/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Fleshlight bro where are you

>>1291984
>>what programs do you make your own files with
design spark mechanical
and sketchup are very easy programs to use
design spark is very similar to sketchup but it is like a hybrid of freecad + sketchup

it's windows only. I used it before it was great unfortunately doesn't work in wine on linux.

>>1292074
There's two! One for silicone and the other for thermoplastics.


Inre tpe, been too lazy to print, haven't gone for a third cast. Still haven't bought more teflon tape and still no doc/report on my end.

Did anyone else buy a prusa mk3 and have this issue with it not shipping?

>>1292276
Never had that issue ordering the mk2. Shipping to the states?

We're trying to do our first printing with a BQ Hephestos, but we're unable to manage to make the ABS stick to the plate. We do not have a heating bed.
Is it just REALLY hard to make it stick to the plate or what?

So I got my first printer, a Monoprice Mini V2. It was cheap, and I wanted one. Can't really decide what I want to print, but I want some sort of multi-part assembly that will slowly come together.

Suggestions?

>>1292323
For ABS you absolutely need a heated bed. For PLA there are workarounds, but for ABS it's essential.

>>1292360
Fuck.
Is there no workaround of any kind? We've been trying to calibrate it, rising it and lowering it milimeter by milimeter. Sometimes it does stick to the plate but then after some time it unsticks and fucks the entire printing.

>>1292074
Have too much stuff to do atm.
Im planning to do a Christmas ornament for the occasion.

>>1292074
Have too much stuff to do atm.
Im planning to do a Christmas tree ornament for the occasion.

>>1292376
You shouldn't really print ABS unless you really need it and you definitely should get a heatbed as soon as possible, it's day and night printing with one. ABS has serious problems with warping even if you do manage to get it to stick, you need a heated bed and an enclosure to get decent results.

>>1292386
A printing bed is completly out of our budget right now. Unles there's a way to get a cheap one.

Would PLA fix some of the issues or at least let us print something from start to end?

>>1292388
A chink heated bed is $10, but you also need a power supply at least around 240W, ideally 360W, to run it. Alternatively an AC silicone heater can be used, but for that you again need an SSR which brings you up to about the same cost (though the AC one is better).
PLA is the easiest material to print, yes, you would have a decent chance of getting a passable print. PETG is also a great material, but only easy to print on a heated bed, without it just go with PLA.

>>1292389
Is there somewhere where I can get all the materials for a heated bed for 50-75 bucks?

>>1292390
eBay, Aliexpress if you can wait 2-3 weeks to receive the parts, will be a total of $30. If you want them more quick, it depends on where you live. Amazon might have the same chink parts for about 50% higher cost but faster shipping.

>>1292391
'Aight, we'll take a look to all options. Are heated beds comaptible between printers? we have a BQ Hephestos, which is a modified Prusa i3 so... should kits for prusa i3 be compatible?

>>1292393
There are two chink heatbed sizes that might be relevant for you, the 200x200 and the 200x300. I have no idea if the mounting holes will be the same, but they adhere to some standard, at least the 200x200 should fit a prusa i3.
If you get a silicone heater, you just stick it to the underside of the current bed, should come with heat resistant tape on one side.

>>1292308
Yeah

>>1292410
Im in Norway so my shit went on the roads all the way. Proabubly some major jew trickery going on with your shipping options.

>>1292323
It's really easy if you have a heated bed that can go to 100ºC, hairspray and an enclosed printer

I made a wood pla Majora's Mask magnet. I had the temp up too high so there was stringing and loss of detail, but it looks decent.

>>1292627
>Papa John's

Sort of related, but does anyone know where I can get a large, rigid custom shape plate made? I have a print but it's like 280x280mm and I Need like 18x18". And something more rigid than plastic, like aluminum or carbon fiber filled resin, for the motherboard tray of a PC case.

>>1291984
>https://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_361425.html?currency=USD&vip=760163&gclid=CjwKCAiAjanRBRByEiwAKGyjZTwsio1vDeyIS_2obEziQ9eOVmBr1rceAx6scnUvhLhDHNdX1l1gCBoCAWEQAvD_BwE
Is this a decent printer? Or is a $125 printer too good to be true? Are there any cheaper printers, or is this as cheap as it gets?

>>1292742
>asking if $125 is too good to be true and if there are any cheaper printers in the same post
It's a very small and barebones printer, wouldn't recommend it as you'd immediately need to somehow add a heated bed to it and probably swap out the PSU to run the bed, and even then it only has a 100x100 print area.

>>1292744
What if I dont have a heated bed?

>>1292753
You're going to regret it very quickly

>>1292754
Okay then, can I install a heated bed? How do I install a heated bed?

>>1292768
Buy one that fits, make sure you have enough wattage to run it and that your control board supports it (it probably does), hook up the cables. I don't know if the chinks make any 100x100 heated beds.

>>1292742
No, get a Tevo Tarantula, add a second leadscrew for the Z axis and replace the acrylic parts with aluminum ones. That will make it a good printer.

>>1292359
Try this T-Rex Skeleton. It's a popular design.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:275091

>>1292674
Got a free pizza for attending a function, so I figured I'd take it home.

>>1292802
Are there any Tevo Tarantulas cheaper than $125?

>>1292383
Gods bless you pervo poster. Keep making unicorn horns and strange fungi.

>>1291984
are there any more sales coming up that i should look out for?
i'm looking to buy a monoprice select mini v2 if it's going to be on sale again soon

This might be a little bit off topic, but I'm looking to buy/make a 2.5D machine.

My ultimate goal is to put in a piece of paper on the print bed (foam) and have the machine run a needle (thin sewing needle) in the x-y plane and prick tiny holes in predetermined places. I only need the needle to go in the z-direction about 5mm, so it's not really 3D.
Can anyone guide me to a machine that might be easily repurposed for that end.
I have unlimited access to some 3D printers (ultimaker) at uni to pront parts for it if needed.

>>1293554
Sounds like a modified pen plotter would do what you need.

>>1293562
You are right, I forgot these exist.
I think that will solve my problem. thanks

>>1293562
if he has access to a printer, he could just use that for pricking holes.
get a modded carriage or a holder for the needle and just home/ level, move the z axis up and you got yourself a pin pricker.

Has anyone printed pp succesfully?

E3d V6 clone good? I’m using my stock one and it’s working great.

>>1292276
It's christmas, postal service is overloaded.

>>1293891
moved from clone v5 to v6 clone, got to say it was a good move, but now that I want hotter filaments and dual extrusion, I still feed limited. I'm looking into the mini hotend or the small printerbot hotends for a interesting setup.

spend a bit more and get an all metal with the new style thermistor and block.

idk about volcano clone by itself, max I can go top speed with my (not volcano) .5 nozzle limits my temp to 190 with light fan, if I want to print with a bigger nozzle or different filaments fast, I'd buy a clone and a volcano upgrade, rather than just a volcano kit.

Just got my fourth printer setup. Have two more select minis arriving today.

>>1293996
While we're at it, are there any new good hot-ends? E3D seems to be pretty complacent with theirs. Was kinda hoping to see a hotend with hotswap nozzles or something using a locking lever to insert nozzle or something.

Does anyone have any advice the nozzle for the Anycubic Mega? The metal heated bit that the nozzle screws into is made of tinfoil and tries to strip every time I replace a brass nozzle. Am I doing something wrong or is it a low quality part that could be upgraded?

How stable is the CR-10 bed (300x300x400)? The 400x400x400 version that has 2 support rails but feels too big for me, the Anet has too many problems.

>>1292202
Design spark mechanical looks great, thanks champ

>>1292376
yes, enclose your printer and put a heater on max setting blowing into the enclosure and never turn the heater off

you can get it up to like 70C if you're lucky

>>1292202
You can get a lot of professional cad programs educational version for free.
I know for sure Creo is available like that.

