/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1260693

First for buying a cheap aliexpress chinkshit kit is the best way to learn

Why does this happen?
I tried with different amount vertical and horizontal shells, but slic3er always put some junk like pic related on the inside of the print. It wouldn't bother me because its on the inside but wastes so much printing time.

>>1260708
Turns out you have to untick "Only infill where needed" even tho it is disabled because i was printing without infill.

>>1260708

Do you have internal supports on?

Is that model actually flat at that layer, or is there a minor difference in height you haven't noticed before?

>>1260693
Cool. My Apple sign made into the new thread! Hopefully come this Friday I have a fully working sign to compare to the model.

>>1260734

Enjoy your 15 minutes bro. When I steal your ideas and make a Commodore 64 light we'll see who's laughing!!!

>>1260741
I would be ok with that. Also, good luck on soldering the C part. It's going to be a pain in the ass.

Thinking about doing an enclosure on the cheap, I already have some plywood on hand and some of the plastic bubble r3 insulation on a roll or debating about picking up some of the foamboards and making it out of that

A friend of mine asked me to make a silicone jellyfish for him. I printed a shell and the core, put them together and filled it with 2 component silicone. The print was awful, and failed just before the last layers.

The silicone was a Smooth-on Dragon skin 10 A. It filled the mold pretty good, i didnt degas it so its a little bit bubbly. It was sort of hard to demold, i turned the jellyfish inside out so the core popped out. I dont think any release agent would have helped here.

Id have to say 10A shore hardness is still too hard for a jellyfish. It would be more suitable for a fungus or unicorn horn.

who also has a cardbox enclosure here? mine works well for ABS, no warping so far

>>1261125
Get to Ikea, look for a STUVA cabinet.

Its a line of cases, one of which is a fuck off half meter square box, that you can also get doors for, for like £20-30 odd.

What I did for my Anet a8.

>>1261116

A friend of mine asked me to print this, what even is it? I get the feeling you would know

>>1261238
Obviously thats a Christmas tree ornament.

>>1261116
>>1261238

Gods bless you pervo printer.

Sup /diy/udes

I work with 3D printers for a living. It's meager work and provides something of a life. I use Form2 and EnvisionTec printers.

Ask away.

>>1261483
Ballpark figure for a envisiontec vector, non HD before service contracts and filling the vat up.

Things to look out for if I do manage to find a used one at sub 40k before consumables, I know the projector, its bulb, the vat and the plate anything else to be sure to checkout/ ask about a used machine

>>1261483
What's your favorite color?

>>1261483
How do your lungs feel

>>1261238
Something thats painful, even with a sheepskin on it
Ask me how I know

I'm looking at getting a 3D printer to print architectural models, what would people recommend? I'm happy to assemble myself and would prefer opensource but dont really want the hassle of chinkshit. Doesnt have to be fast, but the bigger the print area the better.

>>1261574
Just get chinkshit and then upgrade whatever one you get to make it safe and easy to use. None of them are "bad".

>swapping out filament
>see this
JUST

>>1261116
pretty cool. You should definitely acetone smooth the living fuck out of the core tho. All those little burs are going to make demolding a pain, increase the likelihood of tearing, and give mold and bacteria more places to hide.


been toying with the idea of trying some custom marine biology models for fun, but I hardly even use the ones I have.

Sup /3dpd/. I've been wanting to take the plunge on a Prusa. Should I get a mk2 or drop a $150 more and wait a few months for the mk3?

>>1261583
ONE JOB

>>1261553

Am I gonna shred my pooper?

>>1261652
Yeah.

Sand it then coat it with epoxy or lacquer or urethane.

Anyone have any experience with the Rostock products? I've got a V2 with the upgraded HE280 hot end. Super fun diy kit, but my prints are really lacking in quality. I'm using cura as my slicer but the layers seem all jacked up. I'll be able to supply pics tonight when I get off work.

>>1261670
You need to level your buildplate

>>1261672
Did that. Multiple times. The forums had a pile of tutorials on it.

I'm looking for a nice table of mechanical properties for 3D printing PLA but I'm having a hard time finding anything good. Is it because there's a lot of variability in filament quality, depending on brand? Or is it because most hobbyists don't give a shit about yield strengths and Young's moduli?

>>1261579

Can you recommend a good place to buy a chinkshit printer? Might start with that then get a Prusa mk3 when that comes out.

>>1261680

Both, to be honest

>>1261713

AliExpress

>>1261680
PLA is brittle and gets soft at approx 60 °C; for mechanical parts better use ABS, ASA or PC

>>1261670
does this printer have auto bed leveling?; which materials are you using? you can try with PLA and slow speeds first

>>1261144
Why not just print components to build a cabinet

>>1261774
What makes PLA "brittle" is that it doesn't flex much before breakage like ABS but it actually has a higher tensile strength even more so if you anneal it.

ABS/ASA's strongest properities is the temp resistance which can be fixed by getting a high temp PLA and baking it (will be stronger then normal PLA doing the same thing)

Some examples PLA tensile strength 37MPa while ABS is 27MPa but PLA can only flex up to 6% before breaking while ABS can flex up to 50% in some cases before breakage.

>>1261493
>>1261547
>>1261547


Sorry for the wait. Lungs feel fine. We're required to wear masks but most peeps just work without.

I'm a gray kind of anon.

Steer away from EnvisionTec. The pricetag for one has come down significantly since their inception but you'll pay out the rear for service, warranty and the resin. Also, their CEO is dumb; "Cheap 3D printers hurt the market. Hurr Durr".

>>1261932
Cam't be as bad as stratasys can it? I got quoted 30k for the objet 24 and almost 3k a year for the service contract, materials were absurd even considering who it was

>>1261909
That property you are referring to is called tear strength (DIN ISO 34-1Bb). It's a test usually only done for flexibles.

>>1261985
Tear strength is different from tensile strength.

Tear strength- is the measure of how much tensile stress the material can withstand in a specific case

Tensile strength- is done for a non defective piece of material.

With the part of flex, it's normally referred to as elongation and flexural modulus.
Elongation- measures the percentage change in length before fracture, failure is a measure of ductility

flexural modulus- modulus is an intensive property that is computed as the ratio of stress to strain in flexural deformation, or the tendency for a material to bend

>>1261125
BEHOLD

Guys I kind of have an irrational love of PET plastic. Is the monoprice printer good enough for the stuff?

>>1262081
>PET plastic
Just give up dude. I know it sounds harsh but no matter how much you print it'll never replace your dog.
It's time to move on, anon. That's what it'd have wanted.

Trying some ICE pla but the 'shelves' on the right side of this test print keep curling upward on the tips. Temperature and print speed seem to have no effect.

Even though it's pla, should I make a shame box from my printer like >>1262008 ?

>>1262098
Take a look at your part cooling fan and adjust the settings for that, or print a new one that forces airflow for both sides

>>1262138
I've read about that but since the fans are already 100%, I figured slower printing would give it more time to cool.

Currently using pic related but probably should make another because there were gaps I had to tape up. The other vents on thingiverse for a wanhao i3plus require a new fan.

>>1262142
So what I would do, is print a new one of those, print it slower and re test it again, atypically it's print a fan shroud install it, and reprint it with the shroud install and install the new one.

You might also look at your settings for top layers and slow it down just a tiny bit

>>1262143
Okay I'll try increasing the top layers and print a new vent.

>>1262008

It looks like you came on the build plate

>>1262403
how the hell else are you supposed to prime a build plate?

>>1262568

i generally use the blood of my enemies, but that only seems to work with PLA

>>1261670
Try making the frame more rigid. There was an awful lot of play in mine. Either stiffen the corners or use diagonal ties to remove any play from the frame. Made a huge difference for me.

>>1262142
>>1262143

Slower prints are likely to give you more curling for PLA since the heater block has more time to radiate heat over any given section. Especially considering that your part cooling fan isn't providing adequate airflow. Or perhaps your current fan shroud isn't really directing air onto the nozzle. You can also try printing some supports, they can help keep the outer edges from curling in too much.

Ron Paul, /3dpg/

What do I need to change to fix this?

With the same settings on a larger print, the stringy things piled up enough that the nozzle rammed into it and caused the motors to slip and eventually rip the print off the bed. I tried increasing retract, Z-lift, and messed with fan speeds, but I guess I messed with too much stuff at once and got a much worse result. So, I figured I'd just ask the experts before trying anything else.

>>1261670
FWIW, I just got a v3, and aside from the strings issue it seems to do quite well on just the default settings using MatterControl (except for the little bumps right at the edge, the front bow of the boat is incredibly smooth and even)

>>1261777
I dunno about v2, but 3 does (and it wasn't that great) and I had problems until I did the manual calibration ( https://www.seemecnc.com/pages/delta-calibration-wizard )

>>1262812

Looks like overextrusion to me. Try dialling down the "Print Flow" parameter in Pronterface during printing and see if your extruder is calibrated right.

