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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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1315924 No.1315924 [Reply] [Original]

This is glued up and secure, no flex. What is best way to make flat?
I have a cheap 1 hand power sander that barely does anything to the oak.
The lighting makes it look worse than it is but what happened was I used a biscuit cutter and didn't get the cuts perfectly level so the boards aren't quite parallel.

>> No.1315925
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1315925

>>1315924

>> No.1315927
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1315927

>>1315925
Table is like 10'. All the ones I found for sale at these dimensions were too expensive for me.

>> No.1315931
File: 1.58 MB, 4032x3024, IMG_2893.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1315931

>>1315927

>> No.1315946

>>1315924
Large hand plane, strong arms, and lots of patience.
Good luck

>> No.1315948
File: 17 KB, 336x336, FCS-ClarkeAmericanSanders-SquareBuff-large-01-A.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1315948

I rented a square sander after I put glued up my maple butcher block counter tops. I started with 20 grit, and went to 100 with the square sander, then went to 150 with my palm sander, then went to 220 by hand. It took all day, but I liked the results.

>> No.1315950

belt sander son

>> No.1315970
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1315970

>>1315946
Was thinking this

>>1315948
Did not know about this, might look into a tool rental place if there's one around here.

>>1315950
I don't understand


Thank you all for the information!

>> No.1315973

Learn your lesson and make sure the cuts are accurate before hand; now buy a power planer.

>> No.1315976

>>1315924
What grit are you using on the sander?

>>1315973
I use one, but practice on scrap beforehand - otherwise you'll ruin it. And I guarantee you'll still have planer marks.

I mean, I guess you could engineer some sort of jig for the power planer, but... man, I don't know.

>> No.1315977

>>1315976
Idk, "extreme removal" is what it said, maybe 40 grit? It does virtually nothing but my sander is super low rate too, like a $15 vibrating sander.

>> No.1315982

>>1315977
Hm. Well, a decent random orbit sander will cost roughly the same as a power planer, and should allow you to finish the project, instead of creating new issues to resolve - which I suspect is what a power planer will do in this case.

Have to admit, I've not sanded large areas of oak, but a sander should take you from here to applying a finish.

>> No.1316026
File: 70 KB, 1024x498, Step4-1024x498[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1316026

>>1315924
Save yourself a lot of hassle and build yourself a router jig to plane the surface.

>> No.1316036
File: 67 KB, 386x276, 295733c6d1fc301ccb9f3c913c54cf47[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1316036

>>1316026
On second thought, if those bread boards aren't functional, just scrap the whole thing and learn about wood movement. Or leave it and learn about it in the not to distant future.

>> No.1316104

>>1316036
>if those bread boards aren't functional
I don't even understand what you mean.
I've got this thing stuck together pretty good imo?

>> No.1316185

>>1316036
/thread

>> No.1316187

>>1315924
WOW
How did you get those so uneven?
No mortis and tenon on the bread board?

I would cut them apart and re glue
Add floating tenons and peg the bread boards.
That would solve the gaps you have too.

>> No.1316195

>>1316104
Breadboards look like that to allow expansion of the table boards. Look at >>1316036
Picture. Only the center is glued. The sides are pinned, but the pin has room to slide.

>> No.1316261

>>1316187
It's not quite as uneven as it looks and I did not have an appropriately flat place (apparently) to lay out the boards when I used the biscuit cutter or something idk. The light is shining straight down across it though which makes it look a little worse than it is but yeah, it's not great. The gaps are a real thing. I might paint a pin strip over it, idk.

>>1316195
Yeah, I don't know what I'm doing, it's true. I can tell you that a little more bracing to the legs and that the table has 120 screws and 3 full bottles of wood glue on it. As picture here >>1315925 it was 2 full bottles. If the wood shrinks, expands, whatever then I'm fucked but I'm also going to be sealing it up. Where what I'm gathering is the "bread board" meets the long boards, there is a board under it that you can see here >>1315925, >>1315927 that is half on the bread board and half not, screwed in place excessively and glued excessively. If you look at the number of cross boards I've used, the fact that there are biscuits, the fact that it's a solid 10' board running down the side they're both screwed to, are you telling me they'll still pull apart?

>> No.1316264

>>1316261
no no, the screw will hold it fine.
people just go through the painstaking task of building proper breadboard ends because they are stupid and dumb.