>>1294229
oh but also a heating bed is probably cheaper.

How do I keep this from happening without cranking infill way up and adding a ton of top layers?

>>1294260
did you calculate e-steps?
also, modify extrusion width.

>>1294263
>calculating e-steps

I did it by measuring how much filament comes out vs how much I told it to extrude and so on, but that was before I update my Marlin so maybe that value was overriden

>>1294267
if the value is stored in EEPROM, then it probably did not change. its good to double check though. although, this could be the fault of having the wrong nozzle diameter.

>>1293996
Thanks I appreciate the reply. I’ll use mine after I finished all my printer recommended upgrades.
I can’t print nicely with it so using my stock first right now to get the best carriage. The one I printed had some wobble and play.

>>1294267
you have to measure how much filament goes in the extruder not how much comes out of it

Now that 4k projectors are getting affordable, would the LittleRP with a 4k projector offer an improvement in accuracy over 1080p? Or would the extra resolution go to waste?

>>1294267
>>1294283
>>1294263

Btw, two previous prints with this same filament came out perfect

>>1294315
I guess I'll have to do it again then

How about bowden tube backlash?

>>1294318
Resolution is high enough for the print size, mabe 4k would allow for bigger build volume with the same resolution as projector-based resin printers (which look really clumsy). LCD printers have a high enough resolution already.

>>1294369
>Resolution is high enough for the print size, mabe 4k would allow for bigger build volume with the same resolution as projector-based resin printers (which look really clumsy). LCD printers have a high enough resolution already.

IIRC 1080p is still like 30 micron resolution or something on the littleRP, and worse on the littleRP2 I guess since it has a bigger build volume. Not good enough for absolute precision when you also add material shrinkage on top of that.

>>1294260
Jesus Christ, what printer do you use?

>>1294571
looks like the monoprice affect

>>1294571
Home made one

I'm working on a laser projector project and a guy who will print it advised me to use metal rods to connect mirror holders to the base, the angle of mirror will be adjustable up to about 10 degrees (or might be less)

but there'll be a problem with inserting the last rod as there will be no space to place it there, because of the mirror holder on the sides

so I was thinking about making it differently, maybe even ditching the rods, but I've never printed anything before and I'm wondering if it can be done with snap fit joints or something like that

btw it might be spinning with about 1200rpm
mirror holder dimensions: 24x10x3mm
base radius: ~250mm

>>1294044
what the hell do you print, and do you sell it?

>>1294681
>what the hell do you print, and do you sell it?
Scartch-built Nerf blasters. I sell the hardware sets so people can print their own. But I also sell them as kits or assembled blasters as well as accessories and upgrade parts. The link to my Etsy shop is in the description.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2376150

I've shipped out 180 of them since June and have orders going out to the 230th.

I just got two more Monoprice Select Minis setup on a different shelf yesterday so I'm now managing 6 printers in 4-1/2 shift intervals.

>>1294686
I hoped that was going to be a gif of a reciprocating dildo

>>1294044
does this cost you a lot in electricity to run them all at the same time?

>>1294707
Not him, but small printers use like 70-100W on average, so they cost under $.02 per hour to run

>>1294686
Have you looked into just getting the parts injection molded?

>>1294719
Not him, but the cost is literally never within reach for hobbyists like us. To have the molds made for all the parts would be tens of thousands of dollars.

>>1294719
Not worth the effort and not economical even if you only do 1k parts. And that gun would need around 3-6 tools to do.

>>1294719
I started off making them under the premise of casting them myself and even that was becoming too much of an investment AND too labor-intensive to do.

I don't have thousands of preorders to provide the startup capital to afford injection-molding.

With 6 printers I will be able to produce 2 to 3 whole blasters per day plus a few accessory prints in-between. After some small revisions 80% of the parts can now be printed on a 120mm build area so if I need to scale production up at some point I can just buy another monoprice select mini.

The hobby is way way larger than it used to be, but what I'm selling is still somewhat niche, I don't live in Singapore, and I'm trying to do this entirely on my own. My workspaces are a single closet full of printers, and office for assembly, and a shed where I cut all the hardware sets to length.

>>1294763
Have you considered resin casting services? Some resins are on par with conventional thermoplastics

>>1294767
>Some resins are on par with conventional thermoplastics
They promise to be, but even the highest impact-rating polyurethanes I've tried have lost a significant percentage of their strength as soon as pigments are added to them. I was using Alumilite Performance 80D can it managed to have properties slightly worse than PLA.

Resin-cast parts are also somewhat labor intensive to produce. And at the pour volumes most of my parts are at the cure times are fairly long (6 to 8 hours @ 40psi).

I produced the first 12 of these with mostly pressure-cast parts and it was a ton of work and much more expensive of an investment than just printing the parts. There's also the issue of being tied down with a certain part revision because you've poured a mold. If you want to revise a part you have to repour the mold. And silicone worth using for this is fairly expensive.

Are there extruders with exiting holes thiner than the default ones? My extruder's printer is 0.4mm and I was wondering if there are thinner ones for more accuracy and where to buy them.

>>1294770
Look into innovative polymers, bjb, and ptm&w. They offer good industrial grade resins used in actual vehicles and machinery/tooling. But they're more expensive and toxic. Smooth-on and alumilite are for artists making disposable props

>>1294778
Go on your 3dprinting supplies marketplace of choice (even amazon) and search "nozzle." Make sure you change the size in your slicer.

>>1294783
Is it necessary to make any more changes or just buy the piece, replace it and it's ready to go?

>>1294787
mostly, unless you got a mini hotend or something with a thermistor integrated nozzle, then you are stuck with a .4 mm nozzle for everything unless you can machine it yourself

>>1294781
Very few of the products on offer from any of those companies even list Izod impact ratings. I compared 18 different products across 5 different brands. I was considering Innovative Polymers but their system is twice the price per unit of volume compared to anything else, and it's harder to find suppliers for.

But anyways, I'm not likely to go back to casting because of how time-consuming and messy it is to have to pour molds, pot them, pull molds, pry parts, sand/drill parts to tolerance, and then have to deal with however many reject parts I produced. I didn't get anything from the cast parts that was of a worthwhile benefit over just scaling up my printing operation.

It's infinitely cheaper in time and money to buy another printer than to try to scale up casting. If I were making much smaller parts, with much finer details, and less of a requirement for dimensional accuracy it would be a different story.

>>1294789
It can be unscrewed, we checked that already. do I need to make changes during printing itself (less speed or something) or the printer knows how to handel this change in size?

why does Cura still not have an option for tree branch supports

I can't seem to manage to make supports that are useful while still being easy to remove so I end up needing to throw the model into Meshmixer to add supports before slicing with Cura

>>1294807
As someone mentioned, just change the nozzle size in your slicer and that should take care of it.

I made a hard drive sandwich. I'm halfway considering trying to print an entire pc case now

So what upgrades are generally worth it on a cr10s? I have a macewen mk8 extruder on the way as well as a swisstech all metal hot end. Is there anything else that be good to add to my meme machine?

>>1295326
Fang mount, quieter fans, bed levelling thumb turns, anti strain bracket if it's not the box, enclosure, bed insulation, octopi.

>>1295272
Go for it. I was thinking of doing the same but with minimal 3d printing and more 10 or 15mm aluminum extrusions and laser cut panels from ponoko.

>>1292742
There's a huge-ass sale on the CR10, I just ordered mine. Still, if you're planning on a $125 printer, I doubt $320 sounds great.

>>1295272
Holy shit dude, thanks so much for this idea
I have a case too small for my motherboard, my hard drive fucking sits on the table outside the computer, and I have a liquid cooler sitting freely in there.

>>1295426
Thank you, the mount looks ridiculous but i'll give it a try with the rest of the stuff.

there will be a filastruder sale for a duet wifi this week, wondered if it would be a good board to move from a 8bit board.
what should be the usd price I should be looking for in a quality 32 bit board?

