/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Are there any cheaper formlabs alternatives that can use their resins? All the DLP resins seem to suck ass or simply don't publish their material data sheets

Got this sexy Zcorp Z402 at an auction. The binder lines are all fucked, so it's pretty screwed as a true Binder Jetting machine, but what a sexy machine.

>>1236619

Looks like a hotdog or chicken vending machine

>>1236619
Soooo... It doesnt work?

Stupid question: any untoward ramifications to storing DLP resins in virgin metal paint cans instead of HDPE bottles?

>>1236616
Clearly you need to print up a cartridge-draining tool.

>>1236619
Not sure what that means
What sort of work do you have to put into it to get it fully functional again?

Or are you implying that you are going to gut it and fix it with a conversion of sorts?

A friend of mine asked me to print this unicorn horn.

>>1236673
Because of how extensive some of the damage is, as well as the fact that Zcorp is gone and the motherboard runs off an old 4GB hard drive, and even if I did get it running again it would just make sand castles, I can pretty confidently say it will never be repaired.

That being said, most of the mechanical infrastructure is still running, including the roller, spreader, ventilation system, feed and build risers.

If I can replace the inkjet head with a laser, and replace the two D.C. Servos with steppers, I'm hoping I can convince it to be an SLS machine. It won't do metal, but with decent speeds and maybe a chamber heater, it might do nylon.

But that being said, it's really interesting. This type of machine was the first thing to be called a "3D printer", and back in the early 2000s, this was the shit.

>>1236693
Even with a "rubber coating" on these, they arent comfortable to use. Even more normal looking horns.

Anyone built a top down dlp. I would like to ask a few questions and Im not much for posting of forums outside of 4chan.

>>1236737

I remember when these things were the shit in the early 2000s, and they cost a small fortune too. It's so strange how you can get better and more functional prints with a cheap aliexpress FDM machine now.

Are powder+binder printers still a thing? Seems like most professional printers nowadays are either SLS or some type of Polyjet tech. The main draw of those zCorp machines was that you could do full-color printing, but practice has shown that users value multi-material capability over color...

>>1236929
They are rare, but their one major use is for Foundries. You use a high temp powder, bind together the sand into the negative of the part you want, then fill it with molten metal. It's basically investment casting without any investment.

I've also seen some eperiements with using binder jetting and metals, then sintering the metals together in a furnace.

Is this a good idea. Reading post about enclosure heating up too much.

>>1236693
anon, I'm not too sure that that is a horn...

>>1236864
jea. I'm in the process of converting it to a bottom up though.
>>1236946
I've also seen some eperiements with using binder jetting and metals, then sintering the metals together in a furnace.
There is also a thing called Indirect metal laser sintering.
>laser sinter plastic with metal grains in it
>only sinters the plastic together
>drive out the plastic
>infuse with bronze iirc
>sinter the metal
There is shrinkage involved so its not verry easy to get the parts right.

>>1236929
>Are powder+binder printers still a thing?
Most of the binder-jet industry is in metal. ExOne is kind of monopolizing that category right now. Their staple is stainless steel powder binder-jet prints which are then infused with bronze through capillary action inside of a furnace or autoclave.

You can also take their green-state parts are use a sintering furnace to bake off the binder and produce a pure alloy part, but it requires designing around the resulting deformation that occurs, and it doesn't always work right.

I work for a company that is trying to research how to use Microwave sintering to consolidate these printed green-state parts into a fully-dense solid.

The other area we're trying to refine for ExOne is in retrofitting their equipment to use non-spherical (significantly cheaper) powders in their equipment. But they're a huge pain in the ass to work with directly so we're pursuing alternative funding.
>>1236946
Part of what is making this arena so useful is that the software that the binder-jet equipment in this category comes with will help you anticipate deformation that results from the curing process of these one-off printed sand molds. Aerospace and Automotive industries are gobbling those printers up in a hurry, as is General Electric which has a multi-billion-dollar investment in developing more efficient natural gas turbine powerplants.

>>1237065

Have you looked into Solidscape's wax printers for casting metals? They're very popular with jewellers and the precision of the prints is similar to that of SLA/DLP machines.

>>1237027

enclosure is fine, but you need some kind of airflow

>>1237064
>I'm in the process of converting it to a bottom up though
Why. With the vat being a consumable wouldnt it just be a waste for a hobby grade printer.
Besides that, did you have to modify your projector to get it too work.
How strong would you say the resin you used is. Could you use it for mechanical parts like a gear under load from a servo.
Is it worth it if you have an fdm printer. Are the fumes too strong for using in your house.

>>1237124
Doesn't Formlabs have a wax simulant resin?

>>1237164
Not that anon, but
>vat being a consumable
Vat bottoms are only really consumed by failed prints, aggressive resins, and physical abuse. If your process is dialed in, you drain the resin after every print, and you use Kimwipes instead of cheap paper towels for cleanup, vat bottoms can last through liters of resin. On the other hand, just one failed print can ruin your vat bottom.
Vat bottoms are maybe 1-2% of the price of the resin you run on them. The vat body and sides can last forever if constructed well out of non-reactive material.
>did you have to modify your projector
Usually do, if you want decent print times. All color wheels do is soak up light.
>strong
Most low-cost resins are urethane-acrylic blends. For the Wanhao resins, tensile strength is on par with cast acrylic and hardness is on par with polypropylene.
There is an ever-expanding selection of resin offerings with properties suitable for any application, from figurine-grade FunToDo at 60USD/L up to dental resins in the 400USD/L range.
For gears, geometry matters almost as much as what you're doing with them and how much load they're under.
>Is it worth it if you have an fdm printer
Only if you need the properties that DLP can provide, such as thin Z layers and high resolution.
>Are the fumes too strong for using in your house.
Some of them are pretty heady and none of them are very healthy to breathe. You'll want to keep your vat top lidded when you don't have active ventilation running.
t.Wanhao D7 owner

>>1237171
Yes, as do FunToDo and several other resin manufacturers.

>>1237164
guy who you respondet to here.
>>1237197
pretty much got it covered.
However I have an Acer H6510BD which works for printing out of the box. If I ever need more light I still can remove the collor wheel.
>Is it worth it if you have an fdm printer
Realy depends on the stuff you want to do. I use my FDM machine for a majority of the parts I need, but sometims the stuff I want is just to small for a FDM machine to handle.

>>1236693
>>1236744

Correct me if i'm wrong, but aren't unicorn horns and strange funguses supposed to be printed with ninjaflex or similar?

>>1237647
No, ninjaflex is not at all stiff enough.
Store bought "jelly" ones are actually extremely dense, even though they dont really look like it.

Geeetech I3 Pro B
For some reason the left Z axis motor runs slower than the right one, or so I guess. I can't notice a difference just by looking at it moving, but after a while the motors start making some horrible sounds while moving and then jam. The right one is always higher than the left one, so I have to realign them.

Is that a known issue and what's the fix for this?

>>1237663
>runs slower than the right one

if it has stepper motors like lots of hobbyiest products, they don't actually run "slower". they miss steps in multiples of 4, which gives the appearance of running slower.

check all your connections. one motor is missing steps either because it has gone bad, or it is not receiving proper drive voltages. If you can swap the motors that will tell you whether it's a motor issue or a driver issue.

>>1237677
Not the anon with the problem, but it does have steppers and they are both being driven in parallel by a single stepper driver.

It sounds like the stepper itself having problems

>>1237686
>l by a single stepper driver.

then it seems that either:

a motor is bad

connections are bad

the driver can no longer drive two motors.

I'd look at connections. Contact cleaner helps. sometimes just plugging and un-plugging a few times will fix bad connections.

>>1237686
>in parallel
There's your problem. Your motors are probably fine. The design is fucked.

>>1237707
This design works for most people, shit it may be

Looking to buy my first printer, right now I'm undecided between the wanhao duplicator plus and the creality cr10

I can get the wanhao off Amazon for like 375e, same price fur the cr10 but from gearbest but I'd like to not get chinked

What would you suggest? Is the cr10 that better beside printing size? 300X300x400 is appealing

>>1237707
Its the standard design for a lot of printers

how good is the esun brand. Looking at their cheap pla and petg.

>>1238001

Get a chinkshit $200 printer off of AliExpress.

By the time you eventually get it working well, you will be much more knowledgeable about printing, and will know if spending more money is worth it.

Getting a cheap shitty machine working is the best way to learn

>>1238113
>>1238001
Getting a cheap shitty machine working is the best way to learn /if you want to learn/. I'm not trying to scare you off, just that there's no end to stories like "I bought a 3D printer and it burned out all the time and gave me terrible prints! 3D printing is stupid and a waste of money!".

If you're willing to put forth the effort to learn and improve, though, go for it.

