/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Thread topic: I totally forgot to put /3DP/ on the image.

>>1460070
Terrible omen desu, we will all have failed prints now.

>>1460064
Ayyy, my lame nerd shit made the collage, love the NERFon the shelves
Are the E3D hotends and extruders really that big of a deal? All the "official" parts are stupid expensive compared to practically every other hotend brand

>>1460182
But lame nerd shit is the most fun shit, anon. How'd you get such definition on those parts, though? Most of the time when I try to make things that small you can really see the layer lines or it manages to lose detail. Small nozzle, maybe?

>>1460182
In the past i've read that the clones are ok. In the last thread an anon said all the clones suck for all-metal hotends, and to only use micro swiss or e3d for those. I'd love to know what other anons have experienced with all metal hot ends. Are clones really that bad. What does everyone prefer if they do abs?

I was about to buy a clone when i read the last thread. Now back to the research stage.

>>1460198
http://www.heroshoard.com
Everything printed there came directly from his website, all of his designs are modelled specifically to hide the layer lines, like the shelves have woodgrain textures so it looks like the layer lines are just natural same with the bricks
Outside of that it was all printed on a MP mini V2 with a .4mm nozzle using Amazon brand filament at 210°C and sliced with repetier host(CURA engine)
thank you

>>1460198
>>1460182
Oh, and its .2mm layer height and 100mm print speed
>>1460206
Give me 4-6 business days for my "real" E3D and I'll have an opinion, I've never printed with ABS and I'm like 70% sure the default hotend on my printer was a clone to begin with and it was great until I bought the wrong nozzles

>>1460070
and its /3dpg/

>>1460160

Not to mention that it's normally /3DPG/ instead of /3DP/

>>1460182

I'm curious about those clones, i've only used genuine E3D stuff and a Hexagon hotend so far. Everytime i'd ask if clones are any good on the reprap IRC, be it for E3D nowadays or the J-Head that was popular years ago i always got a "fuck NO". But with so many people using them these days (including here) it seems that reaction might've been overly dramatic.

Both the Hexagon and original Aero have been fine, except for small issues.

- The micro-welds on the Hexagon's heatbreak snapped, but it's still usable. It's just able to swivel now if you twist it with your hand.
- The Aero has been awesome, but the gear started to skip at one time and got so hard to turn that the whole thing would completely jam mid-print. Turns out there was some fiasco with E3D's bearings being poor quality and rusting up. Everything went back to smooth sailing after i got new bearings and replaced the old ones. It's not a big deal at all, but with the prices they charge you expect their stuff to be absolutely flawless.

>>1460253
>>1460226
>>1460160
>/3dp/
Im totally out of it.

Pew Pew

Adding an enclosure to Printer #7 tomorrow. Going to start printing some parts out of ABS.

Woke up to a boot loop and it turns out windows update decided to corrupt the OS, err, I mean install updates while I was sleeping... Completely shit the bed, couldn't even get into safe mode—had to reinstall windows.
Nothing important lost, but my Cura profiles are gone. Don't forget to backup the unlikely shit too folks.

>>1460371
What filament is that burgundy on the top? Looks wonderful

>>1460371
How did you manage to rifle the barrel?

>>1460379
I don't think you understand that this is a nerf gun.

>>1460371
>Going to start printing some parts out of ABS.
If it's not a part that slides on another part, I'd consider that a downgrade

>>1460393
Nerf guns have rifling too.

>>1460374
It's good to have a bootable Linux disk around for pulling files off the hard drive when this happens. Knoppix is good for this.

>>1460423
uhh, no?

>>1460436
I think they did, it was straight rifling tho

>>1460449
uhh you do know what the purpose of rifling is, don't you?

>>1460449
>>1460456
In a Nerf gun, I would think the straight "rifling" would reduce friction. Since the darts are rubber tipped, foam bodied wouldn't they be inclined to stick to a smooth plastic barrel?

This is 30% into the print but i already see a gap forming, why is this?

>>1460494
Just stop trying

>>1460498
Doesn't matter how far into the print you are, delamination is delamination - probably a breeze or cold environment

>>1460498
Can't really help if you don't bother providing ANY info at all. I'm going to guess that's abs and you're not printing hot enough, or you have the cooling fans on, or you're printing in a drafty area and there's cooler air hitting the print as it's printing.

I've been battling this Anet A8 for a while now. I was able to get some prints right after assembling, but anymore I am not having any luck. The filament doesn't seem to extrude during the print enough if at all. The nozzle doesn't appear to be clogged, as I can push filament through it easily and it comes out fairly uniform. I tightened the extruder, because I thought that maybe the filament wasn't being gripped tightly enough. I would like to just test the extruder without printing anything, but I don't know if the stock firmware will let me do that. What custom firmware would you guys recommend? Marlin? Skynet 3D?

>>1460553
Don't they come with marlin?

I use printrun to control my printer. You can home, move by increments. set temps, extrude, execute g code , load & print files, ect.
>http://www.pronterface.com/

>>1460553
Skynet's unnecessary now that the Anet board is part of the Marlin DB.

>>1460374
>What filament is that burgundy on the top?
Paramount 3D Decepticon Purple. Available in ABS or PLA.

https://smile.amazon.com/Paramount-3D-Decepticon-Filament-PRL40077449C/dp/B01N5O82U6/

>>1460379
>>1460393
>>1460423
>>1460449
>>1460494
No, "rifling" doesn't do anything because the darts are self-stabilizing in flight. The barrel in smooth bore so that there's an okay seal between it and the dart foam. Because the dart is propelled by pneumatic force imparted by a spring plunger.
There's some misconceptions regarding muzzle devices that involve strings and twist in them, but the real reason those provide a benefit is that they allow excess pneumatic output to leak around the dart while keeping it stable, so when the dart does finally exit the muzzle it doesn't get tail effects imparted upon it.
>>1460404
>If it's not a part that slides on another part, I'd consider that a downgrade
I'm considering it for the Sear which does round off over time when printed from PLA. I'm also considering it for the current part that allows me to pin the two halves together. It sees some tensile loads that PLA may not be able to handle long term.

There's also some interest in these out of PETG for higher heat deflection temperatures, but my experiments with that so far have been fairly miserable as I've found it too fussy to print the larger parts with.

>>1460613
>If it's not a part that slides on another part, I'd consider that a downgrade
>I'm considering it for the Sear which does round off over time when printed from PLA. I'm also considering it for the current part that allows me to pin the two halves together. It sees some tensile loads that PLA may not be able to handle long term.
What's up with this? PLA is harder than ABS shouldn't it therefore handle being a sear better? Or how about just making the sear wider/thicker/lubricating it with some white lithium grease, also how about you just do the sear like pic related, i can guarantee this design will last longer.

>>1460618
>i can guarantee this design will last longer.
The trigger pull and moment on that look terrible. You're also going to get a somewhat inconsistent acceleration moment on that pivot, and the rear tang of the trigger is in the way of the path of the plunger.

Your design also assumes that there's no flex or distortion of the components. And that flex and distortion over time are what is causing wear. ABS has better elongation and ductility properties than PLA, especially over longer time scales. The Sear isn't the biggest issue given that they're lasting up to 4,000 shots, and it's a part that only takes 45 minutes to print. I'm more concerned about the limits and stresses of the newer parts I've had to add to the design to accommodate more competitive features.

>>1460515
It is ABS and i am currently printing at 250°C. Its just that sometimes prints have zero problems and on the next it completely detaches. I guess i am going to try to build an eclosure for it next month and see if that changes anything.

What happens if I put PLA in microwave?

Why does anyone use ABS? I've heard it I'd softer than pla and harder to print? Are there any mechanical advantages?

>>1460553
I get results like this sometimes with pla that has absorbed too much moisture.

>>1460737
All you have to do is put something around it to block drafts from hitting the print. Try setting up a some folders or something around the printer as a temporary fix.

>>1460793
Acetone "gluing" to make multiple parts as strong and attached as if they were printed together.

>>1460793
as said by >>1460647
>ABS has better elongation and ductility properties than PLA, especially over longer time scales
There is more to a material than hardness

Never printed anything before, but the library has one people can use for free, and I have a part to experiment with.

I'm planning on it being 1/4" thick, the whole thing is about 1.5" x 2". Any idea how long it might take to print something this size?

Currently shown it is technically upside down. What orientation would be better?

>>1460791
You woukd have pla in a microwave. If you close the door and turn it on you would either have a nukular explosion over 9000 killatonnes or melted pla in a microwave.
>tl;dr dont do it, too risky

>>1460793
Some people print practical and structual things that get used and dont just waste plastic on tiny trinkets that sit on a shelf.

>>1460823
Estimated time is 2h12m but I've found Cura underestimates print times - let's say 2.5 - 3.
Printing it orientated as in your picture was an extra 9 minutes according to Cura so not a huge difference.

Object in my drawing is 2"x2"x2" overall

>>1460553
>>1460558
>>1460603
>>1460803
Thanks, guys. I figured it out. The gear in my extruder came loose and walked away from where it needed to be. I am getting prints now, but my filament is old, and my settings are not perfect so I will continue to pick away at things one variable at a time. I will also continue to look into custom firmware options. I do appreciate the help. This general is awesome. Top lads, all of you.

