/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Put up some plywood to see how it looks. From there, insulate the walls and floor (fiberglass, carpet).

>>107331
I am assuming I would frame it with 2x4s? Has to hold up to Texas heat, winds of about 20 MPH on a regular basis, have access to back yard, and be waterproof and bug proof.

Also need to be able to heat/cool it, so thinking a window unit air conditioner and occasional space heater.

>>107338

Exterior walls are usually 6" thick, but since you live down south, 2x4's should do it. If you're worried about it holding up to wind, you dig holes and put in foundations for the walls - just 4x4 posts with concrete anchor.

For waterproofing, you can paint the plywood and staple plastic sheeting on it.

lets go at this in a logical manner, first off figure out the size by taking a tarp and enclosing some of the 2 open sides if that is fine for size when your inside it then cool lets get started.

1. your budget is going to be pretty well used.
2. its a decent amount of work
3. it will be acceptable but not great.

start off by figuring the wood needed. you have no structural load so all walls can start and end with 1 2x4 and have a stud every 16 inches. it will look like this

------------------------------------
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| | | | | | |
| | | | | | |
| | | | | | |
| | | | | | |
-----------------------------------
so no double 2x4s

so you need 2 walls. like this. square. dont worry about your angle at the top we will work on that in a bit.
your going to use 2x4x8 for studs or vertial beams and 2x4x10 or 12 for the top and bottom depending on your over all size.

2. you can either enclose the side with the extra triangle with a crap job ( ply wood) and build a ceiling or you can build a wall.( triangle ) to sit on top of the other wall. and just call your walls good

3. your outside siding, they make plywood with weather proofing on the outside. just get the cheapest stuff you can find.

4. insulation. that pink rolls of shit is fine. as for raiting just the cheapest unless the insulation matters to you. install it pink shit inwards and stable the brown paper to the 2x4s. this is done after the out side wall is up.

5. sheet rock or wood paneling. look at prices its all up to you and your going to have to learn more to do that.

6. your floor . you dont want water to come in from outside. but you dont really have a choice on this. its going to come in since its on a slab . the best you can do is build a raised floor, the worst you can do is put sealant (caulk) under the bottom of the walls you put up.

short recap in a better order
1. figure wall materials
2. build 2 walls and put them up
3. put the siding on
4. insulate then do Sheetrock or wood panel(some wood panel is really shitty and cheap)
5 figure out your floor i would suggest you build a raised floor but thats up to you.

you have a basic basic basic idea of what to do . you need to research this. and you need to make sure you can do it all before you start or you will be half way through and have a really shitty setup and no idea how to go forward and a lot of money invested.

if you can do things with your hands you can do this, you just need to research it.

go to
this old house
its a good research site.

-benjamin m

>>107338
Hmm... Well first off I'd incorporate your 4 x 4 posts into the framing. You can frame in between them and attach the studs on either side to them. Anyway, if they form a straight plane, then you could get away with 2 x 4's and have it look good - nice, straight wall. If they don't form a straight plane, you could go with 2 x 6's to get better results. Also, it'd probably be a good idea to anchor the bottom and screw off the top of each framing section a bit. Unless you don't expect very high winds. 20 mph isn't too bad, so ehh. If you want it more permanent I'd do it. Also, you want to frame your walls so you maintain a roof overhang. Don't know the code for that but 6" seems right.
Beyond that I don't know. Depends on square footage, your budget and how ugly of an appearance you can stand. You could just sheet the exterior, seal the joints up nice with silicone and paint it with an exterior paint. Doubt it would leak. As for interior you could do just about the same. Insulation would be nice as well.

>>107344
>>107349
Excellent suggestions. Thank you very much. I feel I can do this with just a bit of study...I understand things like sheet rock and the like, I was just concerned about the actual building of the walls (never done that), electrical (really don't think I need any on outside walls cause we have plugs in the brick), and siding (probably plywood).

How the hell do I attach the frame to the cement foundation? That's a concern for me.

Looks are not overly important...this it the back yard and nobody looks there except us. The inside can be made nice.

Generally, I'm a handy guy....I've replaced all the internal light fixtures in the house, some of the faucets, thermostat, etc. Also built some bookshelves. This is WAY beyond that, but I might be able to get some manual labor help for cheap (this is south Texas, I can get 20 guys in front of home depot).

Also, should I dig a trench and pour more concrete around the edges to prevent leakage, or try to figure out another drainage system?

