/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>>1426031

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>>1432497
henlo

what is the hot new memes right now that i can be printing for cash?

>>1432608
3d printing is a meme in of it self, there's no way of making money off it even if you can model well.

Anyone know of good Anime / Hentai models to print?

They seem kinda rare.

>>1432654
Wew

Also interested
...asking for a friend

>>1432654
They are quite scarce indeed. Mby try to rip a model from a game? Probably difficult and you'd still need to modify the model to print it but it's an option.

>>1432497
How do you fix warping during the print on small parts out of PLA,

I am trying to print leadscrews and the corner of the current layer keeps curling up even after boxing in the print and heating the box with a hairdryer.

The only way I can get the screw to print is give it a small diameter and printing very fast so that the next layer is down before the previous one cools, but this makes them not very useful.

>>1432681
Have you tried a longer minimum layer time? PLA warps when it is hot or doesn't have enough time to cool, so you're doing the opposite of what you want to be doing by trying to keep the temp up. Also try pointing a house fan or box fan at your print if you can't or don't want to mess with the layer time.

>>1432654
why is your computer semen-cooled?

>>1432497
It is nice to inform others if you decide to alter the pasta.

You dropped SLS and SLA and added extruder section.

>>1432654
https://www.thingiverse.com/COLOR3DJP/designs
You'll need an account to see the lewd ones.

>>1432691
I turned layer time up to 10 seconds, fans all the way up, and dropped the nozzle down to 200C from 210C, and it is working a little bit better.

Although I am suspicious that the jaggies under the print are caused by the lower temp, I may have to increase it a bit.

Will printing really slowly help hold the plastic in place as it's cooling rather than quickly spitting out a layer and watching it contract?

Make sure you thank OP for making a decent thread.

>>1432717
>working a little bit better.
Glad to hear my advice helped. Judging from your pic, it looks like you have a very narrow cooling fan that only cools on one side. You might want to see if someone made a circular cooler that goes all around the nozzle for your printer. Check out the diiicooler on thingiverse for an example. It's one of the best single upgrades you can do for most printers.
>jaggies under the print
Not sure what you mean here. If you're talking about roughness in the surface of the print, see the above note about your cooling fan duct. Get a blower fan like the diiicooler too if you can. You may then be able to run a slightly higher filamment temp and get smoother results. If you were referring to the birm warping, your heated bed may be too hot. Also consider the big house fan idea. You really can't have too much cooling for PLA. The filament temp will be maintained by your nozzle until extruded. You want the best temp for your filament, then to cool it before it has a chance to sag, move or deform.
>Will printing really slowly help hold the plastic in place as it's cooling rather than quickly spitting out a layer and watching it contract?
See above, but in my experience cooling quickly is more important with PLA than print speed. Slowing your print speed is generally done to reduce vibration artifacts. I can't say for sure from your picture since the print is out of focus, but the surface bumps look more like layer endpoints than ghosting artifacts.

Yay! My induction baby is finally here! Fuck manual leveling.

>>1432834
I don't want to take my printer apart, do you think that sniping off the shitty inductive z stop and replacing it with the new one will be enough?

My empire continues to grow. I have a Nerf War coming up a week from Saturday and over a third of the people attending will be using my designs.

>>1432873
Add a grenade launcher under the barrel that shoots like a balloon filled with colored water

I'm gonna try printing from a solar panel. This should be fun.

>>1432961
This could be great. I could attach some straps to the printer and go hiking into the mountains while it's printing stuff

>>1432963
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=srVHzKsBguM

>>1432965
I envy her balls. I would never in a million years be able to even open the door to my apartment with that thing on my back.

>>1432973
It's easier for her, the printer weight is offset by her frontal counterweights.

>check on print
>extruder is flying around with a huge ball of molten plastic on it gluing on everything on its way
>FUCK
>clean up restart print
>20 minutes in it peels off
>restart again and again
>level the bed like 5 times
>still peels off
>wait a minute... i have been touching the bed while leveling it and the temp display is showing 68C, why isn't my hand covered in red blisters?
>the bed is actually 38temp because raspberry pi bed controller crashed and the display froze
FUCK FUCK FUCK i just wasted so much time and fucking plastic trying to print on a fucking COLD BED

>>1432965

I didn't watch the whole thing, so I'm sorry if she explained this, but why would you wear a 3d printer, other than just to do something weird?

>>1432981
You wouldn't. It's an excuse for her to post videos in slutty outfits on patreon and not get banned for posting links on the thirstier reddit boards.

>>1432981
What kind of stupid question is that?

>be thirsty
>fuck i don't have a bottle to put the fountain water in
>print a bottle
>want to watch a movie on a phone but dont want to hold it
>print a phone stand
>see a cute girl and want to fuck her but impotent
>print a dildo

any more dumb questions?

>>1432961
shit, the sun set and i went from 1A to 0.02A even though there is still almost just as much daylight

>>1432986
The point is to store the energy when you're not using it. Get some lithium batteries and a bms.

>>1432988
I know that. I have already lead deep cycle bats in the mail, but i was shocked to see how massively that fucker drops the second there isn't any direct sunlight even though there is still bright daylight outside.

>>1432873
>>1432935
is this whole board full of fucking children or what

>>1433001
>look at my 9to5 race wage cuckery, i also have a wife and kids and a mortgage and i planted a tree also
you have my genuine pitty

>>1433001
I mean, this IS 4chan. If you're expecting to find 40yr+ professional "additive manufacturing
and rapid prototyping enthusiasts" go to a trade show or conference. People are going to make hobby-related stuff, and as much as Nerf is marketed to kids, there's a sizeable population of adults that like it.

You don't have to stop liking things because you hit a certain age, you know.

>>1432648
This. Metal printing is the only thing that really matters. The rest of this shit is just cheap plastic garbage.

>>1433001
>I don't like fun
Oh, okay

Why am i even replying to baits

>>1432648
Wrong. The amount of money you can make only depends on your skills and willingness. Obviously you have none.
Look at the guy printing nerf guns with n printers.
Ive printed prototype parts for production line machinery and demo products before both went into actual production. My CR-10 brought back its price 10 times in 2 years. Of course i wouldnt rely only on it as my only income but its still good money.

>>1433004
Metal printing will never be in the households, you might have printing houses in the future who offers prints but thats far far away.

>>1433017
>Look at the guy printing nerf guns with 7 printers.
My product is very niche though.
It took me a year and 7 prototypes to get to the point where I could justify selling them (and their hardware kits. The printer wasn't step 1, it was just the most cost/labor-efficient means of producing the parts. I tried casting the parts for a while, but it was too involved.

Pic related is the original completely machined version. The plans are still available for that version but it costs quite a bit more in time and materials to produce than the printed version does.

>>1433003
>I mean, this IS 4chan. If you're expecting to find 40yr+ professional "additive manufacturing
and rapid prototyping enthusiasts"

I'm not 40 yet but over the years I've recognized quite a few R&D and other guys that I know from the industry shitposting here. I never shill for our products, this thread is just a hobby for me.

btw. I wrote about half of the pasta back in the day.


>>1433004
They are good for prototyping, iterative design and small scale production.

>>1433012
beautiful colour choices man!

Just ordered a Creality Ender 3 as my first 3D printer, anything I need to know like general tips or dumb mistakes to avoid?

So I'm trying some different smoothing ideas for PLA and hoped I could get some input.

Tons of sanding doesn't work alone.
Wood glue is a failure because it doesn't smooth enough and can crack off in a chunk putting you back to square one.
Bondo filler works fairly well.
Automotive filler primer also does okay.

So far the best thing has been bondo and automotive filler combo with a lot of sanding and layers as been the most effective. For sanding I've used fine grits, polish paper fine paper, and even car polish which is basically sanding paper goo.

No matter what I do so far I really can't get it to a polish. The 3D print lines are gone, but then it almost has a texture from the paint itself I can't seem to smooth out. Its fine, but its there.

Any suggestions? Wet sanding? Or some kind of polyurethane or lacquer maybe? (I've tried clear coat but that still didn't work)

>>1433048
You want a heavy clear coat. The paint texture is orange peel. Wet sanding 600-2500 grit then a polish will bring it to a shine.

A good heavy clear is gonna be a 2k clearcoat in a can. Only too heavy is when it runs lol.

>>1433051
>orange peel
That is a perfect description. I got it a little finer sanding with polish paper and seemingly smooth to the touch, but the minute I silicone cast it every hidden flaw suddenly appears.

I'll give that 2k clearcoat a try thank you. I've got a good area for applying in quick layers so running usually isn't an issue. Seriously you really may have saved the day here thank you, because I was getting stumped and really didn't want to resort to getting a resin printer.

Any recommendation on polish or just any turtlewax-ish thing will do?

>>1433061
>>1433048
Polyurethane spray works for me - goes on milky white but dries clear. Are you sure you're sanding enough (the coat, not raw PLA)? I've only gotten good, smooth results with 2000 grit and higher.

>>1433065
Sanding a small print for hours working downward to a few micron grit. It was smooth to the touch. But silicone will pick up a stray dust mote if you fuck it up so it takes near perfection.

If thicker clearcoat doesn't work I may just have to cast to resin, sand the resin, and then recast that.

>>1433032
I just got mine literally yesterday. I hope you ordered a glass plate to clip over the bed, because there's an 80% chance your bed’s warped and impossible to level. Here’s the borosilicate I got and it works a treat:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D6J92KB/
Plan to spend a lot of time leveling. After the bed's close with the paper method, use the free PLA it comes with to print some 1 layer test squares then tweak ‘til perfect.
For printing on glass: Clean the bed before & after every print with alcohol. If you still have peeling issues, try big brims, lowering base layer print speed, and/or a thin layer of glue where your part will be right before starting the print.

First few prints you should do are some mods for the printer.
https://all3dp.com/1/20-must-creality-ender-3-upgrades-mods/
These from that article are good:
>Board Fan Guard
>Filament Guide Snap In
>Cable Clip (the one that screws onto the Z stepper)

And search around for ender 3 stuff on youtube.