>>1460834
interesting

is there any difference structurally? or does it not matter with something this small?

any suggestions for cut-outs/removing material to speed up the process?

I don't know exactly how they schedule the times, but I would hope they'd give users enough time to actually make something useful

looks like this is the one they have: https://www.amazon.com/FlashForge-Structure-Optimized-Platform-Extruder/dp/B00I8NM6JO

12 cm print with desktop SLA,

sanded and re-casted in resin

>>1460841
Structurally no. The main concern with the strength of prints is orientation of the layer lines, which in this case are the same either way.
That printer is capable of prints that would take a full day or more, I'm sure they'll accommodate you.

>>1460839
>old filament
I hear you can bake it in the oven to get most of the moisture out. May not work for really hygroscopic filaments, but fine for PLA and ABS

>>1460841
The biggest concern with a 3D print is how your layers are oriented. Think of it like the grain in wood; layers can delaminate under torsional or shear stress along the layer lines. It's best to orient your print so that the layer lines will be perpendicular to that kind of stress once the part is in place, and if you can't do that then you should consider other options like increasing the shell thickness and infill (or printing completely solid).

There are post processing methods to strengthen the part as well depending on the material like annealing the part, painting or coating, or even using the part to make a mold then casting it out of metal or resin.

Judging by your part I'm assuming it's something mechanical, so you probably don't want to cut holes in it or sacrifice its structural integrity.

>>1460839
>>1460847
Food dehydrators are also good for drying out old filament

>>1460847
>Judging by your part I'm assuming it's something mechanical, so you probably don't want to cut holes in it or sacrifice its structural integrity.

it is an adapter to fit over a drain cleanout plug, the other side is meant to accept a 3/8" socket extension....by turning it with a socket/bar you unscrew the plug

I don't expect it to be strong enough to replace a crescent wrench, as I will be only using the adapter after the plug should be moveable by hand

When I print somthing with horizontal holes they turn out like pic related (exegerated). Is this a cooling issue or something else?

>>1460843
Post on Reddit for free Karma

>>1460867

Yeah that's the plastic curling up at the edges. Ramp up the cooling fan or use a lower printing temperature

>>1460843
Sanding that must have been a bitch, I don't see layer lines even in the mouth or teeth. How'd you do it?

>>1460875
He cast it.

>>1460875
>re-casted
Sanding is not that hard if you have only 1 part.

>>1460843
Id still want to see the pattern.

>>1460875
>SLA
>Sanding that must have been a bitch

???????

>>1460436
>>1460449
Yes, i got a nerf gun for my nephew a few weeks ago and it had helical rifling.

>>1460875
Lot's of sand in his front hole.

>>1460843
>>1460867

this was a SLA print so the logic of FDM do not apply, it' was printed vertically, hollowed with internal supports.

>>1460887
absolutely, one part made it easy.
>>1460924
>>1460875
sanding wasnt hard, layers were very fine, I spayed it to act as a filler for small gaps, than sanded with fine sponges made by 3M, also Mr Hobby have some good fine sponges

since some seems interested this is the original print, used to make the casting mold

>>1460936
Im not one to advocate retarded meme cartoons, but you should get silicon an green dye and go ham.

>>1460938
me neither, I like rick and morty, obviously...but not "that much", like hurr durr.

what do you mean go ham?

>>1460940
To produce floppy green silicone ricks in mass and give it to friends and stuff.

>>1460942
for now mass producing solid resin. but yea flexible material would be great

>>1460933
My question was unrelated to the comment

>>1460793
>Why does anyone use ABS?
Vapor smoothing, WAY higher heat deflection temperature (so you can print stuff that can be used inside a car), more ductility, less brittle, 4 to 6 times higher impact resistance compared to PLA, less moisture absorption than PETG so the filament it has a better shelf life.

It's unpleasant to print with for a variety of reasons. But it's a very capable material.

>>1460823
>>1460834
If you print that the other way around and close off the inside of that square through-hole with a single or double layer of material on the model it will print way way better. You then use a knife to trim that thin layer out of the inside of the print.

>current WIP
printed in 3 pieces, glued together with acetone, covered in one layer of sprayfiller already. sanding it for the 1st time now and will spray it after that again. if all goes right i can paint it after that alreay, if not, repeat the sanding and spraying until im happy

>>1461012
>HW
nice

>>1461019
good taste my man. gonna do that after the destroyer and interceptor

>>1460940
>what do you mean go ham?
It's an idiom.

>>1460867
>>1460966

it is an issue related to the temp. mainly. you can lower the temp by either a fan setting, or the temp of the material itself.

if this is not the issue, you should check the slicing (sometimes horizontal undercuts are printed with overhanging half)

or the mass of the part printed over the undercut, that if too big or too small, can cool in different ways and behave by pulling or stretching the entire part, not very common tho.

>>1461024
You need to put some LEDs in there.

>>1461038
not sure how well the print turns out if i dont fill it honestly, but i thought about it too after watching this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x9A9FaT1wsE

>>1460793
PC+PBT > ABS > other plastics > PLA

>>1460894
Oops, didn't see the 'SLA'

>>1460884
Casting things doesn't automatically get rid of layer lines, you still have to smooth it either before or after you cast

>>1460936
Neat. What materials did you use for the mold and cast?

>>1461025
>>1460940
Not quite an idiom, more of a contraction people forgot the origin of - "hard as a motherfucker"

Why is carbon fiber filled filament such a meme? It's so brittle that it's weaker than everything else, and so expensive that it's not even worth buying in the first place.

>>1461052
What about nylon and TPUs?

>>1461101
These are good questions. I suspect the only people that buy it these days are the uninformed who think it's stronk, or of course people that buy it for the look. Never seen any prints in person but to me it doesn't look much different from regular black PLA so...

Maybe it performs really well if you anneal it or something?

>>1460972
the hole does not go through

>>1461220
then print it big side down as in >>1460823
if the hole doesnt go true its possible to bridge over the gap and print ontop.

>>1461101
>It's so brittle that it's weaker than everything else
It trades tensile strength for ductility. SO unless you part is designed for a situation where it needs the added tensile strength, it's pretty shitty.

>>1461179
>What about nylon and TPUs?
Name one actual use for TPU besides a shitty gasket making material.

I own a Chinese Instone printer, I just bought a jhead clone hotend.

Anyone have experience with either?

>>1461333
You must not be a creative anon.

-Not as shitty as you think sealing gaskets for cases that need at least a little splash / dust resistance
-Custom shock mounts for bench top gear or tools to protect from or prevent spreading vibrations (speakers, scopes, function gens, power supplies, scroll saw, mini band saw, belt sanders, drill presses, dremel jigs, your 3D printer)
-Flexible and grippy mechanical components (tires, living hinges, soft end stops, bumpers)
-Wrist bands / straps for wearable projects
-Phone and other electronics cases

Use cases depend on the hardness of flexi you have.

Hey friends. After a bunch of research I'm getting an Anycubic i3 Mega for various /tg/ projects. One of the resources I've read says to get into some pretty serious calibration (getting out the calipers and checking the filament width, for example) right off the bat. Does anyone with experience with the i3 Mega know such things are required (in which case I'll happily do them to improve print quality) or if I really just need to level the bed and print a nice calibration cube/rectangle/rhombus?

>>1460210
I would love to hear what you think after you have a chance to try it out. An all metal hotend so I can print abs is my next upgrade.

Guise, why won't my Benchy's stay afloat?

On a more serious note: I need to print 200 chamber flags for a very niche calibre. I wanted to use Ultimaker PLAFlex, but that's apparently not available anymore. What is the best current option if you want a flexible, easy to print filament?

>>1461523
>Guise, why won't my Benchy's stay afloat?

I’m finally getting around to doing the prusa mk2s to mk2.5 upgrade. I printed these parts in esun black PETG. Do these parts look okay for the extruder upgrade?

>>1461101
One of the Phd students i worked with worked on a project where she was printing coiled loops of this stuff for some sort of strain gage iirc. It has some uses but im pretty sure she just dumped the idea later on.

Quick question, I've lost my can of oil I use to keep my rails lubed, I haven't lubed my printer for a while and it's just started vibrating a bit when it moves alone the rails, can I just use some sex lube instead or will it completely fuck it? Should I just drive 5 miles to the nearest shop to buy some more?

>>1461626
sex lube is usually water based and will quickly dry out, you need oil or grease.

>>1461526
You need a metal printer and print a lead keel.

>>1461626
Maybe a drop of cooking oil. But grease would be ideal.

>>1461381
I like printing out squishy DnD miniatures

Best free CAD software for a retard to learn?

>>1462100
Blender and Fusion 360 should have you covered for 90% of situations. One's art, one's traditional CAD; can't help with the retard part but at least they're free.

>>1462100
openSCAD

>>1462100
Fusion 360 is the most like "real" CAD software

Is freecad anygod?

>>1462106

I'm a big Blender user and use it to make all my models but i wouldn't recommend it. You can't just do simple things like fillets and booleans without running into geometry issues. That stuff requires quite a bit of modelling experience to wrangle correctly in Blender.