My most recent trip shows that the 3rd 4x4 (not showin in picture) is bowing inward slightly. That makes me wonder if there isn't something wrong.

>>107358
You can use a hammer-drill to drill in anchors or a ram-set to shoot the wood to the concrete. There's also concrete screws which require a hammer drill but I've found those to be generally a pain in the ass. Not sure what would be the cheapest option. If it were me, I'd probably rent a hammer drill and go with anchors - or buy one from harbor freight.
Be mindful of how thick the slab is though. Most of the time, they form them with 2 x 4's which gives you a 3 1/2" - 4" thick slab. You want anchors/pins that won't penetrate all the way through it - an inch of concrete left below is good. With anchors that penetrate ~ 2", you could probably space them every 1 1/2 - 2 feet.

Here's a big question...how the hell do I frame for windows and a door? There needs to be a door to the back yard for letting the dog out, plus at least one window. Thinking I might also create a vent hole of some sort for a portable air conditioner, or just use the window for that....not sure.

>>107360
As long as your walls are sitting on concrete I wouldn't bother. You could add a gutter to the roof overhang which would channel most of the water away.
And, the bowing isn't a big deal. Most likely the 4 x 4 soaked up water. That makes it more pliable, which allowed the weight of the roof to bend it a bit. If you were going to leave it as an exposed porch I'd say to seal it in an oil-based stain or something.

$1500-2000?

Buy one of those premade sheds. Line the door up with the door to your house. Done, and when you don't need to use it as a bedroom type thing any longer, you have a fuckawesome shed instead of some POS you cobbled together not really giving a fuck.

Yeah yeah I know DIY, but at times even the most ardent DIYer realizes somethings aren't worth the effort (and building a room extension that you may tear down one day falls squarely in that category).

door: cut out a section of the bottom of one of the ply sheets the right size for a doggy door. install doggy door.

window vent: get old window frame/window, make hole the right size, frame it in with 2x4s

>>107393
Actually considered that but the wife nearly crapped a sofa. There is absolutely no way to convince her of that. Plus, lack of electricity, insulation, ventilation, etc etc make it virtually impossible. Trust me....it just ain't happening that way. I don't get enough tail as it is.

>>107394 I have a young child and want to put a swing set in the back yard, so access actually is pretty necessary. Fortunately, I DO have the previous door to the house, a cheapo metal door that will do. It's just a matter of figuring out framing on it.

Don't forget a building permit!

>>107389
It's pretty straightforward - just more 2 x 4's.
You do need to know the dimensions of you door and window frames first though. Once you know those, you frame the openings loose. It's been a while since I've done it, but I'd frame them ~ 3/8" large horizontally and vertically. That allows you to adjust the door and window frames with shims. Also, to do it right, you'd need to wrap the openings. Forget exactly what it's called, but basically, it's a roll of adhesive, water-proof wrapping that goes around and seals the framing in the opening. It goes over the framing and wraps inside/outside over the interior/exterior sheeting.
Then you install your door and window frames. And then install trim.
And actually, you could just go by a local residential construction site to see this stuff in person.

>>107403
umm, you can get them with wiring/insulation and the like already built in...basically a mini-house. You probably have someone ho makes them locally too, I'd keep my eyes peeled still. I bet you can surprise the hell out of your wife.

2x4 walls, 24 inches on center, r-13 insulation, pressure treated lumber for the sill, silicone the underside well, 1/2 inch plywood exterior, 1/2 inch drywall intrerior, tape and mud the joints, ta dah.

you are not capable of properly installing a window or door.
that does not mean if you do it anyways, it won't work.

>>107389
Heres a door framing. Double up your 2x4s with one under the header on each side. Use 2x8s for the header (double). For a window, just fill in the bottom part with 2x4s 16" oc like the rest of your walls. Buy your door and window first so you can make the openings the right size 1/4" bigger and use shims around the sides to square them.

You asked about fastening to the cement too. I got a cheap hammer drill for < $20 and it works great, less than renting a good one for a day. concrete anchors are the way to go.

you're going to get flooded out if you ramset or otherwise attach framing directly to that slab. I strongly suggest laying a couple courses of block before you frame anything.

>>107404

then comes the inspector, and your budget will be fucked.

>code violations!
>code violations everywhere!

>Unlawful construction within county limits. You're doing hard time in Metroplex Rehabilitation Facility One, scummer.

>>107800
>>107404
>>107794

This. My dad made an addition to the back of his house that wasn't up to code and they made him tear that shit down or face fines for as long as it was up.

