/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1472324
Where is the new Prusament filament made?
>>1471306

>>1472352

The Czech Republic, where everything from Prusa is made.

>>1472324
Pew Pew (with little yellow balls)

Any suggestions for a small FDM machine for fine detail work? I currently have a couple of Crealitys and I'd like to have a dedicated machine set up with a .2 nozzle. Heated bed would be nice but, other than that, I could live with a very small build volume (even as little as 100mm in each dimension would be enough).

>>1472386

Don't know about particular models, but I'd go for something with ultimaker-style kinematics. You really need the moving mass to be as low as possible for detail work.

I'm the anon that was trying to fix his printer from being so fucked. Already got it working perfectly, does anybody have any cool mechanical models that I could print?

>>1472388
Thank you, I was hoping for a little direct drive action for flexibles but I see your point and I'd rather lose that than compromise on detail.

>>1472389

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2734216
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1817180

>>1472402
Thanks a lot anon, I'll print the linear slide for certain but I'm not sure if my skills are adequate for the iris box, I heard it's quite infamous considering it's difficulty.

>>1472407
It's certainly a fucker. While not challenging on the
tolerances, this is a good test of bridging and retraction:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2990070

That way, you can dial those in first, then move on to your extrusion multipliers.

>>1472401

Flexibles aren;t easy to print with, they warp/shrink a lot and the printing speed needs to be veeery slow. If you try to print with a tiny nozzle at speeds like 20mm/s you might be looking at days or weeks to finish something. You're better off casting detailed PLA parts in silicone.

That is not to say that a direct drive doesn't help for having more precise extrusion, but on an ultimaker-style printer you'd need something compact and light like a Titan Aero with a pancake motor.

>>1472412
Thanks, I've played with flexibles and had my dreams dashed. I'd be more happy to leave them by the wayside and stick to fine PLA printing for this machine.

>>1472409
I did see that before, it's certainly a good benchmark, although I still have to dial my prints in for even regular solid objects. I'm getting a tiny bit of waves on my lines, although they're 500% better than before, when I could barely make any shapes before it fucked itself over.

>>1472413

Yeah they're really meant for functional stuff like tyres, gaskets, grips etc., not aesthetics. Since you already have a bunch of printers see what you get with putting a fine nozzle on one of them before getting a new one. Even with "non-ideal" kinematics you can usually get the same results by just printing slower.

What slicers does everyone use?

I'm relatively new to 3d printing and got a Tevo Tornado a while back. I've been using slic3r with the config they ship with it since then but trying around with different temperatures and what not.

Imo slic3r is just one big usability nightmare, but I have no idea how to set up cura or anything else for the Tornado.

>>1472427
I plan to get another printer in any case since the CR-10s' are more or less constantly employed for production anyway. An Ender 3 might be a cheap option to try it out a fine nozzle with sub optimal kinematics. I had briefly considered an MP Mini Delta since that's extremely low flying mass but it's really hard to separate whether the poorer reviews are the result of first timers or a fundamentally poor machine.

Printin' this right now, wish me luck anons.

>>1472430
>slic3r is a usability nightmare
How so? It's been pretty straightforward for me to use.

>>1472433
Is it life size?

>>1472430
Google cura profiles for your printer; you're not the first person on the planet to try this. Download said profile, try out benchmark prints like heat tower and stringing tower and adjust specific settings from there.

>>1472464
Kek I wish, about 1/5th size.

>>1472466
I can only find cura files on facebook, which I don't use, so I can't download them.

>>1472487
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0DkuDHar0sc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-kf_BBATjY&feature=youtu.be

https://tevo-owners.com/showthread.php?tid=35

Zoomers like you are whats wrong with the world today.

>>1472389
Youre not the abrasive asshole with the cardboard printer that demands 3d printing kneel to you and redo everything with machinists feable brains in mind are you?

Still waiting on my pink ranger.

>>1472586
Wow you demanding whore.

>>1472586
>>1472594
I was going to spend more time touching it up a little bit and post it tomorrow. I have had problems with cracking with the roll of pink I have (which is why I don't use it) and I was going to fill some of the cracks along with sanding down the parts that were in contact with the support material. But here you go.

I'm thinking I'll take two more requests and then take a break. I got a couple projects I want to work on and need some print time for them. Same "rules" as before, reference a thingiverse or other hosting site item and I'll print it. If it's too big I'll scale it down. First reply and I'll print it.

Thank you printerbro, she is beautiful. With your permishon i would like to take her out on a date.

>>1472599
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32884

Lewd anime girl anon here. Pretty bad stringing and medium quality overall, but hey, I tried. I'll try calibrating more but in the meantime I think a good sanding can save this print.

I really appreciate feedback if you anons have any to offer.

Final build, pre-final-sanding, assembled. Once again, if you have any feedback or explanations for the print quality, PLEASE give it.

>>1472610
>dat cottage cheese ass

>>1472616
How the fuck do I fix that?
Please help anon.
Is it underextrusion or overextrusion?
Or another problem?

I know only a bad workman blames his tools, but is something wrong with the machine?
Help a fellow anon.

>>1472618
Looks like overextrusion or really sloppy drive belts

>>1472618
>>1472620
Oh, and stringing tends to indicate temps being too high or retract settings aren't high enough

>>1472620
The tightness of the belts would be comparable to a rubber band, they spring right back when pulled. I think it's good belt-wise, so is the other problem over-extrusion?

What about layer height?
That's printed at 60mm and 0.15mm layer height.
Should I lower those values?
Thanks for the advice too anon.

>>1472621
I see. I'm at 200 for PLA right now, should I try 195?
I'll re-calibrate my extruder too, using a bowden system.

>>1472606
That's boring. Ok I'll print it. Won't be able to start it till tomorrow though.

>>1472625
I thought it was a buttplug.

>>1472610
>>1472612
What printer do you have? It looks like your belts might be fucked up, or you're printing way too fast.

>>1472627
I've got an Anet A8 clone, same parts as regular A8 though, and I know tons of people get good pr8nts with the A8. The belts are snug but the stepper pulleys wobble a tiny bit, could that also xause problems?

>>1472630
Belts that are too tight can cause issues too, it could damage the bearings in the pulleys and make the stepper motor work too hard. What do you mean by "wobble a tiny bit"? Like wobble side to side or it wobbles like the center axis is off center when you spin it? Also make sure all of your gears are dead center.

>>1472630
>>1472633
You should be able to move them by hand and not feel anything at all. Movement should be super smooth without any sensation of vibration or jerky-ness.

>>1472633
The gears sit a bit crooked on the stepper axles, note though not caused by belt tension since they're crooked without belts. Never thought this'd be a big issue though. So I guess
>realign belt gears on stepper
>recalibrate extruder
>check belt tension again
Thanks anon.

>>1472634
I guess they jerk each time a crooked gear hits the most crooked point. By crooked I mean the gears when spinning are wobbling around like a crooked wheel on a car, side to side ish. Is that the cause of my suffering,?

>>1472639
From how you've described it, it sounds like you have some shitty gears. They shouldn't be crooked at all. You might need to replace them. If you have a good camera post a picture of them.

>>1472644
Unfortunately it's about 2AM here but I'll make sure to post one tomorrow. I'll see if I can fix the gears by realigning the tightening bolts but if that doesn't work I'll replace the whole gear.

The belts tightness wise feel like a low guitar string, they jiggle when flicked for about 1.5s and settle down, don't really feel like the steppers are struggling at all.

Dumb question: I know a lot of SLA printers have "post-processing kits", which from what I understand swirl the part in alcohol for a while then expose it to UV light. I've seen people use nail UV curing lights to post-cure their prints. I'm a cheap bastard who likes doing things his own way, so I'd probably rig my own alcohol bath. However, I live in an area of the US that probably gets *the* most UV exposure throughout the year (the only area which has a 10/11 level, violet). Would just sticking my print into direct sunlight work without altering the qualities of it? I know certain (two-component) resins can "over-cure" and yellow/turn brittle but have no idea about photoresins.

>>1472674
Dropping the print into a jar of water in sunlight is an accepted practice.
UV lights offer more control over curing.

>>1472487
So create a throwaway account with fake personal info and get them. Stop making excuses.

