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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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1280630 No.1280630 [Reply] [Original]

The leads lifted off the USB board. How to resolder the leads back to my USB and be usable again?

>> No.1280635

any fine point soldering iron will do that if you've a steady hand, just be careful how long you apply heat and how much solder you put on.

>> No.1280670

>>1280635
The leads came off the board I got no place to resolder. I don't know where I need to create new leads.

>> No.1280675

>>1280670

You have a few options and they all are difficult.

1. gently scrape the coating off of that blue trace and solder a tiny wire to it and the connector.

2. solder directly to the chip lead

3. (easiest?) find a thru hole in that trace and stick your tiny wire through it. you might need to gently scrape it first if it has any sort of coating.

>> No.1280679

>>1280630
fine wire, tinned.
Clean off the lacquer that covers the trace.
Flux. Tin the trace
Lay the wire down and solder it.

>> No.1280684

>>1280630
>>1280670
best bet is to scrape if you have no experience with soldering smd. use a really sharp knife.

>> No.1280691

Everyone here is generally right. Not to be a dick, but just to clear up a terminology issue, you broke the 'pad' on the pcb and it looks like also the 'lead' on the connector.

Not sure how you could gave done this with everyday wear and tear, but anyway, everyone is right. Use an xacto knife to scrape some of the green paint off of the traces near the broken pads, then apply a small amount of flux/solder to the freshly exposed copper. Next, prepaid a small piece of wire by melting a small amount of solder to the ends. Then solder the small wire between the solder on the trace and the solder on the leg, or lead, of the usb connector. Do this for each of the two broken connections.

You will need a fine point soldering iron, solder with a flux core in it, an xacto knife, and some wire around the 26awg to 30awg size. If you have the right kind of wire, you don't need a tool to strip the insulation from the ends, just use the heat from the soldering iron to melt the insulation and let it creep back a little bit, then hit it with a piece of solder to tin the wire. Adding solder to the ends of the wire first makes it a lot easier to solder the wire to the board.

>> No.1280761
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1280761

>>1280630
>not buying from alimeme
>buying scandisk shit instead
Take the opportunity to buy a new one my friend.

>> No.1282705

>>1280761
You really think OP bought it?

>> No.1282761

>>1280679
fine wire, tinned
soldering iron, nice and hot
lacquer, off
flux
tin the trace
solder it on

Beautiful

>> No.1282994

>>1280691
>Not sure how you could gave done this with everyday wear and tear

It's called shitty mechanical design. There is no strain relief, the plug puts stress directly on the solder connections. I've had to repair one myself, before. But it wasn't this badly broken.

>> No.1284767

Tinned wires, keep them short.
Lots of flux
Any soldering iron

>> No.1284786

>>1280679
>Clean off the lacquer that covers the trace.
>>1280675
>the coating off of that blue trace and

FWIW it's called solder mask, it's often epoxy-based. The easiest option to get rid of it is indeed scrap it off.

>> No.1284803

>>1280630
>The leads are weak?
>You're weak.

>> No.1285171

>>1284803
Outstanding.