>>1262828
i think it would be better to print at lower temperatures; the flow for PLA is around 100%

>>1262832
the flow for PLA is around 100%

What do you mean by that?

>>1262812
I would say the hotend temperature is too high and not enough cooling. That is why edges on front and back side are curling up. But on the other hand the chimney looks pretty good, so idk. Post picture of hotend and part cooling fan.

>>1262085
>>PET plastic
>Just give up dude. I know it sounds harsh but no matter how much you print it'll never replace your dog.
>It's time to move on, anon. That's what it'd have wanted.

This is a good example of a PET plastic. So strong and flexible.
No other plastic can compete!

>>1262954

anon was joking. Or maybe not, it's hard to tell on these message boards...

>>1262927
i didn't read the post right i responded to; of course too high e-steps can cause overextrusion; i just don't change the flow at all normally; for PLA i keep it at 100% in cura 2.7

>>1260693
Can someone please explain how my 340M and 400M roll of PLA are both 1KG when the 400M one looks visibly longer than the 340M one?

Is it safe to use? They both weigh ~1.2KG on my scale.

>>1263117
Either:

1) Density
2) Thickness

>>1263120
Same thickness, so it must be density.

Will that affect print quality, I can't notice a difference between either but I'm worried the lower density PLA might break easier? I don't know.

how large is your gcode folder anon?

>>1263169
bout 3 giggy

>>1261713
Buy a creality cr-10 best chink printer out right now and would be good with the prusa for build volume vs the prusa print quality, use one for small stuff one for big. You can find it on gearbest but printedsolid has them in stock sometimes and they test them before they ship to make sure they work and ship from the U.S.

Is this really the future of humanity?

>>1263222
Fuck that, buy an Anet A8.

>>1263255
Imagine being a stepper motor whose ultimate fate is to repeatedly move a gantry for making giant plastic paper clips very slowly

I'd kill myself

>>1263315
Imagine a paperclip stepping two pieces of paper together, forever.

>>1263255
what printer is this? looks almost like an ultimaker

>>1262828
Will try. I didn't do any kind of calibration on it initially, so it's certainly possible it's out-of-whack. Any suggestion on about by how much? 5%? 20%?

>>1262947
Will try turning up the fans next. One of the things I messed with earlier and got a worse result was turning the fans down... Come to think of it, I don't know why I thought that was a good idea at the time. Pic related is hotend. It has 3 fans in a triangular pattern, plus the one that runs at full speed all the time and cools the tube above the nozzle. I think the default speed is 60%, so I can turn it up quite a bit if necessary, though I think that makes it have trouble keeping the bed up to temperature.

>>1262947
>>1262828
>>1262812
And, just another example of the problem.
The general shape is perfect, but all the fine details like the trusses are mangled, and especially obvious is the fugly spire at the top.

I bought some buildtak for my cr10, should I put it in the glass or on the build plate itself?

>>1263169

About 25MB. I store the STLs, not the gcode

>>1263346
Looks like a duplicator 6, or the monoprice ultimate.

>>1262954
those bottles are polycarbonate.
iirc PET and PETG have worse impact resistance than PLA

>>1260693
Apple diffusers printing now.

>>1263433
My 2 cents for helping your issues, double check and calibrate your esteps, do a temp tower, do a retraction calibration

Temp tower: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2493504

Retraction "cube":
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15087

Can also use the retraction cube to test the layer fan speeds as well

>>1261809
All the crap I've seen for cheap enclosure involves Ikea, and sheets of plastic.

Seemed a lot of dicking about compared to cabinet and done.

First time posting here,

Just bought first kit, a tronxy xy-100
It moves fine, but the hot end doesn't heat up. When I try to manually heat it up the printer shuts off and reboots. This happens when I try to print, any advice?

Friend from /g/ and /k/ here. About to dive into this shit, Anet A8 just came in. Wish me luck.

>>1263752
What's the bed size on that? Also, if you have to assemble it yourself I'm assuming they're pretty cheap.

>>1263717
Does The thermistor provide a temperature reading?

>>1263752
You're going to love and hate it, don't forget to print the upgrades though.

>>1263783
It's roughly 20/20cm iirc

>>1263575
so how many layers do you print on the bottom?
with clear pla?
I like your lights, looking to do something similar but with colorod plas with leds behind.

>>1263571
The water bottles were PET at the water bottling place I worked menu years ago. 5 gallon, 3 gallon and even the small ones were all PET. Hence my infatuation with it.

>>1263752

To use /g/ phrasing:

>he fell for the Anet A8 meme

Hey guys
So im writing my thesis on 3D printing and got myself "3D printing for dummies"
Do you have any recommendations for something similar? Something that kinda talks about the relations between additive and regular, reductive manufacturing. You know, pros and cons
thanks in advance

>>1264011
>writing my thesis on 3D printing
>got myself "3D printing for dummies"

Wew lad

>>1263890
Noice. Might have to pick one up if I can find one at a good price.

>>1263934
My first sign the diffusers were .2 inches thick. This worked for the most part but some light would shine through to where you could see the LED. These diffusers are .26 inches thick and work perfectly. It's enough to block out the individual LEDs from shining through, but still provides plenty of light.

>>1264011
>didn't read the pasta
>3d printing for dummies
Can you tell us where you study?

>>1263934

Also, I had a similar idea for my neon sign at home. I want to remove the "Corona Extra" label from the sign and make something silly like "Florida Man beer: made with bath salts" or something like that. To be honest to get the best light penetration without over penetration you're going to have to experiment with thickness of the diffuser and the distance from the light being diffused.

So with my LEDs I have found that the optimal distance from the lighted flat surface to the diffuser is .7 inches, and the optimal diffuser thickness is .26 inches. Depending on how you do it you may need your diffusers thinner, or even thicker depending on the spacing to the lighted surface. In short: experiment.

>>1264017
>>1264014
Well, the thesis is more like about the market introduction of 3d printing from the view of a specific company.
So its more economics and marketing and shit, but part of it is about the basics of the technology, availible materials and its relations with other, older technolgies

>>1264019
>general info
https://www.3dhubs.com/what-is-3d-printing
https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base
Additive Manufacturing Technologies:3D Printing, Rapid Prototyping, and Direct Digital Manufacturing, Gibson Rosen Stucker
https://www.3dhubs.com/get/metal-kit

>>1264025
thanks
so 3D printing for dummies is a big nono?

>>1264011
From a mechanical engineering standpoint additive manufacturing is a complete game changer when it comes to mechanical design. Before SLS (select laser sintering) metal work had to be "reductive" as you called it. This meant that some features were impossible to make with traditional manufacturing techniques. Want a curved gas path in your non-cast engine block? Fuck you! Redesign it.

Now some major companies like Siemens and Mitsubishi are making turbine blades from SLS and actually using them in high temperature, high pressure applications. This is radically changing the energy market as with thermodynamic efficiency the only way to increase efficiency is to increase temperature, or increase pressure. If you can put cooling paths in your turbine blade you can drop the metal temperature and increase turbine temperature. Of course, this is only one example.

For the most part companies are using 3D printing for rapid and cheap prototyping, and using it for fit checks and the like.

>>1264029
>so 3D printing for dummies is a big nono?
Read it and you will see. It is written by Richard Horne, who definitively knows a lot about 3D printing. You can also find him on youtube and has a blog. Also knows as Richrap. I have read first edition years ago and as far as I remember it focuses on reprap or hobby style machines. I don't know what is in 2nd edition.

I still don't understand what are you trying to do. Are you trying to make a plan how a company should market and sell the printers (hobby or professional) or how a company can profit or improve their products or processes with using 3d printed parts or 3d printers?

3d printing is sort of a buzzword. On one side it is very general term of different technologies and on the other side is used heavily for FDM hobby machines. That is why in books and science papers you never know what it is about if there is "3d printing" in title. So you should get as many books and papers as possible, just to quickly skim through and see if it talks about your topic. Go to the library.
Also search for terms: Additive manufacturing, Rapid prototyping

So there is a cura update to the 3.o version

Anyone know what is new?

Is it newsworthy at all?

>>1264169
https://ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software/release-notes

Biggest things are the z seam settings, infill types and the walls and top layer special settings and gradual support settings. The rest is UI stuff

Newsworthy ehhh maybe, maybe with a new major release we will see some awesome stuff

>>1263890
reading on the lcd is 21.7 and goes up or down a few degrees but it doesn't actually heat up

>>1264384
so the i unplugged the thermal sensor and it will let me change the heat settings and actucally attempt to do a print no problem, but when i plug it back in and try to do another print it shuts off again, does anyone have experince with the Tronxy xy-100? it is really making me frustrated

>>1264402
Measure the thermistor with a multimeter. Place it near the heat source and measure it again. You should see a difference. If not, replace it.

