/diy/ - Do It Yourself

horrible freight 7x12 mini lathe for 480 bucks (20% coupon good til 21st). yea or nay? how much will i have to fix or upgrade to make it not suck ass?
i really want a lathe but dont have the room or cash for a real big boy lathe at this point.

Do transformers have to be big and heavy? My 2000w weights like 15kg.

>>1317931
where'd you get a coupon that will let you use it toward a lathe?

What are you going to do with it? Those small lathes with their tiny spindle bores are next to useless unless you're doing brass miniatures or something.

>>1317931

If yours is anything like mine:

The gibs will fit like shit, and the ways won't be accurate enough to avoid binding at some point in their travel. The little plate under the carriage that keeps it held down will also fit like shit, and this will be made worse by the fact that the paint won't have been taken off the bottom.

I don't know if it will have taper/angular contact bearings or just regular deep groove axial ball bearings, as I've heard conflicting info depending on when and who's version of the 7x lathe you have. If it has the latter, you're going to want to replace them.

I fucking hate those lantern toolposts. The first thing you want to buy is a quick change post, trust me on this.

It only has a 3-jaw scroll chuck. If you need to re-chuck a workpiece, it won't center accurately in it. You'd need to pick up a 4-jaw if this is a problem (which it may not be, depending on what you want out of it).


It works out of the box, but, I'll be real here: I do have some regret not simply waiting around until a deal popped up on CL/eBay. The size is limiting for some of the things I want to do with it, especially in regards to the through hole on the spindle.

>>1317991

They do if they're 50/60Hz mains transformers. Has to do with the amount of flux is has to handle before going into saturation thanks to the low frequency of mains power. Switching PSUs, at their core, actually work the exact same way as a plain old iron transformer. It's just that they can use much smaller transformers thanks to the fact that they usually operate at tens of kHz or more.

>>1317997
its a general 20% off good for most things (its on the home page). it would be for small aluminum things, spacers, pulleys, laser hosts, and other little pieces of bullshit i happen to think up when im tinkering in the garage.

>>1318002
>It works out of the box, but, I'll be real here: I do have some regret not simply waiting around until a deal popped up on CL/eBay.
thats pretty much the main drawback in my mind, i really wouldnt mind buying it and upgrading it because i like to build and mess with things, but at such a high starting price (for what you get) plus the cost of upgrades it gets to the point where youre only 100-300 short of a real tool room machine with 0 bullshit

>>1318003
>coupon
Yeah. I see it now. I always thought the 20% off coupons excluded mills and lathes. Guess not.

>>1317931
Someone suggested to me that I should buy the 7x10 mini from HF with the 25% coupon they occasionally have ($570/1.25=$456) and the 16" bed extension off little machine shop for $170 for a total of $626 for a 7x16 mini lathe. This was a experienced hobby machinist and I've never done any lathe work.

No idea if this is a good idea though. On the bright side, there is a TON of documentation on improvements to make to the 7x mini lathe at the /diy/ level.

>>1318035
Oh and this.

>>1318035
>>1318036
I bought an old Craftsman lathe for $80 and added a jack shaft and some extra pulleys (similar setup from Google, same model, not my machine). I paid another $30 at a local auction for a box of old chucks and lathe jaws. I got a 3 jaw, a 4 jaw, and a few different sized faceplates plus some normal chucks and a live center.

A friend of mine got that turd from HF and the motor blew up on it 6 months after he got it. He used my lathe for a weekend to get some work done and said that it was 10 times the lathe he had. Didn't hurt that I paid a third what he did either.

TL;DR don't buy shit tools and expect to polish them up into something nice no matter what modifications you make to them.

>>1318039

>>1318035
Welll.....

Unless you can make important components more rigid it might not be very useful unless you want to spend lots of time turning off tiny amounts in one go, like 15 thousandths per pass.

>>1318039
Metal lathes are very rare to come by here and are usually very expensive.

I actually have a HF pen lathe and I just love the thing. I've been using it for 5 years now and it still runs great. Luck of the draw.

>>1318039
^ I agree with those whole-heartedly, buy an old small lathe because they are made better.

More cast iron, better cast iron too.

>>1318050
That is the beautiful part mate, it is a 'combination lathe'. Basically, it is a wood lathe that can be made into a light duty metal lathe by using a jack shaft to slow down the RPM enough to work metal. While it is not for heavy duty work I guaranty you it is better than any 'precision' piece of shit being sold at HF.

Check this picture out. Old school woodworking lathes use 2 step pulleys with a belt between them to drive the spindle inside the headstock. One pulley on the motor, one on the spindle. Metalworking lathes generally use step pulley on the motor that was connected to a series of gears by a belt to reduce the RPM. Gears prevented slipping that would happen at higher torque when doing heavy work but belts were fine for light duty stuff. The one in my picture uses a jackshaft, the extra shaft and step pulleys mounted below the lathe and the motor, to do the same thing using just belts. It is not as good as a gear driven lathe but it allows you to work metal and still be able to work wood because you still had access to the higher RPM settings with a quick belt change. You can do this with any of the old school woodworking lathes because they were so beefy. Cast iron for days, overbuild head and tail stocks, and generally much larger bearings then they would use for such machines these days.

Woodworking lathes generally sell for a lot less than a metal work one and all you have to do is add a jack shaft and swap in some lathe chucks. Those old lathes often used standard threading so swapping out parts is fairly easy and there is plenty of aftermarket stuff around. Check out the OWWM forums, they are a gold mine. Be sure to register, only a few boards are visible to unregistered viewers.

>>1318051
This guy gets it.

>>1318118
>Woodworking lathes generally sell for a lot less than a metal work one and all you have to do is add a jack shaft and swap in some lathe chucks

Except they're only passingly alike in actual use and construction.

A wood lathe has no carriage with the associated cross slide and compound, no lead screw, no gears for threading, no provisions to attach any of this, and, even if you were to add them somehow, the bed itself isn't precision ground or scraped. I don't think they generally don't have much travel on the tailstock, either; just enough to push a center against a workpiece; drilling anything more than relatively shallow holes isn't an option even if you got a chuck for it. And "cast iron for days"? I was considering picking up a LeBlonde lathe on CL for like two weeks before it disappeared, likely similar in capacity to the one you have pictured. If it's the model I think it was, the thing weighs in at well over 2,000lbs. That's not even that heavy, as far as metal lathes go.

If all you want is small, decorative parts, sure, but I'd hazard anyone eyeing the HF lathe isn't too interested in that sort of work. If you want to make usable parts, keeping an eye out on eBay/craigslist for a score is going to be better, in the long term, than trying to convert a wood lathe.

>>1318121
>no carriage with the associated cross slide
See the above catalog page I linked. They sold them and they are still available if a bit difficult to find. There are also people that have made other manufacturer's models fit other machines. Every company that sold combination lathes made them. Picture related.

>no lead screw, no gears for threading
You've got me there. I never said it was a total replacement for a metal lathe, I just said it was a lot better than anything you could get from HF for the price.

>the bed itself isn't precision ground or scraped
This is versus a Harbor Freight lathe. The only precision involved in an HF tool's construction is the word printed on the box. You can spend under $200 to make a better machine then the $300 HF model. Is it as good an old Logan, Atlas, or South Bend? Hell no. For light duty work, though, it is much better than some Chinesium hunk of crap.

>I don't think they generally don't have much travel on the tailstock, either; just enough to push a center against a workpiece
They have full travel. You can move the tailstock up so it is touching the headstock. Which, OP, I recommend you do when buying a lathe, any lathe, to make sure everything is true.

> I was considering picking up a LeBlonde lathe...
Again, this is for light duty work and in comparison to an HF lathe. Pulling out LeBlond, Clausing, etc and trying to compare it to these is like saying you shouldn't bother with a Toyota Tacoma pickup because it is not nearly as capable as a Unimog.

>keeping an eye out on eBay/craigslist for a score
There is no way you will ever find a metal lathe that isn't a clapped out pile of rust for anything near the price range we are talking about. I've been looking for one for years and they generally bottom out at around $500 for something that is missing parts and needs tons of work.

I have 2 oak slabs that have been drying for 3 years now, i put them through a planer last week and they were really straight,
now a week later they are warped with atleast 1,5 cm difference in end and middle..

I looked at the grain and the slabs are cut out of the core so thats the problem, but why does the slab warp more after planing it?

can i use a steel frame as base to force the slab to stay straight?

What do I use to fill a hole that I need to put screw into?

I have a door hing and the screws egged out the wall holes and need to fill it and re screw the screws so just using a bigger screw wont work since it wont fit though the hole in the hinge.

>>1318229

stick one or more toothpicks or slivers of wood into the hole. not too much.

>>1318236
If I wanted a shim I would have used a shim. Thanks for the suggestion but that's not what I'm after.

>>1318229
Drill out the hole so it is straight and has flat sides. Glue in a length of dowel of the correct diameter and cut it flush.