>>1472352
Right here.
https://www.google.com/maps?oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b&q=Partyz%C3%A1nsk%C3%A1+188/7a,+17000+Praha+7,+Czech+Republic&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiBrPLu2d_dAhWHBywKHWaYAs4Q_AUIDigB
Just 120 kilometers away from me, yet with pricing so high that only burgers from 1200km away can afford any of their products
fucking průša jews

This is really fucking cool though.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E1ZxTCApLrs
I can't wait for chinks to rip it off so i can start using it.
You can even make half your model in pla and half in petg pretty neat

>>1472694
>$25 USD per kilo
>high price
That's only 2-4 more than regular filament, not counting shipping, what are you talking about?

>>1472610
post model thx

>>1472576
No, might me mixing me up with someone else anon. I paid good money for the parts themselves, the only thing I got for cheap were the acrylic plates.

And no, I don't expect the printer to work perfectly but hell after a week of constant calibration I expect it to at least perform half-decently, since the only explanations would be my incompetence (doubt) or a fault with the machine (doubt).

>>1472722
>4
More like 10 stop buying overpriced shit

Do you guys think I can print a gasket for my thermostat on my car using rigid inks rubbery flexible plastic? Will it melt? It gets kind hot on the thermostat but I dunno the temps

Tevo Tornado. vs Ender 3?

>>1472850

How are we supposed to know if you don't know the temps? Measure em...

>>1472792
$20 has long been the "consistently good but nothing special" price point. Anything lower than that carries the risk of mixed plastics, bad filtering (clogs), cracking, high moisture, uneven thickness, etc.

How do I update Slic3r without wrecking all of my settings? The site linked still shows 1.2.9 and looks like it's no longer supported (1.3.0 Coming Q4 2017!")

Scalpel blade holder i printed at work on a Form 2. I definately fucked up a bit, didn't let the alcohol dry completely before curing, and probably cured it for too long which has started to yellow it. Otherwise a decent print. I should get more use out of it, since my boss said i could use it for small personal projects.

>>1472858
Is that supposed to be a question?

>>1472914
Yea, what's wrong with it?

>>1472910
Your settings are in an .ini file. back that shit up

Well shit, my captive mechanism fused in place. I guess my printer can't do 0.2mm of clearance at 220c.

>>1472910
Get yourself Prusa edition Slic3r: https://github.com/prusa3d/Slic3r/releases

When I updated, I just downloaded new slic3r, and then deleted old one. All the settings automatically opened in the new one. You can also keep multiple slic3rs at the same time if you want. But just in case you should export your old settings as .ini files. I don't remember how to do it in old slic3rs, but in the new one it is "Export Config Bundle..."

>>1472850
Use thin cardboard, like the back of a spiral notebook. It'll absorb liquid and swell.

>>1472610
>>1472612
>>1472618
what speed did you print this at? try slowing it down to like ~50mm/s

>>1472940
>>1472951
Thanks lads

>>1472976
60mm/s.
I'm printing more parts at 50mm but for some reason it still looks kind of rough. And it also strings around. Should I lower temps?

Fuck I've been trying to fix this for a while, what on Earth is causing it?

>>1472610
Overextruding - calibrate extruder steps, print empty cube with 2 walls after to slightly adjust flow for each filament. Measure the walls and change flow so wall width is 2x extrusion width.

Too fast - print slower on the acrylic frame, even with the reinforced frame 45mm/s and lower is best for quality. Guys who print minis go even lower to like 20mm/s on better printers.

After all this do a temp test and then a retraction test and tune those. The cooler you can print without losing viscosity and underextruding the better detail you'll get, like 190C for example. See where that gets you and print a cali cat or a calibration cube after.

>>1473061
Oh shit, I never knew that before, thanks so much anon. I never considered a retraction/temp test. Plus I'll probably do a more precise extruder test. Cheers.

>>1473056
Poor camera quality, bad lighting and shaky hands? Or are you talking about the unrecognizable print?

>>1473089
The unrecognizable print anon. Photo is shaky because I'm trying to take a photo mid-print right beside the moving bed with a 2010 phone.

>>1473054
you can try and calibrate temps like this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSOPsRiiOZk

easy to do in repetier host

>>1473094
Thanks a ton anon. I'll report any improvements after I finish all the calibrations. I always thought one should print at a higher temp for better prints but didn't know best detail is achieved at lowest working temperature. I actually lowered it during the current print by just five degrees and I can see the new printed areas are much better.

>>1473056
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/
https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide

>>1473102
Yeah, I already read most of it but I still haven't had any good results. I'll try the temp calibration test and the retraction test too.

This is a PSA. Do NOT try to level your bed with the nozzle at heat like some (stupid) people suggest. It will melt any buildtak based surfaces.

>>1472606
>>1472626
Here's your alien buttplug. I printed two so we can be twinsies.

>>1473150
It's almost October
Print a spoopy!
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:569075
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:569824
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1101793
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2589609

sup kikes, i just got setup for abs because i want to try acetone smoothing, anyone had any experience with this? i tried cold vapour but it was giving me really shit results, after 30 minutes it had only smoothed random patches so I went to hot vapour and it worked better but seems sketchy as fuck
pic is progress so far, abs (0.4mm nozzle, 0.2 layer height, 50mm/s speed), acetone hot vapour smoothed, 1 coat primer
crappy photo makes it look better than it is

>>1473150
Perfection.

>>1473154
>Requests spooky
>Not a skeleton
Do you even scary bro? I think I have some white filament I could use. This will be my last request for a bit, but I'll be back again for a few more afterwards.

>>1473163
looks like an xxx parody prop

I finally got around to putting the new head on the MP mini, and I'm really unsure about it there is a lot of play between the sync and heat break, like the nozzle and break dont move within the actual heating block but the heat break will not tighten into the heat sync
I've got the MP mini V2 and just put the "official" E3D hotend that monoprice sells on it, replacing the shitty Chinese clone it came with

There is a major lack of information about the mini v2 out there, I watched 6 different YouTube videos about replacing the head and every single one was swapping the awful first gen head for a cheap chink clone of the v5

Is it possible to print at .05mm layer height with a .4mm nozzle? I've got something I can't re-orient (supports would be impossible) but I really need to see the detail on it which is lost at even 0.1mm.

>>1473230
Yeah no problem, that's how guys who print minis do it. I print at 0.08 and the only reason I don't go to 0.04 is diminishing returns and time. Just be aware that at that level of detail you're approaching individual steps on your stepper motors and you'll get better results by printing at a multiple of the minimum step height (which is why I chose 0.04 instead of 0.05).

If i need to change fillament can i just send m600, or do i need to warm up the nozzle first?
I basically want to know if m600 heats up the nozzle, and if it won¨t try to rip out the filament cold

>>1472913
Is that Durable resin? Durable just has an off-white color no matter what.

has any of you tried smoothing PLA prints with ABS?
the idee is that abs is dissolved with acetone to smooth the prints. But what if you disolve a lot of ABS in a container with acetone so it becomes something paintable. then apply it with a brush of something on your PLA print to create a protective ABS shell around it and smooth out the print lines.
does this work? or will the ABS just flake off?

>>1473274
Acetone will still soften the PLA to a degree
Acetone will also evaporate very fast, leaving more of a sticky mess of ABS than a candy coating

However, I can't say I've ever seen any one try what you're suggesting so you might as well give it a shot and post results.

It would be more recommended to use epoxy resin. Polyester resin if you have to.

>>1473274
Problem with ABS is that it changes its size quite strongly compared to other plastics, my wild guess is it will develope cracks and flake off quite quickly.

>>1473274
That sounds like a horrible idea. Just use filler primer. It comes in a spray can.

>>1473273
nah its the clear. I printed an earlier prototype in the same resin which has no noticeable yellowing.

>>1473274
It could be possible, but I'd go with filler or primer as well. Dissolved ABS is hard to work with, I've tried. If you have enough acetone and ABS you could try making a jar in which you dip parts, like candy-coated apples, which would work better.

>>1473279
When it's heated, yeah, but when it's dissolved with acetone and dries it shrinks/expands less than when heated/cooled

>>1472612
Is this the Ball Jointed model on thingiverse, or is this your own model?

>>1472359
Ugly color time!

