[ 3 / biz / cgl / ck / diy / fa / ic / jp / lit / sci / vr / vt ] [ index / top / reports ] [ become a patron ] [ status ]
2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself


View post   

File: 481 KB, 1280x720, file.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1296173 No.1296173 [Reply] [Original]

How can I get my plane to fly like Paul's?

>> No.1296266

sharpen your blade properly

>> No.1296267

>>1296173
He tells you how. It's not a secret.

>> No.1296310

>>1296173
He's got at least 3 vids dedicated entirely to restoring and sharpening them, and gives some advice on how to adjust them in one of the QA vids.

>> No.1296333

>>1296173
Is this Paul Sellers? He seems like a really cool dude

>> No.1296346

>>1296173
Sharp blade, polished base and have the blade adjusted almost all the way out. Also helps if you're cutting softer wood.

Paul gets his tools to a mirror finish because he sharpens them all the time.

>> No.1296347

>>1296310
>>1296266
>>1296173


Also, I can't sharpen the way Paul does. I use a guide on my sharpening stones and im not good enough to do a micro bevel yet. Im sure it helps a bunch though.

You can get a sharpening guide for less than 10usd.

>> No.1296371
File: 1.31 MB, 1280x720, plane.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1296371

>>1296266
>>1296267
>>1296310
>>1296346
>>1296347
OP here. I recently refurbished a 100 year old plane as per PS instructions. Came out bretty gud.

I used a honing guide- the standard one that clamps on to the sides of the blade. I used a water stone (NORTON), and using a water stone is too much of a production: soak the stones, flatten the stone, then sharpen.

I'm looking at diomond plates because the ease of use is probably faster.

Here is some more fresh woodworkingh porn.

>> No.1296499
File: 237 KB, 963x773, its_a_bird.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1296499

>>1296371
I inherited an old wards master #3, thinking about refurbishing it for shits and giggles...

>> No.1296504

You could probably start a successful cafe in a hipster town with perfectly sharpened planes and bunch of edgegrain poplar. Kind of like axe throwing but more homosexual.

>> No.1296512

>>1296504
kek'ed real gud m8

>> No.1296547

>>1296504
lmao

>> No.1296609

>>1296173
One thing that blew my mind and didn't seem obvious. You leave the blade under tension, the little flippy up bit? You can put it up to get yourself in the ball park of where you want the blade, but then you lock it down, and turning the wheel will still move the blade, but by much less.

I realized I was doing a fine job sharpening it, I was just trying to take too deep of a cut because I could never get fine enough control.

>> No.1296637

broz ditch the stones and use sand paper sprayed with water stuck to a piece of 1/4 inch glass

i usually do 80 --> 120. -> 220 -> 400 -> 600 -> 1500 -> 2000 -> leather strop loaded w/ mothers mag polish

razor sharp, easily cut hair memeworty

no gay flattening of stones, paper lasts a long ass time if you're gentle, and it takes a fraction of the time

it's called the scary sharp method, google it

>> No.1296648

>>1296371
If you get it sharpened, pay attention to what he says about oiling the sole. It absolutely makes a world of difference, and it does not make your work piece oily at all.

>> No.1296653

>>1296637
sand paper is seriously the way to go. I only use my stone now to get out serious knicks, for actual sharpening you gotta use sand paper

>> No.1296715

>>1296499
Do it. I re3furbed one off ebay with 220 sandpaper. Took about an hour for all the parts to be rust free.

Thing is these are soo well made. New stuff from stanley made in mex does not even compare. New stuff has thinner blades and the frog is not removable.

>>1296637
gonna try this. Will look up "scary sharp". Thanks.

>> No.1296728

Keep it sharp, oil your tools, and keep things true as possible.

Then it'll just happen.

>> No.1296857

https://youtu.be/JrmCyADNhe0

Check out these plane competitions in Japan

>> No.1297033

>>1296371
Highly recommend diamond, full sized, two sided 8in dmt plates sometimes goes on sale on amazon for relatively cheap

>> No.1297263

>>1296857
What is the challenge? Make the largest cut? Looks like a fun time.