>>1433087
Thanks for the tips
This glass plate should do right? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wisamic-Borosilicate-220x220x3mm-Printers-Reprap/dp/B0777L4HWS it looks like it's a little smaller but I couldn't find the same one on Amazon UK

>>1433101
It probably would, but make sure you have some deep binder clips or something that can clip over the edge of the bed to hold it, or if permanent get some thermally conductive adhesive. And it'll lower your build area. You could search around for 235x235mm borosilicate plates, they come in all sizes.

Pic related is mine.

>>1433101
>>1433109
If you want something lazier get a 3M glue sheet, a PEI plastic sheet, and a cheap glass cutter to size it to your bed. I hated the glue stick mess of ass pain that was glass.

All you ever need to do is every 100 prints or so is swipe it once with light sand paper.

>>1432792
Thanks it means a lot. I was seething when I realised the degenerates had let the thread expire for hours without replacement.

>>1432980
Raspberry pi is the worst fucking meme ever:
>Piss poor performance
>SD cards which aren't meant for high read-write
>muh linoox ungentoo

Honestly ppl should stop using octoprint and just move to 32bit controllers.

>>1432980
>>1433158
Try AstroBox because I have no idea what you did to have that rough a time with a Raspberry Pi.

I've used a Pi for about everything you can use one for at some point and unless the image was out of date or bad it was never an issue. Also its pretty hard to burn yourself on a bed unless its actively printing at the same time, they cool fast. Its like the glass on the front of a toaster oven, it cools quick and you'll likely snatch your hand away....unscrewing the nozzle to replace it on the other hand.

What do these fucking chiggers put in this resin that's dangerous and requires ventilation? It doesn't say what it's made of.

Funny how it says 'call poison control' when ingested but you can't tell the fucking tell them what you just consumed because they are afraid someone rips off their formula.

In a fucking 1st world country it should be illegal to sell resin without telling people what's in it.

>>1432657
https://myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-gurren-lagann-yoko-littner-cr-10-box-pose-57889

>>1433183
That is rather concerning for the lack of information. But resin in general isn't really pleasant for you. Usually polyurethane is usually a major component if that helps to know.

>>1433190
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rILKm-DC06A

>>1433190
>polyurethane

from what I gather it's not the polyurethane but stuff they add to it to make it less volatile.

Is there any dlp resin that has the ingredients listed?

>>1433193
>>1433183
Isn't Wanhao a Chinese manufacturer? If you buy western resin i'd think that they have the materials listed.

>>1433193
I watched some shit youtube stream where ppl were saying in the chat that if your lungs are 'wheezing' then to open a window. -- No fucking thank you. I don't need cancer.

>>1433194
It's a well-built chink printer, but they don't tell you what the resin is. they just say it's 'corrosive', you shouldn't breathe it or drink it.

>>1433197
you don't know how serous the warning is and if there are dangerous reactions with other stuff. Like say you spray paint the print or spill the resin and it get mixed with apple juice --- will it create mustard gas? That shit burns your lungs forever.

>>1433197
it's chink so they don't have it.
Similarly many chink printers are very dangerous when it comes to danger of self ignition or electrocution and yet they are sold in the west.

Is simplfy3d really worth it over Curra?

I'm not sure if it would help make the prints for my miniatures much better or not.

>>1433207
ofc it's not

>>1433183
>>1433190
>>1433193
>>1433194
>>1433195
>>1433197
>>1433200
>>1433202
Google wanhao resin MSDS, theres everything you want to know.

Strangely if you look at a formlabs MSDS, it doesnt specify compounds and ratios and just says "Proprietary". Not sure if id trust the later.

>>1432848
I know that feeling. Why take it apart when it's working well. I usually wait until I can apply several upgrades at once so the pay off is more obvious. Every time it's been worth it.

>>1433048
Continue using automotive finishing products (or similar) and techniques. You've already started using auto products, think about how shiney cars are. By similar I mean other enamels. Spray paint, brushed enamels, or auto enamels will wet sand similarly. Then clear coat for that extra shine. More layers, more shine. Consider an airbrush (or hvlp) for thin, quick, smooth paint layers that will require less wet sanding.

>>1433183
Hoo boy, so bad you don't even want to know. We're talking liquid cancer with a heaping helping of reproductive toxicity. Hope you already had kids anon. I work with a chemist who develops these resins and he refuses to touch printed parts without gloves.

So here's the deal resin has photosensitizers, their job in life is to generate free radicals when light is shined on them causing polymerization. Free radicals fuck shit up and something capable of making them can do some pretty fucked up shit. To top things off you've probably got some nasty solvents too. Oh yeah and some researchers found that exposure to printed parts tends to kill fish eggs, indicating it's probably not a good idea to touch the parts

So I want to build a DLP stereolithography machine, what are the best projectors to use?

>>1433229
If you google some of the bigger boys like 3DS and envisiontec they list compounds and sometimes ratios, but it's pretty much if it gets in your eyes your fucked, if you inhale it a lot of it your fucked, drink it your fucked

think formlabs is hiding a lot of it due to getting sued by the big boys, and one of the lawsuits is about their resin formula's

What are anons thoughts on building a second printer. I have a prusa-style now that works great, so i have access to printed parts with good tolerances and experience enough to build from scratch. If you were to build a second non-prusa printer for fun, what would you build and why?
I've been looking at:
>reprap helios - not ready but super cool
>snappy reprap - only a curiosity/frustration?
>corexy - stackable for printer farm?
>delta - different kinematics would be fun to learn

>>1433338
probably a dbot or a voron corexy

>>1433338
I'm in the design phase for my new delta. Just trying to get my r max v2 capable enough to print the parts needed. Then I can use new delta to print really good parts for the max and hopefully get it permanently operational as well.

>>1433183
This is from objet photopolymer msds. Most likely it is something as nice as this one.

>>1433048
I dont know what brand the PLA was that i got for my extruder, but i tried to smooth it out with acetone and cotton swab if i recall right and that worked really well. Would only need little base coat and paint if going for certain color. Also had all the details still for what you can expect from 2010 printer.

>>1433338
If your going to design a printer from scratch you should make it multi purpose like add an attachment for milling circuit boards or a pancake printer or whatever dumb secondary things you might want it to do.

>>1433207
Hasn't been for a long time.

>>1433292
>free radicals
If I remember high school biology, those are what actually cause cancer, all radiation does to you is inefficiently create them. I had no idea that's how resin works, shit.

Is the buyfag guide up-to-date?

Have there been any new small, cheap, pre-built printers showing up lately?

>>1433424
ender 3
any monoprice machine other then the delta
cr 10
prusa mk2 / mk3
ultibots
seemecnc

if you have the money
lulzbot, ultimaker, fusion3 f410, bcn, makergear, raise3d

3D hubs only updates once a year and they only put certain machines up on the list

>>1433424
Fuck pre built my dude, half the fun is tinkering with the printer, I've taken mine apart like a dozen times in the past 2 months.

Bonus points when something inevitably breaks you know how to fix it.

(please ignore wiring rats nest)

>>1433486
I've been trying to get my cheap chinkshit kit to work for over a month now. Everything seems to be going well, I print a fairly reasonable calibration cube, and then the next print is just a wad of hot plastic. Recalibrate everything, test with a cube, prints fine, next print is another wad of plastic. I just want things to fucking work now and I don't mind spending a few extra bucks.

>>1433358
Every day i get more and more discouraged to build an SLA printer... They are literally cancer

>>1433229
The links to that sheet werr dead. They pulled it for a good few days.

Are there any organic resins like from corn or trees? I'm not waiting untill my lungs are wheezing.

I'm pretty sure there's stuff in nature that cures from exposure UV light which is sunlight.

>>1433493
Do you have auto bed leveling? I honestly spent more time trying to get my first layer right than actually printing before I installed my BLtouch. I have the genuine one, but you can use a clone if you want - I wanted to support a cute Korean girl.

Now I level the bed once (I use nylock nuts on my bed leveling knobs) set it to probe the bed before each print and get perfect first layers every time. What printer do you have?

>>1433514
>support a cute Korean girl
You do realise that she's just a pretty face they hired on for the campaign?

Ayone buying resin in bulk? I want to buy like 40 liters not shampoo bottles. Any good sellers?

>>1433514
I have literally the cheapest chinkshit kit. I'm not surprised I can't work it for shit, but I did not expect it to need immediate recalibration after every print.

I think I'm just gonna order a monoprice mini and hope it doesn't suck.

>>1433548
I'd look into an ender 3 before you pull the triger on a monoprice mini, both cost about the same and the ender 3 is newer and has a bigger bed.

finally pulled the trigger on one one of those cheap prusa knockoffs from anet after reading a ton of reviews. it's my first printer and I'm planning to use it to design parts for a small cnc setup for making circuitboards and various other random shit. anyone have any first-hand experience with them/stuff i I should he wary of?

>>1433557
2late

Also, as far as I can tell, the ender isn't a pre-built, it comes as a kit. I already have a precarious amalgamation of wires that refuses to print anything useful, I don't need another one.

>>1433606
wait, no, don't fucking buy another printer if you can't make the first one print.

>>1433608

This is why I bought a pre-built, pre-configured printer. If it doesn't work, I can legitimately send it back and get my money back. The fact that my current printer doesn't work can probably be wholly attributed to my ineptitude at building things.

>>1433611
dude baka just get good

>>1433606
Lol, my ender 3 took like 45 min to assemble, <2 min of plugging in wires that are already partly plugged and cable tied in the box, and then another 45 min to level it before the first print (mind you, it was easy because I got glass plate to go on it because I knew the bed would likely be warped).
>>1433611
Don't know what kit you got, but if it was that hard then you either dun goofed or you really suck...

>>1433565

>>1433486 here, pretty modified A8

Do you like to Tinker? If the answer is no, cancel your order and get an Ender 3 instead. You'll hit the price difference fast with mandatory upgrades, and there's significantly more setup required for the A8 - but as a bonus you learn a fuck ton.