>>1317930
i have an broken cz-101 synthesizer. it sounds like something in the output is broken because the audio coming out is very quiet and doesn't sound right. Is there a way to test if the output transistors are working properly? i have a multi meter.

I muck about with carving and shaping semi-precious stones for jewelry and I often collect the powder into small vials cause it's pretty. I also tend to do this with incense ash.

I was wondering if there's any possible way I could compress and solidify them into stones or similar?

>>1318332
Probably best shot is to send it to one of those hydraulic press YouTube channels.

>>1318345
Seriously? It's really not worth it, was looking for a home thing, I don't have such a tool..

>>1318348
You could make a little screwy press like AvE has

>>1318352
Elaborate please? What's AvE ?

>>1318358
https://www.google.com/search?q=little+screwy+press+ave

>>1318137
>This is versus a Harbor Freight lathe. The only precision involved in an HF tool's construction is the word printed on the box.

I'll admit, mine isn't actually a HF lathe (it's the slightly more expensive Sieg), but the bed is surprisingly well-ground. I didn't get more than 0.0003" of varation over the ~1.5" piece of stock I was testing on. Not great, but better than I was expecting and I suspect a lot of the error I was seeing was due to the looseness of the rest of the carriage.

Though, I'll admit, the cross slide and compound are another story entirely.


I'm surprised to learn carriages are available for these things, as I had always assumed the "metal turning" bit was more for pens and similar decorative work. I'd say the limited travel may be somewhat limiting, but, then again, I've never actually turned anything longer than a few inches in the HF lathe, anyway. At least, not in one, continuous operation. Maybe not such a bad option, in that case.


I still say you should get an actual metal lathe if you want to do that kind of work, though. Being limited by your tooling is more of a motivation killer than just about anything. I do speak from experience on that one.


>There is no way you will ever find a metal lathe that isn't a clapped out pile of rust for anything near the price range we are talking about.

Maybe not the low hundreds, no, but I've seen decent equipment go for barely over scrap price for essentially no reason other than dumb luck and circumstance. It's not the norm (I didn't say you'd find one fast), but fortune favors the patient.

>>1317930
US Anon with a vent regulation code/best practice question.

Got a 6" pipe that used to vent the heater and water heater - upgraded the heater so it's just the water heater right now.

Tried googling, but can't come up with how close things can be to it. I want to insulate around it while the drywall is off during a room remodel.

Is there a place i can order pre cut pieces of aluminum to dimensions I need them in? I don't have the room or tools to cut any, plus I'd rather it be professionally done so its as close to size as possible.

>>1318410
Pretty much any online store does cuts for a fee.

Call a local welding shop and be chill. They should hook you up for less than online.

I want to make a concrete parking pad in my yard. Do I need to go to the trouble of rebar and everything or should some solid ground prep be enough?

>>1318531
It will crack without rebar.

Im wanting to build a spray booth for indoor work as i get a lot of dust where i live. Is there a real danger using a new modern box fan and fumes? Atm ill be just using can spray and going to airbrush later is one more dangerous then the other?

>>1317930
long story short. THE ONLY JOINT SWEATING I WILL EVER DO IS AT A BUFFET WITH FRIENDS. BEYOND MAD. can you jam cpvc and copper into the same compresion fitting? Please fuck get me groumd to pex soon...

>>1318557
>can you jam cpvc and copper into the same compresion fitting?

There are sharkbite fittings that let you do that.

Jury's still out on how long they'll actually hold up, though. I personally wouldn't put them hidden away in a wall for 30 years, put it that way.

As for soldering copper pipe? Pic related is all I can tell you, DESU.

Do you have to cut the side panels off of a connex, or can they be unbolted and reused?

>>1318039
>I bought an old Craftsman lathe for $80
where
how
where is everyone finding cheap tools like this, ive been literally unable to so much as find a drill bit set used AT ALL let alone used machine tools

If one were to take apart a cheapy coreless door and fill it with some sort of foam such as firestop, would there be a noticeably large reduction in the amount of noise which filters through it?

Are the different types of insecticide a marketing meme or do they actually make a difference?
I've never been in control of the "fumigation" at home before so I have no idea.

>>1318781
>where is everyone finding cheap tools like this, ive been literally unable to so much as find a drill bit set used AT ALL let alone used machine tools

It depends extremely heavily where you live.

I'm in the OC area in California, meaning near the major industrial centers of Los Angeles, Irvine, etc. Plenty of stuff trickles down into the usual channels.

Last thing I picked up was a compressor with an exploded (literally in 6 separate pieces) pump. Ended up chucking the pump, as it was not worth attempting to fix, but still was more than happy at the fact I got a 3HP motor and 60 gallon tank for $50. Around here, stuff like that turns up all the time, if you're patient.

Meanwhile, I've heard tell of people living in the middle of nowhere and only rarely seeing anything other than a broken air conditioner. As much as I dislike living in a major population center like this, I do have to admit the general availability of just stuff in general is a boon.

>>1318397
Building codes vary greatly by area. What locality are you under?

>>1318837
I live in montreal and rarely see tools. granted there isn't a lot of industry compared to high tech/software/service industry, but still, goddamn, even just a sewing machine is like 200 bucks used because no one wants to part with theirs and the few that do go free get mangled into "art"

>>1318847
Suburban Kentucky.

I'll reading generally that single wall needs 6" of space, while double wall is fine as-is.

No clue which I have, but I threw some foam around the walls because why not?

Really can't imagine what'd it even insulate besides sound.

>>1318834
>would there be a noticeably large reduction in the amount of noise which filters through it?
If it's low-density foam it will be barely noticeable. Foam and egg cartons and gimmicky shit like that does not block sound.
Effective soundproofing needs sealing, decoupling, mass, and damping.
-mass: One professional on a soundproofing forum (don't remember which) recommended at least 8lbs per square foot for doors. Thus dense solid wood, or wood and a layer of MLV, or wood and a layer of lead sheet, or a heavy metal security door. The door jamb and hinges will need to be upgraded to handle the weight.
-sealing: Weather stripping can be used to seal air gaps like the crack under the door.
-damping: MLV sandwiched between two sheets of material, or a sandwich made with some other damping compound (e.g. green glue)
-decoupling: applies more to wall construction but still worth mentioning

tl;dr Foam won't work, get a better heavier door.

>>1318868
Rats. Ah well. Thanks, anon.

Im not sure how to ask this as i really thought it would be simple. i have project planed that will be fairly mechanical but all wood construction. after seeing the video below i really want to incorporate a similar style into my project. the problem is i don't know what its called. mechanical but organic with sweeping lines and natural shapes. it almost seems like some kind of wood edition steampunk. i just cant seam to find anything similar. does anyone have any resources or at least a style name?

https://youtu.be/viTlhuKwyKQ

How is a rc motor able to generate thrust in a way that regular dc motor cannot with propellers, is it just rpms?

Not a question, I posted in a different thread looking for suggestions for how to mount a power brick under a shelf. Thanks to the guy who suggested zip tie saddles, turned out pretty good. I'll try to post a pic of the result when image uploading stops shitting the bed

>>1318958

>>1318935
kinematic wood sculpture
>>1318950
Power. A shitty little hobby-electronic kit motor that costs 3 federal burger credits might be able to spin at 15000 RPM when unloaded but it will not have the balls (torque, power) to spin that fast with a propeller attached.
RC motors are mostly just a lot more powerful.
>>1318963
Looks good but would be better if those zip-strap loose ends were cut flush, my dude. Fewer things to snag on.

I want to build ceiling lights from wood and use leds for lighting.

Pic related just longer.

Whats would be the best type of led "lamp" to use?

I was thinking either led tubes, or led stripes (cut to the needed length). At this point i would prefer the tubes because they have a socket, dont need a converter and are easier replaceable than glued strips or something.

Am i correct that i dont need a preceding converter for the led tubes? Is there any other lamp that would be better/cheaper for this application?

>>1319109
or maybe these things which work directly with 220v?

Is there a technical or just normally used term for a corner looking like this?
It’s a chimney running through the building, but I just want to be able to search for ideas on how to work around it in decorating and some kind of term would be useful, thanks.

>>1319109
>At this point i would prefer the tubes because they have a socket
>dont need a converter
Id be careful of that, theyre advertised as not needing a convertor but I stuck some in a brand new shop light and the ballast literally blew up sending sparks everywhere

How to make a jig for cutting and planing pieces for yosegi (japanese patterned veneer)?
Like the ones in this video; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TxvOMHoLRBY
I want to make square ones 8mm wide, or possibly smaller if I can get it accurate.
Also, how to use that jig to plane all sides of the pieces, once the piece gets too after one side, for the plane to get a grip on the other?
Just make it a bit bigger, and plane, turn and alternate until all sides are equal?

Hard mode; I don't have a router, or a circular bench saw, only a regular table saw and handsaw.

