/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1481755
My whole house has been Phillips Hue Color for a few years now controlled by Google Home. I get any color, any warmth, all dimmable. Pricey at first but I never looked back after I got it all setup.

3-5k is the comfortable range for me.

>I get any color, any warmth, all dimmable
That sounds pretty /comfy/
>Pricey at first but I never looked back after I got it all setup.
How much did that whole set up cost? Looks like it's around 40 per smart bulb.

>>1481758
Fun fact: Philips has the North American patent on RGB light bulbs. Other companies can still do things like strip lights and concert spotlights but aren't allowed to make anything that screws into a light socket.

The light bulbs I design for a living can only be sold in Asia and I'm pretty buthurt about it.

Bumping for interest

I'm looking to replace light bulbs with strips of leds all over. We really like the look of the diffuse light compared to point source light, but I'm looking for ways to mount led strips without looking like shit. The best idea I have so far is to add a little bit of moulding near the ceiling all around the rooms of interest, then mounting the leds on top of the moulding so that they diffuse off the ceiling texture.

The ceilings are pretty much all white, so the diffusion should be fine, but I'm worried that the moulding will look like shit. Anybody have suggestions on how to make a room comfy with 50' or 100' of led strips? Budget is large enough for any reasonable solution, and im already handy with most tools and definitely with electronics, so really custom solutions are fine too. The only thing im missing is the aesthetics. I can include pics of rooms in question, but they're mostly just rectangles of various sizes with plenty of space up high to work with.

>>1481755
>Which light bulbs do you like and use around the house: Incandescent, Halogen, CFL, LED
CFL, LED and incandescent.
>Which is the comfiest color temperature?
4000K. But majority of bulbs in house are 2700K, since they were cheaper for some reason.

Gore time

I wanted to make a thread right now but I saw this and it was relevant

I'm getting tired of this
>getting up to switch the fan light off
meme

And I get annoyed at smart light prices. What's the cheapest switch I can get to replace the old manual one that I can wirelessly turn off and on? Is the Clapper cheap these days? I want to be able to get in bed and turn off the light by my phone or laptop after I'm done checking email, I just need something that my router can interface with

>comfiest color
2700k is a little bright, but it's a compromise for maximum comfy and writing

>>1482308
take some 1/2" thick plywood cut into ~4" width and veneered, and/or some heat-resistant acrylic of similar flat dimensions with or without a metal reinforcement channel
then use screws on the four top-side corners with picture wire to support them (and covertly provide power to the LEDs onboard). how you get the power to the ceiling-side screws is your business
build a dozen or so, stand them off from the walls by one or two widths or place them in the center of the ceiling somewhere, and viola

>>1482331
Sonoff has much cheap IoT and there are community firmwares for it

>>1481760
I have 24 or so. $960. Only one room isn't Hue setup.

>>1481769
Interesting, what course did you take to make that? Im doing industrial design and i wonder how is it like, do you have your own company? Also wont the patent become mainstream in a few years? If so how complicated is it to change markets?

>>1481769
>the world consists of only two geological areas
What about Europe?

All of my house is fitted with Ikea dimmable white spectrum opal bulbs controlled directly by a Smartthings hub, triggered by Amazon echo dots via Alexa voice control. Apart from the bathroom which is going to be gutted and remodelled soon so I'll do the lighting for that at the same time, probably a mix of GU10 LEDs and Ikea GU10 dimmable LEDs (not white spectrum opal). With this system I can individually (or by group) control the brightness and warmth separately, either as I wish or by an automated routine. Kitchen, lounge, spare upstairs rooms, and landing are triggered by motion sensors and turn off after a set time delay. Most lights are set to "warm white" which is 2700 Kelvin but all can reach 4000 Kelvin. The kitchen "bulbs" are Floalt light panels to remove shadows that I used to have with single point bulbs previously. I am not interested in Philips Hue as they are overpriced and I really don't want coloured bulbs, plus you need the hub. If you get the white bulb it is permanently set to 2700 Kelvin all you can do is dim it, although you don't need the hub for this function.

Only LEDs, ~3000K is best colour temperature (fucking manufacturers keep lying about real temperature), dimmable lights are for fags.

>>1481760
>>1482493
My LED bulbs were 4 USD/piece and they are beefy 2500 lumens. Normal 1500lumens are 2.5 USD/piece.

I want to make a heat spotlight for my cat - imitating a beam of sunlight. I see a 500 watt theater spotlight on craigslist for pretty cheap, they advertise that I have a choice of wide, medium or narrow bulbs. What do I want for this purpose?

>>1482308
Don't know exactly what you're going for but would these work so that you wouldn't have point source, but wouldn't have to mount it so strangely.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DC-5V-12V-RGB-led-Neon-pixel-Strip-WS2811-SK6812-WS2812B-Waterproof-Rope-Light-Neon-Tape/32883834067.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.39df4c4dfAjZYA

How important or overpowered is CRI? Is it worth it to use incandescent or halogen bulbs to get that sweet 100 CRI compared to 80 CRI in an LED.

>>1482706
That's really bright? How many watts do those LEDs use? Can you plug them into normal 60 watt sockets?

>>1482767
>CRI
You can find 90CRI LEDs, maybe even better. I don't care since I like warm light so colours are fake anyway, also I don't read picture books so real colours don't matter
>That's really bright? How many watts do those LEDs use?
~20watts to drive them, they give as much light as a ~150W incandescent bulb.

>>1482630
maybe they are smart and don't allow patents on such patent bullshit

>>1482501
> what course did you take to make that?
I have a computer engineering degree. I do the electronics and programming for controlling the lights through Wifi and Bluetooth. An industrial designer handles the physical shape of the bulb. There's also an electrical engineer and app developer on my team.

> do you have your own company
No. I work for a Japanese electronics company that employs half a million people and makes just about everything.

>>1482926
Is it muji? please tell me its muji.

Why is LED lumen per watt still fucked?
I mean fuck, it's absolutely garbage.
LPS btfos any led lamp I've seen. Usually by a factor of 2.
Currently have a 135w LPS bulb good for 22,500lm on order for my new yard light, that I'm going to pair with a 55w 9000lm I think LPS.
I'll run the 135 from dusk till about 11pm and switch it over to the 55w for the rest of the night.

It's all going in some huge high bay light fixture, and there is plenty of room for other lights as well.
I was thinking about chucking leds in it on a switch for if I have a party or I'm working in the yard at night and need color. Or maybe some average metal halides, but the startup time on them kind of sucks.
Any ideas m8s?

