/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1352975

Just bought a brand new Maker Select Pro (15710) for $25 today. Was at an outlet store (Bargain Hunt) and this had been buried under a bunch of crap for months, so ended up getting a massive discount (each week the discount goes up 10%). Brand new and I've always wanted a 3D printer so for $25 I ain't complaining.

Really nothing to ask, unless does anyone have experience with this printer or the brand? Is it decent?

>>1352593 here
I've used some Pritt glue stick, with 10mm brim and it adhered very well.
The finish is complete dogshit tho.
How do I achieve an even layer of glue?
I need to print at least 3 more parts this big where the finish is outwards, so having something pretty is better

>>1353097
sand it.

>>1353097
>>1353098
Nuts to that, use liquid (PVA) glue and smooth with a razor. If you thin it properly, it'll self-level and won't run over the edges.

>>1353097
haven't tried this, but you can try diluting a glue stick in a container of water

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4mBVws5DsWg

>>1353105
Just pour some hot water into half a bottle of Elmer's

I'm having issues of my prints not being even with the bed. Im trying with raising/ lowering my nozzle, but nothing works. I've replaced my motherboard and I'm using the same Marlin firmware I had before, I only changed the motherboard setting.

Repost from last thread. I really appreciated anon's advice. To add to it, are there any recommended tutorials for Fusion 360, or is it all just google and youtube till I figure shit out?
>>1352846
Thanks, man. So far I've achieved the results I wanted with grayscale height mapping (just adding a black to white gradient stroke in photoshop) through Shapeway's 2d to 3d online tool, downloading the x3db file and converting it to stl in Netfabb, then loading it into tinkercad (because that program is about my speed).
The grayscale draft is not an ideal method, as it's mostly gueswork on how steep the angles will be.
I have fusion 360 and will look into learning it. It seemed so difficult that it's the entire reason I asked this question to begin with, but I can see this hobby having a lot of use outside of just making plaques, so might as well learn to use the more advanced program.

>>1353141
Anon, use newest marlin with delta configuration and customize it. Also invest in auto bed leveling, either with inductive or capacitive probe. Or plain mechanical endstop as z probe.

Also a bubble level is still a thing ya know.

>>1353156
Already have the newest Marlin and I have a nozzle end stop system for auto leveling. I use the newer g33 delta mesh and g29 for quick leveling. It just doesn't work anymore.

>>1353160
Either mechanical issue or ya fuck up delta config.

I would check whole frame for any wobble, lose rods etc.

In the end you can always print new 3d printer.

>>1353169
>Not when your original doesn't work :^)

>>1353141
I got one of those. The autolevel never worked for me, I just manually level it by moving the nozzle around the bed and adjusting the bed height screws until only a piece of paper fits under the tip.

>>1353188
>>1353141
I should add, move the nozzle around using g1 commands with z=0. Send it to z=10 at first to make sure it doesn't just crash into the bed.

anyone do product/invention prototyping with their 3d printer? Should I just use 3dhubs and save myself the headache?

>>1353229
Do you tend to fuck up when prototyping? I do, and designs change constantly.
I bought a 3d printer because Shapeways was getting too expensive. Most recent part I designed would be over $200. Figured out a while back that the 3d printer would pay itself off quick enough if I just supplied for myself. I supposed it depends on what you're prototyping. I do hobby work on a pretty big scale. Buying a printer definitely is the way to go.

>>1353097
Your slicer should have a raft setting, use that. And make the distance between thw part and the raft something like 0.4mm in the setting so that they actually detach.

>my Garchomp in between jellyfish sculpture and chocolate fountain woman

ayy i'm so proud

>>1353362
Could be (a little) worse.

I'm being crushed by demand. Anybody have any good contacts for print-managing slaves I could buy?

I just setup my 4th octoprint server and may setup a 5th this weekend.

>>1353362
Thats a pretty cool pikachu, anon. what are you going to do with it when you're done?

What 30 and 40mm coolers can I get from Aliexpress that come with decent connectors and not that 2.0mm garbage?

>>1353362
How do you paint your prints?

>>1353500
I know you've mentioned disliking the thought before, but maybe it's for real time to start small-scale injection molding? You can buy your own equipment for it - it won't be large or automated, but it'll exist. I'm unsure about the shot size they have, though.

>>1353620
Or silicone moulds.

>>1353620
>maybe it's for real time to start small-scale injection molding?
I've looked into it and unfortunately the cubic volume of the majority of my parts are beyond what can be accomplished consistently with low-end injection-molding equipment.

I currently own $6,000 worth of 3d printers.

Bench-top injection molding equipment starts at $5,000. And can't produce more than a quarter of my parts.

I would have to do a timescale study to see if spending $5,000 on that would be more efficient than just buying 3 more printers. I might still be below the production margin where injection-molding starts to pay off in both time savings and investment costs.

And every time I reapproach the issue I discover that the "floor" on investment for equipment that is useful for the next level of production the price point seems to climb to $20,000.

So I either continue on the current path but with more printers, or I have to look into a small business loan.

First World Problems

>>1353627
I think they've mentioned issues with repeatability or mess - it's only really possible to put a liquid resin in them, which can be a hassle to deal with

>>1353633
More towards the printer side, have you looked into a fusion3 or a stacker2/4 by chance

>>1353633
Consider getting a CNC mill and milling out some of the parts. I'm willing to bet that many of them can be made using subtractive machining instead of additive tech.

>>1353633
Oh, and also, try contacting Patrick at AsiaMechatronics.com He can make you molds for very reasonable prices, and his quality is excellent -- he used to do a lot of work for plastic lenses, i.e., optical quality molds.

>>1353653
>fusion3
For that price I could buy 3 lulzbot minis and have money left over.
>stacker2/4
Same issue. It's more heads duping individual parts like a pentagraph but at a high price. Without being competitive with individual printers on price.

If I were looking into getting industrial-grade 3d printers I would probably consider an NVBots NVPro because it does automated part removal, so it could churn out parts constantly even when I'm not home. And I could control it remotely from work to boot.

The downside is that you lease the printer on a yearly amount.
>Consider getting a CNC mill
I don't have a climate controlled space where I can put it. And updating my workshop to be air conditioned would be $6k on-top of whatever CNC mill I would be looking at. My parts don't demand the kind of strength that CNC milling would require.
>try contacting Patrick at AsiaMechatronics.com
Thanks for the reference, but I can already get molds made at my day job for a very low rate since I would be providing the CAM programming.
I would still have to have the injection molding equipment and that's the hurdle I can't get over yet.

>>1353971
God I haven't heard of NVBots since all that hoopla like 1 to 2 years ago.

And fuck lease only contract for a printer, I understand and agree with service repair contracts for 90% of the industrial grade machines out there. But lease only, fuck that.

With Marlin and Ramps 1.4, how do I change the pins that the bed thermistor plugs into? I Have my bed thermistor plugged into T1 over here, but I think that the pins themselves are fried. The thermistor itself seems to work, so I am hoping that there is a way to plug it into T2 and have it still work.

>>1353971
Buy more desktop printers and hire your neighbor's kid to run them.

>>1353971
>climate control for CNC
Wait, what? Why do you think they need climate control? Or are you using something that generates a lot of heat?

How do I install Marlin onto my Cube 3 3d Printer

>>1354039
marlin has the pins.h to do exactly that, just set T0 to the T2 pins and uncommit the T2 from there, compile it then yer done

>>1354080
new controller board, someone tried to remove cube irlRM on the filament and bricked one of those locally, if you have 25 bucks and crimps it may work to replace...

>>1354079
>Why do you think they need climate control?
Well, the only square footage I have for it is an uninsulated shed that has an electrical sub-panel but doesn't have a soffet. I don't exactly want to invest in something that expensive and run the risk of a bird, mouse, or squirrel building a nest in/on it.

So fixing the shed would have to come first.

But I still don't have any parts that need to be made with CNC except for molds should I eventually want to invest in limited scale injection-molding.

For the time being I'm just working on making individual production steps easier and more convenient. I should buy a new drillpress because two I have are old and tired. As well as a band saw because the current one has fucked up guides and no blade.

>>1354249
Why the Lulzbot mini and not some ultimaker clones? They have the same footprint yet 5 or 6 yhe build volume

>>1354469
2.37 times the build volume

>>1354470
*2.37 times the build _area_

Wonderful development today. I passed the first hurdle in being able to produce my own wiper pads for the lulzbot mini farm. I make a razor blade splitting jig to cut the 1-inch wide polyester felt into 1/2-inch wide strips.