Okay so, what does this sound like for an idea, or is it already done, to combat backlash and therefore allow for higher accuracy from lower quality lead screws, having two lead screws on a single axis that are adjusted so that they are pushed right up to opposite sides of the thread-form so that they counteract their backlash, or even have them sprung so that they are always tight against the thread.

>>1238150
Anti-backlash nuts already exist and do pretty much what you described with a spring

>>1238146
My duplicator i pretty much worked out of the box. Pain in the ass to level, since it dips in the center. But once I got some level prints it made it extremely easy.
>>1238001
Why get the plus. There are more mods designed for the i3 v2.1 and it does the exact same thing for less. Hell you could check out the maker select which is a cheaper clone but might not be as up to date.

I can get a Mini v2 (new) for $200
or a Select Plus (open box) for $240

leaning towards the Plus for the larger build size

>>1238193
>open box
No, these things are finicky enough with bent frames.
The select should be 270 new.

>>1238198
The Select Plus is $340 new ($400 + 15% off coupon)
You're probably thinking of the Select v2 which is a lot cheaper but from what I've read needs mods right out of the box

If refurbished/open box is a bad idea I'll settle with the Mini v2

>>1238232
>If refurbished/open box is a bad idea

Its a toss up, with the quality control of cheap chinese parts the control board or stepper could have died. It could have been too much of a pain in the ass for someone to get into.

Im not sure if I would do it or not, but its not like a refurb is going to for sure be bad. Also the inherent design of it being slapped together, replacing a bad part would fix it immediately

>>1238066
eSun PLA+ and the PETG have been treating me great so far

>>1238066
I like it a lot. Inland's the same stuff for a few bucks cheaper.

>>1236605
is there a way to increase/decrease the extrusion rate with code near the end of a print/at a certain line of g-code?

>>1238113
>>1238146
>>1238170


I'm not scared now and I don't think I'll be with a little tinkering

I ordered the cr-10 since (with time ofc) I'd like to have the option to print big things
I also saw the thingiverse groups and looked at the mods/improvements that can be done
I thought about a chinkshit kit but I'd rather have a community aka support group should something go wrong

final price was 370€

>>1238392
M200 sets the filament diameter, not sure if this would work but worth a try
M221 sets an extrusion multiplier thats 100 (%) by default, this has never worked me from the gui, whenever i set it to 99 it barely extrudes, when i set it to 101 it goes crazy and shits our plastic like no tomorrow

see:http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code

>>1236605
doing a yearly status check,
Can I get a decent resolution print with something like a reprap or maybe some other "diy, got 3 extra printers for parts, arduino, trip to lowes and the hobby store" yet?

>>1238433
If last year wasn't good enough, then this year isn't going to be good enough either. Rather than FDM, you should look into SLA.

So question. Assuming you're a total noob with regards to 3d printing, how much effort would it take do you think to print about 10 meters of this shit?
They're cabinet door slides. Just those little bits of plastic that keep the sliding doors aligned. I need a bunch for a project, but I shit you not, this crap is $20 a meter. It's just cheap grooved plastic. $20 a meter. I nearly had an aneurysm.

I had a look around and the cheap chink 3d printers are about the same price as what i'd be paying anyway, but reusable, so it's up for consideration. The problem as I see it is I need them in 1800mm lengths, and I don't know if those dinky little cheapo printers can do something that long.

>>1238146
Nothing wrong with getting a good machine and using it to bootstrap bigger, better ones. I may yet try to build an FDM with my DLP.

>>1238433
There are printer attachments that fit atop your cell phone these days. All you need is visible curing resin and a dark place and a phone without the curved screen meme.

>>1238454
>1800mm lengths
Pretty much not gonna happen. Consider subtractive machining instead.

>>1238456
>Pretty much not gonna happen.
Freight will likely cost more if I order them pre-made. I cannot believe how hard the price is being gouged on this shit. Thanks for the reply anyway.

>>1238456
>Pretty much not gonna happen.

I don't know much about 3d printing, but why couldn't you set up a conveyor belt system where the printer prints as the part moves along.

it still seems like a ridiculous way to make the part he wants, but let's say you want to print any simple form 20 feet long. Other than programming and building the system that moves the part, is there an inherent limitation to 3d printing that makes this impossible.

>>1238454
>>1238458
You should buy plastic stock and have any local machine shop cut two grooves into it, or do it yourself if you have the tools. On a 3D printer, you could print it in several parts, but definitely not one 1800mm part, only enormous and ridiculously expensive printers can do that kind of size.
>>1238459
There is no inherent limitation, but you need to print vertically, so you'd need enough vertical space either to fit the print height or to bend the printed material away to horizontal. I think it'd be easier to make some ghetto injection molding process than to deal with that - not to mention printing time.

>>1238458
If you needed more like 100m of the stuff, it might be worth buying a sack of HDPE pellets and building a cheap-and-easy screw extruder somewhere.
For subtractive machining, you might just take some pieces of plastic or aluminium bar stock and stack up some cutting wheels to cut your profile, then push them through. It depends on the exact dimensions. Consider talking with your local machinists.

>>1238459
The profile would be rough all along the way, which defeats the purpose of this part. If you insist on FDM, you'd want a normal printer with a very long Y axis. I'd recommend cutting an extrusion die out of aluminium or steel instead, which will create a part as long as you have space for.

>>1238453
idk about last year, its been a while since I checked back. Theres going to be a major breakthrough any day now.

>>1238456
>printer attachments that fit atop your cell phone
shheeeeiiiiit

>>1238232
The Select and Select Plus are the exact same thing except some QoL stuff. nothing functionally different between them. The are clones of the Duplicator i3 v2.1 and i3 plus. Which again are the same except for some QoL stuff.
The only thing about the Select v2 is that it can be the i3 v2 or i3 v2.1. The v2.1 has a few minor upgrades. That being said this was a year ago or the Select v2 will probably be the v2.1.

>>1238467
I have a hard time believing you'll get any good prints out of something like that

Anyone here have a form 2? Kinda thinking about getting one but how good is the accuracy? Need something under 0.1mm, and high repeatability. I looked at 3D hubs but it's pretty expensive over time

>>1238454
try extruding it by yourself.

>>1238622
the print quality can't be shit if you never deliver the printer :^)

>monoprice has a 15% off entire store* labor day coupon

>*excluding all 3d printers

>>1238759
3d printers are letting everyone grasp the means of production
of course it will never be off

>>1238467
4 hours is a long time for something so small with such tiny cross-sectional area.

>>1238674
All SLA's are pretty expensive to run, resins aren't cheap

Also make sure you hollow all your models before slicing, helps to save on resin among other plus factors for how its done.

>>1238467
it's already been delayed for what 2 years now and the folks behind it went AWOL last time I checked.

secondly, low powered LCD to cure resin lol

>>1238759
They just ended a sale on all their printers not long ago

Where can you buy a used printer?

>>1238883
What do you mean hollow? It's already pretty hollowed out because it's pieces for a model kit, made mostly of 1-2mm walls that enclose over other moving parts. It's still like $30 to have it printed and shipped and I've already spent around $100 testing out shapeways and sculpteo's options with various prototypes. If one part takes that many tries I imagine it'll be cheaper in the long run to just buy my own printer and do the work myself. Not to mention I won't have to wait up to 2 weeks for it...

>>1238883
It was worth a chuckle.
nanoDLP will supposedly build hexagonal infill for you. Haven't tried it yet.

>>1238913
2mm walls are fine. Just don't try to build a solid 8x12mm irregular section. Consider a Wanhao D7 for about $500. It's very repeatable on the x-y axes once you get your process dialed in. You still have to compensate for resin shrink manually.

>>1238935
*irregular wall section

>>1238935
>2mm walls are fine. Just don't try to build a solid 8x12mm irregular section. Consider a Wanhao D7 for about $500. It's very repeatable on the x-y axes once you get your process dialed in. You still have to compensate for resin shrink manually.
All the DLP resin's I've seen suck ass. I'm interested in Formlab's tough resin, which looks like a pseudo ABS

>>1238959
SLA and DLP resins are basically the same shit.
Have you checked out 3dresyns.com? Shipping is a bit expensive, but they do have a variety of formulations with a wide range of properties for otherwise reasonable prices, available in any RAL or PMS color, along with additive packages for you to tune them to any printer.
>not just dumping the formlabs cartridge into the vat

Is amz3d a good filament brand? Don't want to pay out the ass for (((hatchbox)) orange pla

>>1238959
Not all but you gotta pay bucko bucks for an outstanding DLP machine, the maoi is so close to touching really good DLP machine.

