/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1333966
Whats the story on the 1911? Resin printed?

Also a training model or a suicide kit?

>>1333966
camera was shit but prints + glowstick sauce is cool

I replaced a part in my 3D printer and it works again. I'm making a ocarina that works. Hopefully 20% infill is good enough.

It plays, but I need to find a finger guide so I can play correctly. I might improve the guys design and make it play more notes instead of just the D Major scale.

I'm building a 6 cubic foot printer that has 4 heads. I need to mod the build plate to be heated, but it should work out ok for PLA. Ordered 4 volcano clones with 1.2 mm nozzles off of Amazon at 20 bucks a pop, but they seem to have some pretty decent reviews. I've got a CR-10 coming today that I'll probably mod to be my medium resoultion machine, and I'll eventually be purchasing a SLA machine for model making. I don't know what I'll do with all of this equipment, but it should be fun.

>>1334159
Picture related.

What do you guys think about this design? Looks pretty solid to me, i really like the inclusion of the linear rails, i've thought about building it, of course i'll have to make the vertical parts of the box, the bottom horizontal parts and the z-axis and so on but they aren't all that complicated.
What kind of print quality should i be expecting? Depends on my motherboard and stepper drivers and so on?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2138286

>>1334198
*mainboard

>>1334198
>What kind of print quality should i be expecting?

Professional grade if you manage to adjust the belts to have exactly the same tension, or else any print that is a bit larger or that is a bit away from the middle of the heatbed will become skewed/crooked

I'm printing parts for a guy's Prusa i3 clone and like it how all of them print without support. I think I'll build one in a near future.

>>1334201
>print without support
I guess that's to be expected since it was designed to be printed, still pretty cool.

>>1334201
How should i make sure that they have the same tension? A spring balance and a ruler?

I picked up a used 3D printer from someone, cheap. It looks a lot like picrelated. I don't have any way to contact the seller any more since he was leaving the country to go home.

Can anyone tell me how to figure out what software I need, say on a RasPi, to get it running? Do I just plug it into OctoPi and it'll automatically work, or do I have to configure things?

I changed my old a4988s for tmc 2100s and I noticed my motors heat a lot more. They are 2A nominal (yes I know it's too much for those little tmcs) and I'm running them at 1.5A (the max the poti on the drivers will go). With my old ones, I was running them at 2A and they were warm but not hot enough so that I could keep my hand on it, unlike now. Is this normal (better waveform, higher frequency) or am I missing something ?

>>1334230
With a belt tensioner
Or tune it like a bass string if you have perfect pitch

>>1334279
more or less plug it into octopi if its an arduino based board, might take some tweaking though.
if there was any indication of a brand, that would help.

>>1334390
Thanks; there's nothing on the bord that I can find to identify it. I guess I'll try it, I just don't want it to explode or catch on fire or whatever.

>>1334451
Post a picture of the mainboard.

I have $325 in amazon funbux and I want to get into 3d printing.

Are there good quality options for me? Should I use cash alongside my funbux to get more quality printing?

I want to build impellers. I am really fascinated with compressors and similar mechanisms. Knowing this, what is the right printer for me?

>>1334198

"Print quality" is a complicated thing to judge as it depends on multiple factors. Any motion platform can produce excellent results if it's built right.

I just got the Prusa i3 mk2 kit. How long until I can print a friend? Has anyone printed a partner for themselves?

First 1 meter long wing half has been completed! now i've only got to build the other one and add the coverings and my glider wings are complete.

>>1334490
Cr-10 or the Cr-10s. It's cthe darling of the 3d printed world, and for good reason.

>>1334513
what's the difference between the 10 and the 10s?

304

>>1334513
Wanhao duplicators/monoprice selects are much better, fuck off banggood shill


The only reason idiots on YouTube say cr10s are good is because banggood sent out a ton of them for free, no other reason. The frames are shit

>>1334570
original asking guy here. Can you give me another option then?

>>1334578
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Maker-Select-3D-Printer/dp/B018GZBC3Y/

It has the same electronics and build envelope with a better frame

>>1334578
There is also the Di Vinci Jr. 3D printer, but you are stuck with using proprietary spools of PLA. You could probably hack it so you could use any PLA filament you want, but you'll void the warranty.

>>1334578
https://www.amazon.com/XYZprinting-Vinci-Jr-1-0-Printer/dp/B00V3J8JEG/

Comes with filament, but you'll end up needing more.

>>1334578
bigbox or a flsun kit and a new controller board.

>>1334610
>>1334608
Kill yourself for ever recommending a printer with proprietary filament, and a proprietary slicer that is spyware and phones home with the ability to remotely brick your printer if you try to "hack" it

>>1334624
this

Finally finished my shitty ass closet enclosure for my shitty ass printer, hopefully i can now sleep while it's running, and maybe even i'll save a few watts of electricity.

>>1334709
And here's it closed, one string attaching it to the left corner and keeping the top right corner in place is one of those xy-blocks superglued to the wall, remember kids, don't let any filament go to waste!

>>1334711
Man why does 4chan flip all of my vertical images?

The last parts, the arm fins, are printing now, then I fully enter sanding hell

>>1334624
But you can flash the firmware right? There are posts of people unbricking their devices and using better slicer software.

>>1334744
If the printer was of the utmost quality for the price and the only drawback was it being proprietary then it might be worth jumping through hoops.

But its not, its of the same quality or worse than other similarly priced printers. Its not easily repaired with normal 3d printer parts, it doesnt have a the gigantic support and userbase that repraps do.

There is NO reason at all to buy this printer at its price point with all its drawbacks.

>>1334744
the di vinci line of printers have only brought rage to the people i know that have them.
The Jr is one of the worst printers i've ever had the misfortune of using, modded or not.

it took less than 100 printing hours for the thing to start falling apart. wires breaking, boards failing, and overall mediocre print quality.
trying to diagnose them was a pain, and the forums are worse than useless.

i'd sooner buy a 3d printer from a white van, given the option.

>>1334015
Did you just add the inside of a glowstick to the print?

>>1334562
Is that an airsoft gun? Explain please

Hey guys I'm not sure if this is where I should post but I got a printbot simple metal with heated bed
A few months ago now it started to act up. It seems like the x axis's zero or home point is not set correctly I've adjusted the x a bunch but nothing works I've also tried to flash the board but no luck it still will just attempt to go past where the arm is able to. Producing the worst grinding sound in the world. Anyone have any idea what could be causing it?

>>1334759

Ridiculously overpowered Nerf

My first 3D printet arrives today.
I plan to use it for 3d pronting figures or more like garage kits of my sculpts with manual finishing (fillers, sandpapee, files etc).

The printer is Creality Ender 2.
What are some cool essential things to do with a printer, aside from printing the upgraded fan duckt that will also cool the part not only the hot end?

Also I was stupid and greedy and instead of ordering one big spool of filament I ordered 20 10meter spools of filament because I was stupid and it was cheap.

How much can I print from one 10M filament roll? Will it be enough for things like Benchy, Marvin, gear cube etc?

>>1334757
>tfw the only full-color FDM printer out now is by Da Vinci and they probably patented the method up the ass

>>1334846
1 it's shit
2 painting isn't any hard

>>1334775
Check your pulleys

>>1334856

Maybe if you're doing solid colours... try painting a cube with a mona lisa texture on each side.

>>1334856
>2 painting isn't any hard
Yes it is, it takes a lot of practice just to do a half assed job

>>1334835
>How much can I print from one 10M filament roll? Will it be enough for things like Benchy, Marvin, gear cube etc?

It's easy to find out: install a slicer, load your STL files, slice and it will say how many meters of filament the job will use. Pic related uses 3.75 M, for example. They're parts for a 3d printer hotend mount. 10m doesn't sound like much but it's enough for a shit load of benchies. You also won't be able to use all of the 10m because your printer has a bowden extruder.

>>1334759
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2376150

>>1334758
yep, although I separated the two parts and dipped twice to keep glass from getting everywhere

which slicer are useable?
started with cura but want to see if i find some more

>>1334913
Pirate Simplify3D
Its a pretty good slicer, but dont give those cocksuckers a single penny

>>1334914
What advantages does it have over the likes of Cura for example?