I have octopi, so wifi and shit is an afterthought but I want some trinamic drivers (all I know is duet wifi has different ones than normal/ intelligent prusa ones) that can do the silent step features and dont care about integrated endstops as long as it can drive better than 8bit, 16step (I dont want the 32bit 32step smoothie clones ones though, I can spend more than 50$ on a good board)

>>1295509
sorry I meant cool step not stealth chop with quiet running, I need the extra amps, if I wanted stealth chop I would get 2208 with my current setup, can get them for 7-8 bucks each.

>>1295509
if you want the silent drivers you might as well get it. You'll need a 32-bit driver to use the higher steppings for the "silent" stepping. 8-bit is good for 1/16 steppings, maybe 1/32. But 1/128 or w/e is out of the question at any reasonable speed.

>>1295430
>10 or 15mm aluminum extrusions and laser cut panels.
not a bad idea. personally, I used an old, scrap, steel cover panel I happened to have, and reinforced with 1/2" square steel stock. Pic related(still kind of a WIP). I built this partially as a learning experience, and partially to buy into the flat board PC meme. But up until now, I was careful to fully support the hardware directly on the frame. That HDD bracket is my first attempt at a major structural piece, and is the only thing holding that HDD in place. I am really pleased with how well it turned out. But I don't think I would try to build anything without some type of metal skeleton to build around

>>1295499
yeah, you seriously need to fix that shit. If I can give you bit of advice, I would say start small so you can get a feel for it. Just try to make it work for now, and worry about making it look nice later

Also plan ahead for shrinkage and warping with your printed parts. I dont know if you can tell from that pic I posted, but I designed those HDD brackets with precise screw holes in the middle, and sliding screw holes for the rest.

So whats the word on Resin printers these days?

Last I looked there were a few in development that weren't stupidly expensive and seemed like they would work decently.

>>1294618
Ich got an anet e10 and Dunning kruger is fucking strong with me.

I have a few questions regarding printing and shit.

Does the 3D printer consume a lot of energy? Is it more or less than the average computer?
Do I need special paint to color printed things (PLA) or the average spray base and colors will do the job?
Also is there a way to smooth PLA printings?

>>1295674
From what I've heard the heated bed is what consumes the most power when heating up but when up to temp the whole printer should tick over with double digit wattage. I've got no figures for you though.

>>1295674
i recommend a spray primer as a base coat on anything, preferably on a sanded part.

when printing, it probably wont go past 400w peak, and its not like its always on. Its not really an issue.

if you're barely comfortable with the idea of acetone vapor smoothing, you wont be comfortable smoothing PLA. outdoors/fumehood territory.

>>1295702
>i recommend a spray primer as a base coat on anything, preferably on a sanded part.
Pretty much what I expected.

>when printing, it probably wont go past 400w peak, and its not like its always on. Its not really an issue.
One of my roomates was being obnoxious about it because he said it could raise our electric bill too much. He sepnds more than 12h in his computer everyday, so I'm sure he consumes way more than the printer.

>if you're barely comfortable with the idea of acetone vapor smoothing, you wont be comfortable smoothing PLA. outdoors/fumehood territory.
I have space in my house to fuck around with vapors. So it works finde with PLA, right?

Is there a way to improve how the printing material sticks to the plate without buying a heated bed? We've been able to print several things, but from time to time some unstick from the plate and fuck it up, and it's pretty much impossible to print anything that needs morer than 3 hours.

We're using hair fixer for now. Would an actual fixer for 3D printing improve that much?

>>1295674
>Does the 3D printer consume a lot of energy?
Two incandescent light bulbs worth.
>Is it more or less than the average computer?
Roughly yes.
>Do I need special paint to color printed things (PLA) or the average spray base and colors will do the job?
No. Only laser-sintered parts really need fine-spray primers because their surface texture is that of sandpaper.
>Also is there a way to smooth PLA printings?
Sand them or acetone vapor.

>>1295705
>Is there a way to improve how the printing material sticks to the plate without buying a heated bed?
No

>>1295721
>Two incandescent light bulbs worth
Perhaps this would have been a reasonable explanation about 20 years ago. Although it wouldn't have since there is a huge range of incandescent lamps, the power rating more than doubles just within the most common values

>>1295724
>Wah

It's going to depend on the maximum rating of a given printer.

I have small ones rated for 150 watts maximum and some rated for 300 watts maximum, but those figures assume that everything is running at full-tilt. And given how printers operate they never manage to do that. They draw 70% of their rating when trying to reach temperature, but once they've heated up and the steppers start running they're down to 50% of their rating or less.

>>1295705
>Is there a way to improve how the printing material sticks to the plate without buying a heated bed?
There's nothing that will do as well as a heated bed. When printing ABS you absolutely need it IMO. But if you're having problems with PLA on glass, you could try glue stick, or a textured build surface.

>>1295734
>glue stick
wouldn't that leave a lot of leftovers on the plate after any printing?

>>1295736
If you use purple dissolving glue stick you can periodically rinse the plate with warm water to get rid of the residue.
Protip: have at least two glass plates so you can easily swap them out as needed.

>>1295545
The only things I think really need metal are the motherboard mounting plate and gpu/expansion slot brackets. Since those are the only heavy items that needs a lot of support. And the frame of course. Everything else can probably printed. Fans and water cooling radiators can get distributed over large spaces so a thick enough plastic will probably be fine. Hdd cages/brackets can be plastic, 5.25" too if you're into that, PSUs sit on the bottom so those are fine too.

HTC Vive has this accessory that costs $100. It's just a bunch of plastic, foam padding, and cheap over ear headphones. I got a 3d printer, never modeled before tho. How hard would it be to recreate something like this, and will I get sued if I share it online?

>>1295787
If you're going for just the strap, you'd probably be fine. There are plenty of strap mods for the Vive before the DAS came out.

I have the DAS, I'd be willing to check some of your measurements when you're modeling it. I'd recommend getting a pair of calipers to make sure you're modeling the snap-in components pretty precisely.

Although at the end of the day you'd probably end up with a better result from doing one of the welding mask/bike helmet mods.

>>1295787
If it's not 1:1, no one can really have a go at you for sharing. Plus even if it is, there's still enough components that you can't print that whatever you did share wouldn't be close to the strap anyway.

>>1295796
>>1295787
Plus this seems to have been done already, using welding mask head gear.

>>1295787
Well damn, certainly looks like a $100 bit of kit. Looks like the set would be all but rigidly mounted with it. Would cop.

Anyway, 3D printing accessories for VR is nothing new. I have a pair of printed clips holding a pair of PSmove controllers to a PSnavi controller each for PSmoveservice and SteamVR with my Gear VR. Modelling isn't terribly hard, and even if you're a turbo-brainlet Google Sketchup can be coaxed into outputting STL files. You'll be made fun of for using it but it's easy as shit to learn. Find yourself a scale head model and base it on that.

Would this work?

>>1295815
You need one way valves, besides this already exists, no reason to reinvent the wheel.

>>1295815
Sort of. You want the melt chamber to have the same length though obviously. Why not just buy a Cyclops or something though?

>>1295817
>valves
How? Why? There shouldnt be back flow if the nozzle is not clogged.

>>1295818
>same length though
For what reason?


>already exists, no reason to reinvent the wheel
>Why not just buy a something
Classic /diy/, never change guys

>>1295820
It's not
>why not just buy something instead of /diy/ing :^)
it's
>why not just buy something tried and tested a million times and knocked off by chinks to be sold at $5 instead of spending countless hours trying to unfuck your shitty version of it that won't be any cheaper to make
If you want to make one just for the hell of it, go ahead, but if you just want a printer with a mixing head, this is not the way to go about it.

could prime towers be switched with a tall, long model in any software? I think if I go dual, one hotend, this would be what I do whenever I go dual color. support with pva or hips would just be done in the dense support area for very complex models. ( would use a switch between pla and petg [works like hips and abs w/o smell] support for most other things)

I have an old basic reprap lcd controller.