>>1462113
Fusion's pretty deep, what sets the pro tier software apart from it?

>tfw scratched my ultrabase glass plate while printing presliced calibration Gcode

The head crashed into my binder clip and it ripped the surface because it had absolutely retarded start Gcode
fucking teaching tech

Is it possible to 3D print firearms? Obviously not legally, just curious if it's actually a thing and developed

>>1462166
Yes

>>1462166
it's perfectly legal to print them.

>>1462175
Depends on where you live though.

Opinions about Amazon Basics Filament? It starts to get sold in Europe after it had been sold for some time in America, so some here might have tested it already.

Added an enclosure to printer #7

Now I can finally start using up the 3kg spool of ABS that was shipped with the used printer I bought 6 months ago.

>>1462189
printed solid enclosure kit?

>>1462191
No it's this one because I wanted a door.

https://smile.amazon.com/TabSynth-Enclosure-Lulzbot-Mini-Printer/dp/B079HM6YT2/

>>1462189
Nice enclosure. Looks very clean.

>>1462189
Depending on how hot you get it in there, you might want to watch out for heat creep problems with the heat break. ABS can still be a bitch with an enclosure, but ultimately it solves a ton of problems.

Anyone here have experience with metallic powder printing? Is that realistic to build a setup at home without worrying about industrial regulations? Or would you be simply better buying a CNC/subtractive manufacturing at that point?

Obviously this is for the more experienced users (personally I'm a bit more of a noob), but I wanted to know if it's viable on a home rig.

>>1462222
lmao do you even fucking know how metallic powder printing works?

>>1462224
See also
>personally I'm a bit more of a noob
From what I understand it typically is printed with a laser or other energy source following. I imagine this is fairly expensive, but would it be possible to build your own rig with, say, lead pellets and a heat gun? At least as a proof-of-concept sorta thing?

>>1462193
lol printedsolid still doesn't put doors on their enclosures but good find

>>1462100
Been using tinkercad.com for quick prototypes and works great, no need to install anything, you design straight on the website and export a stl file
>pic related

>>1462222
>viable on a home rig.
Nope. DMLS is $300k+ and involves many pieces of equipment beyond just the printer itself. Mostly relating to to powder reclamation and post-sintering. Each machine has to have filtration rated for the metal powders because inhalation of them is dangerous (especially aluminum) and if done incorrectly highly flammable (again especially aluminum).

The "cheap" metal printing involves printing with stainless steel powder, then infusing it with bronze in an autoclave or belt furnace.

Benchtop or entry-level CNC machining is incredibly cheap by comparison.

>>1462250
Alright, thanks for the information.

Looking for a quick rundown on enamel vs acrylic paint on PLA that's been sanded and puttied to a smooth texture. Pros and cons of each?

>>1462298
Acrylic paint is easy to work with and clean up; it's also usually relatively cheap (I use Vallejo and the Games Workshop paints). Pic related has been sanded (no putty) and painted with acrylics, then coated with a polyurethane gloss layer.

absolute beginner here. just drew this up on tinkercad and i'm left with more questions than solutions.

>measurments
how 'accurate' does the drawing have to be as long as the measurements are right? how do i even add measurements to the drawing? it looks like the tiny squares are 1mm. so will i need to my a workplane big enough for my object and do the imperial to metric conversions and just use the standard grid as a measuring device?

>cost
does anyone have a rough idea how much this would even cost in the first place if the top square surface is 10"x 10"x oh i dont fucking know .5"? im guessing if i have the cylinders bored that should cut the cost of materials?

>>1462323
dude what are you talking about, yes the tiny squares are 1mm, that's your scale, idk what the problem is

>>1462189
Thats a very nicely kitted out hamster cage

>>1462323
>idk what the problem is
im retarded is what the problem is. i just fucked around with the grid and changed it inches and increased the size to what i need. i think i can manage to make this work. that said, any idea how much an object like this will cost using PLA? would making the cylinders hollow significantly decrease the cost?

>>1462332
dude don't work in inches lmao why would you do that

>>1462338
why not? the thing im measuring (merican made cupholder) works out in inches i mean i know metric is more accurate but the thing i need doesn't really have to be super precise

>>1462339
If that's a cupholder for something the size of a bottle or gas station soda cup, it's easily going to cost you upwards of $75. You're better off making that thing from plywood or cardboard.

If you want actual rigid dimensions, learn to use Fusion 360, it's relatively user-friendly and easy to use.

>>1462240
>with, say, lead pellets and a heat gun?
Wow man...
If not a troll you're def not mentally capable of additive manufacturing.

>>1462332
After you've got the part designed export it to an STL, then open that in your slicer of choice. If you configure your material type and properties in Cura it'll tell you the amount of material used in grams, meters, and the estimated price down to the cent based on the price per roll and roll size you have configured. Other slicers can probably tell you all that as well.

>>1462338
Don't listen to this guy. Use whatever units you want; any decent CAD software should convert everything to mm or in when you export to an STL file, as well as having options to configure quality settings for the STL

>>1462341
>$75
Huh? I imagine you're talking about having it printed at a print shop / online?
If it's just PLA there's no way it'd cost near that much in material alone. True though, 3D printing isn't the best choice for that part.

>>1462302
Did that gloss layer help smooth some things out? How large is that? Pic related is where I'm at now, only so much sanding I can do at this size with the tools I have.

>>1462332
Cost is determined by the total amount of material
Weight = time = material
A cubic cm of PLA weighs about 1.2 grams
1kg of PLA costs $20(or less), so a gram is about $0.02
So, a cubic cm is about 2.5 cents or less in material

There's options when preparing a model for printing to reduce material. You can set the infill %, and that will make it semi-hollow while still adding strength.

If you're someone that would prefer to work with numbers and things pre-designed on paper, You might like openScad
Here's openScad code for a 1mm cube with a 0.5mm hole through it:
difference(){
cube(1);
translate([.5,.5,0]) cylinder( h=1, d=.5);
}

>>1462341
its going to be a little platform/table that sits in the cup holders so i can sit a mouse/tablet on top with out having to cock my arm back uncomfortably on the console armrest thing. basically this is what im doing >>1456623. ill play around with fusion 360

>>1462344
oh cool nice to know something like that exists. i do intend on having it printed at a shop. the few places around that do it offer free quotes. if i can get it $50-100 ill probably be happy paying that much. i'll be using it a LOT so it'll work and fuck do i hate woodworking. plus it would be nice to learn a bit about 3d printing

>>1462353
ah cool. well i dont think im at that point yet. i need a couple more measurements then ill draw the super official final polished design and post it here and send it off and see what kind of price i can get for it

>>1462349
I think it was about 1.5" high, don't remember exactly and can't measure it since I gave it to a friend. The gloss layer hid absolutely no defects, since what I used was a thin protective coating for miniatures like Warhammer. Polyurethane spray (from a can) has some thickness to it and would help, though.

Consider printing something like pic related or get some sanding sticks; I put 600-1000 grit sandpaper in this thing and worked pretty well.

>>1462363
Similar to what you're showing, pic related has been an immense help so far. I'll see if I can whip up some tiny sanding sticks to finish things up a little better before moving forward. I'll still for sure want a protective coating, the ears on the cat there are fragile as fuck. I can't even touch them.

>>1462240
If you're serious, your best bet might be to look into the wirefeed welder printer concept, or lost PLA casting. But ask yourself if you really need metal in the first place. If you do, then machining might be a more direct path to the result you need due to the cost, time, and material comoromises. 3d metal printing is where 3d plastic printing was 20 years ago. Sure it's possible to get into metal printing, but you really have to have a need to justify it. It's not anywhere near the "I have an idea and couple hundred (or even thousand) dollars burning a hole in my pocket" level yet.

>>1462371
Note by "protective coating" I mean more to prevent paint rubbing off from regular handling than "provides extra strength" - you might want to consider an epoxy coating to make it less fragile, or print it in a larger size

>>1462356
//OpenScad for anon. save as filename.scad
//change these numbers
//multiply them by 25.4 to convert to metric
//like this: topWidth = 10*25.4;
topWidth = 10;
topHeight = 8;//front to back
topThickness = .2;

legThickness = .1;
legHeight = 5;

cupDia = 3;
cupHeight = 3;
cupSpacingCenters = 4;

reinforcementSize = .5;
///////////////////////////////

$fn=32;//number of flats in a cylinder
module half(){
//Top
translate([0,0,legHeight])
cube([topWidth/2,topHeight,topThickness]);
//side
translate([topWidth/2-legThickness,0,0])
cube([legThickness,topHeight,legHeight]);
//reinforcement
translate([topWidth/2-legThickness-reinforcementSize,0,legHeight-reinforcementSize])
cube([reinforcementSize,topHeight,reinforcementSize]);
//hollow cup
translate([cupSpacingCenters/2,topHeight/2,legHeight-cupHeight])
difference(){
cylinder(h=cupHeight,d=cupDia);
translate([0,0,topThickness])
cylinder(h=cupHeight-topThickness,d=cupDia-topThickness*2);
}
}
half();
mirror() half();

Pieces for one arm glued together... fugg this took too long

>>1462438
In case you don't know, Worbla would also probably work for that. Not implying you shouldn't be 3D printing those, but just letting you know of an alternative if you haven't heard of it

>>1462419
I downloaded and printed your model, it was a gun and shot me in the leg. Someone call the cyber police

>>1460064
Hello everyone.