>>1334970
Cura went from a decent slicer to dog shit handholding UI, and it STILL cant do supports right

Simplify3Ds claim to fame is how good their auto support function is. I find its toolpaths are pretty on point too.

>>1334970
Far greater control over printing parameters, finer control over part orientation, customizable supports, better fill algorithms, more printer interface/control options

It's worth like $30 absolutely but they charge $150 so hop over to TPB

>>1334914
This, I bought it and still end up using Slic3r because S3D randomly decides to not work without internet connection for its DRM. If you pirate it you actually get a better product.

i have seen alot of advertising for the prusa i3 mk3, is it really that good? or is it better to have dual extruder?

>>1334986
thats why pirate version is better.
people forget drm-free media is better than buying

i have been using cura cuz plugins for duet tho

>>1334991
>is it really that good?

No, its overpriced

>>1334914
Where can i pirate it?

>>1335045
/t/it or request it

It's nearing completion! 2 meter wingspan, 44mm chord, 4.4mm thickness and and aspect ratio of somewhere around 46, i can't wait to see how it flies!

Are there any decent CAD packages for Linux that do motion simulation?

So Ender 2 just arrived and this is my first 3d print ever.

Marvin clearly doesnt feel good today.
I noticed 2 issues with the printer:
1 the X belt wasnt tight enough
2 the Z rollers dont sit well on the rail.
It's like 2 rollers make a contact with the rail and the 3rd one is free and the whole arm wobbles freely if I touch it.

How do I deal with that?

Also can I control the printer over USB without plughing the SD card back and forth?

>>1335056
freecad and openscad, approved by our lord and saviour

>>1335096

How do I do motion simulation in freecad?

Does anyone have any experience with cyclocopters? I saw an article about them and wanted to try printing one. I'm still trying to figure out how to isolate the pitch mechanism from the rotation of the rotor.

>>1335084
>It's like 2 rollers make a contact with the rail and the 3rd one is free and the whole arm wobbles freely if I touch it.
>How do I deal with that?

With v-slots like that there's usually an excentric spacer which you can turn to preload the v-wheel against the extrusion, if the Ender 2 is any good there should be one which you can turn with a 10mm wrench

It looks like pic related

If there's no such thing then you're fucked buddy

>>1335102
>Does anyone have any experience with cyclocopters?

Does _anyone_? Haven't there only been like 2 or 3 design that actually flew?

>>1335084
Go to Thingiverse and search for Tronxy X1 and you'll see that the Tronxy had similar issues and people developed printable fixes for it, and while you're there grab a few of those printable belt tensioners.

>>1335182
>i want a linear rail with the least possible contact surface to support working loads that will wear immediately
>say no more senpai

>>1334570
>The frames are shit
People make good prints with even shittier lasercut MDF frames

CR10 is a good printer to have the shit modded out of it, i.e: adding linear rails that cost more than the entire machine and a diamond hotend

I wouldn't buy it because it uses up too much space, but I can see the point of having one or a few

>>1335224
They work well for routers
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HIS3rHR6zhg

>>1334562
305

>>1335188
As far as my research has shown, many people have made them since as early as 2013. Some have been very big petrol engine ones (the size of a shopping trolley), and the most well known example is some autist attempt to make it super super light (MIT?). I don't believe being super light is required.

>>1335096
python ;)

>>1335096
how libre is reprap and most of these open source printers?
I never have really thought about it

>>1335182
>>1335204
Ender 2 has no eccentrics so apparently I will have to try and print some shit first and then I will get my eccentrics CNC milled.

>>1335096
Go back to /g/ autist

>>1335388

They're licensed as GPL or CERN OHL usually.

My ender 2 has a mini USB port.
Can I connect and control it from my PC?
If so how?

How's the Anet A6? I could get one second hand for 100€ including 50m of material.

>>1335052
>i can't wait to see how it flies!

>>1334718
That looks really good. Do you plan on filling in the neck with Bondo?

>>1335464
If it's a crewlity machine then the rollers can be adjusted. Look up a YouTube video on the cr10 for how to adjust the rollers. As for the belt, there are tensioners you can get on Amazon that are decent and work universally, but you can always just cut the ziptie on the current belt and shorten the belt length while enlarging the loop that goes around the little block that's attached to the gantry.

Any reason not to use these things and make myself a hella rigid and fine machine? They're $20 a pop.

>>1335898
*use these things for all of my axises

>>1335898
you can save 60-40 bucks and just increase z steps with (cheaper) .9 degree motors @full/ 1/2step mode or a 24 volt system at full micro stepping

>>1335900
save 80-140$ and not be an embarrassment with the slowest printer in town.

I am looking for a small camera to build a frame around for a indoor FPV recording on a pair of glasses.
I am sitting 90% of the time and just want a hands free way of recording my lab bench in an area the size of a walk-in closet, so I think something like the snapchat spectacles but could be wired in and can focus on whats right in front of me.

I think a usb "endoscope" camera is a univesal size of attachment and could be mounted google glasses style or have a wide fov lens and be neck mounted.
the problem is focus and if there would be a better way. the scopes are only 15 bucks (or less) but I am planning on spending 50-130 (already have a 125$ visa I need to spend) for this so dont have any regrets buying a shitty camera/ just destroying a snapchat spectacles if I can make it work without the app.

>>1335902
But dude think of how precise it could be!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9pZyN5D0a4Y

With a sufficiently rigid frame to go with them you can only imagine how crazy good print quality you could manage.

>>1335919
As long as you realize fdm printing has a limit no mater how good the printer. More of a diminishing returns issue.

>>1335898

Mass, mostly.

You're going to add a lot of rotational inertia with the ball screw, and a significant bit of mass on the print head with the nut. You CAN overcome that issue just by using ridiculously overpowered motors, more along the lines of the 800oz/in and larger ones you often find on DIY CNC routers. But then, I'm not sure if you'd really see enough of an advantage to justify the increased power usage, higher cost of the screws, motors, and heavier frame, and the increased noise.

Honestly, in my opinion, you're better off making the head as light as you possibly can and using an extra-wide belt. Acceleration maximization and vibration minimization are paramount to the speed and quality of a print. To that end, you want a heavy, rigid frame, a light print head, and a belt with minimal stretch.

This applies to every kind of printer, by the way. Cartesian, delta, or those weird 4-bar linkage printers that I don't even know saw any commercial realization.

Why the shit won't Cura let me go over 0.35mm layer height?

I can't find anything relating to a restriction on this value, either within the program itself or a Google.

Trying to set up for a larger nozzle.

>>1335927
Alright you got me there, i'm just a poor man wishing for an SLA machine.
But anyway, i do really wonder what the absolute ultimate quality is for an fdm machine, i'm talking 0.1mm gem nozzle, 0.25mm layer height or lower, ball screws for all axises, and a super rigid frame that is bolted to a 1000 kg piece of steel.

>>1335940
Yeah you're most probably right, it's just that there's something oh so fascinating about the absolute hardness and precision of a ball screw.

>>1335951
Does it work with a multiple of 0.04mm that is closest to 0.35mm?

>>1335959
>the absolute hardness

>>1335973

Nope. Nothing over 0.35mm. No multiples of 0.35, 0.2, or 0.4.

Should mention I'm using 3.2.1

I seem to be the only one having this issue, as I can't find anything even close to an issue similar to hard-limited layer heights. I'm not sure if it's just some fluke with my setup or I'm just retarded somehow.

>>1335988
What do you have your nozzle size set as?

>>1335998

Doesn't matter what I set it as. 0.4, 0.8, 1.0, still won't go over 0.35. Tried restarting after changing the nozzle size, no dice.

to the guy who wanted a cheaper alternative for a really nice 3s bit board. I found a nice smothieware board that seems to be a good deal at 1/2 the cost of a duet.

still doesn't have a M4, on board drivers, and reprapfirmware, but does look skookum af and allows for tmc and external drivers to be run at high speed while keeping accuracy.

essentially you are paying 20-40$ more than a smoothie clone for quality parts and the best micro stepping accuracy possible/really needed for most 3d printers.
Cohesion3D Mini: http://cohesion3d.com/cohesion3d-mini/

that DICE printer thing from the last thread brought me on an adventure into the guy's air brush nozzle adapters and his google plus.
I know he used the mini to get those high speeds, but looking though the change log on it and a 2 year old youtube video I also found the original controller board (a AZSMZ-mini) he used.