>>1319293
Also, how about grain orientation?
I assume end grain is a no-no for the veneer shaving side?

>>1318007
>only 100-300 short of a real tool room machine with 0 bullshit
Never underestimate the bullshit you can get from an old industrial machine (like a broken gearbox in a deckel mill. Such things will run you multiple times the amount you paid for the machine to fix it). You can work around or fix it if you already have a machine shop or maybe even another lathe. If you're just starting it's not a super bad choice (at least not worse than no lathe). One guy on youtube even filed the tailstock to fit. Try that with a tailstock heavier than the complete minimill. Also there's a huge community to help you out. But yes some of these machines are total garbage.

>>1318137
>See the above catalog page I linked
It says 350RPM at the lowest which is way to high for metal work

>I just said it was a lot better than anything you could get from HF for the price.
You can do threading with the cheapest mini lathe and that's what you'll definitely need the lathe for sometimes.

>The only precision involved in an HF tool's construction is the word printed on the box
I don't have the mini lathe but a lot of chinese "precision" tooling and the grinding is mostly perfect (i can't measure the error with my tools). The problems are more in the fit and finish domain.

If you swap out the bearings for precision AC or taper roller, maybe add thrust bearings for the screws (depends on the brand) and rescrape the gibs (if you're lazy you could just pump some moglice for 20 bucks in every way, because the ground surfaces are true) you get a machine much more capable than an old wood lathe. Often the problem with these machines is that the ways only have 3 point contact (if even that). Result is chatter, vibrations and 0 stiffness. If you correct that with scraping or moglice you can take much bigger cuts.

It's perfect for the everyday (small) shop stuff like little washers, pins, threaded parts etc and it can be precise enough when the bearings are ok and the ways are treated as said. You can't just adjust, cut and be done like on a toolroom machine and you have to measure a lot but you can hit 0.01 oder at least 0.02mm with it.

What sort of speaker/subwoofer or similar can I use to blast music to my loud neighbor on the floor below?
I've called the police twice, the first beacuse he routinely plays loud misic at night, the second because he was slamming shit around and (I'm assuming) screaming at his girlfriend; but he still yells (sounds like videogame voice coms) as late as 2 AM. I'm going to whine to the landlord about it and see if he'll slap some sense into him before going through with dropping some sick-nasty beats on his ass.
I'd also like to minimize collateral damage in the form of neighbors to the sides of both of us.
Also taking suggestions for what to blast; currently going with a bass boosted Jellyfish Jam from SpongeBob, a few SoundCloud mashups, I like to move it, and maybe some weirder stuff if it comes to mind.

I have a small system for my TV, but I can't control it remotely. Is there any way to put a controller to it?

>>1319519
Just get some big speakers and subwoofers pointing to the floor and put some electronic music, the bass is going to make him crazy. Or call the police

>>1319523
I suppose I should have asked for brands or """wholesale"""(chinese throwaway tech) sellers.

>>1319519
> act like as much of a nigger as your neighbour
> piss the rest of your neighbours off even harder
> get evicted because you're doing it more obnoxiously with music types that will carry significantly further than voice ever would

You're a real fucking bright spark aren't you champ..

>>1319526
>I'd also like to minimize collateral damage in the form of neighbors to the sides of both of us.
This is kind of a priority, everyone else in this building is chill and quiet so I want to make the noise as directed as I can.
Your hostility is unwarranted

>>1319529
Bass literally travels through the structure of the building. There is no such thing as "directed" bass.
> Your hostility is unwarranted
4chan is not your safe space. Get a helmet or fuck off faggot.

>>1319526
>>1319531
These tee bee cue haych. Strata laws exist. Use them. Gather evidence. Rally your neighbors. Don't be a cunt.

>>1319531
What crawled up your ass and died to make you so upset? Do you need to talk about it? I've got a lap with your name on it, sport.

>>1319533
>What crawled up your ass and died to make you so upset?
The knowledge that I share a board with immature fucks who think the appropriate response to things they don't like is escalation. >>1319532 is right. Act like the fucking adult you are probably not and take him on though strata/tenancy noise laws. Cops have bigger fish to fry than this, your slumlord potentially losing income because of another tenant is another story. Enjoy your last (you), (you) have earned it.

>>1319531
I don't think bass literally travels through a structure.

Prove me wrong.

>>1319536
>I don't think
No, you clearly don't, or you would have googled it before you shot off shit you know nothing about. But allow me to do it for you.
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=does+bass+travel+farther+than+treble
Feel free to tack "structure" onto the end if you still can't put two and two together based on those results.

> Prove me wrong.
I just did.

>>1319539
Well, since you busted out the 'literally', I think it's just sound waves that reverberate along the structure, not bass going through the steel. That's just silly.

>>1319539
Go tell /pol/ that bass melts steel beams.

>>1319539
Directing sound through a solid mass is more complicated than you're trying to make it seem. If I tap my foot on the floor in my unit, the person 2 units away will have no idea.
Though now I'm thinking that it may be more effective to direct the audio at a wall we share vertically as opposed to the floor that is their ceiling due to how the wave/vibration carries.

>>1317930
I'm doing a school project where we have to set up a small company and start selling stuff. We'll be making 3D-printed lamps with pictures in them. The 3D-printed part has been sorted, as is the lamp, now we just need the top and bottom part which will be made out of some nice wood.

We need to cut a round slot in the upper and lower part up the wood, as well as a recess for the lightbulb, and a hole and a slot for the wiring. Could be done by hand, but we're going for a premium product. We want to use our school's CNC router, but that's been offline for two years now.

We've got a budget of about 250 euros: why not buy one of those cheap CNC routers off Aliexpress? I know it's all chinkshit, but we're using a group members own Prusa i3 for the prints, and it's chinkshit too. Quality of the prints is pretty good even compared to the hogged out Ultimaker 2's we've got at school. What should I look out for when ordering this stuff, what features etc.? Should I get a router that barely fits our product (110x110mm), or should I spend the entire budget so we can scale if we need to?

>>1319556
>quality
>kinkshit
>quality
>kinkshit

You're all over the map. Is the wood just for the finial or the base and body as well?

>>1319544
> reverberate
Sound does not echo though materials. And given that timber is a denser material than air and thus is more capable of propagating sound, especially high energy/low frequency waves, then yes, it literally does travel though a structure in a much better fashion than it does through air. It loses energy when it hits more elastic substances like insulation padding and air. This is why we mount bass reflex boxes on rubber stands in the studio environment and pad the fuck out of the walls. We are trying to stop bass bleed out into adjoining studio/console areas via the walls and flooring. Some studios float their entire control room as a "box in a box" for just this reason, complete bass decoupling. It is also why when you hear a gig from a mile away all you can hear is the treble components of the audio but not the bass. The air is too squishy and the wave looses it's bass energy long before it gets to you.
> I think
That's the problem with this fucking board. Everyone "thinks" they're an expert and posts accordingly. Everything I am saying is backed by acoustic theory. You don't even know the difference between propagation and an echo.

>>1319548
> Directing sound through a solid mass is more complicated than you're trying to make it seem
It's really not, as above.
> foot tap
You're talking about a transient, a one off impulse. A sustained wave sets up resonances and standing waves, which can amplify the original source wave under the correct circumstance. Nothing to do with it.
> Though now I'm thinking
You're not though, because you're still being a juvenile faggot who thinks the best solution is pissing everyone else off. But hey, I don't live near you, I don't give a fuck what you do. Just don't be surprised when YOU start getting knocks on the door.

>>1319561
I know that Aliexpress 3D-printers and routers are generally considered chinkshit, but we got that 3D-printer up to our standard with some vigorous finetuning. I'm worried about a CNC router being generally inaccurate for this kind of rough woodworking, or just being plain defective. Volvo is chinkshit too, but their design, QC and marketing is good enough that they make a decent product in the premium car segment anyways.

The wood is going to be the top and bottom, the 3D-printer part in the middle is going to support the top part. The 3D-part looks unappealing without a solid base, and the top need to keep the light in.

>>1319568
How many are you going to be producing for a school project? What's the subject? This may be the most over engineered lamp I've heard of. Here in the states, we just find a few nuts and all thread and use it like a skewer and throw shit on it.

>>1319573
It's for Entrepeneurship: we have to start a company, design a product, and sell it to actual people. We're shooting for at least 25 product in the next three months (that's our break even point), and we've got enough 3D-printers to produce about 100 in that same timespan.

I think it's actually quite simple. We make a stock of top and bottom parts with a pre-programmed CNC router, and when we receive a customer's order we convert that. Print it, and assemble and ship the next day. Assembly doesn't even take 10 minutes, excluding the dry time of the glue.

We tried using a sort of tripod to put the light and 3D-part on, but that let out a lot of light on the top and bottom, which blew out the printed part. We solved that prototype with some cardboard and it significantly improved the quality of the picture on the lampshade. Now, by using a solid wooden base we can easily mount the light, shade and we have plenty of room to neatly tuck away the power cable.

