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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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1349484 No.1349484 [Reply] [Original]

Who makes better power tools?

>> No.1349489
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1349489

>>1349484
Delta Milwaukee made the best.

>> No.1349490
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1349490

*blocks your path*

>> No.1349495
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1349495

>> No.1349496

They're all the same made in china shit

If you're a casual DIYer, then get shit green. If you're a professional amateur, get orange or blue. If you're an amateur professional, get red or yellow.

>> No.1349498

>>1349496
And if you're a professional professional?

>> No.1349499

>>1349498
You hire someone to do the work.

>> No.1349513

>>1349499
And what would they use?

>> No.1349517

>>1349513
Makita is cheaper, Milwaukee is king of mid tier power tools.

Buy whats in your budget and according to your needs. You cant go wrong picking one over the other.

Fucking idiots make this same thread every other day.

>> No.1349538

>>1349484
whatever you have the batteries for

>> No.1349554

>>1349484
they are all pretty much built in the same place.
someone had a graphic with all the parent companies here once and they are pretty well owned and made by the same people.

chose the colour you like

>> No.1349570

did contractor work for some years and bosch was usually the most reliable and comfortable to use. Especially the 12v version which is good for general use and weighs very little. But hell, I've used cheaper brands that did the same job too. Ryobi is trash though, seen enough of them burn out but luckily they honor the warranties. Seen most of the brands burn out in terms of drills so also look out for who offers the best warranty these days.

>> No.1349666

>>1349484
Both trade tier tools, both good, buy into whichever system you like the color of and stfu with this boring shit.

>> No.1349668
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1349668

>>1349496
>They're all the same made in china shit
Yup

>> No.1349669

>>1349554
Wrong.

>> No.1349677

>>1349669
but dude I saw an infographic that they all have the same parent company and jumbo multinational corps only have like one factory at most

>> No.1349694

>>1349517
I like these threads. They are intelligent and give lots of information. Very good threads these are. Good ones. I like them very much. You should like them also because of all the quality argumentation and good information they provide! You really really REALLY should. As they are good threads! Really good.

>> No.1349702

Milwaukee definitely makes some solid tools, mine get the crap beaten out of them on the job and seem to out last most of the other brands i've tried by years

>> No.1349752

>>1349484
Makita, I have a 9.6v cordless drill that is 26 years old, I have replaced the switch twice and the chuck spindle once (dropped it out of an airplane). It has been converted to RC lipo batteries.

>> No.1349754

>>1349490
I don't have to think
I only have to do it
The results are always perfect
But that's old news

>> No.1349786

>>1349484
The one that starts with M. Anything turqouise or red

>> No.1349791

>>1349677
wrong. >>1340338

>>1349694
the other thread even made some sense

>>1349498
Hilti/Festool.

>> No.1349797

Hard ro say.

But I will say that out of all of the big commercial names, Black & Decker make the most garbage tools in my opinion. Might as well just take your chances at Harbor Freight and get the same or better product for a 4th of the price.

>> No.1349802

>>1349791
>Festool
depends what sort of professional. a wood professional yes. hairy arsed site engineer or mechanic then no.

>> No.1349803

>>1349797
anything wasp coloured sucks balls, fact

>> No.1349855

Fucking depends, imho its more to what feels best to the user it self. I work with Makita, festool bosch etc.

I like makita because its affordable and their new products are only getting better.

>> No.1349860

>>1349802
>mechanic then no
but why thou?
comfortable to use and 90° chuck

>> No.1349865

>>1349517
Which brands comprise the "high-tier" tools if makita and milwaukee are mid-tier? I always thought they were the best.

>> No.1349867

>>1349865
the ones that cost more

>> No.1349872

>>1349668
How long have you had the 1002 for? I got one a few months back and it fucks up everything in its path, such a beast

>> No.1349873

>>1349860
I don't doubt they work perfectly well, but they have a more joinery based tool line from what I gather? I've not seen impact wrenches or grinders (at least not in bongland, but confess I haven't really checked that).

If this is correct then most people will obviously try to stick with one cordless system to save hassles with various battery systems, meaning that mechanics, mechanic fitters, and the like would swing towards a system with tools focused more in line with their trade.

>> No.1349878

>>1349872
About 6 months, it's a fucking brute, best 18v impact I've owned or used thus far mate.

>> No.1349895

>>1349860
>>1349873
Indeed, afaik festool don't make, say, 1/2" impact wrenches, or sdsdmax rotary hammers. They do however, rather surprisingly, have drywall screw guns.

>> No.1349902
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1349902

>>1349484
my preference.

>> No.1349906

>>1349895
Thanks, I figured that to be the case, as I work in the engineering/fabrication/maintenance industry and have never come across anybody using Festool, despite the fact it is a well regarded brand. In my work it tends to be largely Makita with a sprinkling of Bosch and Dewalt. I seem to see Milwaukee used mostly by sparkys for some reason.

>> No.1349913

They're about the same really for the most part. Might differ on a few models. I remember seeing AVG taking apart a Makita brushless drill a while back and he seemed to like it.
Just get whatever for DIY it'll be fine

>> No.1349917

>>1349906
Festool is expensive as fuck, overpriced really. Never seen it used in trade, maybe some pro furniture makers use it? Woodworkers seem to like it.

>> No.1349925

>>1349917
Yeah, I don't really know many fancy woodworkers, but I've never seen Festool being used in the wild, as food as they are I'm sure.

I see a bit of Hilti in my game but not much, probably just due to it being more expensive. A lot of our work is very dirty and shitty (recycling plants, quarries, energy recovery, etc) so stuff gets heavily used and abused and is replaced semi often, so Hilti wouldn't make financial sense. Doesn't matter how good the gear is in our game, it will get broken at some point, no doubt.

>> No.1349951

>>1349791
>wrong.
Learn to detect sarcasm, autismo.

>> No.1349955

>>1349951
fuck yourself too, it wasn't detactable on that one
notsureiftrolling.jpg

>> No.1349957

Makita guy here.

Buy whatever brand has the accessory tools you want at the budget level you're at.

I've got all makita but I'll never buy some of their cordless stuff when other brands are half or quarter the price for something that doesn't get much use.

>> No.1349960

>>1349955
>>>/reddit/

>> No.1349989

>>1349867
makes sense. and what brand costs the most?

>> No.1350010

I use Milwaukee because I am a mechanic and they are the only mid range brand that makes cordless ratchets. Their electric caulking gun and beam light are nice too. Even if Dewalt or Makita came out with those things I don't think there would be any reason to change.

>> No.1350016

SEE WHAT'S IN YOUR PRICE RANGE
LOOK AT THE SPECS
LOOK AT THE REVIEWS
MAKE AN INFORMED PURCHASE

/thread

>> No.1350021

Why does everyone only talk about cordless tools in these threads? My opinions for corded.
>sidewinder
teal
>wormdrive
teal
>recipricating saw
red
>miter/compound/SCMS
teal
>routers
tie
>3/8 drill
red
>screwdriver
tie
>rotary hammer
teal

Pneumatic tools I'l give entirely to makita.

Just my preferences. I'm a carpenter so I mostly use makita as they offer many more of my trade specific tools. For example, you won't find a milwaukee tablesaw or compressor because they don't make any.

>> No.1350024

>>1350021
But that's just my opinion between the two. Plenty of yellow in my truck, hitachi guns are GOAT, and there's even some ryobi kicking around lol. Makita makes up the largest part of my tools though.

>> No.1350069

>>1350010
See, this is a sensible response.

>> No.1350086

>>1350021
>red
H red or M red?

>tie
whatisthis

>> No.1350105

>>1350086
He means M red.

Tie means a draw, nothing between them

>> No.1350146

>>1349490
Correct

>> No.1350170

THIS

https://functionalcs.github.io/curriculum/

>> No.1350171

.

>> No.1350228

>>1349989
Hilti, Metabo, Fein, Festool, Snap On are all top tier tool brands but not necessarily in that order.

>> No.1350234

>>1349495
Unironically the truth.
There's a point of diminishing returns, and when the chinese factories pumping out these power tools are so incestiously interconnected, the parts are increasingly all the same.
Essentially OP's question is "what label the chinese slap on identical tools is the best?" and the answer is "whichever is cheapest."

>> No.1350239

>>1350234
So you obviously think all automobiles are the same, too.

>> No.1350242

>>1349902
dat 9.6 drill

hhnnnnnnggggg

>> No.1350260
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1350260

>>1349484
This shit right here

>> No.1350265

>>1350239
No, because the openly chink cars are cheap as fuck. I drive a honda, and laugh at all the faggots I see spending more on chevy and ford.