>> No.1316265

>>1316264
Buddy, when I came here to ask advice, I didn't even know what a "breadboard end" was, never heard the term. It's a different kind of table anyway as mine has a frame running all the way around it. The workmanship isn't great because I don't have the tools or expertise. I think it'll hold up just fine though. If it doesn't, then I'll cover it in fiberglass and paint it or something, idk. At this point it's a done deal.

What I did do today was go out and look at power planers and belt sanders based on this thread. I ended up getting a Hitachi belt sander for like $130 that hopefully doesn't suck. When it's done, I'll post pictures just for you. If it breaks eventually, I'll post pictures of that too so you can keep feeling smug and superior with your little bit of specialized knowledge.

>> No.1316307
File: 2.57 MB, 1378x1084, Screen Shot 2018-01-18 at 1.16.44 AM.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1316307

>>1315924
You really want to fix this?

Make a jig and stick a router with a wide bit on there to plane the whole table to a level top.

>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z9ECXZulTDU

>http://www.finewoodworking.com/2011/09/29/level-big-slabs-in-no-time-flat

>> No.1316380

>>1316307
Thank You

>> No.1316538

>>1316261
>hat is half on the bread board and half not, screwed in place excessively and glued excessively. If you look at the number of cross boards I've used, the fact that there are biscuits, the fact that it's a solid 10' board running down the side they're both screwed to, are you telling me they'll still pull apart?

Look I tried to be reasonable and give good advice. Yes, I'm telling you it's going to move. With the natural changes in moisture the boards are going to want to expand mostly width wise. Look at the breadboard picture I posted. See how it allows for this movement?

>Buddy, when I came here to ask advice, I didn't even know what a "breadboard end" was, never heard the term. It's a different kind of table anyway as mine has a frame running all the way around it.

Not to ding your precious ego but you done fucked up. You admit you didn't how to build a tabletop then proceed to say that it'll be fine because it's different. Are you a fucking apple fanboi or something? What you done is glued and screwed a shit load of wood that wants to move in all directions now. It's not going to keep it from moving it's just going to fail in new and exciting ways

> Buddy, when I came here to ask advice, I didn't even know what a "breadboard end" was, never heard the term. It's a different kind of table anyway as mine has a frame running all the way around it.

Like I said it'll be lesson in wood movement. I had to learn the hard way too. But my lesson was before the internet so at least I could claim ignorance to some degree.

>What I did do today was go out and look at power planers and belt sanders based on this thread. I ended up getting a Hitachi belt sander for like $130 that hopefully doesn't suck.

You dun goofed again. A router and jig is the way to go. Belt sanders are really hard to produce a nice flat surface over that much area. They gouge and remove material at an alarming rate. For someone of your experience I doubt it will go well.

>> No.1316589

>>1316538
Listen IDGAF what's done is done and it ain't changing now. Be like this guy >>1316307 and give good advice, instead of berating me.

>> No.1316597

>>1316589
Haha wtf you're not me but yeah, ditto. That's what I was trying to say to him.

>> No.1316603

>>1316307
>making the entire thing out of wood instead of buying cut aluminum extrusions and corner brackets and taking all of 30 minutes to put it together and maybe an hour for any adapters you need to make

I don't know about you but not everything needs to be a huge time sink. They're like 6 bucks a meter

>> No.1316611

Ignore the haters OP. It's just a workbench and it's going to get beat up anyway.

>> No.1316619

>>1316265
I'll feel smug and superior regardless.
The frame running around it will also cause restriction in wood movement.
Get educated and don't cry when people make fun of your stupidity.

>> No.1316622

>>1316619
Restrictions in movement is what I was going for. Maybe it'll be under so much tension that it just spontaneously explodes one day killing everyone in the room.

Look, you might be right but I think you're exaggerating the way someone does when they have more book learning than real experience. If it ever splits, ever, I'll post pictures that day. Wait for them, are you waiting? Okay keep checking for it everyday.

>> No.1316625

>>1316622
>when they have more book learning than real experience

so now you're saying that everyone in this thread is wrong?

denial ain't just a river in france, anon. Your head is so far up your ass that when your table explodes you won't feel a thing.

>> No.1316633

>>1316622
You're under the mistaken impression that i care if your table falls apart.
i don't
i'm simply telling you why it's wrong, how to fix it and why you're stupid.

>> No.1316659

>>1316633
That's not really true though. You told me why it's wrong, thank you. You told me how it should have been, thank you. You didn't really give a "fix" and you were demeaning and rude about. You have an ego problem, probably narcissistic.