Someone is selling this
for
300 CAD, and is desperate for cash.

I'm gonna try and talk him down to 200, what model/make is this though?

>>1462349
gloss will smooth things but will also show print lines. You have to fill those first.
>Krylon primer is a few dolalrs and works really fucking well, it levels and preserves detail
>Bondo spot putty is cheap and can be used on bigger spots and deeper holes. For a finer but more expensive option, look up model putty at hobby stores
>just a few layers of acrylic paint. I finished a bust of Athena at .01mm definition, primered it, then 3 layers of carefully painted on Acrylic white paint and she looks great. and i used shitty 50 cent walmart paint too.

>>1462492
just make sure it works before you buy it

>>1462492
Don't. Not worth it. Just bought an ender 3 for around $360 leafs incl tax. My first printer and absolutely blown away by the quality of prints. Didn't have to learn shit about 3d printing or dick around, just threw in franks beginning and ending g-code in cura and used his fine quality profile.

All low end printers have been made obsolete, nothing at this price point compares.

>>1462502
thnks bro.

>>1462492
That's an E3D bigbox, didn't stick around too long they were over their heads when it came to providing support. It's a decent machine, but very little support now.

>>1462542
ty, I decided to pass just because of its size, the thing is absolutely fucking massive.

>>1462378
Decided upscaling might be worth a shot. My flex-i-file ought to fit between the arms and body, so we'll see how it goes. Unfortunately, it's a little tall for a D&D figure.

>>1462495
Been using Deluxe Materials "perfect plastic putty" between rounds of sanding. I very much like it for being my first time doing such a thing.

>>1462555
...You need to adjust your printer settings and consider switching filaments. That's an absolutely unreal amount of stringing and blobs, no wonder you're having issues post-processing.

>>1462166
Where were you like two months ago when the media had a shitstorm about 3d printed guns?

>>1462574
I printed two of them - one upright and one on its back, since I knew printing them upright at the smaller scale screwed up during the legs. The upright one came out much cleaner than the one you see here, but the legs broke upon removing the support. Still though, that's no excuse for me not messing with settings for my super cheapo printer.

>>1462579
You might want to slice the model in half and glue the top/bottom halves together if you can't get the legs to reliably print. slowing the print speed down also works wonders - yeah, it'll take longer, but it'll look much better sometimes.

Is libreCAD any good?

>>1462643
>2d
Nevermind

Ok, this is pissing me off. I install freeCAD and o open it and it just does the install process agaon and again and again. What did i do wrong?

>>1462555
Youre waifu is hairy af.
Fiddle with print parameters, ramp up the cooling, also try out different colored filaments, some might be more susceptible to stringing and zits. Also it might be moisture in the filament that causes a lot of those.

>>1462668
>What did i do wrong?
>install freeCAD
yep

>>1462155
In terms of features, not a whole lot if you're enthusiast tier.
The ui in fusion is not as nice as Inventor, and the Solidworks ui is as bad as Fusion but for different reasons.

>>1462323
>download STL from tinkercad
>open in cura
>click prepare
>cura gives an estimate of PLA grams needed
>multiply by 0.02$

>>1462110
OpenSCAD seems like an autists version of mspaint. Maybe its because i dont know how to code.

>>1462349
kat!

What's the best way to cut up a model into printable sizes? Ideally into assemblies that make sense.

>>1462593
>>1462681
>>1462705
These two ought to sand out fine. But in the meantime, I'll look into my moisture problem. I can feel that my models are actually slick after printing, so that's gotta be a factor. I've got a week and a half to finish any one of them, and I'd prefer it to be the smaller one. Maybe the bigger ones will be painting test candidates.

ABS printing has gone swimmingly so far.

>>1462751
ever painted one?

>>1462123
It's okay, I use it. Pirate inventor if you can.

Protection from fucking zombie Apocalypse. The Russian technology. Simple and effective.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LFSA4oPH2fw

>>1462764
Nah, I don't enjoy painting. Here's one somebody else painted.

>>1462769
fair enough, Looks good though

>>1460064
I've been trying to set up my ender 3, but it keeps fucking up. The calibration cubes that I did at cura's defaults for it keep having holes on the top. I'm using Hatchbox red PLA. I am not sure if its my bed getting constantly unleveled, my print speed or what.

>>1462772
change infill pattern from concentric?

>>1462773
will that also help with symmetry? I've also done a few prints of 6mm scale houses and the roofs are often not symmetrical.

>>1462772
If you think that your bed is getting unleveled i suggest tightening down the bed screws more, the increased force of the springs will keep the friction high enough to stop them from coming loose under the vibrations.

>>1462775
no idea, i use S3D, just seen a lot of posts in the Ender3 facebook group about the top infill being shoddy and 9/10 they were using concentric
not symmetric how?

>>1462777
The layer height is .2mm
print speed is at 50mm/s
as I said hatchbox red pla at 200 degrees with a 60 degree bed and fan speed at 100%
infill density is at 20%. didn't see infill patterns in cura, but I've only been printing for a month, so its possible I missed it from my habit of using the mini select.

>>1462668
Are you trying to open it using the installer?

>>1462772
Cura doesn't have a default profile for the ender 3. People use the CR10 profile but it's wrong and produces bad prints.

Try the fine profile here.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1hWfL2ylSgckZ1eyMhhkRuI6DIK7KSCsN

and the start and end g-code in the description in this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I-D1vTbob2c

>>1462779
i assume u have checked the number of top layers?
the asymetry might be caused by a to high acceleration or bad belt tention, but this looks worse then that would.

>>1462166
Sure! Check out Defense Distributed and Fosscad if you're interested.

>>1462793
I think it might be the belt tension since I am doing another cube right now and it got caught and almost totally missed the bed.

>>1462769
Do you sell any full hardware sets for your blasters? I looked on your Etsy and didn't see any, or maybe I'm just not farmiliar enough with the lingo...

>>1462798
Caught as in the nozzle hit the bed when it tried to start from home position?

The machine has a bunch of known QC issues with the limit switches not working right because they're flimsy and the z axis lead screw being off completely and requiring the motor to have shims installed.

>>1462792
Not the red pla guy, but thanks for posting that. Someone had mentioned franks profiles before but google wasn't helping; never heard of him before.

Is the stock cura CR10 profile that bad? Ender 3 is basically the same printer. What changes / improvements does franks profile make?

What's the best flexible filament right now if I need to make 200 chamber flags for a customer? Needs to be low cost, but good enough quality to not fail a batch of ten.

>>1462811
I mean that the belt made slapping sounds and the extruder carriage stopped for a bit while the bed was moving back.

>>1462816
Is 3d printing really your best option for that?
It feels like injection molding or just casting in general would be better for an order that big
Also how flexible do they need to be, all of the chamber flags I've seen have been thick rubber or hard plastic

rate my benchy.

I am pretty impressed by that result. It is super cheap filament.
Still waiting for fiber reinforced belts for my anet a8. Then maybe upgrade the hotend too and get a nice filament, but this looks already pretty fucking great. My focus was more on security and noise anyways atm

>>1462831
>Injection molding
I don't know where I can get a mold made for less than 200 EUR (which is what this batch will probably cost).
>Casting
Setup will still be too expensive.

I'm using Ultimaker PLAFlex right now for the prototypes, but that's discontinued AFAIK. It has a 92A Shore hardness, anything in the 90-95 range will probably do. It'd be even better if I can find some filament in a bright color, the black I used (pic related) isn't really going to draw attention.

>>1462816
Why flexible? I know there's longer flags which are bendy but I've never had problems with pic related.

>>1462839
Because they want to be able to completely seal up the chamber and loading port, so they want to close the bolt. That leaves me with 4x1.5mm room to get a little flag out of the loading port if I close the bolt halfway on pic related. I tried a few units with regular PLA, but they keep snapping off - and then I found some PLAFlex leftovers which solved the problem. Main issue with standard chamber flags is that not only do they keep the loading port open, they also don't fit because these are niche target rifles in a custom 19x39mmR caliber.

>>1462835
What if you print a mold and then cast it in aluminum and mold them that way?
I'll be honest I dont know much about injection molding, but printing them just really doesn't seem feasible

>>1462816
> 200 chamber flags
For something that small you might want to consider making a silicone mold and casting them out of Urethane. You can print the master for the silicone mold, then pick whatever durometer of urethane (or silicone for that matter) and just cast your product.
>>1462810
>Do you sell any full hardware sets for your blasters?
https://www.etsy.com/listing/551944941/

>>1462835
>anything in the 90-95 range will probably do
Any TPU filament will do.

>>1462816
do you really need flexible filament? Design and print it correctly and PLA will do.

>>1462867
oh nvm read your post

>>1462841
How about a plug with a brightly coloured piece of string attached to it?