Now I can try some alternate methods for coating the sides. The method specified in the whitepapers by aleph objects is an ABS/Acetone sludge soak, but I would like to try a few other methods too.
>>1354469
>build volume
Largely unimportant for production purposes. What matters is machine uptime (reliability). I have my daily schedule setup around 4-1/2 hour print shifts. I don't try to cram infinite quantities of parts into the build area, instead I focus on what will fit within the time window for a single print shift, and then have a little bit of time remaining to cool off before removal.

Longer prints with more parts run a greater risk of going to shit. Even the print shift that occurs while I'm sleeping is setup to be 4-1/2 hours maximum for this reason.

>>1354573
>Longer prints with more parts run a greater risk of going to shit.

That's very true, also why I think it's mostly a waste to have a bed that is larger than 200x200mm

>>1354503
(200*200)/(150*150) = 1.77

That's the build area

>>1354249
What could you possibly need more than 1 printer for? I've read of people with more than 4.. why?

Who else /mrrf/ here?

>>1354606
>Indiana
>Midwest
How? If anything that's central, it's even east of the middle of the US

>>1354596
>why?
Smallish scale production.

I am selling a product made primarily out of printed parts.

See
>>1353633

There are 23 parts per assembly, and I sell 15 to 20 of those assemblies per week.
Current production rate is 3 assemblies per day across 5 printers. And any inbetween time produces accessories that I sell at a slightly better margin than the assembly itself.

The rest of the consumables are hardware items that I have to cut to length/shape prior to assembly and packaging.

Finally got around to trying out vase mode and i've gotta say it worked wonderfully. With a 0.2mm nozzle this paraboloid turned out very light weight, perfect for my application. Only problem is that for some reason the motors always seemed to turn off for a split second in one place after completing the circuit around the part leaving a small seam.

>>1354895
And here's my use for such a part, an aerodynamic nose cone for my nitro fuel tank.

>>1354899

>>1354900
cool dildo hack

>>1354922

True, it would hack apart your asshole if you stick that in there

>>1354606
Make sure to check out e3d, they are showing off a new machine + new tool changer

>>1354965
Hello, Sanjay. Post pics from the festival.

>1344693
>1344705
Ok So I'm FINALLY back.

After I killed my printer i ordered BOTH theprint head and the mainboard for a good measure, they are cheap anyways.
The post was FUCKING AWFUL but shit finally arrived.

SURPRISINGLY the new CR-10 print head was significantly improved. from the design standpoint.
>the new heatsink has much more and denser fins, looks better how
>The heating block now secured with the screaws to prevent the user from accidentally twisting it when replacing the nozzle
>The wires I accidentally shorted now have extra tape on them to prevent that

Even hough my old hot end is still ok ordering a replacement was an improvement.

However now my room kinda has hot plastic smell when printing while it.
The new hot end definitely stinks.
previously hasn't had any smell at all.
Did I fuck up when I put the bowden tube all the way down into the cold end of the print head? I had no idea how deep it is supposed to go and pushed it all the way.

Or is some plastic smell a normal thing for a new hot end?

>>1353633
look into a custom molder that does most of their molding/mold building overseas.
You are gonna want to simplify a lot of your parts beforehand to make the molds cheaper too

you guys do laser engraving too right?

I was looking at cheap laser engravers on aliexpress. But, they all seem to have the drawback of crappy software. Is there a good one which works with a Mac?

I have a little bit of interest in 3D printing. Maybe a custom case for my arduino.

What printers and modeling software should I look at? Something low-budget $50 - $200.

>>1355047
Freecad/Blender for modelling
Slic3r for slicing

Chinkshit i3 kit for printer

>>1355047
>What printers
Tronxy X1
>modeling software
Give tinkercad a try, it runs in your browser and is super easy to use, perfect for dipping your feet into the modeling world and getting quick results. A lot of people are using fusion 360, since it is more universal than other CAD software, learing curve is a bitch though.

Returned my Monoprice Select Mini 2 to Amazon and got refunded after 3 months of using lol. I want one in $500-800 range next, would the Prusa i3 MK2S my my best choice? Probably won't get one till I see a sale so is there any upcoming to wait for?

anyone use the Anycubic Kossel Linear? Considering it or the Anycubic i3 mega, would love the hear opinions

Is the Tevo Tarantula good? RCLIfeOn on youtube suggested it but does anyone here have any experience with them? Also, Can I use any material for this(Or 3d printers in general)? the flexible stuff kinda sold me on getting a 3D printer. I would mostly make smaller stuff anyways so the 20x20x20 seems big enough.

>>1355092
And yes, I saw a video about needing to get the fans for it and to print a new reinforcement and fanholder but I guess that's fine.

>>1355047

Have you looked at the Monoprice Mini Delta? It's $160 and has some nice features, though speaking as someone who just bought one you can expect to do a lot of calibrating at the start.

>>1355092
>>1355093
Or possible the Creality3D CR10-s

>>1354949
like a lightbulb would do any better

>>1355092
If you don't mind having to do a lot of upgrades and tinkering before you can ever print with that flexible filament. The Tevo tornado is a much better printer for less than what you'll have to put into the tarantula to get it right

Tried printing https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1866359 and failed miserably both times. Went with this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2595224 and got it first try

>>1355005
First day of festival is over. It's a bunch of humblebragging engineers criticizing each other's design choices, but that's to be expected.

>>1355311
But also... an old friend. Not sure if this guy is a customer of yours or a manufacturer himself, but I spotted this on a table.

I'm in need of a filament rack/holder and I have some questions

>Which one is the simplest, most effective one to print?
>Are there any good ones to buy? Which ones?
>How do I print one if I don't already have one holding my current spool?

>>1353362
>chocolate fountain woman
Tub girl, you mean tub girl.

>>1355352
What kind of printer do you have? If you have a steel frame you could mount it on the frame itself and feed straight down into the extruder. If not, I'd probably recommend the ones that are 2 rollers on ball bearings, they seem like they work the best.

>>1355311
With so many people making different machines I wonder how people can make any money at all selling them

When wiring a fan for the print surface and a fan for cooling the extruder assembly/ heat sink should they both be wired the same into on of the D8 - D10 ports or should I have the fan that cools the heat sink wired to the main power to have it always on.
I know ABS will mess up sometimes with cooling and I'd like to be able to either turn off the print bead fan or easily disconnect it but don't know which would be easier.

Also for actively cooling the ramps board I made a case and have a fan blowing out of it, should I have it blowing in toward the board instead?

>>1352975
about to start on this sorta shit,i want to build that GLaDOS lamp.

what printer should i buy? has someone invented one that prints in colour yet? if not why not? i dont want to paint shit like a warhammer weeb.

>>1355390

I have my hotend heatsink fan wired directly to the power supply, turning it off only causes heat to creep upwards toward the cold-end and there's no scenario in which you'd want that. With a metal hotend, it needs to always be on. I assume by "heatbed fan" you mean the part cooling fan, that one is supposed to be wired to the control board and whether it's on or off is controlled by the Gcode.

For the board cooling - there's no clearer way to know than trying both ways and comparing the temperatures. I'd have the fan blowing into the case and have an exhaust opening on the other side of the case.

>>1355405
>has someone invented one that prints in colour yet?
Yes, whats your budget?

>>1355426
300 pounds but one that prints in colour? i guess that costs more so im willing to pay more,you got a vid of what these new models can do?

I know at least one company made printers that have multiple resin cartridges of different colors that is cured with a uv laser and imitates most inkjet printers, has anyone made a printer that just uses dissolved ABS in acetone or MEK and avoids needed a heat source or laser at all? I've seen a few ceramic extruders made for the mpcnc and the like but has anyone made a dedicated printer around dissolved plastic?

>>1355468
Just areosolize my napalm, f a m

>>1355472
>what is gloss varnish
>what is smoothing ABS prints with acetone

Should we also stop using flammable wood and fabric in everyday life? You act like acetone doesn't evaporate off ridiculously fast leaving just the rigid ABS polymers behind.

>>1355405
>>1355462
At a glance, it looks like you're screwed (assuming you want to build this guy's lamp and you're not designing your own):

http://www.instructables.com/id/A-fully-3D-printable-GlaDOS-Robotic-ceiling-arm-la/

Doesn't matter what technology you happen to be using: the file needs to be designed around multiple colors or materials to do multi printing. His aren't (he painted his). No reason you coild't design a job like that around a single nozzle FDM (print the black parts in black plastic, print the white ones in white, etc). Fusion360 is free to hobbyists, get cracking.