>> No.1297278

>more than 50 years of woodworking experience
well he is at a master level
also that wood is a very soft!

>> No.1297304

>>1296173
I came

>> No.1297931

>>1296637
We use this method in jewelry to sharpen gravers for bright cuts. We dont strop, but use a small square of leather with polishing compound or 50,000 grit diamond paste.

If you want a clean cut, everything must be polished to a mirror finish. That said, we intend to both cut and burnish at the same time, which isnt necessarily the intent with your plane.

>> No.1297958
File: 812 KB, 1280x720, knot.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1297958

>>1297931
what is a graver?

Testing a longer vid

>> No.1297991

>>1297958
Essentially an extremely sharp, hand pushed chisel that peels away metal at very specific cutting angles. Used for decorative hand engraving and setting stones.

>> No.1298005

>>1296371
Mmmmmmm wood bacon

>> No.1298010

>>1296648
Anyone try ski wax?

>> No.1299015

>>1296648
>>1298010
Oiling the sole, is something that works. However, what is the best oil for this? I like to make cutting boards as gifts, and I'm concerned about oil contamination.

The Japanese woodworkers use some flower oil. Paul uses 3 in 1.

>> No.1300471

>>1299015
mutton tallow

>> No.1300671

>>1299015

Jojoba oil (GREAT for rust protection, too) or a block of paraffin or beeswax, go over the sole in a squiggly line.

>> No.1300681

get on japan's level

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rSooV3azDt8

>> No.1300703

>>1296346
>polished base

Polishing the sole of the plane increases friction. On my few metal planes I have switched to flattening the sole with 80 grit then smooth out the roughness with 220 and calling it good and leaving the scratches. Makes a steel plane almost as low friction as a wood soled plane. I only do this on the general block/bench planes, joinery planes I keep polished for no real reason other then they are expensive and I can not bring myself to scar them.

Stanley and others did this back in the day when they were fighting the wood plane market with their corrugated sole series of planes. They work well but are no were near as common as the common smooth soled planes.

>> No.1300733

>>1300703
I have a corrugated sole bailey #4, only downside is cutting bevels doesn't work too well with them

>> No.1300739

>>1300733
That is why they failed, the corrugations were to big and all the same direction, all they needed was a rough bottom.

>> No.1301234

>>1300681
Thats awesome. That surface would not need any sanding.

>> No.1302191

>>1300671
Is jojoba oil cut with mineral oil?

>> No.1302207

Just got a bunch of Keen Kutter planes fir christmas, anyone ever play with them? Lots of block planes, a 4, jack, and joiner, along with a hybrid wood/ metal jack. All in fantastic shape

>> No.1302210

>>1297991
Can you recommend some good resources for using and maintaining a graver? We have one at work but nobody knows how to use it anymore.

>> No.1302406

>>1302207
Oooooh. Noice!

I got the 8 set of sweat heart chisels.

>>1302210
graver, thats for cutting metal?

>> No.1302419

>>1296173
> How can I get my plane to fly like Paul's?
One more thing that is missing from the replies...
Get the right wood and use plane on the right plane.

>> No.1302422

>>1302419
you need to get balsa to do this

>> No.1302454

>>1302406
Nice, also scored a veritas dovetail saw, first back saw I won't have to sharpen.

Did you get the new chisels or an old set? The old ones are tough to find for less than an arm and a leg

>> No.1302734

>>1302454
I got the new set. xmas present from the lady. I can tell that I need to work on the set.

I'ma build a work bench soon. Oh, does anyone know of a work bench plan that could be dissembled? Maybe one where the legs come apart?

>> No.1303017

>>1302734
How often will it need disassembled? Once or twice in its lifetime or every other day would be two different ideas

>> No.1303414

>>1303017
Well, I'm moving into a new state for the tax issues, and will be renting a place until I can buy a house.