>> No.1350284

>>1349490
bosch? more like botch
fucking europeans

>> No.1350377

>>1350021
>Why does everyone only talk about cordless tools in these threads?

Because cordless tools are the ones you have to make a big decision on. Corded tools you can have as many different brands as you like.

>> No.1350432

>>1350021
>>3/8 drill

go to bed grandpa.

>> No.1350787

>>1349484
Orange fag here. Mostly use the impact, but also the cordless drill and recip. Work in HVAC. Been using the same tools for 8 years, 5 days a week. Only ever replaced 2 batteries - no tools, but maybe I'm just lucky. They're beat to shit, but still get the job done.
Almost every guy at my shop has Milwaukee. In the last 2 years, I've probably seen them replaced more than any other brand. I get shit for owning orange, but I can't tell you how many red and yellow I've seen broken before my tools. Maybe I'm just not as retarded as they are.

>> No.1350814
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1350814

>>1350787
>Orange
This?

>> No.1350830

>>1350021
>Why does everyone only talk about cordless tools in these threads? My opinions for corded.

because I have corded drill, it works great. I have no idea who made it. If the cord breaks I can just replace it with any cord that can handle the amps. My corded tools are a hodge podge of who cares.

cordless tools require a commitment, although there are now companies and people making adapters to connect different batteries to different manufacturers tools.

>> No.1350835

>>1350260
i have a hilti set and really theres almost no difference, except the hilti tools weigh a fuckton and are so oddly shaped they barely fit in a drill holster
>>1350814
lots of contractors use ridgid because it has a no questions asked over the counter warranty. drill doesnt work? go to home depot and the guys will give you a new one, same thing with batteries

>> No.1350846

>>1350835
Oh wait, ignorant europoor me actually wasn't aware that aeg IS ridgid, thought it's just a coincidence them both being orange

Funny how these "aeg" tools are perceived as pro and cost the same as (if not more than) makita / blue bosch

What other brands are just shamelessly rebranded something else, aside these and wuerth=bosch ?

>> No.1350868
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1350868

i know they're overpriced, but i've never had better battery tools than these two. bought them both 3 years ago and absolutely fucking abuse them for 6 hours every day, regularly use the impact with a strong screw jack to lift cars quickly while away from home, and put way too much torque on the ratchet all the time. both still work perfectly, though i do dissasemble, clean, and grease them every 2-3 months

>> No.1350996

>>1350846
Black & Decker and DeWalt, although i found no exact rebrand, they look ridiculous close. some minor changes in the shell case.
But don't tell the Yellow fags
The battery case is where i start looking for similarities

>> No.1351000

>>1350234
You clearly don't have much experience with tools. I'm not a brand warrior, I don't have a favourite brand, however there is a big difference in quality of tools.

And it can vary from tool to tool. For example at work we have 2 different orbital hammers. One is a Bosch and one is a Milwaukee. Both cost the same amount of money but the Bosch is vastly superior in every way.

I have Makita and Milwaukee drill sets. Both seem to be pretty good.

Porter cable makes good stuff if you're looking for cheap.

>> No.1351001

>>1349498
Hilti

>> No.1351002

>>1350228
>Snap on

You fucking wot, mate?

>> No.1351004

>>1349677
You're right about the companies but thats like saying a corvette is the same as a cruze.

>> No.1351008

>>1350432
I'm 24 you stupid cunt. You post this on /tv/ a lot too. Dont deny it, either

>> No.1351016

>>1349484
Makita, because StarCraft

>> No.1351017

>>1349490
>Borscht
What did he mean by this? Do fat fucks not like beets?

>> No.1351100

>>1351004
That was my point

>> No.1351119
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1351119

>>1350846
Britfag here, went to a Bunnings store a while back and saw my first AEGs in person. Thought they'd be really expensive but was surprised to find they were similar to everything else (I know they had Dewalt there, think there was also Makita and Hitachi and I think a red brand so perhaps Milwaukee).

>>1350996
Just because they're shaped the same doesn't mean they're built the same. B+D won't be using the same materials for sure so they'll be less durable and the batteries probably aren't as good either (not to say they're going to be bad either).

>> No.1351155
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1351155

Step aside, amateurs

>> No.1351157

>>1351119
dewalt and b+d are the same company(have been for decades) and almost certainly use identical internals

>> No.1351164

>>1351155
>powered by 12 AA batteries
>full power in reverse only

>> No.1351167

>>1351157
And what proof do you have of this almost certainty? It makes no logical sense for them to build cheaper B+D tools to the same quality as the more expensive Dewalt ones when they could build them much cheaper and maintain the same profit margins. Plus, someone would figure it out and then you'd have all the high end users buying B+D instead.

>> No.1351188

>>1349668
>and my dewalt is made in the USA!

Assembled in Japan out of chinese parts.

>> No.1351190

>>1351167
>And what proof do you have of this almost certainty?

Fits his narrative

>> No.1351195

>>1351167
going by the wild theory, that they all get build in the same magical factory in shenzen, it would be more expensive to have a cheap and a expensive tool line than having a simple rebrand.
No
They are different designed.
The cheap ones have worse tollerance, less machining steps involved,
but why?
they want to outsource to the cheapest chink that can do the job
then they chink out on electronics to create artificial weak points. If never seen or heard of a Drill that had a mechanical fail

>> No.1351204

>>1351195
Everyone, THIS is the person you have been arguing with for the last year.

Do you guys feel stupid now? Thats the problems with giving everyones opinion validity.

>> No.1351206

Milwaukee the end

>> No.1351212

>>1351195
You dumb. Even if the external appearance was identical they're different colours which means they have to change materials to make the casing, so it would make sense to switch to a cheaper material for the B+D tools (also not using GFR means the molds last longer). I wouldn't be surprised if they use worn out Dewalt molds for the B+D line too.

Battery cells, motors, switches, and gears can also be the same shape to fit in the same casing but of differing quality.

>> No.1351225

>>1351188
wasp fag is butt hurt about his inferior yellow black and decker

>> No.1351251

>>1349484
Honestly they both make great tools. Makita is geared more towards carpentry and industrial tools. Large grinders, rotary hammers, jackhammers, ect. Milwaukee is moving hard into the electrical and hvac markets. It depends on what you need the tool for. Ergonomics is also important. I prefer Makita power tools most of the time because they feel good in my hands.

>> No.1351253

>>1351188
>>1351225
my work dewalt set says made in usa, but my home set says made in mexico. same drill set bought about a year apart, yet the american made is noticeably louder and smells bad when it impacts

>> No.1351255

>>1349496
I made a concept for a vertical drill and used excess parts from two old drills to speed it up and have enough torque.

Came close to an actual POC, but the switch decided to fuck off. Can confirm it will run on alkaline batteries at least

>> No.1351302

>>1349677
Yes but Makita is owned by Makita

>> No.1352322

>>1351188
False.

>> No.1352458

Was going to buy a Makita Hammer drill...apparently it can't drill into brick or concrete. Why would someone buy or make a hammer drill that's incapable of dilling masonry?

Bought used Bosch hammer drill for like $20 more.

>> No.1352462

>>1352458
Of course it can you mong

>> No.1352463

>>1349484
They're both made by the same company OP

>> No.1352465
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1352465

>>1352458
>hammer drill that's incapable of dilling masonry

Remember not to confuse a hammer drill with a rotary hammer. The latter is typically an SDS or SDS max chuck, and is exclusively for drilling holes in concrete, rock, brick etc.

>> No.1352545

>>1352463
False.
>>1340338

>> No.1352680

>>1351188
>>1351253
daily reminder that makita, was doing made in america, while everyone else was chink, before the made in america fad came back

>> No.1352681

>>1350021
>>recipricating saw
>red


not green you fucked up

Pneumatic tools
>not green

>> No.1352685

>>1350265
i guess you're not old enough to know that Honda and Toyota built their names by outdoing chevy and ford in quality and longevity.

if you really want to talk paying more for nothing, then it's chevy vs. ford.

>> No.1353838

>>1352681
Why don't you go back and read the post below the one you replied to.

>> No.1353893

>>1350228
hilti would be awesome but I know it would walk off the jobsite within a month.

>> No.1354228

Go with Roybol. They've got a cool logo

>> No.1354256

>>1351253

>yet the american made is noticeably louder and smells bad when it impacts

Most American made products I have used in the past have been raw shit.

I tend these days to prefer to buy the Chinese made items rather than the American made ones.