>> No.1316666

>>1316659
Just entered this thread, none of the guys you're replying to but just wanted to say you're awful cocky for an obvious retard. You've been given some sound advice ITT, take it, be grateful from it, and learn from your mistake. No need to sperg out about it, fag.

>> No.1316669

>>1316659
Dude, you have the collective knowledge of our entire species at your fingertips, yet you just decided to wing it instead of reading up on how do do such a thing properly. Then you come begging for a quick fix. You aren't clever, friend, and that guy has plenty of reason to treat you derisively. Go read some shit and learn the easy way...

>> No.1316723

If the legs can come off. I’d see if there is a local cabinet shop with a surface planer wide enough to run it through.

>> No.1316732

>>1316723
Thank you, they can't though. They're brace into place six ways to Sunday. Even if they could I'd have to rent a truck. I'm probably going to do the router jig thing that the nice people recommended if the belt sander doesn't seem to be going well and level checking right off the back.

>> No.1316736
File: 68 KB, 600x498, Timber-Expansion.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1316736

>>1316622
See you next weekend op. Pic related.

Don't wood work drunk/high. You are fucking around with dangerous tools and could get really hurt. You're lucky yo only fucked up your wood. You thought you would be okay and it would just be relaxing and take the edge off.

The truth is you totally fucked up all your nice wood because you were high, and you're trying to play it off like you're just too busy to hold a biscuit jointer straight.

>> No.1316741

>>1316736
Also, here. You can figure out how bad its gonna be and if you want to redesign or not

https://www.popularwoodworking.com/tricks/how-to-calculate-wood-shrinkage-and-expansion

>> No.1316913
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1316913

>>1316741
>how bad its gonna be

and woodworking seems so easy...

>> No.1316923

>>1316913
Does it matter at all that it's the pre-planed premium diy full msrp oak from lowes?

>> No.1316938

>>1316923
It's kiln dried.

>> No.1316943
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1316943

>>1316938
>It's kiln dried.

and that's good, since you should always use seasoned wood. but if you read the link in >>1316741 the problem is if you live in an area where the humidity varies much then your wood will shrink and expand.

I hate painting six-panel doors because the seams around the six panels will always be screwed up a year or so later, and some people seem to think there's a magical way to prevent that.

>> No.1316945

>>1316943
Oh well, thank you. Tables built, just a ton of sanding and stuff but it is what it is. Will let you all know when/if it splits.

>> No.1316953

>>1316036
Truef

>> No.1316967

>>1316945
Show us a picture after you smooth the ridges.
I’m interested in seeing the final results.

>> No.1317593
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1317593

get a 6 hand planner or a scrub planner, work slow.

If you never used hand planner, practice on some furring strip. It aint that hard. If your plane is sharp you don't even need to sand. before finish. Try to get the furring flat on one side, then square up an adjacent side with a square. Then work on the other two faces. Once you get a perfect square strip, you can try working on your table.

>>1316307
this works too, but power tools can eat too much wood too quickly.

>>1315924
>>1315925
>>1315927
>>1315931
why are there stickers on the wood? Did you just buy the wood, then glue together? You are supposed to square up the boards first.
We've all been there, so don't be embarrassed. My first coffee table, I didn't square shit up, and while it looked nice it wobbled.

>> No.1317621

>>1317593
>why are there stickers on the wood? Did you just buy the wood, then glue together?
Yes
You are supposed to square up the boards first.
I don't have the tools for proper wood working and just wanted a 10' long table for people to sit at that didn't cost thousands. I've already started with the belt sander and fucked up 1 corner by not realizing I was on the bottom of the board with the tool, shaved it down pretty thin. It's all jacked up. The table doesn't wobble at all though. The legs are at least straight and consistent. I've sanded more, it'll be okay. The table is going to be... "rustic" but it'll be level, solid and suitable for hanging out at.

>> No.1317632
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1317632

>>1317621
The corner

>> No.1317633
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1317633

>>1317632

>> No.1317654
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1317654

>>1317621

Looks like you are into wood working, so here is a list of things you''ll need, from a hand tool perspective.

-hand plane. #4 and #5.
-chisels
-combination square or machine square (pec tools is good n not too expensive)
-hand saw unless you have a table saw.
-mallet
-diamond plates for sharpening.
-honing compound, and leather strop.
-pencil
-marking gauge.
-also lots of clamps. (you could make your own)
-winding sticks

the above total should be around $300 or so, cheaper if you ebay the planes and saw. There are sellers that sell refurb 100 year old saws and planes.