Since I'm retired early, I wanted to build a bench for the rental, and work on projects while I search for a home. So, maybe it will be disassembled once?

>> No.1303482
File: 116 KB, 1600x979, graver-12.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1303482

>>1302210
This is the tool I'm refering to. Is this what you're talking about?

>> No.1303637
File: 54 KB, 736x770, d8051f2fb9f2a15bcaa9d33a84939191--wood-joinery-homemade-tools.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1303637

>>1303414
I saw some neat joints that look like pic related but with a piece of copper pipe and a nUT instead of the circular nut. Would be perfect for cranking down tight, and only loosening when you want.
Alternatively and much cooler, tusk tenons everywhere

>> No.1304512

>>1303637
I think this kind of joint is nice, but the tusk tenons may be what I'm looking for.

So I think I want a bench that I can take apart, but maybe later, make it so that the joints can be taken apart once I find the home.

>> No.1304651

>>1304512
Look up the moravian workbench on youtube. There's a few videos and I think fine woodworking has plans. You could probably just eyeball some plans from the videos.

>> No.1305499
File: 209 KB, 1545x1000, 150604-metrics-posters-mn_c5d9ae1d922843ab99458f29385f6ede.nbcnews-ux-2880-1000.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1305499

Noob wood worker here. Bought a planer before I realized I had no woodworking bench with bench dogs or a wood working vice to actually hold down my fucking pieces to plane. So two dumb questions:
A) How can I setup a low cost bench/vice to practice planing? Don't think im good enough to build my own nice woodworking bench with bench dogs yet. Should I just buy a vice or make one?
B) When do you stop planing a piece of wood?How do you know its flush/flat/planed well?

>> No.1305512

>>1305499
A) Clamps can be used in place of a vise or dogs. Though dogs are easy as fuck to make. Just drill a hole in the top of your work surface and put a dowel in it. Do a google image search for 'diy bench dog'.

B) When the shavings come out as one continuous strip.

>> No.1305602

>>1305512
Thanks friend.

>> No.1305609

>>1305512
>B) When the shavings come out as one continuous strip.

That is dependent on plane length and depth of cut, still can have an out of square/cupped/bowed/rolling edge. Use a square and straight edge to check the edge, and sight down the edge to train your eye to see any of these problems. Use a very fine set to your iron and get the finest shaving you can. After some practice you will be able to know when it is right just by how the plane cuts and the feel of it.

Also pay attention to how the grain runs out of the board, you always want to try to plane into raising grain. Some times you need to just plane in multiple directions and or skew the plane to get a decent cut. A high angle plane is useful for such grains, but you can do it with just a block plane with some practice.

>> No.1305613

>>1305609
Thank you. I will keep that in mind. Did you just learn through guess and error? Did you have someone teach you, or take classes or read a particular book or follow a particular tutorial that you enjoyed?

>> No.1305622

>>1305499
Not answering you but fuck Celsius. It's retarded. I'm cool with the rest just C stupid. If it's 19 is cool in the house and 20 is fine.

>> No.1305631

>>1305602
You can also just put a screw or a piece of metal. I think it's called a bird foot or crow foot.

Just a screw or dowel even on one side is fine, just plane towards it, you don't even need any other clamping. If you get fancy you can make a notch in it so you can shove a corner in and it has a better bite into the wood.
Paul sellers i think does a lot of old school tools which can end up being the cheap way.

>> No.1305632

>>1305602
This might also blow your mind, if you're using a push saw, set your work up against a stop, so you can up against the stop with your left hand. With your right you can saw and it won't shake or vibrate at all.

If you're using a pull saw, pull the work against a stop.

>> No.1305684
File: 3.76 MB, 640x333, 1452726636984.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1305684

>>1305622
>Celsius is retarded.
0 = water freezes
100 = water boils
>Fahrenheit, not retarded.
32 = water freezes
212 = water boils

>> No.1305685

>>1305632
Need to invest in a good hand saw. I've been working with my chisels and table saw primarily, sometimes a jigsaw. Been attempting to think of a clever way to mount my jigsaw to a table.
Regardless, I've taken note. Thanks for the tips.