>around the house
I like 1600 lumen bulbs, 2700-3000. Fluorescents used to be worth it, decent power LED's are still only like 1200 lumens tho. A high-power 6000k-ish (I think) fluorescent is fine too. They had huge tubes and didn't fit much of anything.

I have a few dimmable LED bulbs, only two in the dining room though. The lower the power, the lower they turn on. I've got some that light up near the minimum, literally so low it is hard to tell they turned on.

Remote-controlled color changing bulbs look neat, but a gizmo.

Personally I've wanted a crown/trim that had an LED strip laid into it. I often point lamps at walls/ceilings, or use area lamps because I really like diffuse lighting. Lighting coming from every place along the ceiling would be very beautiful to me.

I've seen a few high-led panels I might try. Before the goal was a light box with 6-9 high-power yellow-white LED's with heatsinks and fans controllable by a voltage-controlled PWM. Now though it seems easier to use digital PWM from a controller, and get a panel that has fuckload of little LEDs:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uIspnsBp3o4

With the controlled lamp, I wanted to have it synchronized to the sun, though maybe I'd be better off using blackout curtains and an artificial day.

>>1482310
>cheaper for some reason
Lower temperature incandescent bulbs were cheaper to make/lasted longer than higher temp bulbs. Conversely, higher temp LEDs are cheaper to make than lower temp. For fluorescents, it probably based on some business mumbo-jumbo, since blue-white increases visual contrast, despite often being considered straining.

>>1482709
1) what's your angle/distance (i.e. circle of the cone)

2) you may be better off getting high power infrared LEDs, or more obviously, a heat light meant for reptiles. I wonder if you could use a sealed aquarium heater, glass container, and water. Cont

>>1483385
>>1482709
If you used a large, noticeable switch, and maybe even an led display which showed a simple circular timer, you could design it so the cat could turn it on or off, and have a built-in 8-hour switch.

>>1483347
Lumen per watt problem is probably just because so many are overdriven. Looking around LPS are ass for color and normal vision, but have high efficiency. If all you're going for is lumens/watt, you're probably stuck with those unless you're good with T8 bulbs, which seem to get up to 150 lumens/watt (12W, 1800 lumens, 4000k)

Considering the LPS has poor visual quality and is optimized for a wavelength which is brighter to see, it's not surprising it has higher lumens/watt.

Since you're lighting a yard, you could use decorative columns with solar panels on top and LED panels underneath, perhaps connected to mains for when you want to either run them at higher power or keep them on all the time. Could probably find long-term batteries you can build into the column, or just ignore the batteries altogether and have them wired underground.

What kind of people like anything above 6000k?

>>1483387
To properly light the yard, I need at minimum 12,000lm. I tried with the 55w 8000lm LPS and it was jut a bit dim for my autism.
I'd need a LOT of those led T8 bulbs.

But I have been reading, and it looks like if I suppliment the LPS with around 10% of full spectrum light, that will be enough to have color recognition. I still don't really need color recognition, but that's a definite possibility to have a couple of small led lamps in key spots and the one big LPS in the middle.

I also realized last night that I fucked up and the 135w bulb is asking for 164V to run it. I'm hoping it will just run on 120 and like it, or I'll have to spend alot of money on a new transformer ballast

Any of you goys been swapping out your old flourescent shop lights for these LED fixtures? Is it significantly better? And what did you go with?

>>1481769
Can't you guys make a work around? Like separate the screw-in part and the bulb, and make the bulb plug into the screw in

>>1483534
I just wired a bunch of HF led lights together with an 18650 battery. Then I charge the battery straight off a usb wire. Easy peasy...

>>1483385
Philips, Osram have s ~2500lumen LED bulbs, others probably too. Use your search engine before making an idiotic post.

Most of my house is 5000k dimmable LEDs. I like blue light. The bathroom light/fan is 400k because integrated and got it on sale. Bedside lamps are 3000k because sleep.

>>1483385
>Lower temperature incandescent bulbs were cheaper to make/lasted longer than higher temp bulbs
I thought all incandescent bulbs are 2700k tho...
But those are LED. Usually 'cold' light is cheaper, since it requires less phosphorous (or how this yellow shit is called).

>>1483556
Me too. But that was more of an experiment/ fire hazard. I want something that will work and won’t burn the house down.

>>1483556
>>1483670
>being so thirsty for replies that you samefag yourself
Classic tripcunt.

>>1482630
There are trade agreements in place to protect IP.

>>1483725
Figures.

>>1483534
>Any of you goys been swapping out your old flourescent shop lights for these LED fixtures? Is it significantly better? And what did you go with?

i removed teh old ballasts and direct wired mine, much better than the old fluorescents

>>1481755
This a new general? It's a welcome addition.

>>1482767
Anyone here tried to get a series of 10-30 LEDs all of varying wavelengths and hooking them up to drivers in order to get high-CRI RGB? You'd probably want to use phosphor coated LEDs instead of bandgap-defined LEDs in order to have a wider spectrum.

Oh and I bought this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/spectroscope/32856426187.html
and it's really handy for examining CRI and such. It has 2 prisms in there that split light up into a fairly easy spectrum to see, though the cheap plastic housing is a bit too transparent and can flood the spectrum if too much light is incident on it.

>>1483724
You got me!

>>1483844
Io be fair, if you swapped IPs or devices to samefag (not exactly hard if you've a cellphone on hand) you can easily replicate that image. In fact, swapping to your cellphone is arguably no more time consuming than swapping off your trip.

>>1483853
You vastly overestimate how much I car what a bunch of random people on 4chan think of me. Especially considering the only thing those people ever have to complain about is the name.

I think I’m gonna stop by wally world and grab a hot glue gun and fuck with that light more since girl is asleep.

>>1483858
I wasn't one of the guys saying you were samefagging, just disputing what you were treating as evidence.

>>1483347
100-200 lm/W looks good, until you see that that's for scotopic vision not photopic vision, and scotopic vision has a far higher maximum (1699 lm/W at 507nm) compared with that of photopic vision (683 lm/W at 555nm). If you want high luminous efficacy then you'd use a green LED, the phosphor blending to get whites and higher CRIs causes some degree of inefficiency. If you get one of those massive COB LEDs and underpower it then you'd probably get fairly good efficacy. I'm planning on doing the same with some red and green COBs (blue is for shitlords) since my LED strip is too dim and I don't care too much about high CRI.

>>1483862
Actually scratch that, looks like it is for photopic vision after all. I suppose whites are so bad due to producing a bunch of light far away from the centre of the luminosity function.