>> No.1354259

>>1354256

>raw shit

that means it's working

>> No.1354365

>>1351119
AEG power tools aren't the same AEG as the dishwashers

the brand is licenced to techtronic industries who make milwaukee and ryobi shit as well

>> No.1354366

>>1351251
>Milwaukee is moving hard into the electrical and hvac markets
this is what i noticed when i had a bunch of electrical/hvac guys installing stuff at my house a couple months back

milwaukee seems to be muscling in on what was traditionally bosch territory here

makita was the main brand back when my dad was doing his woodworking business

>> No.1354448

>>1351251
>Milwaukee is moving hard into the electrical and hvac markets
>>1354366
>what was traditionally bosch territory here

Which of their tools are electrical/hvac-specific?

>> No.1354460

>>1354365
Cheers for the info, not sure why you replied to me in particular though.

I actually saw quite a few AEG appliances when looking at a new washing machine and never made the connection, just assumed it was a different company that ended up with the same acronym.

>> No.1354471
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1354471

>>1354460
They're also branded Ridgid in some markets.

Oddly, there are these horrid chink "AEG" radios etc., which apparently are yet something else, not related to Electrolux nor TTI.

>> No.1354623

>>1354448
>Which of their tools are electrical/hvac-specific?
none as far as i know, fuckers just loved the drills and impact drivers for being a bit lighter and more compact than most other brands i guess, handy if you're crawling through subfloor/roof spaces or hanging off ladders

>> No.1354631

>>1351253
If it's assembled in the US the parts are made in Mexico (and various others but mostly Mexico)
If it's assembled in Japan the parts are made in China (and various others but mostly China)
just a fact of life
some manufacturers, especially of industrial stuff, differentiate between the two - it will say "made in" "designed in" and "assembled in" either or all

>> No.1354757

>>1349484
makita is a good general choice.
Not always the best for certain things though.

>> No.1355030

>>1349484
Old news now but back in 2008-2009 everyone at work that bought milwaukee drills had them break down and need to be serviced. Every single one.

10 years later and my makita is still going strong on new batteries.

>> No.1355182

>>1349484
Dropped a makita impact off a 12 foot ladder onto concrete and it kept working. I have a milwaukee 18 impact, basic model with brushes that has lasted me 2.5 years. Home Depot has good deals on them and they get the job done for the price, but I'm not out alot if they disappear. Doesn't matter how nice your tools are if they walk away. Big theft problem at my current jobsite and its most likely the illegal drywallers.

>> No.1355228

I know my company has gone through 3 Milwaukee hammer drills in the past 2 months. But that might be the idiots using them

>> No.1355256

>>1355228
builder that now is building my house got so feed up with his workers breaking electric tools that he went full Japanese Makita and now is really happy.

>> No.1355332

I think all power tools are about the same now a days, but Milwaukee is king for me. I do a lot of plumbing and they are the only main stream tool company offering pex expanders and pvc cutters. I get shit done twice as fast with my Milwaukee plumbing tools.

>> No.1355351

So I am looking at 3/8 inch impact cordless, what brands should I look into? I am on a budget but I am not spending price of a snap on impact (600 or so)

>> No.1355361

>>1349484
for my regular drill i have makita and 1/4 in chuck drill i have makita.

gonna get milwaukee next for my 1/2 and 3/8 impact wrench drills

and then im sticking with milwaukee since they have a wide variety of tools and their batteries work on all of them.

>> No.1355362
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1355362

>>1355351
>3/8 inch impact cordless
pic related for 250$ at homedepot.

there you go

>> No.1355373

>>1355362
Thanks anon, I talked to a co worker, and he actually recommended the same brand.

>> No.1355394

I work construction makita has gome to shit everyone carrys milwaukee here. They're solid and powerfull.

>> No.1355413

>>1355394
>Makita has gone to shit
Citation needed

Stop talking shit for the sake of it

>> No.1355415

>>1349484
For most, the gear is all fairly decent and will hold up in a worksite environment really well.
Where the money talks is in the peripherals- how much the battery's cost, chargers, accessories and warranty. That is probably more of import to a tradie than the tool itself because you can't afford downtime.

>> No.1355417
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1355417

How's Hitachi? Not that I have a choice.
Dad bought Hitachi and decided I would too so we could share batteries/chargers.

The gun I have is great, except for the distance the trigger has to travel before it actually starts spinning.

>> No.1355430
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1355430

>>1355362
didnt realise BTI is a straight milwaukee rebrand
on the powerdrill, just the color is different

>> No.1355467

Makita drills are superior but Milwaukee has a much larger tool selection. So if you work construction milwaukee would be the way to go.

>> No.1355544

>>1355430
Are you blind? The battery is identical in appearance (doesn't mean it's the same inside, or event he materials used) but everything else is different.

>> No.1355554
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1355554

>>1355544
i talked about the powerdrill fagget

>> No.1355560

>>1355554
Then post a picture of the power drill, faggot. Also put it side by side with the Milwaukee it is supposedly identical to. If you want to make a point then prove it yourself, don't expect us to do it for you.

>> No.1355565
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1355565

>>1355554

>> No.1355582

>>1349484
>Ctrl+f, no AvE
Focus, you fucks!

>> No.1355602

>>1355582
Here's one for you
AVE is a fucking faggot, and his 12 year old fans should kill themselves.

>> No.1355649
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1355649

>>1355602

>> No.1355669

Just buy dewalt

>> No.1355717
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1355717

>>1349484
Makita and Bosch still have some manufacturing in first world counties. Bosch realised it can make big money selling crap so it split its pro (blue) and consumer (green) stuff to play the whole market.

Being owned by a private investment company is usually bad for quality, though it does make tools for occasional users cheaper. The big multi brand companies cannibalise good companies for quick profit so I won't support them.

>> No.1355805

>doing research on impacts
>wifi enabled impacts

I literally thought people would exaggerate when almost anything is wifi enabled these days...

>> No.1355810

>>1349495
Here's your, (you)

>> No.1355834

>>1351155
The true professional’s choice

>> No.1355872

Hilti is great if your drilling or anchoring to masonry. Milwaukee 18v and 12v lineups offer a ton of options and contain great drill/drivers and impact guns. Bosh is a good sub for Milwaukee, but they don't offer as many accessories to be used with the same battery set. Mikita is ok, but I've had no luck with them. Ryobi, rigid, etc... anything associated with the home Depot or Lowe's is dog shit and should be avoided unless you're on a sketchy job site and you don't mind working with a shit set of tools that you're ok with losing.

>> No.1355881

>>1350868

Try Milwaukee, they rape SnapOn.

>> No.1355922

>>1349902
damn, I grew up using those old NiCad makita's of my dad's, and that's why I still buy them today.

>> No.1356020
File: 93 KB, 802x548, KO punch set.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1356020

>>1354448
>>1354623
Electricians specific tool

>> No.1356030

Dewalt

>> No.1356371

I need an impact driver to drive self-drilling hex screws into .024 stainless steel for industrial insulation work. Also need a drill to drill out 2-5/8" holes into said jacketing

I was considering getting a DeWalt 20V MAX w/ 2 x 5Ah batteries and a Milwaukee M18 FUEL w/ 2 x 5Ah batteries.

Top considerations are reliability, size, weight, balance, and power (for drill). Also, they must be cordless. They're going to be used at awkward angles which is why weight and balance are priorities. They're also going to be used in tight quarters, which is why size matters.

Also, it's going to be paid for by my company so price doesn't matter. Thoughts?

>> No.1356372

>>1355881
His Snap On ratchet and little gun are WAY better than Milwaukees, I still use the Milwaukees though, can't justify the price of Snap On.

>> No.1356378

>>1356371
if you get the Milwaukee with one key you can program the perfect mode to fit the screws your using

>> No.1356394

>>1356371
Stick to one brand.

> .024 stainless steel
That's inches right? Like 0.6mm. If size and weight are a concern you could get by with less than 18/20v. If you don't mind switching bits you could even just use a single 1/4" hex driver and get some hex shank drill bits. If you need a torque limiter I think some of the fancy new brushless models have that, or use a drill with the tradtitional slipper clutch.

>> No.1356395

>>1356020
Who are the people buying and using an entire machine for just one such specific purpose, instead of one of these?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AiUtTxfNj0E

>> No.1356406

>>1356395
Smaller, lighter, can be used one handed, doesn't need to rely on having a spare drill around with a charged battery (if you're gonna have a dedicated drill for the knock-out adapter then then it makes more sense just to get a completely dedicated tool).

>> No.1356407

>>1349490
Got one of these, happy so far, but I don't use it much

>> No.1356409

New construction here

Milwaukee is for high performance
Dewalt is for longevity
Makita is for carpenters

Prove me wrong, you harry home owner faggots.

>> No.1356412

>>1356409
>Prove me wrong

They are all about the same, and only are picked up by niche crowds because of peer pressure and battery sharing.