>> No.1305691

>>1305613
I just learned by doing, I got into hand tools before the resurgence so there was not much to learn from. Most of it is not that hard to figure out, you just need to pay attention to how the tools are cutting and how the wood is working and if what you are doing does not work, try something else.

>> No.1306065

>>1305684
It's a matter of preferance at this point, they both work fine.

>> No.1306068
File: 8 KB, 250x246, 1480855211186.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1306068

I was planning on a some scap douglas fur... My arms got really tired. Its' like freaking workout.

Tonight for New years, I'm going to make a ghetto mallet from the spare fur 2x4. Its tooo cold to go out to times square, or even the local bar. I'll watch Dick Clark on TV while I'm working my wood.

Happy New Year /diy-ers. May all your wood be stiff and straight. May all your planes land smooth, and may all your squares be right.

>> No.1306633

>>1306065
...but C works better.

>> No.1306672
File: 22 KB, 500x525, dead-100-dead-fahrenheit-o-100o-really-cold-outside-really-20248122[1].png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1306672

>>1306633
Eh, depends. Water freezing at 0 is the only part that really helps anything. Water boiling at 100 really doesn't affect anyone's daily lives. No one measures that when cooking as it is too low for most ovens and stovetops aren't normally controlled in degrees. It is also highly dependant on how close you are to sea level anyway. I mean, when was the last time you needed to know something was exactly 100° instead of just 'boiling' or not? Does it matter that it is 212° in Fahrenheit? Not really.

One issue that does affect everyone is the gradient of Celcius. Since it is only 100° difference, instead of the 180° of Fahrenheit, it is less accurate. One degree is almost twice as large in C than in F. Plus people can just tell the difference between 1° in Fahrenheit. So, the difference between it being 100° and 101° can just be felt but the difference between 37° and 38° is too much, too inaccurate. You either have to be less accurate and use whole numbers or you have to use decimals to really dial it in, which is kind of stupid. They should have set boiling to 200° and not gotten so hung up on it being 100.

>> No.1306738

Fahrenheit made a simple to reproduce scale, all the graduations can be divided out by compass/dividers with great accuracy, the range of the scale avoids need of fractions/decimal for daily use and the range of the scale accounts for all the the temperatures the average person comes into direct contact with over a year. it works for everything but the oven which did not need such extravagance since anyone who could afford a thermometer could also afford a cook and if you could not afford a cook you likely had no use for a thermometer, look at the water, yup its boiling, stick your head outside, need a coat today, who needs a thermometer to tell them what their sense can tell you for free.

So we have a simple scale that only needs basic geometry and simple glass working to make a thermometer and a scale/range that anyone in the temperate world can easily relate to. No wonder it was a hit! Just needed someone with enough marketing sense to come along and convince the world how much of a bother it really was to stick your head out the door to determine if a coat would be required.

>> No.1306739

>>1302191
I use the NOW Foods or Radha kind, both of those have been pure stuff as far as I can tell. It's a liquid wax which is why I think it works so well for lubrication and rust protection compared to plain oils.

>> No.1306895

>>1299015

I just use what ever I have been using on my hands, all you need is a non-drying oil that will not stain your wood.

>> No.1307235
File: 8 KB, 317x409, not having a gun.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1307235

Was looking to make a marking gauge, and ran across this you-tube vid. The guy seems like nice chap, would have a beer with, but does he take too many risks with his fingers?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yDjwjjuoo4

check out around 1:50 TO 2:20.
I'll make a webm, if folks here think its too risky to do what he did.

>> No.1307256

>>1296637
>stuck to a piece of 1/4 inch glass
If you niggers are going to do this, at least spend the $30 on a granite surface plate that's actually flat.

>> No.1307258

>>1306633
It depends what you're used to.