>>1462870
>>1462841
Actually now that i think about it you could just take a small length of pic related, tie a knot to one end and slip that into the chamber with some length of string protruding. But idk who would pay for something like that

Anyone had any experience printing snapcaps? Just whipped this up according to the SAAMI specs, think it'll work? might wanna thin it down a bit to make sure it doesn't stick.

>>1462873
They might wear a lot faster than regular ones and you'll want to print it in that orientation shown to avoid case separation, but it'll probably work for a while.

>>1462873
Print it 100% infill and leave a primer pocket. Fill the pocket with silicon caulk. Works great for me.

>>1462908
Why go that far? It's not like PLA's gonna fuck up a firing pin now is it?

Sup /diy/, I'm looking to buy a printer with some money I got for my birthday and I'd like your recommendations. Of the following 4 printers:
1) Monoprice Mini
2) Ender 3
3) i3 MK2S
4) i3 MK3
Which is the most worth the price? The first two are priced almost equally and the latter two I'm wondering if the 3 is worth the extra $150. Kits and tweaking settings aren't an issue really.

>>1462934
Depends how much printing you want to do and how much money you want to spend.

Pretty big price difference between the first two and last two there. 2 and 4 beat out 1 and 3 respectively, but all of them are great choices.

>>1462941
I'd be using it more like a tool than a hobby thing, so I'd be printing replacement parts or prototypes with it, probably once a month or so. I've gotten rid of the MP Mini and MK3 (Ender 3 is the same price and better per your recommendation, and the MK2S is probably fine for my use case). So between the Ender 3 and the MK2S, which would be the better option? Or another printer, if you want to recommend one. Budget is $750, but cheaper at similar quality is a plus.

Finally got this investment casting shit down
(Except for the air bubbles)

I'm trying to print cute key chains for the machines at work but at the end of the print the wheel, the last bit to be printed, melts onto the print head and comes out looking like a soft serve ice cream. I'm printing PLA at 220 degrees centigrade. Is it too hot?

>>1462989
>casting a turbine
You going to use it for anything or just as a decorative piece? Probably won't work real well since it's not smoothed but maybe it will.

>>1462994
It's not the smoothness, as long as it can handle the RPM's, is perfectly balanced, and has good enough tolerances to create a good seal it ought to be ok.

>>1462994
>>1462997
This was cast out of lead and most certainly will not handle the design speed of ~120,000 RPM

>>1462991
I print PLA at 190 C

>>1462991
.
220 sounds a bit on the high side but still within spec for PLA. I print it at 210C but remember the print temp isnt always accurate because printers dont have accurate sensors. i recommend printing a temp tower and see how that turns out.

>>1462989
>>1462994
Smoothness can be dealt with, just hand polish it down.
>>1462997
Smoothness makes a pretty goddamn big difference. The difference between laminar and turbulent flow is huge. If you can cast it in aluminum, you could make a pretty good compressor

>>1462813
No idea, every video I've seen just says they got terrible stringing from using CR10 profile. Bought my printer a couple days ago and did some research of well known problems with it beforehand.

>>1462989
These Australian posters man...

>>1463059
It was right on my goddamn phone I don't know why it keeps roo'ing my pics

>>1463063
Its okay, i dont have problem with Aussies.

>>1462683
What if you are more than enthusiast tier?

>>1462786
Yes. I downloaded the thing from their website and tried opening it in my files thing. It just keeps installing.

>>1462766
I do not know how to pirate or torrent.

>>1462989
>airbubbles
Vaccume chamber anon.

>>1462832
Much better than my first benchy on my A8, boyo. Good work.
Also, be sure to print "figure.gcode" included in the "english instructions" folder on your Anet sd-card.

So, for us folks about weather hurricane florence, what are some good last minute prints before the power potentially goes out?

Any must-have survival gear?
Cool rain catchers to make use of the torrential downfall?
Rubber duckies & benchies to float in flooded basements?

>>1463224
200mm x 200mm S.O.S. signs, they will save lives im sure of it.
Rape whistles for when the looters come.
Flexie rexes to play with whilst the looters rape.
A shim for that one fucking leg of the kitchen table thats just ever so short.
Dont let nature kill you anons, stay safe.

>>1462846
>>1462847
Molding and casting seems like a pain in the butt for a €200,- project.

>>1462852
Got any specific ones in mind that don't fail a lot?

>>1462870
The goal is to show that the firearm is clear (=no live cartridge in the chamber) from 10 feet away. A flag is much more obvious than a piece of string.

>>1462910
No, but any PLA crumbs that get inside your bolt are a PITA to clean up, and when they get hot they gum up actions.

>>1463232
>seems like a pain in the butt for a €200,- project.
You can get the materials for the mold you need and probably about 1/4 of the casts for ~$30 USD, and the resin for molding is probably ~$15-40 total for the remaining amount. It's really quite easy - you'd only need to do one pour since it's a flat part and doesn't need detail on both sides (I would assume).

>>1463237
Right, just need to figure out how to color it bright orange then, but there's dyes for that. I'll just make a one sided mold with five or six slots, that'll speed up the process.

I need to print a thing that is lots of small parts but they keep comming off the bed because they have shit contact area.
I tried increasing bed temp to 85C so i hope it will help.
PLA glass transition is like 60C or some shit so surely it won't come off if it's like half melted at 85C.
Fucking printers. Consumer ready my ass. This shit is at the same stage as first cars were. Unreliable and shit.
Can't wait for replicators to hit the market in 50 years.

>>1463402
>surely it won't come off if it's like half melted at 85C
Yeah, and if your bed is that hot you'll also get really bad elephants foot on your parts.

True though, the idea that 3D printing just werks is a meme. The only plug and play printers right now are the enterprise ones, but they're complex to the point of being non-user serviceable. Manufacturer has to send out a specialist when they break down.

But seriously, once you've passed the learning curve and understand all the slicer settings and limitations of 3D printing everything becomes a whole lot easier.


Oh and by the way you should use brims or rafts for small parts, pretty obvious solution there. Or, alternatively, you could set the first layer bed temp higher, say 65-70 and then lower it to 50-60 for the remainder of the print. Or put some elmers glue / painters tape on the bed for better adhesion. Like I said—you have to get past the learning curve.

>>1463288
>color it bright orange
Alcohol-based dyes work well, they're little dropper bottles and <$5 each; you only need one or two drops per cast, usually, so they last a while.

If you do decide to go the casting route, I'd be happy to help, just post in this thread

My first real print on the ender 3 and you could say my first real print ever. Fuck this machine rocks. I wish I had the guts to print it without supports, they're way too strong and ruined the bottom surface.

>>1463419
Dimensional accuracy is bang on. Not so sure about those pins though, they looks very slightly warped from being printed in the diagonal.

>>1463402
Use glue stick. Apply 3 layers, allowing glue to dry between application. Use alternating patterns when putting glue on

>>1463430
I have the opposite problem, shit is sticking too good to my heated bed fake buildtak surface.

Bed is heated to 60C, should I just leave it at room temp?

>>1463436
You could. Or try increasing the first layer height by either z offset in software or manually lowering the bed. Or try a glass bed.

>>1463436
Don't use heated bed unless you have to. Heated bed is the biggest energy waster on a 3d printer, and can make bridging difficult. Only use it if you're having problems with stuff not sticking to bed. With PLA, glue is more than enough.

>>1463437
The distance between the bed and the (clean) nozzle should be the width of a standard piece of paper. Raise the bed/lower the nozzle until you can barely drag the paper back and forth. If you have problems with clogging on the first layer then the nozzle is too close to bed. If prints arn't sticking and you can clearly see gaps between the filament lines on the bottom of the print, the nozzle is too high.

Poor as FUCK.
My budget's 160CAD and these two are basically what I saw.
They've both got dual-rail drives, so it doesn't look too bad.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/TRONXY-XY-100-Portable-Desktop-3D-Printer-Kit-DIY-Self-Assembly-MK10-Extruder-2004A-LCD-Screen/32915389823.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.102.511b1321XFPfEV&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10065_10068_10130_10547_10059_10548_10696_100031_10084_10083_10103_451_452_10618_10139_10307,searchweb201603_45,ppcSwitch_5&algo_expid=3fc7384a-72d9-4888-ad24-d864b3f0e145-16&algo_pvid=3fc7384a-72d9-4888-ad24-d864b3f0e145&priceBeautifyAB=0
130*120*140mm print size.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hot-Sale-Tronxy-P802E-3D-Printer-DIY-kits-Bowden-Extruder-MK3-heatbed-3D-Printing-PLA-ABS/32787409946.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.9.52b51321kSkvJY&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10065_10068_10130_10547_10059_10548_10696_100031_10084_10083_10103_451_452_10618_10139_10307,searchweb201603_45,ppcSwitch_5&algo_expid=95ab4e34-7fed-4586-bb22-e64b5786f039-1&algo_pvid=95ab4e34-7fed-4586-bb22-e64b5786f039&priceBeautifyAB=0
220x220x210mm print size.

Which one do you anons recommend? Any alternatives for the price?

>>1463529
save for a few more weeks/months so you don't hate your cheapass shit machine.

Do i get a Photon, WanhaoD7 or Micromake?