It has something silkscreened Kill, and there was 2 copper clod holes.

I soldered a momentary switch into it and it doesnt seem to do anything. How would I go about figuring out how to make it work?
Even if it isnt standard because I see a lot of LCDs without it, there should be a way to make it work right?

>>1295925
See if your firmware is set up to handle that input.

>>1295929
Is there a way to tell what its triggering, if anything at all when pressed?
Its obviously not hitting a kill command, wouldnt I need to know what it triggers to bind it to the kill command in firmware?

>>1295936
I wrote long detailed reply, then i realized that you will find all that in google and deleted it. Good luck.

>>1295939
Its ok to say you dont know.
Its also not the easiest thing to try and google, especially since all of the stuff on google about it had no resolutions and were from 2015, about the same time I built this thing.

>>1295941
I know the answer, its on fucking google. Use it.

>>1295944
Im sure you may convince a passerby or two that the answer is easily googlable.

Its not the discount LCD standard, hence why none of the LCDs make after 2014 have it. The STOP button is bound to the KILL command, and there is nothing in the pin configuration for the kill pins.

>>1295948

Just trace the leads with a multimeter and see which pins it goes to on the RAMPS, it's not rocket science... You can even tell that the hole on the right is most likely Ground

So TMC2130 or TMC2208?

Was just given some wood filament as a gift. Any good project ideas for the stuff?

>>1296072
Buttplug or anal dildo

>>1295999
TMC2130, other has better/ updated silent steps but is a overall cheaper chip and cant currently communicate due to how clock sync works on it.

>>1295999
https://www.trinamic.com/support/eval-kits/details/silentstepstick/

Im interested in getting a 3d printer, but my budget is under $300. Looking at the reviews, it seems like buying a printer in this range has a 50% chance of the printer including broken parts or burning my house down. Does anyone know any good printers in this range?

>>1295815
I'd say try and have the angle be equal for both (say 30 degrees) instead of one straight and one at 45. Your design looks like a recipe for jam.

>>1296225
Monoprice select mini v1 / v2

>>1296225
You know anyone who already has a printer that can help you build/debug one? DIY builds can come in around that

>>1296225
Buy a monoprice printer and check the wiring. Wiring is easy and cheap to redo if something is fucked up. Just use a slightly oversized gauge and you're good to go since everything on cheap Chinese prints is screw terminals

>>1295999
are either of these worth buying if I already have DRV8825s?

>>1296264
This.

The only two things you must do to make it reliable are

1. Re-route the heated bed wires. Just take off the right side panel and bottom plate. Snip the four zip ties that hold the heated bed and thermistor wires together, fish them out through the shell and through the bed tray and out the back of the bed. Zip-tie the wires to the back of the bed then reconnect them to the control board through the side of the chassis. Screw the baseplate back on and you're done. Optionally you can drill a large hole or cut the corner off the side plate and fish the wires through after putting some trim or a rubber grommet on the edges.

2. Apply PEI to the build plate. I got lazy and just put mine on over the black buildtac.

>>1291984
Anyone here using their printers to turn a profit by selling online?

>>1296365
Theres the nerfgun guy who posts here.

A friend of mine gets occasional jobs from companies to do prototypes.

>>1296387
How retarded would it be to print shit to sell on eBay locally?

I'm thinking flowers with LEDs in anticipation of Valentines day, and other neat shit.

>>1296396
Not sure. It might not pay well (not worth the effort) if you do it in a respectable way, doing your own models.

There are people who do that already, but in a less respectable fashion. They get the stl from thingiverse, put a picture on ebay, print it when some fool buys it.

Pretty clever if you ask me, zero fucking effort and you get an occasional plus.

>>1296342

I have no experience with them but everyone seems to have a hard on for the trinamic drivers recently. From what they say apparently there is a fairly substantial noise difference.

>>1295496
Where is that?

Buildtak bed levelled, axes checked, bed cleaned, nozzle cleaned , new filament roll, same settings I've been running.

I've found out that this happens almost always on long linear extrusions for base layers - shorter 1cm travel is usually fine. Layer wall/filling is fine, just base layer is having problems like this. Extruder is clean, nozzle degunked.

50mm/s, PLA at 200C, bed at 60. I haven't been racking my head enough for this. Is this adhesion or extrusion problems? What the hell is going on with my bed.

I need to start making Christmas gifts but I can't due to autism with bed layers.

>>1296664
Nozzle distance from bed, layer height, and maybe bump up to 210-220

>>1296664
Nozzle way to close

Anyone here ever make one of those mostly 3d printed CNC mills? How are they? How accurate are they? Looking for something cheap I can use to mill plastic

>>1297044
It highly depends on how well you build it, but they are a lot more stout than you would think

>>1297055
Do you have one? Have you ever measured your cuts and how big is it? I figure if I spend several hundred in laser cut acrylic it might be a better investment to make a CNC out of aluminum extrusions and wheels and shit. Maybe even chinese screws

>>1297057
I built to whatever size he specced on vicious1 website
I used the DeWalt drywall cutter and router bits cutting into cheap wood . It took decent cuts and didn't slow down or bend or anything.

When I went to fine tune it so I could use those micro endmills and make fine accurate cuts is where you see the issues.

Your table better be flat, your conduit better be straight, you better have squared the edges, and you had better have all 4 Z corners the same height.

I sold it to a friend when I realized how much fine tuning there was going to be to do anything small
Its probably better suited for hogging out plywood cuts than anything just because of it's size.

>>1297063
Ah, then maybe it's not for me then.

>>1297079
Openbuilds mini cnc is much better for around the same price if you are doing finer work

>>1294173
Mine is fantasic. The heating pad could use an upgrade as mine takes ~30 mins to get to 90°. I just do ABS at 80° as that only takes ~15 mins.

A friend bought an open box one that the heated bed wouldn't work on and just upgraded it. His only takes 2 mins to heat to 100°.

>>1297102
I was thinking 20x20" for PC case panels and shit, but I also need it to cut holes and be able to engrave acrylic

The mini cnc (mini mill?) is pretty tiny. Is it actually precise "out of box"? I do have engineering squares but are all the parts good out of box?

If I have a piece of shit acrylic frame printer whats the best way to upgrade it to something metal. Is there any frame I can build that wont be incredibly ugly?

>>1297162
Aluminum extrusions are usually the way to go. Standardized with lots of options for hardware, compared to custom cut metal.

>>1297164
Thank you anon, those looks pretty cool.

>>1297105
>Mine is fantasic

I get the feeling that you guys can't see the forest for the trees. Look at the image you posted, anon, and tell me that anyone in the world would pay 50 cents for that at a yard sale.

Why does this thread never have someone posting a build that would make me want to get a printer?

Will this cheap silicone based lube make my prints sexy and intimate?
>>1291984

>>1297237
No lube will fix the surface roughness of prints.

Epoxy coating works fine, you might not even need lube, it will be glass smooth.

>>1297242
I meant to lube the machine for smoother prints

>>1291984
What projects are you working on?
Burning in the summer here so attempting to print my own knock off miniature desk dyson bladeless fan.

>>1297242
>Epoxy coating works fine, you might not even need lube, it will be glass smooth.
personally I like using a brown paper towel soaked in acetone on ABS whenever I need something smooth. works just like sand paper, but you gotta work kinda quick or the fibers will start fusing to the plastic

>>1297248
Wont change a bit, unless your machine is already seizing up.
>>1297316
Wont the paper towel fibers stick in there?
>>1297262
Now i sort of wanna make a thing like this: >>1297248

>>1294763
How did you get that many sales? I've been trying to sell my (not 3d printed) stuff and I've only made 2 sales so far...