And same thing for the resins the vast majority of hobbyist grade stuff works alright, at my old job we used envision tech and asiga, fantastic machines and resins but you pay out of the ass for them.

for 3rd party resins, 3dresyns are good, Dreve though they aren't cheap anywhere from 150 usd to 900 usd per litter.

the datasheet for formlabs tough resin, is great, I really like their datasheets, full breakdowns of tensile strength, thermal expansions etc

One thing I have heard is that it chews through their vats fairly quickly, well more of the bottom of the vat tends to cloud up much faster then other materials.

>>1238990
Jeez you must be the same guy I talked to in the previous thread. 3dresyns's resins don't elongate at all before breaking which is probably going to be a problem for my applications.

Also, I'm fairly certain DLP can't cure formlabs resins because a screen just isn't a moderately powerful laser. Or at the very least it would take much longer.

>>1239000
Dreve's looks okay but I'm looking for something as close to ABS as possible. There will probably be a lot of lever action on the joints, so besides being stiff I figure it should also be able to have some ability to deform slightly without breaking if there is too much force on it. It's a shoulder joint btw.

>>1239003
have you considered trying SLS, to be more exact PA11 or PA12/2200?

>>1239007
I tried shapeways's strong and flexible plastic and sculpteo's HP multijet. They were typically off by over 0.1mm and the variance on the multijet was sometimes as bad as FDM. Like 2.9 to 3.1mm on a single peg. But that was a different design. In any case, it was pretty bad, definitely not what I thought would happen.

>>1239009
god damn that is utter shit tolerances from HP jesus how did they manage to take a machine designed for fairly decent tolerances and turn it into a shit FFF

Has anyone used an aquarium pump or some other sort of air pump to cool prints? I've been trying to figure out a cooling solution for the E3D Chimera's hotends and I noticed CNC router guys use aquarium pumps and other sorts of pumps to blow chips directing the air through some sort of jointed pipes

>>1239017
I mean it could be sculpteo's operating, I noticed one set was a little bit better than the other but it was still pretty poor overall. That said, it's a pointless distinction unless I can find a good source for them

>>1239021
I've never used them before, other then looking up the oddball datasheet or whitepapers here and there but have you checked out protolabs before?

>>1238997
Try 3dsolutech, should still be having a sale going.

>>1239029
No, but on their homepage it says parts starting at $95... Way out of my budget. I want to make one offs for like $30 model kits, maybe open it to sale for $1 profit or something. But at $95 I might as well just scratch build it from polystyrene sheets and rods.

>>1239017
Cooling down takes time and and can cause deforming if it happens too fast.

>>1238831
>>1238883
>secondly, low powered LCD to cure resin lol
yea I know its a total joke.

>>1239141
the complete HP system has the part retrieve system, where the vast majority of it is automated basically, so shouldn't such a great issue as with some of the older systems.

For some reason, the surface of my prints is full of holes. The bottom is pretty smooth without holes.
I'm printing with 100% infill, PLA, 190°C nozzle, 50°C bed, 1.75mm filament and a nozzle multiplier of 1.15.
What am I doing wrong?

>>1239349
Underextrusion
>extruder motor too weak
>nozzle too low temp
>printing infill at too high speed/basically the same as extruder motor being too weak
>extrusion is not calibrated properly
Try setting the flow multiplier up high and look at your extruder motor while printing, if you hear some clicking or it seems like it's not turning as much as it should, then it's in the first three points. Otherwise it should be the fourth.

>>1239352
Thanks, I'll try that.
I actually heard clicking, but that only happened while printing infill. At 205°C, it's gone now.
The surface also got a bit better, albeit not yet good. It also got pretty hard to remove from the glass bed, I'll count that as a good thing.

>>1239352
It could also be a Slicer issue, I guess. While printing the first layer, everything's fine. But the other layers all have the gaps in there.

>>1239364
Clicking is always bad, it means that the stepper is missing steps. You can increase the amps to the motor, which might fix it, but you must watch the motor temperature, especially on the extruder motor. It can get hot enough to melt the PLA right in the extruder assembly.
The speed of print(which decides how much material needs to go through the nozzle per second), the extruder motor's power (which depends on the motor's rated torque and the amount of amps it gets) and the resistance of the nozzle(temperature of the nozzle(+heat capacity of the nozzle) + diameter of nozzle + viscosity of the plastic, versus amount of material being pushed through) make up the underextrusion triangle, these all affect each other. You had low temps apparently, so when the infill was being printed quickly, the PLA wasn't melting fast enough at 190C, or rather the nozzle was unable to stay at melting temperature due to not enough heat capacity.
>>1239370
That's probably not 100%, but it could be trying to extrude a much larger thickness to save printing time. Fiddle with the settings.

>>1239376
Thanks again for the help.
I found the correct setting ("top solid infill", just had to up that), it's now printing the top layers like the first layer. It's not perfect yet, but pretty close and definitely good enough for me.

>>1239401
The other anon is right, but just an FYI giving too much anperage to your steepers can make them lose steps too

Test it with a multimeter

>>1237663
both motors are powered on a single stepper driver, increase stepper voltage carefully.

change orientation of lockrings to stabilize x axis.

lube the rods with ptfe lubricant, or any light oil.

failing that, free the threaded rod, but keep the smooth rods captive.

if your extruder is plastic eventually print a replacement, the filament idler will be the thing to break.

if all that fails, your stepper driver is probably fucked and you need to buy a single replacement.

if you remove the x-axis and it (z motors) still turns at a different rate, i'd say the stepper driver or motor is somehow dead.

I have:
replaced extruder with metal
unbent smooth rods
replaced threaded rods with acme screws.

if you have questions, don't hesitate to reply.

>>1239414
Thanks.
I'm pretty sure I've already solved this issue: I just lubed it up because there was some annoying squeaking, and the problem with the unaligned axes went away as well. Done a ton of prints since then and no issues anymore.

My friend bought a printer but he will let me use for a bit since he is busy with work.

My first idea for a project is a compass. A circle on a base with a spot for the needle in the middle and maybe a cover for the top.

Easy or hard?

I'm kind of skimming through the 3Dhubs guide now

>>1239428
if the z-wobble is ever significant, i can tell you its probably not originating from any of the rods themselves (my threaded rods were not significantly bent), but the springy z-couplers themselves are eccentric.
still, give the stepper a tweak more voltage if you have not yet.
ok, that's my last bit of advice.

>>1239429

Easy, but the pin for the needle may not be very strong

any chance of some good sales soon or should I just buy a printer right now

Inland PLA is dirt cheap.
Is it good. What are the downsides like do high res prints (.05 layer height) work.

>>1239690
Is there a reason for that?

>>1239817

There probably is a good mechanical reason... But that comment was based solely on my experiences making pocket sized herb grinders for, err, cooking on the go.

The teeth always broke on me, until they got to a substantial size.

It'll depend on the size of the needle I suppose

>>1239846
Interesting, it'll be worth a try anyway. Thanks for advice.

Why do printers use a ramps board. Wouldnt a chinese arduino and 4 knock off easy drivers work just as well for less than $10. Is it because They dont want to use knockoff parts.

>>1239781

>0.5mm layer height
Wouldnt that be low-res? I print almost everything at 0.1

>>1239861
Ramps is about $10 including the Arduino???

>>1239875
You missed where the decimal is.

I got a kit recently and havent printed anything yet because of a jam.

I've cleaned it out and now I just want to check, how far do I insert the ptfe filament tube into the hot end? as far as it can go?

>>1239959
Are kits a good place to start?

>>1239861
Umm, Ramps is an arduino shield, so it does use a chinese arduino and cheap stepper drivers.
There are many more functions in a 3d printer than just driving steppers, which the Ramps consolidates and puts into a nice easy package.

The arduino and ramps setup with a4988s only costs ~$20.

>>1239959
>how far do I insert the ptfe filament tube into the hot end? as far as it can go?

Yes, you dont want a gap between the heat break and the PTFE tubing. It can cause a jam.

Heat the hotend up, dip a piece of filament into cooking oil, then manually shove it through the hotend.
It will season the nozzle and sometimes make it jam less.

>>1239961
Youll be a whole lot more in tune with printing in general if you put the kit together and tune it properly.
Its not the easiest thing the in the world, but 3d printing isnt plug and play

>>1239884

Oh, I'm a derp

>>1239970

I got it back in, but I think I need a new tube anyway, its a bit short.

>>1239961

>Are kits a good place to start?

This one has been horrible for my first experience. I thought it was going to be easy to get started and learning, but its been a pain throughout. Not that I'd completely rule out kits, but be extra careful.

>>1240047
3d printing in general is a pain in the dick no matter what kit.

http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPSXB

Ran into this on reprap. It looks pretty new, and not sure who the hell needs that many extruders or if the mega can handle the processing, but it looks like an interesting idea.

