/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1421512
Half the bullshit doesn't even go to the thing I bought.

>>1421516
The seller handed me a 3 gallon bucket of bullshit as I was loading up the thing in my truck.

>>1421518
Some of it is a tad crusty. I've got it all soaking in a bucket of evaporust now. I will update later today with the results.

>>1421518
Looks like number 3 Morse taper Jacobs’s chucks
Clean them up, find a key that fits
Sell them for $30.00 each its worth buying a $5. Key.
Determine the name of the maker
Some of those chucks will sell between $50. And $150us.
The same with the lathe center.
Either 3 or 4morse taper.
Clean the rust sell for profit.

>>1421512
What’s in the box top left.

I gots to know!
(Name that movie)

>>1421586
top-left is a drill press table turned on edge
(bottom of table pointed toward camera)

(it was empty)

>>1421613
>drill press table
a second look made me decide it's the base instead of the table

>>1421512
>precision tooling not so precise after being rusted

>>1421512

>drill press

>toolposts
>morse taper reamers/drills/chucks
>4 jaw chuck
>faceplate
>lathe milling attachment ($$$)
>homemade lathe post grinder
>arbors

you bought a drill press and it came with a bucket of lathe accessories?

>>1421613
>>1421616
OP again. Here is the thing. The underside of the base has some rust and the whole thing is grimy as fuck but it is otherwise good.

>>1421583
They are all Jacobs except for the funky one directly above the morse taper drill bits. I have no idea who made it. It has rounded chuck teeth for holding round stock. I haven't taken too close a look at it yet but it doesn't use a key.

>>1421586
It is an old tea bag box. It has various oil cups in it. Useful.

>>1421625
This is true. On the bright side, the knurler is in pretty good shape.

>>1421626
Yup. I didn't buy this stuff, it came with the drill press.The seller handed it to me right before I left and hadn't mentioned it before that. What you are not seeing is a ton of standard round shank drill bits and even more morse taper drill bits, which I had already pulled aside and put in the drink to clean up. They were on top so I guess he thought it was all drill press stuff. They were also selling a very nice Clausing lathe for just under a grand. I didn't have that kind of money.

>>1421634
Nice has a varislow. Be sure not to try to move it unless the spindle is running. Looks like a rustier version of mine.

>>1421512
interesting vice.

>>1421759
>>1421512
That is a vertical lathe milling attachment, and its the only thing of value in the lot. Depending on the make it may be worth $1-200
The 4 jaw chuck will sell from 30-80 dpending on what it is, not much more though because it doesnt have bolt on jaws.
Jacobs chucks will sell for $20-40
Reamers are all trash, the morse taper bits arent worth more than 15-20 as a lot, nobody wants lantern tool posts or tool holders, grinding wheels arent precision after being treated like shit.

Its worth parting and selling but nothing of real value.

>>1421770
>>Nothing of real value
I guess it depends on your definition of value.

>>1421842
>I guess it depends on your definition of value.

There are some vintage lathe accessories that are worth a LOT of money

OP here. The story I got from the seller was that the original owner got into repairing cars after coming back from WWII. Around 1952 he moved away from the city to my neck of the woods and opened a small shop of his own. He ran this shop out of an outbuilding on his property until about 1997. By then he was doing classic cars only. The building had enough space for 2 cars and several workbenches. After that, he did some personal stuff but only used the shop sparingly. He died about a decade back and one of his sons got the property. He son wasn't a mechanical type and he was in his 60s himself at that point so everything just sat. Some months back the son got a cancer diagnosis and he turned to a friend of the family to liquidate the house so he could move to be with family. That sale is how I got the press.

The friend of the family had cleaned up the shop for the sale. Cutting oil had permeated the walls, the wiring job was downright scary and there were many spots where you could see through the insulation to the outside. It seems the roof had failed in a corner, which is why all of the tooling was shot. The drill press, lathe, two grinders on pedestals, a power hacksaw (donkey saw), an arc welder, a torch and tank set, a very large compressor, several very large car jacks (picture related but not restored), 3 Lyon work benches and piles of obscure car parts (Edison-Mazda light bulbs anyone?) were all in good, usable shape. Really, the only things with issues were the two buckets of tooling. They had been in a wooden wardrobe type thing that was in the bad corner and just got fucked.

OP again. I looked over the tools a bit. So far I can't tell who made the tool rest. It might be under the grime and rust somewhere.

As for the chucks they are:
Jacob's Chuck No. 3A
Jacob's Chuck No. 34
Jacob's Chuck No. 75A
Jacob's Chuck No. 100 (an armature chuck) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LZqOr-wi9Ik

There is also I tiny little Supreme chuck on a shop made tool of some kind. You can see it in the top right of this picture >>1421516.