>>107806
>>107806

Construction laws vary from area to area. I would look at your local laws before you do any work.

DO NOT CALL THE INSPECTION NAZIS FROM YOUR HOME PHONE! Do not give them your personal information.

I work as a handyman and see people in financial binds all the time. There are ways around codes.

Where I live for instance you can erect a temporary structure without a permit. Temporary is meant to be something that isn't tied to the ground or the house. Cinder blocks and sawzalls.

The biggest thing when you are doing these projects out of neccesity is just to keep it quiet.

You will also run into the problem of someone complaining that you are doing elder abuse by keeping your elderly family near you in whatever means your finances allow. I damn near killed myself taking care of a dying friend that no one gave a shit about. The first questions I got when he died were to see how I may have contributed to his death. Go figure.

If you stay outside of building codes and keep it quiet you could get enough plywood, two bys and insulation to make it comfortable.

Also consider trolling Craigslist for people selling building materials. Maybe even run an ad. Sometimes people get pissed at their bosses and might just be willing to show up at your place with a truckload of wood cheap. I am not advocating that just telling you how the trades sometimes work.

Good luck.

depends on where you live. i can add an addition to my house and nobody will care. i mean technically i'm probably supposed to do something or get some permit but that would just never happen.

Assume it violates some local ordinance, don't talk to neighbors too much, be friendly, pressure treated 2x4s for the base of the extension/floor. Probable $30. Hammer activated nailgun and nails/bullets to fix said 2x4s to floor, $45. 2x4 and stud rest of area for probable 45 dollars. Get 4-5 cans of that expanding foam waterproof/radonproof/etc crack/hole filler, $12. Outdoor Rated sheet woodpaneling, 40 dollars. Assemble and screw together, leaving area for cheap door recovered/ and or purchased. Make sure the floor 2x4 are spaced close enough that the plywood you will put over them holds up well, 60-100 dollars. Use foam spray along wall to seal any openings, mix with steel wool if rodents are a possibility, 8 dollars. Put plywood down for floor with short screws, again use expanding foam to cover floor. Get cheap air conditioner and put into hole you kept for it and sized for it, near an outlet/extension cord, 150 dollars. Get sample carpeting from stores and dollar stores for steps/etc and carpet that floor last, possible 30 dollars. get sheet insulation or board, use the last of your spray to seal them up well around any openings and just to insulate it all, 40 dollars. Drywall and putty walls, 200-300 if expensive. Get cheap paneling to cover walls if wanting to save expenses. Carpet, brick cozy for holding inner door open if you don't disengage the spring, and put a inflatable bed or two with collapsable frames in. 700-800 dollars total. Whooo!

here is a picture of an old one i have/used from menards for holding mounting points for walls/foundation.

Holy crap, my thread is still going. Thanks guys.

Let me ask this...would it be cheaper, easier, or more likely to pass code if I simply bricked the whole damned thing? I am assuming it would be more difficult.

I seriously doubt anyone will come inspecting. Nobody has EVER done that to this house...the neighbors did something similar to their house, nobody ever looked at it, and SOLD it that way. I live very close to Mexico, so it generally assumed people will do whatever the hell they want with their houses and there is no point to fighting that.

I have managed to secure a helper...a coworker. Construction begins Monday. I'm excited. I'll post before and after pics and let you guys know how it goes.

>>108192
its up to you. There is a risk. Mostly nowdays, the city just needs revenues from permits. They are also not that expensive in general, in my opinion.

>>108192
You're lucky about that situation in your area. Do NOT get a permit or they will be up your ass about everything. Also, make things somewhat removeable so if necessary, you could tell them it's temporary, or actually take it down if they made you. Bricking the whole thing in would be much more expensive because you still need insulation and interior walls.

Somebody above mentioned putting a couple layers of bricks on the bottom for water purposes and that may be a good idea. I don't know how much higher your cement pad is vs the ground around it, or what your water situation is. Good luck.

>>108737

>Somebody above mentioned putting a couple layers of bricks on the bottom for water purposes and that may be a good idea. I don't know how much higher your cement pad is vs the ground around it, or what your water situation is. Good luck.