>> No.1356413

>>1356406
>a spare drill around with a charged battery
why a *spare*, you just do have *a* drill

>>1356406
>lighter
I didn't check, could be true could be not

>can be used one handed
wondering what could you desperately need to use your other hand for while onehandedly punching a hole in a metal box

>a completely dedicated tool
is also pricier than that drill-powered device

>> No.1356417

>>1356412

>they are about the same

Absolutely not true. Milwaukee smokes Dewalt in speed and power. But cockroaches will still be able to use dewalt tools after the nuclear holocaust. Youll have to use your milwaukee warranty at least once if your putting any real miles on your tools.

>> No.1356420

>>1356417
>But cockroaches will still be able to use dewalt tools after the nuclear holocaust

They smoke themselves faster than either Makita or Milwaukee, which makes me question where you are getting these ideas from

>> No.1356423

>>1356378
I probably should have been more specific, but I wanted the M18 drill and DeWalt impact driver.

Also, not to sound too rude, but the ONE-KEY system seems kind of meme level. I don't need an app to use a fucking drill or impact driver. I've got enough apps on my phone as it is; I don't need an app for every Wi-Fi-enabled drill/crockpot/allen wrench/etc.

>> No.1356424

>>1356413

You dont understand how production oriented construction works. You and another guy might build 20 services in a day while two other guys follow behind you and pull/terminate. Having a knock out tool vs that faggy drill thing could be the difference between setting 20 services and setting 17 services. And if you know what the payout on a service, youll realize how badly your boss needs those extra three done.

>> No.1356426

>>1356420

Personally Ive never seen a dewalt tool break. Meanwhile, my supply house is taking 15+ m18 fuel drill/drivers back to milwaukee on warranty per week.

>> No.1356427

>>1356413
>why a *spare*, you just do have *a* drill
Because someone else might be using it, it could have a dead battery, or it could just be fucked altogether. With a dedicated tool you know that it it's charged and functioning correctly then you can get the job done.

>I didn't check, could be true could be not
I didn't either, but I would assume a drill and a larger entirely metal gearbox would weigh more.

>wondering what could you desperately need to use your other hand for while onehandedly punching a hole in a metal box
Perhaps the box isn't fixed in place, perhaps you're supporting yourself on a ladder, perhaps space is tight and it's awkward to get both arms on the tool at once.

>is also pricier than that drill-powered device
I don't really get how that's relevant. The advantages could very well be worth the cost. Like wise the disadvantages of the cheaper option could be worth the money saved. I'm not arguing that one is better than the other over all because that depends on who is using it, I'm just telling you some of the ways that this one is better.

>> No.1356428
File: 13 KB, 221x250, D55D6C62-18EE-4E28-A942-20E634B0117A.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1356428

>>1356417
>Milwaukee smokes Dewalt in speed and power

>> No.1356434

>>1356426
CAuse milwaukee is trash

>> No.1356436

>>1356434

Not true, they blow dewalt out of the water in every side by side ive ever seen in person. And milwaukee is lightyears ahead on the battery game.

Basically dewalt is for cheap fags that hate buying tools and milwaukee is for people who actually like their job

>> No.1356438

>>1356436
And I’ve seen the opposite faggot, try harder

>> No.1356439

Rrreeeee fucking normies

>> No.1356443

>>1356439
Let me guess...

>muh hilti

>> No.1356445

>>1356438

Sure you have. But your experiences are meaningless because they are wrong. Your opinion is worth nothing. Try harder

>> No.1356448

>>1356424
Good point. I totally understand how, say, drywall screw guns make you more productive than using an ordinary battery drill or impact driver instead.
That thing though, in a case like you described where you cut them holes all day erry day, sure, but if you're a sparky with a occasional need for such, an accessory which does the job just as well seems more reasonable than a more expensive single-use tool, doesn't it?

>>1356427
>I would assume a drill and a larger entirely metal gearbox would weigh more
I thought the weight of that milwaukee tool vs that slug-out driver just itself, as in the extra thing you would be carrying around when you hava a drill anyway

>> No.1356450
File: 38 KB, 601x508, 27DB7BA4-BA06-4BC9-9876-308B66ECEB1D.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1356450

>>1356445
>You’re wrong my opinions are facts

>> No.1356452

>>1356436
>milwaukee is lightyears ahead on the battery game
Care to elaborate or provide some source?
I hear this all the time, but what's it all about really? The elements are much the same, aren't they. Controllers might be different, but I'm not sure how much and how this affects battery performance and longevity.

>> No.1356455

>>1355560
Clearly a milwuakee rebeand you fuccboi

Where can I find these knockoff Milwaukee's, asking for a friend

>> No.1356456

>>1356398

>Stick to one brand
Why? I'm looking for the best impact driver and the best drill. Batteries aren't a big deal, and neither is money.

Yes, that's .024" stainless steel. Self-tapping screws going into 1 to 6 layers of that .024" SS. I think for reliability, 18/20V is good. And size/weight is a good consideration, not the end all be all. It's mostly for when I need to drill at an arm's length.

And I'm not looking for 2-5/8" depth, I'm making 2-5/8" diameter holes using a carbide-tipped hole saw. It's to install ultrasonic inspection ports.

And I was looking for specific tool recommendations. Thanks

>> No.1356458

>>1356456
Meant to reply to this guy
>>1356394

>> No.1356504

>>1356448
>I thought the weight of that milwaukee tool vs that slug-out driver just itself, as in the extra thing you would be carrying around when you hava a drill anyway
Sure, but I'm talking about the total weight that you have to hold. If you need to use the drill anyway to make the pilot holes (instead of someone else doing them before hand, or even doing them yourself at a previous point in time) then using the adapter lowers the total weight that you have to lug about, but it causes more fatigue from holding the thing up and wastes more time having to switch between the drill bit and the adapter.

>> No.1356508
File: 145 KB, 1000x1000, 711OMMnuwfL._SL1000_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1356508

>>1356423
I own the DCF887 and it is crazy powerful but the "low" setting is kinda goofy and I thought you might like something different, but I agree having your tools hooked up to your phone is a meme and not something I necessarily want

>> No.1356510

>>1349484
Um... Milwaukee duh

>> No.1356514

>>1356456
>Why? I'm looking for the best impact driver and the best drill. Batteries aren't a big deal, and neither is money.
Having the same batteries is a big benefit. The difference between brands will be negligible, not enough to warrant having to keep two types of batteries charged and losing the ability to interchange batteries.

>Yes, that's .024" stainless steel. Self-tapping screws going into 1 to 6 layers of that .024" SS
Oh right, didn't realise you'd be going through that many layers. In that case 18/20v is probably best.

>And I was looking for specific tool recommendations.
Honestly, you'll probably get a fairly equal amount of recommendations for each brand and equal amount of people shitting on each brand. None are really better than the others unless you want to step up to the likes of Hilti/Festool/Panasonic/etc.

If you can go to a store and give all the brands a fondle and just pick whatever feels best. You could also look into the warranties, no idea how much that differs across the different brands.

>> No.1356570

>>1356452

They buy a higher quality cell and put more of them in their batteries. Coupled with a brushless motor, you get some crazy run times. I can probably do like 500 holes with 1-1/8 inch bit, with a 9.ah battery on a hole hawg.

But you are right in that almost every power tool is putting some sort of panasonic in their battery pack

>> No.1356580

>>1356508
I have the larger dewalt impact, it's pretty damn useful for either breaking loose, or twisting off bolts.

>> No.1356589

>>1349902
My grandpa has Makita tools from the 80s and thats the reason I use them.

>> No.1356601

>>1356570
Cells are not higher quality, they have different chemical properties and exchange more watt hours for less totall cell lifetime.
Only real differece is stuff like fine or hilti, who dont use 18650 but the next standard size up. Thats why their packs are more bulky. As 18650 will likely die in a few years, expect the other brands to catch up

>> No.1356776

>>1356589
>found a ridiculous looking early 90s makita drill at a garage sale and pick it up on a whim.
>bring it to work, as a joke
>unironically end up using it the most out of all the drills at work because the chuck, (a tiny 3/8 one, at that) has far lower runout than anything we have in the shop.

the moral of the story is my shop buys really shitty drills, I guess. One of these days I'm going to replace all the shot out NiCds with a pair of 18650s and see how that goes.

>> No.1356861
File: 15 KB, 444x307, F0466794-02.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1356861

>>1356570
>and put more of them in their batteries
Makita, Bosch etc. too have batteries ranging from 1.something to 5.0Ah, the bigger capacity ones having more cells than smaller ones.
Brushless motors, too, are not unique to DeWalt.

>>1356601
But what about battery controllers, couldn't that be true that some tool brands have those more sophisticated which results in less battery wear or something?