I after looking around now the AZSMZ-mini is a bit old and has a few problems, but is 30$ less and works fine for a coreXY gantry (the original designer of my printer gantry still uses one) but I still think the Cohesion3D would be better unless you have to buy new drivers

HAHAHA the cunt with the implants is getting exposed by vice

>>1335526
Please help

Is the nozzle supposed to touch the print or not? Mine does and loudly rattles when traveling above the supports like RRRAAAACCKK when the tip of the nozzle is scraping on top of the infil or support.
This seem to be independent from the bed level.

Also all my Marvins get the same defects to a different degree
>the lower layers of his ears kinda flow down and slightly distort
>Marvin's ass alway gets curled
When I looked at it it seems like the ass layers are loose and get moved buy the nozzle until there's more layers on top of them, that results in a less tthan perfect ass surface.
>always curled blobs on the upper-left edge of his face

I encounter these defect on my every print, how do I refine them?

My software is Cura, the printer is Ender 2 with a printed fan duct, printing at 190C 40mm/s

>>1335951
0.32 is maximum value. Cura 3.2 is broken as fuck.

>>1336100
You can enable z hop in the slicer to keep it from rubbing against the print, but it seems like this is intentional

Is there anything special about printing with smaller nozzles?

Will a regular bowden extruder handle the 0.2 nozzle?
What about the temps and cooling?

I plan on printing figurines so I wanna squeeze the toppest kekkest auality out of my bydget printer.

>>1336137
They clog more often.

I feel like nozzle clogs are a myth. Whenever I had a "clog" it always turned out to be heat creep/ plastic partially melting just above the heat break.
Eventually I just used a 50mm radial fan to cool the heatsink and got extruder gears with grooves to better grip the filament.
Never had a problem since then. Also I have the first layer print at 240c with PLA or higher sometimes.

>>1336000
Oh well that's a bit odd, well Cura ain't the best slicer out there anyway, try to find a pirated version of Simplify3d and share a link with me as well if you manage to do that.

>>1336010
Thanks for all the info, i'll definitely consider using that Mini board for my next build.

>>1336137
I'm actually in the same situation as you, i bought some 0.2mm's for my Tronxy X1, i haven't had time to test them yet though, i guess it's kinda dumb to try to squeeze so much out of something so cheap but eh whatever.

>>1336163
Yeah clogs aren't really all that common if you've got everything properly set up. For me though those damn chinamen assembled my hotend improperly and it clogged real bad, after i disassembled it and burned all of that properly fucked up plastic out of there the thing has been running like a champ.

>>1336100
Start with bed leveling, steps per mm on your motors, and then filament diameter/cold end extruder gears being dirty. From there, take a look at your bed and cooling settings. Depending on the material you're using, it could be that your overhangs are cooling too quickly, and curling upward. If your bed adhesions isn't any good, this will exacerbate the issue due to the base not having a secure connection to the bed. If you print a raft underneath your model and all of your issues dissapear, it's likely to be bed adhesion/cooling issues.

>>1336137

start by getting more topkek auality out of you're bydget keyboard

>>1335604
Not Bondo but ABS+acetone sludge. It welds the pieces together and can then be sanded mostly flush. Any leftover seam defects can be filled with spot putty

My company is using a Cel Robox printer for prototyping. We're trying to test making things out of some off brand filaments. is there any way to get around there faggy proprietary smart spools?

>>1336112
No it's not, I printed something with 0.4mm layer height a few days ago, but I had to set the nozzle width to 0.8mm (and use an actual 0.8mm nozzle)

>>1336292
Very nice. I look forward to seeing the finished product. Seeing that guy makes me want to print a Darkrai.

Fugg im stug on bridge :DDD

>>1336298
You can use third party but it voids the warranty.

>>1336292
Senpai teach me please.
I'm going for picrelated.
What do I use to fill the layering gaps? how thin do I print the layers?
What materials abd techniques?

Tell me how are you working on your sculpture.

>>1336710
>I'm going for picrelated

>>1336711
What are you talking about dude? Layering gaps? How thin layers? You're talking about layer height, right? If so i suggest 0.1mm for figurines. Also with a model like that i would suggest printing the whole thing upside down, i printed that model in the thread picture upside down and it needed almost no supports. Also, set your infill pretty high for high rigidity which helps while printing and after printing for removing supports.

>>1336711
>>1336993
Oh and also, that seems like a fairly ok model, wanna share it? I'll print it as well and we can compare our results.

>>1336695
fugg. that's what I thought. can you roll 3rd party filaments onto old smartrolls?

>>1337045
when I was researching cel robox, you can reuse smartrolls and even program their chips to show your custom filaments. I bought CR-10 at the end, robox was very restrictive for me.

>>1337058
does that void the warranty as well?

>>1337061
it shouldn't iirc, they provide the tools for programming the spools.

>>1336994
It's a WIP, i'll share when it's finished.

>>1336710
I split the model up into pieces that 1) made sense anatomically, 2) would conserve support material, and 3) would print in about 9-10 hours so I could do one piece at night and start another one before work. Most of the pieces are at 0% infill, .1mm layer height, and 1.2mm thickness (4 perimeters). The head is at 20% infill to support the interior of the mouth and the arms are at 65% infill for strength. I used gray ABS and Simplify3D for everything.

I sanded the pieces a good deal first. For the legs and feet, I wanted them to be heavy so I used a soldering iron to make a hole in those parts and filled them with a heavy plaster (Durham's Water Putty). You can use plain resin or Rondo but I don't have enough ventilation for that and Durham's is far cheaper.

I am going to use heated acetone vapor in a crock pot to smooth out the head because I really don't want to break of the teeth trying to sand the tongue. I can go into detail with that if you are thinking of using ABS.

The torso pieces needed to be strong but not as heavy as the legs so those have some epoxy resin slushed around the inside for strength.

To put things together, I glopped on ABS/acetone sludge on the faces of the minor pieces - the feet to the legs, the fins to the arms, and the upper torso/lower torso/proximal tail/distal tail parts. I'm going to be making molds of the parts otherwise I would have just attached everything together in one go.

>>1337165
After the acetone sludge dried, I sanded all the seams and used Bondo spot putty (the red stuff) to fill low spots, pin holes, and other defects. I sprayed on some high-build filler primer after that and did more sanding. At this point I need to go buy some oil-based clay and actually make the silicone molds of the pieces. I can cast a copy of the parts and make resin copies of this beast and probably sell enough to pay off my printer.

Once the molds are made I'll attach the rest of the pieces together and do more filling/sanding/priming/sanding. Eventually I'll get to a last coat of white primer and then start painting. I made sure to define all the details in the 3D file so I don't have to guess where to put them once painting starts.

I'm a novice at painting with an airbrush but Pokemon in general don't have super complex color schemes so I think I'll manage. I'll definitely need to practice if I want to try anything like shading or a sharkskin texture.

What filament would you guys suggest especially for printing figurines? Currently i'm restricted to pla but other than that i don't really know anything other than that it would have to be very uniform in thickness and leave a good surface for figurines and so on, should it be matte or glossy? i simply do not know, what about color? gray and white are ones i see often, i suppose a good thing about white would be that you can easily paint over it and when you snap off supports you aren't left with ugly white spots with stretched plastic since it's all white.

What do you use currently? Why? What do you prefer? What brands are the best? Also, what temperature, nozzle size and so on have you found out to work best for your plastic? i know temperature can have a quite the interesting effect on the surface finish for example.

>>1337165
Thanks bruh

>>1334554
10s has filament out detector so you can reload a spool and carry on the job without scrapping 20 hours work. Something about better Z axis leadscrews and it has a newer control board. It's only £35 more than the 10 when you find some gearbest vouchers.

>>1337067
Success! just printed a low res benchy using hemp filament set to the robox 'polywood PLA' preprogrammed settings. it turned out pretty nicely

>>1337165
Did you model that yourself in Maya or did you just take the garchono model from Pokken and rig it?