You'll bare minimum need to buy an external Mosfet for the heated bed, a new 30A power supply, and solder the heatbed. You should do all of these before you even do your first print. You may also need to get an Arduino Uno or raspberry pi to flash the bootloader if you want to update to Marlin (you should if you want thermal runaway protection)

The ender 3 has its own issues, you'll probably need to buy a new GT2 belt because it frequently ships with one too short, some bowden tube fittings because the ones it comes with are junk, and a glass build plate because the bed is almost always warped.

I got the A8 because I love mechanics and wanted to explore the actual machine and upgrade it. There's a large community and plenty of printed upgrades for the A8, but the Ender 3 is gaining quite the momentum.

Pic is some China goodies that just came in the mail.

>>1433521
I'm fairly certain that Korean girl actually made the BLtouch and antlabs, at least from what I gathered from people who met her at maker conventions.

>>1433548
The monoprice mini is bad value when the Ender 3 exists, and it's literally like putting a few pre-built sections together. If you can't handle that then 3Dprinting isn't for you.

I'm still using my free student copy of Inventor from college, but need to switch to something else when that expires—what's a good free CAD suite these days? Installed Fusion 360, but haven't launched it yet, that alright?

Alternatively, are there any places where I can get an edu email address? Usually the .edu domain in the email address is all that's needed to get (free) educational licenses for software. My college deletes student email accounts a year after graduation, so that's out.

Unrelated, are there any must-have plugins for Cura that don't come preinstalled?

>>1433684
yea fusion is alright, been using it for a while and it works well enough, doesn't seem to have many shortcuts tho, mby i can change that in the setting? haven't bothered to check

Fist time I ran out of filament for a larger print.

It was roughly 95% complete.

The model was split to get a larger print.

Feels bad man

>>1433713
holy shit fix your stringing issues
That would have been garbage even had it completed.

>>1433716
It is wood filament.
It rubs off anyways.

SLA prints warp worse than ABS being printed inside of a fridge. It's nowhere close to a FDM sucessor.

Maybe polymer jetting will take FDM's place eventually, and SLA will die off on its own since polymer and wax jetting can provide a better resolution.

>>1433624

>I got the A8 because I love mechanics and wanted to explore the actual machine and upgrade it. There's a large community and plenty of printed upgrades for the A8, but the Ender 3 is gaining quite the momentum.

Bullshit. Ya got A8 because it is dirt cheap. That machine is know to be a fire hazard and require endless modification to be usable. The most common practice is to cannibalize printer into new build from ground up. Acrylic frame flex insanely, controller board is inferior compared to RAMPS and power supply cannot push enough of juice to power out of spec heated bed.

Stop being scrooge and stop search for excuses. Just create repstrap if you love tinkering.

Here is one example: 1X2 Tallcat

https://reprap.org/wiki/1X2_Tallcat

>>1433755
>moving print bed
>over 600mm high print
"no"

>>1433755
>yeah, it prints pretty square

>>1433755
Nah, I did a decent amount of research beforehand and could have just picked up the Ender 3 for about the same price I ended up spending on the A8 plus necessary mods. In total both were around $200. I've spent quite a bit more than that by now and view it as a learning exercise and experience builder. I didn't want to go straight into a reprap build because usually you need a printer in the first place to make parts, and I wanted to dip my feet in the water with a kit before going full custom. Sure, if I had the knowledge I had now, I would have bought an AM8 frame, and some Chinese electronics and steppers from aliexpress and would have a way better printer than what I have now, but then again I wouldn't have the knowledge I have now without tinkering with the A8.

My next printer will be a CoreXY style, but I don't want or need a second printer yet so that's down the line. By now I have a decent amount of parts laying around for the second printer including a E3D clone hotend that I got refunded because it didn't ship with a metal heatbreak (even though clone metal heatbreaks are always garbage)

I don't consider 3 mods to be endless, I could have easily stopped at the PSU, mosfet and soldered heatbed wires but I chose not to.

>>1433017
>Metal printing will never be in the households,
How many times I have heard this exact line growing up. the most memorable was "we'll never see what an atom looks like" which was repeated ad nasuem by every dumbfuck teacher that taught me. Maker forge is only 9k for a metal printing system, but the process in which they encapsulate metal particles in an appropriate plastic is something that can hit the 100$ a kilogram mark, and you dont need a special printer to use it.

You will see metal printers marked at the 800-1200 range in the next couple of years.

How long before we have nanobots that can just make anything out of anything for us?

>>1433805
Whenever your fat, sloth like ass chokes to death on old age.

>>1433805
Yeah, awesome idea. Let's usher in the age of gray goo as cheap Chinese made nanobots break down the planet when the safeties fail.

>>1433755
nigger, my dick is straighter than that print

>>1433342
Thanks, I'll check these out.
>>1433343
Are you designing from scratch or building a modified version of a kossel or something?
>>1433401
I thought I'd build from scratch not design something new. I don't have any novel ideas to try out. I was planning a PCB etching setup before I got sucked into this 3d printing thing, that may be a better idea. Are there any good designs you know of? Also milling vs etching?
Has anyone used a 3d printer to make an etching mask or stencil?

>>1433938
>Are you designing from scratch or building a modified version of a kossel or something?

Given the simplicity of deltas, I'm certainly not reinventing the wheel. I'm using what I've learned about delta layout from my V2 and all the "best practices" that have been discussed in forums. The frame will be made up of 1x3 black extrusion with a universal bracket design similar to a kossel, but the bracket will also provide mounting points for outer panels and have integrated cable management channels. I don't really want to throw the design around here untill it starts to become more physical and has been tested. Mostly just biding time for the budget.

>>1433713
Maybe you can add the ~5% un-printed to the other part? Or does it exceed boundaries like that?

>>1433789
>we'll never see what an atom looks like
You see with your eyes by detecting photons.
Moving goal posts: We can use atomic force microscopy to feel the atoms, scanning electron microscopes, so basically you can see them on computer screens.

Lets move goalposts again:
>encapsulate metal particles in an appropriate plastic
Yup sure metal printing is happening.

>>1433789
>encapsulate metal particles in an appropriate plastic is something that can hit the 100$ a kilogram mark, and you dont need a special printer to use it.

Isn't that like the bronzefill and whatever filament that we've had for years?

Who else is put off from printing anything in the hot summer days?

With the Monoprice Maker Select Plus down to $300, I'm tempted to get it as my first 3D printer. Any reason not to?

>>1434132
Looks good for that price.

>>1434132
I have the v2 and am quite happy with it. Printed pretty well out if the box, and about as good as anything I've seen after a few mods. I don't know what the plus differences are, so you may not even need to do all that i did. $300 for a couple screws, couple plugs ready to print is about half of anything else like that that I know of.

>>1434107
Nah, far different. The thickness of the nucleating material is controlled down to the micron, and its done via a super critical anti-solvent process. The material itself also has to be soluble in a solvent so it can be removed prior to sintering

>>1434052
>muh goalposts whining
neck yourself

Is there some place where they share nazi related 3d moddels?

I can't find shit except a few moddels.

>>1433786
>falling for the corexy meme

first groot.
first time painting.
forgot pic of print before paint.
0.2 on a cocoon touch.
niece loves it.

>>1434006
That sounds really sexy.

>>1434285
What's wrong with it? I like that it's contained in a box so potentially stackable? Don't know any more about it but was going to consider one for my next build.

>>1434387
>What's wrong with it?
Relying on belt tension alone to keep the xy stage square

>I like that it's contained in a box
Not always

>>1434452
anon, isn't core xy considered the premium kinematics system for 3d printers? Seems all around pretty wonderful.

>>1434457
That's what I thought too, no moving bed for the y axis, only slow z movement. I think I get what >>1434452 is saying about the belts. If I understand the belt system correctly, if one of the pulleys slipped a tooth or few, the axis tension would become unbalanced which would pull it out of square.

>friends asks me to print him a thing
>sure no problem
>come home download the model, slice it and upload to octoprint
>hover mouse over print button
>fnger starts shaking
>go back into slicer and and change infill from 25% to 15%
>upload stl to octoprint
>hover mouse over print button
>finger still shaking
>go back to slicer and change infill from 15% to 5% and decrease shell thickness
>upload stl to octoprint
>hover mouse over print button
>brain wont allow me to click
>FUCK FUCK
>go back to slicer, remove raft, start guessing if the model can print hollow

SHIT why do i have to be such a fucking jew? I don't want to be and IT'S FUCKING EATING ME ALIVE INSIDE
FUCK

>>1434594
I think some slicers have an option where they only do infill where it is needed to support the roof, try that. Also, you can safely go down to 3 or maybe even 2 shells with a 0.4mm nozzle.

metal 3d printing may not be too far away.
https://youtu.be/4FkzLs7cLes
$5000 printer + kiln required. It's expensive but reasonable in comparison to other metal printers.
What do you think?

>>1432497
Anyone catch the recent season of Last Chance U where the cringy music video guy is editing and there is a 3D printer to the side?

Made me think of y'all.

>>1434594
>worrying about saving a few cents of plastic
Seriously, jump into an oven, you are the jew menace.

Lads, i got me some 300mm mgn 12 rails, 300mm 2020 profiles and all that stuff corner brackets etc. And i've got a cheapo printer just chugging along which i'm more than willing to cannibalize from, i'm thinking of doing a corexy build, any suggestions as for if i should choose some particular build or design the whole thing myself? I think i have what it takes to design it myself but that's still a lot of effort.

>>1434674
Hey now, isn't the whole point of /diy/ to do more with less, we're all jews here.

>>1434645
No it's still far away

If you compare that part to one out of a DMLS / SLM/ EBM before post processing it's shit, not to mention with the bigboys the huge array of metals and alloys available.

Yes the SPD part won't warp while printing, but soon as you fire it the chances of it warping and deforming goes up, even DMLS and the other true metal 3d printing machine the parts can and will warp while printing unless proper precautions are taken for supporting structures and topology optimizations. Even MIM process like what desktop metal and markforged metal x is doing has it's flaring flaws when it comes to actually sintering the part, non repeatable warpage and deformation.