>>1473494
you ever gunna change your design? seeing the same thing over and over is boring, make a double barrel or something, or a pistol version

>>1473496
>you ever gunna change your design?
I have a version for Rival ammo, and Mega ammo.

>>1473510
that's not what I mean, it looks exactly the same as the other one

>>1473510
And a year ago the ones I sold looked like this

>>1473511
There are cosmetic options. But I'm a bit lacking on time to develop a new design from a clean sheet of paper.

>>1473515
>But I'm a bit lacking on time to develop a new design from a clean sheet of paper.
lol but you have time to lurk a chinese image board

So I figured out the symptom. Filament seems to be getting stuck. This time it full on got fucked. Nothing was coming out until I helped push the filament in. I'm in a mayalan 200. Any advice? Thanks.

>>1473613

Three things to check:

1.) Is the extruder motor making a thunk/clicking sound every so often? If so, you have a jam somewhere down the line. If not, check to make sure the filament isn't slipping against the drive wheel. Check the pressure on the roller and that it's secured well to the motor, in that case.

2.) Check the bowden tube that feeds the extruder. Try feeding in filament manually, both through the tube and directly into the extruder. It shouldn't be much more difficult when feeding through the tube. I had an issue with my MP Mini (same printer as yours, different label) where the tube had collapsed slightly over time. This resulted in the tube pinching the filament just enough to cause the extruder motor to skip every so often. I replaced the tube and the problem was solved. To prevent this in the future, I changed the ending gcode to cause the hotend to move from the near side of the gantry (x0) to the far side (x110). This leaves the tube in a more relaxed position at idle.

3.) Clean the nozzle. I just take mine off and torch it until everything's burnt off. Clear out the hole with a fine wire, and blow it clean with compressed air. My room is pretty dusty, between me and a dog, so I recently hassled making a box with a filament wiper and feed tube, rather than just leaving the roll on the side of the machine as was intended. Should eliminated clogs, assuming your filament doesn't have crap in it.

>>1473619

Really appreciate the advice. So whats happening is sort of #1. It is making a clicking noise and it turns back about 40 percent of a turn. If I hold the filament and give slight pressure it does not turn back and continues to extrude filament properly.

I guess I will try and take it apart and see how the roller connects back to the motor.

But I am not understanding why it would move backwards when not under preasure,

>>1473613
>>1473619
>>1473634
Increase nozzle temp

>>1473638
Im printing at 210. I turned it up to 215 but i thought most people print at 200 or 205?

>>1473648
Doesn't matter what most people print at, printers, filaments and their nozzles arn't always the same. What plastic are you printing with?

>>1473684
Ziro. Its from amazon

>>1473692
Not brand, what type lol

>>1473274
>>1473276
>>1473279
>>1473352
>>1473413
im trying this too, see >>1473155
i completed my model, pic related
i ended up having to sand quite a bit too though so not ideal, the model just ended up printing on a raft even though my slicer had it turned off and the raft had ungodly adhesion to the model
kind of shat the bed with the paint job too but it looks fine if you dont look too closely

>>1473743
Definitely seen worse
Good job Anon

>>1473744
thx bby, i think my filament might be bad, it's 'PinRui' brand and i just can't seem to find good settings for it
pic is bridging test, 220 to 260°C and all the bridges look equally shit, the top (220) is bad because adhesion failed

>>1473634

It's the stepper being overloaded. I'll spare the technical details, but, basically, the work in such a way that they receive a pulse and are simply expected to move to the next position. There is no feedback to the controller. If they do not have sufficient torque to actually make the commanded move, they simply jam or slip.

You shouldn't need to mess with the feed mechanism, going off your description. Increasing the hotend temp probably won't work (I'm assuming you're working with PLA, given your previous statements). Check for the pinched tube issue and, failing that, it's probably just dust that got into the nozzle.

Could also be a heat creep issue, but I doubt it. Unless you've been leaving the hotend on without it doing anything for long periods of time, anyway.

>>1473613
Are you the same guy as this:
>>1472610
>>1472612
>>1472618

Because this guy has a whole different set of issues.

On an unrelated note I really hate the limit switch method of finding home; it's inaccurate and the hot end ends up at a different height each time. Just had a print start with a jam because the hotend was pressing into the bed. Cleaned up and restarted and it went to the correct height the second time.

>>1473634
Stepper motors have three sets of windings in three Y shapes. Each coil of the Y gets a different signal per step and the motors poles aligns itself to the poles that form in the Y. On the next step the electrical alignment of the Y rotates 45 degrees to the next set of coils and so on. If the motor is jammed then it can't move until the Y rotates around and the poles come back 'behind' the poles of the motor which causes it to jump back suddenly.

>>1473808
>Stepper motors have three sets of windings in three Y shapes. Each coil of the Y gets a different signal per step and the motors poles aligns itself to the poles that form in the Y. On the next step the electrical alignment of the Y rotates 45 degrees to the next set of coils and so on. If the motor is jammed then it can't move until the Y rotates around and the poles come back 'behind' the poles of the motor which causes it to jump back suddenly.

pure comedy.

>>1473809
Ok ok, it's something like that at least from what I remember when I was playing around with these things 6 years ago. The specific details isn't going to help OP with his jam.

>>1473812
>>1473808
NVM that is more of a description of how a three phase BLDC motor works.

Stepper motors are different.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eyqwLiowZiU

>>1473805
>limit switch method of finding home; it's inaccurate
Maybe slow down the second switch bump or get a new switch
Mine repeats well with 3/$5 switches from ebay. The priming swipe thickness repeats to 0.01mm

>>1473692
>>1473711
Sorry, PLA.

>>1473804
I will look into this. Thank you.

>>1473805
No I am not the same guy.

>>1473542
Ok show us some of your recent creations anon

are new 3d printer idiot proof now?
had some bad experience with a makerbot clone that werks but its a huge bitch

>>1474039
There has been a lot of improvements over the past years and a ton of new features, but they are still far from idiot proof. You can achieve quite much with a little tinkering and trying around, but for most printers you simply still need to learn stuff.

Anon with the fucked printer here. I was trying to fix the printer when it fucking assploded. Waiting for solder to arrive tomorrow so I can repair it.

Furthermore, I've got a chunk of plastic in my eye so I ended up spending a chunk of yesterday in the hospital trying to find it. Turns out I managed to wash it out beforehand. Here's progress on the ball jointed doll, STILL PRE-SANDING.
>>1474039
Read my story.
You make something idiotproof and the world invents a better idiot.

>>1474121
WTF did you do that caused a literal explosion!? ;lue smoking a PSU can get exciting, but I've never heard of anyone wounding themselves through shrapnel.

>>1474121
>Furthermore, I've got a chunk of plastic in my eye so I ended up spending a chunk of yesterday in the hospital trying to find it. Turns out I managed to wash it out beforehand.
Ok now I know why you're having problems. You're fucking retarded.

>>1474140
reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee you cheeky cunt, I'm not retarded just illiterate when it comes to following safety procedures. Plus, I had the safety-squints engaged, so nothing else could've possibly saved me.
>>1474136
No, the plastic in eye was a completely separate incident. That took place when I was working on a model, unrelated to the explosion which was the result of a short between a capacitor positive and the 12v out wire.

complete newfag here
I'm visiting my gfs second world for new years. They own a steelworks factory and i should be able to play around with some things while i'm there
Can I 3d print moulds to fill with stainless steel? what are some cool things i can make if so

>>1472890
I usually try to buy filament around $15/kg, only issue Ive had I caused.

>>1474158
>can I 3D print molds to fill with steel
Absolutely not. Steel melting point is >1500C, most plastics used for printing melt at ~300C or so. What you can do instead is investment casting - print the part you want to recast (plus sprues) and embed it in sand or clay, then do your thing. If anyone at the factory is halfway competent they should be able to help you.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lost-wax_casting

Is there a way to compile malin 1 arduino for this board uno? Let say i dont need heating and controlling temeratures ( maybe except one termistor). So i need 3 steppers xyz endstops and that one temp sensor. I still want to use some pronterface to print.