Can someone please explain some power rating stuff to me. I'm going to use a PSU with 18 AWG wire to power a 3d printer with an heated tip, hot bed, 1 z-axis motor, 2 x-axis motors and 2 y-axis motors. I'm making the MPCNC if that helps explain stuff.
The power supply is 400 W so can provide more than 30 A at 12 V. 18 AWG wire is supposed to only handle between 5 - 7 A from what I've found so I'm trying to figure out how many of the 12 V wires I need to use for each terminal on Ramps.
I might be wrong but I estimated for 12 V the following currents:
heated bed: 6 A
Hot End: 2.67 A
5 axis motors: 5 A
extruder motor: 1 A
fans: <1 A

To be on the safe side should I just have 2 wires going to the 5 x,y,z motors and 3 going to the peripherals, extruder and heating elements? It seems like overkill compared to what others use but ratings of 5 A for 18 AWG wire makes me think it could be a problem.

>>1337489
pls halp

>>1337489
Look at any printer and see what wires they are using. I cant into AWG, 1mm diameter for the bed and heater, 0.5mm diameter for anything else should be fine. These are solid diameters, you must use stranded wires because they are easier to guide, so you need to have an equal cross-sectional area for the stranded wires.

Why do h-bot printers get so much h8? It seems like they work perfectly if you can get quality parts for the gantry

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3msxRl1rPUw

>>1337584
I'm sure even those weird two jointed arm style printers work perfectly well with quality materials.

>>1337584
sure, but if you use the same quality parts on another design it works even better without any downsides.

Okay so i finally got around to attaching a 0.2mm nozzle on my Tronxy X1 and i've gotta say i'm fairly satisfied. This one is a pretty easy print but still, it came out real nice. I've already ordered some of those tmc2130 stepper drivers that all the cool kids have for my x and y steppers. I'm also considering replacing all of my rubber rollers with linear rails, i don't have the money for real Hiwin rails, any suggestions on some alternatives?

>>1337724
oh and btw that whole thing is only 5cm in height

>>1337670
>sure, but if you use the same quality parts on another design it works even better without any downsides.

There are always downsides, even if Corexy doesn't experience the racking phenomenon one belt slowly loosing tension is enough to make it not print square anymore

Plus, if it's good enough for Stratasys it's probably good enough for me

>>1337724
>i don't have the money for real Hiwin rails, any suggestions on some alternatives?

Chiwin rails should last a while, especially in an application where there won't even be real loads. Buy a pack of 100 sliding M3 nuts and MGN12 rails of appropriate lenghts, print some joining parts and that's it. I was going to do this until I changed my mind for the 100th time and decided to use my rails for an h-bot instead

>>1337735
>even if Corexy doesn't experience
I never mentioned Corexy.
>if it's good enough for Stratasys it's probably good enough for me
remember when Stratasys bough Makerbot?

>>1335084
>>1335182
>>1335204
>>1335607

I just fixed Z wobble on Ender 2.
>had massive Z wobble
>asked dad to machine 2 eccentric spacers and drill a 5mm hole to 7.2mm hole to fit the eccentric spacers
>put the printer back together
>adjust the spacers
>Nice and stiff no wobble whatsoever

However after I disassembled and reassembled my printer I started getting consistend layer shifts over X axis, Y and Z work WONDERFULLY, no ringing, no ghosting just fucking great and smooth surfaces but the X axis shift like a bitch all the time.

What should I look into?
Can it be anything other than belt and roller tension? It feels rolling kinda nice and smooth.

Could it be related to the fact I uninstalled and reinstalled the motor and may have not fixed it on right?

Guys my sister was using my 3D printer to print a dildo. She did it after I told her jokingly that I had a few dildo models on my computer. What I didn't tell her is I had only one and it was modeled after my own dick. What do I do!!!!

>>1337761

Take photos of her disappointment.

And pain if she's not using a flexible filament

>>1337751
Check the belt and see if it's centered on the roller. Lots of people have issues with the x axis shifting or ringing, so they have to put a washer on the bolt that holds the bearing in place to center up the belt.

>>1337741
>I never mentioned Corexy.
Corexy is usually what people refer to when they say anything against h-bot, so I assumed that was what you meant.

>remember when Stratasys bough Makerbot?
5th gen replicator may have all sorts of issues with extrusion and software, but the xy movement is solid. It's also an h-bot.

>>1337751
bruh print some of dem belt tighteners, tighten your belts and see if you are still experiencing this issue

>>1337804
I will do it later but right now I'm sure as fuck the tension is ok, and the rollers arent too tight either.

I re-adjust the belt again and got a print more fucked up than before so I guess I gotta go with what this guys says >>1337780 and see if it helps.

>>1337782
>solid
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/makerbot-users/5kNA1POgC6A/Q1XMz5gBBwAJ

>>1337819
They just used an undersized bearing
I'm going with F625zz's

Does this trigger you?

>>1337858
What happened and how?

>>1337858
I'm not triggered but I'm curious

>>1337751
>>1337780
>>1337804
Holy shit the belts are such a bitch.
Fucking around for hours and cant fix it.

Are there some kind of narrower belts that would have more clearance with the rail and certainly not touch it?

Heya 3dpg. Wanhao i3 plus, hooked up to pc via usb onto S3D, please refer to attached screenies of settings. 60C bed temp, 200C extrusion temp.

The majority of my prints are done without supports and my models reflect this preference. So far my prints have been good until rather recently. 0.4mm nozzle has had roughly 6mo of on and off work, not under or over extruding and my prints are to size. Printing fresh PLA. I have two issues:

1) Some parts of some prints suddenly underextrude and cause bad layer adhesion, bad fill and thus bad structural integrity. The nozzle is still good and my extruder gear is fine - no grinding or loosening at all. This problem is persists through prints and is triggered by support structures. Without supports, very rarely does it shit over a layer. The problem seems to persist among prints requiring support structure.

My initial thoughts were along the lines of having the retraction bug out and not push out the retracted distance - I have turned off retraction and it did not solve the problem. I have turned temp up to 230 with no appreciable result. Any of you had this problem or know of its causes?


2) I have a starting script of squeezing out filament to prime the nozzle at the beginning of the print. Every now and then, instead of extruder rotating such that it extrudes, it retracts filament during this time.

While not a huge issue, it's just a bit annoying. Any of you had this problem or know of its causes?


On another update, jellyfish cast soonish. I have just received a probe thermometer and will attempt to record temperatures ideal for pouring.

>>1337934
This is an example print, I was unable to focus on the light properly and obtain a good image. There are striations on some layers. This did not have any support structure. Changing print speed did nothing within the entirety of February.

>>1337879
>>1337920
>dude adds a heater to cetus' build platform
>builds his own temperature controller
>runs the printer on 24v rather than 19.1v
>works just fine for hours, until his temperature controller pops

How do you price 3d printing for others?

materials + hourly rate for printing + hourly rate for finishing

Send help.
I retightened, losened, adjusted the belts a dozen times, read that it might be a grub screw, checked that it was tight AF, discovered a tiny spec of dirt on the wheel and thought thst was it but no it wasnt. I fucked around with speed acceleration and Jerk - nope, all the same shit.

What can it possibly even be?
The shifts look very consistent in relation to Z axis.

>>1337932
Post pictures, having the belts slightly touch the rails shouldn't be an issue.

>>1337988
lmao dude your shit is fucked, i though that the ender was supposed to be a high quality copy of the Tronxy X1, but my tronxy prints fucking great.

>>1337936
so it wasn't the cetus it was the temp controller he made

>>1338021
https://youtu.be/5JZ6yT_WM58?t=88

>>1337936
>>1337858
oi, don't talk shit about my nigga marco

>>1338030
the ES121 is shit.

he is a shill for china

>>1337988
Ok, a few things. If you have a z axis with an acme thread, make sure the coupler grub screws that secures the felxible coupling to the motor stem are tight and the metal housing on the x axis that guides the rod is tightened. After that, check to if the issue is due to the slicer. Download repetier or some other slicer and do a test print. If that works, then you know it's cura and not you.

Thirdly, if none of that works, then you will likely have to adjust your stepper motor driver current. You'd have to take apart your controller.box and get to the board, but it's just a little screw that you turn clockwise or counterclockwise to change voltage. Your issue may either be that there's TOO much voltage, which is causing your driver to overheat and shutdown, or there's not enough, meaning your motor skips.

If none of that works, then it's probably a pulley/gear issue, in that the pulley is slipping on the gear teeth due to fucked up rubber.