True metal printing has already come a huge way to where some small businesses can afford some of the systems, IE this past year Xact metal launched new machines that are around 100 to 150k, formalloy has more affordable machines for businesses, EOS is getting more affordable. I highly doubt metal 3D printing will ever come to the homes, first off other then cost there is the safety consideration the systems that use lasers, use an extremely powerful fiber lasers and in the enclosed build volume they pump out the oxygen and pump in either argon on xeon gas, secondly is the break out phase it's worse then the gypsum and nylon powder based machines just because metal powder is a bit more harmful to the human body, then there is the support equipment like non static vacuum for break out, band saw or something to cut the piece off the build plate then equipment to post process and finish the part and grind the build plate back to being planar, and then comes the sieving and mixing of virgin and non virgin material process.

SLS has a better chance of coming to the homes then metal does.

picture from a part off an EOS before post processing, not mine

>>1434457
>core xy considered the premium kinematics system for 3d printers?
No, it's just a meme scheme to build what would be an h-bot but with worse materials, it has plenty of issues associated with it

Ultimaker-style kinematics is much better and more reliable
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YJemhvyrJkg

>>1434594
You deserve another shoah if you actually do this. Also stop trying to link Jewish people with being cheapskates, that is the realm of Burger-Americans.

>>1433786
>choosing an Ender 3 over a Anet A8
There will come the time where you will regret this, all my friends who had bought the Anet A8 pretty much abandoned it after getting another one. It is too much of a hazzle and you mostly dont change stuff on it, because you want to, but because you just have to. To quote a friend
>when you replaced every single part on it, it becomes a decent printer you could have for far less.
Got myself a CL-260 (ultimaker clone) which was a little less than double the price of the Anet A8 and i am still using it as my second printer, since it simply works and prints better than most Anet A8 with lot of modifications. Never regretted not going for the cheapest thing.

>>1434727
Do it, it's fun and you get exactly what you want.
>>1434752
have you heard about the dual wire ganty?

>>1434645
That is not metal printing, it is powder dispensing.

>>1434746
Please stop shilling for EOS. I worked with one and customer support is nonexistent.

>>1434848
Just used them as an example, just like I used Xact metal and formalloy would have used acram as an example but those fuckers are super expensive and don't know anyone that runs one

>>1434777
>Got myself a CL-260 (ultimaker clone)
If I had a printfarm, I'd have a dozen or so of them, but I'd probably change the bed platform to one a bit more solid.

>>1434831
>have you heard about the dual wire ganty?
Yes, the guy who made it sayd he doesn't use it anymore because it wasn't very accurate. Probably because of printed pulleys. Maybe if replaced those with turned pulleys it would be more accurate, in combination with kevlar fishing line?

>>1434752

Speaking of kinematics, is H-bot that much different from a moving bed design? The mass on both axes is still different, and a geared extruder setup will easily match the weight of a heated bed (unless you use bowden of course). Ultimaker should be the best possible kinematics, but it's limited to only bowden setups which kinda sucks.

>>1434880
>is H-bot that much different from a moving bed design?

H-bot is just a motor/belt arrangement, you could implement a x/y moving bed with it. UM style can be used with direct extruder too, like the Zortrax and several other printers do, but then you'll need thicker x/y rods (just as in any other design).


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IYEHlH3hn0g

>>1434645
Or you can just print this with your chinkshit prusa:
http://www.metal-am.com/basf-launches-ultrafuse-316lx-fused-filament-fabrication-metal-parts/

>>1434878
>kevlar fishing line
I was thinking about gt2 belts.

>>1434895
Which are just rubber (stretchy) reinforced with fiberglass, if the fishing line has the same properties as the timing belt it can be used in place with no difference in behavior

>>1434911
Fishing line wont. It stretchs but its not elastic, the deformations are permanent.

>>1434915
Doesn't it depend on the fishing line material?

>>1433805
It is not known if it is even possible to practically make things by moving and bonding individual atoms.

>>1435002
Well, eventually the science will make it happen.

>>1433004
>> be me year 2025
>> finally get my metal 3d printer from china
>> unpack a heavy as fuck metal powder cartridge into the machine that cost 100 times more than the printer
>> have to rent a goddamn cannister of argon just to print
>> finally able to print
>> try to print gun
>>get random chinese that translates to "illegal file"
>> now permanently banned from china
>> doesn't matter because even if I could, the parts would still be too rough to work
>> try to print waifu
>> get same error
>> disney bought the rights to my waifu and was able to force all printers to have DRM
>> only able to print a Xi Jinping figurines
>> print one
>> get metal powder everywhere removing it
>> have to dremel off metal supports
>> sparks everywhere
>> metal powder gets ignited, house burns down
>> now I'm dead

>>1435007
No you don't understand, science could say that it is practically impossible

>>1435014
And then other science will make that obsolete and it will happen. A century ago scientists didn't think splitting the atom was possible, today we generate half of our power that way.

>>1435012
>luckily the fire extinguisher system saves your life
>you die 1 year later in cancer caused by metal powder your body absorbed

Steel powders arent too volatile, aluminium on the other hand.

Also you can do away with just compressed air and a nitrogen generator. Argon (its not that expensive btw) is for aluminium based powders since it tends to form brittle aluminium nitrids.

>>1435034
Steel powder can absolutely be awful for your health. Magnesium and zink are commonly alloyed with iron, and both are absolute cancer.

>>1435029
And that may not happen within your lifetime. Look up the sticky finger and fat finger problems. If we can't reliably place and bond atoms, we may have to go in and scan where everything is to see if they're in the right place, and basically hit them until they are in the right place. This vastly increases the time and cost it takes to make something. Instead of taking minutes it takes years, instead of taking reasonable amounts of energy the energetic cost per kg is similar to that of the fissiles in the first atomic bombs

>>1435042
Yeah, but we're also operating at a super tiny distance, so our "hitting thing" can move very quickly, all we need is super high frequency computer chips to handle the processing of the sensors and hitting thing. We'll also have things like fusion or antimatter power so that the energy can be pretty much infinite. With enough energy we could make star trek replicators.

>>1432965
>uploads 3d scanned model for herself for the rest of us to hotglue on her fake tits

the absolute madwomen

>>1435043
Moving fast isn't the problem, it's that our atom may move randomly when we hit it, meaning we have to gamble until the atom moves into just the right position. This gets more complicated when we are talking about more than one atom and moving one atom may totally fuck up everything else. It may take so long to win at this gamble that the process is impractical. So sure, it may be possible, just not in your lifetime

>>1433713
if I were you I would:
measure where it cut off
open the original model in cad or blender
slice from recorded height and print top segment
then superglue pieces together.

>>1433684
Fusion is fine. The only truly free somewhat usable CAD software I've found is FreeCAD.

What are you guys saying, i though corexy was an improvement over Hbot, i've heard hbot has some issues with torsion or whatever. What exactly is wrong with corexy?

>>1435285
people who chink out on parts or go for huge spans and don't take belt resonance as a factor.

same folks who bitch about hbot and cheap out on the parts

>>1435323
>belt resonance
expand on this. Im planning on building a meter long model for printing weapons chassis, and this seems important.

>>1435285
>i though corexy was an improvement over Hbot
Have you ever wondered why it's only used in 3D printers, and by people who come from designing 3d printers? It's a jerry rig to make it possible to have two stationary motors while using printed joining parts

On my corexy I always had an issue where the gantry would slightly wobble back and forth along the Y axis when the carriage was moving on the X axis, and I never could figure out why. I tried building an h-bot of the same print area (300x200) just to see if it would wave back and forth as well and to my surprise not only the "racking" was really small, the gantry did not wobble at all. It could be because the corexy had the shitty GT2 idlers people recommend over flanged bearings and the h-bot just had flanged bearings for idlers. It seems the idlers are always a bit eccentric so they cause a bit of "y-wobble", but the bearings are much more precise, even the cheapest ones.

I haven't attempted building a corexy using flanged bearings yet to see if it would behave any better, but one can easily see the eccentricity in the idlers adding up.

One thing I do know for certain is that people are wrong in recommending toothed idlers over flanged bearings. In fact, my h-bot which has only flanged bearings prints much better than my corexy with toothed idlers. People recommend and do a lot of stupid shit just because everyone else is doing it.

This is good info

General advice for less stringing?

>>1435331
Turn on retraction in your slicer.

>>1435012
>China
>enforcing DRM and copyright laws

haha you funny

>>1435355
They will after President Barron Trump annexes them as the fifty-third state.

>>1435329
yeah your build seems a tad sketchy, but i mean look at this, probably the best fdm machine out there as far as print speed and quality are concerned and it's a corexy, admittedly it's a bowden so it's not quite perfect but with a frame that beefy i'd think it could handle a pancake motor and a titan direct extruder.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZBmgC3fTCG0

Also, about your build, i don't think those belts should be twisted like that, shouldn't they be at 90 degree angles only? surely those angles result in incorrect incorrect movements.

>>1435331
Coasting options on Cura, and retraction, i actually turned my zhop completely off because it was giving me issues and still there was no stringing.

>>1435326
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/8ii8o1/holy_belt_resonance_batman/

If you aren't scared of the cost look at what CNCrouterparts does for their CNCs and just adapt the mechanics for a 3D printer, don't need ballscrews, acme lead screws should be fine, if you go smooth rods spring for the 12mm or 16mm rods, 2040 or 4080 frame.

Could also steal a lot of the design points that 3D Platform does.

>>1435329
Yeah and they almost never do gear ratios to help with torque and helping to combat other issues with cheap ass chinkshit builds, but that requires them to actually put forth an actually effort in their build.

>>1435365
Comparing an actually well designed machine to something slapped together, makes me wish eclips3d was still around oh well the guy got hired by formlabs

>>1435375
>3D Platform
if you're talking about pic related then just no, looks like a garbage kinematics system

>>1435378

>all that mass
>so little bearing area
>all that torque at high acceleration

I feel like that thing would have to be as slow as a Malyan to get even halfway decent prints when the gantry is near either its upper or lower maximum.

>>1435378
Was thinking more along the lines of the excel aka them ripping off autodesk Escher, the cronus from titan robotics is another one you can borrow idea's from

>>1435378
>tfw your 1m x 1m x 0.5m print fails at 95%

Anyone here from the UK ordered any filaments from 3DQF and if so are they any good?