>>1240050
Can confirm.

Guarantee there will be numerous times a month where youll find your current print is trash compared to your last one, and you did nothing but relevel the bed inbetween.

>>1239781
Inland is made by eSun so its probably similar quality to hatchbox, esun, all the other ~$20 brands.

Why the cura so inaccurate for estimated print time? I was printing a print that says it would only 12 hours, and now it's been over 15 and it's still not done

>>1240343
assuming that you are using the newer cura releases click on the little gear cog thingy in the custom settings and set your acceleration and jerk settings to what they are for your machine.

>>1240343
because every machine is different and its why a lot of slicers dont give estimates.
The print will always take a little longer

>>1240343

I use a manual service to estimate print time - I make a wild guess, and its always like 3 times that.

>>1239000
>Not all but you gotta pay bucko bucks for an outstanding DLP machine, the maoi is so close to touching really good DLP machine.
Do you know if the moai can print in formlabs's resins?

>>1237027
It is if you kept the control box outside

>>1240619
I'm not sure, I'd need to double check the datasheets for their resin

But the maoi is a 405nm laser like the form2 so it should work in theory. Just need to play with the exposure settings.

I know folks have been have great success with the makerjuice SF, G and wax series

>>1240343

Because it doesn't take into account acceleration

I just ordered my second lulzbot mini.

They're so fucking bulletproof. If my print queue keeps filling up like it currently has been I may have to buy a third.

>>1238959
I have a Form 2 and usually use the tough resin. I also have an FDM that I only print ABS with. The site says its comparable to ABS which is pretty much accurate. The resin's not miraculously strong but it's more resilient than FDM ABS since the layers are fused completely together. It's also a translucent dark teal color which is cool if you're in to that.

The grey resin is what I would use for any piece that isn't put under stress. Print in grey resin, make a silicone mold, and cast in epoxy resins for best results would be my advice.

I haven't tried it but the Durable resin they make is supposed to compare to polypropylene which might be a better option than the Tough resin.

The level of detail is phenomenal, you won't be disappointed by that. It can shit out 28mm miniatures in its sleep. I feel kind of bad because I haven't printed anything with super-intricate details at .05 mm or .025 mm yet but when I do get a model worthy of that level of detail I expect it will be like a religious experience seeing it.

>>1240710
>The grey resin is what I would use for any piece that isn't put under stress. Print in grey resin, make a silicone mold, and cast in epoxy resins for best results would be my advice.
Aren't most epoxy resins brittle and weak? In fact, most cast resins are pretty weak. You need to get the industrial stuff that kills brain cells per sniff to start entering thermoplastic-simulant territory.

>>1240239
>>1240050
I have a monoprice select and I think I spent the majority of my time fighting with the thing to get proper prints. Finally, once I had upgraded the bed to a thicker aluminum sheet and glass, added Z-braces, upgraded the electronics and put in an all-metal hotend I can comfortably say that I spend almost no time futzing with it anymore. It's just design-print-enjoy with an occasional bed re-leveling. So much less of a headache. If I buy another printer, I'm going to splurge for a prusa or something that auto-levels.

I'm currently reliving this whole mess with my 3D printed CNC. Consequently I haven't touched it much...

I'm doing something stupid and I need a way to control 2 24V dc servo motors with an opto encoders using a RAMPS board. I know there are a few hackaday style boards that use step direction pins. Anyone know of any that work?

Today is the day I follow my dream

Are there any fool proof ways to profit from my future printer?

>>1241044

>print triforce statues/necklaces/keyrings etc
>spray paint gold
>sell on Etsy for exorbitant prices

Offer customizations for bonus shekels

Boring work, but nerds love that shit so it's easy money

>>1241053
Please we all know the custom buttplug market is much more in demand on Etsy, just put a dog/rabbit/ whatever animal tail at the end, you'll need to get 10 printers just to keep it in stock

How do you stop yourself from being cheap and ordering from China and paying in painful wait time rather than spending the extra buck and getting things quickly?

I can't help myself, I'm a Scrooge.

>>1241053
>>1241069
I know this isn't the way but can you anons recommend me something to create and sell?

I don't know why this is so difficult right now. I just want to make the stuff.

>>1241123
>bought tl-smoothers from aliexpress
>took almost 3 months to show up

It took him almost 3 weeks to charge my card, shit is terrible.

>>1241136
You will never ever make money. You are a sap for buying your printer under the guise of making money.
They arent expensive to buy and the quality isnt good enough for people to buy shit you make them.

That ship was short lived and has already sailed

>>1241169
I feel like this is true, but only for small tchotchkes. If you make something big and cool and sci-fi, someone will want it.

>>1241168
> tl-smoothers
Didnt know these things existed, im off buying diodes tomorrow.

Why didnt you just go to to local electronic store?

>>1241123
I've dealt enough with their bullshit I rather just pay the bucks for quality even if its not needed for its application

>>1241191
I actually had the diodes laying around, but I didnt want to build them myself.
The footprint of the premade boards using surface mount diodes and already having pigtails made was worth it. I bought them when they were on sale for 5 bucks shipped.

>>1241169
Im buying my printer under the guise of making wearable storage devices and a nice hmd for virtual sculpting . I have a lot more toys planned but they'll take a while to fund and develop.

I do know a few guys with farms so I can use them to make a profit if doing it with my own is too costly. Id much rather use my own though.


Any suggestion is welcome anon. I'll even share the files.

>>1241123
This is what you should do, except plan ahead so when you actually get to the point where you need the things they're already delivered. Shipping is like 2-3 weeks, it's not that terrible. What sucks is when you start working and it turns out that something you got either isn't the right type or just doesn't work, usually the former.

>>1241367
Ordering a complete set of replacement parts isn't easy anon. Not without fortune tellers. And the prices those charge would eat all the savings.

Predicting breakage isn't easy. Though in this particular instance it would have been as its a common issue.

>>1241169
My first printer paid for itself in a month.

My second printer is to keep up with customer demand. I might have to buy a third printer in a week or two if demand doesn't scale back down.

I'm probably a rare exception though. Given that I have a good niche for my product.

>>1241473
What are those?

What printer are you using?

>>1241473
>it's an AR fag

kys m8

My BCN3D Sigma failed very violently last night but I'm not 100% of the cause yet. Whatever happened, the bed was rising on the Z-axis, but the limiter switch attached to the primary extruder that tells the bed to stop didn't activate and the bed didn't stop. It made an unholynoise, horrific noise as the lead screw kept trying to turn but the bed was smashed up against the extruder head...while the extruder was also still trying to move to the other side of the build plate.

I didn't catch it for ten minutes and that was enough time to bend the metal brackets holding up the bed, snap off the non-functional limiter switch, break the plastic casing around the linear slide, and crack the casing around one of the fans by the hot end. I'm sure the nozzle is FUBAR too. At least it doesn't seem like any one expensive part broke, just a bunch of cheap ones. I'm also lucky the glass build plate didn't crack and it didn't try to extrude any plastic, though it has stopped a multi-print project dead in its tracks.

This will be my first major repair for this machine but the outlook is positive at this point.

>>1241473
What's this? Airsoft?
Give me your entire business model so I can do what you do senpai.

>>1241473
I'm about one month in and I haven't made a cent yet.

>>1241547
Mine does that all the fucking time, kek. I haven't broken anything (important) yet.

>>1241490
>What are those?
Homemade Nerf Blaster.
>>1241517
>AR fag
Just the grip. Had to go with something a bunch of people prefer.

>>1241608
>Notice me Sempai
I've made the file set public domain. So if you want to produce some in parallel with me you are welcome to.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2376150

You can find a basic materials list for all the hardware under a spoiler tag here.

http://nerfhaven.com/forums/topic/27193-caliburn-mag-fed-pump-action-springer/

>>1241783
git gud. Or just sign-up for 3dhubs and print shit for other people.

>>1241490
>What printer are you using?
lulzbot mini and a makergear m3.

The lulzbot mini is more reliable and half the price of the makergear. The only feature of the M3 that I like could be added to any other printer by just buying a Raspberry Pi and installing Octoprint on it.

>>1241786
>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2376150

Holy dog shit, that is pretty fucking cool

how much should i pay for large prints on a gigabot?

i want to do interior panels for cars.

>>1241790
I've been developing it since October of last year. The first 6 were machined out of polycarbonate.

>>1241785
interdasting
Any idea why?

I was able to turn it on and remove the filament - it homes the bed before removing it so I had to activate the broken limit switch manually before it head crashed again. So apparently it wasn't the limit switch itself that failed but something in the height limiting system screwed up. I still need to replace the switch because the plastic is broken though.

>>1241786
>nerf pump action
I happened upon that and thought it was really cool a while back. Well done anon.