>>1319539
>http://lmgtfy.com/?q=does+bass+travel+farther+than+treble
that's a different effect.

>>1319564
>It is also why when you hear a gig from a mile away all you can hear is the treble components of the audio but not the bass. The air is too squishy and the wave looses it's bass energy long before it gets to you.

Have you ever heard a gig in your life? It's completely the other way around.

I think you are exactly what you try to describe. Thinking you're an expert and pissing everybody else off.

>>1319519
In reality it's a complicated problem and depends a lot on the building itself. The sound will travel through the air and through every structure depending on the materials ability to conduct sound waves. If you have steel heating pipes in your house you may hear someone knocking on them 8 appartments away. In my appartment i can't hear the vacuum and music from the appartment above but i can hear the scratches by the vacuum very loud. You'll need good coupling if you want to get a lot of the energy through the structure (air in between is bad coupling) direct contact is good. You won't really know where it travels though because it completely depends on the building. If the walls and slabs are not coupled really good you and each appartment has it's own slab with like movement joints (not sure if that's the right word in english) in between you may get away with it. My bet would be that you'll disturb your other neighbours exactly in the same way and probably both of you will get kicked out by the landlord.

>>1319556
>We want to use our school's CNC router, but that's been offline for two years now.
>We've got a budget of about 250 euros

Seems to me like reactivating the old router is the best way to go. 250€ won't even get you a decent 3d printer and routing is much much more demanding.

If that's out of the question i'd go with a handheld router, a circle kit and a few endmills and profile cutters (that alone will probably run you nearly the full budget). The part doesn't seem too complicated to do it by hand in nearly the same time.

>>1319592
The teacher responsible for that thing is being an ass. It was supposed to be running a year ago. Shame, because it can be used to make print boards (he teaches electrical engineering), and it's pretty big, about 500x1000mm.

Handheld won't get straight (or true round) results, we tried as all the equipment for that is present at our school. The lab attendant for the 4-axis CNC milling machine got mad when I suggested cutting wood in there, and our waterjet cutter will go straight through instead of making a neat channel. I guess I'll harass the electrical teacher some more.

>>1319595
>Handheld won't get straight (or true round) results

That's why you use an adapter for your router to make true round circles (at least as round as a chink router). Speaker builders use it all the time with great results. Google Router Circle Jig.

As a newbie DIYer what are some of the first things I should learn how to do? I'm also /out/ and /g/

Moved into my first flat and I'm in the process of choosing blinds. I want Venetian ones but I'm not sure on the colour. White looks cheap, black makes the room look really small, what about grey/cream/silver/seine?

Tldr; universally accepted blind colours

>>1318217
anyone

>>1317930
I have a lamp that is rated 12V 600mA and a wall wart that is rated 6V 300mA. Are they compatible?

>>1319698
No, but that doesn't stop people.

>>1319700
So will it run at half amperage? I looked everywhere but I can't find the original adapter. I don't want to damage the lamp. It is a very bright LED lamp that I'm using for painting 40k miniatures.

Knife handle broke away and needs replacing, but first I have to remove these rivet pieces still stuck in the holes. I don't know if epoxy was used but they don't come off easy.

If it's just years of grime/rust holding them there, what solution can I sink the knife in to loosen them? And if they're glued in, what then?

>>1319704
LEDs are not linear devices and depending on the lamp construction it might not light up at all.

>>1319704
Just dig around for a spare car charger or something that fits the bill.

>>1319725
Well, it seems to work, although it's not as bright as I remember (?). It's bright enough for what I need it for. Hopefully it doesn't mess with anything, as I'll need it for a long time.
>>1319729
I already did.

Should I pay a guy $90 to replace 2 of the 5 casters in my office chair? They have a bit of hair in them and it seems like there is no easy way to disassemble the casters.

Maybe if I buy 6 casters with 3 expert installations for $272.67 three guys will come to my house and help each other install two castors while they argue over who gets to be the guy who just installs one.

>>1319714
I'd get some wood and make another handle at that point.

>>1319768
...yes, but as I said, the rivets were broken apart and still stuck in the holes in the metal and I want them out but can't remove them. Any ideas?

>>1319772
Drill them out? Duh!

>>1319774
I don't have a drill here - I have basic tools and chemicals.
I'll try soaking it in vinegar and hope it's just rust holding them there and would break apart.

>>1319522
Depends, define "system"

>>1319623
What do you need done?

>>1318217
They warped as you exposed fresh timber to the atmosphere, and the wood could suddenly dry faster. A general rule of thumb for air drying timber is a year per inch of thickness.
Sometimes you can take the warp out by careful application of water (wipe down with a damp cloth or mist from a spray bottle, help with a hot iron if needed) on concave sections.
Generally, woodworkers try not to leave freshly surfaced timber lying around for exactly the reason you have found.
You can also flatten it with a hand plane, to take down the high spots, but this can remove lots of timber.
Yes, you can use a steel frame, but remember to use elongated (across the grain direction) screw holes in the steel so the wood can move independently of the steel, otherwise the wood can crack.

>>1318553
Ideally it should use an explosion proof fan for extraction, as paint thinner vapor plus electric motor could go bang. For small stuff like you're doing, I'd just go for natural ventilation as you're not going to get the clouds of overspray like you get from a proper spray gun.

>>1319789
>define "system"

a bunch of interconnected parts that break

>>1319536
>I don't think bass literally travels through a structure.

depends on the structure, but it's possible for sound waves to pass through anything.

>>1319191
>Is there a technical or just normally used term for a corner looking like this?

we call them corner corners.

>>1319849
Audio box? Streaming box? The tv itself?

>>1319774
>>1319714

Actually I do have a drill, but the bits are for masonry, not metal. Will they stand the friction with the rivets? Also, if the rivets are held in place with epoxy, will I even be able to remove them?

Any knife makers in the room?

>cleaning room
>see this
Am I fucked?

>>1319866
Looks like water damage to me, but Im probably wrong.

Wall, cieling, or floor?

>>1319869
It's the plywood wall of a big bookcase.
I moved it and the cement wall behind it is flaking paint like crazy.

>>1319873
Ok, so I wasnt wrong then. Water is wicking through your cement wall causing the paint to flake and then spreading to your bookcase.

The house phones all stopped working normally. The digital phone blinks a light that lays line in use. I unplugged them all, looked at the modem and it kept blinking on the telephone light.
I can plug a phone into the modem directly and it works, so I assume the wire normally coming out of the modem leads to some splitters which connect to the other rooms. How can I test further to locate and fix the issue?

Hi /diy/, d/ic/k here.

I have a small screen drawing tablet, and I want to attach my keyboard to it like pic related, with a simple keyboard tray. What items can I use to make such a thing?

>>1319883
Well youve already determined its a connection between the modem and the ports. Unless you can physically follow the wires somewhere like in a basement, youre probably fucked as far as not tearing into walls

>>1319884
A keyboard is light enough you could just glue a clip to the back

>>1319763
GTFO.

>>1319884

>>1319862
>>1319774
>>1319714

OK, after a couple hours in vinegar and rigorous scrubbing and lots of measured force, the broken little shits ain't comint out of the holes in the metal, they're just sticking out 1-2mm out of each end and making each hole narrower. I need to get them out if I ever want to replace the handle. WHAT DO I DO you little pyromaniac blade fetishists, where the hell are you?

If I find a bit for metal with JUST the right size, won't I also enlarge the hole size so I can't use it with regular rivets later? Any chance of breaking the metal of the handle and ruining the knife? I know nothing about this field I do clay pottery most the the time.

>>1319882
So, it's not mould? My biggest worry was if it was black mold or some shit like that.
I heard that shit was like the jewish half-brother of anthrax or something.

>>1319970
Maybe if its fuzzy, but I cant tell that from the picture. If it doesnt feel like mold, its just water from the concrete

>>1319975
There's some fuzz growing from the plywood but thankfully it's not black, more like brown and grey.

>>1319978
Spray it with some isopropyl alchohol, wipe it off, and check it occasionaly to see if it comes back.

"Black" mold is a myth. Any color of mold can be dangerous or harmless

>>1319992
Thanks for the help, anon.

Can i ground car electricals to the chassis? or does it have to have a line back to the battery?

long story short, installing a USB port I used the same ground as the dome light, but in doing so the way the lights are rigged up that ground is only connected if one of the doors are open.

so in short, the USB port (and LED lights) can only be on if a door is open

So can i just earth the USB port to the chassis? or is that too much resistance?

>>1320036
It works when jumping a car

>>1320036
The car chassis is connected to the negative of the battery. They are one in the same. You can connect your USB port to any nearby chassis part, no problem.

>>1320039
Learn to construct a fucking answer you dipshit.

