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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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1318545 No.1318545 [Reply] [Original]

How do I get this Enfield's butt stock to match the rest of the wood? People told me boiled linseed oil, but that didn't make a notable difference.

>> No.1318555

>>1318545
Boiled lindseed is mostly clear.
Try black walnut stain.

>> No.1318558

>>1318545
More oil.

>> No.1318560

Either multiple coats and it should darken, you could try sanding back the darker wood and recoating.

Boiled linseed is the traditional coatinv used on them, if you want to match colour and not to worried about keeping it collector get the stain you need and go for it

>> No.1318563

You don't. Your rifle has mismatched wood, it is very common with old milsurp rifles. Cherish it as it is.

>> No.1318582
File: 691 KB, 2600x1462, 1504058625632.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1318582

>>1318563
Actually, the guy who had it before me went full Bubba and slapped a synthetic stock on it.

>>1318558
>>1318560
This is really my first time working with wood. It's on my second coat, I assume it'll need more?

Also, I'm following a guide on cleaning wood stocks. Not the same thing but I thought it was close enough. It says to wipe off excess oil after 15 minutes. Should I try a different method?

>Video in question
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jfcUwMWxJ2U

>> No.1318587

>>1318582
ever heard of "shot of black"
it's a black pigment that is used to colour paints and stains
go to HD and ask for a shot of black in the paint department

>> No.1318589

>>1318587
>shot of black
Google isn't bringing anything up. Assuming you're not messing with me, you got a name brand or something?

>> No.1318603

>>1318582
1. You're not going to match the original wood perfectly because of age. Period.
2. You can do some artificial aging and distressing techniques if you want it to blend better, or you can leave it as is. Old shit is, old you know. That's not always bad.
3. BLO is a terrible wood finish. It takes forever to dry, esp in cold weather, and goes on very thin. Leave at least 3 days between coats, a week is better. Usually aim for for 6+ coats, but desu just stop when you get bored with it or it matches as well as you want it to.

This video will serve you better:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kVDyClbVl2A

>> No.1318620
File: 461 KB, 900x1599, IMAG0990_BURST002.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1318620

>>1318603
>. Leave at least 3 days between coats, a week is better. Usually aim for for 6+ coats
That long, eh? I guess I'll make it part of a weekly routine. Thanks.

>> No.1318628

>>1318589

Don’t assume things m8

>> No.1318632
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1318632

>>1318628
Nah mate. When you want paint to match, go to the hardware store and ask for a "shot of black." That way they will know you're a real pro.

>> No.1318638

>>1318589
>doesnt know shot of black
lurk moar newfag

>> No.1318646

>>1318620
It could be shorter, 24 hours maybe in warm weather, but if you layer it on too fast, the top layers will block off oxygen to the lower layers and prevent them from curing, and you'll get a gooey sludge that never dries. Best to err on the cautious side and make sure each layer fully cured.

>> No.1318652

>>1318638
>>1318587
> LEL I POSTED IT AGEN XDDDDD

Everytime you post it you force it way too hard into the conversation. Fuck off back to fakebook with your ebin may mays

>> No.1318669

>>1318582
>the guy who had it before me went full Bubba and slapped a synthetic stock on it
So im guessing these are just stocks you bought separately.

Just sand them both down and oil them,

>> No.1318673

Let the stock sit in a sunny window for a few weeks, flip it over every day so the other side can work. UV is one of the main causes of wood darkening, the filth and grime of daily life is the other.

>> No.1318688

>>1318603
What this learned Anon is not telling you is: use Tru-oil. Way easier and faster. Everything else he's spot on about. Hell, polyurethane floor finish is easier and better than BLO. And don't worry about the shot of black until you're a pro.

>> No.1318748

>>1318545
DON'T SAND IT. The fore-end is darker because it is full of dirt and oil, while the buttstock seems to be fresher and cleaner. You meed to remove all the contaminent and stain from both stocks, then apply some coats of tru-oil. Thos is what I did to my mauser. Take the stock apart and clean it with a rag, boiling hot water, and some degreaser (try krud kutter, seems to me milder than a lot of others). Then break out the clothes iron and use it to steam the stains and oils out by laying the wet rag on the wood and then briefly applying the iron to the rag.

>> No.1318971

test

>> No.1319007

I like Butts.

>> No.1319043
File: 154 KB, 4032x880, 223jcwoodfront.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1319043

I've got a similar question also related to enfield wood. I got a sporterized enfield foreend today for my 223 jungle carbine project. I intend to cut a groove into it for the stock band and refinish it to match the handguard.
How should I strip the finish off the wood?

>> No.1319044

>>1319043
I think the wood was stained red. You can see a similar color to the handguard on the unfinished parts on the outside, and there are blotches of "less finished" wood, almost like bubbles in the varnish.

>> No.1319047
File: 470 KB, 3104x3024, woodcolors.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1319047

>>1319044

>> No.1319310

>>1319043
Are you stripping the original part, the new part, or both to match?

>> No.1319347

>>1319310
I want to strip the sporterized forestock only to match the hanguard. The handguard (top) stays original.

>> No.1319356 [DELETED] 

Shouldn't this kind of violence be on /k/? One of the Nazi containment boards?

>> No.1319357

>>1319356
Ironic shitposting is still shitposting.

>> No.1319813

>>1318545
If you really need it to match, gently strip the whole thing down then hand rub it with gun stock oil. This finish takes weeks try looks right. It's "dry" in a day or two but really needs to cure. That or leave it alone.

>> No.1319816

>>1318669
>>1319813
If it were my gun I would do this very patiently and slowly over 6 weeks or so or I'd just leave it as is.

>> No.1320156
File: 179 KB, 1836x3924, duringstrip.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1320156

>>1319347
I applied some citristrip to the forestock and removed most of the finish.

>> No.1320157
File: 331 KB, 3024x1644, after_strip.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1320157

>>1320156
The color of the forestock (bottom) is a much closer match to the handguard (top) now.

What finish should I apply to the forestock so that it matches the matte yet clear finish of the handguard?

>> No.1320168

>>1320157
2 ounces of raw linseed oil applied by hand every year.

>> No.1320286
File: 2.51 MB, 3840x2160, 1452912651635.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1320286

The finish on this 1941 made Winchester was not pretty so I had it blued. The stock needed some repair. So, I used a gentle stripper on them both, made the repair to the stock and put on 3 coats of Birchwood Casey Tru-oil to each.
The Birchwood Casey Tru-oil, which I gather is very similar to if not actually boiled linseed oil, takes a very tiny amount, like 3 drops max per coat. The oil actually dries fairly quickly but takes weeks to cure. I took this picture a couple days after it was done but it was still way to shiny. The finish looks much better and closer to the original now. I had the benefit of both pieces of wood being the original antique wood though.

>> No.1320287
File: 631 KB, 3264x1840, 1452912937205.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1320287

>>1320286
This was the finish on the metal. I couldn't stand the orange in it. Anyway, my only advice to whatever you want to do is move slowly. It takes weeks.

>> No.1320288

>>1320286
No additional anything from >>1320286
other than it's set in a safe for a year.

>> No.1320289
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1320289

>>1320288
Sorry, pic I just took on phone.