With those two considerations i'll have solved the two most commong problems i run into when playing around with aluminum, how to get everything absolutely straight, who knows if chinaman managed to cut the ends of the extrusions absolutely square, and getting the whole thing rigid.

>>1508950
>>1508970

OK that doesn't look bad at all - all the mosfets are there and it seems like they've beefed up the component size and thermal pads for the voltage regulator and bed mosfet compared to the stock design, which is good. I can't tell what the models are since they're hidden by heatsinks, but the Fairchild FDD8580's for the hotend and fan are more than sufficient for them. Bigger mosfets doesn't necessarily mean they're better, but at least it hints at good intentions on the designer's part.

By the way, when you do get a proper Marlin working with it, be prepared to have to muck about with the Configuration.h a lot. Things like axis directions, endstop config, steps/mm, thermistor tables etc. are most likely going to differ from the original. Someone made a configuration.h for the Tronxy X1 here that might be worth comparing to:

https://git.x2d2.de/3D-Printing/Marlin-Firmware/blob/12b9bbaa50760349a744674cbf80fb1d049ab4fe/Marlin/example_configurations/Tronxy/X1/Configuration.h

>>1508954
PROGRESS BAD

Sure the smarts aren't an obvious improvement but there are moments when you're happy to have them. As long as they're implemented right. There's literally nothing wrong with them.

The MK3 also has an improved y axis and more stabillity so it's more rigid than the MK2.

The flex bed is also really nice to have and makes things easier and quicker.

I'm more concerned about the i3 series using 3d printed parts for it's construcion elements. An I'm a bit worried about the 8-bit platform of the MK3...

Does anybody here have a Solidworks Associate degree in Additive Manufacturing?

>>1509076
No, but I do have to take a lecture called Additive Manufacturing.
According to it desktop FDM/FFF printers are called fabbers and there is a fabber scene of young individuals who use these fabbers.

Anyone knows where can I get functional prosthetics files?
The kind that doesn't require complex electronics, just simple pulley systems

>>1509126
You can search on thingiverse but chances are that you'll have to model them yourself.
That's a lot of work to be given out for free.

Hey, I've got this old Printrbot simple metal that I've had kicking around forever, pic related. I've never really been able to get amazing results out of it, though. My overhangs and tolerances suck, and the detail isn't super nice. It's got ghosting too... What do you guys think, am I stupid or is the printer shit? Should I get something new?

>>1509214
A bit non rigid frame seems to me.
Also that parts cooling fan setup is pretty shitty.
I'd think those two already explain overhangs and ghosting.
Tolerances are something you wont really get out of a printer, design your parts with that in mind.
Details you get by lowering speed, lowering layer height, and reducing nozzle size.
All in all, if it works and you don't absolutely need it to work better i wouldn't suggest you getting a new printer.

just ordered a MK2S
pretty hyped tbqh

>>1509222
You should be it's a great printer.

>>1509225
Sure hope so
I got myself into 3d printing with the cheapest chink kit i could find so while on the other hand i've spent way too many hours working on that piece of shit i've spent less than half the price of the MK2 on this hobby since i started a year ago.
Wonder what i ought to do with the last one, maybe sell it to a buddy for cheap.

>>1509218
Yeah, I agree on the bit about the frame. I think the next machine I get will be something way more rigid- maybe something prusa-like. I agree on the bit about the cooling fan- one of the first tips PrintrBot used to give with their printers is to print out a cooling manifold, but even then it kinda sucks. I've got a couple blower-style fans coming in the mail, so maybe that'll help.