>>1320047
>I am unware of any further details on the matter, but in my previous experience connecting the ground cable to the chassis will allow you to successfully jump a car, so by that logic I may assume that a much lower draw usb port will most likely work using the same concept

>>1320069
The fuck are you talking about son? If anons device is powered by the vehicle battery, they share the same negative. As chassis is connected to negative, in is in effect a giant fucking cable to negative on the battery, thus will serve as an adequate "ground" for his device.

>>1319921
>they're just sticking out 1-2mm out of each end

i'm not a prison shiv fetishist, but if it were me, i'd find a flat piece of softish scrap lumber, like a piece you cut off a pine 2x4. to prep the handle, i'd also soak in coca cola instead of vinegar, it's primarily to provide some phosphoric acid. i'd lay the handle on the wood and lightly tap the protruding rivets with a hammer. don't hit it hard enough to bend the shiv. if the rivets push flat, flip it over and do it again, or pull out with vise grips if loose enough. good luck.

>>1319898
>>1319901
I don't want to damage or leave marks on the tablet in any way, just want something sturdy enough to hold my keyboard on top of it.

>>1320069
>that feel when no one you work with believes you and always insists on connecting leads directly to batteries, increasing the risk of sparks near flammable vapors.

>>1320186
>even on modern cars that have separate, well marked + and - points.
>and it's a fiasco to expose the battery covers.

>>1320186
They only spark if you connect leads in the wrong order. Its seriously not a big deal like people pretend it is.

What IS a big deal is leaving the hot car running when cranking the dead car.
This is damaging to the hot cars rectifier on the alternator and shortens its lifespan a lot.

Run the hot car and rev it up and whatnot for 10 minutes or whatever and then KILL it before you crank the dead car. Its not made for the load of running your engine and cold cranking a whole nother one at the same time

>>1320069
..so you're implying the chassis is *not* connected to the battery negative? Because I have no fucking clue what that has to do with adding a device to the vehicle that requires a positive and negative power connection..

Im making a 10 by 2 counter in my winter veggie room. Whats the cheapest waterproof surface I should buy?

>>1320069
>will most likely work

>>1320115
>thus will serve as an adequate "ground" for his device.
>>1320233
>so you're implying the chassis is *not* connected to the battery negative?

What the fuck are we even arguing? I said it would probably work. You all said it would work. Whats everyone bitching about?

What are some /diy/ approved LED light strips? I'd like to enhance my new living room with color and was curious which is the best bang for the buck.

I wasn't sure where to ask this (is there a board concerning home decor?), but what would be the best way to display these Japanese B5 Chirashi posters? At 7"x10" would it be prudent to just have a bunch of individual frames and let my leveler do the work or look for something that can house 4-6 of these posters?

Is there a putty I can use for prototyping small ridged objects?

Have apartment noise problem that started Saturday

hearing 120Hz hum starting and stopping several times per hour during the day, for about 5-10 minutes each time. It varies that much.

What has that kind of duty cycle?

>>1320449
Off the shelf at most hardware stores:
bondo
jb steelstik or permatex or any similar epoxy putty
epoxy and bulk filler (glass microbeads, wood pulp)
wood filler putty
durham's water putty
plaster of paris
even cement / mortar / grout can work

>>1320470
Old fridge compressor?
someone shaving next door every hour, just to make sure?

>>1320489
Not fridge because it entirely stops at night. Hours vary greatly. I'll poke around more when I have pants on. Can't check roof because the hatch is chained shut. Maybe I can shim that padlock.

>>1320470
Vibrator?

I took a concerta at 8 am, now it's 10pm, I'm fatigued as fuck and I've yet to finish preparing for an exam that's tommorow 11am. I'm not seeing the stuff for the first time but I neither am I done with all of it. What to do?

>>1320497
Whoops wrong tab hehe ignore this post
But like I said im fatigued as fuck

>>1320499
I will not ignore it and want some frame of reference.

>>1320490
Do you have neighbors close by? Could be any type of electrical exercise machine, physiotherapy devices that lift/lower no-mobility limbs etc.. Just ask the neighbors when it starts up.

I'm trying to understand i2c protocol enough to use it but its all a bit heavy for me.

I studied programming and am ttying to shift into microcontroller stuff without arduinos.

What is open drain, pull up, is there a clock frequency that needs to be on the clk line?

Whats a good starting point to understand this

>>1320662
there is both the hardware and the software layer. you need to create the physical link then let both devices that you are trying to connect know how to talk to each other in software. the hardware part is basically just stopping it from releasing smoke demons. you should just follow a tutorial similar to something you want to do with i2c then just copy that for your project.

Is there grades of copper? Like is wire copper harder/softer than copper pipe (impurities or whatever)?

If I wanted to smelt copper to make horse heads for the hilts of puukkos will different copper sources require different temperatures?

>>1320662
>What is open drain, pull up, is there a clock frequency that needs to be on the clk line?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Open_collector -- open drain is in this article
Pull up generally means a resistor, external or sometimes internal to an ic, that pulls the voltage to the high side or positive voltage supply. It's like setting the default value of a signal line.
i2c is clocked and synchronous, which means it operates in step with the clock. You don't "run" the clk line with a steady square wave if you aren't doing anything on the bus.

>Whats a good starting point to understand this
https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/ and the i2c wiki page

>>1320694
Technically yes there are different grades of "pure" copper alloyed with trace amounts of other elements but you don't need to worry about them for your purposes because copper electrical wire and plumbing is going to be 99.9% copper.

>>1320713
Thanks. Now I just need to to figure out a reusable mold design.

>>1317930
stuff like this confuses me I get the part numbers, but its the section zones like A--A or I 7v8 that confuses me to no end, where can I go to learn how to read 1940s Boeing aircraft drawings or stuff like this

>>1320470
>120Hz hum

how do you know it's 120? that's the frequency for full wave rectification.

as far as loud-as-fuck intermittent start-stop, that reminds me of my air compressor. except for the run time is a bit shorter. maybe it's just some jackhammer running nearby.

>>1320747
grab an old drafting textbook if you can find one. should explain most things. but 3-D visualization goes better if you learn by doing.

you also need the whole drawing package to make sense of things. drawings will reference other drawings on anything that isn't simple.

I need to replace an old lath and plaster ceiling which is looking more and more precarious. All I want to know is, can I remove the plaster, leave the laths in place, and put up plasterboard. Or will I have to remove the laths too?

>>1320894
The lath almost always comes down with the plaster, regardless.

>>1320896
Thanks amigo. I've done walls like that before, but never a ceiling that was all.

Doing a project with multiple types of wood and I want to add a stain or polish to it to really make the colors stand out, what you y'all recommend? Pic related is a small piece of it.
Google's given me nothing or perhaps I'm asking the wrong question

>>1317930
How do I fix this darkness in my heart. This knowledge that no matter what I do, how hard I try that the people I love will die one day. How do I find a happy ending in this miserable and mundane reality? What can I do to quell the misery that strikes at my soul with every breath I take?


pls help /diy/ am rly sad

>>1321087
But you'll die too, it's not like everyone you love will die and you'll be stuck with the curse of eternal life. Once you get past the initial existential crisis and do something to occupy your time then your worries will subside. They might come back from time to time, but you already know that you've overcome them once and that you can do it again.
I don't care if you're memeing, I just don't want you, or anyone else, to go full blackpill. You're still our faggot and always will be. You even know that yourself, it's why you asked such a question on a Singaporean dwarf throwing forum rather than a Samaritans live chat. To repeat myself, never go full blackpill. If worst comes to worst, and you feel like the blackpill is the only option available, just think of the people you hate and how happy they would be to see you die. Then continue living purely to spite them.
We're all gonna make it.

I want to try sculpting some shit again

I don't want to buy material and cut down and glue it to size, I want to make it.

are there any 2 part foams that are dense enough to not piss me off if I I use a soda can to make the shape an sculpt? I mean I'm not going to find massive fuck off bubbles that ruin anything I make. does not have to be foam either, just whenever I consider this, I think plaster mold or foam, and with how hard plaster is to work with once hardened, I settle on a foam.

sure I could buy some foam board and glue it, but If that's avoidable It would be for the best, i'm thinking of storage of the material when i'm not using it and space is a premium where I am.

Ive never used a sharkbite before but I want to move my washer without paying a plumber. If I pex / sharkbite it to a different wall, will the fitting leak before it would fail entirely? (Assuming installed correctly)

I dont want to come home 10 years from now and find out the sharkbite popped right off when I left for work.

>>1318240
Are you really that dense?!?!?!
He meant putting toothpicks in the hole where the screw goes. That will make the hole smaller and the screw will hold. I do the same thing while laying tack strip down on terrazzo floors. It helps the nails to stick in the hole and not pull out.

>>1318257
YES
You can test it with your multi meter.

Hi /diy/
I live in an apartment with a picrelated thermostat. The temperature in the apartment seems to have a mind of its own; it didn't really seem like the heat turned on when I cranked the thermostat or turned off when I set it really low.

I was trying to figure out if the thermostat was fucked so I took off the front cover...