Petsfang adapter for A8 or other i3 clones with a 46mm center to center x rod distance. Printed on my AM8 with makergeeks carbon fiber PLA, I like the stuff but it's expensive as hell. I got this roll from their monthly box though. Ignore the melted plastic, I modeled the holes too small for the captive nuts so I tried melting them in but I'm just gonna fix and reprint.

>>1474194
You'll need a cncshield for the steppers, but at that point I feel like it would be easier just to buy a cheap 8bit board from China.

>>1474194
I don't think it has enough memory.
You can check marlins boards.h to be sure.
Megas can be found on ebay for <$10.
Mega+ramps+drivers+lcd for $30-$40

>>1474159
About to try the $9 counterfeit cctree PLA I bought from Amazon. Wish me luck

Could someone recommend a good tutorial for Fusion 360?

Solidworks is something of a pain as I try to move to more complex shapes and tutorials I find are very often for other versions that look nothing like the one I have. Its starting to have that photoshop feel of being a great tool but the 20% you need is buried under the 80% you've not ever needed in the years you've used it.

>>1474264
I'm curious how this goes. If it doesn't print well I can honestly say I've gotten decent results from Inland and Solutech for not much more than 10 dollars. Inland does seem to get a more matte finish but tweaking temps can alter that anyway.

>>1474297
Just printed a go-pro wrench. Not bad!
The last two spools I bought were Solutech, the white was OK but the black was brittle and globby. I lost one all-night print when it snapped on the way to the extruder. Hell, this print has black on the bottom because the Solutech snapped when I tried to pull it from the tube.
Besides being brittle, the Solutech tended to leave odd globs of plastic on the outer shell. I tried a bunch of things, but I never got a really good print from the Solutech black (the white seemed perfectly OK, though)
This stuff already sold out at Amazon, so the $10 "totalpack" will be the next experiment when this spool runs low.

>>1473634
i had exactly this a couple days ago, the connector wasnt plugged in properly so only one phase was getting power
i would manually advance it in 0.1mm and it was randomly choosing a direction to turn

the solution was to check that the connector is plugged in and restart the printer

>>1474121
its actually looking pretty not bad
if you jam a clothing on it no one will know

I want to do multi axis because reasons. I can find 5 axis controllers all day erry day, they bore me. Anyone know of some 6+ axis controllers?

>>1474297
You don't really need a tutorial for fusion, it's pretty straight forwards after you understand how it works. Just sketch a shape and extrude it. Everything else comes along naturally.

Is there any reason to use nylon m3 screws instead of steel ones for pre-tapped holes in printed parts? Also for mounting screws that don't protrude, is a countersunk hole a good idea, so should I just stick to a pan head screw and deepen the hole so it sits flush?

How much time does everyone usually spend tweaking settings in the slicer before a print? What settings do you usually alter from print to print (in addition to the obvious like layer height, temp, speed)?
Do you just have a few good print profiles for various quality settings and press go, or is every print different?

I feel like I'm spending more time than I should setting up my prints, and I know I don't have good repeatability.


>>1474415
If you're going to be re-screwing and adjusting the screw a lot nylon might be better so that you don't wear down the hole in the part, otherwise regular stainless screws are usually fine. Even if you're in a pinch a stainless threaded through a nut somewhere will probably work without wearing the part too much.
Countersunk holes (and sometimes) hex shaped nut holes on the other side are usually pretty easy to print, the harder part is getting threads to print right unless (I usually just avoid it and tap it out with a screw after printing).

Because shipping from china takes forever, i want to preorder spare parts to have them ready when something breaks.
What parts in a printer break most often?

>>1474424

When i first get a new roll of filament i spend a whole bunch of time with the settings until i get them right and have them saves to a template in slic3r. Eventually it's just "slice and print" with that template.

The important thing is to change only 1 parameter at a time, otherwise it's hard to tell exactly what you did to make it better or worse.

>>1474438
This is some next level autism.
I literally just set a recommended temperature for the plastic type (PLA, ABS etc) and get flawless prints every time

>>1474441
>changing a setting other than temperature is autism

i looked at heat breaks and those fucking retails jews sell them for $16 or even more.. chinks have them for $.6!!
I could LITERALLY buy 26 (twenty six) all metal heat breaks for the price of one shitty retail teflon one
will the retail jew ever be slain?

Someone explain to me what is correct regarding part fans.

The bed gets hot for sticking the filament to it.
The nozzle gets hot to make the filament soft
Then you need a part fan besides the nozzle to cool the part?

Why is this truncated? Tried googling.

>>1474524
You're actually cooling the filament, not the part. The idea is to get it to glass transition temp as it leaves the nozzle (mainly so it's less likely to warp; also so you can effectively bridge).

I have a long, wide, flat part I want to print. Is it better to print it laying down or standing up?

>>1474593
Laying down is faster, standing up is more detailed

>>1474529
Check the uv lamp and the display.
If you are controlling the display through a PC there might have been a pop up window on the monitor that resulted in no exposure.

If only a single layer was not exposed but the rest did, there should be gunk left on the FEP foil.

>>1474529
>>1474611
Also the surface of the print looks uneven, is that how the model should look like? Otherwise Z-wobble does that.

Alright anons, this is the fucked exploded printer anon here. I've managed to fix my printer after some soldering and new connectors. I've fixed the previous temperature problems and overextrusion problems, increased my retraction distance by 1mm which seemed to fix everything. Just wanted to say thank you to everyone that offered me advice in this thread and how to actually do shit properly instead of blaming the tool for my incompetence.

Just one last tiny thing left to deal with, and that would be whether this extrusion is good. (pic related).

Here is another photo of the extrusion quality, this time on a cube.

>>1474626
Looks like your belts might be loose and you have some Z-wobble

>>1474630
Oh alright, thanks anon, I'll make sure to address those problems. Didn't consider z-wobble yet.

>>1474622
>>1474626
There seem to happen a lot of things at once. You got pressure built up in the nozzle, that causes overextrusion on the corners, then you got very in consistent extrusions, like a direct extruder not using microstepping or uneven tooths. Also your layer height doesnt seem to hit the magic numbers of your lead screw, leading to some layers being squashed a bit.

Problem seriously is, there is so much it can be pretty much everything.

>>1474634
Crap, I didn't think there could be so many factors causing my mediocre print quality. I suppose I'll re-haul everything then. I'll try to see if I can machine new components for the extrusion mechanism since it's quality isn't that good. I'll take a look at the lead screws too.

>>1474635
Could you print this one in vase mode please?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3064821
It is normally one of the easiest things to print and may rule out other interfering things.

>>1474645
Sure anon, but I'm about 80% into a 5 hour print so I'll print it right when I'm done if that's alright.

>>1474646
Take your time.

One last thing: Are you using Octoprint to print by any chance? Or are you printing from SD? Octoprint sometimes can cause troubles and printing inconsistencies through data being transmitted to slow. It is a pain in the ass to figure that one out, when you dont know about it.

>>1474649
Nope, printing from an SD card, but now that I think about it, you may very well be right, since I completely forgot to completely tighten the y-axis lead screws, although I'm still not sure what's causing the overextrusion. I'll rebalance the 2 z-axis motors, re-level the bed and print at 190 with a 0.15mm layer height.

Thanks for all your help anon. In the meantime, here's a courtesy photo of a case.

>>1474593
>>1474602
*Laying down is much much stronger, but vertical surfaces are more detailed.

>>1474692
It is also faster since there's less Z-travel. print a column laying flat and standing up and see for yourself

>>1474611
I use a Wanhao D7. It has it's own internal computer for displaying the layers. There's only a USB port on it for loading print files.

There is gunk in the tub, it's still projecting layers while it's printing in air.

The model should be smooth. I thought maybe the build plate is not tightened well or something so I tightened the screws. It made no difference. I always level the plate before the print as well.

I also strain the resin with disposeable paint filters.

Fucked 3D printer anon here, I'm printing the vase benchmark right now. Here's what I was printing in the meanwhile, a metric dial indicator to better calibrate my steppers.

>>1474751
>printing a device to calibrate your printer
Interesting choice.

>>1474752
I appreciate the fact that you saw the irony of this. Unfortunately my local walmart doesn't carry any dial calipers and ordering one is around 30 bucks, so I just decided to make one(albeit less accurate).

>>1474753

...why are you even trying to do this with calipers?