>>1241788
>The lulzbot mini is more reliable and half the price of the makergear
I just realised how expensive makergear got.
I paid 1400$ for my M2 back in 2012 and as far as I can tell the actual hardware stayed prettymuch the same.

I want to setup a camera to monitor my 3D printer while I am outside my housee and I leave it printing.

I am also buying a WiFi electrical outlet so I can shut down the printer remotely.

Has any anon done this already?

I am thinking about just getting a webcam, connect it to my pc, and livestream the printing.

Any advice? how can you "live stream" from a webcam, or better, post a pic every minute somewhere?

A stepper motor that unwinds itself a little before the filament tugs on the extruder?

Is this a thing that already exists? Where can i find designs?

>>1241783
The fuck is that thing?

>>1242137
looks like a selfmade printer enclosure to me.

>>124213
>how can you "live stream" from a webcam, or better, post a pic every minute somewhere?

leaving the computer all the time is wasteful, and it may reboot when MS issues an update. best solution is a baby monitor, the kind parents use to check on their kids while at work. you may need to muck around with your router to allow certain ports. if you get a good camera, it'll include a dynamic DNS service so you can access it without knowing your current IP address at home.

>>1242150
>leaving ms updates enabled
shiggydiggy

>>1241823
>Any idea why?


Normally it's because I set the inductive sensor too high, so it doesn't see the tiny bit of tinfoil beneath 2mm of glass, but that will change since I've ordered a build surface sticker which I will put directly on top of the aluminum bed

>>1242135
>I want to setup a camera to monitor my 3D printer while I am outside my housee and I leave it printing.
>I am also buying a WiFi electrical outlet so I can shut down the printer remotely.
Get a Rasberr Pi and install Octoprint on it. Then plug in a webcam.

To do control from outside of your network you just need a remote DNS service of some kind and you can do everything that you are asking for from the Octoprint interface.

If you are lazy you can just buy an AstroBox.

New type of PLA has clogged my nozzle, how do anons unclog?

I tried a cold pull at 100°c (after a few minutes at 215°), but it wouldnt budge

Any suggestions? Cold pull has worked with all previous materials...

>>1242195
Do a pull with a material that works
Try different temperatures.
Use pliers so you have more leverage.
If you have compressed air (no, can wont be enough) try using that to blow through the nozzle the opposite way.

>>1242200

>Do a pull with a material that works

But it is clogged, should I "force" a new type of filament in there?

Compressed air sounds good, I'll see if my airbrush compressor is enough

>>1242209
Can you extrude by hand? If yes, do it, if not... id do it either way

>>1241786
>git gud

Wont lie, Im jealous, but you bought 2 of the best machines on the market, pay 2 win pleb.

>>1242195

I usually just cold pull, but since it's PLA you could leave it in a vat of sodium hydroxide solution overnight

How do you straighten PTFE tubes, /3dpg/?

>>1242331
I havent been able to, but your filament isnt straight either so it shouldnt be a problem

>>1242136
Rephrase that, I dont understand what you want

>>1242333

If the PTFE tube is wobbly it will increase friction, I wanna try that before moving to a direct extruder machine

>>1242346
>If the PTFE tube is wobbly it will increase friction,

The second you are forcing the filament into the hotend it will bind against the wall whether its straight or not. PTFE is very slick which is why its used.

Its not causing your clogs

>>1242348
I don't have any clogs, just some kind of "extruder lag" which I haven't been able to completely eliminate using Cura's retraction settings alone

>>1242354
What is the lag doing?
Bowden is more finicky with retraction settings.

Are you dealing with stringing or underextrusion?
A lot of times you would think underextrusion would be from poor retraction settings, but its actually your Esteps need calibrated better

>>1242356
>What is the lag doing?

When the machine is doing small features it will draw them before the plastic even starts flowing, and when it's finished drawing and starts moving elsewhere that plastic droplet will stick somewhere along the way

>>1242335
Direct drive extruders, when they extrude they pull filament off the spool. And according to newtons third law, the extruder is pulled towards the spool, displacing it a tiny amount and affecting the quality of the print.
So instead of relying of the extruder motor pulling off filament from the spool, there should be a stepper motor that turns the spool so the filament always stays loose.

I want to know if there are designs to solve this, i tried googling but dont know what this thing is called.

>>1242367
if your printer is running on marlin the LIN_ADVANCE feature might be helpful

>>1242371
In a lot of printers the Z axis motors are in parallel and they run fine

Why dont you just buy a second stepper, wire it in parallel with your extruder, and then attach it to a spool holder. Connect a belt and pulleys at the right gear ratio and itll do what you want

Ive never seen a design for it because im not sure its really going to make a difference in print quality. The only time I see it bind is at the very end of the spool where it gets stiff

>>1241367
>>1241438
Does anyone know of a good place to read about common breakages in the Anet a8 other than lots of searching for user reported problems?

>>1242371

Just make a spoolholder that sits on bearings, then it turns easy enough it is always "loose" - worked absolute wonders for me

Theres quite a lot of reviews saying the creality cr-10 is the best bang for your buck.
Looking at a second printer. I have a duplicator i3 which is a little smaller. Looking for something in the same price range.

>>1242673
Just got mine a few days ago, really liking it.

Getting pretty great print quality out of it with uncle jessy's simplify3d profile and eSun PLA+.

The only bad things I have to say about it as of right now, is they might as well not ship it with glass and they need to detach the helical coupler for shipping .

But lets be honest, coupler is like 5-15 bucks on amazon.
Piece of mirror ~13 bucks and at least at my local lowes that got me 2 pieces of 12x12

I did get the single leadscrew version since it was cheaper, and lets face it the x axis assemble isn't heavy really doesn't need another one

Hey /diy/, just bought a Prusa i3 MK2. How did I do?

>>1242371
Run the filament through a PTFE tube that sits directly against the extruder on one end and is mounted to the frame on the other

>>1236693
>>1237647
Use it to make a mold, not as is. Then you can make many unicorn horns and have a unicorn party

>>1242930
>paying twice the money just for the brand
you did shit mate

>>1242371
Is your extruder motor not a direct drive?
newtons 3rd law doesnt really apply here. The mass of the filament and acceleration isnt enough to overcome the friction in the system.

>>1242135
Ultimaker already has this. And the UM3 is the best printer I've tried so far. Worth the buck.

>>1242474
This. Talk about overengineered.

>>1242371
I work at one of the leading FDM 3D printer companies. I discuss this with our development team.

>>1243195
I'll * hehe

I was also thinking about making a cutter with a length counter. So you could meassure the length of fillament, and when you have enough for your print (for example, 5m print, you take 5.5m fillament) you cut it at that location.

This way you can put fillament in the extraction motor and use the rest of a fillament in a different printer. You'll also always know for sure if you have enough.

The fillament losely hanging on a pin instead of with a heavy spool will also solve your problem since the counter force will be almost 0.

Opinions guys?

>>1243195
Just use bearings.

>>1243216
Do you have examples of artifacts in prints due to the extruder engine having to pull the fillament in?

>>1243198
There is a "filament runout" that Marlin has software for. Just uses optical sensors.

You just run your print, if your filament runs out the filament no longer hits the optical sensor.
It will sound an alarm, and pause your print.
You go in and change the filament, resume print and it will finish perfectly fine (albeit there will probably be a big gob of plastic where it resumed like they usually do).
Most people would just opt to use something like this.

Your idea seems like it would be useful to someone who is rationing out filament a lot. Like maybe a school teacher or something.

It would be easy to do, just get an extruder and replace the hobbled bolt/gear with something rubber and itll push the amount of plastic you want automatically.
You could probably even cut it automatically using a servo and some cutting tool.

The hardest part would be winding it on the other spool without fucking it up.
Look at Filastruders "Filawinder", making something like that would work fine.

>>1243238
My repcrap was lifting the nozzle about 0,5 mm in fast retractions.

Just got an i3 knockoff (Tronxy p802ma)

So will these shitty power suppilies actually burn my house down or is that just a meme? I don't have any old ATX power supplies kicking around at the moment so I am stuck with this until next month. Or am I more likely to have a fire hazard if I don't have a separate MOSFET for the heat bed? I'm going to sit and watch my prints while they run so I can kill it in case something goes wrong, but I'd still rather not have to replace anything.

>>1243257
Its what the majority of cheap printers use

Just make sure you have a decent gauge wire coming from the PSU to your electronics. If the wire is too thin it can get mighty hot
I use 14AWG

>>1243286
>mine came with 16awg
>manual specifically states 14awg or thicker

Fucksakes, I'm headed to the hardware store I guess. Thanks ay non

monoprice website has open box Mini v2 for $180 should I go for it

http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPSXB

Ran across this on the wiki, and I haven't seen anything like it.