>>1321242
Inside the cover...

>>1321243
And behind the cover. My questions:
>What is this coil of metal on the back of the front cover?
>I'm afraid I fucked it up by taking the front face off, did I?
>What do the markings on the wheel ie "LONGER" in the thermostat mean?
>Is there any way to tell whether the thermostat has turned the heat on? I have radiator heat so the radiators are always warm but I can't tell if the heat is actually 'on' outside of my room being way colder than the thermostat indicates.

>>1321244
https://www.honeywellstore.com/store/products/honeywell-standard-heat-only-manual-thermostat-ct50k1002e1.htm

>>1321244
the easiest thing would be to measure the voltage across the two studs you got there and it's on when it's 0.

The metallic springy thing is the thermometer part of the thermostat. it should be okay as long as you didn't bend it too much. You could check by comparing it to a known good thermometer

>>1321244
>Is there any way to tell whether the thermostat has turned the heat on? I have radiator heat so the radiators are always warm but I can't tell if the heat is actually 'on' outside of my room being way colder than the thermostat indicates.

This is a pretty low-end heat only thermostat.
the bi-metallic coil reacts to temp and is somewhat influenced by little switch you can wiggle underneath. There is some kind of switch, maybe mercury switch, behind the "precision switch" plate.

When the switch is switched it connects W (Heat Request) to R (power, probably 24V). The heating system received the power on the Heat Request and does.... something.

However fast the radiator is meant to react and how it responds depends on the system and landlord.

>>1321247
>>1321245
thanks diy

Any tree fellers or woodworkers know of an efficient way to strip bark from frest cut branches and logs?

I've gotten by shaving it off with a knife for smaller stuff, but for larger wood it just takes way too long.

>>1317930
What will happen if i use a steel profile like pic related to keep a oak slab from warping?

The slab is 180 cm long 70 cm wide and 7 cm thick, i want to screw 3 of pic related on the bottom side about a 80 cm apart to keep it straight

I would drill the holes bigger so it can move a little but i just need it to be straight to use it as a table top

>>1321405
That's referred to as "angle" and it would certainly help. You'd better miter the bottom corners because angle and knees don't get on well. You can slice off the corners easily using a cutting disk on an angle grinder, but if poor a hacksaw with a fresh blade will cut surprisingly well. You'd need to debur after cutting. I suggest a "mill bastard" cut file for that as they move a lot of metal and will be an asset to your tool kit.

Check your local steel supplier as they are usually much less expensive than hardware stores. They normally saw to length so you could have them make your non-miter cuts.

>>1321405
You could just seal the entire slab in a resin/polyurethane coat, then the wood won't breathe as such and therefore not warp.

>>1321412
So the wood wont crack if i force it to remain straight?

>>1321432
But thats not the finishing i want though, too shiny

>>1321438
Then buff it to a satin sheen or buy a low sheen finish.
Nothing will stop wood trying to move and cracking unless you reduce or stop it from exchanging moisture, angle iron included.

>>1317930
Should i buy Stihl 180 or Makita 3500?

Can I put router bits in a drill press.

Can woodworking router bits be used for aluminum and/or brass?

I want to dispense somewhat consistent amounts of sugar controlled via electronics.
So far the best thing would likely be a horizontal archimedes screw. (idea was a small one (diameter of 2cm, length of 5-10 cm or something)) but you can't buy them cheap (or at all) and building seems like a lot of effort. Any other good ideas how I could dispense sugar automatically (Those dispensers where you essentially rotate the dispenser wouldn't work)

So I want to restore this work bench I inherited from my dad. Aside from obviously replacing the wheels and top what else can I do?

Id consider painting it if I knew wtf I was doing

I just discovered one outlet in my house is connected to 14 gauge wire, but the fuses are all 20 amp. Am I going to die?

>>1321506
cleaning, sanding, oiling, replacing the wheels. You could give the black frame a new colour.

Can I get you all to double check my backer board install before I go further?

Plane-ed the joists and shimmed a few others with new studs. Left 1/2" gap around the tub. Obviously not finished with the top or the bottom side of the tub.

I think I'm good to go, just my first time and I could use a second set of eyes.

>>1321467
Why not use a long sheet metal screw? You might have to make a tube for it though.

I've got this pressure washer gun that leaks a lot, even when I don't pull the trigger on it. I disassembled it to check if there were any obstructions holding the valve open and it was clean. Why would the valve still be open if there aren't any obstructions and I'm not pulling the trigger?

>>1321467
maybe a timing belt

I have a shop vac that my dad lent to me. He told me that some of the hoses might have cement dust in them since he was using it for cement work earlier.

Can I clean the hoses out and pour the dirty cement water down the drain?

>>1321554
Yes, once cement is hardened its not going to soften and remold itself just from a little water

Just put in a new outlet because old paint and fixtures are ivory and I just painted everything pure white. Yeah, I know I'm a faggot.

Pulled the old outlet and installed the new one. Blacks/whites opposite and same line top and bottom. Had a dumbass moment and broke the separate feed connector because I'm new to this and the instructions showed two wires with it broken off. Realized everything downstream was dead, so I went back to HD for a new outlet and to make a tribute to the fuckup gods. Installed this one correctly (fin intact) according to youtube. Go back to flip the main and POP a spark shoots out of the outlet. Breaker stays up with none switched. I cut the main and checknit out. Flip main again and nothing happens. Check the plugs and both work, check downstream and everything is on. I pull off the plate and theres a carbon stain on the plate but nothing else is affected. Pulled everything out and it all looks fine, no more carbon or melting.

Wtf just happened and what do I need to do?

>>1321547
I considered that, bt what do you call timing belts with "portions"? I'm not a native english speaker and I don't know what keywords I should look for...

>>1318172
>>1318173 here
The table top came out quite well, and I planed the whole thing flat by hand.
Now I'm building the frame, and I could use some input on joints.
Being Norwegian, I'm a big fan of notched joints, so that's what I'm using here too. The work table is not for woodworking, basically just going to be a big heavy table with 6 legs, and I need to be able to remove half of the top and the front supports on one half.

So to get on with it, I'm using notched joints which are working extremely well so far, but now I've reached the tricky part. So far I've made 3-way intersection with 2 parts on top. all to be wedged and glued later. But I also need to make a 3-way intersection with 3 parts, where the top one is to be able to be easily disassembled, any idea for how to do this easily?

Pic related is the ones I've made so far. Forgive my poor sketchup skills, I've never used it before.

>>1321572
So, as you see, part B goes into A, and then C on top of that.
Pic related is one of the finished joints (before final adjustment, cutting and planing).
Pls no bully, I've never done this before.

>>1321575
To make it a bit easier to understand what I'm trying to do, included is a picture of the halfway finished frame. So, on the opposite side I need to be able to remove one of the planks on the long side.

If I want to add a small shelf to my kitchen, can I pick an arbitrary location or do I have to figure out where the pipes and wires are first?

>>1321578
Pipes and electrical lines SHOULD only be ran verticly right out outlets, switches, sinks, etc.

Should. Unless whoever wired your house is a shitter like the guy that did my house and just runs shit wherever he feels like.

Should I ask for one or two shots of black to look like a pro?

>>1321577
My best idea so far is something like this, but I'm afraid that with the cheap construction grade wood I'm using, it will just be flimsy and break off.
Possibly if I make the opposing piece a bit smaller, so I can do like pic related, only a bit wider?

>>1319884
Use the plastic velcro tape from 3M. with a long enough strip... or 2 strips, the keyboard won't even move. It comes in rolls... cut to lenght, peel and stick.

3M DUAL-LOCK reclosable fasteners.

I kept a dog for someone and it would piss in its cage (that was kept here under This bar) and some if it would get on the linoleum, paneling, and carpet. Even though I used spot shot, the odors never went away. That dog is long gone but now my dog thinks this area is his personal fire hydrant. I've used enzyme cleaners and vinegar but nothing will remove the scent (obviously the piss got down into the carpet, pad, and probably the wood floor so I want to rip it all up and replace it but I'm wondering what material I could use for the bar that would repel piss if he doesn't stop this nasty habit. I'll likely replace the 2x4s (or whatever is inside the paneling) with some kind of non-porous material but not sure what to do in place of wood paneling. Perhaps some material like that used on shower walls?

In b4 get rid of the dog. I don't think it's his fault for doing this as the other dog got him started on the nasty habit. But if any dog owners want to chime in, I'll gladly listen
Thanks

I'm needing to replace the filter but I'm not sure which way the arrow needs to go. I Googled it and it said "towards The furnace" so just to be sure, my arrow needs to point down?

>>1321717
Yes, your furnace is a downflow and filter arrow should point down

>>1321718
Thanks! I had it the right direction all along. I never understood why it mattered. Is it literally just to keep the filter from blowing apart? (Metal wire is on the underside in my filter's position)

>>1317931
if you can find an old Logan 10x24 or similar bench-top machine, you will be worlds ahead. Even if its clapped out or missing attachments, parts and accessories can be had fairly cheap. Still wish i had mine for little shit, its a hassle to set up tiny work on a big machine sometimes.