Gonna shill makergeeks one more time because they have a pretty good sale going on, 35% off everything including their monthly box - which will include 1kg of conductive filament this month, they say it will be over $100 in filament this month so you're at least getting 1 more roll of something, maybe raptor PLA which I really like.

If that's not your taste you can get transitional rolls of filament for like $8/roll, random color/material cut from the switchover between colors/materials in production that normally wouldn't be able to be sold. Otherwise just enjoy 35% off all their normal stuff.

So I've got a while before I start my scratch build. One of the few things I haven't tackled is mounting the mgn12 rails to the extrusion. It will be centered on the wide face of 1" by 3" extrusion. I know seemecnc mounted theirs between slots by screwing directly into the aluminum but mine will be over the center slot. I've seen people make custom full length t nuts to even out the load but I'm more worried about keeping the rail stable and aligned since the wings on each slot are slightly angled. For now I'm planning on mounting the rail to a peice of steel and the steel to the column. Any one else have any tips or tricks. What's the standard mounting method on all those deltas made with 2020 extrusion?

>>1435752
If you use a pair of m3 sliding nuts, the rails will stay put pretty much forever.

>>1435752
Eeh just use sliding nuts and some m3 8mm hex head screws.

>>1435883
Will the m3 nuts work in the 1/4" slot? Also, will they self center?

>>1435938
>Will the m3 nuts work in the 1/4" slot?
No idea what you're tryna ask here.
>Also, will they self center?
No you'll have to center the rails yourself

>>1432654
>Yoko Littner
Patrician taste in waifus

I found an old "Wanhao Duplicator 4", complete chinese bullshit, printer is dual extrusion and in working condition, but it uses shit out of date software to run. Should I strip it for parts and build something open source? Or is there reasonable way to get this thing to follow instructions from newer software

>>1436037
>shit out of date software
tf you talkin' bout anon? these things have been running on Marlin since day 1

>>1433022
This.

>>1436045
Is that all? They shipped it as a ripoff of whatever the original makerbot was, since then makerbot jumped the shark and they stopped supporting it. If its just marlin would it just plug and play with repitier-host then?

>>1436097
I should add I tried running it from makerbots slicer gcode and it scorched a stepper driver, I had replacements, I guess it ran it too fast

where is the faggot posting the 3d printer pasta on /pol/ again

>>1436100
Have you checked what the trimpots for the stepper current were set to?

>>1436100
dude there's no way software burns your drivers, they are set to a too high setting, twist the little screw counterclockwise

>>1436144
Actually, you can have your acceleration and movement speeds set too high in the slicer and you can burn out your driver by overloading it.

>>1436203
Your driver won't exceed the maximum current you set it to, no matter the speed.

>>1435943
What I meant was would a t-nut for a 20 mm extrusion work in a 1" extrusion. I pulled some de men sins and I think it would.
Ad for the self alignment, I see that the nuts for smaller extrusion have a raised section that rises up into the slot. I feel like that would help but I don't ever see that on nuts meant for 1010 series stuff.

This seems interesting but I doubt that it does retraction as well as stiffer stuff.
http://www.fabbaloo.com/blog/2018/7/30/has-essentium-solved-the-flexible-3d-printing-problem

>>1436249
Most important parts:
>It turns out they’ve made a kind of composite filament that is made of a thin layer of relatively rigid - but still flexible - material on the outside of the filament, and the core is a far softer flexible material.
> 750g spools, both 1.75mm and 2.85mm formats at a cost of USD$95 each.
Pretty sure i have heard about something similar years ago, problem is that the two materials dont blend good in the hotend and you have both materials on different parts of the layer, one is rigid other is flexible, which causes non uniform strechability and the parts break localy faster.
Would be nice if it works, but i got my doubts, witnessed too many people claiming they have solved this or that filament problem and in the end it is just another trade off for other problems.

>>1436259
>$100 for less than a kg of probably subpar flexible material
At that point I would just start printing the molds and casting the parts from rubber/etc.

>>1436259
They might have a pretty good working product, essentium are good folks and they have BASF back and helping them to develop new filaments. And from the sounds of it it's slightly different shore values rather pure rigid flex blended or split down the middle.

It's just essentium is so god damn pricey even for their exotic stuff

>>1436224
If it's imperial extrusions then just use matching nuts or print M3 nut adapters

>>1436205
Current will limit it, but heat can build up and cause malfunction if there's not enough cooling.

What's a good clear PETG? I ordered some shit from china but cancelled it because the shipping estimate was in November. I can also do polycarb but am doubtful whether it's worth the extra effort. Printers are a Monoprice Maker Select Plus and a Prusa i3 mk3.

Also a thing I finished uploading today
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3028889

Out of skate bearings so I probably won't have the drybox done for a while.

>>1436261
Also doesn't solve the problem of the print itself being floppy.

Anyone bought an i3 Mega before?
Are there any problems out of the box?

>>1432965

I can't watch Naomi anymore

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a929IRtg4YU

I can deal with implants in principle but seeing it like this is too much

>>1436457
>polycarb

What extruder are you using? I didn't think the default on either the Monoprice or the Prusa could push Polycarb.

>What's a good clear PETG?

eSUN natural has been nothing but great for me. I'm even still using my glass/hairspray and it still prints like a dream. not as fully clear as you might like, but PETG generally isn't. more like translucent. I've yet to find a PETG that prints fully clear.

>>1436476
https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/print-tips-archive--f86/polycarbonate-here-s-how-to-print-it-without-warpi-t6919.html

>>1436478
>>1436478

Well shit, call me corrected. I've gotta try that out now.

That being said, guy's speculation about additive loading in the thread might be correct. If you're looking for clear/natural I would still watch out for those temp settings.

I've been eyeing some glass-filled 3mm rods to try some nasty-strong prints.

>>1436476
>>1436457

For reference on the PETG transparency. 2 layers thick, printed in Z. If you're printing onto a very flat surface , X/Y's not bad either.

>>1436483
Thanks. I'm doing some research into vacuum valving and need to see what's going on. That should help, thanks.

>>1433688
They fixed that with an update today, keyboard shortcuts for days.

They also broke tooltips but who needs those.

>>1436485
>I'm doing some research into vacuum valving

Sounds cool. willing to divulge?

>>1436492
New design for milking pulsators. Made progress, needs tuning and gaskets.

>>1436101
>posting the 3d printer pasta on /pol/
wot?

>>1436475
Lmao, fuck implants desu

>>1436475
Implants can be alright, but Naomi has absolutely huge implants on a much too small frame. For implants to look good the woman ironically already needs to have pretty decent tits.

>printing my mum a desk bin because her office has gone "binless" and now she has nowhere to put anything
>my cheap chinese prusa clone has lost its leveling and I can't be fucked to get it back

This wouldn't be such a pain in the ass if the auto-leveler I bought worked but it don't.

>>1436528
>binless office
Is this the kind of shit Americans get up to these days? No fucking wonder the EU and Asia are outpacing you in development.

>>1436532

I'm English tho.

>>1436538
Even more, then. Brexit is ruining you people. Here's a tip, move to Ireland while you still can.

>>1436541

Brexit will save the UK. The EU is a failing communist superstate and the sooner we leave the better.

>>1436488
>They fixed that with an update today, keyboard shortcuts for days.
oh shit for real? that's great

>>1436528
nigga your bed screws are too loose so they wobble open during printing, tighten those motherfuckers down

>>1436542
At the rate your incompetent negotiations are going you'll either remain in the EU but without any influence whatsoever, or you'll be on your own without any trade deals or skilled negotiators whatsoever, with your only recourse being to beg Trump to throw you some scraps in exchange for basically indentured servitude.
But sure, Brexit will "save" you.

>>1436545
Yeah I think the coarse levelling is too high so I can't tighten the screws down too much. I'll wait for this print to fail and I'll fuck with it.

>>1436557
>Yeah I think the coarse levelling is too high so I can't tighten the screws down too much
whaddaya mean? move your limit switch

>>1436566
This one has a screw so you don't have to move the limit switch, you just unscrew the screw a little and the Z level changes.

>>1436570
yeah alright then what's stopping you from screwing down your bed?

>>1436579

I'm lazy.

https://imgur.com/a/XBqlncU Looking for help with my prints same defect 2 times in a row, not sure whats causing it lowered my temperatures between the 2 from 200 to 190 on pla and half as fast on the second one, any thoughts?

>>1436683
Your printer is having trouble making bridges, or horizontal elements over empty space. Follow some guides for fixing bridging problems.

>>1436683
>>1436688
You can also increase your infill % so there's less empty space to bridge for each bridge.

>>1436688
those aren't bridges, just top layers
>>1436683
nigga do u even got infill? also increase the amount of top layers

>>1436683

If you don't want to go heavy infill, try increasing overlap with outline settings slightly. those "retracted" areas in the top layer aren't caused during the actual deposition, they happen when the layer starts to cool and the filament isn't holding onto the opposite side.

also
>>1436689
is right, there's really no reason to avoid a heavier infill. I got tired of dealing with problems like that so I almost always print at 50% or above.

>>1436683

do you have a part cooling fan?

>>1436715
>>1436698
>>1436689
>>1436688
Thanks I hadn't even thought about checking infill I had left most of the settings in slic3r default and it was set at 5%? Put it up to 25% gonna try it out now, thanks. >>1436718
yes I have a part cooling fan

>>1436485
>print part
>silicone mold
>clear resin

what are the local maximums for performance vs price for printers? i.e. are $800 printers 4 times as good as $200 printers? What's the sweet spot?

>>1436698
>https://imgur.com/a/XBqlncU
The first top layers are always bridges

>>1436773
The only major step is from single to independent extrusion/toolchanging, which can be done with a 1500$ printer, at that point it's almost close to an industrial grade machine. I'm not even kidding, you can spend as much money as you want on a printer, until you can do dual extrusion and solvable supports it's not that much better than a 200-300$ rig. For 1500$ you can get into exotic, high temperature engineering materials and heated chamber if you do it DIY.

>>1436785
makes sense. I'm probably going to just get an Ender 3 for my first printer, it seems pretty good

>>1436785
>For 1500$ you can get into exotic, high temperature engineering materials and heated chamber if you do it DIY.