>>1337489
You don't have to guesstimate the current if you have part numbers. Check the labels or data sheets. The wire should also rate the current on the insulation itself.

>>1337724
Man i can't wait for those new stepper drivers, my bro Augustus here lookin' like a goddamn reptilian, i hope those 250 or so positions between steps or whatever will fix him right up.

>>1338033
he should be able to quite easily notice if his stepper is missing steps shouldn't he?

>>1338031
nobody cares about a goddamn screwdriver, it's quite obvious by now that he's keeping it up just as a joke

>>1338069
Not necessarily. You have to listen for it and watch the printer when it's going, but without being there I can only offer a list of possible solutions based off of the given symptoms. From the pictures it's most likely a mechanical or slicer issue, as the layers seem to shift in the same place every time, but you never know.

>>1338073
yeah such a repeatable problrm ought to be quite easy to fix
>>1338067
and here's a picture with a bit better lighting

>>1338031
Just because someone was paid to shill something doesnt make it shit
The screwdriver is pretty great

How else is BangGood going to advertise? Most people dont buy shit from them in the first place and you think of them as a marketplace not a manufacturer

>>1337988
>>1338006
>>1338033

Crazy shit.
It looks like the layer shifting was somehow related to the slack the rollers had on the rails.
>losen the rollers giving machine a tiny little bit of wobble
>BOOM ITWORKS PERFECTLY
What the fuck?
the rollers were rolling smoothly and weren't hard pressed into the rail, but the moment I gave them a tinylittle wiggle room it started printing perfectly.

>>1337972
Im not a jew so i print for free.
Also 99% of the time you wont be able to sell prints.

>>1338164
Usually it's the opposite case with rails and pulleys, but that's not entirely unheard of, just rare. Glad you got it working, Anon.

>Bought CR-10S
>Spent my entire afternoon carefully making sure every bolt was tight and every roller gripping perfectly
>Control box is completely dead

It's doubly annoying as the glass and build plate were completely flat, which I understand can be a problem. I returned it for a refund (fulfilled by Amazon but Chinese seller so parts would have taken ages to arrive) but now I'm not sure if I should order another one from a supplier in my country (to facilitate faster warranty claims) or look at another printer.

>>1338209

You could just have ordered a cheap ass ramps and PSU rather than go through the trouble of returning it


Also, H-bot design is basically done, I'm going to mill it out of PEAD to see how it performs and then order longer MGN rail for X axis ( I have one that is 100mm too short) and a proper aluminum plate

>>1338209
>Control box is completely dead
Define dead. It could have been a simple loose connection or they'd forgotten to put the fuse in the power connector socket.

>>1338308
Do you plan on reinforcing those corners?
I've had problems with weak corners on extrusion frames in the past.

>>1338209
>CR-10S
Amazon says $600 - why not get a Prusa at that point? Cost is almost the same, IIRC, but quality is great.

>>1338326
Go away Josef

>>1338332
I guess I'll sit here enjoying my printer which hasn't had a single fault in 3 years while I watch other people struggle with warped beds, fried electronics, extrusion issues, and mis-stepping steppers.

Oh well.

>>1338334
I guess ill join you sitting here next to a printer having 4 times the build volume.

>>1338325
It doesn't show in the render but I have a lot of corner connectors in each corner. The main challenge will be building it square enough for the rails to not bind

>>1338339
How about this

>git cr-10
>order linear rails from Misumi and a second leadscrew and nut
>order einsy rambo
>put everything together
>enjoy printer that will be more accurate than anything else on the market

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VjhWu9qpSKg

Please help! I've change my crappy m5 threaded rod to nice new t5 and can't account for the 0.8mm to 1mm thread pitch change.

Downloaded the firmware files for my printer and changed configuration.h file and compiled to board. In S3D using the M501 command the printer confirms the Z Steps per mm as being 3600 (previous was 4000). The problem is that there is no difference in height when printing test prints, is there something else I need to change?

>>1338422
Don't you need to load the default values and then save them to EEPROM?

Here's the same b2 model that i printed in the last thread with a 0.4mm nozzle but this time around i used a 0.2mm nozzle, the difference isn't all that great and there are a lot of visible ripples, hopefully that'll change with the new stepper drivers. And i can't tell wether i love or hate those tentacle supports from meshmixer, on the other hand they seem like such an elegant solution but on the other they leave horrible bumps everywhere.

>>1338624
the cura supports work well if you have no coasting.

>>1338636
surely you arent talking about the current version of CuraEngine? i mean look at this mess!

>>1338641
but I do mean cura.

tree supports tho

>>1338641
but I do mean cura.
tree supports tho

>>1338646
Ooh looks interesting, i guess i'll give it a try.

>>1338402
With corner conectors you mean the things in your pic or actual plates you bolt to the outside?
because the things in your pic are exactly what I had problems with.

>>1338065
Aside from the motors everything is a cheap chinese knockoff without serials or data sheets I can find. I estimated based on the resistances of everything and calculate current at 12 V.

>>1338662
>because the things in your pic are exactly what I had problems with.

I have those triange shaped things and other things that go into the top of the frame. My current printer is buit like that and the frame is the least of my problems.

Anyone have the Anycubic i3 Mega and is it any good for you? It's more than 100€ cheaper than the Creality CR-10 and seems to be just as good with only a smaller printing area. I can't really find another printer as good as this in the same price range.

>>1338814
BTW, I was going to prototype the gantry out of MDF but I found out I can get it made from aluminum cheaper than what other people would charge me to make from MDF. I'll get this printer moving in two weeks tops.

>>1338646

How would that work?

>>1338934
it didnt, used block to hold up plastic, the process is dumb and only noticed one tip.

>print a tall block in a spiral vase mode
>comes out immaculate
>start printing a pegular part with support and infill
>layers shifting.

So what can it it be? Travel and infill prnting speeds too high? What else?

>>1338946
One way to induce missed steps is to make the machine move faster than it actually can

So yes, that's a possibility

It's odd how I've only ever seen that happen in reprap-like machines, not once in Corexy unless I hold down the carriage with my hand

>>1338937
Thats not really selling Cura's supports to me desu

>>1338980
not trying too, just when I use models it prints well.

I wish there was features that could be adjusted and that there could be custom trees but no cigar,

>>1338966
I dont think its missed steps.

One of my linear rail slides is starting to get a lot of play and it's affecting print quality. It's a size MGN9H.

Is there a recommended brand that you guys swear by? I don't really want to spend more than $25 on a single part even if its a critical piece of the movement system but I will.

>>1338624
Link to the same model plz. I wanna try and compare to what I can get.

>>1339019
I really dony know what the fucj it was but lowering accelerations, jerk, infil and travel speeds did help me.

Before i did those tweaks it was like
>relax the rollers
>print a box in a vade mode
>it came out well so I thought it was the rollers
>print in normal mode and its shit
>figure out that the vase mode has no infil and no travel
>lower those and add Z hop to make sure it doesnt get mechanical error while hittong the print
>now it seems to work fine finally.
My latest marvin is perfectly smooth.

>>1339149
Another suspect it could be - hot end slack.
I knew it could move a little but didnt pay attention.
Now that i think about it maybe the layers shifting were caused by the nozzle getting moved when it was hitting the print while traveling without X hop and I also tightened the screws to hold it snug now.

>have an engineering degre
>cant figure out that shit
Now I am adhamed of myself.

>>1339149
Im thinking the frame is not settled after all the sudden moves when it starts the external perimeter.
For bowden exturders lin advance setting is critical.

>>1338980
there is a detection resolution for the supports, trying it out with some stuff on /bant/ to see if it works

Just finished assembling the Prusa MK2S. My first printer. So excited to print a stupid little dog as my first attempt. Wish me luck.

>>1339183
Welcome to an initially frustrating but ultimately rewarding hobby if you're creative enough

>>1339193
>>1339183

My first printer was a delta, holy shit the amount of frustration. Took 2 month until i could produce a decent print.
A year later a friend gets a prusa, regardless to the documentation he fucks up every possible thing when assembling. Huge scratch in the bed, like 1mm deep, one z motor is not even turning, messy wiring, sloppy belts, loose zip ties. I fixed it up withing 2 hours, feelsgoodman.
Also bitches love when you give them bunnies, cats and shit, still waiting to score a pussy...