>>1355468
>dissolved abs in acetone

People have made diy printers with the same inkjet technology you said

FDM will be dead for good once that starts hitting the market. The printheads in those professional grade polyjet machines are the same as on printers for cellphone cases, it's just a matter of making a controller that can control them and read 2 encoders. We'll have full color, very fine layer length and support that can be dissolved in a sodium carbonate solution (like dry film photoresist).

I want a printer that can make stuff used outside, like hooks or holders for tools etc, is the anycubic good? From what I understand its good for abs plastic. Or are there other printers that are good for abs that are cheaper? Not smaller than 20*20*20 preferably tho.

>>1355468
Acetone dissolved ABS is no longer crystalline or w/e, it's semi-amorphous but much weaker than other amorphous plastics like POM. You don't want that, structurally ABS is best when molded under heat. Since we can't injection mold extrusion's the best we'll get.

>>1355538
>Or are there other printers that are good for abs that are cheaper?

Any printer that has a heated bed that can get up to ~90C will work fine for ABS. A heated build chamber is also highly recommended, but it's easy enough to ghetto something up for printers that don't have them.

>>1355575
Can the heatbeads be swutched out? Might just go for the Tarantula >>1355092
Or mini delta that >>1355115 mentioned.

I dont mind upgrading parts in tte long run but I want durability first aestethics second, I got sandpaper if needed.

>>1355380
It's a piece of shit m3d micro. You're talking about the ones where the spool sits on top of the bearings? I was thinking about that but won't the spool get pulled off once it gets too light?

>>1355742
Yeah, something like this. I've never thought of the spool getting pulled off, I suppose it's a possibility for the cardboard/lightweight spools but mine are relatively heavy.

Is there a reason for this? My printer will always read the extruder temperature at some crazy number, even when the thermistor is unplugged. I have tried changing ramps boards and it doesn't seem to do anything. The thermistor itself seems to work fine when I plug it into the bed thermistor's pins.

I'm about to buy an anycubic i3 mega on aliexpress, what are some handy addons I can order at the same time? From printer specific things to general 3d printing things I may not be thinking about

For the fag that went to MRRF, that glitter printer, is it actually an SLS or just a binder jetting that he's trying to pass off, I know he's using an old zcorp 402 which was a binderjetting machine.

>>1355312
>Not sure if this guy is a customer of yours
He is. I have another one I'm building for him that I wasn't anywhere near finishing in time for him to take it to that event. It still has teething issues I haven't been able to resolve yet.

>>1355862
Just out of curiosity, how much are you making off those things? If you had to roughly guess your $/h of purely working towards making them, what would you say it was? I'd love to start doing what you do (make and sell custom stuff) but I don't think I'd be able to make enough money off it to justify putting the time into it.

How do I actually adjust Jerk and accel on my Ender 2 printer? (i think the firmware is marlin)

>Read online that the best way is to print with 8 Jerk and 2000 accel
>open printer motion settings: Jerk is set to 20 and accel to 500
>Change to 8 and 2000
>turn the printer off and back on
>the setting are all back to default

How do I permanently set settings?
Do the gcode settings i do in Cura actually override those on the printer?
If printer has 20/500 settings and I set Cura to make gcode with 8/2000 settings what will actually happen the printer settings or the gcode settings?

>>1355892
Hourly income doing it varies from $15/hr to $21/hr. But I have a niche product and have had an unusual amount of success selling these.

I'm working an additional 2 to 7 hours a day beyond my dayjob in order to keep up with production demand of these. The stress level of it has gone down quite a lot since I ditched the cheaper and more unreliable printers and have some single-task tool setups in place.

>>1355352

I'm currently using this spool holder.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2591850

It's simple and easy to print.(It needs four 608 bearings though.)

I love watching the octoprint gcode viewier while I'm printing

>>1355757
Isnt that the target temp?

I made a belt holder for my mouth fedora.

The other dads are gonna be so jealous

>>1355840
Its a dirty SLS. He used a 2.5W diode laser to melt the glitter, which is made of PET. Parts are pretty fragile, but they do stay together.

>>1356128
He casted parts in resin to keep them together. Probably needs a bigger laser, but the quality is at least somewhat decent.

>>1356128
>Parts are pretty fragile, but they do stay together.
probably because of the inconsistencies in the size/shapes of the glitter flakes. Still looks neat.

>>1356081
That's pretty decent. Thanks for the info.

Anyone have experience with the Moai?

>>1356128
Cool stuff, yeah every picture I saw of it, not a single person bothered to get a picture of the actual toolhead.

>>1356017
I SHOVED YOU SEXY GIRL !

Please respond.
Don't you like sexy girls?

>>1356234
>that cleft-palate looking mouth
>those torpedo tits
>that structurally insufficient waist
0/10, shit rendition of 2B
This is why people don't like weebs

>>1356237
You're a snob

>>1356237
>torpedo tits

God damnit that's all I can see now.

>>1356247
>snob
No, I just don't like bad artwork and anatomy. I love the way they did the robot, however. That picture is much better though.

>>1356271
Wait, shit, I thought that's what they were. That torso is severely deformed.

>>1356247
wow, nice feet

>>1356017

Edit configuration.h in the Marlin firmware, use Arduino IDE to compile, and reflash your printer over USB.

>>1356301
>>>/b/ylyl

Almost done with a print for a buddy of mine. It's a Oculus Rift gun mount for the controllers. Probably the biggest print I've done (after putting it together).

Whats up with the weeb cancer all the sudden?

>>1356325
Looks amazing, how will you finish it up? Post more with end results.

I sort of wanted to start modelling guns and other stuff from video games and movies when i got into 3dp. Had tons of ideas but takes too much time to do them, its quicker to do fungus and jellyfish molds.

>>1356302
>creality
>reflash

>>1356301
KYS you're self

Having a skirt is nice to prime the nozzle. I looked at some prusa settings, whats the point of having 3 layer high skirts?

>>1356787
Dont know why they are doing it, but i got a cheap ass chinese printer and it often still got some filament half stuck to the nozzle from priming it in the corner before the printing, maybe this is so that gets avoided.

>>1356173
I don't have experience with the Moai, but resin printers are fucking gold mines

Print a few rings, show them to jewelry shops around your town and you'll pay it back in no time

I'm definitely getting a Moai for that purpose

>>1356017
You need to store settings to eeprom with M500

>>1356858
That might be it. I usually sit through the first 2-3 layers and fish out the loose bits.

>>1356882
do this
>>1356017
and when it doesnt work, you need to fiddle with marlin, since you can deactivate the eeprom

Tips on printing ultra-detail models, like figurines? I bought a .4 nozzle but I heard it's all about layer height? How do I figure out the minimum supported layer height for my printer? The documentation doesn't say anything about the layer height specs, just x/y resolution.

>>1356787

Makes it easier to remove, probably. I have a textured print bed and removing the super thin layers of a brim or skirt is a nightmare.

>>1357019

Layer height helps reduce the obvious striations that the layers cause, but the caveats are that print time shares a direct relationship with layer height, and small layers tend to have more trouble with overhangs and bridging, since there's less material to support itself.

0.4mm nozzles are the de-facto standard size anymore. 0.2mm is more what I'd expect to use with a "high detail" print.

>reading scientific paper from 2015
>3d printing of bone substitutes
>look at what they're using
>diy 3d printer with a printhead from an HP printer

How much longer until DIY polyjet?

>>1357019
>Tips on printing ultra-detail models, like figurines?
> I bought a .4 nozzle
Everything gets more complicated when you really want to make good result, would suggest you get a .3 and a .25 nozzle (0.2 is only causing troubles not making it worth as far as i have heard) as well and test how small you can go. When you are using such small nozzles you need a filament wiper, since they clog more easily through dust, also the filament need to be really dry, small bubbles can become a problem with a 0.25 nozzle, when a .4 is still good enough. Smaller diameter means lower layer height, which can be become a bitch with first layer lines, so the roughness of bluetape aint good enough anymore, best would be glass with gluestick or something like not worn out buildtak, would recommend using a raft with higher extrusion width for the first layer. Also use real quality PLA, everything else will just make it harder for you. Quality nozzles (plated like Micro Swiss) help quite a bit, since the print doesnt stick so much to the nozzle, but those small nozzles clog for good more easily and things can get expensive quite fast, while the cheap chinese small diameter ones often are just garbage, which can cause much frustation. You migh need a different fan duct that points at nozzle very sharp, since you aint moving around so much, with such a small print. Also you often need to set a higher minimul layer time, try something between 10-25 seconds for a start and look if you can go lower or need to go higher.