>>1463529
The cheaper the printer the shittier time you're gunna have, and then you're gunna think 3d printing is retarded and you're gunna hate yourself for even buying a printer. Save up your money for something in the $500 range if you're serious about getting into 3d printing. If you're not serious then don't buy a printer.

>send this to a few places for quotes
>get two hits back so far
>one place wants 2k, yeah thats rights, two thousand american dollars
>other place says their printing is a bit to small for some thing that's about 10"x"10"10" but says they can refer

who is in the wrong here?

>>1463651
Print it in parts instead and assemble it? It's basically just plates and tubes dude, I don't think you even really need a 3D printer for this except for the insides of the tubes.

>>1463654
>>1463654
OH, the second place said they wouldnt recommend it. well i still have one more place to go. let's say i did do it that way though, what would be the best way to assemble the parts? glue? screws? maybe i could try finding someone with a printer on craigslist?
>I don't think you even really need a 3D printer for this except for the insides of the tubes.
im just toying with the idea since someone suggested it at it seems interesting. i really dont fucking want to make it out of wood at this point

>>1463655
If you really want to 3D print it, why not use ABS and then acetone weld the pieces together? Also it sounds like this model's huge, try splitting it up into more pieces that would fit on most printers. Use registration pins and holes to fit them together after printing.

>>1463651
Online print shops are a joke. Try finding some place local, or ask around and see if a friend of a friend has a printer you could commission. I was curious once about what I should be charging for printing stuff for my friends and coworkers, and the piece (which I charged my coworker $6 for) was costing anywhere from $40 to $300 online, shipping not included. I ended up making pic related to fairly charge people.

>>1463651
Protip: if you 3d print that, the walls on the sides are going to snap off if you breathe too hard on them.

>>1463449
>>1463456
Fuck part failed halfway through with the bed turned off, it came off stuck to the nozzle and turned into a big blob of shit on the hotend.

>>1462945
I have an mk2s, it's great. just autocalibrate and your prints will come out perfect

>>1463651
What the fuck is that supposed to be?

>>1463671
yeah in my original design (when i was considering using wood) >>1456623 i was going to account for that. i figured if it was that bad someone would point it out. maybe i could just fill the space in between the walls and cylinders up to where i need them unattached? theyre basically going to snug in between the seat cushions and the center console on either side

>>1463670
its starting to look like that. i was thinking looking around on craigslist or posting on craigslist

>>1463658
>If you really want to 3D print it, why not use ABS and then acetone weld the pieces together?
this sounds like its crossed the 'too complicated' threshold on my end. if i were to fill the gaps between the walls and cylinders and break it its to three pieces (the table, and two triangle cylinder whatevers) could i attach them with pins?

>>1463688
check the thread in the other quote

>>1463698
Anon, you could just epoxy a flat surface to some cups, some foam on the sides of the cups for a snug fit. You're over complicating things.

But yes, you could pin it together.

Test fitting some snap clips, not ideal having them bend in the z axis but what can you do.

>>1463701
true but ill be using this a LOT. i dont want to have to rely on some thing thats glued. if 3d printing doesnt work, ill just resort to building it with wood. filled in some area around the cylinders so that the wall has more support. how would i go about pinning these together? could i not just screw the two legs from the top with some flathead screws?

>>1463710
Bam, great success. It took me a couple of days mulling over a hardware free design, but the results speak for themselves. Can you believe they sell shit like this for 100 euros?

Unfortunately the magnets become a bit too weak with the layers in between.

>>1463717
You could screw it together, but if you want to pin stuff you have to model it as two separate parts.

>>1463722
ah that makes sense. ill just detach the table part then and see if i can get a price from them. thanks

>>1463718
What the fuck is it

>>1463744
Occulus rift cord holders?

>>1463744
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nmfNtFyT2w0

Ignore the ratlike creature.

>>1463415
I have access to an Up Mini 2 that is definitely "plug and play"

>>1463748
I outright hate the trend of people using " ?! " or similar in video titles, most of the time it just tips me off that the creator is a dipshit who makes clickbait videos and takes 10 minutes to explain a 30 second topic

>>1463766
it's the open mouth video thumbnail, but in text form

How well should paper slide under nozzle?
If i adjust the screws where the paper gives decent resistance then the nozle rams into the bed a little bit every time it leaves it and comes back

>>1463844
Don't use paper, use 0.1mm steel strips or learn to eyeball it.
If you still have negative nozzle-bed clearance, just start backing off to the point where you have proper adhesion and no damage to your bed.

>>1463845
>, just start backing off to the point where you have proper adhesion and no damage to your bed.
that would require starting multiple prints just to level the bed. YOu have to level the bed like twice a week or more often and that would drive even a sane man crazy pretty fast

>>1463847
>that would require starting multiple prints just to level the bed.
I have a single layer, 1mm width square and circle for this exact purpose.
>You have to level the bed like twice a week
I can't even remember the last time I leveled my UM2's bed. Git gud scrub.

>>1463847
If you're leveling your bed that frequently then you have a problem. Last time I leveled mine was over a month ago and that was just because I had it apart working on it.
Get a better printer / fix your bed.

>>1463845
>eyeball it
>0.01mm gap
whoah, hold on there Hawkeye, shouldn't you be saving the earth from thanos instead of giving 3d printing advice?

>>1463850
>0.01mm
More like 0.1 - 0.2mm
First layer height should be roughly the same or a little thicker than your regular print layer height.

And if you do live leveling, eyeballing it before doing the first leveling print works just fine. To be fair though, I still use paper to get it close before I fine tune it with a few leveling prints.

>>1463847
>>1463848
>>1463849
>>1463850
>>1463851
Why is everyone here so poor?
8mm inductive sensor costs about $5

Why do people use gimmicks like bult taks and tape and shit?
I am printing directly on a mirror and did close to 1000 prints on it without a single problem.
When the bed is hot the plastic literally feels like if it is superglued to it and once it cools down i can literally detach the print with a flick of my finger

>>1463847
Dude, the only time i have to level my bed is when i take aoart my printer or do maintenance. Your bed should not be loosing it's level that fast.

>>1463853
>poor
Lol nah, try lazy. I've had a bltouch on my todo list for a while now. I just can't be assed to reflash my firmware so I haven't bought one yet. Also, doesn't software bed leveling require you to print with a raft for it to work? I don't always want to waste plastic on a raft when my part doesn't need it.

Another option is of course to print a dial gauge mount to attach to the print head when manually leveling. Again though, I'm lazy.

>>1463863
Interesting. I still sometimes have to use a little glue stick on my glass bed for difficult parts.

Flexible removable beds are pretty cool for removing stuck down parts; no need to worry about shattering / chipping a glass bed or stabbing yourself with a putty knife. And some plastics can bond to the glass and take chunks out of it when removing, so tape or thick glue is required in that instance.

>>1463864
i live in an old wooden house and there are lots of mice here.
during the night they crawl around the printer (i can tell by the mouse poo poos around it) and on the bed leveling knobs, turning them very very slightly, which over the days adds up causing the bed to come out of level

interesting, turns out that having the nozzle so close to the bed it creates elephant foot actually makes the bottom layer adhere WORSE than having the nozzle higher up
that is fascinating

Shit pic but here is my uterus /3dp/

>>1463853
>UM2
>Poor

>>1463863
If you adjust a glass bed properly, it's great. Only problems that arise come from special filaments such as ABS, but there's adhesive solutions for that.

>>1463867
Disgusting. Either you keep too much food around your printer or your mice problem is so bad that they're venturing out of the kitchen / pantry. Have you tried removing the mice, or at least getting a cat?

>>1463872
lolwut
That better be in the collage next thread.

>>1463873
>ABS
>special
Mhm. Continue.

>>1463853
Not poor, well definitely not as well off as I should be, but incredibly new to this
How well do those work? Now that I know they exist I'm on the edge of ordering one

>>1463848
>I can't even remember the last time I leveled my UM2's bed. Git gud scrub.
Uppgrade to 2+ or put in a custom extruder.

t. someone who is involved with Ultimaker

>>1463844
>>1463847
The paper should drag on the nozzle but you should be able to move it without it catching. If your bed needs to be leveled that often, try using locktite on your bed screws

>>1463872
Are you thew grill scratching up anons printbed?

>>1463884
Remember when PLA was new and wierd and we tried to figure out how to print with this strange stuff?

>>1463851
>First layer height should be roughly the same or a little thicker than your regular print layer height.
This is how you get your prints to not stick to your bed

>>1463870
>elephant foot actually makes the bottom layer adhere WORSE than having the nozzle higher up
False. And most slicers have settings to prevent that, by printing the first layer smaller on the x/y axis.

>>1463844
I use a regular, clean, uncoated business card; For me, the perfect height is when the nozzle "bites" the card without damaging it but can still be freely moved around.

>>1463845
I don't recommend using steel because it might scratch your coating or nozzle.

>>1464031
What was new and weird about it? Seems pretty straightforward, I can't imagine what problems they could have had past temperature, I'm intrigued.