You should be using a dial indicator.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Dial-Indicator-0-001-Graduation-Travel-Lug-Back-White-Face/121538775373?hash=item1c4c46894d:g:UukAAOSwcj1aME0J:sc:USPSFirstClass!92804!US!-1

I'm assuming, of course, by "calibrate", you mean you're trying to get better dimensional accuracy out of your parts by measuring the actual movement per step. If not, disregard this, I suck cocks, etc.

>>1474751
have you calibrated your steps/printed calibration cubes before?
also, have you calibrated/adjusted your line width?

>>1474764
Yep, calibrated extruder steps/mm, and after fixing belt tension the cubes were perfect.
>>1474760
Oh I understand what you mean, I was actually going to get it to check dimensions of my actual print. Plus for some other machining projects. Just a neat little toy I guess, since I like clockwork mechanisms and mechanical crap. Of course a dial indicator would also be useful, but I mean, why take the easy path, amirite?

I do understand what you mean by a dial indicator though, and I'll also need one to check for Z wobble. Thanks for the link by the way, it looks like a decent option.

Why am I getting these big gaps on my Ender 3? It's supposed to be solid.

>Hatchbox black PLA, bed:60, extruder: 200, fan: 100%, using Cura, 20mm first layer speed, 40mm for the rest

>>1474424
I fiddle with supports, mostly. They are the bane of my existence. I should try something other than Cura, though, as it's supports are stronger than the print.

>>1474407
Yea I found a basic one and have the controls down a little. Its more that I'm having to come from Solidworks where I had the controls down, but the program is a clusterfuck to something simple and clean but of which I don't know its workings. Want to make sure I start with good practices and shortcut this time so I don't form a habit of doing everything the hard way like before.

Got the basics overnight its a really friendly program. But I want to do some more advanced stuff, trying to turn a spline into a 3D shape to make some devil horns for halloween but haven't found something to go off yet. At least not anything that was what I needed anyway.

>>1474805
Look up cosplay 3d printing tutorials. You might have to steal a copy of z-brush though, it's probably a better choice for organic-y costume models like that.

>>1474805
Blender is also a really good program for more organic stuff. The interface is pretty easy to get used to, contrary to what everybody insists, and it's completely free so you can do literally whatever you want with it as well (compared to Maya or Zbrush).

>>1474772
x-axis stepper or belt skipping
loosen off the bolds on the x-axis belt tensioner (the belt with the extruder attached), make the belt good and loose and just manually move the extruder from side to side
gradually tighten the belt until it starts getting harder to move or it starts making more noise then back it off a mm
the belt might feel too loose, don't worry about it, it'll be fine

>>1474821
>contrary to what everybody insists
oh no I insist. Its not bad but its like SketchUp, they threw away what everyone else had done both good and bad and made something different so it controls unlike anything else.

Its okay though I know this can be done in CAD, I've seen it done in Solidworks, but the way to do it there is bonkers and inconsistent between versions. I've really started to hate Solidworks for that because material isn't common for it and every version seems to reinvent the interface. Its basically doing a spline then 3D sketching circles from it and lofting between them. The method of closing them into a solid in solidworks is complete ass though which is where it falls apart.

Seems more simple in Fusion 360, I'm trying to rapid fire learn Fusion's workflow to get to that point. I appreciate everyone's suggestions though.

>>1472433
Why not just get a gf you sad sad man?

>>1474749
I would contact the supplier.

Set up a dry print and record the display with a camera to see whats going on.

>gunk in the tub
It probably misses a single layer, is the sliced print file okay? I had non-manifold stl files that generated layers that were almost empty.

Thats a large cross section, the fep film might not release it properly. Try increasing the tray movement time so the release happens slower.

>>1474823
My searching led me to the same conclusion, thanks for confirming. Hopefully it'll fix my circles coming out as oblong too.

>>1474835
>not printing big tiddy, tiny waist girls to lower your gfs self esteem and have her service your dick in various ways to make up for her shortcomings

Tour of the průša factory, breddy gud
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CLCpNIx3O0M

>>1474930
Stop with the shill Josef

>>1474932
on yeah? let's see YOUR 3d printer factory fag.
oh right, you don't have one.

>>1474941
fucking rekt

>>1472433
Post the stl, i need one too.

Best delta under 600 dollarydoos? I'm tempted by the Anycubic Kossel linear but suspicious of the price.

>>1474941
made me kek irl 2bh

>>1475078
Dont buy a delta.

>>1475086
Is it just a design that doesn't work well when made cheaply? I'm drawn by the promise of quick print speeds.

T-Spline Self Intersect

Anyone get this error in 360 and know how to fix it? Was trying to make the bottom of a shape solid and can't seem to manage it without this issue. Attempts to google resulted in saying its an error in using certain tools but all of them did it. And of course posts link to videos that are gone.

Not sure if more faces or less faces would effect it if at all.

>>1475092
Yeah its fast but there is a lot of mass in the hotend, and you cant beat physics so you will have fast prints but they will look ugly. Also speeds and bowden extruders dont mix well.

>>1475101
Thank you. I did some more reading about cheap deltas and I'll stick to cartesians.

>>1474847
Source?

>>1474998
Here you go my good sir.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3069869

Why won't Cura 3.5 let me use my entire bed?

I have an Ender 3, so it should be able to do 220x220, but this can't even do a 190x190 block.

It has these shadow things extending beyond the dimensions of the object, that it's trying to make fit for some reason.

>>1475222

The shadows are representing the extents of the bed adhesion structure (skirt/brim/raft). Still, your part should fit, from the looks of things. That's happened to me a few times, but it corrected itself once I dragged it around a bit.

Maybe play with the bed adhesion settings if that doesn't work.

>>1474805
>>1474826
Buddy what the fuck are you talking about?

Also blenders interface is based on lightwave 3d which was one of the first rendering and modeling packages ever made and was quite successful before autodesk ruined the industry with a new standard for garbage interfaces.

Also why are you trying to make something so stupid in CAD?

>>1475222
This is what my cura 3.4.1 looks like with skirt turned on, the grey border at the edge of the grid is the clearance needed.

You've got a grey shadow going outside the build area marked by the grid, I'm guessing that's the actual raft and not the dark grey part inside the grid. You need to go into advanced settings and reduce the size of clearance around the part needed for the raft.

I broke off a fan blade on my CR-10s and now it sounds like a swarm of angry bees, what do?

>>1475283
print new one

>>1475136
damn the flat chest that it remixes is way better
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2529936
brb printing now

My Ender 3 has two fans on the extruder, but the smaller one on the side doesn't normally spin unless I go into the settings and manually turn it on. Is this normal?

Also, what is the purpose of each of these fans exactly?

>>1475300
One is used to cool the hotend, it is supposed to be on all the time, this is an essential safety measure. The other one is the part cooling fan, ment to cool down the stuff you print, so it aint too soft when you are printing.

No offense, but i would recommend that you look into general stuff around 3d printers a lot more, you seem to lack the basics.

>>1472324
Monitor stand with room for a 3.5" external HDD in the base
The design was a fail, turns out the monitor stand is oval not circular ;__;
But it still fits well enough to be used and put the 24+ hour print to good use.
On top, a bronze Cromwell and a black LTTB

Printer was a heavily modded Tevo Tarantula with eSUN PLA

>>1475304
Lots of vents for cooling. Back is cut to fit on the bed

>>1475302
I kept trying to search for answers specific to the Ender 3 and wasn't finding shit. I've got it now, thanks.

>>1475222
You don't need to print anything so big. Make it smaller.

>>1475327
usually if you select a pla or similar material profile it will turn the fan on and abs should turn the fan off, fan on abs will fuck your print right up
>>1475306
pre cool, been meaning to find a single board computer with sata so i can build a nas with all the random drives i have lying around

>>1473613
It's me again. Here's a video. Maybe this will help. Thanks.

https://streamable.com/xh2gg

>>1475529
I wonder how long till that bent up sheet metal holding the pneumatic connector will hold. I clearly bends a lot.

>>1475538
Below a certain force limit, some materials can flex indefinitely without breaking

>>1475540
Please tell me more, im teaching material science at a university, i am naturally curious about new things.