Finally, there is a small Goodell & Pratt three jawed lathe center. It's about 2 inches across and mounted on a rod that is about as thick as a pencil.

>>1421880
Oh, and the lathe center from >>1421518 is a Westcott.

>>1421884
Thumbnail made me think it was a PSA to remind you to take the key out

>>1421512
Cool stuff, those adjustable reamers would be nice to have if they clean up well.

>>1421967
Why don't people just attach their keys to a cord with a dead man switch like on every fucking bass boat made?

>>1422018
because you need to wire in a special switch
because where would you attach the cord - a ring around the shaft because you need to spin it and it will get in the way anyway?

and everyone learns not to leave it in from the key embedded in the wall with a frame around it or from coworker stories

>>1422028
>and everyone learns not to leave it in from the key embedded in the wall with a frame around it or from coworker stories

As much as Harbor Freight tiny lathe sucks, it has a great feature: that plastic shield has to be lifted to put the chuck key in, and the plastic key also has a switch that is only closed when the shield is down, so you cannot start the lathe with the shield up, and the chuck key must be removed to lower the shield.

I guess real lathes have different size chucks so it might be impractical on them.

>>1421512

Those all look like drill accessories. I would keep that shit it will come in handy

>>1422028
Safety interlocks are common features on modern industrial equipment. It seems fairly stupid that this is still a thing.

I see a bunch of rusty old crap. Maybe seeing the post evaporust would change my mind.

>>1421512
You lucky bastard! Thats very nice collection of pricy tools! 1K for proper lathe.. damn i wish i could come up such deal here!

>>1422078
And thats why people make shit ton of money from people like you :D
One persons crap is anothers treasure. Just last year i got 1K top quality gas grill for free, cause it needed some cleaning and new knob. Knob was fiver and bottle of dish soap was couple bucks.

>>1422084

You can find a bunch of rusty old bits and wrenches in every garage in America.

>>1421586
Dirty Harry

OP here. The first batch of stuff is out. Most of the larger bits and reamers still have some surface rust so they are going for another round. These here have been cleaned, dried, and coated with a rust inhibitor.

The first chuck cleaned up very well. It spins easily and the faces of the jaws are smooth. The Morse taper is in less good shape. It has pitting.

The drill bits did very well. Outside of some pitting here and there they will be quite usable.

The adjustable reamers had a lot of pitting but nowhere that mattered. The standard reamers look great.

The arbors cleaned up okay. Threads are mint but there was some pitting as you can see.

>>1422045
That kind of guarding is very common on 'real' lathes (manual, that is) and they're a pain in the ass. They get in the way when you're working in close to the chuck and they completely block your view. IMO their only redeeming factor is that they contain coolant slinging off your chuck.

>>1422325
Be sure to measure the reamers before you trust them. Measure them with a mic at the tip. It is a little tricky to get a good measurement because you need really good alignment. I'm amazed they all turned out as good as it did though.

>>1422325
that drill on the far left, is that a morse shank drill stuck in an adapter? If so, maybe you could separate them and the adapter could prove very useful for actually using these bits in your new drill press.

OP again. I went to pull the last batch out of the Evaporust and it was just as rusty as when I last checked it. So, my solution is used up. It's a few years old and I've used to 3-4 times before this so that is not surprising. I'll have to get a new batch, which may be a while.

>>1422489
It is.

>>1422535
go to the dairy aisle at your local hardware store and pick up some milkstone remover. It may be sold under a few different names, such as pipeline wash, etc, but the primary active ingredient ins phosphoric acid.

Works great as a rust remover. Careful though, I've completely dissolved sheet metal parts I've forgotten in the tub before. Granted that's after a few weeks.

>>1422434
lol no, the flutes on reamers are offset at funky angles ( a few degrees on the second flute, a few more on the third, etc. ) they figured out variable flute geometry on reamers a long time ago.

Cut a hole with it and measure the hole.

>>1422541
Thank you for the suggestion but I don't think it is a good idea to use a strong acid on parts with a cutting edge and parts that have softer metals inside of them (like one of the chucks). The reason I didn't use even want to use vingar on these is because they are, despite their appearances, still sharp. Someday I will get around to making an electrolysis setup but until then Evaporust is the best non-etching rust cleaner out there.

>>1422544
Right, just a suggestion. And I completely agree.
It's great for things such as inside gas tanks, crusty old hand tools, hardware, and anything else that may be incredibly crusty.

>>1422325
those big reamers would be relatively pricy if they were new, I'd keep it all and use it OP.

>>1422543
Huh, didn't know that. That's not universally true though right? I've measured many small reamers and they seemed all pretty nominal down to the tenths.

>>1422553
Some of them aren't variable flute, but most probably are.

>>1422555
Actually, maybe they aren't variable flute...