>>1356504
Makes sense, but again, it's a different story whether you have to make dozens of holes a day or a few a year.
And after all, for occasional use pic related is good enough, isn't it.

>> No.1356873

>>1356861
>Makes sense, but again, it's a different story whether you have to make dozens of holes a day or a few a year.
So why did you ask why people would buy the dedicated tool then?

>> No.1357094

>>1356861
They do all have balancing and charging controller are mostly off the shelf ic chips. Not much difference here.
Batterys degrade through heat, more heat = less lifetime. So more torque on the tool ~= more current (~because motor, cotroller and gearboxes varry in efficiency loss)
More current = more heat.
How to mitigate? Afaik, none brand has heatsinks on the cells. You cant cheat physics

>> No.1357102

>>1357094
>They do all have balancing and charging controller are mostly off the shelf ic chips. Not much difference here.

So all this "tool brand x batteries of identical capacity, used on a tool of identical specs, will deteriorate slower than tool brand y batteries, " is pure BS?

>> No.1357121

>>1357102
No, it's not.

I'm a heavy user of 18650 cells, and they are by no means equal, even when quoted as such. There are a lot of variables.

>> No.1357154

>>1357102
Theyr not equal, as i stated, some trade more umpf for less total lifetime and the ones from ali express are propably straight lemons fallen through qc.
Also, there are no identical tools on the market. The whole tool design determinates the powerloss during operation. That means, comparing batterys of different brand is meaningless

>> No.1357176

>>1349668
Hmm. I have their hammer drill and the XWT08 impact...One of the two was still made in japan, not sure which though, I think it was the impact. I quite like it. I haven't had any problems getting bolts off of cars now. But I have had issues with shearing transmission mount bolts like butter.

>> No.1357223

>>1351155
I got this for like $20 on purple tag sale

>> No.1358794

Time to turn this thread into maximum autist.
Black and decker. Acceptable quality for DIY work, very acceptable. I can buy 5 black and decker 20 volt drill drivers ( I get them on sale for around 20-25 bucks) for the price of one dewalt. They won't last as long but i can guarantee five of them will outlast them.
Having said that, grandpa has a makita ac drill driver from the 80s I bind up once when i was drilling a bolt hole through a camper floor. It slammed my leg against the wall. I thought I broke it. Hurt like hell. VERY strong.

>> No.1359477
File: 134 KB, 800x597, .jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1359477

>Psssh… Nothin Personnel… Kids…

>> No.1359566

>>1350996
We used to make the Dewalt and BD shells in eau claire at the multi shot facility along with whirlpool knobs and Philips Sonicare toothbrushs. Not sure if Phillips still makes them

>> No.1359567

>>1359566
Molds not makes

>> No.1359576

>>1349484
Makita

>> No.1360637
File: 266 KB, 923x784, Untitled.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1360637

>18V LXT 2.0 Ah Cordless Lithium-Ion 1/2 in. Driver Drill - XFD01Z
>18V LXT 2.0 Ah Cordless Lithium-Ion 1/4 in. Impact Driver - XDT04Z
>Two (2) 18V LXT 2.0 Ah Compact Lithium-Ion Batteries - BL1820
>18V Ah Lithium-Ion Rapid Optimum Charger - DC18RC
>Tool Bag - 831274-0
>manufacturer refurb
>120 buckazoids

yea or nay?

>> No.1360920

>>1360637
I hate how their drill bags look like lunch boxes. Just makes me want to reach in their and grab a sandwich

>> No.1361030

>>1349484
watch AvE channel on youtube. most of these brands all have same parent company i belive

>> No.1361035

>>1360637
Besides it being refurbished which very rarely is hit or miss. dude you cannot go wrong its a really good work horse set

>> No.1361042

I'm an engineer for one of the bigger U.S.A based power tool companies, ama I guess?

>> No.1361091

>>1357102
18650 is a size of a cell
http://www.samsungsdi.com/lithium-ion-battery/power-devices/power-tool.html
there's variation in capacity and max rated discharge rate
idk which company uses which quality cells in which packs etc.

>>1357094
>>1356861
DeWalt and Milwaukee have 9.0 Ah batteries too
PRO TIP: generally the higher the capacity of a battery pack the lower its internal impedance is & thus the higher maximum output power through the tool.
It's actually insane, you can get something like +20-30% peak power and significantly more peak torque out of drills by jumping from a 2.0 to a 5.0 or 5.0 to 9.0

>>1360637
Seems like a decent deal. See my thoughts below on batteries. 2.0 is fine for most easy tasks but if you need more power consider having one larger capacity battery on hand

LASTLY - general tips/thoughts
Most mid-tier+ (makita bosch milwaukee dewalt) recent stuff is all pretty similar in performance and quality.
Regarding family companies: yes it's true lots of them have parent companies, see this post for the breakdown >>1355717
Hilti is the most overhyped shit I've ever seen. I don't even think they make a brushless tool.
Buy brushless where possible.
Use the biggest battery that is comfortable to use on the tool.
If you're just getting into a tool system consider which company makes a tool that you need/would want - especially if you're a pro or need specialized tools often
If you're a DIYer really all you need is a drill, impact, and a saw + maybe some smaller 12V one off tools like a rotary tool so get whatever you want.

>> No.1361109

>>1361091
>Hilti is the most overhyped shit I've ever seen. I don't even think they make a brushless tool.
They make brushless impact drivers, a rotary hammer, a grinder, an oscilatting multi-tool, and some breakers (jack hammers). No idea why they haven't done a brushless drill yet but I imagine they have a good reason and perhaps they'll figure it out soon.

>> No.1362227
File: 229 KB, 2000x2000, c5c2fc82-cce6-4d1e-b8b9-61067a6e12f3_1.5dedd2766e5c94b00e525f565081acb4.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1362227

>> No.1362260

>>1361042
Mass market power tools; how much is not made in china?
If you see a feature on another tool that you like, how long before you incorporate it into your tools? (ie: if someone were inclined to wait)

>> No.1362288

>>1361091
so, does the battery size trick only matter for stall current or also in regular use?

>> No.1362293

>>1362227
B A S E D
A
S
E
D

>> No.1362478

>>1362227
>Ni-Cd
to the trash

>> No.1362494
File: 76 KB, 1000x1000, dwusa.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1362494

>>1362260
I can't speak with 100% confidence for all companies, but I think nearly all production level parts are made in China with few exceptions like some advanced/complex/precise parts or technologies from EU/US/Japan.

For the most part run of the mill power tools don't use incredibly high quality parts and China pumps them out cheaply so yeah...China 99+% for mass market tools.

Assembly is a mixed bag. DeWalt has their line of made in the U.S. tools but all they're doing is assembling the parts that were made in China. Makita and Milwaukee also, but a lesser extent across their product lines - parts from China, assembly in Japan/U.S.

Second Question:

Typically feature-set and design decisions are made in the early stages of the product based upon feedback from customers and marketing input. Basically as soon as engineers are on the project they're designing the tool to include the feature set and hit the target performance & size laid out for them.

Sometimes engineers can propose and add features that go beyond the voice of the customer, but that's rare. Sometimes we're at the mercy of patents and can't include x,y, or z feature because it's patented. That's less rare.

If the tool is generational/iterative (drills, impacts, reciprocating saws, etc.) I'd suspect somewhere in the 3ish year range is reasonable for cycle reboot times on these tools.

Hopefully that helps! If you have anything more specific i.e. what feature & tool you had in mind, I might be able to give you a better estimate.

>>1362288
Not sure I understand your question. If I can make a guess, you're wondering does a tool perform better in light/mid power applications as it does in stall/peak torque with a bigger battery?

The answer to that is yes, but the closer you get to 0 load, the less the effect the battery has.

Also at some point your motor or electronics may be the limiting factor either due to the laws of physics or protections in place to make sure the tool doesn't kill itself

>> No.1362508

>>1362494
Why does that dewalt look so different from mine?

>> No.1362540

>>1362508
just some random image I grabbed
looks like it's this one https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-20-Volt-MAX-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Compact-Drill-Driver-with-2-Batteries-1-5Ah-Charger-and-Contractor-Bag-DCD780C2/202922391

compact brushed DC drill

>> No.1362542

>>1362508
Because it's a different model? Don't ask such stupid questions.

>>1361091
>>1362288
>>1362494
Bullshit. The tool has no idea the capacity of the battery it is being powered by, it will have inbuilt protection to limit the maximum current it will draw and that will be set based on the smallest capacity battery available.

In fact chances are the limit won't even be determined by the batteries but rather by what the circuitry and motor can handle. For example even a 5 cell 18v pack (around 2-2.5Ah), which will be limited to the current draw of a single cell, could deliver say 20A continuous and peak at 25A+. That's 420w+ on a fresh charge (500w+ for a 6 cell like a Hilti).