>>1464052
Heres a bit from 2010

>>1464031
>>1464052
>>1464057
Lets be honest, 3d printing wasn't even a thing before the development of PLA. The first machines coming out of china once the patents expired were printing with ABS which produced terrible results with poor accuracy. They couldn't even be considered for use as prototypes.

PLA itself is a more exciting development than 3d printing; completely sourced from plant matter, fully recyclable, biodegradable and as strong as fossil fuel based plastics. Even the temperature resistance improves once tempered. Bioplastics are going to change the world.

>>1464068
Ever heard of "near net shape", anon? A lot of metal printers have shit accuracy for their use-cases (aerospace or precision) so they have to be post-processed to make what you want. The "terrible results with poor accuracy" were probably also post-processed, e.g. for larger models which would be too expensive to traditionally make.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Near_net_shape

>>1464068
>The first machines coming out of china once the patents expired
Horribly misinformed.
>PLA itself is a more exciting development than 3d printing
1954 called they want their new exiting materials back.
Here is the kicker, you can synthesize pretty much any plastic from plants if you set your mind to it.

>>1463965
All high end printers use them for auto leveling. If your bed is not metal though you will need the one with the little metal penis that comes out and touches the bed

>>1464075
Would it serve a purpose on a manually leveled bed?
How could I go about rigging my MP mini to auto level, it seems right about impossible thinking about it

>>1464028
Lol no, she doesn't post on this board
Feels kind of weird to be called out like that desu

>>1464099
>Would it serve a purpose on a manually leveled bed?
It would compensate slight misalignment and bumps of the bed. Depending on what hardware you are using it can display the bed with its height errors, making it super easy to level the last bit manually.

>>1463872
Yes caitlyn, you can be a real woman now thats to the wonders of 3d printing.

Any DnD players here? I've been printing a bunch of mini's for my game and I was hoping you would have some suggestions on good minis

>>1464177
Not characters but check out heroshoard.com and hobgoblin3d.com for scenery and tiles

>>1464073
On paper sure, the chemical symbols can do all kinds of magical shit that doesn't work in real life. To find the proper catalysts and refine the process conditions for an economically feasible product takes extensive research. Cellophane has been around for almost a century but the toxic process for creating it makes it a shit bioplastic.

>>1464189
I've actually printed out a couple of the free prints from hero's hoard a while back. Unfortunately the buildings are a bit too big for my tiny printer so i'd have to scale the parts down a bit. Thanks, though

>>1464197
The buildings? As in the ravens hollow houses?
Those are huge, but the rest of his stuff is wonderful, especially the "true tiles stuff, the LGS we normally play at paid me to print off a bunch if the stuff so they could use it for adventure league after I let one of the DMs borrow my set

New to printing and just bought an Ender 3 to start learning with

Already realized the bed is shit and sinks in the middle so I have a glass one on the way to hopefully help.

I printed my first print like this in the picture and it ended up breaking away from the bed during printing

what would be my next move to trouble shoot this?

I guess my first few layers isn't enough to hold it to the bed securely.

>>1464208
try using a brin or raft to icnrease surfaceare to the printsurface. if your extruder itself is knocking it over, there is somethign else wrong tho

>>1464213
i'll try this next and keep an eye on it while printing to see if my extruder hits

I was using the stock cura settings so i dunno

>>1463717
this guy again, just got a quote for the thing separated into 3 pieces. 38 hours at $19 an hour but for large print its $10 for $380 plus tax. guess ill have to go with wood for this one

>>1464228
Anon, what infill percentage are you putting on that thing?

What do you guys think of pic related? I'm very new to 3D printing, but it's not an insane price to jump in and I'll eventually be using it to prototype toys, so I don't wanna buy a $150 one and upgrade later.

>>1464208
>>1464215
Do you have the bed heat turned on? I was printing at 60C bed heat and shit was stuck so good that I gouged the bed with the scraper while trying to get my print off.

Trying a test print at 40C now to see if I can find a sweet spot between glued on and pops off with a breeze.

>>1464208
Scroll up, there was like 5 anons talking about this a bit ago.

>>1463717
>>1464228
Holy fuck it took me this long to realize what you were talking about when I asked what the fuck that was supposed to be; you could've just said a table to play video games on in the car and I would've immediately told you how stupid you were for coming up with such a bad design.

1. You don't need those flat boards on the side if you're going to be filling in the cup holders.
2. Of course wood is what you should use, the other anon who told you to 3d print it in your original thread is a dumbass.
3. Those massive round things are not necessary, all you're trying to do is securely hold the part using the edges of the cup holder.

Here I took a couple of minutes to design something that you can make out of wood. Wood screws and wood glue are so much stronger than anything you'll get out of a 3d printer. The hardest part will be that square piece with the sloped sides that fits into the cup holder slot, shouldn't be too hard to file down a a square piece of pine with a rasp or whittle it into shape with a knife.

>>1464235
well i didnt really get to say. its just enter contact info and drop the stl file and they tell you wtfever. theres a comment box usually but i didnt leave anything specific. but i think this for

>>1464285
fucking kek. but seriously that little 'notch filler' thing looks VERY pivoty. stability is toppest priority. wouldnt a combo of both the notch and bases going into the cups be better? i mean its fucking wood. i can just add shit as i go. and since we're talking about it. i doubt i can manage getting some perfect round dowels in there. i was thinking just getting some 4"x4" timer and sawing the corners down until i get something thats snug

>>1464297
Unless your center console is rounded at the top it isn't going to go anywhere. That's why there's a flat board on top of the notch filler.

If you want to use the cup holders then you don't need something round, you just need to cut the side profile of the cup holder from a board. What you're trying to do is constrain movement in the two horizontal directions and rotations. Side to side movement and rotation is taken care of by the side boards, front to back movement and rotation can be controlled with two trapezoids that fit into the cup holders.

>>1464256
I can tell you whats bad about it
>140x140x140mm buildspace is small
>plasic frame
and most importantly
>no heated bed

>>1463417
>If you do decide to go the casting route, I'd be happy to help, just post in this thread
Just need to finish test fitting my prototype, it fits in 2/3 chambers, but there's a third manufacturer I haven't gotten access to, and I think that'll have different dimensions for the loading port.

I'm probably not going to make a silicone mold though. My university has a small gantry CNC mill for 3/4mm milling, and I have some spare aluminium, that seems a lot easier for a mold that can fit 5-6 chamber flags. I can use the CNC machine to mill out the flag and rim of the cartridge, then use it to put a center dot right in the middle. I can then use a column drill with a 20.2mm drill (?) to remove the main part of the casing from the mold. Then it's just a matter of making 200 units. Pic related is the drawing for the mold I have so far, it's easy peasy.

>>1464099
>manually leveled bed
the whole point of it is to avoid having to manually level the bed every week because it's incredibly tedious, specially if you have several build plates with different thicknesses
to make it work you have to reflash the firmware in the printer

>>1464364
heated bed can be added for $15
plastic frame has 0 effect on print quality
14 cm can be perfectly fine if you only want to make key chains and shit

>>1464422
all of this is true. Still, this is whats bad about the printer. Not saying that there is any printer that has nothing bad about it.

>>1464422
>14 cm can be perfectly fine if you only want to make key chains and shit
How much clearance do I need if I wanna make like a gun receiver that's 5 inches

>>1464439
i don't know how much is it in non-retard units?

>>1464439
Are you retarded? If you wanna print a 10cm object you neet atleast 10cm of space and so on. This ain't rocket science.

>>1464268
Updating on ender 3 bed adhesion. Did a successful print at 45c that pulled off with slight hand pressure. One corner of the brim was peeling off though. Maybe I will up the temp to around 50.

Kind of pissed now that I didn't try a bunch of calibration settings before. The gouge I put into the bed when parts were welded on at 60C could have been entirely avoided.

>>1464444
5 inches.

>>1464446
I thought there might be some clearance requirements like 10cm of specified space, but only like 8 or so is actually usable. I've found a lot of issues like that in other things so thought it might apply here.

I'm going to try to print this free energy generator
wish me luck
https://pinshape.com/items/27184-3d-printed-self-powered-motorgenerator-arduino-speedvoltage-controled

>>1464527
Good luck, I hope you won't be too disapointed

>>1464533
Why would i be dissapointed by never having to pay a single more dime to the electric jews ever again?

>>1464534
because after
>To make the coils cost me 1 week of winding with the coil winder
you might find yourself tricked out of a lot of spare time.

>>1464489
The useful space depends on how good your bed adhesion is, a lot of people use brims which stick out from the base of the model by some mm to have a base layer with more surface area.

Still the bed on that flashforge is tiny compared to even the cheapest of machines.

>>1464527
I WILL NOT REPLY TO ANY COMMENT LIKE ´´READ SOME FISICS LAWS´´ OR´´ ITS IMPOSIBLE TO PUT 1 VOLT IN TO A MACHINE AND GIVE YOU 2 V´´.

I don't know where to begin with this

>>1463167
Run the downloaded file once, after that you should run it from the installed link in your start menu on your OS.

>3 prints with my ender 3 and all of them pop off the bed 3/4 through printing

I don't know what to do...I have leveled and leveled it as much as I can with this shit bed (ordered glass)

printed at 50c, 60, and 70.