Mayne, A Titan with a V6 can pull PEEK and even Cenazole. Heated chamber, PID controlled, is like 150 bucks to set up properly. you can reach that kind of performance for maybe 300 bucks on top of a decent base printer.

Not disagreeing with your general point - just that it's so cheap now it's absurd.

>>1436493
>Milking pulsators

Lewd

Holy fucking autism. I bought a Duet Wifi to replace my shitty anet control board, and accidentally bought the wrong fucking crimping tool in advance. Have to wait a WHOLE DAY for the proper one to be delivered. JST is impossible without the correct tool.

Also need to replace my Noctua fan plug with the Duet JST connectors because Duet uses some complete autism latch mechanism. Why the fuck didnt they just use common JST connectors found in PCs?

>>1432497

who's baking right now? pic related

>>1436840

probably cheap EOL parts desu

>>1436840
I've never seen JST connectors inside PCs.
Are you confusing them with pin headers?

if I order an Ender 3 from gearbest today, it'll have the improvements right? Like the removable bed etc? Or are they still selling the old versions

>>1436773
You hit a limit at $300 if you're smart about your purchases.

>>1437040
yeah, I've been looking up Ender 3 upgrades and it doesn't take much to have a really capable printer.

>>1437065
>a2 grip
gross

>>1436841
>using linear rail
>hotend attached to extruder, extruder attached to plate, plate is connected to linear rail over distance
Why do people do this? Is this working? Aint the long distance between the hotend tip and the linear rail counter productive? Resonance much?

No offence, but it just wonders me that people go to the extend of buying expensive linear rails and then do something like that.

Also i am assuming you are printing abs with that plasic cover, what temperature you get in there? Is it enough for bigger parts to not crack or bend?

>>1436776
err, "no"

>>1437147
With that setup his plate thingy is quite thick so i'm fairly sure that with the weights we're talking about he's just fine as far as structural stiffness is concerned.

>>1437147
>Resonance much?

Mine is a bit like that and I have no issue at all. On my previous printer, when the hotend assembly was a bit loose I'd get CRAZY rippling. On my current printer (>>1434285), I get non-noticeable amounts of it, as in you really need to look against the light to notice anything, and that's with the machine getting some awful resonance in certain speeds when moving on the X-axis, but that will be gone once I get and install TMC drivers

>>1437206
bruh your extruder aint attached to the hotend like his is

>>1436835
A heated chamber will dry out the hotend fan grease and it will stop spinning. It also requires a bit more sofisticated engineering than just adding plastic panels to an aluminum extrusion frame.

>>1437208
It still forms a pendulum. If you don't use crazy acceleration it's fine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZFM7fx9gjY

>>1437215
lmao what are those pussy ass speeds, my tronxy x1 does twice that without even breaking a sweat

>>1437217
That's probably just a test print, bro

>>1437182
>>1437215
It is still a unnecessary weakspot. On top of that it is a weakspot in the direction that is probaly the most unprecise through the additional mass of the aluminum extrusion, when moving in the y plane. Keep in mind that doubling the length of a rod (and with that a plate) under force will bend 8 times as much as if i recall correctly. Only question is, if other problems appear before that, which have far greater effect. Not saying that it isnt working, but it is kinda a drawback with hardly any plus.
What are your values for the y-plane acceleration compared to the x-plane acceleration? Could you make a ghosting test for both planes? Genuine curios.

Btw on another topic since you both seem to have steel liner rails on aluminium: Do you have any problems with bending in an enclosed (maybe even heated) chamber through different heat expansions of steel and aluminium? Maybe noticing minimal different first layer heights?

>>1437280
> Could you make a ghosting test for both planes?
I don't get any ghosting printing at 3000mm/s in both axes), but yes, which file do I print? I'm not the anon with the dangling Titan but he probably did it that way because it was simpler at the time .

>>1437345
>which file do I print?
https://gumroad.com/l/wkXOK
Just enter 0$ and a random email adress.
Video to the test: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KaFp6Eqk0QI

>I don't get any ghosting printing at 3000mm/s in both axes
Hoi cunt, you better be talking about acceleration or i am going to call you a fat liar.

>>1437351
I seem to be retarded, how do I go to a product page and not just a popup/overlay from the main page? I want to bookmark some of the other things but can't figure out how to get a link to them.

>>1437351
>Hoi cunt, you better be talking about acceleration or i am going to call you a fat liar.
I forgot the ^2

I'm printing that test right now

Im gonna get a DLP.
Should i make an acrylic glove box in order not to get cancer from handling the resin?

>>1437147

As the guy you RE'd


>Ain't the long distance between the hotend tip and the linear rail counter productive?

yeah, it's a shit design, which is why I'm proud to say it not mine - it's from those fucking dickheads at Folgertech. Never buy one of their printers. People who can't into laser cutting melamine properly have no business designing anything.

I;m in the process of design an acquisition on my own system, but the kit in the picture was only 400 bucks for a 13" x 13" x 18" build area back about 3 years ago, which has proved to be pretty useful amount of space since.

That being said, I do think you're overestimating the ability of <1 lbf to deform 8020 and pull center on a decent linear rail. this isn't a router, you know.

>Resonance much?

Not really. it's taken a bit of modification, but, I can now regularly get to about 120 mm/sec in PLA with no real issue.

>Also i am assuming you are printing abs with that plastic cover

Jesus no. Screw ABS. That's white PETG. truly wonderful stuff.

>Is it enough for bigger parts to not crack or bend

It gets up to about 40 deg. C in the volume with the Hijab, which is enough to prevent warpage in PETG and PLA. ABS is just unsolvable unless you're pushing glass temps IMO. I have a better system for higher temps, but the mechanicals start to complain, which is the main motivator for designing my own. I've got some higher performing materials in my sights that are going to require 120 deg C+ ambient in the volume.

>>1437416
>Im gonna get a DLP.
Not worth it


>>1437351
Very discrete ghosting, not even close to what Angus was getting with his Cetus or to blurr out the text

>>1437416

You would need a glove box full of gloves because you're going to be wearing gloves every time you're handling that goo.

>>1437434
>Not worth it
I dont care. Fuck off.

>>1437440
Id have a thick glove to the box, or even dipped gloves not just thin nitrile. Or do you mean the resin reacts with PVC or latex? While we are at it, does it react with acrylic?

>>1437416
Just you are up to date, Creality just released a new SLA printer for 500$, maybe its promising. But its so new, it still aint got any reviews. Just saying so you dont feel you made a mistake in buying something else and this turned out to be good.

>>1432497
Newfag here. I want to learn how to design/model shit before I drop $200 dollarydoos on a printer.
How does Blender compare to the other programs? (What little experience I have is with blender)

>>1437462
Blender is fine to work with if you know what you're doing. I used to model exclusively in it, but then I found out Fusion 360 is free to use. Now, I use a combination of the two - Blender for "artistic" or complex stuff (curves, bools, etc.), and F360 for little tools and simple shapes (business card holder, printer knob, skids for an RC heli).

All of pic related was made using Blender, and...

>>1437421
>but the kit in the picture was only 400 bucks for a 13" x 13" x 18" build area back about 3 years ago
FT-5 i assume? Heard good stuff about, got problems, but far away from the cheap printer kit problems and people are said to continue to use it, simply because it is quality to what others got.
>I;m in the process of design an acquisition on my own system
Arent we all?
> I can now regularly get to about 120 mm/sec in PLA with no real issue.
Impressive.
>Screw ABS.
Literally having 60+kg ABS filament laying around here, with "water damage" but only the carton packaging were affected and i got it all for only 250$. Kinda stuck with the stuff for that reason, but it simply got its problems. What really helped for me is an enclosed chamber and using a 0.8mm nozzle at 0.4mm layer height on a E3d volcano, combined you can print stuff up to 6 inches large without bigger problems, less and thicker layers simply helps a lot and the chamber stops the cracks.

Anyways, thanks for answering.

>>1437434
Wrong direction. Turn it 90° so its facing the most troublesome direction, where most of the mass is moved. What print speed you are using?

>>1437473
...these skids were made in F360 individually, and then imported to Blender so I could sprue them.

>>1437476
Which one is better for making precise parts?

>>1437479
If you want exact millimeter precision on everything you should use F360. If you're okay with things being shifted here or there or want to be able to modify features easily, go for Blender.

Neither is good for 100% percent of cases since they're different "classes" of programs (vertex modeling vs. parametric modeling) but you can export from F360 into Blender for touchup. I'm not sure if you can do it the other way around and still have a usable model since there's no rules/maths in vertex models, only the points (AFAIK).

>>1437479
Would suggest Fusion 360, it is simply a CAD software with all those advantages in that area. Not the guy you were responding to.

>>1437474
>Wrong direction. Turn it 90° so its facing the most troublesome direction, where most of the mass is moved. What print speed you are using?

Other side has a logo, the rippling on it looks about the same

30mm outer wall speed

>>1437482
>>1437483
Not the other guy asking, but curious.
Trying to switch from Inventor to Fusion because free. Since I'm already relearning should I give blender a try as well? I don't know much about the sculpting end of CAD but I want to learn because artsy shits cool. Any good learning resources that wont bore one to death with "the basics"?

Speaking of sculpting, looks like a 3D mouse is a lot more useful for working with 3D sketches than simple 2D sketch then extrude workflows. I've got plenty parts lying around to make a diy one, but is it worth it? If I do I'll make a build thread if anyone's interested

>>1437451
>I dont care. Fuck off.
Not the guy you were replying to, but you should go ahead and drink some resin.

>>1437491
>should I give Blender a try
Yes. It's not as hard to learn as people try to pretend it is and it's a useful tool. However, for now, stay away from Version 2.8 since it's changing the interface and rendering completely and probably makes a lot of tutorials outdated.

>sculpting end of CAD
Blender isn't a CAD program, it's vertex modeling (in the same vein as Maya and 3DS Max), which would let you make cool artsy shit, yes.