>>1297224
If you're into shilling nonsense on etsy, no 3d printer that's reasonably priced is going to print something that requires zero touch up. I get the feeling that all you think about is money, but I'm just enjoying a hobby.

>>1297335
You want the surface of the print to rub off on the paper towel, not the other way around. the trick is keeping it just wet enough enough to melt the surface, but not so wet that it turns into a gooey mess. its a little more work than just doing a vapor bath, but you have more control to smooth some areas more than others.

>>1292276
My mk2s had trouble, holiday shipping, overloaded but will get there

>>1292276
He fell for the prusa maymay

Thinking of printing a speaker, could I paint the interior to make the frame more sound/airproof?
Only asking because I've noticed my prints aren't perfect like pic related.

>>1297567
As in pic related is an example of an imperfect print

This is the good shit, right?

>>1297567
Short answer is yes, you could paint it and it would help.

It looks like you're printing too hot.

>>1297596
Super Lube is better if you can get it.

>>1297608
Decreasing the temp made it worse, I was printing at 190°c in that print. 45mm/s. I'm guessing part of the issue is that I've never lubricated the rods and I've noticed at times the movement can be a little shuddery.

>>1297612
An increase in quality is all I'm after, I don't need the best. That can was 10aud and should last a while.
Hopefully it'll let me bump up print speed to 55mm/s or faster without serious degradation in print quality.

>>1297614
Okay, cleared the dust off the rods, applied some white lithium grease, and it's printing so much smoother now. Print quality has also noticeably improved at the same speed. Still not perfect but it's still an improvement.

I guess it's too much to expect top quality prints from the Anet a8, considering its price...

>>1296710
>>1296712
I'll see what I can do to play with that. Thank you for your response.

>>1297105
I just used crypto to buy a CR-10 and got a blower and the V6 clone upgrade kit. If you have any tips or upgrades I would appreciate it.

What filaments do you recommend? I want to build parts to upgrade the 3DP and also print parts to build my MPCNC. I'm hoping to also get into nylon for "airsoft"

I upgraded my x carriage and my x axis bracket and somehow my prints are all getting thin webbing.
Already put 8 for retraction distance and 130 for my non print speed. Lowering the temp caused week layer adhesion. Help?

>>1297818
>130 for my non print speed
Jesus...

>>1297772
FDM nylons warp like a bitch, they also are incredibly "flexible" to help combat that use a much higher infill like 40-50% with 3 walls.

Get a sheet of PEI, will make life with PLA so much easier, getting the bed up to temps for ABS is going to be real fucking hard.

For PLA's, ABS & PETG I like atomic and push plastic a lot. If you do go the PEI sheet, use glue stick for PETG otherwise you'll pretty much destroy the PEI trying to remove the print.

Special fillaments, nylons taulman / 3DXTech
Others, Proto pasta, colorfab

>>1297822
Why? I was following this site surely the basic principles still apply.

>https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/retraction-just-say-no-to-oozing

>>1297673
Update to this, after applying white lithium lube it can now print quite decently at 65mm/s depending on the complexity of what I'm printing, which is roughly a 50% increase in print speed.

I'm very happy with the results.

>>1297772
I've used Hatchbox and Makergeeks. So far, most impressed with Makergeeks hot pla (235° print temp) as it makes it easier to switch between PLA and ABS and I've gotten decent prints out of it. I haven't tried PETG yet, but I have >4 kg from makergeeks that I'm about to start doing test prints with this week.

I've got a fang fan shroud and a z support brace. So far I haven't had any reason to upgrade any other parts. I am considering upgrading/adding dampers to my motors. If I'm printing circles and all the motors are going at once I can hear in my room from across the hall even with the door shut. I was given quieter fan for psu that I haven't installed yet, but was told it makes a big difference on the noise level*

>friend also has CR10, but has a kid he doesn't want to wake up when its sleeping. He's done all the quieting upgrades and says it makes a huge difference.

>>1298085
I've been using silicone grease, is it just a use case difference for rods or am I fucked up for using it.

I have pla bushings, have worked way better than my old ball bearings but work differently and had to reduce jerk, but increase acceleration.

I have a contact with IGUS from another project, I could get whatever I want at a good discount bushing/bearing-wise.

>>1298209
Idk, I'm guessing anything to lubricate the rods and make it easier to move should help.

>>1298209
Aren't igus plastic bearings self lubing? They're like graphite impregnated or something and have low friction by default and even as they wear.

>>1298085
Not sure white lithium was the right choice anon, I remember a certain type of lithium not going too well with bearing plastic housings. Probably fine though since it's not like industrial equipment that needs to be run for years on end. I use red lithium.

For better prints maybe you should look into better rods and bearings from Misumi. If you think the grease alone helped that much better linear motion guides might help more. Or check the squaring of your chassis

>>1298250
yeh, my pla bushings aren't igus, I had to use their rails for another project, the only igus on my printer right now is two xiros lead screw mounts

pla is just plastic, it'll deform, wear and miss align without the correct grease/ casing, rather than self cleaning, lubing and expensive igus.

>>1298099
Don't forget to put dampers on the X and Y steppers.

>>1298250
>They're like graphite impregnated or something and have low friction by default and even as they wear

They use some weird proprietary tribo-polymer whatever. They're not that slippery at all when you slide them against a steel/anodized aluminum rod, unlike pure PTFE bushings or PTFE + 25% carbon fiber/graphite bushings, but then again they're supposed to last a lot longer

pic related: one LM8UU made from PTFE +25% carbon fiber, custom made in a CNC lathe.

My cr10 finally arrived. got everything setup and ready to print and than i found that the entire menu is in chinese.... is this normal or is there an english language option that is not listed anywhere in the small pamphlet manual that came with it?

>>1297105
Impressed with the color change.

My CR-10 drops the extruder down a couple mm when I try to switch filament, either that or its me pushing it down when Im swapping. Either way all my color swap prints either have a shitty line of squished layers where the new color starts, or it fails to recover whatsoever.

No fucking clue how to fix other than getting the dual z screw.

>>1298656
>No fucking clue how to fix other than getting the dual z screw.

How about adding a second extruder and using a Y-splitter?

>>1298656
no idea what firmware the cr10 is using but on marlin you can set your printer to rehome after a filament swap

holyshit this duet is advanced, has the auto restart shit and a lot of cool safety features, but I have one thing, can i just fuck all this "learning new firmware" bullshit and move to marlin2?

it runs the same chip as a due/duo or whatever it is called, but is one chip instead of a chip with a ramps and has a high current 256 stepper you cant get in a stepstick, (but uses same protocol to change modes, so still compatible)

i THINK it MAY be supported, but IDK if it is the old duet that had compatibility or this new one does.

also what is a good current to start with for dual lead screws@256 microstepping, first time with software defined current control.

>>1298705
You should ask on their forums, the firmware developer is very active and knows a lot of shit

>>1298662
Never actually tested it but I may be able to rehome it during the swap process.

But if that worked I fail to understand why it cant return to the coordinates it needs to even after going down a couple mm.

>>1298652
Learn Chinese filthy round-eye

>>1298874
Should I learn Mandarin or Cantonese?

>>1298921

Writing is the same.

>>1298874
Im trying mate but these moon runes are confusing

>>1298652
This is normal. There are several youtube vids of people putting them together and how to make sure that your belts are tight.

>>1298656
>My CR-10 drops the extruder down a couple mm when I try to switch filament
Yeah, mine does this too sometimes when I'm swapping filament

I was a little nervous about the spool change as it wasn't planned, but I was going to run out of the white before the print was done anyway, so figured it was a good opportunity to try it. Just hit pause and did a quick swap.

>me pushing it down when Im swapping
Made sure I was super careful about this.