Quite a lot stuff to look out for, but you can bet i still forgot some things. One last thing: Prepare for every print to be going on forever.

>>1357231
I think they are still locked behind patients but could be wrong.

>>1357019

>Industrial SLA looks worse than Desktop SLA

>>1355493
>>1357231

>>1357248
Idk about your experiences but i've been using the cheapest ever 0.2mm chinese nozzles for pretty much all of my printing recently because i need really thin walls and i've had absolutely zero problems after gearing down my extruder motor so it has enough strength to push that filament through that tiny hole.

>>1357256
Like that has ever stopped the chinese from cloning stuff

>>1357324
Thing with the chinese stuff is, its a bit of hit or miss, it can be okay, but it also can easily produce a flimsy problem that is so hard to grasp, that you need hours to figure out what it is. For long time i used cheap nozzles and thought they were okay, i switched to plated ones and i sure as hell aint turning back anymore. Also there is the clusterfuck problem, when everything is a bit wonky on your printer, it doesnt matter so much, when you change one thing, since the advance doesnt change so much, but when your printer is tuned in and working proberly, you can see pretty good when one thing isnt working properly anymore.

>>1357351
Well i can certainly relate to a printer being a clusterfuck of little issues having just gotten my Tronxy X1 to work flawlessly after having little issues here and there. That said, i would still never pay any more than a dollar for a nozzle.

>>1357357
Is that rotor zip-tied onto the shaft? I'm horrified.

>>1357361
Ah no, it's an o-ring that provides a non-rigid attachment for the propeller so that in the case of a crash it will not break.

>>1357366
Neat, that's actually a pretty useful idea.

>>1357377
Yep, it's cheap, simple to use, and fairly effective.

>>1357231
>How much longer until DIY polyjet?

Probably going to be a while.

If you mean strictly 1-off DIY, then you can do it right now. Certain inkjet heads (like the HP45) don't have chips, and give direct access to the heaters in the nozzles.

But the problem is that the only good way to make those heads is with semiconductor processes, simply because everything needs to be so stupidly small. Even if the heads themselves are quite cheap, startup costs to get those made are significant, and re-using other companies' print heads isn't workable due to legal issues. It'll be a while before we see a good consumer-level option under $1,000.

>>1357248
>Prepare for every print to be going on forever.

Jesus F. Christ, this. Very roughly speaking, halving the nozzle size decreases material deposition rate by a factor of between 4 and 8. Strongly consider having some way to pause/resume printing and a printer that won't lose its place on loss of power if you use small nozzles like that on the regular.

>>1357401
The surface area of the hole in the nozzle is not everything. Think about it, what is restricting your layer time? Minimum layer time, strength of your extruder, the strength of your x and y motors, and how fast your heat block can heat up the filament. In fact in my experience, going from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.2mm nozzle only a bit over doubles the print time and that is mostly due to layer height, if i use two nozzles at the same layer height the print time will be roughly equal if you adjust your infill options and so on to match the nozzle.

>>1357414
>Think about it, what is restricting your layer time? Minimum layer time, strength of your extruder, the strength of your x and y motors, and how fast your heat block can heat up the filament.

I keep seeing minimum layer time as an excuse for why FDM is so slow, but that's such a shitty reason. Yes, it matters on small parts and small protrusions near the end of a print. But small parts already take little time due to the fact that they're small. Large parts, where layers take a minute or longer, are much more of a concern.

If you take the exact same part, with the same wall thickness and the same feed rate, it will be very close to 2x the print time due to halving the line width. If you halve the layer height, it doubles again to 4x. This is trivially easy to show in the time estimate of your slicer software.

If you're already using low layer heights, sure, it's not going to take THAT much longer. But, for those like me who use their printers to make functional parts and who care much more about whether or not it works rather than surface finish, it's going to be much slower. I mean, I use a 0.8mm and 0.4-0.6mm layers when I can get away with it. For parts the size I'd normally use that nozzle on, the mere idea of waiting for a 0.2mm to do the same makes me feel like watching a carpet grow would be a more productive use of time.

After extensive tuning, tweaking, modification, shortcircuiting and repair this is probably the highest quality technically achievable on the Ender 2 chink printer.

Gonna try the french tower tomorrow.

BTW using the power brick to power the thing is fucking great, no noise, no exposed wires and no need to turn off the PSU separately.

>>1357446

>>1357446
This is printed with a 0.2mm nozzle and 0.08mm layer height.

And the model itself is all modelled smooth and melty so the complete lack of sharp corners and edges is de to source material

>>1357446
Nice.

>>1357446
Link the model how much you scaled it and i'll try it with my tronxy x1

>>1357463
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278822

I printed it at 50% scale because 0.2mm printing is SLUGGISH.

If the belt path is attached to a carriage in a way that is not totally parallel to the axis of motion, will cosine error happen? If the carriage is at an extreme of the travel and it starts going 10mm back and forth, what will happen?

>>1357822
it will actually move a little less than 10mm.
Also you will have belt tension problems.

>>1357822
I think yes it will and no this kind of precision doesn't actually matter on a desktop 3d printer that suffers from a billion other issues orders of magnitude more severe than mechanical error

been watching a lot of videos before I receive my first printer
Why do I see some cheapo printers that are like 4 centimeters more on each axis than a well-reviewed more expensive 3D printer?

>>1357871
Because there are only so many well thought out and designed printers and a coule thousand nameless chinese companies who are trying to thoughtlessly steal the design and cut the expenses without any engeneering expertise while offering slightly larger print volume as heir killer feature hoping somebody will buy them just for the volume/price ratio

>>1357871
The print area's size is not really all that relevant of a factor when considering the quality of a printer.

Why does nobody ever use gear/belt reduction on the stepper motors except for the extruders?

It looks like the mictrostepping makes crappy little shiny patterns on the very smooth surfaces and according to what I found online microstepping also diminishes torgue.

So why did nobody introduce a printer than has tiny pancake motors with 1 to 8 belt reduction on X and Y axis (to eliminate gear backlash) running and high speed to both increace the printing precision and cut the costs on the motors?

>>1357869
The question is
Will it always go predictably to the same position, or will it slowly drift right?

>>1357822
>>1357826
This, but why would you design the carriage to handle the belt in the way you did?

>>1357869
Even a mm of "mechanical error" is a pretty severe issue, anon.

>>1357894
>Why does nobody ever use gear/belt reduction on the stepper motors except for the extruders?

You'll see that if you take a look at large CNC routers

BTW, some people actually use belt reductions on XY stages for custom 3d printers (there's a guy that uses them in EVERY SINGLE ONE OF THEM), and its easier to implement it in printers that already have belts connecting motors to rods. If you build an aluminum extrusion Ultimaker you can use a 16mm pulley on each motor, move them down a little and end up with a 1:1.125 reduction. I was going to do this, I ordered the 16t and 36t pulleys for 5mm and 8mm shafts but thought it wasn't worth the trouble

>>1357897
>Even a mm of "mechanical error" is a pretty severe issue, anon.

we're talking 0.1-0.2 mm bro.
And no 3d printers wont get you tight tolerances

>>1357897
>This, but why would you design the carriage to handle the belt in the way you did?

People don't do this intentionally. In every other reprap-inspired machine you'll see the belt forming an angle when it's attached to the carriage (pic related). When I'm desining, I try to make the belt as parallel as possible to the axis of motion.

If you do the math you'll notice the actual pull is within 99.5% of what it should be, that's probably why people don't mind it.

>>1357902
For some reason I thought that was a top view, not side, and that it was moving against a roller. I don't think you'll run into very noticeable issues if you just leave it free-hanging.

>>1357895
>Will it always go predictably to the same position, or will it slowly drift right?

My printer has no issues with that.
All layers are squarely one on top of the other.

>>1357873
Yeah I figured that when watching all the reviews that have side by side comparisons of prints from different printers with same settings
just thought cheaper would always mean smaller
>>1357872
didn't think of that, luckily I don't actually have the money for one yet and am doing a lot of research,
I'm the sort of person who could be hoodwinked and just pick the largest cheapest one

>>1357894
I guess it would cut down in the speed having the motor geared down or something. Besides you can just get high quality stepper drives for 10e a piece that pretty much eliminate the rippling produced by not so good microstepping.

How do I make a noiseproof box for my printer?

I sleep in the same room as the device and plan to do some 40-60 hour prints.