Anyone have a super realistic cad file of a penis and balls?

Thought it would be fun as a gag gift. Thanks

>>1261981

3D print employee Anon again,

Form Labs is wonderful and they've designed a great product. I wish their customer service was a bit more on the ball but oh well.

Think of them as the Apple product of 3D printers; pull out of box, plug in, install software, (There's a bit of balancing you'll need to do) and print. No, you can't tinker with it, but the prints are solid and software is incredibly easy to use. That's fine for me. Their new nylon printer looks sweet.

>>1264424
Wish I could justify a fuse 1, but with printing parts that are destined to be used for molds it's hard to say yeah to a SLS machine. Just thinking of the post processing has me cringing.

Taking it that the form2 performs pretty well as a lights out operation? Last time I installed preform to take a look at how well the auto gen print function works, used one of my smaller pieces that would serve as a master for making a mold, was around 120 hours for the job.

Granted I did set it at 25 microns for the layer height, since it would be a master and trying to reduce post processing time.

Another question, ever find the dot size to be "truly" limiting for some jobs?

Anet A8 user here, my thermistor decided to fall off one day so I ordered a pack of 10 off AliExpress for cheap.

Is there any temporary something something I could use to substitute it in the mean time?

>>1264488
There's no replacement for a thermistor. Enjoy waiting 15-45 days for your replacements. If you need to use your printer soon, just get some off Digikey. They are pretty cheap and fast.

>>1264422
>gag gift

Wew lad

>>1264491
epacket has already picked it up, hopefully it'll be here before the week ends.

>>1264551
That's the fast part. It still needs to sit at the port until a ship departs, then cross the Pacific which takes about 2 weeks. Only after that USPS takes over from whichever Western port it arrived at and delivers it to you in a few days.

>>1264555

Well if the little airplane is correct that cuts the travel time down by 2 weeks

>>1264564
When the tracking says "Left country of origin" you can start counting 2.5 weeks minimum. That's simply the cost of buying cheap from China without "paying" for shipping.

Was there an anon here who had a geeetech i3? I wrote a while back that i had an issue with the Z motors having a really hard time turning at some points, and was told that tightening the Y belt bent the Z rods inwards.
Well I tried fixing that by putting the Y locking rings on the inside w.r.t. the Z rods, but I'm still having that issue. I've noticed that taking off the top cap of the Z rods makes the motors turn much more easily, but the downside is of course that I get massive wobble.
I'm starting to wonder if it's even possible to fix, I feel like the problem is that the tolerances used to cut the acrylic were huge and none of the holes align properly... I guess that's what I get for buying 200$ chink shit

>>1264074
So, the company has an inkjet photopolymer machine. they have been using it only for intracompany prototyping, but since then they started to profit off of it by selling products made with it
they are targeting mostly design and marketing companies, architect offices and the likes
so my main aim is to write about methods to market and advert it, to introduce the basics of 3d printing and the availible materials, and this technologies relations and pros and cons to inject moulding, since that is this company's main product

>>1264816
So is it Objet or the the similar 3dsystems machine?

>>1264816
The most effective way to go about it is to take cues from another company who is doing the same thing. They probably hired a marketing guy to do some work.

When presenting information to your target audience, less is more and only give relavent information. All in all they just want to know at a basic level why they should use your service over others.

>>1260734

Post assembly everything looks good. Just need to program now and finish my assembly guide.

>>1264845

lol no offense but is apple like a religion to you guys? it's just electronics.

>>1264858
The thread on /g/ I posted in isn't up anymore, but:

>I'm not even an Apple fan, I don't own any Apple products except for an old iPod nano my sister-in-law gave me. However, you have to admit they did have amazing logo aesthetics in the 80's.

>>1264862
>they did have amazing logo aesthetics in the 80's.

oh. so you used that to demo your whatever. cool. it's actually a nice logo.

carry on.

>>1264865
I think it's ready for the big leagues.

>>1264901

cool

What are the differences between the Anet A8 and the Tronxy X8? Is one better than the other?

>>1264555
Nah epacket is faster, standard shipping takes roughly 3 weeks, epacket should halve that

how crooked is your bed?

>>1264903
that 'slinger hasn't forgotten the face of his father

>>1264038
It's hilarious how people still think that 3D printing is "just a fad that will go away in a few years". I mean, yeah, if you're one of those people that just thinks you can make cheap plastic crap to put on shelves it'll get old quick, but these people also don't believe metal printing is possible somehow.

>>1264424
>>1264441
I really want a Form 2 but I can't think of any uses for it and think that as soon as I drop 3 grand on it the Form 3 will come out. I just want to print my nerd figurines, damnit.

>>1264865
Source on this video?

>>1264989
It's been around since the 80's, but it has caught on with hobbyists and enthusiasts because of the low price and bar to entry skill wise now. I don't see it losing popularity, but the 3D printer probably won't become a household item like a computer or T.V.

>>1264991
Take a look at the peopoly moai, its a kit, just shy of 1,300.

Smaller laser dot size then the form2, uses the same wavelength resigns but you will have to use b9creator / meshmixer to design supports and set the model to follow the "rule of 45*" for SLA

It uses cura and they do have their own special branch of cura for it

More geared towards hobbyists on a tighter budget and who don't need feature X out of the higher priced stuff

and I really don't suggest the wanhao d7 unless you have oodles of time to tinker with it and really understand the limitations of tiny vat without wiping or tilting

>>1264169
>red alert 2
My man

Just got my old makerfarm i3v running again. It's a fucking ratsnest of wires, but it works.
Went through and updated to the latest version of Marlin, spent an hour fucking with 3 point bed leveling before I realized how warped the bed was and set it to use bilinear.
First print in probably a year or two and without any calibration aside from auto bed leveling the 24mm calibration cube came out +/- 0.25mm
How does that compare to what you guys are running?

Aside from the larger build volume, is the cr10 that much better than the a8?

>tfw webcam not working with OctoPrint

>>1264992
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DyqUw0WYwoc

>>1265236
Aside from the larger build volume, better construction, better electronics, better QC, easier assembly and undoubtedly less problems?

Fleshlight bro where are you? Have you tried anything new yet?

>>1265583
God damn it call him the pervo printer. I think it's a great super villain/hero name.

>>1265583
Apart form >>1258754 ive been busy and haven talked to my friend since.

Shore 10A is too hard for jellyfish, i have no access to softer silicone. Probably thinner features would be more flexible and be more jellyfish like

>>1265491
Thanks.

>>1265590
Have you considered looking into TPE blends? Not the filament type, but the melt and pour/ mix I know a huge number of the onahole's use it but they do mix it with certain oils that they keep very tight lipped about

>>1265131

Currently fiddling with my self-sourced Mendelmax, trying to fix numerous little annoyances one by one that have piled ontop eachother enough to deter me from using the machine as much as i want to.

Just recently replaced the old rattly Wade's extruder with a shiny new Titan Aero. In order to get it running though, i first had to design and print this weird temporary X-carriage that would let me use the Aero with a horizontal-rod arangement without having to redesign the whole damn X-axis. Which i'll have to do later anyway, but now with a hotend fan that doesn't sound like a vacuum cleaner and without a wrongly-printed 3mm extruder on a 1.75mm hotend...

I gotta say, 3D printing is definitely not for someone who's not into fixing broken things.

Guys im at the end of my rope here. Need help:
>dual z axis
>connected parallel to ramps
>both motors work when connected solo
>When connected together only one motor works
>both motors are functional
>stepper driver is functional
>ramps seems functional

Is there are marlin config im overlooking or something? I just dont know how to fix this

>>1265758
Also tried connection both motors in series and still only one motor worked. Is this a power supply issue?

>>1265758
You're trying to run two steppers off the same driver?

>>1265758
Do you have a splitter wire going to the motors or how exactly are you connecting them to the driver plug?

>>1265608
Different anon here, three part mold with the endcap being the jellyfish head and onto the tentacle bunch. Will be held by screws, and the sides held by clamps.

End product will have recycled material heated through old but clean pots. Will be sealing the seams of the negative in tape so that no fluid goes out or into the positive cavity - I'll be pouring it while submerging the entire mold in water as I'm afraid of the PLA deforming. Current material's glass transition/flowable temp isn't known yet, but hopefully I'll get to find out by next week.

Probably not going to explore release agents for the meantime.

>>1265758

Sounds like you've wired them wrong, got a picture?