The machinery's handbook 30th edition has a section on reamers written probably 30+ years ago or more where the author clearly preferred variable flute reamers and has a section dedicated to angle offsets for different flute counts.

>>1422553
need to set up a reamer in an indexing head or rotary table and measure the flute offset angles

OP here. The new batch of Evaporust arrived. I will post more when the next batch of stuff is cleaned up.

>>1424643
Life happened so I'm a bit late. This will be a bit of an index image.

>>1425994
Here is the next batch. Mostly chucks. Every chuck in this image was rusted and frozen as seen above.

>>1425994
1: Armature chuck No: 1. This one did move slightly but it doesn't use a key so I had to move it by hand. It only went about an eighth of a turn before sticking. Now it spins freely.

2: Completely frozen. Now it spins without a problem.

3: This guy was frozen even after the bath. Luckily all of these guys use the same key (Jacobs 3 series), of which there was one in the batch. I put a key into it and whacked it with a rubber mallet until it worked free. It took about 15 minutes of washing it while working the thing open and closed before the water stopped coming out black. By the time I was done, you would spin it by hand.

4: Again frozen. Afterward, spins like a top.

5: See below.

6: Now this I have no idea what it is. The two halves had very delicate knurling around their outsides. I think all the bits are rusted together internally because I couldn't free anything up even with a mallet. Some kind of tool holder?

7: Somehow the 7 moved on me in the image. It is the knurling tool. I only realized after I took the picture that it was before a chuck but, as you can see, it is now rust free.

Now, this little guy was described by >>1421625 as a threading die head. It is in fact, another chuck. Made by the Cushman Chuck company. They are still around.

>>1426002
The Hartford No. 1
Pat'd Dec. 16, 1884

Well, ain't that a hoot. They would have stopped putting the patent on the tool once it expired so it must have still been valid when this chuck was built. That means it is well over 100 years old and could be as old as 134.

>>1426004
It as a grand total of 4 parts. 2 jaws, a screw, and a body. That is it.

>>1426005
This is from their 1926 catalog. The only newer catalogs I can find are from 30 years later and only have lathe chucks. So, they made this guy for at least 40+ years. "Built to give long life and good service under the most exacting conditions." Ain't that the truth. The only change seems to be the plate covering the works on the newer models. Mine is a No. 1, which was $12 in 1926. That is $168.93 accounting for inflation. I paid $100 for the whole lot including the drill press.

>>1422325
Evaporust is amazing stuff and it's reusable if you keep the top of the resealable bucket it comes in. Much better than using plain vinegar to soak rust out of things.

>>1421512
you can probably use those chucks on your drill press table to hold round stuff...

>>1426083
it would be kind of amusing to mount a 4 jaw on a drill press spindle

Last batch of reamers and drill bits.

Overall the drill bits came out great, the reamers not so much. Some of the reamers look almost new, others have terrible bitting along their cutting surfaces.

All that is left are the lathe odds and ends.

But wait, there's more.

I picked up an hold Hinsdale G-20 toolset a while back and promptly forgot about it.

>>1428025
Looks like some water got inside at some point. Does anyone have any tips on how to get the rust out of the inside of the box? It is much too long for my Evaporust bucket.

Hinsdale went under around 1930-32 due to the depression, so this set is at least that old. They were an early OEM for Sears' Craftsman brand and also sub-contracted out work to other companies. Their collapse left one of their contractors stuck with a bunch of unpaid for tools so they decided to form their own tool brand to sell them directly. That company was Sherman-Klove; S-K.

>>1428032
Paper towels, evaporust, saran wrap.

Use an old paintbrush to get the loose rust out, then lay in paper towels soaked in evaporust. Then lay saran wrap over the wet towels.

>>1428032
you could try the loctite brand rust remover jelly, it stick where you put it, but I wouldn't want to get it on my skin, or anything painted...

loctite naval jelly, just don't get it on you

>>1428032
>container is too big for evaporust
put the evaporust in the container then

>>1421512
Sellers name wasn't by any chance Mad Max?

>>1428220
It is not watertight.

>>1428567
3 mil trash bag and wrap it up

>>1422124
+1 internet points for you anon.


Harry Callahan: Uh uh. I know what you're thinking. "Did he fire six shots or only five?" Well to tell you the truth in all this excitement I kinda lost track myself. But being this is a .44 Magnum, the most powerful handgun in the world and would blow your head clean off, you've gotta ask yourself one question: "Do I feel lucky?" Well, do ya, punk?

Thanks OP
I like the thread

And here are the sockets and such after the soak.

>>1430659

I think you went too far.

>>1430668
lol

I don't mean to be a debbie dun downer but none of this shit is worth the investment of time OP put into it. Furthermore, more modern drill bits have carbide tips--much better than the tool steel OP has--and OP has to sharpen those bits, a task I don't think he's up to.