>>1475544
I can't find results for any additional ones, but ferrous and titanium alloys have a fatigue limit, while aluminum and (I think) copper don't. If it's under the line, then AFAIK it will not fail.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fatigue_limit

>>1475529
Do you guys think the motor is just fucked?

>>1475557
i dont have a clue, but try you can try testing it out by removing the filament and tell your printer to extrude some filament. then look at how the motor is behaving and try to make it work harder by trying to stop it with your fingers.
it should turn the same while under a load as without load.

>>1475557
Remove the filament and see if that makes it work right

Today i visited a company, the guy there had some proprietary 3Dprinter, totally forgot the name. The heatbed had a PCB ontop full of 1mm diameter holes, around 2-3mm pitch for better adhesion.

What are the pros/cons other than the obvious better adhesion and crap bottom layer quality?

>>1475571
>>1475572
Will try this. Thanks.

>>1475227
Already figured it out and learned Fusion 360 just took a couple afternoons since I was use to Solidworks as I had never touched it before. Also Halloween and you know fun, the purpose of a hobby 3D printer.

And yes Blender is a clusterfuck of a tool. And they've done the same thing as Photoshop adding so much other stuff its a mess. So for me its not just the controls its also the layers of stuff I don't need in the way of what I do. But don't be so sensitive its just software and I'm fairly sure Autodesk didn't shank your parents in an alley making you blender batman.

>>1475529
That looks like normal retraction. A jammed extruder makes a loud click and only shifts backwards. Have you done a retraction test tower to make sure your retraction settings are dialed in?

>>1475606
I havent. Will try this. It's not a normal retraction. It makes a fucked up sound and the print gets jacked. It doesn't make that sound or look the same on the print when it works properly. The video and sound is out of sync probably why it looks normal. I maybe should have mentioned this earlier but it will sometimes run 30 minutes before this happens.

>>1475573
That sounds like a terrible fucking idea vs just using glue or something.

>>1475686
Perf board is common, the Up printers come with it as standard

>>1475573
>crap bottom layer quality
typically you print with a raft and end up with a decent finish on the bottom layer after removing the raft. It's not mirror smooth or anything, but perfectly serviceable.

pic related, a raft

>>1475304
+functional
+huge print
+not easily built with, say, wood
-no flair
-solves no more than one problem
8/10

>>1475755
straight off of google images senpai

>>1475529
no, it's not a normal retraction. it isn't returning to the right point. The retractions from seconds 15 to 19 are correct, but most of the other retractions are wank. There should be one clear point that it backs up to, and then exactly back to where it started.

try increasing the minimum travel between retractions

>>1475297
currently printing bob
what layer height did you use? mine always fucks up on 0.1mm height

>>1475807
I typically go with .06mm height

>>1475810
fug that must take so long to print
i'll try dropping it more, 0.4mm tip, might try a 0.2mm tip and see how it goes

>>1475811
It's does take longer, but I usually just set it to print and go do something else. I would rather have the higher quality print vs having it sooner, depending on what im printing.

>>1475812
im printing at 200% scale, 0.2 layer so hopefully with some acetone it ends up looking decent

>>1475812
it didnt turn out too bad, just need to file some crap off and acetone it and should be ready for paint

Why is my printer having issues with circles? I'm using an Ender 3. Is it the equipment or the settings?

>>1475825
Never mind, I'm an idiot. My Y-axis belt had some slack in it. Tightened it up and now my circles are much better.

>>1475610
>>1475759
That's why I asked about the retraction test tower. Bad retraction settings are known to cause jams, maybe it's too much or too fast for the filament you are using.

>>1473515
You must be really confident in your layer adhesion to be printing 'skeletonized' parts.

>>1475830
>>1475759
Here are my retraction settings. I will both run it with no filament and see if it makes the noise and I will run a retraction test today and report back. Thank you.

For some reason the buttons I'm trying to print are not coming out right. The edges are supposed to be completely straight, but the left side isn't. It was printing them just fine earlier.

>>1475950
The left is how it's supposed to look. The right is the one with the fucked up side.

>>1475540
No be very careful with ultimate statements. esp. Copper and aluminium alloys are prone to twinning (a form of granular/intergranular hardening) which leads to fatigue cracks. The end of the fatigue curve in the wiki article should indicate a catastrophic failure (full crack of the test specimen)

>>1475961
Hence is why I said "some materials" and not "all materials" and linked to an info page in >>1475555 - and specifically mentioned copper and aluminum in that post

>>1475951
>>1475950
looks like it came lose and the left side is moving, have you watched it while printing?

Just finished printing these thing to hang up some stuff. I still have to design a battery bank dock and a hanger for my Vive and Rift

>>1475950
>>1475951
I suggest printing with a brim. This always improves both the edges since you can sand them nicely and improves adhesion

>>1475967
If it was shifting, both sides would be fugged.

>>1475966
Ok?! Not being anal about it but could you please expand on al and cu alloys not having a fatigue limit then? Genuinly curious what you're referring to. Thanks

>>1475975
I'm really not sure what's unclear here. It's written directly in the link. There is a minimum stress for iron, where if it is stressed under that limit, it will not fail no matter how many times it cycles. That limit doesn't exist for aluminum and copper, which WILL fail inevitably, no matter how small the stress. A comparison might be an old vs. a new rubber band where you can keep stretching the new one but the old one breaks if you stretch it a lot.

>>1475972
Have you even ever printed a single print on a 3d printer?

>>1475971
Well shit, my dude. That worked. Thanks.

>>1475875
>>1475830
>>1475759

Issue:
>>1475529


Couldnt even run the retraction test. It immediately went fucky again.

It runs properly with no filament. What does that narrow it down to?

Thanks

>>1475830
I think this was it. So far so good on this retraction test. I lowered the distance from 5mm to 2mm. Im gunna run another print after this to make sure.

So it must have been pulling back too far so it got stuck at the entrance of the extruder or jammed against the side?

Damn this was a bitch to figure out I sure hope this solves it.

Appreciate the help everyone. Fingers crossed this was the issue.

>>1475977
Well all good and true but there's a differnce between a material not having a fatigue limit and not having a fatigue limit under certain conditions (low loads and displacement as you've correctly discribed). Your first reply could be misunderstood as the OP discussed something with with high displacements... So no hard feelings mate.

>>1475994
>there's a differnce between a material not having a fatigue limit and not having a fatigue limit under certain conditions (low loads and displacement

The endurance limit IS the quantification of displacement and loading required before any kind of fatigue failure will begin to develop in a material.

Sometimes you need to stop trying to be doubly smart because you end up looking like an idiot.

>>1476002
Jeez chill. Not everyone on 3dpg has a science background. Stop projecting...

>>1476007
The guy who last responded to you wasn't me, but someone mentioned they're teaching material science ( >>1475544 ) which they really shouldn't be doing in the first place if they don't know what fatigue limit is, and that's who I assumed I was responding to

>>1475969
looks clean, good werk
have an airbrush holder, for some reason cura has been fucking the top surfaces recently, 3.5 just seems to outright crash sometimes too, might try slic3r

>>1475992
Spoke too soon. Still fucked. I'm about to throw this piece of shit and the wall

>>1476071

There's that shitty concentric fill again... Why did they make it default?

>>1476071
I need one of these holders
But i like to keep the tip of my airbrush in water so the paint doesn't dry in the tip

Well that's new

>>1476108
Looks like your slicer skipped a few layers. I don't know the cause but it's usually a one-time thing, stick your GCode into an online viewer to double-check it's not your printer

>>1476117
Close. The spool wound up in itself but recovered and kept going. Decided just to reprint it anyway as the bottom wasn't perfect.

>>1476108
>>1476117
This happens to me with models that aren't 100% print-friendly. Something like bad normals or, most often with me, a shit Boolean operation.

>>1475573
It probably works, but that platform is probably disposable. It's going to get expensive to replace constantly.

I assembled a cheap 3d printer a couple of weeks ago, and have been getting into its maintenance and modding. The design of the hot end was a bit disturbing. Every piece of that thing was made of a different kind of metal, so when it got especially hot all the pieces swell at different rates and got really loose.

>>1475875
cura has more retraction settings than that. You might need to enable more settings

>>1476108
This has happened to me with surfaces in the middle of the model invert. Converting things from STEP, making edits, then converting them to STL doesn't always go smoothly.