Looks like it's still under development, And I'm not sure if the bullshit processor can handle that much, but I haven't really seen anything like this.

>>1243089
Got burned on a shit one a few years ago, decided not to make the same mistake twice and bought based on reviews.

>>1243393
Ehh, if you've got that kind of cash to blow more power to ya. Just know that you're paying for customer support you may never need.

>>1243416
That's good to know at least.

>>1243359
16 probably wont hurt anything
I burnt up a ramps board connector with 18AWG that got way too hot pulling a bunch of amps for the heated bed.

>>1243376
try to avoid open box printers or refurbs, most of the people that return them have a very good reason or they seriously fucked up the machine so badly that its basically a paper weight.

Or by from someone trusted that can provide a video of said machine printing decent results

>>1243418
>16 probably wont hurt anything

I'm sure it probably would have been fine but I decided to err on the side of caution and used 12awg to be safe. Damn near didn't fit in the holes but I'm def not going to have to worry about them overheating now

>>1243376
doesnt the mini cost $199?
Dont buy used or refurbished printers without seeing them in person. Literally anything wrong like a bent rod and youre spending days trying to calibrate and figure out why youre prints are failing.

>>1243257
Well that power supply already shat the bed. Ran for a couple of hours, then it sparked, and it won't turn on now.

I pulled the 500w ATX power supply from my computer amd I'm going to use it instead. What should I use to jump the green and black cables to make the ATX run?

Will a two-inch chunk of 16awg wire suffice? Pic related

>>1243869
It's just a digital level connection anon, you can use 26 awg and it won't matter

>>1243885
Right on. I'll just jam a dupont cable in there and be done with it.

Pretty bummed that I need to chop the molex connector off a perfectly good power supply but it wasn't totally unexpected.

I've gotta say, even with stock settings, the print quality on this Tronxy P802MA btfos the Anet A8 I've been working with. That auto-level really makes all the difference.

>>1242374
I want to try this, but I've been dealing with other problems (e.g: worn down belt) that I haven't managed to solve yet.

I regret ever wanting to make a CoreXY machine. Should have gone with an Ulticampy or a Makerbot-style machine.

>>1243869
>500w ATX power supply

Make sure you chop and connect EVERY yellow and EVERY black wire together on the entire power supply (each individual wire is only rated for like 75 watts) Otherwise, enjoy your house fire.

>>1243899
Ok, what are the yellow cables with a blue stripe on them? Goolag says they are 12v from a separate rail, not sure what that means...? Can I bundle them together with the solid yellow ones?

>>1243903
They're 12v for the CPU

If you have a multimeter then check for continuity between them and the other 12v wires, if it beeps then you can, if it doesn't you'll probably cause a short (because they aren't exactly at the same voltage) and kill the PSU

>>1243911
Ah okay, there are only two of those so I won't use them. I'm sure nine solid yellow ones will be overkill already. Thanks anon

I currently own a kinda okay-tier 3d printer with a smaller print volume than I'd like (220mm on all axis)

what would the hardest part of making a printer with a 50cm or larger print bed be? Do they sell heated beds that large or larger? would I need to upgrade from NEMA17 steppers? does it necessitate a particular style of printer?

I think I can figure out the electronics easily enough, I assume the trouble would be finding relatively inexpensive parts in that size that are rigid enough to make it work.

Do any of you nerds have printer with significantly larger than normal print volumes? Especially tradition prusa or ultimaker style mechanics? I know deltas are often considered the way to go for large prints, but I want it to be large in all directions, not just Z axis.

Anyone here own a lulzbot Taz 6?

Is blue painters tape just a meme? I have green painters tape and regular masking tape, is there a reason that the blue shit is so highly regarded?

>>1244038
They sell modified Creality CR-10 models with 500mm build area in each axis, that'd be your best bet

parts parts parts
>>1244052
I own three lulzbot minis. They're bulletproof and easy to use.

So why is the MakerBot z16 so shit? The damn thing costs $6000+ and it just gets out preformed by my cr-10

>>1244083
>Z16
Goddammit I meant z18

>>1244038
I'm building one like that. You must use a CoreXY (or anything else with bed being on Z), since the bed is inevitably really heavy at that size. The final size of the printer will be around 700^3, which is really pretty fucking big when you put it together. You can get 220V silicone heaters that are big enough, they're not super easy to find but one seller on aliexpress has exactly 500x500 ones for about $70.

>>1244071

It's definitely different to regular masking tape (I don't know about green)

I still find myself using a thin layer of pritt stick on top of my blue painters tape, as long as I'm leveled properly this always adheres correctly.

In my mind, the bes part about painters tape is how easy it is to remove the print afterwards. When I was using just a glass plate, I'd have to try all sorts of funky tricks to get the print free. With tape, I just remove the tape from the glass, then peeling the tap off the now freed print is MUCH easier. That alone is worth the £3 for a roll of tape

>>1244089

Do they sell 110 volt versions or will I have to find a way to route 220 into my printer's room?

I have 6 nema17's with three of them having 20% less torque than the other three. Im building a core xy printer with 450x450mm bed. Should I use the stronger steppers for xy or for z? Im using dual z.

>>1244475
You could use a step-up transformer, but at 1000W you're getting into the range where having its own circuit would be a good idea.

So printing onto glass beds is some kind of ebin 4chin meme right?

I put a shot of green onto my glass bed after anons post about painters tape - PETG FIRST LAYER CIRCLES STICK

Toast to the aynon who made everyone think a glue stick rubbed onto the fifteenth slippriest surface known to man was a good idea for a printbed

well memed

>>1244475
It's listed as 220V, but you can run it on 110V, it's just gonna take a while to reach temperature

Any alternatives to aluminum bed? I dont need it to be heated but I need it to be some sort of metal so my bed leveling sensor will work.

>>1244586
Use glass bed, with a few patches of conductive tape for the levelling sensor to read

>>1244605
Underneath the glass? I doubt that would work. Copper's actually slightly less conductive than aluminum by weight, and sensors generally don't have the range to trip reliably through glass anyway.

>>1244573
>glue stick
I've been using diluded cum on glass for years with no problems.
Heat bed to 60°C, apply a thin layer with a towel and wait two seconds for it to dry.

>>1244638
He probably means on top. The tape can't be more than 0.1mm

>>1244573
Green? What? Also there's no need to do anything special with petg like glue or green. Just print the first layer at like 5mm/s without a fan. As long as you don't pull it off and let it cool slowly without warping it'll stick like superglue

>>1244663
I think he means frog tape; either that or he's in the middle of having a stroke.

>>1244689
>>1244663
>>1244660
>>1244638
>>1244605

What if I bolt 1mm aluminum plate on top of some hard wood? That way the aluminum is secured so it wont warp and I dont have to pay bigger money for thick plate of aluminum.

I have no intention of making the bed heated. I use the printer for pla only.

>>1244750
is the sensor conductive, inductive, capacitive?

>>1244573
>So printing onto glass beds is some kind of ebin 4chin meme right?

No, some people actually have tight tolerances and their bed is flat
Glass is amazing because it sticks well enough, but when it cools down and contracts your print pops off easily. And it gives a beautiful flat finish on the bottom of your print.

Using tape gives a nasty finish, and its harder to remove the print when its done.

When I was using a shit bed, I used purple glue stick and blue tape, it was like fucking cement
I would never have a print pop off in the middle of printing, but getting it off was seriously a problem.

I use straight glass for most of my prints, if its going to be real tall or large I put a very light coat of purple gluestick

>>1244573
did you buy the right formula of glue stick?

>>1244475
I've seen 110-120V silicone heaters back when I was pricing such a printer. Maybe one day I'll build one too.

So how many spools of filament do all of you currently have?

>>1244968
~5kg

>>1244797
Different anon here. Thinking of getting a glass bed in the future. Do you ever use a spatula or a scraper to get prints off on glass beds? I'm thinking of replacing my scratched up buildtak surface sometime soon with a spare buildtak, but the imprints of the old prints are still there. I'm having to use a light scrape on small parts that I print just to get them off. I'm usually impatient and want to do a quick test on parts I print, then do another run so
I do bursts of prints with very little cooling - hence my question on spatula/scrapers.

Hell I might just suck it up and wait until parts cool off and contract if I get glass beds.

>>1244968

22lbs of rolls, maybe 10 of which are full. my black and white are almost empty because I'm mid-project and they're the medium I'm using.

>>1245045
you can spray a can of compressed air upside down at the print to cool it off really fast, sometimes that's enough to make it pop off on its own

>>1245045
>Do you ever use a spatula or a scraper to get prints off on glass beds?

I use a single edged razors, like the ones you put in the trendy "safety razors" from the 50s.

