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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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1460524 No.1460524 [Reply] [Original]

Hey /diy/

I want to reduce the amount of wires running through my house.
My current issue is with the washing machine, as it has no power sockets nearby and I have to use an extension cord to the electric box.

My idea is to use the wires that i already have connected to my water heater and just extend the power from there.
Now the wires at the water heater are colored as: Blue, Brown and Yellow-Green.

My question is: If I want to extend the power from the current cables should I just connect Blue to Blue, Brown to Brown and Yellow-Green to Yellow-Green?
I played factorio so I think that's how it works.

>> No.1460532

>>1460524
>should I just connect Blue to Blue, Brown to Brown and Yellow-Green to Yellow-Green?

that makes sense. what else would you do???

>> No.1460535

>>1460532
I am not entirely sure.
When I was young I heard someone say you need to mix the colors.

>> No.1460536

>>1460535

he was talking about mixing paint. don't forget the shot of black.

>> No.1460537

dont do it. both are high-current devices, so by running them in parallel you will almost certainly be over the ratings on the breaker and on the wires.

(i'm guessing you're in Yurop, but if you were in N. America, there would be an additional problem in that one works at 220V while the other at 120V. in Yurop, both would be 220V, so not an issue.)

>> No.1460538

>>1460537
What if I just use thicker wires?

>> No.1460551

>>1460538

thicker wires and a stronger breaker will do the job. there are tables and calculators on the web for determining the wire gauge based on the current.

>> No.1460554

>>1460551
>thicker wires and a stronger breaker will do the job.

and violate the code, and if it burns down, no insurance. You cannot feed a 30 amp breaker into a 20 amp outlet, and the outlets are fixed unless he goes crazy and puts new connectors on both devices.

>> No.1460574
File: 507 KB, 172x172, 1517603320417.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1460574

>>1460524
>Current issue

>> No.1460579

>>1460574
He's one of those people that incorrectly uses the word "issue" when he means "problem."

>> No.1460660

>>1460524
OP, you should probably consider installing an actual outlet where the washing machine is, on it's own circuit, rather than piggyback on the one for the water heater, which I'm pretty sure needs to be on it's own separate circuit.

>> No.1462932
File: 13 KB, 408x244, ringcircuit2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1462932

>>1460554
>Not just putting breakers everywhere where the load is used rather than centrally
We have a system like this in the UK. Which is why our plugs are enormous absolute units. They have a replaceable fuse in them meaning a 32 amp circuit is used to feed loads like lamps and appliances. Don't think this is done anywhere else though

>> No.1462944

>>1460524
You can do that if you can find a way to turn off the power to the water heater while you are running the washing machine.

>> No.1463046

>>1460524
Tell us what country your in for codes.

>> No.1463071

ITT: how to cause injury and/or burn down the house

OP you are a moron seriously

>> No.1463079

>>1460524
Is your hot water on a off peak meter? This will limit when you could use your machine if it is. Maybe use a pro for this, doing /diy/ electrical is pretty frowned upon where I'm from.

>> No.1463081

>>1460524
I'm not a sparky, but I'm thinking OP could safely do this by extending the circuit with wire properly rated for the breaker--which I would double check if you're not the first homeowner because some idiots will increase the breaker size rather than fix the problem if it keeps tripping. If you add a 20A GFCI outlet for safe measure, I can't imagine why it wouldn't be safe. Probably not up to code, but not gonna burn your house down.

>> No.1463093

>>1460524
I don't know shit about shit, but I figure washing machines and water heaters are large appliances that use a lot of power. They may be on their own circuit for a reason.

You know what's not a reason? "I want to reduce the amount of wires running through my house"

>> No.1463094

>>1463046
ISO standards are:
Brown = Live
Blue = Neutral
Green/Yellow = Ground.
The colors were chosen because the pigments are stable and color-blind people can see the difference.
Brown will put you in the ground.
Blue is cold.
Green/Yellow is Ground.

>> No.1463254

>>1463094
And because dirt on any of the cables will make them look like live, making people be more cautions rather than less. NZ or Aus?

>> No.1463270

>>1460524
The size of the wire running to the water heater would need to be large enough to support the current draw of both the water heater and dryer and connected to an appropriate sized breaker. If thats already in place by some miracle, you're good.

>> No.1464337

>>1463270
just get some twine and the proper rated wire for your dryer/washing machine, tie the twine to the end of your wire, and run it along the existing wiring for your water heater, then extend it out to your washer/dryer, get the proper bracker/fuse kit for it and the proper plugin sockets on the appliance end, hook it all up except for the power box, and pay a electrician to look it over, OK it, and finish the wiring into the main power box. Unless you want a electrical fire/insurance denied claim

>> No.1465535

This thread hurts my head. If you don't like where the wire is ran run a new one where you want it. I don't know the coloring codes from your part of the world but this would be illegal in the U.S.

1. Not supposed to put 10 gauge wire on receptacles as they are only listed for 14 and 12.

2. Water heaters are a dedicated appliance on their own circuit.

3. Water heaters are typically 240V, 2 hots and a ground. Your washer needs a hot, neutral, and ground.

4. Water heaters are typically on a 30 amp breaker. It is illegal to power any regular outlet with a breaker size larger than 20A.

Don't mess with your electric.

>> No.1465555

>>1460524
I can fix it for you, OP. Let me know where you are, once I get boots on the ground I'll have you going in no time. Don't worry about price, we can take care of that once the job is done.

>> No.1465597
File: 2.75 MB, 2000x3008, breaker.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1465597

>>1462932
>Don't think this is done anywhere else though

Fuck I wonder why... How the shit is that superior to something like this?

>> No.1465853

>>1465597
They started doing it in the forties when they had a copper shortage.

>> No.1465914

>>1462944
If it is tankless, then you won't be able to clean your clothes with warm water

>> No.1465943

>>1465597
>How is a ring circuit superior to a breaker panel

wat

>> No.1465945

>>1465597
>How the shit is that superior to something like this?
ring final circuit isn't comparable to a distribution panel, they are completely different.
unless you are asking how uk electrical in general is superior to us the answer is only in about a billion ways.
it might interest someone to know that fusing down at the appliance isn't specific to ring final circuits, its done on radials too of course.
the benefit is for a) the consumer does't have to worry about socket types and sizes and b) the manufacturer can specify a smaller fuse and supply smaller csa cord.

typically breakers are expensive and costs add up, heavy circuits like kitchen (plenty of heating) might get their own breaker or perhaps a single freezer for uptime but otherwise its not unusual to see a whole level/floor of a house sockets on a single breaker.
Nuisance tripping is a non issue i have never experienced an ocp trip, current imbalance only because i fucked around with it.

>> No.1465961

>>1465943
>wiring your house in series like a giant string of christmas lights

>>1465945
Dunno that just seems so weird and kinda wrong. Having each room or each load on its own breaker makes a lot more sense.

>> No.1465970

>>1465943
Yeah, how?