I do admire that you actually built the table, and just messed up a little bit. (it actually looks nice, cept the juxtaposition of the rough top and smooth legs). You could repurpose the table into a work bench, and use that to build your second table that will be squared, and smooth n pretty.

Nice thread with pics!

>> No.1317666
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1317666

>>1317654
>repurpose to workbench
Likely at some point but for now it's for board games cards and bourbon and thanks for the list.

>>1316967
Done sanding

>> No.1317669
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1317669

>>1317666

>> No.1317671
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1317671

>>1316967

>> No.1317677

>>1317654
Any quick and easy suggestions for the legs? I was going to stain the top and paint the legs flat black and just pretend they weren't there.

>> No.1317691

>>1317677
>flat black

flat black will show scuff marks that probably won't wash off. I'd go ahead and use semi-gloss which will be more durable and is washable and won't get marked very easily, unlike flat paint.

or at least go with egg-shell sheen. flat black will look awful after a few shoes have barely rubbed against it.

>> No.1317700

>>1317691
Thank you for the tip! I will semi-gloss.

>> No.1317704

>>1317633
looks like shit
once you clear coat it all those scratch lines will be really noticeable, but i guess it will match all the gaps and cupping once the wood on your shitty table acclimates.

>> No.1317723

>>1317704
I hope things get better for you.

>> No.1317726

>>1317723
Nice projection kid
I call it like it is.
not my fault if you can't deal with it :^)

>> No.1317729

Threads like this make me not want to come here anymore

>> No.1317736

>>1317729
don't
You seem to have trouble articulating your thoughts anyway and aren't really contributing anything. I doubt anyone will notice.

>> No.1317738

>>1315924

Did you run the wood through a jointer or planer before assembling it?

>> No.1317744

>>1317723
Hes right. Thats going to need a lot of sanding.

>> No.1317747

>>1317738
>>1317744
No, people. I just bought a bunch of wood, glue and screws at Lowe's and started gluing it all together. I didn't even draw out plans first. The 8' boards I bought were too short for my liking so I put 12x1's on the ends. My answer to everything was to put more glue and cross boards on it with more screws. The table literally has 120 screws and 3 full bottles of wood glue in it.
>You didn't know what you were doing and it's going to shrink and pull apart
Yeah, probably.
>but you're a stupid piece of shit
not helpful
>you can make it a workbench
That's a good idea. Probably, I will when it pulls apart if it pulls apart. I need a nice workbench anyway.
>You should spend a few more hours sanding it
why? Why do you think I should do that?

Here's another question for you guys. Do you ever go to a bar or smokehouse and the tables have this really thick clear coating on them? It's sort of like polyurethane but its' really thick. What is that?

>> No.1317754

>>1317747
cum

>> No.1317756

>>1317677
get some shellac. One coat, let it dry, hand sand, remove dust, second coat. Profit.

You could do BLO, but the rag you use needs to be disposed of properlty.

>> No.1317760
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1317760

>>1317747

>> No.1317764
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1317764

>>1317747
120 screws? That's screen cap worthy.

I'm this guy
>>1317756
>>1317654
>>1317593

Don't be discouraged. It looks ok for seat of pants project. BTW: what tools did you use/have.

I'm working on a saw reconditioning. be back later.

>> No.1317812

Alright, I'm out. Will post pictures when it's all done and if it splits, I'll go ahead and post those pictures too when it happens.
Thank you all very much who gave me advice.

>>1317764
>what tools did you use/have.
circular saw
table top drill press
cordless drill
plastic miter box w/handsaw
small cheap level
mallet
a few clamps
screwdriver
and belt sander that I bought because of advice in this thread.

>> No.1317847
File: 382 KB, 300x300, 52F439AE-F03E-499F-9BD1-3CBBD800B614.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1317847

>>1317671
Some suggestions
Once you have removed the ridges use a straight edge to make sure your table top plane is flat.

Sand
100 grit
220 grit
400 grit
600 grit

For a glass smooth table
Seal red oak with wood grain filler, pic related.
Get the clear so if won’t change the color of your stain. Then stain.

>> No.1317892

>>1317812
I advise you get out of wood working while you can. It's a manliness meme.

You're gonna end up like mathias or wood working for mere mortals and either make a perfectly clean, organized shop, or filling your house with extra furniture that's honestly not that great.

>> No.1317905

>>1315924
Electric hand-held planer?