Anyone know the G-commandes to adjust motor power? Can't find them on google

So I've been trying to switch to Fusion 360 for portability and also because I'm branching out from 3D printers to mills and lasers as well.

Is there a decent way to get from Fusion 360 to Inkscape?

Or is there maybe just a way better to do 2D svg than 360/inkscape. Sorry for the semi-tangent question I was just hopeful to get everyone under one program set.

>>1298723
nope, cortex M4 ≠ M3 (although same manufacturer family)

there are some open M7(an efferent/more powerful M4 with similar instruction sets) boards that are being developed, maybe then.

>>1299215
what board/ firmware are you using?
https://matterhackers.dozuki.com/Guide/Tuning+Motor+Current/37
if marlin, there is the M907 command http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M907.html

>>1299188
ugly language that needs to die before it spreads, dont learn IGN 9/10

Anyone know of any DIY galvo/laser SLA printers that aren't too hard to build, aka can be made mostly with off-the-shelf and printed parts?

>>1299297
I have a printrbot simple and I'm using repetier host. I'm not sure if those are the firmware

>>1299312
>printrbot simple
that should be marlin, first do M909 to look at your default current settings

M907 to set current (looks like M907 X50 Y50 Z50 E50, 50 being the current value you want to set)

M909 again to confirm the set values in the printer

>>1299317
oh, M910 to save the values,

look at this and follow his tuning guides https://youtu.be/bItYRMLGoVc

>>1299297
if you know how to change this thing to english then i would not have to learn it lol. Currently i've found out how to level and heat the bed, slow and steady with chinese.

>>1299334
>melzi board
eww, last time I saw one of those was my monoprice piece of crap.
for the cr10 get an arduino uno and flash over a bootloader to change the firmware to marlin(or whatever)

creality never flashed a bootloader so unless you add one yourself you will be stuck with that old software and moonrunes forever.

>>1299311
Would also like to know. .

After years of neglect I'm trying to restore my prusa i3, but I'm finding a wall here.

When I connect the RAMPS everything seems fine, I recieve data temperature and I don't find any error messages but no matter what I try to motors don't move, I have already tried changing the pololus and trying only one motor but to no avail, so how can I check if I have managed to kill 5 NEMTA 17 motors or to be totally sure if the motors aren't really the problem?

>>1299297
Yellow people: 2 000 000 000+
Pink people: 500 000 000 and falling
Get with the winning team.

>>1299486
It's pretty hard to kill a stepper motor. Check your power connections to the board and crank the pololus imo.

>>1299502
http://old.moe.gov.cn//publicfiles/business/htmlfiles/moe/s8316/201409/174957.html
sorry, no they cant speak Chinese

考虑到我国目前仍有30%人口不会说普通话,另外70%人口中只有10%可以用比较标准的普通话顺畅沟通的现实,推广普通话、提升国民国家通用语言能力的任务依然十分艰巨

>>1299502
>Picking quantity over quality.

>>1291984
Just wanted to pop in and thank everyone here. Your advice was incredible in setting up and starting out with my 3d printer. I'm having a blast with it and printing out lithophanes for christmas cards this year.

>>1299486
Are you sure you didn't set the position to or beyond the max reported size of the printer in whatever software you're using? Have you tried homing? And are you sure the current is correct?

>>1299311
There's an old Instructable for one

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Laser-3D-Printer-Stereolithography-at-Ho/

So we bought a heating bed for our printer but I swear to god the instructions for this model of printer are extremely shitty. We got a BQ Hephestos, a modified Prusa i3, and we're trying to set it up but we're having lotsa issues.

First of all, the heating bed is conected completly to the printer or some cables go to the power supply and some to the printer chipset?
We also bought a new power supply of 360W. Is the power supply only for the ehating bed or we have to replace the default power supply for the new one?
And msot importantly, where the fuck do we plug the heated bed in the chipset? the instructions say little to nothing and while the printer seems to detect the bed, whenever we change temeprature the bed itself doesn't get warm.

>>1299602

Asuming that the guys at jewbq use RAMPS 1.4 this is the wiring you have to do.

>>1299615
Pretty sure they are completly different. Here's our chipset.

>>1299629
That shit board doesn't have an integrated controller for the heated bed, you need an extra component to drive it, and it doesn't look like it's compatible with the external drivers that work with RAMPs. It's some weird 5-pin cable that connects the driver and the main board.

>>1299630
Please, tell me those aren't expensive.

>>1299631
They probably aren't, but they don't sell them separate as far as I can tell, only as part of a 180 euro heated bed upgrade kit.
If you want to fiddle with it, it's probably possible to figure out which cable does what, the headers for the bed are the ones sticking up on top, marked HBP. There has to be one line for the thermistor and one line giving PWM from the controller, unless they came up with a more unique solution to the non-issue that is running the heated bed. Once you know which one is which, you can just hook up a MOSFET and the thermistor and have it run.
Alternatively you can switch to a $15 RAMPS controller.

>>1299634
>Alternatively you can switch to a $15 RAMPS controller.

You mean changing the chip entirely? That sounds more possible. I imagine I'd also need to change the software and such. The LCD display on top of the printer can stay, right?

>>1299634
Also the Hephestos one uses only 3 engines, while the image you shared it shows 4. Would it work with all the Hephestos cables and shit?

>>1299636
>>1299634
Shit, ignore the last post, I still think about XYZ where Y is the height, we have the same engine number. The question about the cables still hold.

>>1299635
The software may or may not be compatible, it looks like the LCD should work with different firmware too though. The stepper motors will work the same with RAMPS.
The Hephestos control board is basically the same as a RAMPS controller, just rearranged and put on a single board, whereas a RAMPS is the Arduino Mega, RAMPS shield and the 4-5 stepper motor drivers. By that logic it should be possible to figure out how to run a heatbed without the official BQ part, I'd suggest looking into that before switching to RAMPS.

>>1299653
Yeah, we're taking notes on every advice and taking all options into account. We'll try to get the chip for the heated bed first if we can.
We're also gonna need to check the software of the current version, as we updated it today and for some reason the extrusor temperature control stopped working properly (it heats when told, but it never colds)

Thanks for everything, btw.

/tg/ here stopping by for the eternal question of is there a good enough home printer for warhams?

>>1300017
Print quality hasn't improved much in the past couple years, printers only got cheaper to buy.

>>1300028
Fug, not even these new resin printers?

I want my 3d printing revolution and I want it now.

>>1300017
SLA and DLP printers are.

>>1300035
if your definition of "home printer" is a $2-4k machine then yeah.

>>1300184
Nigga have you seen how much warhammer costs?

>>1300246
Warhammer minis don't give you cancer on touch; uncured resin might. Something else to keep in mind.

>>1294707
>does this cost you a lot in electricity to run them all at the same time?
I have three lulzbot minis and three Monoprice Select Mini V2s

775 watts peak (heating up), 500 watts average as indicated by the KillAwatt

>>1294707
>does this cost you a lot in electricity to run them all at the same time?
I have three lulzbot minis and three Monoprice Select Mini V2s

775 watts peak (heating up), 500 watts average as indicated by the KillAwatt
>>1297339
>How did you get that many sales?
Nerf is a niche hobby, but it has a very active and helpful community. I just kept posting about it on Reddit, Discord, eBay, Etsy, and after a while got some buzz from Youtube reviews.

Orders for blasters are currently out to #245. But I've also been selling accessories, replacement parts, etc.

When will I be able to print something other than plastic or resin?

>tfw no futuristic 3D printer GF

>>1300524
Soon brother, soon

>>1300524
You can print a metal girlfriend.

>>1300543
>tfw the T-1000 sex bot will never exist in your lifetime

>>1300545
Not with that attitude. Get to diy'in you lazy bum.