I think its the extruder with the PLA coming out and cooling down rapidly and pulling the print off.

Trying another with 210 extruder heat

Model is coming out great besides not finishing lol

I used to be able to use default resin settings in Creation Workshop and get a decent print every time. Something happened last week to the printer and the resin no longer hardens with the default exposure settings. Only if I crank up the time each layer is exposed to UV light I get a usable print. If I use default settings for my resins (Wanhao Gray, Monocure Rapid Clear) then the D7 just prints in air - the resin doesn't harden.

Have anyone experienced this before? There's nothing on the Internets.

The display looks OK - it's not cracked or detached. I also replaced the film at the bottom of the tray. The only reason I can think of is the UV LED burning out or something.

>>1464649
You might want to make sure that the nozzle is exactly 0.1mm above every corner of the hotbed.

If you want the prints to stick better to the platform you can increase the hotbed temperature. If you print too cold then the bottom of the model will warp and therefore pop off the build platform.

If you add supports to the print there's more stuff holding the model in place therefore it's less likely to pop off.

>>1464653
well thats the thing about the ender 3

The middle of the hotbed sinks in ALOT compared to the corners so I leveled it more towards the center this time.

this time around I hear it crackling and popping when the nozzle is running across the model, just gonna be trail and error

>>1464658
I own a Prusa i3 (bought as a DIY kit) and always crank up the hotbed temperature to max as it's never hot enough. You need more surface area as well. I would add circles around the feet.

>>1464665
This is how I print it

Right now I hear about 75% less popping at 70c and 210c on the nozzle

>>1464669
I also break up the bottom layer to something that looks like the image. If there are holes in it then it's less likely to warp. But you need Blender or some other 3D software to create the mesh as the slic3r software doesn't understand this.

>>1464650
>The only reason I can think of is the UV LED burning out or something.
This might be the answer.

>>1464678
I only bought it a month ago. It's kind of strange for it to crap out so quickly.

Are there other variables involved? Do the resins drift their exposure time as they get strained and reused?

>>1464649
>just the two feet
Try a raft.

Modelled and printed some stands for my Game Boy collection
Hope you like those!

>>1464669
It looks like you're printing with 100% infill?

If that massive brim doesn't work then something is wrong, my prints become pretty much glued onto the bed at 60C. By popping you mean you hear the model cooling down and developing stress fractures? Or is the nozzle actually hitting the model when it prints?

>>1464649
Looks like you have 100% infill; you can probably drop that down to 20 or less and still get a usable figure (when you solve your detachment problem)

>>1464843
I have that issue with the nozzle hitting the print, maybe i was printing too fast or something

So this isn't really 3D printing, but I thought you guys would know something about it.
I have a 3D model that has a threaded part. I want to know what the actual thread dimensions are, but I know nothing about CAD software. Is there any way to measure it on my computer?

>>1464961
What format/file extension is the 3D model?

>>1464963
STL.

>>1464968
You should be able to import it into Blender and measure it with the tools there. Google "blender measure distance" and you should be fine.

>>1464969
So will I be able to get the pitch as well as the diameter in blender? I know it's a metric thread if that matters.

Finally got the chance to put my printer back together with the new hotend and everything seems to be attached and working fine, but the heat break isn't very tight and I'm worried about it coming loose
The nozzle is butted up against it tight in the heating block, but the lightest tap to the thermistor wire and the whole block will shift in one direction

>>1464977
Last thread someone said it needs to be heated to 150c and then you tighten it.

>>1464970
Technically, yes; it's a little bit roundabout and you might have to get creative (by making geometry that just about matches the imported model) depending on how it looks, but it should still be usable data.

>>1464910
No, if your nozzle is hitting the print then you have mechanical issues of some kind. Did you make sure that the gantry for the hot end was square before tightening the screws on the plates holding the rollers?

If you aren't paying attention during assembly the x axis can droop by a couple of cm.

Other things to check are slop in any of the axis, like if you can shift the build plate side to side then the rollers are too lose. Check the condition of the z limit switch since it's used to reset the zero of the machine with every print.

>>1464977
>>1464987
How to properly attach a new hotend:
>When cold, put the nozzle in so it has 0.5-1.0mm left before it butts up against the heater block
>Insert heat break untill it sits snug against the nozzle
>Heat the entire hotend up to print temp
>Tighten the nozzle to 1 Nm
Done. Nozzle should now clamp the heat break in place, with no more room for thermal expansion in the hotend to make anything loose (since you're already at print temp).

>>1464406
This is how that mold is going to look from the underside, it'll be open so I can poke the castings out.

Can I just leave it on a flat surface, or will the polyurethane resin leak out from underneath? I guess I could bolt on a removable plate on the bottom so it's sealed up, but I don't know if that's even necessary. Any help?

Making a mousetrap. The annual winter wars are beginning. But this time i am going high tech

>>1465032
thanks for the tips
I'll check it out when i have more time. Exactly how tight should those rollers be? Should it roll with just a slight pressure or be really stiff?

How long does it take you're beds to go from room temp ti print temp?

>>1465095
Ultimaker 2 (220x220mm): 3-5 minutes, depending on which one I grab.
Tractus T3000 (1000mm round): Start it, grab a coffee, finish coffee, take a shit, we're almost at 60 deg C.

>>1465067
good luck

>>1465039
Interesting thank you
Are you supposed to do that anytime you remove the nozzle or just when you take the whole heat block off? I had to replace the hotend because I had a gap between the heartbreak and the nozzle and I guess I know why now

>>1465188
When you remove the nozzle, you should always do so at printing temp. Filament in the hotend could break parts when it's cool, and thermal shrink of the heater block might overtighten evverything to the point where breaking the nozzle loose may cause damage.

But no, you don't need to remove the entire hotend just to replace a nozzle. As long as the heat break is seated to the correct depth, you can just heat it up, pull the nozzle out and put a new one in.

Woo, page 7, better start working on that collage.

Can printer print a hole standing up? Normally print shit like hula hoops lying down, but can a printer manage to print a circular hole like that standing up without support?

>>1465202
Depends on the printer. Most don't have a problem bridging straights up to 2mm, and round shapes (like holes) up to about 5mm diameter.

finished my first successful print

I am amazed at how well the ender 3 did on small details like the fingers

just had to print at 210 and 70

>>1465041
>Can I just leave it on a flat surface, or will the polyurethane resin leak out from underneath? I guess I could bolt on a removable plate on the bottom so it's sealed up, but I don't know if that's even necessary. Any help?
Use polypropylene sheets as the surface you are setting your mold face down against, then put some heavy weights on the mold. Alternatively use aluminum ductwork tape to adhere the polypropylene sheet to the mold.

I used silicone molds and simply overfilled them with the resin, then added a sheet of silicone or polypropylene, then placed another mold on-top and filled it. I repeated this until I had a stack with a weight on top that would fit inside a pressure pot. Which I then closed and filled to 40psi.

New thread in case this dies: >>1465220

>>1465219
Is that sum Mann ease release?

Also post pics of those parts.

>>1465074
It should take some effort to make the rollers slip, like if you grab the wheel that is adjustable (it has a hex shaped boss that it's mounted on) and try to spin it by hand while preventing the axis from moving. Too tight isn't good either, will cause rapid wheel wear.

>>1465095
30 Seconds or so. Did you flip the little switch on your power supply to match your country's voltage?

>>1465095
A minute or two

>>1465202
The very top 2 or 3 layers inside the hole will be of poor quality and will require sanding, but yeah functionally it will be fine.

>>1465208
How tall is that figure and the layer height?

>>1465293
You are asking all the wrong questions. The only thging that matters is the nozzle diameter. With a 0.1mm nozzle you can easily print high res testicles on an ant

>>1465293
I printed it at .08 layer height with a .4mm nozzle

It is about an inch and a half tall

>>1465299
>.4mm nozzle
i hope this is a joke. .4mm nozzle is a buldozzer, you need a shovel for such small detail

>>1465297
Lol, you sound like an idiot.

>>1465299
Try a .2mm nozzle, you wont benefit from >0.1mm layer height with a 0.4mm nozzle.

>>1465303
it's the stock ender 3 nozzle which is .4mm

>>1465305
yeah I understand that but it still came out really well considering what it is, I am very happy with it

>>1465303
>.4mm nozzle is a buldozzer
Lolno, 0.4mm is tiny.

t. 1.2mm nozzle

>>1465223
>Is that sum Mann ease release?
It's the bee's knees. I've done some epoxy projects with printed parts as the mold and just sprayed them with Mann. Just had to cut the mold enough with a band saw to break it off the cured piece.

>>1460064
So is Ender 3 the defacto standard for sub <$200 3d printer? Are there any better right now?

>>1465459
1. Yes
2. At that price no.

You have to youtube known problems first though and assemble it properly. Also run calibration prints to dial it in for correct bed heat, print temperature, bed level etc.

>>1461076

If you are still here and interested;

I smoothed as mentioned earlier with filling and sanding.

for the mold and the cast, the general answer is silicone and ployurethane resin.

to be more specific,

Moldmax 40 by smooth on

and Smoothcast 305 + Aluminium hydroxide (sound fancy...it's just white dust) for the casting