>> No.1362574

>>1362542
It's not bullshit. The tool doesn't have to "know" anything. Though you're dead wrong, it would be piss easy to make the battery communicate with the tool and have the tool know which battery is attached to it. I'm sure there are potential uses for that sort of communication. But that's neither here nor there.

You only mentioned a pack with cells in series. Now consider an equivalent voltage pack with twice the capacity - let's say a 4.0Ah pack. You'll have a second parallel series of 5 cells.

Now you effectively are driving each series of 5cells half as much. Your internal impedance of the pack is dropped by half, which essentially means your voltage drop across the cells is less for an equivalent current (~= torque) load. You therefore run faster & thus have higher power output.

Protection is a whole different topic. I don't see its relevance here.

Do people think you're an asshole IRL too?

>> No.1362578

>>1362542
>>1362574
double taking, now I understand somewhat better what you're trying to describe. You're right there's generally no protection limit on the tool based upon battery. Tools protect themselves by shutting down based upon firmware models and thermistor data.

Batteries do have their own internal protection models though. They will shut down if over driven. You can try this yourself by taking any beefy brushless drill or grinder and going to town on an application w/ a small capacity battery pack. If your pack is worth its salt then you'll be able to successfully cause it to shut down without killing yourself.

I'm not sure if you had any beef with what I was saying about larger batteries being able to deliver more power, but I stand by that as it's true.

>> No.1362582

>>1362574
>>1362578
Obviously it would be technically possible for the battery to communicate its capacity to the tool, what I'm saying it that they don't.

I'm also saying that even a 5/6 cell pack can provide more current than a lot of tools could handle, never mind a 10/12 cell pack that puts them in parallel for double the current output.

The battery protection you mention is for heat, not current. A higher capacity pack will allow the tool to run for longer before overheating the pack, not allow it to achieve a higher peak power output.

>> No.1362603

>>1362582
>I'm also saying that even a 5/6 cell pack can provide more current than a lot of tools could handle, never mind a 10/12 cell pack that puts them in parallel for double the current output.

Not necessarily true (for the 5/6 cell pack). You can run up to peak power conditions for short amounts of time with certain tools.
See my previous response. It's not that hard to beat to shit a 2ah 18V pack. You need to be aggressive with it, sure probably, but it's possible. Agreed that it's very hard for a common user to do the same to a 10/12 cell pack

>The battery protection you mention is for heat, not current.
100% agree. Avoiding overtemping a pack is exactly what battery protection is for. As far as I'm aware, protections for batteries record current and heat (via thermistors) and shut down packs based upon a model that takes one or both of these into account.

>A higher capacity pack will allow the tool to run for longer before overheating the pack, not allow it to achieve a higher peak power output
Higher peak power occurs because there is less of a drop in voltage across the cells. It has nothing to do with protections. Look up DCIR
When you discharge a cell hard, its voltage drops - the chemistry works harder and more energy is lost thermally.
When you make a good controlled parallel connection of cells, you're disbursing that hard discharge across multiple lanes. The cells run at a higher voltage, running more efficiently (cooler) AND delivering more power to the driven motor/electronics (remember, higher voltage - same load current)

I'm not going to argue this any further. I have run several tools on dynamometers with various battery capacities. Probably the best way to put this to the test is if you have a tool with two different capacity packs try running equivalent applications side by side. With your low capacity pack, your tool will bog down and be slower in application vs. a high capacity pack. More noticeable for aggressive applications

>> No.1362605

>>1362582
out of curiosity what's your background & credentials?

>> No.1362622

For the battery thing, its simple physics. More cells in parallel = more capacity and less internal resistence.
Now the question is, stall current can be up to 10 times In on a brushed dc motor. If the battery can supply more current before voltage drops, you get more umpf at lowest rpm. This is determinated by low battery resistance. In theory. Because i cant say a 2Ah battery has not enough short circuit current to supply the stalled tool. This can be measured by simply hooking the voltmeter on the powerlines of the drill and letting it suffer. The bigger battery should have less voltage drop

>> No.1362720

>>1362622
Bingo.

Side note: imagine a plot. X axis is current, Y axis is voltage.

If you were to plot the characteristics of two battery output volts/amps (V/I) over a ramped discharge you'd see two lines that intercept at Voc (Let's say 20V) and diverge from there - low capacity packs drop in volts/amp at a greater rate than high capacity packs. The slope of the line you draw is effectively inline resistance of the battery.

>> No.1362732

>>1351002
I don't think they know that snap on doesn't make tools, they sell them

>> No.1362871

>>1349495
This shit is garbage kys poorfag

>> No.1362892

>>1349791
>Hilti

Good job it comes with that 3 year warranty because believe me you'll fuckin need it. Over rated shite. I've stopped buying hilti. The only things they sell now that I have to use is the HKD anchor system and that's normally because the client requests it. Otherwise I use Fischer or Rawl, but hilti tools? Nah, had enough of that rubbish. Not worth the over inflated price at all.

>> No.1362896

>>1349865
>Mid tier

Don't fall for it. Both Milwaukee and Makita are used by professionals the world over. Even Boeing use Makita.

Mid tier is just something cork sniffing Germans use for anything that isn't Fein, festool, metabo or Mafell.

Spoiler: Mafell and festool cordless drills and drivers are crap.

>> No.1362900

>>1355394
>Until the trigger fails

Makita are the same now as they were 5 years ago.

>> No.1362902

>>1356436
>side by side ive ever seen in person.

Did they take the batteries off the DeWalt?

>> No.1362928

>>1349484
Milwaukee for sure. Use them on all my jobs.

>> No.1362938

>>1362478
Agreed, was just the first picture I found of that brand. My NiCad battery didnt even last a year

>> No.1362940

>>1349484
>Who makes better power tools?
Techtronics makes almost everything that isn't sold at Harbor Freight.

>> No.1362947

>>1362940
No, they don't.
>>1362928
Oh well if you say they're the best then clearly they are, especially given the great evidence you provided.

>> No.1363076

>>1362940
Lol agreed

>> No.1363326

Makita 18v Sub Compact Brushless Combo Kit vs Makita 453? or something conpletely different? Looking for my first own drill. Or something from a different company?

>> No.1363333

>>1356371
Bought the dewalt kit. Love how light it is. Owned for 4 years. Tile trade. Used so many screws putting backerboard up. I love the belt clip on it. I hang it off my belt while pushing a board in and then grabndrill. Would reccomend 10/10.

Followup: if you dont like dewalt, milwaukee is also light but i think their battery is only 18v. I could be wrong.

>> No.1363377

>>1352465
This. A rotary hammer has an actual percussion assembly whereas a hammer drill just creates a vibration effect good enough for cinder.

>> No.1363896

>>1363333
Engineer faggot here

DeWalt is also 18V. They use the same batteries as Milwaukee. Voc is 20V for both companies. Once you use it a bit the loaded voltage is close to 18V.

Tldr it's semantics but they're essentially the same..20V is more marketable though so DeWalt went with that.

Both drills are great though

>> No.1364041

>>1363333
all 20v batteries are actually the same as 18v models, 20v is the nominal starting output under no load while 18v is the running output.

US laws are vague on the subject and allow tools to be branded as 20v for marketing reasons (the same tools are labeled as 18v in the UK). the same goes for 12v tools, they are actually 10.8v but decimals are for faggots so everyone labels them as 12v.

>> No.1364203

>>1364041
afaik its not allowed by EU law to market with peak voltage, Bosch used to name its the 10.8V line but now its 12v
Either they changed the law, or the cells

>> No.1364924

>>1364041

>US laws are vague on the subject

US laws are vague on all marketing subjects.

I mean. It's the beginning of 2018 yet you guys are selling cars from 2019 and showcasing the 2019 models which you can buy at the end of this year.

>> No.1365037

>>1355362
same fag you replied to, I ended up ordering similiar package, but for 20 dollars more I got the 5.0 a/h batteries, and a 6 or 8 piece sockets, too.

>> No.1365064

>>1349484
Ask your mum, she has loads of tools with dildos attached.

>> No.1365102
File: 61 KB, 461x304, 18vhammer2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1365102

Maybe someone can help me out. Looking to buy my first power tools, because I want to build a garden shed and deceided its time to own some tools like my father did, finally have some money (still in college).
Been looking at Bosch prof., Makita, DeWalt and Milwaukee. Think Im gonna need a Drill/hammerdrill and a circular saw (probably get a corded one). Maybe an impact driver, not sure about this one.

>> No.1365105

>>1365102
forgot. Budget around 400-500€ max.