>> No.1307397

>>1305499

You need a heavy table or counter so it won't move or tilt, that's probably the most important part. For the actual planing surface, I use a piece of laminated pressboard that was once the side of a cheap bookshelf. On one end, I drilled holes and stuck dowels in them, then I lay a strip of maple or some other hardwood between them and it serves as a backstop for the board I'm planing. The opposite end has a a short board attached underneath that catches the edge of the table so it doesn't slide off. I use this method mainly because I use my table for metalworking and other things and I can put away the planing board to keep it very clean.

>> No.1307501

>>1307256
Or spend $1.50 and 10 minutes at the home cheapo with a straight edge and find a granite floor tile that's flat. Yea I know, it's not polished to +-0.0000000000000001 flatness, but there's a point where flat enough is flat enough and you won't have to lug a giant piece of stone around every time you need to clean up an edge. If it's flat that you can't see light with a good straight edge it's under .001" flatness.

If using the scary sharp method one thing to consider is using spray adhesive on the back of your paper before you put it on you glass/granite. When wet, as you use it the paper will tend to stretch a little sometimes wrinkle in front of your edge or curl up on the sides. This can either slightly round the edge or cause the paper to bunch and tear. When you need a new piece, peel it up, scrape with a razor, and wipe with a little acetone. Brand new surface. Add 30 seconds but saves time in the end.

>> No.1307804

>>1307501
Or you can just get a couple stones and learn to use them. India stones are cheap and effective once to learn to use them, will get you just as sharp and you can keep it at hand right at the bench to do touch ups. I like diamond myself, but I have a few natural oil and water stones and a few synthetic oil stones floating about which get used for various jobs. Overall none really work better then the others, but some do excell at certain tasks.

>> No.1307977

>>1307804
I have waterstones and diamond plates and occasionally use them. I've just found I can keep the tile out of the way on the cabinet under my bench. I keep one with 320, 500, and 1500 paper and another that is 2000 and leather with compound. Usually just pull out the 2k/leather while working to keep the edge perfect but I have the other on hand to make quick work of any edge damage that might happen.

The nice thing about this is that if you accidentally push it off the bench you're out $2. I had a $60 dmt plate hit the floor once and I guess it hit just right that it went out of flat.

The other nice thing is that if you need to use a hone guide to restore a FUBAR iron it gives you a lot of work surface.

Not saying this is the perfect method or the only one to use, just saying this is what I've found works best for my workflow.

>> No.1307985

>>1306672
>Since it is only 100° difference, instead of the 180° of Fahrenheit, it is less accurate.
So use decimals. Now it's five times as accurate as Fahrenheit again.

>> No.1308590

>>1307501
The problem with these floor ties is the edges has a slight buuble. Unless its true granite, and a single tile costs about 2/3 the price of a certified block. Get the certified block.

>> No.1308592

>>1307985
But now you're a stupid French cuck.

>> No.1308808
File: 371 KB, 480x360, oldplane.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1308808

OP here, found a gem on you tube produced by the US government before they went to 60's pot.


https://youtu.be/TGAyBdUxWaU?list=PLEAE22DC3E1D959BE

>> No.1309966

>>1308808
Very ideological, but nice.
Thanks for posting.

>> No.1311800

>>1305622
fucking idiot

>> No.1311991

>>1308590
You're thinking of ceramic tiles. You can buy these by the piece for 1.50. https://www.homedepot.com/p/MS-International-Black-Galaxy-12-in-x-12-in-Polished-Granite-Floor-and-Wall-Tile-10-sq-ft-case-TBLKGXY1212/202508261

>> No.1312060

>>1309966
How was it ideological in any way you fucking communist

>> No.1312145

>>1311991
i use this for general cleanup of planes and chisels. It was chipped on one end, so I only payed one cent.

I might get the certified block, but does anyone know if they come in a stainless steel block?