This. Use solid cap block. You can actually put them together using gorilla glue rather than mortar if you want. It can be somewhat pricier than mortar but it's easier and if you haven't done masonry work before it's a lot harder to mess up. The only downside is that it degrades with UV exposure and isn't to code (neither of which should be a problem for you)

Also, I'm not sure what the ground moisture's like where you're doing this, but if your slab or faux foundation wall is going to get wet you may have water wick up through the block and into the wood portion of your wall. For a temporary structure like you're building you could use a barrier as simple as 6mil poly folded a couple of times and placed between the blocks and the sole plate. If you want you could also put heavy dabs of silicone where you anchor the sole plate to the block.

Also OP, if you wanted I could draw up a full design for you. Just give me dimensions and some pictures, and possibly explain what things are if there's anything unusual about the porch.

Just some other questions:

>Are the window ac unit and whatever heating you end up with included in the 1500-2000?

>If possible to build this so that (while probably not completely to code) it could be a permanent structure, would you want to?

>Is the roof over the porch a continuation of the rest of the roof (which it appears to be) or is it a freestanding add-on? (What I'm getting at is whether or not the roof shares attic space with the rest of your house)

>It looks like it, but can't tell from the pic cause the grass is kinda in the way, but are those 4x4's anchored into the ground or on the slab?

>Is the slab brush finished or polished?

>Probably not, but is there a gas hookup nearby that could be moved without too much hassle?

>How cold does it get where you are? If it' doesn't get to freezing you might want to go with a ac unit that has heating also, it would save a bit of hassle. If it does freeze though they won't be able to handle it.

Lastly, give me an email I can send this to you in the probable event that this thread 404's. Last time I designed something for someone (a shelf) I don't think he got it. Also he still has a bunch of extra shelf supplies waiting for him in a lowe's somewhere. Ah, well.

I think OP is a pretty cool guy. Eh kills building code requirements and doesnt afraid of anything.

Use straw for the walls, then mud it up like old adobe huts, dirt cheap!

If you are in an area where they are lax on building codes then just skip it. I would design it to be a temp structure non the less. Temp usually means not anchored to the ground and not anchored to the house.

You would be surprised what happens when you get some douchebag in the neighborhood causing trouble. I got one a couple houses over that has called the city and cops on us every chance he gets. I was told by an inside source he has done it to people so much he has been 'redflagged'.

I still see him walking around early in the morning looking for stuff to complain about.

Also one thing I have seen people do is just buy a beat up RV and park it in your spare space. Run hookups for power, water and sewer from your house. No one will ever say jack about it.

you better deliver, op

>>108765
Absolutely, any help I can get. Would love a drawn-up design. Some of my funding fell through, so that just means this project may be stretched out into a couple of months rather than being completed in a few days.

Porch is enclosed on two sides, one by brick and the other by a tool shed built as part of the house that will serve as the closet.

There are three vertical posts, 4X4, going across the longer area. These are at the edge of the foundation. Roof hangs over a bit, as you can see in the picture.

>Are the window ac unit and whatever heating you end up with included in the 1500-2000?
They aren't but I have a 10K BTU portable A/C I can use and a space heater will work just fine, as this is south Texas and it doesn't get cold...just HOT AS BALLS.
>If possible to build this so that (while probably not completely to code) it could be a permanent structure, would you want to?
Yeah, I wouldn't mind this being permanent...I can turn it into an office or game room.
>Is the roof over the porch a continuation of the rest of the roof (which it appears to be) or is it a freestanding add-on? (What I'm getting at is whether or not the roof shares attic space with the rest of your house)
It is a continuation and it does share attic space (although very little).
>It looks like it, but can't tell from the pic cause the grass is kinda in the way, but are those 4x4's anchored into the ground or on the slab?
I believe they are into the slab...I need to dig down and check out what the slab looks like (thickness).
>Is the slab brush finished or polished?
I am not sure what that means...the slab looks identical to the garage. Relatively smooth.

>>108765
>Probably not, but is there a gas hookup nearby that could be moved without too much hassle?
No gas hookups, but this house is 100% electric....gas is not common in our area.
>How cold does it get where you are? If it' doesn't get to freezing you might want to go with a ac unit that has heating also, it would save a bit of hassle. If it does freeze though they won't be able to handle it.
It gets to freezing or just below about once a year, usually for 12 hours. Average summers are around 95-110F, winters vary wildly. Today, it was 80F outside...tomorrow, it should be about 45F.

E-mail is nicktheshifter@gmail.com

Dimensions are from post to post on the long side, and from post to brick on the shot side.

110in x 83 in, 110in x 83 in, 108 in x 83 in, and short wall is 118 in x 92 in (highest) sloping down to 89 in (lowest).