>>1265878
godspeed

>>1265789
Yea. Like my other 3d printer.
>>1265805
Regular 4 wire connector.
>>1265879
I dont think so. I wired them exactly like I did my other printer. I tested both the cables with the extruder motor and it worked great both directions.

>>1265987
How do you connect 2 of those 4-wire bundles to the same driver?

>>1265987
>That mis-matched wire color

You bastard.

>>1265991
Other end goes to motor and the 4 plugs to ramps.

So guys. It was a torque issue in the sense of some physical misalignment. Fixed the issue a little by moving the motor mount to a better position. The platform descends fine now but the motors dont have enough juice to raise the platform.Youd think the motors would be beefy enough to raise it. (48 N⋅cm)

The platform is 50x50cm 3mm aluminum supported with 5x40cm 2020 aluminum profiles. I know its pretty heavy but pretty easily raised by rotating the motor shaft by finger. Should I just buy stronger steppers?

>>1266011
>splits power between two motors
>wonders why they're not at full strength
Time to stop. You'd be better off with a single motor in a closed loop driving screws by belt

Unrelated, but did something happen in cologne, Germany? A shipment from shapeways is stuck there

>>1266011
Trying to setup both motors with their own individual driver. Anyone happen to know right off what to change in marlin to use z axis on the unused second extruder pins?

>>1266020
>>1266021
I have two smaller printers and they both utilize this parallel connection. I was stupid. Both are now connected to their own drivers and are functioning perfectly.

Sorry.

I want to buy/make my first 3D printer. What should I make?
Anet A8 or TEVO Tarantula?
Or maybe go full DIY (hypercube evolution)?

Or something else? Want to stay in the around 200 dollar price range

Remember, hotsnot is a godsent for weak/inadequate first layers.

>>1266123
I wouldn't go DIY for your first; not without a guru on hand. Too many things that can go wrong.
Anet vs Tevo is sort of a hard call... equal chance ofthe power supply going up in smoke/hotend falling apart mid print. Tarantula's got the metal frame though. I'll warn you you're going to end up putting in more than $200 either way though; just the name of the game.

I swear the more time I put in on the cr10 the more I like it over my makerfarm pegasus

Granted on the cr10 I'm only using it for PLA

>>1266123
I have a TEVO. It was my first printer. It took me 6 hours to assemble while watching some youtube videos.

It's a fine printer for the price.

>>1266123
Got myself an Anet A8, all I can recommend with these cheap printers is to get yourself a cheap reliable power supply as the original ones will keep failing. I'm using an ATX one for my printer.

My 45x45x30cm printer is finally ready!

First print guys. Came out surprisingly good despite having done no tweaking. 0.96 extrusion width with 0.5mm layer hight. Only clear problem I see is slight under extrusion and some curling on the edges due to bad bed adhesion.

25mm calibration cube results:
X: 25.0
Y: 25.1
Z: 24.4 (??)

Just ordered my first printer, an Anet a8 kit. I am so excited to get chinked and put my fist through a wall.

>>1266444
Honestly even non-chink printers will require a ton of troubleshooting. It's the nature of the craft. Just be patient and it'll be good fun

>>1266448
I really am quite excited. There are a lot of projects I have wanted to delve into that a 3d printer would really help make possible.

What's the largest layer height I can get on my Anet A8? My current tip is 0.4mm so that'll be 0.3mm max, but are larger tips compatible? I'd like to be able to print at up to 0.5mm layer height if possible.

Also does anyone know the faster print speed the Anet A8 can reliably print at? I'm guessing it's around 45mm but I don't want to start a large project only to come down to a pile of wasted PLA and time.

>>1260693
Any britfags who've bought from China, any idea on the sort of import fees/duty you would pay for something like a Prusa i3 clone?

>>1266477
Burger here. I saw that Gearbest at least has a UK warehouse option for a lot of their 3d printers. I would see if you could skirt the import fee that way.
Now get out of here before I dump your tea in the harbor.

>>1266477
>>1266481
That could be an option. I'm worried mostly about import/handling adding 20%+ to the price, I'll check out the UK warehouse.

>>1260693
Hi all, I've been building myself a 3d printer and I've hit the wall on what to do and hoping /3dpg/ can give me some pointers. The machine is a corexy design using the MKS Sbase v1.3 smoothieware clone controller. I've everything working correctly except for the hotend temperature. The hotend does not reach the desired temperature, it is always way low. The hotend is a J-head V6 E3D Hotend 1.75mm/0.4mm Nozzle Bowden type. The thermistor is NTC3950. The system power 24v. In the config.txt file I've tried using the temperature_control.hotend.beta setting, the Steinhart Hart temperature_control.hotend.coefficients and the temperature_control.hotend.rt_curve setting. From experimenting with settings using a laser thermometer and ohm meter, the Steinhart Hart curve is very steep. I'm thinking I need to make a circuit give the Steinhart Hart more slope at higher temperatures but have no idea how to do this or what to try next. Any ideas? Am I even on the right track?

>>1266459

why do you want such large layer heights?

I take it you're not printing anything with detail, also you'll have to watch out for overhangs a lot more

would make objects pretty quick tho

>>1266477

UK here, I bought an i3 clone from AliExpress and there were no additional import tariffs.

Anybody have any tricks on how to make the support material generated by slic3r any more, well, supportive?

>>1266581

Like on pic related, that single tower of support is not enough for that entire tail, it fails starting from that point of the print. How do I get it to generate more support along the tail?

>>1266581
Whenever I cant get generated support to work right, I just model in my own where it actually needs to be supported

>>1266590

derped the image

>>1266594
>>1266590
>>1266581

Fiddle with xy and z separation.

Try tilting the model it might help to reduce the amount of support needed (except obviously on the bottom)

Or >>1266591

You could split up the model, then you glue it back together in the physical world. The split up parts might not need supports.

>>1265298
Got camera working, and made first timelapse.

Tried printing a yoda, but the layers around his neck came out really weak, and the print head later ripped his head off.

poor yoda.

>>1266567
Are you sure you have the right thermistor? Also a laser thermometer is a terrible way to measure your hotend temp. An easy empirical way is to manually push the filament through the hotend: if it's pla and it pushes through with little to no resistance, you're at 190C, give or take. Worst case you just manually correct your slicer temperatures.

>>1266570
Large layers are generally used for larger or faster prints. If you need a part to Just Werk sometimes you don't care about how it looks.

>>1266671
>laser thermistor is a bad way to measure temp
How do you justify this? I get that heat loss will occur but I reason it should be within +/- 5C when measured.

>>1266674
Did you miss read post? Im using a laser thermometer not a laser thermistor. The thermometer was just to check the temperature while heating.

>>1266674
+/- 5C is the difference between printing good or bad, and it will be more than +/- 5C:
Unless you have an industrial pyrometer (thats its proper name, laser has nothing to do with the measurement principle) the measurements will be off.
You are actually measuring an average of a region, because the field angle of a common pyrometer is 10-20 degrees (industrial ones can go down to some 1 degrees of field angles). Even if you stick the pyrometer close to the hotend, the aperture is far back in the device and you will be measuring the average of a 30-40mm diameter disk.
The emissivity of the measured material will distort your measurement, a matt black surface would measure waaay hotter than a shiny white surface with the same temperature.

>>1266567
Anyways, that thing is massive, use a rubber feet when you get to it.
You can try to stick the thermistor in melting ice and boiling water to get two very accurate reading.

>>1266688
Thanks for replying. I wasn't expecting a perfect temperature readings with the pyrometer but just a more accurate reading than using my fingers.

I'll try the ice/boiling water idea. Ty.

>pic is from a month or so ago. I put some felt feet on it for now.

I've got an Anet A8 (it's surprisingly good, just working out some stringing issues). Is it worth it to dive into a Smoothieboard now that I have all the cheap motors etc I could desire? Will it help or should I just focus on getting beefier motors and better belts etc?

I don't know why everyone bitches about ABS warping I've had no issues.

Is <100 micron accuracy impossible?

I just got an order from sculpteo using their polyjet white resin and it's basically shit, might as well forget any sort of precision beyond 0.1 to 0.2mm. I thought they used a tiny spot laser for this stuff but it's pretty bad. A waste of 30 bucks. I've tried just about every "high-detail" solution there is from sculpteo and shapeways and they have no precision to speak of.

What do you guys actually print? I want to print some usefull stuff..other than upgrades for a printer, vases or other useless gimmicks

>>1264862
Too bad the rainbow as a whole has been hijacked by fags.

>>1266810
Cases, risers, led fixtures, spacers, mounts, cable clips, stands, seals and pins, and that's just household stuff, except the seal.