>>1357988
I'm working on this myself, got enough noise-reducing foam to cover the inside of a soon-to-be-lasercut box and will post results if you're interested.

I finished molding the exotic fruit. I ended up printing the bulk of the mold in vase mode, and an end cap.

Before silicone caulk stuck to the PLA then tried PETG same happened. Then i accidentally figured out if i whip up the silicone so it has a tiny air bubbles it wont stuck to the mold. No idea why. So i did just that and it released like a dream. Best if you mix in a drop of water into a spoonful of silicone too to speed up curing, before it cured over 24 hours, this way it takes like 30-40 minutes.

The print pattern transferred really nice, so i had to smooth it down with an extra layer, but this method is totally viable and this silicone is super cheap.

>>1357993
>>1357988
what sorts of temperature buildup can you expect in a 3D print enclosure without any ventilation?
wondering if that would be a possible concern for soundproofing foam

>>1358005
Seems like the added air bubbles would trap moisture and bacteria more easily. Wouldn't it be better off with some kind of releasing agent?

Low poly poison headcrab model with some articulation added in. The teeth side of it looks like ass, but it is supposed to be hairy, so maybe it works?

What the actual h*ck is going on here, I've swapped and lubed and tightened all the mechanical parts that I can, the only thing left is for it to be a problem with my flat cables or my main control board. The x-axis gantry vibrates a lot, almost like the x-axis stepper isn't getting enough power.

Are there businesses that service 3D printers? I'm at that point in the troubleshooting.

>>1358026
One more thing that might be relevant - prints take way longer than my slicer estimates, like two times as long. I have a supposed 10-hour print going on its 19th hour now.

>>1358012
Interestingly there were no open bubbles. But to be on the safe side i coated it with a solid layer of silicone to seal any open bubbles. My friend told me that he wouldnt use it a lot, he will wait for the 2 component silicone fruit with the jellyfish.

Will see if release agent helps.

>>1358011

Depends entirely on what the box is made of. Styrofoam? Probably going to get some significant heat buildup. Cement board? Not so much.

>>1357993
Foam is for reducing reverb, for reducing noise what you want is rubber sheet

>>1358026
Might be a bad motor. Try swapping them around and see what happens.

I didn't expect a print so good holy balls.

Ender 2 with the 0.2m nozzle and 0.1mm layer height. Took 8 hours to print.
The nodel is The Moon City 2 at my mini factory scaled to 80% because the 10% would print for 14 hours.

>>1358052
Shits nice, too bad the white hides depth.

>>1358044
Already did, it's IDEX so I swapped the primary and secondary x-axis strippers. Unless they're both bad which seems unlikely - unless it's from overheating by being in an enclosed chamber printing ABS

>>1358058
Yeah I wish I had neutral grey or something.

>>1358066
Grays or any saturated color pops details very nicely. Also reveals small mistakes.

Whats the model?

>>1358066
I have only ever printed with gray and I can't imagine using any other color. It's just...right.

>>1358068
>Whats the model?
The small one from this pack.

Scaled it to 80% to speed the process up

>>1358073
Duh, didnt see you already told us what the model is. Thanks

>>1358072
>not printing everything in pink, black or both.

>>1358005
>exotic fruit
just say that it's a dildo

but anyways is this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Anycubic-3D-printer-impresora-3d-I3-Mega-full-metal-imprimante-3d-High-Precision-Patented-Lattice-Platform/32829239371.html any good for a first printer?

>>1358257
>any good for a first printer?

Looks like a decent ripoff of Prusa.
I would expect it to do OK OOB and even better after you mod the fuck out of it.

>>1357894

With Steppers it's more complicated than necessary, Microstepping reduces noise and vibration anyway.

Stepper Motors cost fuck all.

Gearing something down and running it faster still results in a high steps per mm at the motor. You have to be sure you don't miss steps.

Although you do see roughly what you're describing used along with Servos in some Robotic Arms. They mount the encoder on the Motor and use a vast array of pulleys and timing belts to gear it down.

>>1357470
Alright, it turned out fairly well with 3 perimeters and no infill. Too bad this is the only PLA i've got at the moment and it's kinda bad for details, i ought to get some of that gray stuff at some point.

>>1358257

I think it's because the DIY board is supposed to be worksafe so you can't just openly say you take caulk up the ass.

Sup guise

3d printing n00b here

I'm under the impression that the base plate of the Ultimaker 2 isn't planar. No matter how carefully I run the calibration, there's always a zone on the plate that seems lower than the rest : instead of being 'squished' onto the plate giving a nice planar finish to my parts, it looks like filament is kind of dropped there, giving a rough finish.

What do you guys suggest?

>>1358351
that just means you can't post porn

CR-10 with TL Smoother: no effect. Just so you guys know.

>>1358382
>TL Smoother
Those only work on DRV8825, they have no effect on A4988 or Trinamic TMC2130, if i remember correctly. Of course non of the sellers will tell you this.

Is Simplify3D worth $150? It has support for my printer, and the slicer that came with it (mattercontrol) has really shitty support structure generation and I always get errors when I use it. Looking for an alternative. Cura doesn't support my printer.

>>1358394
Oh well.

>>1358397
Knowing what printer you have would be nice if you wanted advice on a free or cheaper solution, but whatever.
If you just like throwing money at problems, go for it. Most slicers have options for adding custom printer settings.

>>1358397
Cura should, might have to make your own profile for it or pick a machine very similar and do some tweaks to it.

I personally really like S3D but it's getting harder to suggest as the free options are getting better, I'd suggest torrenting it use it for awhile and then decide if its worth it for you.

>>1358397
Every slicer out there does the same what S3D does, but for free.

The only reason you should get S3D is custom support generation. But if you are smart enough you can do custom supports with free tools.

>>1358406
I just wanna know if Simplify3D is worth it. My printer is a Rostock Max v3 delta-style printer. I also don't want to make a custom profile, I want the slicer to support my printer out of the box. I never hear anything bad about Simplify3D except the price.

>>1358410
>Free program does "x"
>$100+ program also does "x"
>what complaints do I have between the two?

It's your money, bro. If modifying a few settings is too much work, go ahead and spend.

I think my A8 bed is fucking bowed down in the center, what do? I use a capacitive autolevel but that doesn't appear to fix shit.

I say this because all of my large prints are bowed the exact same way. Smaller shit that is printed in the center does fine.

>>1358428
This is why many people end up putting a glass sheet on their bed. It's easy and cheap. Only problem will be that autolevel might not read if it is a weaker one or the glass is too thick for it

>>1358428
How big is it?

>>1358409
>But if you are smart enough you can do custom supports with free tools.
Or add them in CAD.

I've added a brim to specific problem areas on a few of the model I print regularly that have bed adhesion issues in only one or two locations. It's just an extrusion on the model thin enough that the slicer only prints a single layer there.

>>1358397
Bought it. Ended up using Slic3r because of the shitty DRM that demands internet connection on a random basis. People who pirate S3D actually get a better product than those who pay.
TLDR no.

>>1358441
>add them in CAD
Exactly.

Also. If you want to print machine parts or functional things, you can design most of them to be printed without supports.

Ok, so ignoring >>1358416, it sounds like Simplify3D is not worth the price. I would much rather prefer not spending many hours setting up a custom profile, but if Cura is worth it, then is at least a guide somewhere? Last time I tried Cura, it didn't even support delta printers, but now I hear that it does? Thanks for the info regardless. I'll look into Cura.

>>1358409
>>1358441
>>1358444
Yeah I have no problem making my own support material, and I always do when I make my own parts, but it's not so straight forward when I'm trying to print a pre-made .stl file.

>>1358455
you know deltas and cartesians take the same g-code right? The conversion is done in the firmware not during slicing.

>>1358455
>Ok, so ignoring>>1358416 (You)#, it sounds like Simplify3D is not worth the price.

If you didn't ignore me, you'd have come to that conclusion sooner.

>>1358455
The current version of cura has a preset for the kossel pro just adjust the bed size and whatever else, and print a few of the 20x20 calibration cubes to sort everything out.

>>1358439
How big is the bed, or the print?

>thinking about getting the Cetus 3d mini
>It's going up in price in April when I have some money
Well fuck me then.

>>1358397
>Is Simplify3D worth $150
Fuck no
Either pirate it for the custom supports or use a free program

I usually work with tools like a drill press, router, band saw, lathe, etc. But I'm going to college in a few months and I'm thinking about getting a printer to test out designs and continue making stuff while I'm living in the dorms.
Any good printers for small space, relatively quiet, and within the $100-$250 price range?