>>108991
I intend to.

>>109013

Sounds good. If you could get some pics whenever that would be awesome too.

>>109013
>>109007

Also, shit son I didn't read before that you were in texas. I go there with some frequency to visit family/friends and if you happen to be near either Allen or Dallas I may be able to help you some weekend.

Its official scroton is the nicest person ever( on 4chan).

I you ever need a favor while in southern Maine I' d help you in a heart beat.

>>109082
wow that is incredibly nice of you. I am about 9 hours south of Dallas so not really worth your drive time. But thank you so much. The next time you are in the Rio Grande Valley, drop me a line so I can buy you a beer.

If your in So Cal i would be happy to donate time to help. I assisted my fam in building a large portion of our remodel. IAM 22

Sandbags and plywood

Everyone has been so nice. Thanks guys. Setback on funding...the family members who offered to help are backing out now that I am prepared to start construction. I will still be able to do it just at a slower pace, since it is my own money. May get a second job to help speed it along.

I can frame it now...do you guys think it would be a problem to leave the frame exposed for about a month or so?

Also I am in deep south Texas, so while I sincerely appreciate offers for help I think it would be too far out of the way for any of you. Pic related.

>I can frame it now...do you guys think it would be a problem to leave the frame exposed for about a month or so?

If severely wet or severely dry, maybe. For construction grade wood severely dry probably won't be an issue in USA. I don't think wetness would be an issue in your area at all. If you're in doubt, spray paint it. It's not much of a fix, but it will buy you a month of laying out in the weather.

>>109929
>>109692

Framing shouldn't take too much time, or money, so I would say you don't really have to. Just do it all at once.

Also I haven't got a chance to work on the plans yet, but I will soon. Been busy. Get me them pictures, if you can.

>>109932
I have multiple pictures....the porch needs to be cleaned off, first off. These are new pictures...will have to upload one at a time. I am going back over there tomorrow so if there is anything else you can think of, let me know.

Here's another view, different angle....really hoping I don't get flood detection or muted.

I'm really pissed...everyone in the family is resisting everything we are trying to do. They are all assholes. Pretty much, they are all upset my mother-in-law isn't dead and leaving them money.

I noticed that one of the 4x4s that are the support for the roof is cracked, and appears to be bowing out a little bit.

There is electrical in the brick so that shouldn't be an issue. Can brick be painted? Would spray paint work?

This tool shed should work just fine as closet....I just wanna fumigate it; kill any bugs.

The 4x4s seem like they are not really attached to the concrete or penetrating it.

I already have the ceiling fan and lighting fixtures I need to replace these with. Something slightly nicer and more....internal.

As you can see, the roof slants a bit.

I was going off of memory, so some of my details may have been off. Measurements are exact, though....I reconfirmed this upon going over there today. Suggestions? Where the hell do I start?

And do you guys know anywhere/way I could make a quick $1200? *crickets*

>>110220

Call contractors in your area and have them survey and submit proposals for the job. You're obviously not going to pay them but they're going to do the leg work in terms of what can be done given local codes and whether or not that overhang is going to cut it for your plan. You'll also have an extra set of eyes on the problem.

That should be your first step, bro.

>>107417
Seems workable to me. I don't like drywall, but it works. I don't know what you mean about framing "right", but doing windows and doors isn't very hard.

>>107404
Don't get permits. It's in the back of the house, they're not going to know.

>>108192
Bricks are a huge hassle and aren't cheap.

>>110206
Should be fine.

>>110220
Where you start is figuring out where you want the windows and door. You're gonna make the wall frames first. Each wall frame should be as wide as the area between the pillars, or between the pillars and the wall on the side. Those are just studboards (2x4x~93") with normal 2x4x8s on the top and bottom. I didn't look for your measurements in this side so there may be a lot of cutting to make it fir just right, but that's just how it has to be. Plan each wall section out before you make it. The stud boards should be about 24" apart, since you're not holding up the roof, really, but you don't need to be super exact if the distance covered doesn't divide evenly. To place windows and doors, have a stud board directly to the left and right of the place the thing is going, so that the space between them is equal to the width of the door/window plus half or a quarter of an inch as room for error, and (with the door) hinges. At the top of the area that should be filled, you put a horizontal 2x4 that spans the area of the gap. There should be studs spaced regularly above it. At the bottom of the area (for windows that don't reach the floor, not for doors) there should be another horizontal 2x4 there, with studs below in mirror of the top.