>>1266764
Polyjet isn't lasers other then curing, it's dropping tiny little bits of the resin

For actually really truly detailed prints have to get DLP prints, great majority of the dental / jewelry dlp machines can go down to 15 or 25 microns in the XY accuracy and have compensation for the voxel dots

Most SLAs come close but due to the laser spot size they won't be as accurate

SLS is typically worse for accuracy due to laser spot size and shrinkage

>>1266665
Did you try again with support?

>>1266570
Prototypes and for objects where print quality doesn't matter as much.

Also for some objects the larger layer height adds design and appeal.

>>1266923

Support isn't the issue, the model barely has any overhangs. Nozzle seems to have half clogged for a few layers - i think my extruder chewed the filament a bit on those layers.

Doing a cold pull before trying again

>>1266810

I've printed a replacement spring retainer for a 1987 Hitachi boombox (pictured), good luck finding that part for sale... Be aware that the biggest value is in being able to make custom parts and prototypes. If you don't design and model stuff yourself you'll get bored of it quickly.

>>1266819
do you also print commercial (non-household) related stuff?

>>1267012
Currently no. I haven't had the time, material, need or drive to do so. I have a few hobby-related things, but I can't be arsed to sell or publish. I print at home, and work does not require me to bring work home to produce. What >>1266986 is fairly true, most of my time and fun spent on this is on modelling.

If I ever print for commercially related things, I'll do it at work or a fab shop with nicer printers.

Guys. What could be the reason of my ramps x endstop not always working? Couple of times the carriage has just rammed the endstop and kept pushing the motors and Iv had to emergency stop. I have cooling on the ramps board.

Ive been staring at this unused electrical box next to my desk for years now. What cool thing should i print to cover it?

>>1267080
Star of David

>>1267080
You should probably start with a UL listed cover and then put whatever on top of it so its not a fire hazard.

>>1267080
make a fork holder

>>1267251
Oy vey

>>1267080
Glow in the dark wall mounted dildo

>>1267080
CEILING TITTY

>>1267295
I tried printing on similar material but it wouldnt stick. Theres only a coax going straight through the box so theres no fire or shock hazard.

>>1267318
Not fun

>>1267448
I already have my unicorn horns thank you

>>1267470
A ceiling cat it is then. Where do i find an stl tho...

So i recently found out that the trapezoidal leadscrews i'm using are a little bent in one place and are causing Z-wobble when you look at a printed part up close.

Can anyone recommend a place where i can get very high-precision TR10X2 leadscrews from, preferrably stainless steel? I'm looking at Igus currently

>>1266459
Get your ass onto Gearbest/banggood/chinise Amazon and just buy a load of nozzles and drill them out.

>>1267889
>place where i can get very high-precision TR10X2 leadscrews from
Mcmaster-carr, Fastenal, Grainger

>>1267920

Forgot to mention i'm looking for non-burger suppliers (thats why i mentioned Igus)

So I chinked out for an Anet A8. How bad did I screw up?

>>1267957
It's possible the box will arrive on fire.

>>1267889
Misumi stuff is top notch (but pricey).

Are there any settings in slic3r that will print these circles in some more orderly fashion? Changing seam position didnt change anything.

My anet8 stopped recognizing my sdcard after I got a bit brave and tried to use the extended functionality they've put in the machine (there's a mount/unmount button).
Doesn't mount cards anymore after unmounting. Regardless of how many times I restart it. I didn't even have to save to eeprom manually.
Got a new board from gearbest support without lies so they really think lowly of anet owners.
But I'm just wondering where I should report this as an issue to other users (anet won't care). After I confirm it's a bug that's easily repreducable.

>>1268262
Anet forums? Subreddit? I heard that the devs are lretty active on those channels.

>>1267963
You're exaggerating a bit, usually those machines only catch fire after the first start.

Joking aside he should solder heated bed wiring directly to the board.

>>1261583
Fucking REEEEEEEEE

>>1268296
Some fella did a video on how to solve this.
https://youtu.be/WlmCc-vRNr0

>>1268447
Fuck off with this cunt.

>>1268262
Works on my machine, have you tried other micro SD cards ?

What exactly did you do to fuck it up ?

Have you tried the reset button on the board ?

>>1268447
>>1268457
It's hard to tell if someone is a good or bad person through the internet

But yeah, Sanladerer is a cunt

I like to print Pokemon in 1/18th scale with my printer - the files are readily available, most are easy to print, most Pokemon figures are out of scale, and I just like Pokemon.

I want to print out the Beldum family but I'm worried about Metang, Metagross, and Mega Metagross' spindly little arms.

What is a good way to make these parts? I feel like printing them vertically by themselves isn't going to work since the print head creates enough friction to knock the print over very quickly. Printing them horizontally won't result in a good print. I could buy a wooden dowel locally but wood might not be as strong as I'd like. I could find a metal rod but I'd have to find some that work with my $0 budget.

Ideas?

>>1268777
>>1268457
I haven't watched him in probably a year, but he was always the most informative easy going 3d printer guy on YouTube, why don't you like him?

whats a good printer for the fosscad packs, under 999$

>>1268779
1/8" aluminum rod is cheap. Increase your budget to $5.

Alternatively, print another set of arms oriented flat with thicker perimeters and see if that's strong enough for you. They don't need to be that strong anyways unless you're face fucking them.

>>1268780
Not the person you're quoting but in his scriptless videos, he comes off like a dick with a know-it-all attitude. He frequently dismisses stuff as crap (rightfully so), but that's all he does instead of working around the problems to create a usable thing.

I like his tutorials and filament experiments though.

>>1268786
He's also ragequit one or two Livestreams

>>1268780
>>1268786
Agreed if you spend some time on his twitter / watch his livestreams he goes from seeming like a nice guy, to an utter asshole with a god complex.

If you mention CoreXY watch him flip his fucking shit and go into a savage foaming at the mouth autism fueled rage for a good 20 minutes.

God why is there no good 3D printing people on youtube that pushes out content often?

Joel- Sellout and a faggot
Tom- Giant cunt
Angus- Sellout
RClife- Faggot
Makeanything- Faggot
Chuck- Really needs to get a lot of experience under his belt
Fattyfattyboomboom (jerry)- 90 ton sellout
Jat.mn - a nobody who doesn't understand gcode
Sexycyborg- a massive cunt, just shy of calling for the public murders of anyone with a hangdoodle instead of a clam

>>1268799
He bitches continuously about how livestreams are stressful, time consuming, rage inducing, and overall unpleasant, yet he still continues to do them.

>>1268802
Angus (Maker's Muse) is my favorite, for what it's worth.

>>1268810
Yeah once in a blue moon they put out some good stuff, but the overall tone.

But just my opinion on them

On my Anet A8, I want to install open source firmware. Now I think the only 2 options are Marlin and Skynet3D, with Skynet being a fork of Marlin. But Skynet3D seems to be a clusterfuck, with all kinds of links to facebook groups and google drive download links. I just want to download it from Github or something, not some shady pajeet style software releases.

So what do you recommend? What is the difference between these two firmwares anyway?

>>1268836

Marlin.

I've never heard of Skyney3d and if it's not on github then thats a big fat warning sign right there

>>1268839
Skynet3d was a marlin fork that added anet support to marlin before marlin got to it. It not being a PR for marlin is probably just a code quality issue. Now that there's support I don't see why you wouldn't go with marlin. Unless it's a limited implementation in some way.
I wouldn't deem Skynet3d as suspect just made by a less experienced developer.
A more experienced one would probably just fork it right on github. And if they have disagreements with github they'd go to gitlab or somewhere else. Not Google drive links. That's for people who haven't used version control systems.

>>1268786
>filament experiments
More like filament dicking around that does not have any useful values for the watchers.
None of the measurements he does is comparable. Fist off, doing anything with infilled test samples is meaningless. Doing bending bending tests with pulling on the sample by hand, what the fuck? He doesn even know how to do correct impact testing. And when the commenters say the sample has to be reversed he says "it doesnt matter". Of course it fucking doesnt matter since you are doing infilled sample that does not represent the materials strength but more the structure of the sample

Okay the overhang and stringing test samples are informative. But sprinkling hot water on a benchy and squishing it is just retarded.

I stopped watching him since he started to do this bullshit.

>>1268780
The above, and what >>1268802 and >>1268786 said.

>>1268807
Complaining about that water is wet. If you do videos, live streams theres bound to be faggots, people have to learn to deal with that.

>>1268836
Does repetier work? I switched From Marlin to repetier in my ramps 1.4. its easier to setup and More compact

>>1268836
skynet3d has been merged into marlin months ago

Can I use a direct feed hotend heatbreak with a bowden? I dont have any left with the teflon tube mount in them.

In short: Bowden with no teflon tube?