>>1483858
>Especially considering the only thing those people ever have to complain about is the name.
> pretending to know about cars despite butchering your jeep
> stating that you're only here to shitpost and aren't actually interested in what others here have to contribute
> using /sqt/ and most tool threads as your personal blogs to post about your cheap shit tools
> outing yourself as the sort of faggot that would walk onto someones property and take shit because, in YOUR opinion, it is better in your possession than where it is
> stating it is too hard to remove a trip to participate in a COMPLETELY ANONYMOUS board, despite rotating regularly through several different trips

Nope, nothing to complain about at all.

>>1483862
Just stopped at Wally World and they had these little power banks for $5. Logical thing for me to do would be to run the lights straight off the power bank so I avoid the whole unprotected 18650 thing and charging them off of a USB cord with alligator clips on the end.

But the mad scientist in me has another idea- I could rip out whatever protection circuitry is in the little power bank and attach that (plus the micro USB charging input) to the 18650 on the fixture.

Update- I just plugged this new power bank into the lights, it blinks the LEDs 3 times and shuts off. What the hell is that? This older square one runs them fine.

>>1483884
Probably over-current alert, it might be a 1A one only, or maybe even less.

>>1483885
That’s what I thought. But the power bank that runs it says 1A as well, so they should both be the same. Maybe the old one has a little more balls to it.

Welp since the new one probably won’t power it, I took apart the old one and I’ll sacrafice that. Quickly learned that there’s one tiny piece of tape separating the - tab from the + metal case of the battery. If that tab gets moved just a hair, it shorts the fuck out. That’s safe, especially considering these power banks bounce around in pockets and purses all day. Sit on that thing the wrong way when it’s in your pocket and you will have a fire in your pants.

Dude, I absolutely love the Philips Hue color bulbs. I love how I can make my house the ugliest shade of yellow using Alexa. XD

>>1483882
>pretending to know about cars
Meh, my best car advice is “Youtube!”

>only here to shitpost
Do you know where you are?

>/sqt/ and tool threads
Did I not ask a lot of stupid questions in /sqt/? Oh, and I just got the Snappy dealer’s business card yesterday, that is dangerous. How is your collection of Proto by Stanley going?

>stealing ladders
Nigger, I was only going to take it if the house was vacant. I can grab the thing without ever stepping over the property line. If the old man didn’t move out literally 3 hours before the new people showed up, two of my neighbors were going to grab it if I didn’t get it first. I might just ask the new neighbors if they’re ever going to use it, and then I might try and fuck the mom because she’s really cute and latina. She’s got a total chad husband but I got a charm with latinas and I think I could get it. Was talking to her one day when she was working outside and she takes off her shirt while were talking and is standing there in a sports bra lookin real good.

>muh anonymous
I know, /b/ used to be good.

>>1483885
>>1483889
Weak... so that older power bank worked fine while the new one flashed 3 times. I open up the old one and take out the circuit board. 18650 to the circuit board, then out to the light. While it worked in the power bank hooked up to the little square Li-Ion, now on this 18650 it flashes once and shuts off.

I suppose I could still use it to charge the battery safely. 5V micro USB goes into it and it sends 4.2V back to the 18650.

>>1483898
Ok, now I have the charging cord plugged in. Try to turn it on, it flashes one like when it’s just on battery, but after that the lights stay on really dim.

How many damn amps could those little LEDs pull? I’m gonna break out the clamp meter.

>>1483903
This is the 18650 straight to the lights, no circuit thing in place. Battery pack claims 1A output, but maybe that is too close. Otherwise the clamp meter may not be super accurate with low DC amps (something about clamp meters being more sensitive with DC amps compared to reading AC), or does resistance factor in or something else I’m missing?

>>1483907
DC amp-clamps are pretty shit in general, best to just use a shunt in the circuit somewhere. And just putting the arbitrary ~3.7V across the LEDs is a pretty bad idea, since if the voltage is too high it could blow the LEDs (which is highly possible if there's no resistors in series with them) and if the voltage is too low then you'll get it too dim. I'd recommend getting a seperate charging and protection board, plus a variable constant-current switching regulator to power each set of LEDs. If they have no resistor/a removable resistor that is. If the resistor is stuck there then just give it a constant voltage that it's designed for and you'll be fine. The boards I'm talking about are like 50c online, you'll not regret anything but the shipping time.

>>1483909
This is why I wanted to run it through the board from the power bank. That should give me a consistent 5V, right? Plus it will be safer charging them than running a 5V USB plug to alligator clamps straight to the battery. With that board in there it’s sending 4.2V to the battery and I’m guessing it will shut off when it’s full,

The 18650 seems to power the little LEDs fine. So even if I only use the power bank board for charging, it should be ok for this fire hazard. Anyway the original cheap blue lights had nothing but these two little resistors. Those lights have a small flashlight feature and the larger light strip. I should probably do my research because I’m assuming those turn the ~4.5V from the 3xAAAs into whatever voltage each light requires, one resistor for the bigger strip and another for the smaller flashlight. Pic related shows the original blue light plus front and back from the switches in them.

Fwiw I’m also running them through that switch from one of those cheap aluminum LED flashlights so maybe that has something inside. I should see what the voltage is after the switch, I never even thought of that.

And I’ll keep what you said about the 50¢ things in mind if I ever want to make one that is more than just a fire hazard.

>>1483918
Yes, using the original board will give you all the protection circuitry, but it's only useful if you can run the LEDs properly at 5V. And those charging boards don't just send 4.2V to the battery like a car's alternator sends 14V, they have a highly optimised charging setup that mostly uses active current limiting, which changes as the cell voltage changes. This is why charging a Li-ion with a benchtop power supply is a bad idea unless you know what you're doing. Discharging such a cell without a going through a similar protection board is also a bad idea since the cells have a minimum voltage that going below will cause the cell near-irreparable damage, and a maximum current that going above will also not be good for the cell.

That big resistor there is definitely a dropper resistor. If you removed it and ran the thing with a constant-current regulated board it would run more efficiently, but there's nothing much wrong with how it's running at the moment. That is, if it was meant to run off the voltage you're feeding it. Same applies to the rest of the LEDs.

If you do go the more professional route, I'd buy a proper COB instead of salvaging one, you can get some damn bright ones for cheap, especially the driverless ones you solder right into mains.

>>1483909
>>1483918
Just measured, there’s definitely a resistor or whatever inside the green switch from the flashlight. 3.9V goes into the switch, only getting 2.8V out of it. The LEDs all run fine whether they get the 3.9V or 2.8V but I haven’t left it on too long with either.

Switches from the blue lights, tested the output from both sides and it’s 3.9V on both of them. So maybe the middle round light from the green the flashlight isn’t supposed to be run at the full ~4.5V from 3xAAAs, but the other 4 are made to run on ~4.5V.