>>1339200
I'm printing it for a dude I want to eventually score with. Has anyone ever gotten any over 3D printing?

Also, the Prusa was so easy, just time consuming to put together. The biggest problem I ran into was the bed was not level because a screw was loose. Also just the shit ton of wires you need to plug into the rambo triggered me and I had to rearrange so it looked nice.

>>1339183
>>1339208
Did you get the multi colour extrusion upgrade? That and the new heated bed are the reasons I'm considering upgrading, don't know if I want to go stright to Mk3 though.

>>1339210
Not him but the multicolor upgrade impacts the reliability of the printer greatly , also it wastes a ton of filament.

>>1339217
>impacts reliability
>wastes a ton a filament
Yeah, so far from what I've seen it's making a strong case for the Diamond hotend. And wow, last time I looked, they were only making a 3x version.

>>1339222
those are interesting for mixing purposes, may or may not waste as much as prusa's

I see two or three as the most I would ever need before moving from a multi/mixing nozzle to a multi tool head system.

>>1339233
Ditto, I was just surprised they managed to fit 5 into there. Printing speeds are sure to suffer. I don't think it'd waste nearly as much as Prusa's simply because of the lack of need for a "changing tower" for filament swaps. I think it just pushes different colours in immediately and the change happens within a few mm, at most.

>>1339222
>>1339210
I have an independent dual extrusion machine and the only thing I use the other nozzle for is spare parts. If I want something in multiple colors I just paint it.

Or buy one of these
http://www.mimakiusa.com/products/3d-printers/mimaki-3d-printer/

>>1339236
>paint it
My autism won't let me paint printed parts until I sand them smooth first. Dual extrusion would also help for the parts I print for sale, since those *require* a manual filament change right now.

>>1339237
In my IMO opinion, I'd sooner print a bunch of separate parts in different colors and glue them together before I did manual filament changes

>>1339245
It takes more time and effort to glue them together, plus the seam isn't nearly as nice (elephant foot/bevel would be felt). Also, it's just not practical for really small, floating pieces.

>>1339248
Now I see why the manual change is preferred

You could knock those out in a few minutes with a laser cutter head and some thin acrylic sheets if that were in your budget.

>>1339253
And that's exactly what I'm trying to build right now (with PyCNC). I've got all the steppers from my old printer; I COULD repurpose the entire printer as a cutter but I'd much rather purpose-build a new aluminum frame for it. Only thing that's stopping me is my own laziness and that it's more fun for me to make 3D models than to build a laser right now.

>>1339210
Didn't get it, I'll probably just paint things.

>>1339254
Godspeed in that case.

>>1339041
Bosch Rexroth

>>1339144
finn wont post so here is link https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2435716

>>1339245
>>1339248

The best multy-color technology there is is also the simpliest one. Some company made a printer that cuts the different colored filaments into pieces and fuses them together into one multi-colored line.

>>1339222
Man that is such an interesting concept, like when you think about it, in a bowden style setup the only part from which you actually can't really take off weight is the hotend and that design basically only uses a single hotend for however many colors, i'd like to see them reduce the sizes of those cooling thingies, maybe even make them all into one, saving even more weight.

>>1339296
It's really cool for decoractive objects; doesn't have much use for anything else

>>1336292
Garchomp guy here

I attempted to make a silicone mold of Garchomp parts so that this big boi doesn't have to be a one-off. I found out disappointingly quickly that I do not have the ventilation, table space, budget, or experience to make silicone molds yet. I bungled my way through a mold and I'm attempting a casting now but have little hope of it turning out or even being salvageable.

I have an abundance of time, sandpaper, and plastic filament so those are my weapons of choice for the foreseeable future.

>>1339302
What material are you making the mold out of? I personally have had quite a lot of success in making molds out of plaster and cement for example.

>>1339308
oh wait nvm i thought it was a mold for silicone not made out of silicone

>>1339302
>ventilation
Shit, does it smell that bad?
I plan in getting into that and Im gonna do it in the same room I sleep in.
Although I plan to make a crude workbench out of steel L-beams, bolts and planks.

Different guy who has silicone molding experience here

>>1339332
>ventilation
It has a minimal smell unless you put your face into it

>>1339302
What specific product are you using? The silicones I've used so far haven't smelled past what I mentioned. Making molds of small stuff will help you fairly quickly - just don't follow my mistake and use TOO small stuff like an entire WH40k Start Collecting set. Still haven't gotten around to finishing the damn thing.

>>1339339
>just don't follow my mistake and use TOO small
Can I Expect fine details and high quality If I try and make a 1:6 or larger figurine of an animoo girl from a 3d printed and manually finished master model without any king of pressure chanber etc?

so have any of you guys had success the things you print? any good stories?

>>1339369
5mm air flute valve was a personal success - still waiting to hear back from field trials. Phone case helped me land a job. Turns out people like it if you're competent in reasoning and logic behind the features in your models. Thermoplastic casting has had great results, at the cost of recycling materials and thus reducing material quality. Figure making forced me to learn a bit of blender.

If anything, it's a frustrating and wonderful experience for the inner child that just wants new toys every week.

So umm exactly what is stopping me from printing with some very low melting temperature metal, like solder?

>>1339392
A google search.
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=3d+printing+with+solder

>>1339392
It turns into literal fluid that runs like water rather than viscous-plastic mass that extrudes like goo

You can however 3d print the plastic molds for bysmuth or Wood's alloy

>>1339299

The best use case I've seen for dual extruders is to have one of them loaded with PVA filament, for support material.

Then to remove the supports you just wash the print with water

>>1335372
315

>>1339435
313

>>1339436
307

>>1339437
I'm also working on one that can shoot the yellow ball ammo (Rival)

>>1339302
>Casting
If you want to cast anything worth selling you need a ball jar and a vacuum pump to get all the air out of the silicone. You also have to do a lot of research and trial in moldmaking and mold design. There are a lot of videos on the subject on youtube.

Second, to casting most of the worthwhile resins it is very much advised to have pressure-casting equipment as that will eliminate 99% of the bubbles in your parts by crushing them under 40psi.

It's a good process if you are just looking to reproduce something in a general shape over and over again, but I've found it to be too labor-intensive if you need the resulting parts to have good dimensional tolerances and impact resistance.

>>1339421
That also takes two nozzles, I'm not sure how well one nozzle + several inputs would work for materials with very different temperatures such as PVA and ABS. Stratasys does it with two extruders and two nozzles and it works.

>>1339339
I didn't explain very well; the silicone doesn't need ventilation, but the epoxy or polyester resins in the casting sure do. It's a smallish apartment and I have a cat and stuff.

Looking forward to order a batch iridescent filament from a filament manufacturer and I'm wondering: how abrasive would it be?

>>1339351
I've gotten sub-millimeter accuracy from just regular room-temperature/pressure pouring and casting (like the LEGO markings on the studs of LEGO bricks).

>>1339477
>polyester resin
Haven't dealt with those but I've heard they're simply nasty. I use polyurethane resin - very little smell, no offgassing (AFAIK), and cures relatively fast depending on what type you have and ambient temperature.

Pic related is made using Smooth-On Oomoo 30 and Smooth-Cast 300, then primed and painted. The roughness is due to my (lack of) ability, not the properties of the mold and resin.

Attempted printing toobs model from here >>1339267
Nozzle 0.4, layers 0.15, single fan with a duct for cooling the cold end and the part.

The tree support in Cura literally doesnt work and it's safe to say this printed entirely without any support.
The parts that really did print correctly (front) look impressive and give hope for bright future. The parts tha did fuck up are due to lack of support and the fact that the nozzle touches the print and messes it up smearing shit sideways like with fingers.

>>1339545
Wow friend that's fucking impressive and gives a lot of hope.

>>1339563
Pull it into Meshmixer and add trees into the model from there if Cura isn't cutting it.

>>1339563
its the hair and heels that's the problem, mm supports and cura cant give it the support it needs.

>>1339570
The hair and heels as well as the fingers were messed up by the nozzle touching it.

Somebody suggested that may be overextrusion, gotta try less flow then.
Also is there any kind of Z offzet setting?

>>1339573
>z offset
there is an addon for that.

I am still just looking at slicing vertically like the original poster. maybe a ooze sheald and a larger size.

maybe a remesh in mm with a minimum thickness.