>>1358767
Any printers are "relatively quiet" and fit in small spaces, frankly. If your dorm is anything like mine, there's probably a spot under your bed where you can put a small sheet of plywood and stick the printer on there to give it a stable surface.

>>1358767
noise depends on bushings (polymer or PLA are silent af) and stepper drivers.

DRV8825 screams like a banshee at period. Common A4899 are moderate. But your best choice is to replace with TMC2100 aka silent stepstick.

Or build a enclosure for 3d printer and enjoy noise free night prints.

Anything that is not a Anet A8 will do desu.

>>1358867
Holy shit the trinamic drivers are silent. A friend upgraded his prusa, new einsy board, the thing is just slightly louder than a PC fan when printing.
Im thinking of getting one for my CR-10.

TMC2100 are pricey but totally worth shekels.

There is also alternative at lower price point LV8729. Have not used them myself yet so i personally can't tell much until shipment arrive.

Supposed those run hot as DRV8825 but are slightly noisier then TMC2100.

at AliExpress ya can get those 4pcs for ~19USD

>>1358881
I got a pair of 2100 for a xy-table. They are actually louder than the a4988's I used before. And yes I supply them with 24V.

>>1358289
got the price down to 239 with coupons

>>1358885
Have you tried to regulate Vref? Tunning current should impact noise and heat generation. Also performance as well.

what % value of the original price will I be able to sell a kit prusa mk3 for in 6 months after I've had my use with it?

>>1359206
50%

I made a breakthrough on trying to fix my BCN3D Sigma that has been printing like shit lately. >>1358026

The ribbon cable for the primary stepper is damaged AND it corresponds to the 24V input so fucking eureka.

I thought Sanladerer was a scrawny little dude but he's actually looking quite fit

>>1359240
Interesting issue.

>>1359240
>>1359261
This is another print with the god-awful rippling.

After swapping the primary and secondary X-axis stepper ribbon cables, an initial air print seems to confirm that this was in fact the issue - I was getting massive vibrations and noise from the affected stepper motor but now I'm only getting the ordinary amount of vibration.

Hopefully putting the printer back together and doing an actual print will 100% confirm the issue. I'm excited, I might be able to actually use my printer again.

>>1359184
of course. I put it as low as I could without loosing stepps.

>>1359243

Way to go e3d, you consistently manage to make me feel like my own printer is shit by comparison.

Cheap 3D pen as part repair (filling holes/gaps) and binding? Dumb idea?

>>1359578

Yes

>>1359585
y tho? With ABS you can use an ABS slurry, but how to fix PLA holes/gaps? Same with gluing parts together. A 3d pen is like $20 too.

>>1359587

It works but you get an ugly seam because you're squirting a lot of hot plastic around it which you then need to laboriously trim off with a knife. With ABS slurry you're doing a proper solvent weld so it works better. I guess it's not such a dumb idea with it being so cheap, but don't expect miracles.

Anyone here use Anycubic Kossel Plus High-performance kit https://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_1412339.html was thinking about getting this one. Its this or the i3 Mega.

>>1358867
Serious question, what's wrong with the Anet A8?

>>1359587
Yeah i've thought about it too, how about using a soldering iron and just some filament and melting it on there?

>>1358397
its worth it if you have a lot of machines

>>1359640
This would only work if you had a temp-controlled iron, and a spare tip to get covered in burnt plastic

>>1359578
>>1359585
>>1359587
>>1359596
>>1359640
>>1359658
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-Printing-Doodler-Pen-2nd-Generation-Digital-Heat-Control-PLA-ABS-Purple/332599136667?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
> $13.99
Just do it.

>>1359661
>not having a bourgeois temp-controlled iron
Also, it would be pretty easy to just wipe off the molten plastic with a paper towel.

https://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_641324.html?wid=21

Gonna get this but do I need all the extruders,hot end full kit, short and long distance Printer Extrusion Head Kit/printer extrusion hot ends 0,2 0,3 0,4 and 0,5mm, and tapes etc that the shop suggests to get? 80€ discount sounds good enough but is it really needed or am I being jewed?

>>1359607
Nothing, as long as you don't mind spending out @ $100 or so upgrading it. Stock, the main problem is the frame (acrylic sheet cracks waaaay too easily) and the connections for the heated bed (improperly rated connections on the board, improper mechanical connections for the bed itself). All fixable, but a little extra can get you a better platform out of the gate.
>t. Anet A8 user

>>1359587
>Also, it would be pretty easy to just wipe off the molten plastic with a paper towel.
>put piece of filament in rotary tool
>yfw when friction melts it and fills the hole

It works for ABS and PLA, haven't tried it with PETG yet but it probably does

Anyone have a bad experience purchasing used 3d printers?
Been looking to add a Lulzbot mini to my stable and the $600-700 most people tend to sell a used one for is kinda tempting.

Is the creality CR - 10 any good for ABS? Or can I mod it to heat up more? Only thing in the way of buying one. Would go with a Tornado but id rather not have the weird texture.

>>1359861
People print ABS on it, but I think it's a dumb idea because you need to enclose it. I'd rather go for something that is box shaped and has every mechanism within the structure envelope.

>>1359578
Go to Wal-Mart and buy some Bondo products
Faster, stronger, easier, and cheaper

>>1359869
what would be a decent one for abs then?

>>1359961
Honestly, most half-decent printers can be used for abs. I started with an Rosholt max V2. A few tweaks and it's fine. For smaller prints you don't even need an enclosure. As long as the environment around the printer is stable and the air is still most prints don't have any problems.

>>1359984
*rostock

>>1359984
So maybe a tarantula wouldn't be too bad?

>>1359989
If you want your parts to be really crumbly and delaminate, go for any open 3d printer with the basic reprap layout

If not, get a CL260 and attach MDF panels to the sides/top. Or that flashforge creator.

This anon
>>1358397
>>1358410
>>1358455

Took a half a day and tons of googling (why the fuck did they have to make up new words for everything), but made a profile in Cura, and first print is pic related. I can't say I wasn't about to throw $150 away for something that just werks, but now I'm glad I didn't. First print pic related.

>>1359869
would enclosing something like a Prusa I3 Mk2 cause any problems with the printer?
My imagination says that it would be better to have everything that you can outside the box for cooling but I don't actually know what temperatures a 3D printer could sustain and whether it would affect functionality

>>1358397
>Is Simplify3D worth $150?

Nope, on the simple fact their DRM is complete dog shit.
Pirate it like everyone else did (including their paid customers who were locked out with their shit DRM)

Its the only thing I use, but I refuse to pay for it

>>1360703
It depends on what temperature it would reach. I believe motors are rated above 100°C. Not sure for PSU (good ones are up to 70°C) and electronics/stepper drivers. For ABS temperature between 30 and 40°C should be enough, I personally wouldn't go higher than 50°C.
Put a thermometer in enclosure and start a long print and observe where the chamber temperature stabilises.

Ordered Newest Anycubic 3D Printer I3 Mega full metal frame with Ultrabase Platfrom from Aliexpress, 2KG of PLA and 1 KG of ABS, am I in for some fun? I do already have a bunch things in mind I want to make with it, both household and some hobby related stuff. Also what free software should I get start learning on?

>>1360773
Fusion360 for design. Super crunchy, free for hobbyists, and lets you branch out into CNC/laser cutting if you're so inclined.

>>1360781
Thanks, I'll look into that. Been interested in CNC also but thought I would do more with a 3D printer to start out with. I'm incredibly depressed and I hoping making something will help with that and hopefully develop some new skills at the same time

>>1360781
it's not free tho.

>>1360828
https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/learn-explore/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/How-to-activate-start-up-or-educational-licensing-for-Fusion-360.html

The free Start-Up/ Enthusiast licenses allow you to access Fusion 360 with a yearly subscription after the trial period has ended. You can use this license if you are a small business making less than $100,000 per year (or equivalent), or if you're a hobbyist using Fusion 360 for non-commercial purposes

I've renewed my free hobbyist license 3 times

such meme

https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=107&cp_id=10724&cs_id=1072403&p_id=33520

>>1360923
hehe

Can you pirate STL files that come from pay sites anywhere?

>>1360773
I'm using Sketchup with an stl export plugin.
The old version 8 is still free even for commercial use.
It may not be the most versatile but it works for the type of parts I need

>>1361136
No, that is not possible.

>>1361136
No one really put them up, at least where I have looked.

>>1360854
Thanks.