Also I have a small usb desk fan like pic related, it blows a decent amount of air and its small.
If I have room, I will set it on my bed and point it directly onto the part and bed. You can hear the print contracting making little creak noises and watch the bed temp drop.

I give it a few minutes and pop the razor under a corner and 90% of the time it comes up easily

>>1245078
Christ that's clever.

>>1245090
I might do just that, thanks.

Thank you for the replies, glass beds may not be too far away with this info.

>>1244797

I've been using borosilicate glass and i have to say it doesn't stick very well. If you get the surface absolutely clean with alcohol and crank up the heat it works, but i wouldn't call it reliable. Most of the time i end up resorting to gluestick. Also when printing with PETG, if the part has a large surface area, it sticks so much when cooled that it bites off chips of the glass when removing it.

>>1244968

1kg of Transparent PLA
1kg of Grey PLA
about 200g of Neon Green PLA
loose ends of red and blue PLA

I need to restock, but my current project is only using the grey

>>1245078
cant wait to see the posts where someone complains about glass exploding in their faces due to the thermal shock

>>1244586
Use one (1) shot of black PT directly into the

>>1245106

And THATS why you use borosilicate glass!

>>1245114
What percentage of glass bed users you think use borosilicate, i bet 90% cheap out and go for mirrors and shit.

>>1245115

Well, my $150 chinkshit printer came with a borosilicate glass bed... If home builders are ignoring all advice and cheaping out even more than AliExpress vendors, then they will be facing risks at all turns

>>1245108

...into the what?!?!

>>1243177
>UM3
3.600 EUR
>4K USD

LOLNO

I HAVE worked with UM2 and UM2+

They ARE good, but not worth that money

Any good print surfaces like buildtak that don't cost 50 bucks? Glue is too inconvenient and tape is even worse desu

>>1245208
hairspray

>>1245212
What brand is best?

>>1245221
No idea, just pick up something and put a lot of it on the plate, most random cans I've picked up worked. I'm using Syoss right now, no idea what countries have it. It's made by Henkel.
Hairspray is flawless for PLA but I've found that PETG takes frequent resprays, probably the residual oil from my fingers remains on the surface and ruins adhesion.

>>1245212
>hairspray

Have fun with that

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2016/11/03/teenage-boy-killed-in-3d-printer-explosion-during-school-art-pro/

Just use nice non-flammable gluestick if you need extra adhesion

>>1245345
>used three fucking canisters in a few hours
If you're that retarded, you can probably kill yourself with gluesticks too

>>1245106
Ive used both pane and mirror cut to size, pane breaks a lot but mirror it takes thermal shock pretty well.
Regardless if it break it simply cracks, it doesnt "explode"

>>1245117
Believe it or not, boro glass cut to size for a 3d printer was very expensive until recently when the chinese printer companies started mass ordering it to drive the price way down.

Boro was considered a huge upgrade to do.
In fact when the original acrylic i3 chinese kits came out, they didnt even come with glass. They told you to print directly to the heated bed. And they still cost upwards of $450 (which still undercut the wooden makerfarms which were close to $700)

>>1245383
Yeah, normally its does not explode due to thermal shock, but you are blowing air on it in this case.

I bought borosilicate glass from a local furnace builder, it was expensive af.

>>1241797
I made a prototype shell-firing bolt action out of PVC a long while back. I copied Boltsniper's FAR bolt face, then simplified and miniaturized the entire assembly to take 1/2" PVC shells.

Just got my third mini setup and printing
>>1245401
Post pics

I enjoy assembling 3d printer kits and tinkering with them, any recommendations for a cheap (under 300 usd) kit? I already have an a8 and I thought a Delta machine might be neat but idk if it's available in the price range

>>1245345
Dumbshit used three cans, put it on a desk that stored flash paper inside of it

Kid desired to die thankfully he hadn't made offspring yet so his genes didn't get passed down.

>>1245471
Why not go full DIY and self source parts and print out the required pieces

>>1245438
Here's the part that matters. The rest of it is essentially just an air tank and a sprinkler valve to fire it. She's about eight years old now. Extractor is a pair of bent heavy staples and ejector is a brass tube that has been cut and bent to have a large surface area. The breach is just the same size PVC as the outermost layer of the bolt (which is built up with sleeved pipe of increasing diameters and then drilled and pinned) with a 360 degree feed ramp carved into it with a 1/2" diameter barrel. Taggers fly out of this thing like hot fucking jesus at 40psi.

>>1245493
That sounds neat, any resources that should take a look at to get started?

>>1238454

What thickness is each sliding door?

McMaster has 1828.8mm long plastic door slides for 1/4 inch thick doors for $9.60.

>>1245617
openbuilds and the seemecnc forums should prove to be awesome help

>>1245471
Just finished putting together an Anycubic kossel kit, so far I'm really happy with it, they seem to put some effort into details and they even listen to the community and improve little quirks

I still have to calibrate it properly and get my first print, but the assembly has been a really good experience

>>1245628
Thanks, frog for your troubles

>>1244761
Inductive. LJ12A3-4-Z/BY PNP DC6-36V

Would it make sense to swap my 8mm rods for Y axis to 12mm if the rod length is 55mm? Feels prettty rigid already but I just want to make it sure.

>>1245727
Get ballscrews if you want an upgrade

>>1245732
Why in the world would you put ballscrews on a y-axis. You'd need a huge pitch too just so you don't have to rotate thousands of times to move an inch

>>1245724
What i have done, (not for a printer, and with a different inductive sensor) is i superglued aluminium foil the thing i wanted to detect. The foil is like 10-20 microns thick so its almost nothing. Then i poured epoxy on top so it would be durable, the whole thickness wasnt more than 0.1mm

Check if your sensor detects aluminium, try copper too. If it works you can do the same.

>>1245765
They should be on every axis

>>1245765
>You'd need a huge pitch too just so you don't have to rotate thousands of times to move an inch

wat?

Have you ever seen a ballscrew? They have much coarser pitches than allthread. The one on my CNC is 5mm/rev.

>>1245778
Ah. Nice idea. I need to write that one up. Fortunately a friend of mine had a good slab of 4mm aluminum to give away for the bed.

>>1245732
>>1245814
Its just that I already had 12mm linear bearings and linear rods lying around. Already started the xy-joiner print for them. Thanks anyway!

>>1244968
5 and a half in various forms of use, 1 almost empty, and 1 on the way.

If I could afford it Id have trouble finding a place to keep it all, feelsbadman.

>>1244573
Ive been able to get prints to stick to a mirror with nothing on it at all, just gotta keep it at 60-70 Celsius.

What does it feel like to not be capable of sticking something with glue? I suck sometimes but damn...

how's my first creation in structure synth
it's a bowl

>>1245958

I think it might leak

>>1246026
it's an A E S T H E T I C bowl.
Slicing this thing is a nightmare, it's literally hundreds of thousands of cubes intersecting eachother.

Just a word of warning to everyone: AstroPrint Astrobox is a huge piece of garbage. The interface is setup to allow you to control a printer from a smartphone, but when that translates to a computer monitor is means that every run-of-the-mill printing task involves 8 or 9 dialog windows before you can get to the point of actually printing a part.

You also CANNOT provide it with files from a thumbdrive plugged into the RasPi. Every file you provide to it has to be uploaded to their Cloud service, then downloaded again to the RasPi. That means you cannot use their damn device without it being connected to the internet.

I had it plugged in for less than an hour and I'm already returning the stupid thing.

End Result: Just use an actual Octoprint image

>>1245778
>What i have done, (not for a printer, and with a different inductive sensor) is i superglued aluminium foil the thing
You can buy adhesive-backed aluminum tape at the hardware store in the ductwork/hvac section

I just got a Monoprice Mini v2, and already I can't make the fucker even extrude once. I've tried sharpening the filament every which way, checking to see if the extruder is hot (it is), I'm using fresh PLA at 200-210 degrees, and yet every time I can pull the filament out and it isn't melted at all. I've tried to force the filament in in case it's caught on something, but I can't seem to make it go. Any suggestions?

I'm looking for people who have purchased the Kossel Delta full sized version.
>The one that goes for damn near $200 and gets to your house from China in about a month.
I've had one for about a year in a closet and I want to get it working for my little brother but it's a lot harder to setup than my other printers. The company instructions are shit and so is the only YouTube video on my model.

>>1246501
The problem is probably our code or your stepper motors. Check that the part that pushes the filament (the one with tons of teeth in a groove) is cleaned and properly grabbing the filament with enough pressure pushing the filament against the grooves so they can really dig in and push it.

>>1246530

The teeth grab the filament just fine, the motor feeds it in all the way down. The problem is that once the filament goes in all the way and won't go any further, nothing happens. The system says everything's heated, but nothing's coming out, even when I press on the lever and push the filament in. Nothing.