>>1339545
Is that your casting?
Seems awesome, I love me some Mechanicus.
Figured ordering ONE and pooring the rest myself would save me a lot of in the long run.

>>1339581
Thanks; Yep, it was my second batch of silicone (first went towards larger, 3D printed parts) and first time painting a figure of that size so it's a lot grainier than what I can paint now.

I wouldn't really recommend recasting specifically Mechanicus due to all the fiddly bits - I had a hell of a time smoothing both halves of the mold out as well as figuring out where the mold line should be, whole process took me a couple of months for a Start Collecting box. I don't think it'd take more than a week for a figure or five, though.

Pic related is probably a terrible idea, but I made a tiny pressure pot out of a mason jar (the lid HAS to be of this type or it won't hold pressure), some valve, silicone caulk, and a bike pump. Works well enough when pouring resin to get almost-clear results. Obligatory disclaimer: don't use over 10PSI, I'm not responsible for your injuries, etc. etc.

>>1339586
What it looks like with 10psi of pressure "overnight" (I'm pretty sure it dropped down to like 5, I didn't have a constant supply and the jar wasn't 100% airtight at over 7psi)

>>1339588
And what it looks like without pressure casting. Not much pressure makes a lot of difference, but unless you're casting clear, shouldn't matter too much.

>>1339586
I used a Zepter pressure cooker with a fridge motor attached to it with a high pressure hose for a vacuum camber. You can even do a bit of temperature control with it for slower mold cooling. I've been told it extends the life of molds, but I've yet to test it. Works grate with wax casting parts.
Leave the sucker in there over night on low heat.
sucks all the bubbles out, the mold sets slowly. Take it out let it cool.
But to be honest all I've done with it so far are my gfs super fancy art projects, and some custom part casting for a machine shop.

>>1339588
>What it looks like with 10psi of pressure
I was using 40psi for most of my casting.

>>1339596
But then again I had a pressure pot made out of a harbor freight paint pot and this converted pressure cooker.

>>1339563
That upside down 2B kek
>not like this senpai

The heels are thin so they cant conduct heat away fast and they get bloby. You need to help out with some extra cooling, or set the temp lower for those layers (it will show tho)
Use a different color, the white hides the problems.

>>1339592
>>1339597
I'd love to get a setup like that but at the time I did those I was a college student with a low budget, and the jar/pump/valve/silicone cost maybe $30 at most. Definitely unsuitable for larger parts, though.

>Print time 8 hours
>Means t actually will be 18
Well, perhaps then I upgrade my cooling and nozzle I will thry this.

First thing I need Is to get the smaller nozzles shipped and buy a blower fan

>>1339600
Nah the upside down part is all fine and dandy but imho he tilted it a bit too far backwards.

>>1339622
>but imho he tilted it a bit too far backwards.
The plan was to create the surface for supports to attach to, exceptthe supports didn't slicecorrectly

>>1339616
WTF kind of supports are those? Why are they such a distorted cone?

Attempt 2 at a hot end fan blower funnel thingy. Stkll some weird stringing and artifacts, hopefully better cooling will help with that shit

Tomorrow, time to fit and check I made it avoid the bed

I just wish my chinkshit clone of a geeetech clone of a Prusa had a better designed extruder assembly, getting anythong additional attached is a bitch.

>>1339635
the experimental tree support.
Same as I used here >>1339563
Technically it is supposed to grow from the place and only touch the print where it's necessary

>>1339637

2 hour 20 minute print, but it seems to be "ribbed" along the vertical, as if the build plate/y-axis is off by a fraction of a milimeter every time it raises on the z-level...

I need a better webcam for octoprint too

>>1339655
Could be your leadscrews aren't straight, printing speed is too high, or something is loose and causing play during print

>>1339655

Not even lead screws, cheap threaded rods (as I said, chinkshit printer)

Got some lead screw in the post to upgrade it shortly though

>>1339666 meant for >>1339660

>>1338308
>>1338402

Tha gantry plate is done and I ordered a second one to either reinforce the first or convert my current corexy into a h8-bot as well

The virgin corexy vs the Chad h-bot

>>1339589
Is there a retarder you can add in the mix so that you have the time to degas it?

>>1340059
what if you place it in the freezer/fridge/outside? cold temperatures tend to retard reactions, right?

So I've finally figured out that out of all the problems I had for this fucking month, my extruder gear no longer grips the PLA filament but does not grind, merely slips. The OD of the gear teeth seem to be fine, however I am now looking into a new set of teeth.

You lads, lasses and none of the above have any experience with the differences in the number of gear teeth? I'm eyeing a set out, 26 teeth and 40 for an 11mm OD for the i3.

Christ I'm pissed at this. In the meantime, I'll see if I can somehow sharpen the teeth so it grips.

>>1340092
Can't you just tighten it?
>spending a month without noticing that your extruder gear slips
baka

>>1340094
The gear does not slip with the shaft as the locking screw is set down onto the key cutout. The gear does not bite onto the filament and slips. The gear is firmly attached to the shaft.

aho

DYI slide rails.
Just a thought, can you scrap out some of those older desktop page scanners?
Rails, motor drives, belts. Maybe ghetto bet for the used to free price it might be worth taking a screwdriver to just to see whats available.

>>1340115
>Just a thought, can you scrap out some of those older desktop page scanners?

They have very high quality chrome plated rods. If you have a lot of them, go for it.

>>1340115
>motor drives
Usually a SMD ULN2003, not worth removing from the pcb

>motors
Usually 5 wires unipolar. You can drive them with an external ULN2003 with no modification. It's quite fun, if you're good enough yhou can use the scanner carriage itself.

>belts
I think they're MXL or something like that, some will fit a GT2 pulley but they're not exactly GT2. They come with a tiny tensioner. There is also an idler which you may want to use with that belt and that motor assembly.

>>1340095

some extruders you can adjust how tight the gap between the filament and the wheel is, >>1340094 was talking about tightening that

like pic related

>>1340059
I think so, yeah, but I'm using a craft-store mix (Envirotex Lite Pour-On) which probably doesn't - if I were to do something like this again I'd probably get some Smooth-On products since they seem to have a wide variety of pigments, accelerators, retarders, etc. This specific mix stays liquid for... I dunno, a half hour or so? Mine was also likely expired so it might have been thicker than it should be.

>>1340087
Yeah, but take care it's dry and that no condensate forms, water doesn't play well with curing resins.

>>1340204
I mean honestly in this day and age there's literally not a single reason to not have a spring tensioned adjustable extruder assembly with a quick release latch, even my poverty spec china kit has one.

>>1339545
Did you use a resin printer to make the mold? The detail looks really good, could you walk through how you got it to look so good?

>>1340216
No, I used the actual figurines made by Games Workshop. Pic attached isn't mine but is representative of the actual quality/detail you'd get from them. The person who assembled this particular figure didn't clean the mold lines, though, so it's not as pretty as it usually is.

What I did was pretty much:
>get a block of plasticine, roll it into 0.5cm sheets
>heat *slightly* to make it more malleable
>press the individual pieces into the plasticine
>build up plasticine/fill crevices where needed so there are no undercuts
>trim resulting sheet so I can fit LEGO bricks around it to contain liquid silicone
>build up plasticine where it meets the bricks so there is no leakage
>add runners and gates as needed
>coat in mold release, pour silicone
>wait until cured, flip, remove plasticine, coat in mold release, pour again
>demold, recast

I'd love to be able to just print 2-part molds out of resin, though, and that's one of the biggest reasons I want to get a resin printer

>>1340204
Oh, my apologies then. The extruder already has a spring on it, exactly as that image except it's flipped to the right. Already loosened the screw the lever is pivoting on and the spring has been there for the past year. The hell do I do to that?

How low can you go?
I'm talking about hotend weights of course, i'm thinking about doing the good ol' Ultimaker build but going a bit further, what i mean is stuff like dropping the dual hotend and going with only one, not using ordinary linear bushings but polymer ones, and replacing those steel shafts that move around, with carbon fiber ones, that kinda stuff, would it be a feasible idea? Something obviously wrong with it? With a hotend that light the speeds possible ought to be absurdly high making printing even with a 0.2mm nozzle atleast somewhat tolerable.

https://openbuilds.com/builds/diy-ultimaker.5585/

>>1340273
Doesn't make sense to me.
I find myself cooling locked most of the time.