Just my opinion.

>>1430659
And my internet took a shit. Clearly, the image didn't post and I've only now gotten back online. One more again. The strangest set of sockets I have ever seen. The ratchet is extremely primitive. You have to flip it over and move the square drive bit to work it the other direction. The sockets appear to have been drilled and broached at least 4 times. They also milled out a ring in the middle of some of the larger sockets for some reason. Very strange.

>>1430709
>modern drill bits have carbide tips
I hate carbide tipped tools. When it comes right down to it, because this is a hobby and I don't spend all my free time doing it, I really don't know what I am doing and I have chipped just about every carbide thing I've ever owned. Meanwhile...

>and OP has to sharpen those bits, a task I don't think he's up to.
Because almost all of my stuff is HSS I've learned to sharpen things quite well! I have an old B&D No. 4300 drill bit sharpener for all the small stuff (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RzgiyLbeXPQ)) and a pedestal grinder and a jig for the big stuff. Also, as I said in >>1422544 the drill bits are still sharp. Even after coming out of the bath you can cut yourself on the edge. Guess how I learned that?

>none of this shit is worth the investment of time OP put into it
Literally takes me longer to post these posts then it does to clean the stuff up.

5 seconds: Dump the junk into a bucket of evaporust and walk away
5 minutes: Pull the stuff out a day later and dump it in my utility sink. Wash the solution off plus any gunk left over and let dry.
15 seconds: Hit the junk with a rust protector.
5 minutes: Try to take a picture that isn't blurry as fuck and curse myself for breaking my tripod a few months back.
3 minutes: Upload the pictures and downscale them to fit under the image size limit.
5 minutes: Write a long ass post on 4chan that will be deleted in a week.
2 minutes: Read over it and fix all the spelling errors.
Done

>>1430709
>more modern drill bits have carbide tips

"Modern" twist drills are all high speed steel, or they are solid carbide. And complete solid carbide twist drills are specialized tools.
The only "carbide tip" drill bits out there are fucking hammer drill masonry bits.

Your opinion is shit because its based in ignorance.

>>1430709
>Furthermore, more modern drill bits have carbide tips

what kind of moron are you

>>1430781
>he doesn't use sharpened tungsten carbide drill bits to drill hardened steel.

>>1430709
How the fuck would you know if this is a good investment Of OP’s time?

Self loathing people will impart their own feelings on to someone else. Mayby cleaning up these stools are not worthy of your. Maybe you’re just jealous that op found these items and is taking the time to restore them.

Either way a physiologist can help you with your self loathing behavior

>>1430787
No I dont
Too expensive and too brittle when HSS-Co bits arent that much more money than standard HSS and will eat through hardened steel all day long.

>>1421967
>>1421884
>>1421880
3-jaw chucks are for amateurs and woodworkers. If you want true precision, only way to go is a 4-jaw and a dial indicator.

>>1431714
based 4jaw bro, i agree 100%
except when i dont want to indicate or measure anything

>>1430787
>he doesnt use a holepopper to drill holes in carbide

>>1431714
Or a buck chuck. Or soft jaws.

>>1431714
>Finally, there is a small Goodell & Pratt three jawed lathe center. It's about 2 inches across and mounted on a rod that is about as thick as a pencil.
>3-jaw chucks are for amateurs and woodworkers
Do they make 4 jaw chucks that small?

>>1431714
>3-jaw chucks are for amateurs and woodworkers.

Dunning Kruger effect in action
The two chucks co-exist because they both have their own specific applications anon.

>look at me, im going to install my 4 jaw and indicate on mill scale when im just turning a quick bushing!

>>1421518
That appears to be a german antitank mine and several stick grenades. you should notify your local police.

>>1431714
>>1431733
>You are now aware that adjustable three jaw chucks exist

Where is your god now...

Seriously though, anyone who's actually running production on a lathe will be using an adjustable three/six jaw chuck 95% of the time, you get all of the precision of a four jaw with the speed of a three jaw, the only thing you really cant do is significant offsets which is enough justification to keep a four jaw around but it never gets used most of the time.

>>1434360
take those fucking keys out! REEEE!!!

>>1434445
I'm sure they're only in for the photo, besides they don't look to large enough to do any real damage

>>1434464
I think it was included to show off his welding skills.

>>1434360
Aka a buck chuck.

>>1434360
You'd probably have soft jaws or even fixtures for high production instead or the four jaw if you can help it. For non-production, for jaws are still always useful for holding square it rectangular stock.

>>1434464
>besides they don't look to large enough to do any real damage
so do a lot of things

>>1434360
You can take a couple jaws out of a 6 jaw and hold square stuff.

>>1434474
meant to reply to ^

>>1434638