>>1475830
I don't use retraction, but I do use combing.

>>1476161
This is going to snap in five seconds if you put any tension on that spring

>>1476166
They have the same dimensions as the spring pegs I've used on other parts for the same assembly and they don't break on those parts so long as the filament isn't underextruding. Also keep in mind that this is a really weak spring (1" length, .023" wire diameter, 1.66lb rate).

>>1476161
>>1476166
What does the spring even do?

This is a revised upper receiver for
>>1472359

>>1476171
>What does the spring even do?
The little hinged piece acts as a catcher's mit and check valve for the little yellow balls. Without this piece the breech wouldn't be able to load the ammo into the barrel one-at-a-time. The ramrod also might be more likely to chew up the top side of the ball just below it in the magazine.
It was also to address a worry of the potential for them to roll into the plunger tube, but the ramrod has been since updated to the point that it's so long that such a situation isn't possible anymore.

>>1476177
Ahh, I thought that was for a nerf (dart) gun.
Still though, last nerf gun I owned was in middle school ish; not very familiar with them.

>>1476180
I have these adaptable for firing regular 1/2" diameter darts, Rival balls, and 3/4" diameter mega darts. But the 1/2" darts shoot at much higher fps and more accuracy.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2376150
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2886104
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2900672

I can print small xy objects fine with my Ender 3. Doesn't matter if they're intricate or tall, but when I try to prevent anything above 100x100, the filament starts getting tangles around the nozzle or something.

Don't know if this is an adhesion issue or what. The print basically looks like a big PLA hairball.

Any idea what this indicates?

>>1476227
Maybe too much heat so it's not sticking. More fan might help.

>>1476227
possibly bed leveling, you might have a spot in the middle that is close enough but if the bed is warped or a corner is low it'll die on larger prints
recommend installing marlin to get mesh leveling, its a pain in the dick to install (who the fuck even uses arduino in the current year) but its worth it

>>1476227
Pretty much all ender 3's have warped beds. Find a happy middle point between all areas of the bed when you do your leveling.

>>1476244
I don't get why people put so much emphasis on bed levelling. I mean, unless you are way out of acceptable levelling, the printer levels itself after 10-20 layers? Sure, there can be adhesion issues and poor quality bottom layers, but bed levelling has nothing to do with issues further along the print, once you get a nice start to them.

>>1476372

>once you get a nice start to them.

Guess what proper bed leveling does.

>>1476372
>Sure, there can be adhesion issues
You mean like the anon with possible adhesion issues that was being replied to?

Appears that you're really replying to
>>1476343
>Pretty much all ender 3's have warped beds

>>1476343
Two friends of mine have Ender's and both their beds are warped.
Now he is going to try to bend or sand it, but it sounds like a really bad idea though.

>>1476343
>>1476400
Yeah, seriously a decent piece of glass can run as low as $5 plus a few binder clips.
So much easier, no need to worry about scratching it up much (*cough buildtak*), plus you get that sweet sweet mirror finish on your bottom layer (or just frost the glass with some sandpaper if that's not your thing).

Only thing glass can't do is flex, but usually parts come off easily. Worst case take the glass sheet off and put it in the freezer for an hour or so and then the thermal diff between the plastic and glass will pop the parts off itself.

The bed's really the only serious issue with the ender 3s. I'd rather a shitty bed than house fires though...

>>1476389
Well, he could easily tell if he has adhesion issues, as the prints are completely loose. In his case he must have extrusion issues or z axis skipping too far ahead after a while of printing. I have noticed, if there are many separate details, like tree supports, too much retraction can cause one layer to skip almost completely and the print continues as a hairball.

>>1476417
Using a glass plate was my recommendation to them.
So much easier

>>1475529
>Filament easily pushes through nozzle so it shouldn't be plugged.
> Retraction lowered did not help.
> Bowden tube does not seem kinked.
> It shouldn't be software since old tested gcodes still fuck up.
>It works fine with no filament.

Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm at a loss of what to try now. Any possibility it could be the filament? Should I take off the nozzle, Torch it and clean with brasso even though its not appearing clogged?

>>1476535
Bad stepper motor. Swap it out with a known good one and post results.

>>1476372
10-20 layers is 2-4mm, which is significant when your entire print is 15mm or less

Hi guys, so my delta printed started doing pic related. Looks like there are oscillation-like shifts in the Z-axis every couple-of millimeters (in addition to some minor Z-hop related zits here and there). I used to have a bad pulley in that printer which I replaced with a good one. I also took extra care to align them and verify that all the motor shafts are straight.

Any ideas? On this particular model the print speed was only about 50 mm/s and the temp was 200 deg C.

In person, it's not as bad as the picture represents, but I set up the lighting conditions to make the problem more apparent. A bit of sanding will get rid of that pattern, but I would rather not have to do so much sanding :(

I was told black pla is harder to print than other colors. This true? Should I avoid it?

>>1476609

No it's fine. I've had more trouble with white actually, as the color accentuates any defects that wouldn't be apparent on black pla.

>>1476552
Are your belts tight? Is your frame rigid?

>>1476609

The only real problem I've had with it is that it doens't seem to stick as well to my (glass) bed. It's not much of a difference and is a non-issue as long as the bed is clean, but it's there. Might even just be that particular roll, as the black I get from another supplier doesn't seem any different from the white.

>>1476535
Upgrade to a geared drive system... unfortunately you need to print it.

Is this a new printer or did it work fine before? Filament jamming in all metal hotend?

>>1476738
It worked before yeah. I can't tell where it's jamming but I assume the hot end

Paging Hippo. Hippo, are you there? Don't need to reply here, but /bant/ wants you!
>>>/bant/6602846

>>1476343
>>1476400
>>1476417
>>1476427
you can fix it with the stock bed but it's a bit of a process
i installed marlin to get mesh leveling, that way you can compensate for warping
the second update is modifying the removable bed, just strip the top bit of plastic off, it shrinks and expands with heat and makes it completely unusable with any material that require a heated bed. underneath is a fibreglass sheet which works fine, just use your normal adhesive that youd use with glass, glue stick works fine

>>1476535
I'd try the atomic pull, measuring the actual diameter of your filament, and then clean your extrusion wheel. It wouldn't be a bad idea to check your bed level, either. Additionally, have you ever adjusted the voltage on your drivers?

>>1476725
I'm using those tiny springs you can get on aliexpress for tensioning the belts, two per belt.
I've replaced the corner pieces with metal ones and bolted everything together using M4 T-nuts, since the frame would be a bit wobbly before.

The one thing that is kind of sketchy is the print head assembly. It has some play and I can wobble it a bit by hand. Though, that would produce much more random patterns on the surface of the print, right?

anyone using octoprint? i need to get the object cancel plugin working with cura, apparently it's now integrated with cura but when i queue a print the plugin doesn't list any objects

not starting another print until i get this shit working, just wasted 4 hours because one part came loose and fucked 2 others because the hot end had lose filant all over it

Shit. My filament fell over

>>1476985
rip
thats one big ass brim, how much adhesion do you need god damn

>>1476990
13mm. I really really!!! Didn't want it to warp, especially since it is a 36 hour print

Anyone here tried printing around something? Was thinking about trying to print a closed case for a ps4game as a birthday present. As in placing the ps4case into the print mid printing and hope the filament won't damage it.

>>1477039
Totally possible; you need to insert a pause into your gcode before the roof starts to print (Simplify lets you insert a pause at layer height, or you can just edit your Gcode directly).

>>1477039
How do you get the case out without damaging it or the print?

Got a $100 gift card to makergeeks for $30 from their monthly box. More raptor PLA for me?

>>1477081
Was well when it still prints the sides I was thinking about just sliding it in? maybe. Would tin foil be enough to keep the plastic cover from the hot filament?

>>1477081
Print in place hinges maybe... but you have a point. What's the benefit of putting the game in while you print?

>>1477108
Making it a bitch to open, we have welded presents rebar-cages and pieces of scrap metal. This would be something new.

>>1476985
Sell it on etsy as art.