>>1268985
Nvm. Found a clone with the tube mount. Raises another question. This is some e3d clone and I dont have the real thing. This is supposed to be an all metal hotend but there
s this short ptfe tube at the end of the thermal barrier. Are the genuine all metal hotends built the same way?

>>1266887
So my only choice is to buy a form 2? Because DLP resins are too brittle for my purposes and SLA is the only one that comes close to it? And I can't say I trust vendors with quality control anymore...

>>1268991
It ends right where the heatbreak part gets thin so no ptfe goes into the heater block or touches the nozzle.

While I don't have e3d clones, I have heard many places that the clones with the ptfe tubes are better then the ones without. Just have to be careful about temps. Treat it like the e3d lite6 don't go above 245C with it

>>1269000
Print/get the DLP piece, use the printed piece for a mold and cold cast it maybe?

If you don't want to go the mold and casting method then yeah probably a form 2 or a peopoly moai

>>1269005
Most casting resins are too weak or have poor plastic qualities

>>1269008
Take a look at the TASK series from smooth-on for casting it's pricey shit, but harder then my dick when daydreaming about sansa and aria lezing out

>>1269017
I've looked at smooth-on's stuff. It's mostly for artists. The only resins that have similar properties to rigid thermoplastics are some industrial resins from BJB and PTM&W, I guess there's also that one TASK ABS simulant that's sort of okay.

Problem is they require heated pressure casting, which I don't have a safe spot for.

>>1269020
Welp yeah take a look at the form 2 and their tough resin, it's more or less their answer to ABS

>>1268991
>This is supposed to be an all metal hotend
Yeah they say so sometimes but it is not.

<---here you see some dfferent hotend versions (from left to right)
- 3mm filament with PTFE
- 1.75mm filament with PTFE
- 1.75mm filament all metal
- 3mm all metal
- for bowden, where the bowden ptfe tube goes right though into the hotend

Maybe I need to lurk more, but whenever I scan this general the main take away is IT'S NOT READY FOR PRIME TIME YET. WAIT FIVE MORE YEARS AND CHECK BACK.

The fact that your OP image has two depressing images of that tugboat is just painful. When your OP image has gears and housings and SHIT THAT I WANT then I'll start pricing gear.

>>1269047
thank you for your valuable contribution to the thread

>>1269047
You sound like a tool.

I'm going to go print gears and housings and SHIT THAT I WANT now.

Hi everyone,
I have quality issues with my printer and I can't really find the source. Does anyone of you have an idea?
One issue is, that I changed a lot of things at once, I tried to change parts back, but I just can't find the issue.

firmware: Skynet3D
slicer: simplify3D
printer: Anet A8 with a bunch of customazations
customazation:
- anti z-wobble coupling
- motor damper
- 300x200 bed
- 24V for the headbed from 2 ATX power supplies
- 80mm instead of 60mm rods for y-axis and used the 60mm rods for the belt tensioner
- the printer is screwed down onto a concret plate
- bowden system with the extruder attached to a shelf
- E3D V6 clone with PTFE and all metal (tried both) hotend
- 2 mosfets so the current to heat the bed/hotend doesn't fry the board
- ...

My issue:
Like you can see in the picture, I have periodic underextrusion.
First I thought it might be z-wobble, but after looking at mutliple prints, I'm pretty sure that the head movement is fine, but there is just to little plastic coming out.
The pattern is very consistent, but sometimes it shifts and sometimes it doubles in frequence.

What I have tried so far:
- I printed without a headed bed (I thought that there might be a voltage spike everytime the heater draws current)
- I used 2 different power supplies for the hotend heating and the steppers (main board)
- I tried it with a different extrusion motor
- I tried out different anti-z-wobble methods (I'm very sure it has nothing to do with that)
- I printed a pyramid to see if the paddern frequency changes. It seems as the gap between under extrusion gets smaller but then at the top much bigger.
- I printed an object in vase-mode, to make sure it has nothing to do with retraction.

What kind of helped (at least a little):
- I used a new nozzle and put thermal paste between hotend and cooler
- I put a little more tension on the extruder spring, so the filamet gets gripped a little tighter

>>1269071
Oh and with abs it is a little better, but you still see that there is an issue.

>>1269047
If you had ever used a 3D printer you'd know that those tugboats are not the depressing version. Printers also cost like $200, I don't think it's something to agonize over unless you're in a third world country.

>>1269071
When it's that consistent I'd attribute it to the Z axis having a mechanical fault. If your objects are squished in Z, your steppers might be skipping steps, otherwise there could be something on the thread that makes Z move more periodically. Check if the distance between two lines is about the same as the pitch of your Z rods.
Also keep in mind that it could be an angular error, i.e. some part of the Z mounting periodically rotates the whole X axis, resulting in a nozzle lift.
Just in case, go over your firmware settings, recalculate the step distance and whatnot, redo extruder calibration.

>>1269080
>I'd attribute it to the Z axis having a mechanical fault.
- I changed the Z setup, by hanging the carriage with zip ties on the threaded rod, so movement from the rod doesn't get transfered onto the carriage.

>check if the distance between two lines is about the same as the pitch of your Z rods.
The frequence changes with the size of the object I print and sometimes it doubles out of some reason. As I always use the same rods I don't think it is this.
- Oh and when you look at that object in the pic, you see where it get's really narrow? It is moving like it should, but there is almost no filament coming out of the nozzle. (it is just kind of ouzing out)

> redo extruder calibration
Yeah have done this and it is spot on.

>>1269086
Yeah that sounds like something with the extruder then. Check for any signs of missed steps on that, clanking sound, and observe if the wheels are actually turning, best to mark them with a marker. Might be worth swapping the extruder driver as well as checking the amp setting. If the filament is oozing the extruder temp should be fine, you'd see larger fluctuations in software either way.

>>1269086
>The frequence changes with the size of the object I print and sometimes it doubles out of some reason.
seems to be based off time rather than distance. Is your printer enclosed? because it could be something as simple as your air conditioner kicking on every so often, and making the current layer shrink and warp differently. could still be some kinda bad wiring thing from a different source, but im not /ohm/ so I dunno.

>>1269100
>best to mark them with a marker
Yeah I've done that and at that narrow part it was barely moving and the stepper wasn't moving propperly I think (unsure)

>swapping the extruder driver
They are on the board, so I can't swap single drivers. :(
>checking the amp setting
What do you mean with this?
This reminds me also I looked here
http://reprap.org/wiki/RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Trouble_Shooting_Guide
and it says under
>Inconsistend Extrusion
>1. Overvoltaged motor
Do you have an idea what they mean?

I just saw that my bowden coupling is broken and the PTFE tube was kind of loose. I fixed that with some tape and do a test print. I don't think that is the issue, but if something is broken it is always a chance that THAT IS IT.

>>1269086
>It is moving like it should, but there is almost no filament coming out of the nozzle
looks and sounds like a clog. If you havnt already, you should disassemble the hot end, and give it a good cleaning

>>1269106
Oh, you should get a RAMPS board and replace the whole control shit with that and DRV8825s. Should be around $15 to swap all in all.
>amp settings
I use DRV8825s and on those you have to turn a screw to set how many amps the motor gets. If you give it too few amps, it will skip steps. If you give it too many amps, it will heat way up and melt everything around it, including the filament. Ideally the stepper should be hot, but not burning hot to touch (although if you don't have skipped steps, you don't have to force it to run hot).
>overvoltage
It kind of sounds like they mean over-amp, but in any case, 24V definitely should be fine for any regular stepper motor. I guess you could try running the board on 12V if you're completely out of ideas.

>>1269107
>disassemble the hot end, and give it a good cleaning
I did and it was a little better (I think), so I did it a second time and then I switched it with a new one.

>>1269071
How are you feeding your filament? It could be a tangle or inability to freely unspool at some point.

To eliminate the Z axis, I suggest print a single layer of square with a thick layer height. You will see period under extrusion there as well if it's an extruder issue.

>>1269113
cont, I checked the board, for you the amps are set by R23 SMD resistor, you'd have to swap that for a pot (like the one to the left on the Z motor driver) or an appropriate resistor to change the amps the motor gets. I think you'd want a slightly smaller resistor for more amps, you'd have to figure it out. Messing with it without knowing what you're doing may burn out the driver though.

>>1269041
>>1269002
Thanks for the input. I want to print nylon with this thing. Will it be safe?

>>1269078
He's obviously never used a 3D printer before else he wouldn't be SHITPOSTING. Fortunately he has run into the CAD roadblock because only he knows what he wants but is too stupid to learn CAD.

>>1269118
>nylon ...Will it be safe
- Nylon has to be printed at 240-260°C.
- PTFE is safe till 245°C when you ask some and till 260°C if you ask others ( http://reprap.org/wiki/PTFE ). After that it should creat toxic fumes.