>learning Resources
Andrew Price / Blenderguru is a decent place to start, though he has a lot of videos and they're targeted more towards rendering. This series looks pretty short; I've never heard of the guy but skimmed through and he seems to cover barebones "this is how stuff works" in a short amount of time: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hULmL9Ky94&list=PLPV2KyIb3jR7NpThqBF78byFOrzPKiLmb

>3D mouse
I've got zero experience with those so I can't help there, sorry. I know a lot of sculpting artists use tablets like Wacom and Cintiq, though. I'd be interested in watching your build if you make one.

>>1437503
Unsure if I posted it wrong or it was clipped, here's the link to the full series:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hULmL9Ky94&list=PLPV2KyIb3jR7NpThqBF78byFOrzPKiLmb

>>1437474
>Heard good stuff about,

Don't believe a word of it.

>got problems

You got that right. Parts arrive dirty, melamine parts were visibly miscut but shipped out anyway, 8020 parts were often of the wrong length, linear bearings and lead screws were poorly stored in their warehouse and came with flash rust that they had oiled over, directions for assembly were actively wrong at parts, electronics were (and still are) questionable, two of the stepper drivers came blown out of the box.

The real issue started when I tried to get support for the assembly to solve some of these problems. One of the mods on the forums - who (at the time) claimed he didn't work for Foglertech, but very clearly did - was completely intransigent on these issues and either refused to believe they were true unless an overwhelming number of people reported them, or would simply not respond to you at all. Many of the users who came there with any real issue soon became so frustrated that they either offered to offload the machine onto another user on the Forums or they just went silent completely. that's where my appraisal of "fucking dickheads" comes from. Cheap shit that I know I'm going to have to fight with a bit, I can deal with. trying to give people feedback about said problems and getting shit on by company employees is a big no for me.

>people are said to continue to use it, simply because it is quality to what others got.

I've run several other <$1000 kits, and that simply isn't true. The fully squared out frame is nice, certainly, the rigidity of the assembly is promising in theory, and the build area is great, but the quality of execution was just not there.

I suspect the reason that many have continued to use them is that damnable reflex of our sort to try and fix something instead of calling a turd a turd.

Sorry for the blog post - it broke down again today and I'm in a bad mood about it.

>>1437485
If you really want to test your printer, you still need to do the turned test, now you got it turned where it prints best. Idea is that it can accelerate enough and resonance on the long part. The logo side is just too short to make real guesses.
>30mm outer wall speed
Isnt that kinda slow for a printer with linear rails? Thought they could generally go faster than other types, that is kinda prusa clone territory speed.

>>1437485
At 120mm/s and 6000mm/s^2 y acceleration (won't increase X acceleration because that would cause racking) the ghosting is pretty bad, still not as bad as what I see on some people doing 3d printing "professionally" or on Maker's Muse initial tests. At 150mm/s I start getting underextrusion/layers not sticking well/curling

>>1437514
>Isnt that kinda slow for a printer with linear rails?
Inner wall 60mm/s, outer 30mm/s. I did it again at 120-150mm/s.

Maybe it can go faster, but I'd rather not

>>1437503
Thanks, didn't realized there was a difference between calling something modeling or 'CAD' type software, but that makes sense in hindsight... Like, I'm probably retarded kind of sense
Skimmed the video, and I have to say the worst part of 3D design is literally every program uses different keyboard shortcuts and UI patterns (even fucking Fusion uses completely different shortcuts from Inventor, which is completely different from Autocad, what the fuck autodesk?)

>>1437513
Damn, the more posts I see about this and other chink shit like the A8, the better I feel about deciding on an Ender 3... Sorry about your machine m8

>>1437522
Autodesk can be a special kind of retarded, really. I don't want to dissuade you from trying it (since it can be very useful) but some features of Fusion drive me NUTS, like the dark colour scheme being hard to read and how the program tries to be "helpful" when making a sketch, only for me to have to redo it. There's some other things I can't remember since I haven't used it in a month or so, though.

>>1437514
Top is 0.2mm layer height, 120mm/s outer wall, 6000mm/s^2 Y acceleration with the longer side oriented to the Y axis, bottom is 0.1mm layer height, 30mm/s outer wall, 3000mm/s^2 acceleration with the longer side aligned with the X axis

How bad is it?

>>1437513
>Sorry for the blog post
No, i really appriciate it, people tend to just talk about their successes and what went right so they have something to boast about and unintentionally give wrong impressions. For me personally i shuts up the little guy screaming in my head , that i just have should bought one as a first printer and be done with for years. Would have been a rough start instead.
>I've run several other <$1000 kits,
You know what is coming now, dont you? What could you recommend, what is something you regret buying beside the FT-5?
Also your thoughts on linear rails? Are they really worth it?

>>1437515
>>1437517
Is there a noticeable difference between two parts that were printed at the same speed in different directions? If not it would mean the long attachment of the hotend doesnt matter (also the moving parts with the rail attached to the alumium extrusion doesnt have an effect). Maybe the orignial idea was that it wont wobble since the acceleration in the orginal firmware already were different.

>>1437528
You cant really see much on that pic, i am afraid. The lower one stands a bit out with the shifted layer extrusions.

>>1437531
The layers didn't shift, it's an issue with filament diameter or something. Top is supposed to be worst case (y axis, high speed, high acceleration), bottom best (x axis, low speed, default acceleration). Worst case looks better than what Prusa i3 gets in Makersmuse's review.

>>1437529
>Also your thoughts on linear rails? Are they really worth it?
I'm not him, but they really are. They're usually very straight, very rigid, and have pretty much no slop, so parts don't rattle as much. You have to be careful when mounting parallel rails, since they're very sensitive to misalignment in that way.

>>1437535
Should have said changing layer extrusions instead. As for your part it looks a bit like it rattles stronger than the one from the Prusa in the video, but it stops faster on the other hand tor whatever reason. Bit odd.

>>1437541
Read about people mounting one side of the conection to a additional slide on the rail, which helps with that problem.

>>1437546
>Read about people mounting one side of the conection to a additional slide on the rail, which helps with that problem.
Something that would be even better is making an alignment jig somehow

>>1432497
>Monoprice MP Select Mini Pro
>Aluminum with Auto Leveling, Heated Removable Bed, Touch Screen, and Wi-Fi

Wouldn't the less dense aluminum body be a downgrade, though?


https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=107&cp_id=10724&cs_id=1072403&p_id=33012&seq=1&format=2

>>1437568
>inductive sensor

>>1437568
Actually yes

I can't think of a reason to ditch the steel body

>>1432497
Finished my first print on my new 1mm nozzle, thought it would look like shit but I'm actually liking the thick layer height.

Printed on my Anet AI at 35mm/s. It would underextrude at anything faster than 40.

>>1437667
Anet A8.
Autocorrect...

>>1437667
>>1432497
Also, question.
I still want to occasionally print parts that need a smaller layer height, can I just adjust that in Cura or will the new nozzle fail at printing at 0.1 or 0.2mm?

I need to change fillament for the first time. TO what temp should i preheat PLA to pull it out of bowden extruder?

>>1437491
>Not the guy you were replying to, but you should go ahead and drink some resin.
Not the guy you were replying to but you sound like a right twat.

>>1437767
Melting point

>>1437767
super easy
heat to 200C
extrude 5cm
retract 20cm
pull out rest manually

>>1437568
>extruder arm still made of plastic

>>1437568
>Monoprice MP Select Mini Pro
Good riddance

>>1437535
Today I visited a company that uses a lot of Stratasys Fortus machines. Turns out they also have this same kind of rippling.

>>1437676
I think your theoretical min layer height is nozzle dia/4; you may be able to do 0.2, but 0.1 and you're fighting against extrusion physics.

>>1437856
Should have mailed it to me

What is the difference between washing this shit in alcohol and water? Is there anything the alcohol does to help clean the print? Or is that because fags try to be fancy by being sterile.

I waste my fucking time smelling that shit wood votka, I doubt there is any fucking difference then using water.

>>1437959
Resin is most often hydrophob, meaning it will not dissolve in water, but it will disolve in alcohol, which itself dissolves in water. What happens is the following, the alcohol disolves the resin and the water washes away the alcohol and resin mix.
Same way as soap works and why you cant just use water.

>>1436841
Awesome stuff! Is this PMMA or PETG? Looks super fucking clear.

>>1438047
He answered this in another post, it is PETG.

>>1438097
anyone object to a new thread being baked? I've got some shit to reply to

>>1438345
do it

A new thread should always be made at bump limit desu

>printer gathering dust
>want to print shit desperately
>nothing broken at home to print spare parts for
>already printed the about 10 actually useful things from thingyverse and rest of it is just gimmicky trash or gay ass toays
what now? What does a man who has everything print?

>>1438451
buy a vz 61 kit and print a receiver for it
t. /k/

>>1438451
Start constructing things instead of repairing it, make things better, find a solution for stuff that has always annoyed you.

Had a long hook for power cables in my shed, problem always was they tangled up in each other and i had no other place to put them, since room is already spent and if i cant move them without moving a lot of other stuff that already has a good place. Made a separator, so every cable has its own place, no more unfidling for the 10th or getting angry when time is short.
Then there was my old clothes horse which is perfectly fine beside the legs that are all single rods . Would start moving with heavy load and bent not to my liking. Made connectors for the legs and connected them with cheap plastic pipes. Perfectly sturdy now. There is so much more stuff i did. It seems little, but accumulated nicely, i am quite happy about it, since it stopped me getting bugged further by stuff when i was already in a hazzle or annoyed.

You are done with repairing stuff you have to, now lets get started with improving things.

I printed this, washed it in white spirit then water. I also used a nail lamp on it. Why is this cunt still sticky?

>>1438479
Looking at the print quality, that looks worse than a vaper smoothed ABS part, my wild guess is that the resin you got with your cheap ass chinese resin printer is just bad.
Did you cure it from different sides under the UV lamp?

Jesus christ this Duet3D controller is the absolute dogs bollocks. Super silent motors, super easy homing, change the firmware on the fly, web interface is actually useful and informative.

Why the fuck was I pissing around with an SD card again? Would recommend this to anyone.

>>1438479
>supports
i thought the whole point of resin printers was that they don't need support

>>1438495
What's hard about homing?