Would a stepper motor and a pulley-belt system be able to push-pull 1-5kg of load up and down at varying speeds, 0-2m/s? And when stopped hold the given load?

Whelp /sqt/, this has me fucked. I snatched up a pair of legs from a rotted out work horse on a curbside and bolted them to a chunk of timber left over from another project, but the thing is not sitting straight as visible on the front right leg in pic related. I have checked;

> all legs are the same length
> legs on left same distance apart as legs on right (blue lines)
> diagonal lengths are the same (red lines)
> legs assemblies are square to the timber (green lines)

Doesn't matter if it's on the bench, the floor, or on grass outside, the thing wobbles like a motherfucker. What the fuck?

>>1321943
Ooher, forgot to mention, timber is straight as a die as well, no twists or warps that my eye can see.

>>1321943
turn it upside down, measure the shortest leg straight up, mark that height on the other legs and cut them.

>>1321959
>shortest leg straight up
You mean like pic related? I guess I should also take the angle of each leg from center to see if they all match up as well.

>>1321963
Well there you go then, these stands were clearly welded together by a potato. Three legs match, one.. Potato as fuck. Still keen to confirm that the paint pic is what you >>1321959 meant though, good to know if so. I get real nervous doing off the cuff cuts when I don't understand why shit was wrong to begin with.

>>1321963
if you just want it to stand straight you should do as pic related, maybe cut a piece of wood that length and use it to scribe the height on all the other legs, just cut them on that length

>>1321980
Yeah, I measured as suggested and surprise surprise, the potato leg was 18mm short. I'll take a cutter to it when it's not 11:30pm. Would never have thought to take a measurement like that, thanks for your help anon.

I am going to build a hobbit house,

Can i glue underlayment together and use a router to create a round doorframe for the door?

I`m going to make a grow set up to grow a strawberry in a bin under my desk, grow led chips, psu, fans and shit. Are these connectors a good idea to splice wires?

>>1322313
Those taps are vile, evil insecure things and don't do well around humidity. I've removed a shitload of them from aborted car audio installs.

Fortunately bare crimp splices and connectors are stoopid cheap on Ebay and you can get mixed packs to experiment with. Heat shrink tubing is also dirt cheap in bulk. Avoid the heavy sleeved auto store splices. You'll get a secure, cheap, neat and flexible result. Crimped connectors and pins are good enough for jet fighters and they'll serve you well.

Example good searches. Ignore the caps:

>Butt Splice Wire Connectors Copper Bare Tinned Crimp

>ring terminal Connectors Copper

>heat shrink tubing bulk

A hair dryer or heat gun (cheap is fine) works nicely to shrink tubing. Crimp tools are plentiful or go match one up at your hardware store. If poor the cheap ones work if you are careful.

Search Youtube using "crimp splice" for vidyas.

>>1322331
Thanks anon, it`s because I`m buying a 60w power supply for the leds from aliexpress and the vendor has those connectors for selling. I will buy a chinesium 3 dollar crimper from the chinks and some butt splicers. (A shitty crimper here in brazil costs 80 dollars what)

>>1321690
I did a little digging to see just how bad it is. Much to my surprise, it's pretty clean behind the sheet rock (I originally thought it was just paneling) the backside of the sheetrock is stained with urine, I used an enzyme cleaner but I plan to just replace all of it. The structure is made of 1x's so they'll be easy to replace (may as well). The problem is that there is a small groove where the urine got to the floor. I wonder if it's possible to replace a small section of floor. Basically I want to replace a section of floor (perhaps 2x2'), the 1x's, sheetrock paneling, the whole room of carpet, and the small section of linoleum. Is there a better option For materials? Do any pet owners think that with all the urine stained materials gone, the dog will stop pissing in this spot?

I want to try making a flute out of pvc, would it be safe if I need to have my lips partially in contact with the edge?
Any other suggested materials?

not really do it yourself, but i don't know where else to ask. how much will it cost to move this electrical post about 20 feet away? i want to fit a mobile home in the space

>>1322429
Sure. it will cost what local professionals charge for that job in your area. Since you have not provided any information about what things cost where you live that is as close as we can get.

Call around and get at least 3 estimates. That is the absolute minimum. I once got 10 estimates on a job simply because the first 5 people I contacted were all over the map on price and time to completion. Make sure they are okay with being paid after the work is done. Never pay up front. Make sure they are licensed and bonded. Your insurance won't pay shit if you had electrical work done by Juan from in front of Home Depot and your place burned down. Check review sites like Yelp and Angie's List before you higher someone. Sometimes they are cheap because they do shit work.

>>1322431
i appreciate your response. sorry i didn't even think to say where i'm from. north houston area. i called one company and they said about $700-900. don't know if that's in the ballpark but i will get more quotes. thanks again for your help

>>1317930
How to get rid of ants?
I found them under kitchen furniture and vacuumed them, poisoned them, sealed them... Now I found they go under plinth.
What do? Seal them and forget? Remove all plinths poison them and seal? Or any good chemical shit?

Never had a problem with ants before, because I lived in apartment...

>>1322493
Or can I WD-40 them? WD-40 is good penetrating fluid, and it somewhat neutral to paint.

Want to buy a flux core welder to build a weight rack.

Whats a decent one to get started with?

>>1321943
Australia?

>>1322558
hobart, lincoln, miller

>>1321572
Pls respond

>>1322493
with ants, you have to destroy the ant generator, also known as the queen. you do this by tricking them into poisoning her. so you put out a bait, and they take it back to the queen, she eats it and dies.

>>1322562
Fucken' oath maaat. Soundwave hoodie on the chair gave it away?

>>1322493
There are some poisons you put that kills the fungii they eat. Atleast here in brazil I use those and it`s 100% effective, with the exception of the evil red ant.

>>1322331
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DSHA-New-Hot-Yellow-Black-Plastic-Handle-Wire-Stripper-Cutter-Crimper/32701671007.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.231.569f15d2zOfMrB&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10065_10344_10068_10547_10342_10343_10340_10548_10341_10084_10083_10618_10615_10307_10313_10059_10534_100031_10103_441_10624_442_10623_10622_10621_10620_10142,searchweb201603_36,ppcSwitch_5&algo_expid=0a5734f1-e081-49ef-8727-10ce6981da91-37&algo_pvid=0a5734f1-e081-49ef-8727-10ce6981da91&transAbTest=ae803_4&priceBeautifyAB=1
Is this capable of crimping those connections?

>>1322567
>>1322590
Thanks.

I wanna buy a good black cutting mat. Any brand works fine?

>>1322657

>>1319790
Everything. I want to reduce my need for money like Varg.

>>1322670
math

>>1322683
I know how to do math.

>>1322686
Math like linear algebra, calc, linear diferential eqs.. Also waves and transforms, if you learn how to deal with peridiocity and waves you will feel comfortable dealing with anything.

>>1322687
Why's that?

>>1322689
because honestly it gives a beachhead in electronics, possibly programming, and doing math to improve your shit. Math gives power over stuff and helps you save money or avoid stupid decisions. I probably saved 50$ by choosing the best brand and pill ammount/dosage of medicine for my period. I just did linear optmization, labs give diferent discounts if you buy 1,2 or 3 dosages of concentration y or x. 15 minutes of search and a graph saved my 50$. This kind of stuff.

>>1322692
That is very convincing. Thank you.

>>1322692
And by period I mean period which i`ll take the meds. I`m a male (male) unfortunaly.

>>1322697
>unfortunately
I consider that to be fortunate.

>>1322703
I`d like to be a slutty hot lesbian under-age girl for ever.

>>1322705
wew lad

What are my options to provide solid coverings to my office windows that open to the living room. Looking for something that can be opened or removed easily from the inside.

I was given a box with about 55 black 5x7 frames. very basic looking. i don't really do art or interior clutter so ive been trying to think of a more functional use. i just dont want to throw out 60+ dollars worth of frames.
any ideas?

Im making a mirror frame for a friend of mine and it's heavy. about 55lbs.

I bought 3/4" walnut which should be more than strong enough itself, but I'm thinking of routing in steel L brackets in the corners. Do they make half inch or so wood screws so I don't pop out the front? Anything that would do better?

>>1322769
pic related or what?

What's the best way, short of drilling them out, to remove these stud things?

>>1322784
you mean rivets?

drill is best
grinder
you could try a chisel
or spend a long time with a file

>>1322784

if the metal is soft, you can use a side cutter to cut under the lip on the RHS photo.

>>1322670
>Everything
Well pick one thing you need to do and look up how to do it

>>1322784
RIP shaded pole motor

>>1322802
Well, it's not working so I figured it would be best if I took it apart and tried to see what the issue was.

>>1322772
No, just an inlay I did a while back.