>> No.1312597

>>1312060
nazi punks fuck off

>> No.1313972

Welp, I just purchased some diamond plates. Whats nice is that after sharpening my planes, and chisels, I don't have to flatten the plates. BUT there is a black residue on the plates. What do? Eraser? Water and soap? or just leave em be?

>> No.1313986

>>1313972
Just rinse with water and use a cloth to rub the residue. I don't think a little build up is a problem.

>> No.1314047

>>1313986
The build up will cause them to act like a finer stone after awhile. Every so often I take a scrub brush and soap to them, brings them back to new. Using a honing oil is very helpful as well, DMT says it can damage their plates, don't see how though, I have been using it for 5 years now, no problems.

>> No.1314062
File: 2.84 MB, 480x270, Hobeln auf japanisch.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1314062

>>1300681

>> No.1314063
File: 2.71 MB, 640x360, Plane.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1314063

>>1314062

>> No.1314078

>>1314063
neat

>> No.1314085

>>1314063
>>1314062
this seems incredibly labor intensive for something that could have been achieved with normal paper production and paint/printing since before japan was even invented

>> No.1314239

>>1314085
Damn.

>> No.1314248
File: 56 KB, 430x302, shiny chisel.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1314248

>>1314062
I dated a Japanese exchange student in college. Things got serious for a bit, and I went to Japan to visit during the summer. Her father didn't want us to stay together, but he was into woodworking and had a nice shop. I was there for a two week, and he showed me some stuff, and was all polite, as expected. Shame I wasn't into woodworking at the time, just a passing interest, I could have learned a lot about the Japanese way of woodworking before hand-work became a meme.

She taught me some sentences but I only remember one:
something like "watashima onada hoe shimash-ita"

She said, it means "i farted".

>> No.1314252
File: 1.78 MB, 350x255, digits.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1314252

>>1314063
At first I thought it was tear out, then I was like, Damn Son.

also, those planes at 0:41

>> No.1314280
File: 37 KB, 600x600, 50x digital zoom.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1314280

>>1314085
>why make it great when you can make it like shit!?

>> No.1314454

>>1299015
The oil the Japanese use is called Camellia/Tsubaki oil. It's also popular in hair and skin care and as a cooking oil. You can buy the type packaged for knife maintenance, skin/beauty purposes, or cooking, as they're all the same oil in the end. There are differences in manufacturing/safety standards for each type though, so I wouldn't recommend frying eggs with oil meant for knife/metal maintenance. It's not that expensive, so you can buy a small bottle and try it out (can find oil meant for knives for under $12 on amazon). If you're just using the oil on tools, avoid the $30+ tiny bottles meant for skin use at it's just a waste of money. There is more, but it's skin-related and unrelated to the topic of the thread. If you want to know more, just google it. Plenty of sites and reviews on amazon with people using the oil for maintenance, but you'll run into a lot of sites discussing the oil for beauty needs as well.

>> No.1314492

>>1314454
Historically people just used what ever they had on hand that was non drying, animal fats being the preferred since a solid fat is easier to apply can can not be spilt.

I have used a good number of oils over the years, not all that much difference between them, found solid fats to be the way to go. Veggie Shortening, Coconut oil, animal fats, petroleum jelly all do the job and do it cheaply, I just keep a small 1oz container with my tools, when it comes time to fill it I just fill it with what ever I have the most of or what ever needs to get used up and call it good. In the winter when the hand creme comes out I just use it instead.

>> No.1314497

>>1314248
私はおならをしました
or if you're feeling like you want to talk like a normal person
屁が出た (へがでた)

>> No.1314526

>>1314492
I find that good old paste wax works great.

>> No.1314535

>>1314526
It does work quite nicely but has the drawback that it does not just wipe up with some naptha on a rag like oils/fats will and wax interferes with a great number of finishes. But if you are just going to wax the piece anyways, why not.

Last winter I used okeefs working hands, fairly close to past wax, wax oil and a few odds and ends. My wooden bodied planes took on a fairly nice patina with that, but I did always have to scrape before finishing even if the planed surface was perfect.