>>1438496
They are for good quality and less support, what you are talking about are powder based 3d printers.

Goddamnit Prusa fix your fucking supply chain issues. Having a waiting list for bed replacements is fucking stupid. Especially the smooth ones.

>>1438552
Even powder based printers aren't always free from supports due to the stresses generated by heating and the tendency of prints to sometimes delaminate from the built plate

>>1438496
They do, and an awful lot of it.

How is this corexy belt path?

I'll mount the motors to aluminum plates and the mounting holes will be slots, so I can move them back and forth to tension the belts.

How do the da Vinci machines stack up?
I'm looking at the jr. For my first printer, it's got decent reviews but I feel like I would get better results/usage out of something like the monoprices, since they seem to be a fair but more open source

That fuckup halfway through the print was caused by me closing the blinds and turning on a fan which also blew on the printer.

Any recommendations for a cheap enclosure that doesn't look like shit?

>>1438773
craigslist fishtanks

>>1438766
They use literally the same business model as inkjet printers, meaning a cheap printer, but expensive proprietary filament

>>1438776
I'll go with the monoprice then

>>1438784
The monoprice is really tiny and pretty, I would definitely get one, but see >>1437856

That creality Ender 2 is also a nice mini-printer

I just got a new in box flash forge inventor for $700 dollarydoo's, anons. Did I do all right?

>>1438759
look up fabtotum core xy design on google, is praised to be the most logical belt setup
e3d for example used it for their latest printer

>>1438809
overpriced probably

FUCK
after seeing people on youtube embedding magnets into their prints by pausing the print and adding the magnet i wanted to try it too
So i set the printer to pause at a specific layer and it did, so then i added the magnets and resumed the print
The fucking second the printer head moved over the print the magnets shot up like bullets and dissapeart somewhere in the printer head
FUCK FUCK FUCK
Fucking stupid assholes on youtube and their gay ass tutorials

>>1438948
so i find out which part of the head is magnetic
how do you block the magnetic field? i tried the kapton tape but it has no effect

>>1438809
If that model supports wifi then you get +5 points just for not having to use a damn SD card.

>>1438976
You don't have to use a SD card with pretty much any printer since you can just connect an Pi or an old PC with Octoprint.

>>1438977
Very true.

After using a 3D printer with networking, I now consider it mandatory (native or Octoprint).

Don't understand how it's not standard on anything other the cheapest printers given the costs of eMMC + wifi module.

>>1438983

I just use a direct USB connection, do most people have their printers far away from their work area or something?

Man, I just use an SD card. An extra minute to copy gcode onto the card doesn't make much difference to the several hours that a decent sized print takes.
Also, an SD card doesn't have near as many possibilities to fail as print server or USB connection (software fuck-ups, computer crashes).

>>1438962
>how do you block the magnetic field?
LMAO

>>1438507
Well previously I was using an LCD menu and shitty buttons to do all this shit. Now I sit at my £2k battlestation and control that shit from the comfort of my chair and the web interface.

>>1438977
>connect to a pi

Let this raspberry pi meme die and just switch to 32bit controllers instead of offloading the stuff your controller board fails to do to the most autistic product ever mass produced.

>>1439026
Yeah, let's pay 150$ for a new controller board with wifi instead of a 15$ pi...

>>1438962
You considered mayby gluing the magnet into place instead of rewriting the laws of physics?

>>1439031
Don't worry the price will come down soon and then poorfags can enjoy 32bit controllers too.

>>1433565
I was a teacher a while back, a student of mine bought one and it was a fucking unfixable mess with tones of design fuckups.
I went on aliexpress and bought myself the cheapest one I could, it arrived, assembled perfectly and printed first time no problems.
I guess it totally depends on what they ship you, but it could be fantastic or it could be total shit.
Here's the one I ordered, it could be outdated as hell but it sure as fuck works for me:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LCD-Screen-Reprap-Prusa-I3-DIY-3D-Printer-3-D-impressora-KIT-3d-Printers-machine-size/32605524439.html

How do I fix this shit?
Main problem is all my vertical holes and slots end up getting squished, but overhangs and bridges look like shit too. Also getting some elephants foot / squishing on the lower layers, but that stopped when I set the bed temp down to 30 (basically off).
Tried adding an extra cooling fan aimed at the bed, lowering temps, and a few other things, but I still end up with problems to some degree.

I'm using a .4mm nozzle, should I try .2mm? I need .05 - .1mm layers because most of the parts I print are smol, so can't change that much.

>>1432654
Not much, sadly.
Just searching "Sexy", "Nude", "Female" etc on 3d model sites is the most you're gonna get.
You can't just export models from games because games use about 90% texturing to 10% actual modeling to get detail across.
One of the only decent 3d modelers that makes printables is COLOR3DJP, and they're just so over the top with weird facial expressions that 90% of their stuff is painful to look at.
Anime's even harder, just modeling an anime character with textures is hard, doing so entirely based on geometry is near fucking impossible short of just 3d scanning figures.

>>1439073
acquire better cooling nigga

>>1439081
>COLOR3DJP
kinda dislike his stuff desu

>>1432691
>PLA warps when it is hot or doesn't have enough time to cool
Actually it seems like it warps more when the printed part is cool, so the printer is laying down a hot layer, it shrinks a little bit and puts some stress on the part. The higher the temperature difference, the more it warps, so printing PLA in a 50ºC heated chamber is better than printing it in open air.

Source: been printing PLA at 18ºC ambient temperature with no heatbed

>>1432681
>corner of the current layer keeps curling up

Corner-curling, on the other hand, is better remedied by having a lot of cooling

>>1439085
As I said, good details, but the faces fucking ruin everything

>>1439081
If the model lacks detail but have a bump/depth map, it is possible "burn in" the details for printing. Blender can do it.

>>1439127
Doesn't mean it'll print, COLOR3DJP's whole deal is that rather than fine detail they can convey the detail with large, sweeping chunks that convert to printed well.
Their models are still stupidly high poly for what they are, just so they look "Smooth", but there is no fine detail

What's the best newfag printer for under $250?
The MP Mini looks like a good deal, but I want something with a larger build volume.

>>1439073
change print orientation, add supports, better cooling is the 3 things I would do

>>1439081
>COLOR3DJP
Yeah, they're very good at sculpting the body and everything else but those faces are probably (intentionally) fetish-tier and deformed. Good thing the Zelda bust I printed for a friend's birthday was normal, though.

>>1439137
Creality Ender 3 (build volume 8.6" x 8.6" x 9.4") is said to very good cost/performance wise, with luck you can get a Tronxy X5S for 250$ through some coupons or sale, they have a larger build volume 12"x12"x15", but probaly will need further tweaking.

>>1438773
>cheap enclosure
Cardboard box
>doesn't look like this
Pic related

>>1439145
Can confirm, the Ender 3 is a great value, but get a glass bed because the beds are usually warped out of the box. Other than that it's pretty solid, there are a few printable mods that can help (wire clips, filament guides, fan vents).

>>1439146
That's a really neat idea, actually.

>>1439084
>>1439142
Thanks. Printing a fan vent mod right now.
First pic was an example print, some prints I do don't have the option of changing orientation. I'll have to start modeling custom supports though, because Cura's auto supports are tarded.

>>1439127
Have fun slicing that 7 gigabyte stl.

>>1437473
>using a combination of blender and F360

my man. I use blender + meshmixer + solidworks and there's almost nothing I can't do or STL's I can't edit.

>>1439054
>poorfags can enjoy 32bit controllers too
isn't the MP select mini 32bit?

>>1439307
Most likely since it has a nice screen and wifi which 8 bit can't deal with. As I said, if its possible at those price points, you can definitely see a cheap 32bit standalone controller appearing sometime in the next year.

>>1439223
that is what meshmixer is for

>>1439145
>>1439156
What's a good place to buy the Ender 3? Gearbest has it for $189, but I hear that the customer service is godawful

>>1439369
gearbest is fine. Plus, you're guaranteed to get a revised improved version. Comgrow is still selling off their old batch.

>>1439387
What about this seller?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Creality-Ender-3-3D-Printer-Resume-Print-OSHW-Certified-220X220X250mm-DC-24V-15A/222912414553?epid=27017642713&hash=item33e69d8359%3Ag%3Aw4QAAOSwsThbPll%7E&_nkw=ender+3&rt=nc

>>1439389
that's fine as well

>>1439127
You got any Bad Dragon 3D models?

>>1439396
All of them.

>>1439400
Can you hook a guy up? Got a Mega link or something? I want to print out tiny dicks and attach them onto other models.

'Bout time for a new thread if nobody's already baked one.

>>1439369
>>1439389
I just got mine off of Amazon, cause prime...
Seller on Amazon called Comgrow is where I got it from, they seem to have a good rep. They sent me an email a bit after it was delivered saying to contact them if anything was up with the printer, very cordial.

But the best price you'll get on amazon is $200, so you're paying a premium for peace of mind. They really do let you return / refund anything these days

>>1439401
Sure "attach them onto other models"
Post pics btw

u.coka.la/zAkUm6.zip

There are usually normal maps attached to the models, so you can "burn in" the bump map with blender just like >>1439127

>>1439408
>u.coka.la/zAkUm6.zip

>>1439428
not the poster but it looks fine

https://www.virustotal.com/en/file/a311fee8adf43d8cda20203758b671abb4d1d8aac380827de5ceab237e8956e6/analysis/

If someone makes a new thread without a collage and link to old thread Im gonna print a fucking one use shotgun and backtrace your IP.

>>1439528
good luck
i'm behind 7 printers

>>1439428
Interesting since the file i uploaded and the file i downloaded are identical. I think the file host doesnt have certificates or some shit.
I cant be arsed to find a new file host so you will have to take the chance.

Hey guys /k/ here? Maybe you guys could help me out. I just downloaded the files for the liberator 3d pistol from CodeIsFreeSpeech.com But when i opened the files in cura the parts are incredibly tiny. do you know what could be causing this? is it a scaling issue? If so what percent do i scale it up?

>>1439779
it's usually a factor of 10 or 2.54, depending on if the original model was metric or imperial.