I would take a all metal

>>1269135
Damnit. Guess I¨ll wait. Good thing I only need the heatbreak

Is cleaning filament a meme? I plan on alternating between PLA, woodfil PLA, and ABS on a 0.4mm nozzle. That shit is relatively pricey for what it is,

What do you guys to make your 3D objects? I use 3Ds max, pretty comfy.

>>1269151
Creo 3.0, educational version

>>1269115
>How are you feeding your filament?
Spool isn't tangled (stood next to it) and on rollers.

>single layer of square with a thick layer height
Yeah thought about something like that, but I was sure it's not that. I think I will try this anyhow just to be absolute sure.

>>1269113
>24V definitely should be fine for any regular stepper motor. I guess you could try running the board on 12V if you're completely out of ideas.
My board (and stepper) is running on 12V. I use the 24V only for the heatbed. (over an extra mosfet board)
>If you give it too few amps, it will skip steps
Yeah this is what I thought might happen. That something causes the power to oscilate, so the stepper motor has enough voltage/amps and then the power drops and it misses steps. But could neither varafy that nore find a source.

I had a clogged nozzle/head break a few times. Could that have fried my stepper driver maybe?

>>1269140
switching between the same type of material should be fine, just keep feeding it through until it looks like it extruded through. but you are definitely want to clean it out good if you switch materials entirely. personally, I would just swap out nozzles and keep them maintained.

/3dpg/, In Australian Aldi stores on the 1st of november, there'll be a cocoon 3D printer avaliable.
Here's a link. https://www.aldi.com.au/en/special-buys/special-buys-wed-1-november/wednesday-detail-wk44/ps/p/cocoon-3d-printer/

Would you recommend this to a complete newfag to 3D printing?

>>1269086
It's quite possible it is a feed issue. What does your filament delivery system look like?

How to fix? 0.8 nozzle

>>1269160
I personally would never buy a printer without heated bed.
I don't know Australian prices, but I think you can get wanhaou i3 v2.1 or i3 plus for a $100 more. with bigger and heated bed.
You can probably get thing from china for the same price, such as anyubic i3 mega or creality cr10 mini,.....

>>1269176
Why 0.8?

Up retraction slightly
Reduce print temp 5degrees

>>1269178
If that's a rebranded malyan printer (maker select mini) it has a heated bed. IMO the wanhao i3's have had their day and really aren't as good for the price compared to some newer cheap printers (namely the CR10). Don't they still ship with boards that have no MOSFET to switch the power to the bed?

>>1269156
Might have, or just messed something up so that it periodically overheats and then supplies too few amps until it cools. You should make the switch to RAMPS, that enables you to very quickly switch drivers and mess with the settings. DRV8825s are very cheap too, no big issue if you happen to fry one (not that it happens often).

>>1269169
>It's quite possible it is a feed issue. What does your filament delivery system look like?
Filament spools are on rollers, so no issue there.

But I did an other test print.

>>1269334
My mainboard doesn't has any active cooling (only heat sinks), so adding some colling should change the paddern I guess?

I printed a sheet 260x160 and 0.6mm thick with a 0.3mm layer height.

First layer speed is 50%.
(You can ignore the thing in the middle, that is hairspray leftover from earlier prints.)

This is the first layer
>>1269460
<--- and this the second one.

When you look in the middle compared to the corner you see that it repeats itself after a constant amount of plastic. But when you compare the first and the second picture, you can see that at double the speed, the errors are half as often. So it isn't after the same amount of extruded plastic (turning of a fialment spool or turning of the extruder), but after a constant time (I would guess).

So something overheating, which causes underamping the stepper could be the reason.

>>1269460
>>1269463
PID?

>>1269160
looks like a Monoprice Select Mini knockoff
or it came from the same factory

>>1269622
I auto calibrated the PID (for the heaterblock) and when I look at the heatblock temp in octoprint it is flat as can be. (+-0.2°C and rarely a spike of +-0.6°C)

>>1269334
Cooling didn't help at all. I will have a look at my power supplies and if they are OK I guess I will get a ramps

How do I disable the annoying-ass animations in Simplify3D? Not the Gcode animation, but the parts bouncing into the virtual environment when you import them or do other things to them like "Drop to Table"

ABS plastic vs PETG; which ends up being less of a pain in the ass to print with? Planning on printing a new cairrage for my printer's hotend.

>>1270020
Obviously PETG, ABS's advantage is that it withstands more heat but it's going to warp unless you have an enclosure.

>>1270024
I could make a temp enclosure out of foamcore or something... I suppose there's still the odor issue with ABS though. An E3D even get hot enough where you'd have to worry about the extra bit of heat resistance?

I bought this for heatbed insulation.
What's the best way to attach it? I was just thinking duct tape but I'm not convinced now.

>>1270043

Kapton tape

>>1261344

How much would you charge to make someone one of these?

>>1270072

Probably too much money. The materials needed aren't that expensive, it's just the time to make one that I don't have. I'm making a guide now that I'm going to put on instructibles on how to make these.

>>1270089

Yeah I been keeping an eye on it. I am not super handy with electronics, when you publish the full thing is it gonna be step by step? I'm not a rube but I'm not savvy with electronics.

I haven't used my printer in about a year now and I moved. I tried setting it up last night and spent a couple of hours on it. I have everything dialed in as far as I can tell

I was using buildtak beds but had a ton of trouble removing prints and broke one of my glass pieces doing it. I need something better. I tried using PEI but both beds I set up with it aren't level. One sags in the middle and the other is just not the best. If I could find a better PEI bed I'd be happy. My printer is 8"


I was able to print and get about 4 or 5 glassy smooth layers before the printer seems to be too far and I see beading. I double checked the Z axis and it is perfect and checked my print settings. Is this caused by my plastic being old? I can't see anything obviously bad with it. What could cause this issue?

I currently have a FF Creator Pro and some spare cash which I want to spend to add polycarbonate printing to my material options. Should I put a Flexion HT dual on the FlashForge or buy an i3 clone and fit it with an E3D kit?

>>1270094
I glue stick everything, glass and pei, but maybe that's just me.

>>1270094
Which plastic? I find PLA goes pretty crappy after 9 months in the open air.

Personally, I swear by DIMAFIX on heated glass.

I have a raspberry lying around. Can you guys think of anything useful to use it for that´s related to 3d printing?

>>1270142
- Octoprint (if you haven't done so already)
- Print a case for it

>>1270119
Ok I flipped my bed and glue sticked it

>>1270123
Sorry forgot to mention. It is ABS. I grabbed a new sealed roll and put it on and it seems to be behaving the same way. Starts beading on the third layer even. The print will go bad as it gets taller. I suppose this is bad extrusion speed or layer height.

>>1270148
I'd run some cleaning filament through it at 230C then extrude a good few metres of ABS.

>>1270148
Could be the hobbed bolt has plastic chips in it or maybe the tension isn't high enough. Definitely looks like underextrusion for whatever reason.

Gfkrkr

>>1270146
I only have my mobile phone internet which I share to my pc and it already has a case

>>1270092
It should be easy enough to follow to get you 95%+ of the way there. That's the goal anyway. You should know basic electrical connections and how to solder.

>>1270161
>>1270159
Hobbled bolt was fine. I double checked the feed rate and it was spot on. I ran a bunch of filament through while I did off your suggestion.

I had my filament diameter off in my print settings... Now I just think I have it leveled a little low but that should be it. Thanks for the help.

Now off to print the last part of my roommate's halloween costume a little late.

>>1270094
I have a Flux Delta that just would not adhere to its non-heated build plate. It gets some unwanted airflow from not being in an enclosure as well. I believe it also experiences performance anxiety from being set up next to a Form 2.

Finally I got plain masking tape and a regular gluestick on top to hold my prints down. I was printing a spire with a small base and high center of gravity but it printed fine with tape and glue.

>tfw my enclosure design is the third picture in the OP image
>tfw a buddy with a CNC router actually let me mill my panels out of 2mm polystyrene plastic
>tfw it looks fuck ugly but it works

>>1269236
Probably because 0.8 prints really fast

>>1262008
You'll harm the electronics by doing that, see if you can make something like pic related. It will be cheap and very effective. I always cringe when I see people enclosing their PSU/control boards in a heated chamber. The bottom should be quite cool because of convetion, but still.

>>1263255
That's an incredibly beautiful machine.

>>1261125
I had a mix of cardboard/plastic enclosure, then I made an all-PS one.

What printer is it? It reeks of either the ultimaker original or an ulticampy

>>1270230
There's not really any way to isolate the main board of that printer since it's under the blue panel directly below the build plate. The power supply is also down there and it has a fan, so at least there's a bit of circulating air even if it's hot.