Thanks for more pics. I don't like the fact that the ground seems to be level with or higher than the concrete. You need to dig down around that and then if the water can naturally drain away one way or the other, fine. If not, find the lowest point of the trench and dig in a hole for a 5 gallon pail that you can put a little sump pump in.

You might also consider 16" on center for your stud walls because it's more common and most insulation you get is 15" for in between that pattern. You also need to figure out a way to insulate the roof, and the tool shed/closet to keep your cold air in.

If you can't afford the window and door right now, go to the store you like and pick out the ones you will buy, and write down the rough opeings they require. This is the tricky part of framing the walls.

>>110402
Best way I've found to insulate roofs is with styrofoam sheets. It's not imperative in a hot situation though; heat rises and you want it to rise out of your area.

Most likely, this is what I am thinking about as far as a door and window. The reason being that I would probably use a pre-hung door, and the dimensions of the one I am going to use call for a rough opening of 38 1/2" X 82 1/4"

>>110411
I am not sure how to get access to this area...the entire attic is very low and does not allow me to stand upright. I am thinking the vent there leads to the attic....I could take it out and put stuff up there if it fits through the hole. Packing peanuts? Spray-in insulation? Ideas?

>>109932
Am I too late for you, Scroton?

>>107327
> My mother-in-law recently had a brain tumor removed.
> we are having to move into her house to care for her.
> She will most likely live another 2-5 years at best.

Who stands to inherit the house after she’s gone, OP?

Because if it ain’t you and your wife, all your efforts (and the money
spent on doing it) will end up becoming somebody else’s property.

How you expect this to pass inspection?

>>110939
You're probably fine not messing with it.

>>111004
The person who inherits the house (still being paid for, btw) is the person who is caring for her disabled brother....in other words, my wife.

Wow...I actually got a $5.00 donation to help towards this. Wasn't expecting anything.

Lost you on /b/, sent this to your e-mail.

Go to Lowes or Home Depot. Sometimes they have what's called "cull lumber" packages. That's the wood, panels, etc... that have been slightly damaged in transport. Still usable just a ding or scratch here or there. I picked up a "cull" here a while back for $135.00 with a retail of $700.00. Talk to the Salvation Army, don't go to GoodWill. They are just out for your money. A lot or local churches have an alliance group for people in your situation to help. There is no shame in asking for help in a situation such as yours. Talk to the Shriners, Moose, Elks, Optimist Club, etc. Go to your local Caring Center and ask to talk to the director, they will point you in the right direction. Was her husband in the military? Go to the VFW, American Legion. Let me know how this turns out.

Peace.

Listen OP, I see a lot of people saying screw permitting and UCC on this but as a construction professional I'll pass this on:

the only thing inspectors hate more than having to actually inspect something is you not paying for your permit.

Go get a permit for an Enclosed Porch and tell them that all you're doing is closing off an existing structure with an existing roof. That way you probably won't need to submit plans and you won't need a Certificate of Occupancy. If you get caught building or residing in this addition without permitting they will not only make you tear it out but likely fine you retroactively for as long as you have been living in it. The measly ~$100 permit will be nothing compared to the cost of getting busted.

If they require you to conform to a construction schedule with staged visits you can probably get away with emailing photos. Which means you can take photos whenever you want, like before you wire the place up but after you install drywall so you don't have to pass electrical.

Also, use that box beam as a header for the outside wall and construct a 2x6 wall under it and run a 2x6 wall back to the house. if you don't make your walls 2x6 it's going to be a bitch to find an exterior pre-hung door for a 2x4 wall and you're likely only gong to save a couple bucks on lumber.

Half walls of cinder block filled with cement and rebar with wooden framing on top and screen it in at top half. Rolled up plastic sheets at top that can roll down and be fastened to keep out bad weather. Equip with electric heaters for winter.


I lived on a porch with this exact design for 6 years with no problems. This is in the Atlantic north east where winters are pretty brutal and summers are humid and nasty. I bet the whole thing will cost less than a grand.

>>111272
I see your point. The permit idea is probably a smart one. They don't need to know someone is living there.

>>111272
Inspectors won't ever find out, though. It's behind the house.

>>111454

You don't have any faggy neighbors?

>>111454

You don't obtain building permits to satisfy the government. You obtain building permits to satisfy your fucking insurance company.