>>1246501
>>1246544
did you buy it used/refurbished or something?
there could be ABS in the nozzle

>>1246558

No, I paid full price on Amazon for a new printer.

>>1246544
Bypass your extruder, it looks like you have PTFE tube you can take off
Crank your printer to like 260C

Dip your PLA in cooking oil (like vegetable oil)
Force it by hand as hard as you can and try to get like 5-6 inches extruded out, it should work fine

Once you get the 5 inches through, turn you hotend off and forcefully rip the PLA out of the nozzle and let it cool
Try it normally after that.

I have a nasty half clog that was causing all sorts of issues for a month or so, it cleaned it right out.

>>1246466

Fuck that, thanks for the warning.

Though when a Pi is $35 and Octoprint is free, how the fuck did they think they could charge $100 for that?

>>1246575
It was SUPPOSED to be a plug-and-go Octoprint server, but they screwed the pooch and somehow made it MORE time consuming to setup and less useful once you're done.

>>1246662

Well, I wish them failure in all endeavours

>>1246570

But this is a brand-spanking-new printer. There shouldn't be *anything* in there, unless they sent me a refurb by accident. Did they?

>>1246755
Maybe they tested it, maybe its random junk that got in from the manufacturing
Who knows, but obviously something is clogged

Stick guitar stick into the nozzle from the outside while its on. Forcing PLA through it when its hot will only fix if its got ABS in it.

>>1246832
>Stick guitar stick
thin guitar string, like high E**

Also maybe complain to monoprice, because it should work out of the box. Maybe theyll send a new hotend or something

>>1246832

Something sticky was in there, like a lil bit of black goo. So was this a return that they sold at full price?

>>1246838

It could just have been a tiny chip of polystyrene or whatever from the packaging. You turning it on turned it into black goo

What kinds of tips and tricks are there for printing sharp teeth? Googling "3d printing teeth" is not helpful at all.

I've tried:
>Printing the model standing on end with the teeth horizontal
>Slicing the upper jaw off and printing it separately
>Slicing the entire head off and standing it on end by itself
>Meshmixer supports
>Custom supports

I haven't tried printing the teeth individually and gluing them back on but that sounds like such a pain

>>1247034
What are you using to print? How small are you going? With an FDM, there's going to be a point where fine details just aren't going to work; either they won't slice or they just physically can't be printed.

>>1247036
Either bog standard ABS or Form 2 gray resin at .1 mm. I'd be printing at a big enough size where either option could print the teeth just fine if they were standing straight up

But if there was a good way of supporting teeth reliably then I'd go tiny 28mm scale with the Form 2

>>1247034
Id cut out the top and bottom part of the mouth and build them so the teeths point upwards and normal to the build direction.

>>1247034

How tall is the entire Krogan gonna be?

>>1247039

0.1mm layer height or nozzle width?

With such a detailed model with that mouth gap, I'd look at PVA printed support. But if you are going for 28mm scale minatures, I'd just make the inside of the mouth solid and paint it black, with the teeth as protrusions from the black space

so yesterday I spent an hour or so fucking about with some oldish filament
seems like partwar through a print when the retraction is just so the gear that makes contact with the filament just shreds one area and the rest of my print is fucked. could this be because my filament is about a year old or is there some setting I fucked?

>>1247194
>Krogan
Good guess but wrong

I ended up printing it as-is and face down on the Form 2 and that machine never fails to deliver. I'll post a picture later after cleanup. He's all of 23 mm to the top of his tallest spike.

>>1247240
Definitely the old filament, it's become too soft and brittle to go through a Bowden after a year of absorbing water. You could try baking it (Google) but I would just buy new filament

>>1247291
yeah fuck that, I just wanted the one particular color. too much filament to be buying more right now.

First benchy ever, i guess i printed it too fast and my retractions were not long enough. the bottom and the arches look kinda fine though.

also the printer is on a shaky as fuck table

>>1247409
Seen worse, keep at it.

>>1246838
Whenever my nozzles are clogged, I take them out and just blow torch them until no more smoke comes out. Use a Q-tip to clean inside

>>1247409
did you calibrate your extruder yet?
also, maybe too hot.

I got this chinese heated aluminum plate for my printer build, and it heats up well enough but there is a pretty uneven distribution of heat over the whole surface (it's noticeably hotter on the half connected to the wiring then the other half)

Anyone have a similar experience? or should I just plan on upgrading to a silicon pad on a plate in the future

>>1247458
Pic

>>1247291
I cut off the supports but haven't bothered to do anything else yet

Anyone print stuff to sell? What do you sell, where do you sell, and what is it like? I don't need much money but I'm getting a printer to sell items that appeal to various fandoms to make a small income.

>>1247701

I've sold a few triforce things on etsy. Nerds pay too much for tat

Etsy got me best prices, ebay sold lots more but had to price cheaper. It's a good way to get some money out of your printer, but you're not going to make a living off it unless you have a full on printer farm

You could always sign up as a printer on 3D hubs - I have no experience with that though, but could be worth looking into

>>1247409
second benchy, looks considerably better.

apparently i had my thermistor attached incorrectly. there was a hole inside the hot head where you are supposed to put it, i had just keptoned it on the side of the hot head.

this means the first benchy was printed at around 230 degrees celsius on a PLA that was recommended at 175 degrees.

fixing the thermistor problem (and tuning the acceleration, jerk and speed settings (second benchy took 1 hour and 3 mins to complete))
increased the quality by a landslide

>>1236605
My CR-10 just arrived and I assembled it in 30 minutes. This thing is a fucking beast 300mm x 300mm x 400mm and the first benchy I printed out on .2mm layer height has 0 imperfections

>>1247458
you should probably check to make sure that the heating element in the bed isn't somehow severed .

http://www.3ders.org/articles/20170920-sinterit-lisa-sls-3d-printer-now-available-for-4990-euro-50-percent-less-than-before.html

Is this machine any good?

>>1248119
STOP!
You are making me buy a second printer.

Has anyone here 3D printed with PC? I am debating between using PC or nylon for a high strength filament. Also if i wanted to make a mold for silicone rubber what 3D printed material would be best?

>>1248282

>silicon molds
t. Bad Dragon

>>1248311
Actually for a hypoallergenic and durable grip. I should contact them though. They would know best.

>>1248282
The only thing silicone sticks to naturally is itself. Print with whatever you want.

Leak from prusa, supposedly it will be posted tomorrow.

He has been teasing towards this on his twitter page

>>1248230
desu I have yet to know anyone that has a sinterit but I haven't been looking.

>>1248247
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEMlNw2YhuE

>>1238395
Solid decision. Started with a Banggood kit miself, the Anet A8 for 130€. Works fine so far, but the CR10 is on my wishlist.

>>1239961
Was for me.

Sorry to bother, but I would like a software recommendation if you could. I've been using Solidworks, which is very nice, but its a mountain of features I'll never use burying everything else or get forced to use as roundabout ways to do things that seem like they should be more straightforward if it was a bit more 3D printing centered. Projecting on curved surfaces is a major pain in the ass for instance.

So yea kinda looking for a more 3D printer minded design software over Solidworks to try.

Bonus points another software for doing 2D drawings via measurements (entering sizes for lines and circles and angles like Solidworks in 2D) for use with a laser.

>>1249044
Check out onshape

>>1249101
Was looking at it, but isn't it online only and unless you are using the paid version everyone can see and take your files?

I'm actually making things for a business so while I'm a big supporter of things being open I'm also not a big fan of a years work being taken and cheaply produced by a chinese factory that could use my own work to put me out of work.

I was also looking at Fusion 360 (replaced 123Design?), but I wasn't sure how much data it tries to gather either. Don't mind going paid software either, just want to know its good before buying.

Really at a loss for finding something that functions like Solidworks 2D drawing aspects too. Inkscape seems way to freehand, without the nice grid function of being able to type in that a line should be exactly 15mm and a circle should have a specific radius.

I mean Solidworks is nice, but it has so much industrial fabrication stuff in it and sometimes you are forced to use that as a way to do something that should otherwise be easy. Reminds me of Photoshop, 9 million features and if you just want to draw you need about 20 that you have to dig to get to, but Krita fixed that for me.

>>1249109
Yeah it's online only and sadly they took away the 2 / 3 private documents allowed for the free user.

Have you taken a look at inventor for your cad solution?

Another option might be design spark mechanical.

and for the 2D stuff, I think creo sketch is still free as well as draftsight

I think for those if you start selling stuff you are going to have to pay licensing fee for them.

>>1248623
Oh god dammit. I just got a message today that my now-outdated prusa will be shipped today after ordering it back in May.