>>1300248
Neither will uncured resin. Modern resins are low VOC, even the worst industrial ones. It's no worse than house paint. But you should obviously keep it ventilated. Long term exposure will cause problems and possibly cancer, especially in the state of california

My cr10 has serious z banding. Would a duel z axis mod help this or am I missing something?

>>1300562
>especially in the state of california
I'm convinced that California is the carcinogen, and all their experiments are tainted

I really don't like the look of most transparent filament. But it can be useful to figuring out what infill is doing and where.

Thinking about making a hypercube evo with my current prusa. I can't choose between a silicone heated bed and aluminium sheet or a pcb heatbed like on the prusa.

>>1300599

You need to carefully investigate how the wobble is being transferred to your other axes. Adding parts willy-nilly means shooting blind - it may or may not fix the problem.

>>1300906
you can get a carbon-silicon sheet with a silicone heater, light, fast heating, and easy to work with.

>>1301058
>carbon-silicon sheet with a silicone heater
A what? Can you post a link I want to see. My 6mm aluminum + 3mm glass + PEI is out of control even if it's perfectly flat and a great printing surface. I have a Z-axis bed so being light would help a lot

>>1301127
priview https://www.selloscope.com/bez/Carbon-silicon-Build-Bed-Plate-Printing-Surface-for-3D/B06Y22YCNB

there was one on amazon awhile ago but seems to be lost, silicon wafers are normally used on a delta for the quick heat up, idk about these but look cool af

>>1301142
also wafers are designed to be as flat as possible when manufactured.

>>1301142
And it doesn't have any problem heating? Where can I get a 300x300mm one?

I need a material that is rubbery and has a grip to it. Something that your fingers stick to. Like a thumb cap. Its for a device Im making that you slid with your finger tips.
I dont want it to be super soft rubber, but more a hard eraser type. I was literally going to cut into eraser blocks to make this but I thought about looking into 3d printable materials
How good is ninjaflex. Im only going to use this for a thin layers probably no more than half a centimeter so I dont think its a good fit for this. From what I read it only gets stiff when printing at 100% infill and thick objects.
Are there any good alternatives (that are also cheap because ninjaflex is expensive af).

>>1301165
this page started my search for a square silicon printer bed https://www.matterhackers.com/news/choosing-the-right-3d-print-bed-surface

I've been waiting a month and a half for a printer from gearbest, now it turns out all user passwords have been hacked and they did nothing about it for days. Why are they such a shit fucking company?

>>1301164
You could check out this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-silicone-heating-pad-heater-220V-500W-400-400-mm-for-3d-printer-heat-bed/32612060131.htm
I'm thinking about buying one mysel and sticking it to the underside of an alunmminum sheet for a heated bed. I'll dril 2 holes in the aluminium bed for an e3d like thermistor mounting system too

Could anyone help me figure out what's going on? I just got my first printer, a prusa mk3, and tried to do a test print directly from the provided sd card and for some reason there seems to be a rough patch on the lower front side.
It's a perfect print everywhere else and is even fine on higher layers on the front which confuses me because if there was an issue I'd expect it to affect my whole print.
Would anyone happen to have any ideas what the problem is here?

>>1301165
https://seacans.com/products/uglyflex-red-1-75mm-0-5kg?variant=1179926343

>>1301293
rotate benchy in a better fan axis, cooling there is tricky.

>>1301232
works, you would need a tramming sensor then

>>1301232
Won't load for me for some reason but I have a DC silicone heater and a keenovo AC one waiting to be put in as soon as I print a case for the relay. They usually come with a thermistor in the center don't they? Both of mine did and even the DC one which just cost like 20 bucks had one

>>1301335
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-silicone-heating-pad-heater-220V-500W-400-400-mm-for-3d-printer-heat-bed/32612060131.html oops,

>>1301358
you could put that on the bottom of whatever you want (aluminum works), just depends on if you want another layer for removing plate or flat prints on glass/silicon.

Hello there

Im thinking about getting a 3d printer,
should i even get one?

How much should i expect to spend? I dont want to print any serious stuff, just for fun

I looked at the renkforce rf100xl, what do you think?

>>1301400
what is your bracket
cheapo(60-200) a8
low-end/consumer (200-400) press button print stuff/ actual kits
medium/low-level custom (300-900) this is a person's 2nd printer or a cr-10
high end FDM/ SLA (700-5000)
5000+ SLS or polyjet shit- why shapeways costs so much

>>1301408
ayy like 500 or lower

>>1301410
list your prioritys
ease of use
ease of building
size
upgradable
extra cost down the line
build quality
style A E S T H E T I C S

also
features (elaborate)
end use (elaborate)

>>1301415
ease of use: high priority
ease of building: high priority (prebuild?)
size: dunno like 50x50x50cm?
upgradable: n0
extra cost down the line: low cost plis
build quality: good, i want METAL construction
style: i want it to look bueno

features: ehhh idk single extruder
end use: just for fun shit, not gonna start a buisness printing shit for now

>>1301418
>50x50x50cm?
there are very few with that size and your other options
http://a.co/aECvQw7 peek at cost

cr-10 is good for someone like you(~35cm), but if you are willing on a 20-30cm build area there are some cheaper printers...

>>1301422

Nooo i didnt mean print size, i meant like printer size

>>1301424
ok, I'm going to get flack for posting a delta but this has good customer support, as well as good ease of use. also not locked like the cr-10.

only has mostly metal construction(other than arms), but fast and should not give major issues.

http://a.co/aSVSMSy

Anyone have a Moai SLA printer or a wanhao duplicator 7? Thinking about picking one of the two up, not sure which one. The wanhao should be able to achieve higher quality prints with its higher spot/XY resolution right?

>>1301428
huh okay, it doesnt seem to be available in my country

>>1301428
Found it and it costs the equivalent of 600$, thats too much

>>1301437
damn it is only 400 here

cetus or just a cr-10/clone.

>>1301437
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v5Wjyyeuzks

>>1301446
Ok cool voice and screwdriver the guy has

so what makes this printer special? i dont get it

>>1301450
It's a pretty good printer in terms of print quality but there's a lot of cons:
-Heated bed is extra and is externally controlled (can't leave it running and have it switch off at the end of the print)
-Inane, proprietary slicer
-Cheap all metal hot end (refuses to work with a lot of filaments)
-Mandatory rafts

>>1301452
Ok what do you think about the Flashforge Finder and Renkforce rf100 xl

>>1301452
you dont have to use default slicer (it is shit tho)
if you get blue tape plate is fine for pla (this is why I dont have one, pla and abs with hotbed only on the printer)
hotend is cheap to replace, but pla only on this guy


>>1301455
Flashforge Finder is old, Renkforce is good, but seems like it is also pla/elastic only on their site.

do you care about what software you are using?

>>1301455
I have a Flashforge Creator Pro so the Finder would get my vote. It too has a proprietary slicer (though you can generate X3G code from other slicers, it's a little bit of a hassle) but FlashPrint is a lot better put together than the one for the Cetus.

The Flashforge is a work horse, once you get everything set up (bed leveling can be a pain but it's going to be a bit easier with a single extruder) it stays that way and can be run more or less continuously without issue. The Finder doesn't have a heated bed so be prepared to use skirts.

>>1301458
yes it can do PLA, PLA Compounds and elastic stuff

I dont really care about the software as long as i can download a dildo or something and print it

>>1301459

ok cool, ill look into both and get the one for me

>>1301462
if you dont care than >>1301459 is right, get the finder

>>1301455
I would suggest you to buy something with heated bed. Look at this guy how much problem he has: >>1299602
Take a look at wanhao duplicator i3 plus (400€), or some chinese import printers such as anycuby i3 mega or creality cr10,...
For 250€ you can get rebranded Makerselect mini , sold in EU by 3dPrima. This thing was quite popular in USA.

>>1301499
Whats a heated bed needed for?

>>1301512
Pretty much any plastic other than PLA, and even PLA benefits. Get a heated bed.