>>1340217
Gotcha. No 3d printer was involved. It still looks amazing though and a resin printer would be really nice. Thanks for your time anon

>>1340296
Okay, in the interest of FULL disclosure - I did 3D print the base and then paint it. That's the only printed part, though.

Do the rubber rail inserts in a CR-10 do anything functional or are they purely cosmetic? Google isn't turning up an answer one way or the other.

>>1338439
All values were adjusted by changing firmware and reflashing to it. Enabled EEPROM and wrote the desired value in S3D machine control again just to be sure, still no change in model height. Can't figure out what I'm missing :(

>>1340273
Nothing wrong with it, seems like a solid idea. The issue with carbon fiber rods is finding rods that are straight enough, not that garbage that is good for making kites and nothing else.

>>1340288
That's because you're printing in PLA. It makes not much difference for PETG and definitely not a good idea for ABS.

>>1340309
Keep dirt out of the grooves

>>1339391
I like how I forgot to type anything related to actually selling what you printed, yet you somehow still knew what I meant

>>1340217
I did have an idea for fdm printing a mold form and then using just a small amount of silicone between the model and the mold. Would save a hell of a lot on cost since you use little silicone and don't need to throw out entire bricks if a mold fucks up.

Guess what just came in the mail, boy i can't wait to install these.

What is the technical term for this in english?

>>1340707
Graphics Interchange Format

>>1340365
Thanks

>>1340582
That's (sort of) actually a thing! I don't remember the exact name, but at least the very outer shell in pic related is called a "mother mold". The idea is you use a brush-on material that captures all the model details, then cover it in fibreglass or plaster to make it structurally sound.

>>1340582
Not a bad idea, though I'd be afraid of losing some detail since your negative silicone mold surface is going to be a positive casting of a 3D printed negative.

I suppose you could also try printing the mold in a dissolvable filament like HIPS, pouring in your casting resin directly, and dissolving the print afterwards

>>1340707
>bow buttress
A brace? WTF are we even looking at?

>>1340707
google: bearing 2:1 ratio

>>1340822
This thing for example.

>>1340832
>>1340707
...Cantilever?

>>1340806
I meant something similar to >>1340754

>>1340822
When I look for bow buttress in the google images this is what comes up

>>1340831
I knew about the Igus guide but I didn't knowwhat wasn't a new thing. Nice knowing that.

>>1340832
Yes but it isn't a phenomenon exclusive for cantilever mechanisms like that. I'm pretty sure the CR-10, Tarantulas and the like also suffer from this since the X axis is lifted by only one of the ends

>live in texas
>build my prusa mk2
>too fucking humid and scared to break out the PLA

Fuck me man

>>1341071
its raining right now here, I aunt printing due to power outs.
pla can print anywhere unless it has additives like wood or zinc glowing stuff, its petg, tpu, and nylons that have problems with water,

>>1341074
Won't the humidity shorten its life though?

The plates are here

It turns out that even with the linear rail carriages bolted down by the 4 holes I can still twist the gantry a bit around its Z axis, so it's possible I may change it to a Corexy afterall. I'm printing a dummy carriage with proper belt attachment to see if the racking effect will actually be noticeable. If it is, I'll make idler holders for 4 bearings instead of two each, lower the rear gantry idlers using aluminum spacers and end up with a non-intersecting corexy machine that is at least much more solid than my current one and capable of better detail due to direct extruder

>>1341077
you can have pla in humidity for a year and not have a single humidity issue,

but you are in texas, it is a bigger problem than other places, mostly with petg. I had one of those in during a storm and had to spend a day dehydrating it before resuming the print

>>1341079
Do you think a dehumidifier would help? I have a larger one.

>>1341083
a food dehydrator works

>>1341083
Dude just store your filaments in a box with the top sealed and some silica balls in there.

>>1341078
>attach idler holders
>put pulleys on motors
>print a mock carriage
>run the belt through everything
>looks really neat and clean
>find my stepper motor tester
>connect the two motors in reverse-parallel so they'll move the carriage in the x axis only
>with low speed and low acceleration, no torquing around the z axis is noticeable
>with higher acceleration, the ends of the gantry move visibly, maybe 0.3mm in 200mm of x axis travel
>movement on the y axis, however, is perfect, with no unintentional movement in the x axis, which is expected since the gantry is pulled by both ends

I'm guessing that since acceleration = force * mass, a higher acceleration will produce a higher force and therefore turn the gantry more.

Do I give it a chance and run it with a very low acceleration on the x axis and a higher one on the y, or do I go straight to corexy? If I went to corexy it would be better to change the gantry so it uses F623zz bearings as idlers, which would make the assembly a lot less tall. I really like the way it looks right now.

>>1341149
Also, I'm starting to think that my h-bot would work better if the gantry was along the shorter side rather than along the longer one

Here's what it looks like right now

>>1341149
I realy feel like someone should tell you about a thing called dual wire gantry.

>>1341279
I know about it, it has both motors stationary and the movement of each axis is isolated from the other. I will try it, eventually.

Is there a blueprint or a solidworks assembly for the CR-10/Ender hot end?

I want to design my own hot end cooler with the stock 40mm for the heatsink and two 4020 blowers for the part cooling and it would be a lot easier if I had any blueprints or specifications of what exaclty I'm working with,

So, I've learned a lot more about casting the fifth jellyfish - always triple check the fucking mold. Turns out I had a shit print for a retaining pin and that went loose in the first hot pour.

I decided to pour in 1cm tall increments due to temperature - due to the first pour being too fluid and hot, the break in the retaining pin on the first pour freaked me out about temperature and made me attempt lower, less plastic temperatures.

In the following cm pours, I've went cooler and cooler to get a more viscous pour. I've poured on the pillar and this repeated pouring on the central pillar made a rather big blob of material at the rear-most end.

This blob, combined with my cooler pours, did not fuse the surface of the previous pour with the next one, hence the voids and the rather large gash up at the rear-most end.

Between pours, I had put the cast in the freezer for 5-10 minutes, depending on how hot it felt on the exterior. At the final pour, I had placed it in the freezer for half an hour. This time was not enough as it was still very warm!

I've melted a whole pot-ful of it and this resulted in very messy pours. I highly recommend melting in small batches!

I've had a go with a probe thermometer while melting. 100C is approaching viscous, 80 was far too viscous to pour, and 140 and above is very fluid - far too hot to work with PLA, at least with my cooling conditions.

Will rework the two-piece tube mold and make it into a 3 or 4 piece. The "head" end is fine as it is. "tentacle" design needs some reworking to remove sharper corners, but whatever.

>>1341647
Looks like an onahole
And gets me hard

X-carriage + hotend is here. I'm designing a hotend clamp right now that also holds that fan in place so that it does not rattle while printing. I need to figure out where and how to put the endstops. The hotend mount being separate from the extruder holder means I can configure it either as a bowden or as a direct driver. The gantry is already pretty fucking heavy as it is, but I'm confident I can get at least 100 mm/s travel speed with that nema17 on the top of the x carriage and since everything is so rigid it shouldn't even have that much effect on print quality.

>>1340707
Something about "stick-slip"

https://www.igus.com/wpck/11047/Stick_slip_TechTalk

I am suddenly getting a lot of layer shifting on my prints. Or rather, my print - I've tried this particular print five times and they all end in layer shifting. The weirdest thing is that the shifting happens at regular intervals. Is it possible that this is a slicer error and not anything mechanical?

>>1342226
It's definitely possible - I had a gcode error once where the entire top third of the print was shifted over half the width of the print. There are online gcode checkers/visualizers you can use to take a look at your file and see if there are errors.

>>1342226
easy to find out with a g-code viewer

Is there any compelling reason not to put a MicroSwiss metal hot end on a CR-10S?

If that reason is jamming, did you try lowering your retraction distance and did yours come with the silicone sock? I'm trying to separate early model teething issues and G code issues from problems with the actual assembly.

>>1342226
>Is it possible that this is a slicer error and not anything mechanical?
If it only happens with this single print an no others, then it has to be a software error

>>1342226
If you are printing from an SD card the data is getting corrupted. Format the card and rewrite the gcode files to it.