>>1476993
oh, abs? fair enough then

>>1477039
You should let it print to the last layer when it is about to print the top, place the game in when you have your printer paused and then continue

>>1472324
Hey /3DPG/, I'm new here so sorry if I'm asking dumb questions. I recently got access to a 3D Printer and already printed some miniatures for DnD off thingiverse, but I want to start making my own stuff. I was thinking of starting with making a sheath for my kitchen knife. Can somebody show me a good tutorial?

>>1477282
If you're looking to learn a program, go for Fusion 360 or Blender, they're both free and robust. If you're looking for a tutorial on how to design a knife sheath, google would be better. The design principles are the same no matter what the program is.

>>1472433
Anon am I going to see you hot gluing this in /gif/?

Also for anyone reading this. I am wanting to get into 3d printing. I have 2 printers I am considering.


>Anet a8
>Ender 3 pro

I am leaning more towards ender 3 pro since it seems to have good community behind it, and seems to recommended quite a bit.

Anyone with ender 3 care to give me their opinion on the printer?

I am wanting to make one of those ikea enclosures for it, would it be ok or is that mainly to help maintain temperature for certain filaments?

>>1477512
Anet A8 has set at least 3 houses on fire by now, steer clear

>>1477039
I usually print stuff hollow and afterwards melt a hole in my print with a soldering iron so I can pour in either resin for strength or plaster for weight (or Rondo for both)

I've been thinking about using a pause to fill my print before it finishes printing and avoid putting giant holes in my models. But it seems really risky considering I'm using ABS and the thermal shock of cold water would likely destroy my print and maybe my glass bed. Also my control board is directly under the bed so a spill of either watery plaster or epoxy resin would be catastrophic

Man, typing that out made it sound like a really shitty idea. Sorry /3dpg/

>>1477544
I'm only getting results for some sports guy and french terms, what's Rondo?

>>1477544
I've used lead weights in cavities with good success

finally got cancel object working, cura is a fat shit, switched to slic3r and it just werks, was easier to setup than cura too, produces better results

now if I see that one of my parts has fallen over I can just cancel that one instead of either building a rats nest of filament or abandoning the entire job

So what kind of stuff do you guys print? Is it useful stuff or mostly decorative?

>>1477533
This. Anet owner, even if they weren't fire hazards OOB they're still reasonably bitchy until mods are in place. Get the Ender.

>>1477548
1:1 mixture of polyester resin and Bondo

Cosplay and especially pepakura projects use it a lot, it goes on smooth and cures stand-on-it hard

>>1477675
Interesting, I would never have thought to do that. What's the order, mix bondo into one of the components then mix in the other or first mix resin, then add bondo? Would like to try it out at some point.

Any ideas what could be causing these weird artifacts? It's like random layers are shifted back (in the Y axis) by a fraction of a mm. Printer is a CR-10S.

>>1477732
To me, looks like ghosting or loose belts, or a combination. Slow down prints, tighten everything, and you should get it fixed. The shifting might be because the inertia of the extruder pushes it a touch farther than it should due to loose parts.

>>1477627
Nothing decorative.
mostly fixtures, adapters, cases and covers

>>1477627
Mostly decorative, stuff like tabletop terrain and models related to video games/etc. or just decorative pieces.

>>1477751
Thank you. I looked the G code a few seconds ago and, on the 'shifted' layers, the hot end is moving over those areas to avoid crossing outlines, sorry to have taken up your time. I'll still check the belts, wheels, ect.

For reference, I print at 40mm/s with movement speed at 60 and a 50% underspeed for the final outline, which I understand to already be rather conservative, even for a CR-10 with 1.7kg of mirror tile for the heated bed.

>>1477627
The stuff I design and print is entirely functional prototypes. I also run off pen pots, which I use as diplomatic tools to get tasks I enjoy and avoid those I don't.

>>1477732
Is your z axis screw lose on the top or bottom?
If so make sure it doesn't move when it is turning

>>1477762
Thank you also, do you mean move vertically or wobbling back and forth? It doesn't do either. It was definitely the G code because I've noticed that it's only on the back, not the front, where there was no traversing the outer perimeter.

>>1477765
Side to side. I had the problem where it would get ugly for a bit with every rotation of my screw. So I printed these caps to keep it in place.

is it worth it to be a lazy bastard and put an ABL sensor on my ender 3?

>>1477770
Don't get a Chinese one. You WILL go with your nozzle through your bed if you do

>>1477762
>>1477767
Z screws are supposed to float by design on i3s (the guide rods keep everything straight). If your z is so out of true that it's a problem, you either assembled something wrong (IE it's off center at the motor coupler) or you need to replace your z screw.

>>1477770
Just get some feeler gauges, it beats the everloving shit out of paper. I personally level so a .04mm goes under the nozzle without touching, a .06 passes under but has just enough friction to spring back as it exits and a .08 won't go through at all. After a while, I've found I don't even need the .04 and the .08 at all to get a perfect level.

The only reason ABL makes sense is for mesh leveling.

>>1477774
Thanks for the confirmation, I remembered something about them needing to free float so as not to cause binding but could only find Google results pertaining to them wobbling with rotation due to warping.

>>1477774
I have a flexible coupling.

>>1477728
In a separate container mix the Bondo and resin, then add both the normal amounts of cream hardener and resin hardener, then pour.

It will heat up considerably, definitely enough to deform PLA, if you pour a large volume at one time. Pour small volumes, let it cure, mix and pour some more. Or do slush fills - pour a bit in, roll the part around to coat all interior surfaces, then do more slush coats or do regular fills.

>>1477627
Mostly cosplay stuff. Other stuff is just for handy fixes around the house

The y-axis bearings in my Ender 3 keep creating or attracting this sort of dust. I clean it off and it comes back. Does this mean my belts are too tight on that axis? I tried to half heartedly loosen them but the dust keeps appearing. Do I just have to make the belt as loose as I can without slipping, or is this another problem entirely?

>>1477984
Could be static attraction or oi/grease attracting dirt. I don't think it's really fixable, I've never worried about it.

>>1477984
looks like those wheels are too tight, the extrusion shouldnt be cutting into it like that, too much friction
getting the wheel alignment fixed is a pain but find a video, nerys wanks on for 30 minutes about the horrible bolt configuration on the bed here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XVTbkjArH5Q

>>1477627
90% of the stuff I print is Pokemon, either for myself or as commissions

Pic related, I finally printed a big version of my favorite Pokemon for myself.

I want to print stuff to practice miniatures painting on, Pokemon aren't good for that with their simple, organic shapes and big areas of single colors. I need some mechs or something.

just printed a prostate massager, its pretty not good

>>1477627
I make dolls. Model and print, both mine.

anyone here ever heard the term fabber used for "Hobby" desktop FDM machines to set them apart from "professional" FDM machines? Thats what they are trying to teach this in university over here.

anyone here ever heard the term fabber used for "Hobby" desktop FDM machines to set them apart from "professional" FDM machines? Thats what they are trying to teach in university over here.

>>1478132
Link or file ?

>>1477984
>>1478017
>>1478072
All of my wheels do this, I don't think the angles of the wheels match the extrusion for the ender 3. I figure I'll eventually have to replace them.

>>1478433
Nope, sounds like bullshit.
The common vernacular is usually hobbyist, enthusiast, or consumer level

>>1478444
A friend of mine sort-of explained it as static electricity generated by the speed and friction of the wheels attracting dust. I imagine part of the dust is coming from the wheels themselves wearing down (looks like fine rubber particles), but I don't thing it's something you'll need to worry about replacing anytime soon.

My Ender 3 does it too, I just wipe it off every now and then.

>>1478433
Fabber sounds like the lecturer's been reading too many sci-fi books or refuses to let go of 90's terminology made by one company.
>over here
Where?

>>1478452
Germany. I never heard it being used here either

>>1478087
Also, Meltan

Hey guys I have a question. I am thinking of building one of those ikea lack enclosures, for my ender 3, will it be ok to have it in my bedroom in the enclosure or is there health risks?

>>1478675
I think anything you run through a FDM is pretty safe to breathe as long as you've got ventilation; if you're plannjng on running ABS you'll want to be in a different room (not that it's really dangerous, it just stinks).

>>1478679
Ok yeah I will run it in a different room, I plan to do ABS here and there.

make a new thread senpai

New thread: >>1478843