>>1483925
Ahh the discharge thing is something I forgot about. Because even if I can get the power bank board to charge the 18650 properly, that overcurrent protection is stopping me from powering the LEDs through it and I would have to wire them straight to the battery.

I guess the one upside is the board has these blue lights that tell you how much juice is left. So I could hit the little button and make sure I don’t go down to one light to prevent discharging it too far. But if I accidentally leave it on, I’ll probably kill the battery.

>>1483928
If you have an op-amp or comparator, a MOSFET, and a trimpot lying about you could make a little undervoltage protection circuit. Preferably a comparator.

If you have more than ~3V across a single LED then you're probably frying the thing, I'm guessing that the 3.9V was across the resistor too? Oh and by reading the resistance of that resistor (1.5Ω) you can measure the voltage across it and divide it by this resistance to get the current flowing through it, which beats using an amp clamp any day. Though it will drift a bit thanks to the heat it will be dissipating.

>>1483934
Hmm ok. I think I’m gonna stick that board in for now so I can get safer charging and have a battery meter to keep an eye on so I won’t discharge it too far. Battery will still be wired straight to the light, but + is through that switch and it looks like it’s only getting ~3V after the switch so there must be something lowering the volatage in there?

But still it seems that those original blue lights are getting ~4.5v to the LEDs because there’s nothing in there besides that little switch between the 3xAAA’s and the lights.

I want to put together a kit for my friend so that she can make led lights (fairy lights is what they are called in my country) they are basically christmas lights. Where could i find information on designing and making these kind of lights, i am interested in anything from simple battery powered circuits to computer controlled flashy stuff.

>>1483951
Stuck some magnets on the bottom. Jammed it full of hot glue all over. Looks like hell, but she works.

>>1483999
Adafruit, Instructables, and Makezine will have plenty of LED lighting projects. But if you want LEDs in a string you'll either be soldering a lot of LEDs tediously to lengths of wire, or you'll have a ready-made length of wire with LEDs already on it, which might not make for good projects. But if you're willing to go the computer control route (or the old-school 555 timer + filters route) then you could make a fairly decent project building such a circuit. In that case if you want it to be a polished and fun kit that doesn't require design revisions it would be somewhat important to have custom PCBs, but if your friend is fine with perfboard then there's nothing particularly wrong with that, nor is there in keeping the whole project on a breadboard and letting them disassemble it after use. Good luck!

>>1481755
anyone else notice the trend of using a darker color temperature in public bathrooms? Have you ever looked closely at the cleanliness of those bathrooms... absolutely disgusting most of the time.

>>1481755
Wife wants makeup vanity table thing. Cannot figure out best lighting.

They say natural sunlight.

Use mirrors from behind a curtain and run diffused lenses between bulbs for night time?

Wtf bulbs also. Shit is pissing me off with all the conflicting info online

>>1481769
That is so fucking gay as aids. Find a way around it. Use 3 seperate leds. Use only a combo of 2 of RGB and put 2 or 3 seperate moduals in for same effect. Fuck thos cocksuckers bro its a lightbulb.

Kicker patented the square subwoofer and i just bought a fucking 22" mtx jackhammer to break glass

When there is a will there is a way aint just a cheesy gimmick. It's directions on how to live your life.

If u got a fake email drop it. My bro is an attorney and knows some pretty fucking reputable lawfags.

Might could work something out. Help us with lighting for "tomatoe plants" and we could try and find a work around

>>1484092
they're right, sunlight generally has a high CRI. LED or fluoro lamps with a CRI of 90 or above are a good second choice and available 24/7 but may be expensive

>>1481755
Need/want led or fiber optic motion activated lights for on top of base boards. Need non conspicuous and only night time on.

Thoughts?

>>1482630
3rd world shitholes ran by religion of peace dont count

>>1483534
My dad did it. Fucking balls awesome. Night and day difference. Nothing beats natural light so windows are goat

Them old florecents take forever to kick on and suck aids.

The only thing they are good for is lightaber battles

>>1483884
Bangood has 18650 battery brick cases shipped for like 6 bucks. Pretty badass. Dual usb ports. 1 is 2amp. Push button for on off and light up display battery %. Case comes unclosed and its just 2 small Philips to steal the whole circuitry. Bonus its now an 18650 battery holder like swapping standard remote batteries. Great for balancing and shit or justdemel apart and epoxy dow and atach leads fir individual holding and testing

>>1483862
>>1483864
LPS is the most utilitarian lighting. It outputs 0.5nm of spread and is roughly the most sensitive wavelength of the human eye. Completely designed from the ground up for peak efficiency.
It also doesn't produce any sky glow, and is still used in dark sky areas because of this.
It's truly the best lighting technology for municipal and industrial use, except for the small problems that people bitch about it being orange and it performs poor in object recognition in a driving situation compared to practically any other light (while still being better than no supplemental light).

>>1484097
>just bought a $10,000 USD speaker
Why.

>>1481755
>>Which light bulbs do you like and use around the house: Incandescent, Halogen, CFL, LED
Mixture of all but LED mostly.
>>Which is the comfiest color temperature?
2700k in most rooms, 3000k kitchen.
>>Do you use dimmable light bulbs?
A GU10 LED few yes, most don't seem to last.

>>1484479
555nm is definitely more sensitive, and by a factor of more than 3. But since light is perceived on a logarithmic scale a factor of 3 isn't that big of a deal. The low frequency spread doesn't really mean anything to the human eye, it just makes it really easy to filter out for observatories or night photography. I have no doubt that you could design a green LED-based lighting system that would have a higher luminous efficacy than LPS, but factoring in all the power supplies and such it would be much less cost effective. I'd agree that for municipal and industrial use LPS is about as good as we can expect. Orange and/or yellow is also far more comfy than any other single color, I can't imagine having green streetlights.

>>1483853
It's 15s to edit the page, at least in FF. There are webms floating around, lurk long enough and you may see them.

Compact florescents were a mistake.
I want LEDs that are as bright as and the same color/temp as a beautiful nice interior halogens.
What should I get?

>>1484123
I’m still confused as to why that one battery pack ran them fine off the USB out port when it was all together with the square Li-Ion, but then it flashed at me after I ripped it apart and hooked it up to the 18650.

The wholw thing actually works good though.

>>1484051
Mate, you wait till you see them with blue lights, then you know you're in a rough area.