How do I copy and paste in this program? and rotate while we're at it? Trying to make a sockstar as a first project but I cant get it exactly the same way if I just draw the other hole so I would want to know how to copy the right side, rotate/mirror it and paste it on the left side. Some videos just say CTRL-C CTRL-V but nothing works. Tried even highlighting the whole thing but it wont work.

>>1361244
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6Yqc8p5utc

>>1361251
Well fuck, I just kept searching for copy. Thanks.

>>1361251
>>1361263

Well it wont work.

>>1361269
And by some miracle it decided to start working the 4th time I did everything the same way. Is this program always this unpredictable?

>>1361273
No, you're just doing something wrong.

I guess here's the best place to ask this.
Whats a pololu compatible stepper driver board that will do 1/16 microstepping and has a bit more power than the A4988?
Currently I'm using an A4988 for a spindle driven linear stage but it's at a fine ballance between overheating and missting stepps and I fear it won't get me trough summer. Yes I'm using adequate cooling.

When buying my first printer, should I buy more nozzles or how fast do they wear out? For example how many kg on average can I expect to print with my first nozzle?

>>1361483
Clogs don't happen at regular intervals. I've had them appear on week-old printers. You need to have spares available to try should you experience extrusion issues.

>>1361483
or invest in steel hardened nozzle in few different sizes. Also 0.5mm nozzle is clog proof as long you run single type of filament.

Swapping ABS and PLA in same nozzle is generally bad idea.

>>1361397
DRV8825
>six microstep resolutions (down to 1/32-step). It operates from 8.2 V to 45 V and can deliver up to approximately 1.5 A per phase without a heat sink or forced air flow (rated for up to 2.2 A per coil with sufficient additional cooling). The driver has a pinout and interface that are nearly identical to those of our A4988 stepper motor driver carriers, so it can be used as a higher-performance drop-in replacement for those boards in many applications.

https://www.pololu.com/product/2133

>>1361487
>>1361535
Thanks, are the nozzles universal or do I need to know models etc? The aliexpresa only says that the printer comes with a 0.4mm one. If they are universal, are there any differences between brands or should I just try and find the cheapest set?

>>1361569
>are the nozzles universal or do I need to know models etc?
There are different thread diameters and thread lengths for a given family/lineage of printer.

All reprap derivative printers for instance are M6, which the only variation being the top opening size (for 1.75mm or 3mm diameters of filament) and nozzle opening.

How do you guys feel about me buying the Prusa i3 mk2s instead of the mk3? Some guy on reddit says you have to tinker with the mk3 cuz it's new and that the mk2s is the better printer currently

>>1361648
MK3 is mostly quality of life stuff and some interesting things electronics side. They have had quite a few bugs / issues at launch and most of them have been solved.

For the price that the mk2s is with the support given is pretty good.

>>1361624
What about printheads, extruders etc? Any basic set I should get? I got 60€ to spare

>>1359240
>>1359302
Anyway, the ribbon cable puncture wasn't the entire issue since the rippling got better but didn't go away completely.

I've hit a brick wall with fixing this thing and the company's tech support isn't helping a whole lot. I could just buy a new, cheaper printer but I expected this $2,500(!!) printer to last longer than it did. The company is in Barcelona so shipping it to them to repair it, if they even offer that, is probably ludicrously expensive.

>>1361783
All you can do is try everything.
1 Update the firmware
2 turned the print speed too far up
3 Maybe the feeder roll is dirty?

>>1361767
If it's your basic reprap based extruder just buy a few nozzle packets in multiple different sizes, costs next to nothing and gives you a lot of flexibility. I suggest getting 0.2mm and 0.3mm ones on top of 0.4mm spares.

>>1361783
There's a lot of weight on that x/y axis, what print speeds are you doing? Having any oscillations?

>>1361558
Thanks. Here's a owl I printed on my SLA/DLP rig. Not perfect, but a nice first print.

May I datamine for the rated voltages of the steppers used in /3dpg/s printers?

>printing parts for mendel i2 in school printer
>see the x motor holder
>very large bridge

How am I supposed to print this? Cura doesn't let me put supports just under the bridge, and Meshmixer makes this structure which I'm pretty sure will break as it's being printed.

>>1362086
it's a bridge. What do you want support for?

>>1362089
So I just print it as is?
Also, are there belt clamps for gt2 belts? The ones in the reprap wiki don't match my belt teeth

>>1362096
>So I just print it as is?
If the bridging settings are ok it should print fine.
>Also, are there belt clamps for gt2 belts?
probably

>>1361904
Anycubic i3 Mega. Also, how do I know what model nozzle I should get?

>>1361666
>trusting the devil

I mean, he's not wrong, but there's probably a catch.
I recwntly bought a mk2s instead of mk3, it should be arriving within the hour. Mk3 seemed to have nice features, and I'm sure the bugs will get fixed through firmware updates, but the current price of the mk2s is a pretty sweet deal.

>>1362106
Google around, find the nozzle page on reprap wiki and try to find your nozzle.

Would it be cheaper to build a 3D printer than pay for one?

I have a fairly good understanding of how to configure and troubleshoot self-built open source models after weeks of research and the most affordable printers worth getting would have smaller build areas in any case.
Seems like it might be cheapest to build my own and get my eye in before purchasing a decent one but I've no real idea of the build cost of a small printer.

>>1362270
Yes if you get it right in the first try

>>1362270
Cheap if you:
Already have most of the materials that worth a lot like aluminium extrusions, rods, steppers. Have access to a printer so you can print parts for your printer.
Build a working printer on the first try and not fuck up multiple times.

Otherwise kits are cheaper:
Stores buy materials in bulk for less price.
You dont have to source materials from different places. Less shipping and time wasted for searching for parts.
Added bonuses are:
Most of the kits work right away and have good quality.
Have some sort of assembly/operating instructions.
Someone will probably have the same printer out there who encountered and fixed a problem so you wont have to figure out by yourself.

What are those "tongues" in the holes for the x-axis ends? I can't get the rod in because of them

>>1361908
I usually print at 60 mm/s but have slowed to 45 mm/s. I am going to try slowing to 35 mm/s and slow the outer perimeters down to like 50%.

There's a lot of weight on the gantry, but on the other hand the machine uses genuine Hiwin linear rails so I dunno.

>>1362318

Fuck, I run my MDF chinkshit pruse clone at 100mm/s

Maybe I should slow down though, my prints are covered in ring lines

>>1362270
Buying, as long as you get the matching hardware even a monkey would be able to build a printer, search on youtube and you'll find a few build guides where you can learn the basics and then you can decide whether to use an already existing build or designing your own.

>>1362318
Alright at this point i guess it has to be a problem on your mainboard, if it has removable stepper drivers i suggest you switch out those at first and if that doesn't work out switch out your whole board. You can get the whole board drivers and all for like 20e if you go the route of chinkshit and for like a bit over 100e if you get a proper board.

>>1362516
>buying
*building

>>1354080
By cube 3 do you mean the large acrylic one or the one with the cartridges with integrated nozzles?

Is it at all possible to make a 3d printer pay itself back? My idea would be to print up war gaming props (barrels, crates, Necron crystals and shit) or even doll house crap and sell on ebay or whatever.

My question is about how finicky a 3d printer can be? Can I just set it up and tell it to print and walk away for 12 hours? Or will I constantly be coming back to a mess?

>>1362615
If you've got everything properly set up 97% of the time the print will succeed after the first layer has been laid. Therefore i suggest you observe that the first layer gets laid properly and then you can pretty much walk away.

>>1362615
>Is it at all possible to make a 3d printer pay itself back?
If you get a Wanhao D7 and make models for dentists, yes, in no time

>>1362615
Echoing what >>1362644 said; in addition, I would babysit some jobs and make sure everything was running reliably and consistently before you start walking away from your printer. Too many stories about the guy who finishes his printer, walks away from it, then has the heater cartridge fall out or the power supply spontaneously combust floating around.

>>1362520
I upgraded my firmware and my rippling problem disappeared, fuckin' finally.

I held off on doing that because the procedure for doing it on my machine is convoluted and the last time I tried my printer didn't start up again.

How much should I be looking at spending for a CR-10, is £277 too much?

>>1362877
I think you can get the CR-10S for about 10-15% more, when you got the right coupon code. Look up CR-10 facebook groups, biggest one had those, if i remember correctly.

>>1362905
I'll look out for it, thanks

>>1362644
OK, so the first 10-15 minutes

>>1362810
I saw a video of Prusa's production. A room full of printers just going at it. Without much supervision from what I can see. Impressed the pants off me.