>> No.1365188

>>1365102
>>1365105
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y4BkB9Q52LU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vQV5fRcgQj4

here's for hammerdrills:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zrp0iNLWu2k
don't really recommend them if you're planning on making large holes in concrete. if you are then I'd look at some sds rotary hammer drills

try to stick to one brand because of the batteries. those brands you've looked at are pretty much the best you can get so I would say it doesn't really matter which one you choose.
Just look at some reviews and then make your decision

>> No.1365254

>>1365188
I did look at a lot of reviews, but it was kinda hard to translate their tests to my budget and needs. The thing I took away from them is that Bosch blue isnt as good as I thought it to be. The comments are always brand loyal as fuck, seems like android vs Ios. Thanks for your input!

>> No.1365268

>>1365254
Brand honestly doesn't matter (unless one has a particularly good warranty), just pick whatever is cheapest from one of the decent brands you've mentioned. Get an 18/20v kit with a drill and impact driver (with a 1/4" hex chuck). Get a corded SDS rotary hammer if you'll be drilling into concrete/brick and don't worry about getting the same brand as the drill and driver as you won't be sharing batteries (likewise with the circular saw), just look around for the cheapest deal.

>> No.1365273

>>1365268
Thanks. Think I will get the saw etc corded because of the brand stuff like you said. Is an impact driver a must? They look pretty handy for larger bolts and some car work, but some of the hammerdrills in the reviews were able to put in pretty large screws as well.

>> No.1365279

>>1365273
It's handy just to have the two tools, a drill for making holes and the driver for putting the screws in. Also due to the impact mechanism they can drive the screws harder than a drill without stripping the head, and with less chance of injuring your wrist. I think most spin a bit faster than most drills too so that saves even more time.

It's not an absolute must if you want to save a bit of money, but I don't think you'll be saving that much, you'll likely want a second battery anyway so you're only paying for the extra driver body and combo kits tend to be a fair amount cheaper than buying everything separately.

>> No.1365281

>>1365273
>>1365279
do not get an impact driver just yet, unless you're planning on driving many large screws all the time. if you happen to be struggling driving in large screws you could just simply bore a hole smaller than the screw first, then it would go in easy. that's what I do if my drill struggles to drive in a large screw or the material is hard

>> No.1365283

I was looking at getting some Bosch drivers but rigid has lifetime warranty. Anyone have any experience with rigid? It seems appealing that it'll be the last drill set I'd have to buy. Even if quality is a bit lower it still seems enticing....

>> No.1365288

>>1349906
Milwaukee line up caters to plumbers and electricians. There are all kinds of plumbing tools I've only ever seen made by Milwaukee

>> No.1365294

>>1365283
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ODf7760HwNY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vQV5fRcgQj4

>> No.1365296

>>1351167
I'm not even a DeWalt guy but sometimes i'll borrow co-workers DeWalt tools. Anyone who says b+d is same quality as DeWalt loses all credibility in anything they say.

>> No.1365298

>>1351253
Read sticker closely. It says "proudly american" and the small print says "parts made globally".

>> No.1365330

>>1365281
>>1365279
Thanks again guys. Think it is between the Milwaukee 2897-22 M18 Fuel 2-tool Combo Kit or the equivalent DeWalt set. They seem to outperform most of the other brands in the reviews I watched. Want to build a medium shed pretty soon so the impact driver might come in handy.

>> No.1365340

>>1365102
get a worm drive corded

tools are up to you it all memes at this point.

>> No.1365350

>>1365188
>no sample stats
>discerning anything from a sample of one.

>> No.1365369
File: 46 KB, 550x592, 87656456.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1365369

>>1365102
honestly, buy by ergonomics.
Go into a hardware store and compare
a good feel is way more important than being able to drill 150 holes instead of 145 per battery
I don't see why you should get a hammer drill, but the Bosch hammer drill has an Aluminum gearbox that fits a stury Handle, which i like a lot
duno about the other brands

>> No.1365390

>>1365340
>worm drive
Would love to, but no worm drive here in Europe.

>>1365369
Thought it´d be a nice feature in order to do some light drilling in masonry etc.

>> No.1365397

>>1365390
>in order to do some light drilling in masonry
I totally support you with that one
quite the hassle having to go out to the car getting the rotary hammer and perhaps an extension cord just to drill some holes when you could simply switch over to hammering on the drill

>> No.1365703

>>1350996
Same

>> No.1366013

>>1365397
>rotary hammer and perhaps an extension cord

>2018
>no cordless rotary hammer

>> No.1366178

Whens the best time of the year for drill sales / clearence?

>> No.1366204

>>1366178
Easter Drill-O-Rama, you just missed it, you'll have to wait a year.

>> No.1366631

>>1366013
it's the one I was given, okay?

are battery powered ones comparable in the form of performance? wouldn't they use a lot of power too so you would have to recharge the battery often?

>> No.1366718

>>1366631

It's an argument you'll hear constantly on here that they don't compare and admittedly (depending on which model and capacity batteries you have) generally don't.

However, for the people buying cordless rotary hammers it normally doesn't matter because they're not buying them for the sake of it - they're buying them because they're professional tradesmen who need portability without the need to rely on electricity. They also need to consider servicable life and any potential downtime againsts cost.

So more often than not a brushless cordless rotary hammer with on-board extraction (new OSHA regs require dust control) will be the favourite over a corded brushed model.

I have a cordless brushless 18v makita rotary which I use on site. I use it heavily as most of the buildings I work in are concrete structured and normally I can go all day with a single 6ah battery drilling a range of various sized holes.

It's also a lot easier than trailing extension cables everywhere, worrying if I have enough extension cables and worrying about if there will be reliable (if any) power on site.

Anecdotal but I find those tho trample on cordless rotary hammers are either home-owner DIYers who don't need that kind of tool or people who are still hung up on the mindset of NiCd tools from the late 90s.

>> No.1366720

>>1366718
Even for home use on a cinder block house, an sds drill is so much better

>> No.1366934

Corded circular saw vs cordless? Been looking at DeWalt (both with and without cord) or something a bit cheaper like the bosch gks 190. any help is appreciated.

>> No.1367034

Always liked dewalt for battery impact guns, drill, sawzall etc but just left home depot with some m12 n m18 Milwaukee shit everything they have there has some special running with new ones every month and the rep for the store was there he gave me 3 extra batteries, markers, saw blades, bit/drill bits and a cotton tee shirt in large for free.

Check mate yellow/blue/orange/limegreen faggots

>protip: milwaulkees the beez neez

Also anyone get the new anti mexican blue tooth tools that you can shut down, track etc all from an app it so niggers of all colors don't steal your shit.

>> No.1367039

>>1366934
Corded I happen to like basic Makita though I bought the same model that I had for 15 years prior that I only decided to replace because the shaft finally went off a few degrees from abuse it's their bare bones model but I don't like lasers and shit. Corded ensures you don't get a weak cut halfway through cutting something important.

>> No.1367069

>>1367034
>blue tooth tools
>Can disable the tool if it is out of range of a device with the Tool Connect® app, helping to deter theft

so basically it will crap out on you on any jobsite? any welding, cutting going on? enjoy that emf pulse knocking out the connection. phone runs out of charge? your tool is now dead.

>> No.1367128

>>1367069
you can always disable disable the wireless features and use them as regular tools.

>> No.1367129

>>1367069
A little hostile to this technology huh Pedro?

>> No.1367133

>>1366934
depends what you need them for, if weight and mobility is a issue stick with cordless, if long term endurance and raw power is more of a priority go for a nice corded model. the upper end of the current cordless models like Makita's 36v rear handle saw and Dewalt's 60v Flexvolt saws have loads of power and run-time when using big batteries, they can can easily keep up with corded models even when you're cutting timbers all day.

>> No.1367148

>>1367129
How is bluetooth anti Mexican?

>> No.1367160

>>1367148
If Mexican laborers steal your shit you can track the tool like the way you can track a phone, you can get an alert if the tool leaves an area, shut it down from the app to prevent people taking your shit for side work without tell you or at the end of the day and register it to yourself amongst other thangs.

>> No.1367206

Bosch

>> No.1367223

>>1367160
>>1367129

The advertising is intentionally misleading. you believe they are like a car with a sim card and GPS that lets you track its location via satellite and send a remote shutdown command. they have intentionally made it seem like it has a fancy immobiliser function like a fancy car system.

the tracking feature is an inventory tracking feature available in an app. so if you run a company and hire mexicans then they can just use their phone to register that they took it out of the supply shed. however they can also just take it out of the tool store without checking it out then take it home and disable the bluetooth module. so a pen and paper method is still required, write down what you borrow in the log book because you will need someone checking that everything checked out is logged via the app so there is no point to this app. alternatively just put a camera in the tool store, when a tool goes missing at the end of the day you just view the footage to see who registered a return of that model of tool and who you can see taking tools. then you know which employee is stealing from you and fire them.

you dont understand how they work. they dont have a sim card. they work by only working when they are within range of a transponder if you enable that setting via the app. the bluetooth module is however easy to remove and disable.