>>1301524
Hm, what are some printers at 400-500 with a heated bed?

>>1301527
What am I, a search engine? Google it Jamal.

Attempting to manufacture KISS Hot End. Any thoughts on design?

http://reprap.org/wiki/KISS_Hot_End

>>1301547
exactly like it looks on the pictures you linked?

Are there any good alternatives to the Wanhao Duplicator 7 under $1000?

>>1301600
Whore yourself to a fatty to get the extra cash for the moai

>>1301639
Isn't the moai just a knockoff Form 2? Is it any good? It has like 2x lower XY resolution of the Wanhao. I just need accuracy as I'll be recasting in casting reisn

>>1301657
Make your own. A 5.5 inch 2k lcd with an array of uv leds, a raspberry pi, arduino, leadscrew and stepper for the z axis.

>>1301557
In wiki pics are outdated, there is pdf down in said article, with actual version. Main difference is PTFE tube that connect brass with insulator. That way it seal potential leaks. As for heatblock i plan using aluminum with two 6x30 12V DC heater catriges. And mount hot end into wade extruder.

>>1301657
Better XY accuracy then the form 2, same z accuracy as the form2, same 405nm laser so can use the same resins.

Only meh point is that you use something like b9 creator/ meshmixer to make support then you use cura to gen the gcode. But good system, decent support and it gets good results.

>>1301723
Wouldn't the vat and build plate be hard to sit?

>>1301790
Donyiu have any pics of your prints? It measurements. I want <100 micron

>>1301891
Didn't even realize my phone posting went full retard.

>>1301891
>Wouldn't the vat and build plate be hard to diy?

>>1301891
>Do you have any pics of your prints? And measurements. I want <100 micron accuracy

>>1299267
Prettty sure Adobe illustrator is the industry standard.

>>1299267
I don't quite remember but yes, just google how to create laser cutting paths in fusion 360. You can save the sketches to a DXF and then open it in inkscape to make your changes and resave as a SVG

>>1301891
Don't have a maoi going to be my next printer, check out their forums, shit tons of active people there.

>>1301968
Depends on if you need dimensioned paths. I personally use SolidWorks to sketch out a design, turn it into a drawing, export it as a dxf/dwg, open it in DraftSight, then re-export it as a PDF/vector dxf/dwg. Finally I can put that shit into AutoCAD and send it to the cutter.

What would people go for for a printer say $1500aud plus another 1000 say for extras what would you get? For making something like a nerf gun like ol bud. Or is it better to get more but cheaper ones and make them better to print faster?

Just got my dads old one
Where do I start?

>>1302188
>Buy new longer metal extrusion
>Get a new larger print bed
>Replace rods/threaded rod/belts with larger/longer ones
>???
>Profit
If not just print a benchie or something.

>>1302188
Short term goals: move the spool holder off the frame and onto your desk; you don't want that much weight swinging around on top of your frame, reduces accuracy
Long term goals: look into some sort of bowden extruder to increase speed/accuracy
Build new printer

>>1302201
Thx. That way I know where to start with this.

>>1294686
Didnt think you'd be on /diy/, I'm about to start printing one of your blasters as soon as I can get my printer to stop fucking up.

>>1302834
What's wrong with it?

>>1302834
>Didnt think you'd be on /diy/
I'm everywhere. You cannot escape me.

>>1303001
>why can't I merge with this constructicon...?

>>1302942
My chinese Melzi board stopped working so I replaced it with a Ramps and now i'm getting skipped steps on the X axis.

>removed angry eyebrows
ok I guess, i suppose I can just undo that
>fucked with the shape of the spines
reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
>removed nostrils
reeeeeeEEEEEEEEEEEEE
>removed all curved surfaces
REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

seeing normies make models and shit is so fucking infuriating

people take great models and make a small great change, then they think they need to do more and more and more until it's a shitty rip off of the original

all I want is this
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2189652

with it's original eyebrows and face form here
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:613445


HOW FUCKING HARD IS THAT

>>1303111
>bitches about people modding other people's stls instead of learning how to do it himself
What the fuck are you on about?

>>1303042
Because the colors are reversed. Try this one.

>>1296396
Look into 3DHubs, that's pretty much exactly what you're thinking of.

>>1300028
How big are those? The filament next to the left of the front-left one makes me think they're 2-3x bigger than they're supposed to be, at least.

What are some good slot-slider designs that can be printed separately, without using extra components?

Third time casting the jellyfish with the same recycled thermoplastic. Learned a lot more! Wanting a mold redesign, but that'll take at least 20 more hours of print time, and this is burning through filament real quick.

Fuckups:
-Material bubbling due to mold testing for watertightness the day prior, mold did not dry enough.
-Slow pouring, with the effect of bubbles rising to the surface, didn't completely remove bubbling defects
-Lack of surrounding rings around mold halves led to the mold attempting to splay around the seamlines.
-Material reheating (around 7 times overall) had made the material too soft and sticky for "display"

Good stuff and learnednings:
-Split cap and "tentacle" design was good! Cap and tunnel releasing as intended!
-Simpler tentacle design aided in mold release, had to flip it but that's fine.
-Incremental pour would mean bubbles rise to the surface and would be let to cool, then a hot pour afterwards would let existing bubbles rise up a shorter distance than the entire length of the jellyfish.
-The smoke may perhaps have been the volatile thermoplastic hardener of sorts. Increased air mixing into the fluid material(such as whisking or flicking the pan around while hot) made noticeably more smoke than letting it sit.
-Shape retaining rings helped with mold deformation as I had three! The areas between them were taped up with a circumference of tape.
-Throwing the whole thing in the freezer once it was mostly solid helped cool the damn thing.
-Don't bother testing for complete sealing! Teflon tape works fine to fill in the gaps, but these materials aren't thin enough as a fluid to seep out.
-An extra cm or so as a lip of sorts, not only will it help the bubbles stay relatively up close to the surface, it will also help you trim out bubbly areas for the final product.


Otherwise, throwing out this material and will be using something else. This'll at least clear up some space in the room.

>>1303607
Looks like a proper jellyfish, good job. But does it feel like a proper jellyfish? What sort of hardness is it?
Where you got the materials from?
Whats the pot life of the material, maybe vacuum degassing could help with bubbles if theres time for it.

My printer sort of died, but i have an order on CR10. When i get it ill finally get to print my Christmas ornament. Ill use it next Christmas i guess.

>>1303612
Comparing to its original material, it's a lot softer. My comparison would be that the material is just as soft as lukewarm cheese from Pizza Hut's stuffed crust. Mind you it's got a lot more volume to this than that much cheese, so be wary of your interpretation. I can't vouch for any sort of relateable silicone hardness as I've never bothered with silicone casting(I may, perhaps in the future with enough time and fucks to give and take), but it's definitely a lot softer than Naughty Extinct Lizard's softest material.

Materials are from old jellyfish that are no longer in display.

Pot life, frankly indefinite. Degassing will be a problem since the hardener/plasticizer is really volatile and can potentially ooze out faster in a low pressure environment. Degassing during casting will also be a problem since you need to keep everything very warm, maybe about 150degC? The PLA starts to soften up during casting. Might help to degass when doing this with a material that isn't as plastic as this in relatively higher temperatures. Most of good ones are pressure injected, and the ones that are average in build quality are poured or trimmed from a larger sprue, and the worst ones in build quality are simply poured and let to cool.

>>1303618
Now i have to get a pizza for reference.

>>1303623
In it's current state, it is far too soft for my purposes, and my original intent. My first cadt was fine, my second cast unusable, and this third one too soft.

There is a market for this softness, and I am not part of it.

>>1303618
>Naughty Extinct Lizard
kek

Anyone know where to get good fully supported linear shafts? Miami only carries unsupported shafts and their other linear motion guides are fucking expensive