>>1321541
Worn mating surfaces or O rings. Maybe the spring isn't helping it seal initially enough for the pressure to hold the seal shut itself. Try pushing backwards on the lever.

>>1321575
>>1321577
What about a wedged through tenon? Remove the wedges and it all comes apart.

I need to smoothly cut lexan, I was told to use laminated blade saws, but they are hella expensive, starts at $80.

Are there other alternative?

Is a shooting board the best tool to make precise 45* miters on a 6' 8" board? Seems like that would be unruly.

Probably 5" deep and 3/4" thick of walnut if that makes a difference.

>>1322848
I considered using wedges, but I don't see how that could work in my scenario.
Thanks for the input tho.

Got alil problem you guys might beable to help with.
When I switch to HDMI or component (y/pb/hr, whatever) mode I can get a picture on my TV. But when I switch to TV mode I get a black screen but with sound. Now when I autotune the screen is still black even though it should be showing static. I think something on the board must have gone bust. Any explanation as to what could be wrong? Or how much I can expect to get it fixed?

Also sorry I googled but all the results end up about black screen and sound and not my specific issue

>>1322849
festool saw

I have a persistent smell of very strong garlic in my room (I hate garlic, probably a drunk housemate). I've cleaned the carpet twice with different odour products but to no avail. I'm not asking you to find the smell, but anything I could douse my room in to overpower/remove the stench? I'm thinking petrol

>>1323379
>Should I dose my room in gasoline?
Make your shitpost less obvious.

In case you still want a real answer though, leave a lot of open containers of baking soda around

>>1323383
the fuel part was a joke, but it is a very real problem. I'll try the baking powder, cheers

>>1323384
sorry baking soda, different thing

Loctite or locking (tab) washer?

This is for a crank pulley. Book says tab washer. My lazy ass doesn't want to wait a fucking week for 1 washer to turn up.

>>1323379
atleast you dont have vampires

>>1323388
both

>>1323379
I don't know how popular it is outside of Murica
the original Listerine in a spray bottle

>>1323399
I imagine that won't do much good for the paint on the walls but I suppose I can avoid them

>>1323388
Both

>>1323379
I learned to "smudge" rooms with smoldering wintergreen leaves to refresh rental properties and my own home. Remove or cling-wrap any smoke detectors. Forget the new agey shit, but wintergreen kicks ass for that job. I just buy leaves and use a large metal pot to hold them.

I'm trying to find a sturdy, clear polycarbonate, or similar 12"x16" cloche.

So far I found a bunch of small plastic ones, or large glass ones.

I need a large one made from plastic, as glass is too fragile.

Can anything help me find one?

Pic related

anyone know what these are?

>>1323469
>glass is too fragile
Like for what? Bitch glass is stronk as fugg.

>>1322843
The thing is almost brand new so it can't be wear. Maybe you're right about the spring though, it seems like it pushes the ball that seals it to the side of the valve body. How would I fix that though?

do small engine stators make ac or dc power?

>>1323504
for wearing over your head.

also i need to drill holes into it.

>>1323332
eh, something on the cheap.

I have a power saw, grinder, drill, dremel

I just need to make a few straight cuts without melting the lexan or fucking up the edge.

Is it possible for glass to bend under pressure

>>1323595
yes, the thinner glass the bendier.

>>1323600
It's quite thick actually

>>1323601
thick glass might flex slightly by a few thousandths of an inch but maybe not enough that anyone would say it bends.

>>1323602
Idk it's quite noticeably bent. You think it's likely to break because of it?

>>1323575
i think any circular saw with a guide will do

What would it take to use compressed air to blast a hole in sand or soil from 1meters away?

Would this require a special nozzle or just stupid amount of pressure?

What sort of ink or dye would be relatively harmless when smoked? I have this idea for decorating rolling papers and cigs but I want them to still be usable for their intended purpose.

Inb4 crap about how smoking is bad no matter what. No shit Sherlock

>>1317930
Is it possible to resurface the surface of the inside of a tap that the washer bears against? No I do not own a milling machine nor do I own a suitable endmill.

>>1324190
Food colouring is probably the best idea for some nice bright colours, but either way I'm not sure if the girl scouts will buy into it.

>>1323379
>>1323468

try peppermint oil. we use it to hide the smell of poop in rooms where the patient has a rectal tube, etc. Also, coffee grounds hide smells well, just don't stain your carpet with coffee.

The house I'm going to rent doesn't get much sunlight in certain areas. What kind of globes will make it more bearable?

>>1324190
We used to do this, but depending on how dan..damp.. your smokables are, the colours tend to go off real quick for some reason. I mean yeah, the airstream is steamy and damp, but why it fucks the colours up we never knew.

Is stuff like knitting and sewing allowed here or is that too faggy?

>>1324253
> is that too faggy?
Who gives a fuck what other people think?

We occasionally have crochet and knitting threads, also this anon right here >>1308234. Ask away you stick twiddling faggot.

I'm moving inot a new apartment in about a month and wanted to have a lighting set up that allowed for some diffeent colors, mainly pinks and blues liked this picture. Should I just buy a few Philips Hue lights or would I be able to get this effect using some gel filters?

Bought this axe, should it be heat treated before use?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-5-lb-Single-Michigan-Bit-Axe-with-34-in-Hickory-Handle-34198/204168071

Bought this axe, should it be heat treated before use?

can someone tell me how this kind of finish is called and how to make it?
The Metal is Steel

>>1324324
Call 1-888-HD-HUSKY and ask.

>>1324363
I'm not 100% sure on that tool, but my guess would be bluing, it's common on guns and such too. As far as how to make it, just search for bluing steel.

>>1324018
stupid amount of pressure and volume... no nozzle is going to direct "regular" shop air in such a way that it can blast a hole in soil 1M away
why 1 meter. you building an agriculture robot?

>>1324380
>an agriculture robot
That was the idea, i was just wondering, im not building one.

>>1324271
RGB led strips > Philips jue

there are a bunch of 8p8c jacks on the walls around my house
I thought if I were to connect a cable from my switch to any wall jack, they would all receive a network connection.
This doesn't appear to be the case.

On further research, it would seem only one specific jack is to be used as the main connection to the switch, and that is the one that needs to be connected for all ports to have a network connection.

Am I correct, or am I doing something wrong?

I might get a job at a foundry is there anything I should know about working in one, or anything I can say in the interview to increase my chances? I know the basics of melt metal>skim slag>mold>finish.

>>1324403
Each jack you want to use needs to be connected to your router or switch or hub.

The wires cannot be commonly wired with each other and function as Ethernet which would be similar to how you thought they might work.

If you talk about the 'main' connection for the switch, that sounds like the upstream port, which would be towards your ISP, not towards your computer.

>>1320771
>the frequency for full wave rectification
I can't think of any loads that would run off a bridge rectifier without (adequate) filtering to get it to make that noise. Maybe it's instead a 60Hz transformer or something that happens to have a 120Hz resonant frequency? Either way, download audacity or some other audio analysis software so you can FFT what your mic picks up and see if there's a 60Hz and/or a 120Hz band.

How do I measure for replacement windows, especially with this aluminum track in the way.

So I have a dog.
She's an old unassuming spaniel that keeps to herself even when she's out on the beach with other dogs and the like.
Anyway, my neighbour had been feeding this stray cat for months and then my neighbour up and died.
The faggot cat has now decided it likes my dog's kennel and keeps going into it.
My dog is scared of the cat and I keep coming home to find my dog shivering in the rain and the cunt cat in her kennel.
I keep chasing the fucker off and soaking it with the hose but it keeps coming back and I can't chase it off when I'm at work all day.

Is there anything I can put in the kennel that would repel the cat but that my dog wouldn't mind or should I give the cat a few kicks every time I catch it?

Any tips or worthwhile literature for operating a press brake? I know Google exists, but I much prefer people's personal experience.

>>1324908
Contact local animal control to humanely remove feral cat

There's a gap between the track my shower doors run in and the shower basin itself. The gap is different sizes in different spaces due to the house settling more on one side. Water is leaking through that gap. The previous solution was a lot of caulk, but now that's not lasting very long because the gap is too large. Any ideas for more permanent solutions?

>>1324759
Are you measuring for a contractor or putting the windows in yourself? The contractor is probably just checking to see if you're opening in close to a standard size. Just give him a close measurement and he'll make the windows fit. If you're doing it yourself, pull the track out and get a modern window slightly smaller than the opening.

>>1325324
I'm going to order them and put them in .... at least that's the plan.

>>1317930
Building a table as a complete beginner.

Tools I have:
>circular saw
>sander
>decent drill

Need to know:
>general tips
>types of wood to get/avoid
>things I can't go cheap on/miss

What are some cool things i can do with a 14" CRT monitor?(without salvaging the parts inside)
Looking for excuses to buy one.
I might do a basic home automation project using an arduino,some relays and a bunch of sensors,maybe I could use the TV to monitor values or something?