>>1367128
that's my point. the lockout feature will be shitty and you will end up turning off a feature you paid extra money for. so it is not a useful feature or development.

>> No.1367234

>>1367223
Rome wasn't built in a day and neither was stopping sneaky Mexicans anon but it's a start

>> No.1367236

>>1349677
That doesn't make them identical, but of course if the same parent company makes them they must be identical, which is why all their drills are identical to their grinders and sanders and all parts interchange because the same parent company can only make one product how about you an hero you imbecilic shitball?

See AvE tool reviews and Tool Boss for actual information.

>> No.1367260
File: 66 KB, 988x704, OmegaBrainlet.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1367260

>>1349677

>all products made in a factory are all built to the same quality and specifications no matter what

>> No.1367394

>>1367234

work in a box of concrete and iron
>signal blocked
>tools don't worked

you're a retard son, you would need you tool to be botnet, always trying to find the open wireless in order to get any location, nigger will probably snip the antennas and no longer have a problem. You have to pay extra for lojack, and phone tracking is cause smartphone require some internet, or else you would use dumb phone. Powertool have no reason to connect to the internet, unless you want a tool that require internet connection to even work.

>> No.1367398

>>1367260
>if this was true then all shit would be equal.

>> No.1367406
File: 53 KB, 403x448, 1512250244690.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1367406

>>1367394
>everyone works in concrete and rebar
>everyone can destroy the tools without the boss knowing
>Bluetooth the same as internet

You fucking with me or you really retarded

>> No.1367419

>being a retard
>not understanding Bluetooth is a meme that can get blocked in the work area, rendering your tool to not function.

>everyone can destroy the tools without the boss knowing

When was this ever mentioned?

>Bluetooth the same as internet
>connecting two computers is not internet.

>> No.1367420

https://youtu.be/dGvsHyjBH7c

Makita/Bosch btfo.

>> No.1367423

>>1367420
isn't this faggot just a landscaper?

>> No.1367537

>>1367420
its finally settled

>> No.1367539

Why does Bosch fails so many tests on youtube?

>> No.1367543

How important do you guys think a Hammer Drill function really is on an 18v drill?

>> No.1367548

>>1349484
Rolson

>> No.1367551

>>1367539
dunno, this for example
>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y4BkB9Q52LU
drills are company sponsored and bosch did cheap out on the sample, smaller battery and brushed motor
of course it performs worse on the lifetime test.
But what activated my almonds, reading the description (straight copied from brand website)
>Milwaukee
>unmatched torque of 135 Nm hard (not giving non hammer number)
That number played a big part in the ranking without really proofing it
that's more than a third on the hammer than Bosch advertises its drill with, 100 Nm
!while having a smaller head gearbox and hammer
I dont know where they get these numbers, but the bullshit detector is at the stop
you cant cheat physics and using advertising numbers for a comparison is on par with an unboxing

>> No.1367553

>>1367419
My dad works for blue tooth and says you're a liar

>> No.1367554

>>1367543
if you're only needing to make small and short holes then it would be neat not having to need an additional tool (rotary hammer)

>> No.1367557

>>1349752
b/c of a gimmic that Mr. Big used back in the 90s, you might actually have a collectible.
https://youtu.be/AFE2YKMjs2U?t=911

>> No.1367558

>>1349752
>dropped it out of an airplane
what?

>> No.1367560

>>1367558
Ya whats not to understand ?

>> No.1367567

>>1367560
how does one lose it from an airplane and how could it be recovered as it's interpreted (and implied) as the airplane was in the air

>> No.1367581

>>1367567
He dropped the chuck out of the aeroplane and replaced it as he couldn't recover it.

>> No.1367618
File: 250 KB, 6000x3352, 1513834324849.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1367618

>>1367567
Didnt say the air plane was in flight brainlet not such an intresting statement now.

>> No.1367676
File: 140 KB, 1000x1000, makita-DHP484RTJ-1000x1000.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1367676

How much difference is there between a 1,5 Ah and a 5.0 Ah? Looking to buy the Makita 483/484, but there is such a huge difference in price between the different sets.

>> No.1367684 [DELETED] 

>>1367676
'bout 4.5

>> No.1367685

>>1367676
'bout 3.5

>> No.1367686

>>1367676
3x the battery capacity. Unless you’re using it all day 1.5ah batteries are fine for a drill. 5ah last a long time on a drill but they also weigh more and add some bulk.

Just get the 1.5ah then if you find you need more you can always buy a bigger battery later or just more of the smaller ones.

>> No.1367801

>>1355351
snap-on cordless imapact is only 450 new with 2 batteries charger and bag... can probably get the tool 1 battery and charger for 360ish. well worth it i think, i've had mine 3 years and beat the fuck out of it no problems

>> No.1367852

>>1355351
its not 3/8 but the next step up from >>1355362
this model in Milwaukee's line is the mid torque impact wrench. its not as beefy as the full sized impact but 600ft/lb is no joke.

you can get one now at Home Depot with 2 5.0 batteries and a 9-piece impact socket set for $320.

>> No.1367854

>>1367852
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M18-FUEL-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-1-2-in-Mid-Torque-Impact-Wrench-With-Friction-Ring-Kit-with-Socket-Set-9-Piece-2861-22-49-66-4484/301184648

>> No.1368170
File: 300 KB, 1224x468, .png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1368170

How can anyone else compete?

>> No.1368189

>>1368170
>Believing the shill numbers

>> No.1368197

>>1361091
The thing with hilti is their support. If you break a hilti tool they replace it no questions asked. It's that policy that makes thwm popular with people who require working equipment at all times.

>> No.1368327

>>1368170
It's has the blue tooth to keep the sneaky Mexicans at bay

>> No.1368338
File: 265 KB, 700x590, KC18DBDLGB_NEW_6AHSML.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1368338

triple hammer set is supposedly the best 18V line but also absurdly expensive

>> No.1368753

>>1367553
> inter communication of two devices does not require a computers.
>connecting computers is not what network is, and what the internet is.

>> No.1368894
File: 106 KB, 612x491, 21208937218.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1368894

>>1349484
>browsing makita tools at home depot
>every single tool is made in china

I thought this was a jap company what the fuck happened?

>> No.1368900

>>1368894
every tool is made in china nowadays

>> No.1368939

>>1368894
Made in Japan>Bulgaria>China by price and quality
makita still made in Japan just don't look at cheapest models

>> No.1369027

>>1368894
Bought a makita saw last week that was made in the UK.

Generally speaking, the cheapest of any brands catalogue is going to be made in China.

>> No.1369035

>>1368338
>triple hammer set is supposedly the best 18V

It was for about 5 minutes then makita dropped the TD171 which blows it out the water.

>> No.1369058
File: 50 KB, 1024x576, 1512701025173m.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1369058

>>1368753

>> No.1369118

>>1369035
>blows it out the water
proofs?

>> No.1369136

>>1369118
https://www.instagram.com/p/BfWgVTDhFj7/

There's quite a few videos on the net now if you have a look but the Milwaukee fuel and latest DeWalt are outperforming the triple hammer.

The new. 36v version of the Hitachi is hard to beat by any but you need their new multivolt batteries.

>> No.1369376

>>1369136
the triple hammer isnt what it used to be, its main advantage over other brushless impact drivers was the unique hammer and anvil set-up that gave it 4000 IPM plus the adjustable speeds and self-tapping screw mode. these days most impacts have auto-drive settings for specialty screws now and even Milwaukee's little Gen 2 M12 Fuel Impact Driver is running at 4000 IPM with just two spokes on its anvil.

>> No.1370258
File: 190 KB, 1000x1000, 716nKZdQVmL._SL1000_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1370258

Thinking about getting this DeWalt kit from ebay for about $200. Anybody used these models before? It's the DCK283D2 kit with DCD791 drill and DCF887 impact driver. Reviews seem generally favorable.

Also is there anything I'm missing buying it from ebay? There's a number of sellers offering it new for $50 to $60 less than local stores or Amazon. They aren't bootlegs or anything?

>> No.1370369

>>1370258
ebay sellers often don't have the overheads of local stores and amazon is just a greedy company.

It's not a bad kit, down to preference Ive found them to be far from ideal in terms of power and ergonomics but for the money you can't go wrong.