FWIW I was thinking of a Prusa i3, not some Chinese knock off. I suspect it would be less likely to spontaneously combust.

>>1363070
You are paying for the brand, there are a lot of good quality chink printers out there for half the price.

>>1363072
More than brand; you're getting tech support and a certain amount of quality insurance. If I was going to start a print farm and didn't want to fuck around with downtime, i3s would be a good way to go.

>>1363072
The problem seems to be it's really hit or miss. And I don't want to be fighting my tools or my vendor to get something done.

>>1363070
>Prusa i3
Good choice, when you are serious about it and it doesnt end up in one corner unused. Dont listen to idiots like >>1363072, you wont see the average chink printers in any work enviorment unless they have been heavily modified or upgraded. There always seems to be this and that problem with them, which takes a whole ass of time to figure out, already have 3 different type chink printers (i3 clone, makerbot clone, ultimaker clone) from 3 different companies and all of them have one or more anoying problems that took forever to figure out. To be honest i just should have bought a Prusa in hindsight, when i look at how good the MK3 is running from a friend, who had little to non experience with 3d printers, build the kit and is printing stuff within months i wasnt able to print in over a year of tinkering with my first machine. Shit just works and doesnt constanly have problems you never heard of or know nothing about. And they arent even so expensive, when you actually take into account how much filament you waste or parts you need to replace and often it aint even helping with the problem.

>>1363093
>>1363109
>>1363203
Josef pls go

>>1363265
Shut up Gearbest, you already sold enough defunctional garbage.

>>1363203
Over a year!!!

Chinkshit can be more of a headache to get working, but even I had prints out of mine in the first week from opening the box.

>>1363293
Are you retarded? That is obvious not what he ment, he is talking about quality of prints.

>>1363302
Are you retarded? He literally said
>i wasnt able to print in over a year of tinkering with my first machine

Words have meanings.

>>1363307
Yeah, when you leave out the vital parts, things change their meaning.
>is printing stuff within months i wasnt able to print in over a year of tinkering
God, you are one desperate faggot, when you you have to rely on such obvious stupid tactics.

>>1354573
I've tried a few different coating methods and so far just using the felt wiper pads plain is working perfectly fine. Vinyl Dye didn't work as well as hoped and will deposit on the nozzle every third or fourth print.

Once the felt pad starts to leave fuzz on the nozzle it's about time to replace it anyways. So the good news there is there really isn't a process step that is required for making your own beyond simply cutting the felt to size.

This is going to save me a considerable amount of money this year as I made a drawer full of them for under $10.

can printed abs take garden hose pressure?

>>1363531
I don't think the material itself would have any problem with the pressure (I don't think PLA would for that matter); your hurdles are going to be layer adhesion and watertightness.

>>1363531
You will need some coating to seal layers.

I printed vacuum tubing from PLA, dipped in epoxy, works like a charm.

>>1362270
There is always a repstrap which are build from basic hardware with basic tools.

An example:
http://reprap.org/wiki/1X2

Of course once you have 3d printer, cost of making new one goes down dirt cheap.

If you have access to cheap laser/water jet cutting then you can try full metal P3steel derivative called PROBOT

As for electronics. Get used NEMA17 from old printers. Ya often can get 4 for price of 1 new. Arduino+RAMPS+LCD SD card reader often comes with A4988 stepper drivers which are run of the mill. No need for fancy controllers and shit.

ATX PSU can be moded/hacked for 3d printing use and are actually better then LED strips or industrial 12V PSU .

What is the best way to bond PLA pieces together? I have mostly been using super glue, but I am wondering if hot glue or something would give me a better bond.

>>1363846
>hot glue or something would give me a better bond
Your dried sperm would give a better bond then hot glue. Seriously.

>>1363846
Epoxy adhesives

>>1363846
have you tried bonding by applying a melting solution to them?
that's what my dad does with model kits, basically dissolves the outer layers of each piece with some kind of solvent and then they "weld" together

>>1363875
Would model kit plastic cement actually work on PLA? I actually have some laying around, so I will give that a shot.

>>1363265
davinci defense force pls go

>>1363877
Nope. That stuff's basically acetone, and acetone does jack all to PLA.

>>1363945
That's what I thought. I will take >>1363859 's advice then as I have been looking for an excuse to get a new tube of that stuff.

Hey so I'm kind of new to this stuff in general and I'm trying to build a laser. I've got a Raspberry Pi and a RAMPS 1.4 board which I'm trying to use PyCNC with. Do I need to flash anything to the RAMPS board itself, or is it just plug-and-play? I always thought the RAMPS was just a rewiring of sorts and that the Arduino was the brains of the whole thing - my old printers have a RAMBo and some other board which I don't remember, but they both used only one board and neither of them was arduino-based (both self-contained).

>>1360781
>lets you branch out into CNC/laser cutting if you're so inclined
I'm so inclined. Is it a special feature set or do you just mean "the files generated work for CNC/laser cutting", because the latter is pretty vague.

>>1362615
You'd have to model your own, unique content and make people want it. There's so many free wargaming files floating around that any schmuck can order them off Shapeways for a fiver for way higher quality than what you'll likely be able to produce. Factor in time to set up, print, cool down, electricity costs, and cost offset by printing fuckups (customers care about cosmetic defects).

Good luck, though.

>>1363846
I don't know if it's the best, but you could try methylene chloride instead of acetone to weld pla pieces together. I've heard it works quite well. If that doesn't work just stick to epoxy

>>1363995
Just plug it in. You need to upload firmware to the Arduino itself.

>>1362270
He can do it from scrap.

>>1363995
RAMBo definetly is arduino based.
Basicly a RAMBo is like a RAMPS1.4 + ArduinoMega + A4988carriers all condensed into one board plus a few quality of live things like changing motor currents from software.

And no, you can't flash anything to the RAMPS.
You are right, the arduino is the brains the RAMPS does the work.

>>1364170
Ramps does just the physical interfacing

>>1364007
The ability to generate the toolpaths for a CNC or laser cutter from a model is baked into the software.

>>1364192
How well does it do it, though? Some software with "built in CAM" will generate thousands of line segments for circles rather than using the arc commands

>>1364195
Honestly, I have no idea (I just know you can). I've never heard anyone complain about it, though.

>>1364182
there are MOSFETs on it arent there?

>>1364015
>>1364170
Thanks lads, wish me luck. I'm using the hardware from my old Printrbot LC as a test frame before getting a "good" one. Every time I touch it it seems like the bolts have loosened, but it should be good enough for now.

Just bought a prusa mk2s. Is it worth doing 3dhubs printing for side money?

>>1364365
If your local hub area is 100% dead, sure
But 3d hubs is basically routing all jobs to like 30 hubs, because it means more profit for them. There was some serious blow back from it a few months ago when they announced that changes but they pretty much said zuk mah dick to the community.

>>1364441
not that anon but why do they do that?
is it some kind of economy of scale with fewer high volume hubs?

>>1363951
>>1363945
Sanladerer claims good results for welding PLA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZUfq0yrtv4
Haven't tried it myself yet though

Anyone still got the link to tubgirl?

>>1364452
Pretty much and the hubs agreed to use the companies pricing scale rather then their own to I guess simplify the order process even if it way under estimated price or way over estimates price.

>>1364441
What is the alternative to 3d hubs now?

>>1364215
Good call. There shouldn't be. They should have their own separate board.

>>1364504
for the true maker to maker type thing, someone on le reddit is getting ready to launch something. They just finished getting payment vendors setup and a few other things, last I heard was juneish of this year.

>>1364441
Source? That sounds like a shitty thing to do

>>1364032
If I had loads of free scrap lying around I would too

>>1364532
https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/express-checkout-faq
https://headwayapp.co/3d-hubs-changelog
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/747slw/3dhubs_is_dead/
https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/3d-hubs-dead
https://3dprint.com/202313/3d-hubs-branches-out/

Been looking through the reprap wiki and thingiverse and it seems entirely doable to print the body of an extruder
Is it possible to do an initial print without an extruder body or bootstrap a shoddy extruder so that I can print a proper one on a repstrap?

>>1364807
Probaly would try to make one out of wood.

>get an anet a8 they said

Printed a calibration cube
Y was baby butt smooth
X was perfectly acceptable but not quite as good as Y

Can I use like rubber washers at all the screw connections on the gantry to reduce vibrations or does that sound like a dumb idea?

>>1364942
sometimes mesothelioma pays
one of those times is living in an asbestos lined fireproof basement