>Hurr durr, when we surveyed that house originally we didn't see the addition that was damaged by the falling tree, etc. Oh you built it yourself? Well, look at our clause that requires permits and inspections for any additions you perform on your own.

The family members staying there now are trashing the place!!! I have to get in there soon. There are holes in the walls, the carpet is ruined, and every towel rack has been ripped off the walls. Also, there appears to be a mouse in the attic.

Need to move in ASAP.

>>112465
Are your family members barbarians?

>>112465

Sorry, still haven't been able to draw up the plans yet, still quite busy. I should be able to do something by the weekend. How soon are you looking to get in there? And if something was shipped to the location (building supplies) would they be safe or would your barbarian family members ransack them?

>>111515

Also, I sent an email to the email you provided me, just so you can get ahold of me if you need to.

>>112523
I told off the barbarians. They are just ghetto and have no respect for anyone else or their property. Said they need to be ready to leave when I tell them to...made them see the error of their ways. Helps I have the ability to have a sheriff remove them...

Anything shipped there is safe now...have them running scared.

I want to keep this thread alive for referencing while I am actually building. Hopefully this happens soon....completely dependent on family members helping with the money situation.

hey setup a paypal account or something. I'll chip in 10-20 bucks towards you doing this.

This thread is a very interesting read. It's nice to see people coming together and helping a guy out.

Good luck with this and do keep us updated, OP.

>>107389
when you're framing windows and doors, use a full stud (floor to ceiling) on either side of the opening, one the height of the door/window flat against that stud, and one horizontal between the two. Put one stud vertical above the opening
II_I_II
II II
^ your door is that space
don't forget to vapor barrier your insolation

>>113837
Paypal is nicktheshifter@gmail.com

Thanks man...it is greatly appreciated. There is a LOT that goes into caring for a disabled adult...let alone two! She's coming home next week.

A bump to keep it alive. Incidentally, can I paint brick? If so, how? Spray paint?

>>115120
Spray paint would probably work but I would expect an extremely janky look. If you want the best look it's going to involve cleaning and priming the wall.

>>115120
Porch paint.
>Code enforcement
Try not to have huge piles of building debris in front of your house. That's what the building inspector looks for when his dick is hard.

I suggest that if you're light on cash, you enclose that porch with tin and treated lumber. Be careful though, money saved now may be taken away in extra heating/cooling bills.

This thread is very similar to a few things I've really wanted to do for a long time - however, I wouldn't even know where to start a project like this.

Can anyone recommend a decent place to read up on this kind of thing?

Bumping again. Up with mother-in-law getting trained in her care.

>>117073
Doesn't look all too old. You sure she's only got 2-5 years?
>In b4 op lives 30 years with his mother-in-law

Not sure if mentioned before but theres also expanding spray foam insulation. little bit goes along way, might save you some money

>>109007
If you are in or near Houston OP, I will help you for free. I am not experienced in shit, but I can carry couple 2x4 no problem.

In South Texas tin is deadly, this past summer was hot as fuck, even for Texas. Paint the brick white, everything white. The pink insulation at lowes or home depot is like 10 bucks a pop. If I were you OP, I would overinsulate, since the A/C will be going all day long, which will save you money in the long run. Craigslist is a great idea, many lumberyards etc. advertise there, and I am sure many Texasbros would be willing to help you along. I would send you money, but I just dropped 600 on books for college, so instead I will offer you free labor and will search craigslist for you. Let us know where you live for more help.

>>117080
She's 60. The problem stems from the fact she cannot eat on her own, nor go to the bathroom, shower, etc so mobility is a factor. There is also a long list of possible complications from the tumor. This is going based off what we were told....it is entirely possible she could make it 10 years or more. However she may need more care than I can provide in the next couple years, so even if she lives past that, she will need assistance.

>>117119
The offer of help is awesome as well...if you live in or near the Rio Grande Valley, help would be appreciated.

>>117085
Where do I acquire this insulation in a reasonable (non-bulk) quantity for a reasonable price?

>>117610
Lowes and homedepot or craigslist. I am sorry I didn't read through the whole thread before posting. I live in Houston, and thanks to yesterday's rain I have my share of problems, but I will post links for insulation shortly.

Moving into the house today. Boy, it is BAD. Lots of little problems like holes in the wall and peeling wallpaper.