>dad installed 12v mr16 bulbs throughout my place years ago
>used 20W because that's all the transformers could handle
>over the years several parts went dead and we assumed because of a few dead rats (I live in the country and they seek shelter in winter) that they had chewed through the cables and we didn't want to rip up the carpet and floor boards to find them
>recently my dad bought a villa and it too had 12v lights
>while helping him replace them for LEDs, I learn about the transformers and decide that when I get home I'm going to overhaul the lighting
>get home, find that the transformers are just tucked up in several of the light cavities
>replace broken transformers and swap every 20W halogen with 5W (35W equivalent) LEDs
Holy fuck what a difference. Aside from getting the dead areas fixed, the change from 20W to 35W equivalent was a huge difference. After years of fucking dingy lighting, I can now actually see shit. Before everything used to be a murky yellow and although it's still warm white, it's actually a nice colour now. The first time I switched the lights on in the kitchen after changing them, I just started laughing. Feels fucking good, although now I can actually see all the problems with the place.

>>1484561
Anything 4000-4500k and >90 CRI.

>>1484636
LED and fluorescent lights are usually 1/2 lumens (((equivalent))) compared to incandescents. Comparing 20W vs 17.5W actual equivalent would be reasonable, but it's probably a lot to do with A) the age of the bulbs and B) color temp. I like lower temps for general lighting, but things just look kinda better/vivid with bluer lights. You never know with the shit electrical too, you probably weren't getting full voltage on the originals.

>>1484561
>use one or two bulbs because cheap, fail often, or don't want to light up a room with 300W of light
>switch to CFLs/LEDs, not as bright
>use more or higher "equivalent" bulbs if you can get them to fit
I thought it was obvious

>>1484720
Dunno, from my experience 5W LED/12W CFL somewhat equals to 40W incandescent bulb.

>>1484051
>darker color temperature
what

>>1482771
https://www.waveformlighting.com/tech/what-is-cri-r9-and-why-is-it-important

>>1484865
I stand by what I wrote. I don't care about real colours, not needed for my use case. I'm not sure what were you trying to prove.

>>1484729
Is there a chart or website for these and maybe the lumens for each?

>>1484844
colder blackbody = warmer-looking light = more reds and oranges = less light
Yes it's stupid how "warm whites" are produced by cooler glowing things.

>>1484636
Lighting is heavily underrated and makes a huge difference when done correctly. Seems like people plug in shitty CFLs into every outlet and call it a day when it's much more complex than that.
>>1484865
I knew about CRI but not about CRI R9, thanks for posting this information. Seems like a spectroscope like >>1483790 would come in handy to test different lights with at home.

>>1484920
The problem with the spectroscope is that it's easy to see what color bands are there, but not how bright they are relative to one another. That's why I'm thinking about making some sort of digital sensor that I can calibrate with sunlight. I'd either have a fuckton of different LED, each a different wavelength and use them as photodiodes (not mechanical but low resolution), or have a photodiode on a rotating arm that swings through the split spectrum of a prism to measure the intensity as a function of angle (higher resolution but needs moving parts). Might use 2 or three photodiodes for this one. I think the latter sensor is the way to go, though it won't be portable. Getting an accurate enough rotary encoder also sounds like a pain.

>>1484675
That seems way too blue - I was thinking more like 3000K...

>>1481755
I want to build a superbright light panel for SAD therapy. The cheapest white leds are the Chinese $2/800 lumen bulbs. Can I just tear out the boards and run them off DC?

>>1484969
Are you sure a driverless COB isn't a better way to go? They don't need an external PSU after all and they come in pretty bright assortments. 800lm is pretty suspect for that bulb too. But yes, if you do have one of those it should be easy to run them off DC, provided you're using some form of current limiting.

anyone know of methods to dim an LED without having to purchase expensive dimmable 10v
switches? they cost like $50-100. is there a way to control the purple/gray wires without going this route?

I have tried a table top dimmer switch as an indirect way, but the lowest settings cause it to phase in and out.

>>1484969
yo, fyi
The therapeutic side of superbright lights against SAD come from not only the brightness, but the spectrum of light they emit. Get LEDs that emit the correct wavelengths, else you just made a non-portable and obnoxious flashlight.

>>1484977
>purple and grey wires
What kind of LED are you trying to dim? There are two main modes of dimming, PWM and current varying, with your AC dimmer switches being (mostly) one of the former. A common AC LED bulb will have its own power supply of some kind inside it, the cheapest ones being a simple capacitive dropper with more advanced ones being buck or flyback converters. The latter of which rectifies the input voltage before stepping it down, meaning PWM dimming will have little effect. The capacitive droppers are better with dimmers but their bad waveform isn't too good for the capacitor and could cause current spikes that shorten the lifetime of the LEDs. But some LED lights are a string of 120VAC/240VAC worth of LED forward voltage drops with a rectifier in series, so only need a small current-limiting resistor, this is what the LED string lights in those filament-style glass bulbs are. In this case, a simple TRIAC dimmer should work just fine, if they lack a filtration capacitor that is.

If you have the ones with a proper switching regulator, then it should be possible to modify the PSU to change the output voltage with only a little bit of soldering. They will likely already have feedback from the output into the input through some sort of amplification or attenuation stage, so you just need to change the gain of this stage by replacing a resistor or two with a potentiometer. This is a form of current-regulated dimming, and has the benefit of not flickering when you move your eyes quickly.

If you have a FET lying about you could probably just put this in parallel with the LEDs to short the constant current to ground (this will waste little power since the resistance of the FET when on is very low and P = I^2*R), but this requires a proper current-limited supply that can go down to very low voltages, not the capacitive dropper sort. Putting a FET in series may also work, provided the PSU can operate safely with an open-circuit load.

>>1484720
Perhaps you don't know what equivalent means.

>>1481769
so is there some secret light bulb black market that I can find cheap rgb bulbs at?

>>1485049
Well it could be equivalent by way of radiometric power or by photometric power.

>>1485053
aliexpress, ebay, gearbest, banggood, etc.

>>1485056
I see. In any case they were noticeably brighter.

Can you goys spoon feed me something?

So I finally learned what voltage drop was last night. I also learned that testing current in a circuit with a multimeter doesn’t mean I shoud touch red probe to red wire and black probe to black wire because that equals sparks and blown fuses.

Those little blue LED lights I have been fucking with, just probing around at stuff, it’s very basic. I think the larger light doesn’t even have a damn resistor but the small one does.

So it’s 3x the shittiest possible AAA batteries putting out 4.0V. For the small light, the resistor tests 1.5ohms, and I get 2.8V after the resistor. So in V=IR, is V the voltage drop (1.2V)? And would that mean the resistor is limiting the current? So V/R=I which means the resistor is only allowing 0.8A to run to the LED?

