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/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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File: 2.35 MB, 4032x2268, shim.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1350413 No.1350413 [Reply] [Original]

I want to solder the copper shims you see in pic related to the aluminium contact plate.
There are two problems here. The first, heat is transported really fast to the heat pipe, so how do I get the solder(paste) and the metals hot enough without the heat pipe exploding or bulging on me? I have a 550°C heat gun. I know that I have to grind the aluminium first to remove the oxidised coating.
The next possible problem is corrosion. As far as I found out aluminium, tin and copper are pretty passive and the corrosion should be really slow as long as it isn't exposed to current or excess moisture.

Is this sound? Anyone know how to best proceed here?

>> No.1350420

you can't solder to aluminium
you're just going to end up with a glob of burnt shit

>> No.1350426

>>1350420
Fuck off retard.

https://encrypted.google.com/search?q=solder+copper+to+aluminium

>> No.1350427

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=How+to+solder+copper+to+aluminium

>> No.1350430

>>1350426
>brazing and welding
not the same thing

anyway why would you do this, it will cause galvanic corrosion

>> No.1350431
File: 613 KB, 498x498, 971.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1350431

>>1350426
>>1350427
>how do I get the solder(paste) and the metals hot enough without the heat pipe exploding or bulging on me?
>The next possible problem is corrosion.

>> No.1350434

>>1350430
Literally the first result you stupid cunt.
https://app.aws.org/wj/2004/02/046/

>> No.1350438

>>1350434
Common misconception. It is called brazing when the filler metal has a melting temperature above 840 ºF (450ºC) and below the parent metal.

>> No.1350439

>>1350426
>>1350427
>>1350430
>>1350431
>>1350434
>>1350438

I really appreciate that you answer, but the core question really wasn't the soldering process in itself.
I really don't want the heat pipe explode in my face.
Also I don't want the aluminium corroded away after a month.

These are my core concerns.

>> No.1350440

>>1350438
Ok, so use filler which melts below 450C. Hurr.

>> No.1350441

>>1350439
I don't know about your heat pipe, but if the joint and metals remain relatively dry, the corrosion isn't really a problem.

>> No.1350454

>>1350441
> what is galvanic corrosion

>> No.1350457

>>1350454
Something which isn't a problem in every situation.

>> No.1350479

real question,
if you want permanent fix, why not use thermal glue?
the second question is
Do heat pipes actually explode at that certain temperature or withstand the pressure?

>> No.1350485

>>1350479
The current way it is handled is: die -> paste -> shim -> paste -> contact plate -> solder -> heat pipe, which doesn't cut it thermally even if I leave out the shim, which in turn would be a problem because of the lost distance, also liquid metal corrodes aluminium.
I want to solder the copper shim directly to the contact plate and then use liquid metal between the shim and the die.

I don't really know at which temperatures the heat pipe actually pops, but they bulge pretty soon.
It currently is pressed flat and the heat will make the metal softer and the pressure rise until it will eventually round out, which is unacceptable because of size constraints.

>> No.1350493

>>1350485
i don't think brazing the copper on without damaging the pipes is possible.

well, you could test on a junk cooler at which temp the Pipes rupture, or if its possible to secure the flat ends with some type of Clamp (dunno, 2 pieces of wet wood with a hole and a screw)

>> No.1350496

i just thougt
WTF OP
if fucking thermal pads on voltage regulators are not good enough for your sick overclock, then
WHY THE FUCK ARE YOU USING AN AIR COOLER

>> No.1350501

>>1350413
drill & tap M2 or smaller into the plate, M2 clearance holes in the copper, countersink

>> No.1350534

>>1350413
aluminium, like all anticorosive alloys, rapidly forms an oxide layer upon exposure to air. that's why it doesnt rust. you need to coat it in flux then scratch it through the flux.

>>1350501
this
solder or braze isnt always better than clamping it with a TIM

>> No.1352063

>>1350534
>>1350501

I wasn't able to get the solder onto the aluminium contact plate as the heat pipe and grills were moving heat away too fast from it. With the flux on the plate I scratched until it was a shiny and silvery, I ramped up the temperature of the soldering Iron, but the solder just wouldn't stick to the aluminium, at the end I was at 460°C and it still wouldn't stick. I had to let it cool down in between attempts until finally the heat pipe bulged a little when I held it down for too long, it's still usable though.

What exactly do you mean with drill, tap M2, clamp, tim and countersink? If I interpret the google search correctly I should just hold it together with a nut/clamp? But I need a very good thermal exchange.

I'd really like to just solder a flat copper shim on. Am I SOL?
The replacement parts from the manufacturer are coming, but the new SoC takes 25 instead of 15W and it would be very beneficial if we could use the prototype earlier.

>> No.1352091

>>1352063
I don't think you can solder aluminum to copper at all.

>> No.1352124

>>1352091
You actually can but you need to use motor oil as flux or else the tin/whatever won't stick to the aluminum