>>119638
That's a glory hole

bumping to keep alive, will be posting in a day or two

Also while I'm thinking about it, what are the dimensions of the ac and the window you plan on using? You're going to want make it a built-in rather than in-window. Do you have a window ready ready yet? I have an extra storm window, I'll have to go look at what the measurements are, but if you can find a half-decent window at a habitat for humanity store that might be cheaper and comparable energy-savings wise to having a really good window.

What days would you be at the house and able to move things if stuff was delivered? What days in the next month would you be able to work on this?

Also if you could send me your exact address on the email I gave you, that would be swell. I am sending this on your email too in case you read that first.

>>120203
you really are the nicest guy on 4chan! I emailed you.

As an update to everyone, mother-in-law comes home Friday evening. After being trained on her care, it became clear I could not work AND take care of her...had to leave my job. Really sucks but that is the nature of our situation...a series of complications.

I haven't got any polished plans made up yet, but it looks like the following (I'm also posting this to the thread so people can critique my plans or give suggestions)

We're going to be getting rid of the existing 4x4's by the time we're done; I'll have to make a temporary brace while we're working so the roof doesn't fall down on us.

The wall is going to start with a "foundation wall" of 4x8x16 cap block 2 blocks thick, except where the door is going to be; there it will be 1 block thick. This will mean that there will be a step there but it will also prevent water from coming in.

After that it will be a 2x6 stud wall (we can change that to 2x4 if you would like--it will cause a problem with the door. However we could also go with 2x4 for the long wall and 2x6 for the short wall--that would be the best of both worlds except insulation-wise) with 1 piece of vinyl trim between the sill plate and the block. I would like to go with pressure treated but that is up to you; using pressure treated will mean that you will have to use stainless steel or vinyl-coated screws to put up your drywall.


(continued)

>>120358


I looked at all the different types of siding and it seems like what makes the most sense is to just use pvc corrugated roof panels. It's far cheaper than vinyl (once you factor in the fact that you have to put sheathing up to properly install it) or any other siding (except t-111 but t-111 is crap) and it will have no maintenance. We'll silicone the joints and great stuff the top and bottom edges (on the interior inside the wall, it will be hidden) and then put the insulation up directly after that. Because of the way the dimensions on the panel work out (96"/144" x 26") they will be placed horizontally so we will have 2x4's running between the 2x6's along the horizontal seams. For the window, door and built-in ac we'll trim it out with vinyl trim. Because there's no pvc roofing trim (I'll look into vinyl siding trim and see if it will work but I doubt it) what we'll do is use the spacers they sell for the vertical sides and then simply slant the top and bottom pieces (window sill should be slanted anyway) and silicone where the roofing meets the vinyl trim (which will have to protrude slightly farther than the siding--you know, like most trim) It might look a bit funny but it will be weather-proof.

(continued)

>>120359

Another thing I think is worth doing is dealing with the issue of drainage around the concrete slab. I have successfully fixed drainage issues in the past by simply digging out a wide trench, filling it with gravel and putting cap block held in place by concrete as a landscape divider (to prevent the surrounding ground from sinking into the gravel) I don't know what the soil where you are is like, though, so that will be your call. We may have to go further and add perf pipe and do a full french drain, or it may not be an issue.

If we do this ~4 weeks as planned out I should be able to come down there and also provide the block, gravel (if you think a french drain is necessary), wood, vinyl trim, gorilla glue/construction adhesive, paint/primer for the concrete block, the pvc roof panels, the materials required to trim/seal the pvc roof panels and also all fasteners (stainless SPAX--they're a great screw and if you're reading this you should go look them up) and sealing washers. You will have to get everything else, including drywall and windows/door. Once we have a final plan I should be able to tell you what else you will need to buy. If you want to, I can purchase bulky items we know we'll need that you'll have to buy (like drywall) and have them delivered at the same time as the other items; it's a flat fee for truck delivery so it might save you time (especially if you don't have a truck) and you can just pay me back once I get there.

>>120360

Also: I forgot to mention this earlier but because the pvc panels won't be supported as uniformly as vinyl or other panel siding would be, they will be a little bit more susceptible to piercing damage. You'll still be able to lean against the exterior wall or lean things against it just fine though. So unless people regularly attack your house with spears you should be fine.

Also if anyone is reading this and they have any critiques of my plans please speak up; I'd rather have any problems pointed out now than have OP find out about them later.

(Also I know humidity might be an issue; in an email with OP earlier I already suggested having a self-pumping dehumidifier in the room because moisture can be a concern with add-ons. It doesn't seem like it would be as big a deal because the porch already shares attic space with the rest of the house but just in case.)