Where did I fuck up here? Everybody talks about the water analogy and the laws, but nobody uses real numbers to explain it so it’s confusing me.

>>1485011

led light strips with a driver. it comes with its own power driver.

>>1485129
Diode(or LED) current VS voltage isn't linear like a resistor.
It has an internal voltage that has to be overcome before any current starts flowing, then it's almost a short
An equivalant circuit would be an ideal diode, a battery and a small resistor

>I get 2.8V after the resistor.
If you mean across the LED, it's the LED forward voltage and it will change little with changes in current. See forward bias region in pic

Calc like this:
Vapplied = 4V
Vled = 2.8V
R = 1.5 ohms

Off the top (4V) subtract the LED voltage (2.8V) to get the Resistor voltage
Vr = Va - Vled
Vr = 4V - 2.8V = 1.2V

Then use ohms law to find current
I = V/R = 1.2/1.5 = 0.8A

or use ohms law to find the R value to limit LED current
R = 1.2V / Iled

>water analogy
A diode is like a valve that only opens once a certain pressure is reached

>>1485137
Ahh cool that helps. Like I said, I tried to research it but everybody gives equations but no examples with real numbers.

Basically with those little cheap lights where you don’t have a spec sheet telling you the voltage and max current of the LEDs, I was trying to figure out how to find the current if I know the voltage.

Maybe I’ll poke around more when I get home. I can read this shit 100 times and not understand it, or I can do a tangible test once and it all makes sense. I guess that’s why I only lasted a semester into mechanical engineering. CAD was cool but I wanted to design grinders and bongs while my nerdy work partner wanted to do some shitty toy car.

>>1485137
Oh and I saved that equation last night and it helped. But the one thing that had me confused was this- in all of the stuff I read, nobody mentioned V in Ohm’s law as voltage drop. I assumed it was the voltage from the power source and nothing made sense using those numbers.

>>1484117
>Americans calling other countries 3rd world shitholes
topest of keks be upon him

>>1485134
They're strips with resistors on them, right? Then it's a trivial matter to add a PWM FET on the lines coming out of the PSU to switch them on and off at whatever frequency floats your boat. You could also add a current shunt to each and a (probably heat sinked) FET to linearly regulate them with current feedback, though if you want to control them digitally the PWM is far easier.

>>1485160
There is an equation to be followed, the Shockley diode equation, but it's a little arbitrary and you're not going to find its coefficients just by looking on the datasheet. Basically all you need to know is that it's an exponential that crosses through 0,0, has a very small maximum reverse voltage (ignoring breakdown), goes vertical really quickly, and drifts with temperature. Understanding thermal runaway will help, and that the forward voltage is just an arbitrary value we assign to an LED to ensure it doesn't have too much current flowing through it.

>>1485161
>nobody mentioned V in Ohm’s law as voltage drop.
voltage is always a 'drop', measured between two points. thats why eggheads don't say voltage they say potential difference, its a drop, a difference between two points like measuring with a ruler.
the 'resistance' of an led from ohms law is the equivalent resistance at that operating point (it gets tricky because leds (and resistors!) change with temperature), its the 'drop' because its the potential difference between the two leads of the component.

check out kirchoffs laws get your head around how voltage and current works, basically voltages add in series and match in parallel, current is the opposite way around.

>>1485327
>>1485334
I need to grasp Ohm’s law first. Finally home and got the doggos fed and house cleaned, so now I can poke around more and try to make sense of things.

Spent $11 at the ol’ Harbour Freighte. Saw this one with a dimmer switch in one of their emails so I grabbed it for $4 with the coupon, gonna see what that switch is all about. That red light has a fairly strong magent on the base, had a coupon to snatch that and see whay those 6 little LEDs are about and then got another blue guy for free.

>>1485415
>I need to grasp Ohm’s law first.
no
kirchoffs laws describe how voltage and current behave
then ohms law introduces resistance
dont run before you can walk.

you are muddying the waters with leds,
usually start with power source and resistor, learn ohms law then parallel/series and kirchoff.

but you going on with led we are already series circuits so we need to understand how voltages in a series circuit sum and currents stay the same and sum to 0 in parallel circuit to understand the resistor thing.

>>1481755
I've gotten to a point where I can't stand the warmer end of the spectrum. 6000k high CRI is it for me.

Ok so I'm thinking of having a ~20W green LED COB surrounded by 20-30 1W red LEDs in a series ring with individual cc dimmers, so I get nice warm yellow-orange light but edgy red shadows on things.
Thoughts? I'd cobble the buck converter together myself since it could use a common oscillator (and the zener rail, etc.) for both lines. Would go for a comparator oscillator based ~30kHz constant duty-cycle bang-bang buck converter because I'm a shitlord. I could add some blue lights as well if I really feel like it

>>1486008
Actually all the green COBs look to be green via phosphors, not by bandgap. Anyone know how much blue those let through?

So do you guys know f.lux or redshift? What is a reasonably priced solution that lets you have a bulb acting like those programs? It has to be exclusively WIRED and survive a black out

>>1486052
>solution
probably isn't one. otoh there are color-temperature cool+warm LED strips and "smart" PWM controllers. just add a lolduino and a source of time/date, mix with a bit of code, and you're cookin'

>>1486052
RGB bulb or something else? I'd get some arrangement of high-CRI warm and cool LEDs (2000K and 8000K or so), throw an ATtiny that syncs via WWVB radio to the time of day in there to control constant-current feedback to a buck/flyback converter for each colour. Other time sync methods are available, such as GPS, wifi, GSM, and a host of other radio stations alongside WWVB ranging from the low kHz to GHz. Keeping time via the mains frequency is also perfectly valid and wouldn't require an MCU, though of course this doesn't work with your power outage situation. Even a light sensor aimed at a window or a solar-powered one strapped to a street lamp that communicates through one of those 80c 433MHz modules could work fine.

Personally the one I've been interested in as of late is using an accelerometer to detect the slight shifts of gravity as the Earth revolves with relation to the sun; the perceived acceleration will be slightly higher with the sun above than with the sun below, which can be used to tell the time of day. Naturally the shaking of the house by people and the pull of the moon will be far more significant, but a healthy combination of both analog and digital filtering would fix this, and a stationary light socket is about the only situation where this is a good idea. I was considering it for a positioning system (that would use programmed astronomical data to tell where on the planet you are based on the time-dependant accelerations to the moon and sun and their directions) but it's not very useful to have a positioning system that requires you to be stationary for a significant part of the month.