I'd have to entirely relocate the main board and PSU outside of the frame. I could put another fan under the blue plate but it doesn't seem to be much of a problem.

>>1270242
Then make a duct to feed fresh air into the controller compartment

>>1269460
>>1269463
>>1269622
>>1269086
>>1269071
>>1269080
>>1269115
Thanks everyone, I find the error.
I had 4 ATX PSUs which I rewired to get 5 and 12V and 2 of them I rewired to get 24V for my head bed.

Now everytime the headbed got heated (with 24V) I had a powerdrop in the 12V (from 12.2 to 11.8) and that was enough to mess up the PID of the heaterblock, so that I always got a little clog and therefore underextrusion when the heatbed started to heat and I got a little overextrusion when the bed was turned of.

I think I got my printer calibrated well enough

would this be a good printer to begin with?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2017-Hot-sale-Easy-Assemble-Reprap-prusa-i3-3D-printer-Kit-DIY-Anet-A6-Auto-Leveling/32802040379.html?

>>1270180

If your using WiFi hotspot on your phone, just connect the Pi to that too and install Octoprint. I find it pretty useful to keep tabs on my prints from the comfort of my living room/toilet

>>1266567
That's a mother fucking beast, kek.

Did you make it with spares from a CNC build? Those are really thick rods.

Cetus 3D, Y/N? I'm tempted to use it for tall stuff.

>>1270442
Default option has no heated bed, proprietary and locked slicer, z axis still comes crashing down after power off, the extended is almost the cost of a CR10 might as well go big

>>1270316
gj

what printer?

>>1270536
It's a makerfarm 8" pegasus.

I am still getting a bit of layer separation but I've always gotten that with this printer. I suppose it needs an enclosure and also the z axis screws aren't exactly straight but that doesn't begin until further up the axis. I dunno. It isn't a bad printer but the frame vibrates a good bit so you need to run it a bit slow. I'd have gotten something with a more enclosed frame if I had to make the decision again.

>>1270539
I have that printer, double check the encertic nuts, retighten all the machine head screws and it helps a lot, I run mine at 75mm/s with no issues. And yeah the m5 threaded rod is junk, I got some acme leadscrews and printed up some mounts for it, helped it so much.

>>1270430
I'd just finished a cnc when I started this project. I wanted the machine to be sturdy for best quality prints. It's been a process.

>>1270530
> heated bed,
It's a very modest amount to add one on.
>proprietary and locked slicer
The slicer is shit but I already have a S3D license.
> z axis still comes crashing down after power off
That was fixed in V2.

The CR10 is double the price in my market and the mini lacks a heated bed.

>>1270530
>proprietary and locked slicer

Wait, what? It doesnt accept normal flavours of gcode?

>PennGilletteHumourousDustbin.tiff

>>1270602
Are you sure about the mini with no heated bed, just did a quick google search every cr10 mini I saw had a heated bed.

To get the best price by from the chinks directly, amazon and ebay resellers pretty much double the price.

But I mean whatever sounds like you already ordered the Cetus and looking for validation.

>>1270624
You take whatever gcode you gen in s3d, cura or slic3r and pass it through their app to create a new gcode that the machine will accept. At least that was how it was when it launched

>>1270629

Then the post I linked about "locked slicer" was bullshit? Are all the other claims bullshit?

>>1270631
So you don't understand that it takes whatever gcode and forces it to go through their app only to alter it to run on their machine, and they don't say what they are changing and altering to make it run properly on your machine. Is in affect properitary

>>1270634

No I don't understand that having not researched that paticular printer/brand.

But if I have to send my gcode through a mysterious "black box" (likely windows only), and not just upload any *.gcode file by usb/sd, then my other point also stands.

TRASH.


Thats just as bad as AstroPrint's "it's just like octoprint, but if your printer and PC aren't connected to our cloud you can fuck yourself"

>>1270640
Yeah it's a shame too, on paper its a nice looking machine before you get to the use their app stuff and at least v1 with the crashing hotend and x carriage.

To me the having to use their app, allowing a crashing x axis to happen in the first place, and I'm sorry but 36 bucks to add a heated bed. Deal breaker.

>>1270628
I'll double check.

>But I mean whatever sounds like you already ordered the Cetus and looking for validation.

I've just researched it a lot because I was suspicious of how well the specs seemed to meet my needs for the price. I'll check out the mini again. Thank you for the correction. It looks like the heated bed on the mini is an extra. I'll need to research more to see if it's integrated or one of those janky extras that have to me manually toggled (something I'm not happy with).

>>1270653
It should be the integrated pcb style.
Tinymachines says theres is a heated bed but they are sold out, saw one of gearbest with a heated bed and one without at the same price.

The mini is fairly new, so maybe in about a month the market will be flooded with them so it will be easy to pick from 200 different vendors.

>>1270683
Thank you, I can wait for that to make a decision. The biggest problem with using S3D with the Cetus is that bed warp adaptation is done in the slicer so I'd either be using rafts or banking on getting a flat bed.

I made a custom build chamber for my 3d printer

>>1270701
You need patent protection on that bad boy pronto.

>>1270701
!

>>1270773
You don't even know the features I have planned for this thing. I've already installed a viewing port on it.

>>1270790
Nice. Seriously though, have you considered vinyl drop sheet? I use it for an enclosure and it's great, but you do need a frame of some kind.

>>1270794
I'm probably going to build a rolling cart/cabinet for it. I'll oversize it a little bit so I can stick whatever printer in the future. I just had the box handy at the moment and wanted to see if it would help with the ABS. I double checked and tightened up the eccentric nut and the gantry off of >>1270553
suggestion and threw the box over it. I'm printing another battery case to see how it goes.

I really haven't been messing with this printer much for a year now. I will probably build an enclosure and a rolling cabinet for it or something if I keep at it. Vinyl sheeting would work well for the top part. Maybe I could go with something more rigid and make it look fancy.

>>1269160
>>1269178
I bought this printer a few days ago. I have been using double sided tape to make sure the filament does not get dragged around the fucking place and it seems to be working rather well. If you decide to do this make sure it's a very thin tape and does not leave behind any residue.
If anyone buys this make sure you are ready for a bit of tinkering.

Aside from custom parts and adapters, what do make with your 3D printer for?
Pic related: I'm currently printing a bottle opener.

Literally plastic statues

>>1271021

Between custom designing my own i3/A8 clone, I've been printing cable tidying equipment, a car phone holder, child-safety latches for my kitchen cupboards, and next up will be a chastity cage

>>1271021
Various bits & bobs for wargaming terrain, mostly.

>>1271021
Scratch-built overpowered Nerf guns.

You know, for adults.

Alright Lads
What the niggering fuck is going on here?
Cube printed fine but this shit is all over the place.

Printer is anet E10

>>1271193
Potatocam tells me nothing. Overextrusion? WTF am I looking at?

>>1271201
>>1271201
Im sorry, it's under extrusion mid print continuing with "fairly ok" quality till the end.
Might this be a feeding problem?

>>1271205
Yeah, that's what my gut says; might be a lot of things along that line. The fact that it stops & starts feels like a clue; maybe your plastic is badly wound? Maybe your spool holder is snagging the feed rate up?

>>1271142
that's damn good

>tapped hole gradually loosening
>its screw is undamaged
>no larger screws at hand, tapping, welding and glue not an option
>spend half an hour finding screws that might fix it
>have some lunch while I'm at it
>idea.stl
>spend two minutes to model and print a thin spacer to jam between screw and hole
>it fucking works, seems to hold up

I should be annoyed at myself for not thinking of it sooner but the results are making me fairly happy. PLA seems to do rather well at being shredded and squished through tight spaces. Should be replacing the fucking fixture soon enough but this'll do for a day or two.

>>1271273
IIRC those bits were printed at 0.1; I wouldn't want to print a mini like that, but it's great for terrain. The paint does a good job of hiding the sins.

Kodak is getting in the 3d printing game

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uNq99t8jJZw

looks like e3d hot ends, coreXY, dual extrusion and at least according to their website, they believe in and support open source

>>1271312

Reminds me of a 3d printer someone built in his dorm room

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iK-kbPhdtbo

>>1271604
Well to be fair, he does sell kits of his most recent version of the eclips3D.

and not going to lie been pretty tempted at times to order one of his kits, only thing that stopped me was they aren't complete kits still have to spend an extra 700 or so for the stuff like the rods, bolts and electronics. He just does the custom cnced bits and the support

Porno

>>1272111
>Porno
>trips demand porno
yes pls

Any good filament recommendation from aliexpress/gearbest/hobbyking or eBay?
Not from America or Europe so my shop choice kinda limited? Thanks

>>1272138
eSun and I've heard that the hobbyking branded stuff is alright