>>1486060
Wait on second thoughts the gravitational difference might not even be measurable with an accelerometer.

>>1486068
That is to say, a common 3-axis accelerometer module from wherever. Might be able to measure the shifting magnetic field as a function of the sun's solar wind if there is enough accuracy to measure acceleration though.

>>1486060
Classic 4chins.

>>1482493
That's bloody insane for just lighting. Why aren't there any fucking alternatives? Really want to stick in some strip RGB Google home lights into my false ceiling but goddamn hue is the only option and costs a bomb

>>1486116
You mean my autism?

>>1483534
yeah I got these for my parents for christmas. My father put them up in the garage and the barn we process maple syrup in. The garage was an absolute gamechanger and he ended up getting two more. The sugar shack it messed up the color grading on the syrup so that one ended up in the house. I think I got 4 for $115 on Amazon. For that price the result was outstanding

>>1481755 Is there any 4-8 channel wifi relay with native homekit-google assistant support? Din rail mount and built in daily-weekly timer would be nice too.

>>1481755
Most of what I have is filament LED and LED spots. Used to be really into incandescent bulbs but the power consumption is ridiculous. Still screw in pic related above the dinner table some times when I really want to see shit and keep a plate of food hot at the same time

>>1482317
Really consider that gore? I've replaced hundreds of florescent bulbs and those ballasts are a pain in the ass espically when ya gotta install a new ballast without cutting power to the whole circuit

>>1487261
>Working on live circuits
Which 3rd World shithole do you live in?

>>1486157
>Why aren't there any fucking alternatives

Philips patented the RGB lightbulb and sues anybody making a product that competes with Hue.

https://www.signify.com/global/about/intellectual-property/news/20170922-philips-lighting-files-itc-patent-infringement-action-against-seven-companies

>>1487998
Thank god for buying copied shit from the chinks for a fraction of the price. IPs are overrated.

Plot twist:
>>1483534
>>1483556
>>1483724
are all the same guy

>>1487998
>Philips patented the RGB lightbulb and sues anybody making a product that competes with Hue.
Not so, Anon.

https://www.theverge.com/circuitbreaker/2017/10/3/16407814/ikea-tradfri-rgb-color-bulbs-price-date

>>1488156
thank ikea, for being a source of non-chink chinkshit

>>1488079
When I finally have time to figure out how this all works, I want to take apart this one. It’s pretty bright already, but I think if I could stick two more of those small LED strips into it and replace the 3x AAAs with one or two 18650s, add a USB charging port, and manage to keep it somewhat clean with the same magnetic base, it would be sweet.

Too busy though. Just had to spend the weekend with the grill for the anniversary and now my boomer neighbor is trying to get me to fix my other boomer neighbor’s pressure washer.

>>1488173
Ugh after all the blowjobs and red tide this weekend, I forgot about this thing. I have two bright LED strips I can sacrafice from that one, and the dimmer switch I was attempting to figure out. Would be fun to use the dimmer on my mutant red one so it won’t be overkill when I don’t need 100% power.

>>1485415
Nearly all electronics courses start with ideal amplifiers or battery + resistor + LED, parallel/series maths, and then move on to other circuit stuff.

>>1485415
>>1488173
>>1488174
>they're the same tripfriend

Also I'd heavily advise against using that dimmer for a more powerful LED, it looks like that potentiometer is being used directly as a variable dropper resistor. Each one of the red torch's LEDs look like 1W models, so it's a 6W torch, meaning you can dissipate up to 1.5W with the dimmer in a particular position, and those things do not handle more than 1/2 a watt very well at all. They smoke and their resistance goes up. Go for something like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/gas_jews/32845855679.html
$2 and won't burn your house down. Necessarily.

The pot's quite a nice one though, since it's got the extra two terminals for an on-off switch.

>>1488307
>the pot
Are you talking about the dimmer switch?

I was playing around with it, the first output terminal (which was used on the original light) goes from off-low—->high. The second terminal is off-full power, and the third terminal is off-high—->low. The two LED strips from the light with the dimmer were run in series but the red light with the 6 surface mount LEDs seem to all be run in parallel.

I gotta take a pic when I get home. I originally replaced the regular on-off switch in the red light with that dimmer switch and it seemed to work fine. Then I took 3 of those little LED strops on parallel abd hooked them up to the same switch and it all runs but I think then original LEDs in the red light aren’t as bright.

Maybe the battert can’t put out enough current and it needs another battery hooked up parallel.

>>1488307
Is it worthwhile to run PWM outside the audio range, or is interference/piezo noise not really a problem?

>>1488307
Is there something cheap I could rip one of those PWM’s out of? I have been sacraficing $5 power banks for the USB charging ports, I wouldn’t mind spending another $5 on whatever contains one of those.

That little electronic gadget store could have em too but it’s a pain in the ass to get there before they close at 5pm. I should go in there and ask dude for a $50 grab bag of switches and resistors and whatever I could play with.

>>1488377
Pot = potentiometer = that knob thing. It's wired up a little strangely, so I can't be sure about anything. Namely there's only two wires going to it where usually there would need to be a wire from the other switch contact (the outer two) to one of the potentiometer contacts (the inner 3). Cheap AA batteries are pretty shit, so I wouldn't be surprised at their inability to provide current to some decent LEDs.

>>1488434
I'd say it's worth doing if there's not going to be any other noise. But in a garage/workshop you may not notice it at all. In any case, if you order a PWM module from amazon or wherever (making sure that it works at the right voltage) the frequency will be fixed. Replacing the ceramic capacitors with polyester may help alleviate the noise.

>>1488490
The one I found online was specifically one that could run off 3V, all the more common (and cheaper) ones run off 5V, 12V, etc. Making your own circuit is pretty simple if you have a 555 and a power transistor and some passives lying about, pic related. Perfboard or something similar to solder onto is preferred. But that too only works at 5V or higher unless you have a CMOS 555 timer.

Pretty much everything with a dimmer in it will either run off mains (TRIAC dimmer) or otherwise be a high power device (unlike that light switch thing), so I'd say your best bet would be a high-power (>2W) headlamp with multiple power settings. If you're lucky it will contain a simple standalone PWM dimmer, though some might instead contain a PWM dimmer with battery management onboard. It looks like https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yn1wk6GbvRA is of the latter category, and it's also 5.5GPB. The problem being, higher power models tend to run lithium ion batteries instead of AAs, and so require protection circuitry. Something like https://www.amazon.com/uniquegoods-1803BKW-Controller-Adjustable-Driver/dp/B00RYKR83Q/ would probably suit your purposes fine for $7, or any other "3V dimmer".

>>1488434
I haven't experienced a major problem with running at 250Hz. ham radio operators running PWM lights in their own shack might or might not have a problem but it's probably nothing that some shielding and ferrites couldn't fix

>>1488716
>ceramic caps
>polyester
>not a microcontroller
please stop

>>1488927
Ceramics make more noise than polyesters, so with a medium-to-high frequency oscillator you can get away with a low-capacitance variety, otherwise ceramics are typically the default for mid-to-low capacitance in diy through-hole circuits. And a microcontroller? For dimming lights? Why would you ever do that unless you were trying to get some sort of IOT functionality?

>>1488947
>a microcontroller
yes, a microcontroller, for dimming lights. design freedom:
>program is trivial: setup hw, do A/D conversion, copy value to PWM, GOTO 20
>can use buttons instead of a pot
>easy to introduce a gamma LUT if desired
>can receive IR or RF commands with little extra hardware
>easy to introduce timed effects, on/off fades, etc. Pic related
and cost:
>fewer BOM lines, fewer component placements
>smaller board
>no on-line calibration
>micros are 3 cents each in qty 10
>total product cost about $2
>https://www.aliexpress.com/item/I-have-no-idea-why-I-am-indirectly-helping-out-a-tripfag/32887948280.html
then again, what makes sense in qty 10000 may not make sense in qty 1

>>1488957
>tfw that reply wasn’t even to me

>>1488716
That switch was funky, like I said. Those 3 terminals in the middle are all outputs. The first one goes from low to high as you turn the switch. The second one goes from off, pass the detent, to 100% power and then dims more as you turn the switch. The third little tab is just off or 100% power, no dimming.

And maybe I will rip open this headlamp I have. The ol’ Princeton Tec got a crack on the tab that holds the battery compartment closed so I need to get a new one. That one has 4 settings- White Hi-Lo and Red Hi-Lo.

The original light the dimmer switch came off of was pretty bright though.

>>1488957
I saw those dimmers too, but they're only for 5V or higher. I'm assuming he's got a system on ~3V, or at least the one with the AA batteries is.

>>1488973
Originally ran off 3x AAAs but will probably run it off 18650s eventually so ~4V.

This is all trial and error at this point so idgaf if I explode a battery or two. Only way to really learn is by causing a small fire or two.

>>1488969
Update, the dimmer switch never seems to go full power. I still get 3ohm resistance when it’s at 100% so the LED’s aren’t at bright as straight from the battery.

First terminal output thing gives me OL-120ohm->3ohm as I turn it. Middle terminal gives me OL when off, then 2ohm no matter where the switch is. 3rd terminal gives off-2ohm->100ohm at max.

I want to find me one of those PWMs. Those LEDs can definitely run off the full 4.0V.

>>1489251
Would this use PWM? Would that work for 4V?

>>1489285
Nvm, I believe that’s a MOSFET, and from my terrible reading comprehension of Wikipedia, I’m guessing there isn’t enough power from one 18650 to make the bridge in there. Switch fully depressed and I only get 4.0mV out the other side.

>>1489285
Hmm...

>>1489295
I’m confused, if it were PWM, wouldn’t I still get ~3.9V on the multimeter even when the switch is partially depressed? Wouldn’t it just be a change in Hz with constant voltage?

>>1489285
Took the thing apart and here is the board. It assploded on me so not sure where this stuff goes. I believe I found where the + and - go in/out, but not sure how it switches voltage. I’m getting 0.5V at the output. Looks like originally this copper V thing on the plunger slid along that black line on the board to determine the output. But I’m getting 0.53V without touching that black strip, and then if I slide along (just the copper V with notthing connected) it goes down to like 0.20V as I go further. Tried + to copper V and got smoke. Tried - and got 0.00.

>>1489304
Depends on the DMM, probably not in either case. That's what a scope is for. But yes, drill triggers will use PWM.

>>1489006
If you run it off the 5V USB output of one of those power banks you can get an uber cheap PWM dimmer for 5V. That drill chuck probably won't like running at 3.7±0.5V.

>>1489407
It actually worked >>1489295 until I tore it all apart and everything went missing.

Was trying to figure out what everything does in that trigger but then I tore it apart more. It’s more complicated because it had the reverse switch installed which messed with me. There was a big black thing, resistor? anyway it was outside of the circuit board and looked like it had + going in one end and - going in the other so I have no fucking clue what it did.

So the black strip had the little copper thing that slides up and down it, the wiper? What is connected to that? + or -?

And on the DMM, the Hz measurement wouldn’t catch the pluses? Or that’s just for AC?

Maybe I’ll put a scope on the shopping list if I can figure this stuff out.

>>1489421
Get a cheapo DSO138, it will tell you what you need. Pretty shit for <µV or >100kHz measurements though.

>>1489006
>>1489251
>>1489285
>>1489295
>>1489304
>>1489399
>>1489421
So, is this you personal blog, or.....

>>1489496
>trip
What do you expect, just filter and forget.

>>1489496
Bruh, you should check out my Xanga.

>>1489492
Is that a scope? Tried posting in a multimeter thread to see if anybody here used one of those handheld scopes that is only slightly larger than a multimeter but didn’t get much of a response.

Aren’t there some decent bench ones for only like $300?

>>1489544
I have a DSO112 and a DSO203. the former is one channel, the latter is 2 + logic-level (doesn't included logic analysis). Both have signal generators: former square only, second a blocky square, sine, both triangle and sawtooth I think?

The more annoying thing is technically I think both support live USB oscoping, but the DSO112 uses something slightly different than the 110 so it's not compatible with the original software, and I don't think there's anything for the 203. The 112 uses a usb-to-serial adapter, so I think with a little work you could dump data yourself. Both support saving to csv, and I think the 203 supports saving to pictures too. 112 requires terminal usb crap, 203 uses mass storage device.

I wouldn't recommend either honestly. For the same price as the latter, you can get a 2-channel USB oscope with open-source software and much higher bandwidth. These things are decent portable devices, but their compatibility/logging is poor. One thing worth nothing, the DSO112 has 50V inherent scoping, and 500V on 10x - that is not common. I wonder if one of the USB ones is compatible with the Raspberry Pi. Would be nice making a dedicated high-speed oscope box.

>Go to walmart
>Only sell LEDs
I guess you have to get the good shit online. Plebs get the efficient shitty lighting.

>>1491036
>he doesn't into high-CRI
cucked by your power bill

>>1491199
Show me some high-CRI high CRI R9 LEDs otherwise it's halogens for me.

>>1491255
Oh I see what you mean. I'm an RGB boy anyway so good luck with that.