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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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1184621 No.1184621 [Reply] [Original]

Anybody do any body work here? Haven't done much myself, but I'm restoring an old farm truck that's got some rotted rust holes, looking for suggestions for a decent MIG welder that won't break the bank and get the patchwork done. Thoughts on Harbor Freight or others?

Was looking at this one

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/81540/10002/-1

Also tacking an aftermarket 3 inch exhaust together. Backup parts and enough wire to do the job, I wanna say budget is around $300-350 since it's not a regular thing, but willing to fork out a bit more if absolutely necessary. Have gloves, brushes, and clamps to start.

>> No.1184624

>>1184621
Good, cheap, new. Pick two.

>> No.1184625

>>1184624
Good and cheap then. Not doing any structural stuff, just doing 1/4 tops

>> No.1184626
File: 87 KB, 800x451, IMG_20160918_185754712-L.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1184626

>>1184624
This.

Check craigslist for something used.

Nicer units (Miler/Lincoln) offer features like multi-voltage plugs and better duty cycle ratings.
But a basic garage-sale buzz box will generally get things done to an acceptable level, if you're just looking to make two pieces of metal stick to each other.

Also, might consider TIG instead. Does a lot better for thin sheet metal.
A lot more expensive too, unfortunately.

>> No.1184632

>>1184626
I was looking into a Lincoln, I've used one before and it seemed like it was smooth as butter. Not the best at mating metal, nor do I admittedly know the specifics, but it worked for what I needed it for just knowing the gist (making a leveling bracket for an engine hoist). I'd buy a used unit no problem, as long as it can be confirmed it works...but not a lot of people sell those kinds of tools around where I'm at, so new would be the most surefire way to go for now

>> No.1184633

>>1184621
That example of yours gives a 10% duty cycle on 70A!
Acording to this
https://www.millerwelds.com/resources/weld-setting-calculators/mig-solid-core-welding-calculator
6mm (approx 1/4inch) needs an amperage rate of 180-210. It means that you can forget welding anything thicker than sheep metal with that example of yours.

I have said this before and will say again. Used professional equipment.
My old ESAB Smashweld 250 had a duty cycle of 100% up to almost 200A if I remember correctly. Bought if in working condition for 400€ (approx, it was a long time ago). I broke it by dropping it out from my van :/.
Then I bought a 400A old norwegian quality machine, water cooled and shit. Price, 50€. Gave it some love and new parts for 150€ and now it works flawlessly. It needs 3*25A main breakers so I can't even run it on full juice! The ~3 phase outlet I have at home is just 3*10A, which is just 10kW so no real welding at home.

Keep your eyes open and every now and then hang out on forums and local selling sites. Better, but rarer, deals in smaller communities.

>> No.1184638

>>1184633
Sounds like a pretty sweet setup for the price. Shame it broke though. I ran the numbers and got the same results. I guess i can forget about 130 bucks to properly patch up body panels. I'd there anything you might know about that can run out of a regular outlet that's a decent price then(other than your setup you mentioned)? Not trying to be cheap, this is for restoration and hobbyist work, not an actual customer job.

>> No.1184644

>>1184626
about how much is a tank of Tig gas anyway?

>> No.1184650

>>1184644
Check local prices at your welding gas suppliers for different size argon cylinders. I prefer to own my cylinders so I got (very) good at buying them used. That way I can exchange them for fills but not pay leasing.

You really should visit real welding forums like Weldingweb and the Miller forums. I keep posting this advice because /diy/ a shit given the depth and breadth of info available from dedicated forums.

For working on autos a small MIG machine is most versatile which is why auto body shops use them. A 180 amp MIG will cover most hobbyist needs.

Now go here and start reading. It's noob friendly but like anywhere they expect people to lurk and read then post intelligent questions.

http://weldingweb.com/forum.php

>> No.1184729

>>1184621
>I wanna say budget is around $300-350 since it's not a regular thing
http://www.eastwood.com/mig-welder-110vac-135a-output.html
This is what I have and it has worked well so far. I did my homework before I bought it and I couldn't find any other machine with the same features in the price range. Infinite voltage adjustment and spool gun ready. 1/4" is pushing its limits but it will weld it with flux core no problem, so order knurled drive rolls with it if you plan on using flux core.

>> No.1184738

>>1184729
This looks like a bad ass little box! I'll check out some reviews on it and just might consider buying it. Not to flip the bird to everyone else, all the input here has been a little bit helpful, but that looks like it's be perfect for just some body panels!

>> No.1184794
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1184794

>>1184621

Automotive youtubers like DarkDragonWing and ChrisFix use this Chicago Electric model, it seems to be around the same price as that JEGS one.

https://www.amazon.com/Chicago-Electric-Welding-Systems-Welder/dp/B006ZB9DJM/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&srs=3020709011&ie=UTF8&qid=1496080340&sr=1-5

>> No.1184799

>>1184794

Oh, and here are the videos of it in use.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HiBAV1BEUdY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qp9L00SMSHQ

>> No.1184808

>>1184621
You ain't gonna get an acceptable MIG welder for that budget, man. Trust me, I stick pieces of metal together for a living.
Either get a stick welder and git gud or save more money and look into used hobarts and such.

>> No.1184819

>>1184808
My main question about your statement I guess would be, are you going off of company tools, or are you speaking from a hobbyist point of view? Kinda like comparing Snap-on and Craftsman, they're both tools and generally do the job. Not questioning your experience, but if I just need a lower powered welder, what're the benefits, besides being more flexible?

>> No.1184821

>>1184794
I've seen those in action and they seem to work pretty well. I've watched some of ChrisFix's stuff, and he's not an idiot. I'd ask the folks at HF where they sell em, but they're not the brightest people around...

>> No.1184845

>>1184638
Can't really help you as I live across the pond. Proper tools are called kemppi, esab, Wallis, migtronic and the like. Yours probably differ. Also shit runs on three phase here so powerful welding machines in the 300-600€ category are quite common.

I second >>1184808 here. New machines in your price range are good for thin metals. Used bigger machines can be tricky to buy if you don't know the scene but usually they deliver. Not always though.
I don't know what kind of voltages and phasing industrial surroundings uses in your area but those are what I aim for. As every building over here has a 3~ plug somewhere it's easy to buy used industrial equipment, you know its always going to run at your home also. I don't know if the case is the same where you live so can't really recommend.

>> No.1185003

>>1184819
if you ONLY want to do car body and exhaust tubes, a tiny mig is fine! in a hobbyist setting it doesn't even need to be a good one, really.

but here's the deal: a ~200amp mig does the thin stuff, but can also handle the bigger auto jobs like frame rail patches, sticking nuts to busted locking lugs, and general fabricating up to about .250 wall. it would have better consumables/spares availability, more reliable wire feed, a better torch, finer speed control, more voltage steps, and a place to chain up your gas bottle safely.

buy once, cry once.

>> No.1185724

>>1185003
>but here's the deal: a ~200amp mig does the thin stuff, but can also handle the bigger auto jobs
It can, but most US household have one V220 single phase set up for the clothes dryer. The advantage of the low power 100v unit is that you can tote it around, use is almost anywhere and get decent results.

>> No.1185796

>>1185003
>buy once, cry once.
I agree. It's so annoying to have underpowered tools. It won't take long until you notice that you'd have some other stuff you could weld. If just your machine would allow it...

>>1185724
>most US household have one V220 single phase set up for the clothes dryer.
Just out of curiosity, how is the power drlivered over the US to houses? Over here we have a 20kV-volt lines that feeds the 400V transformers. From these low voltage transformers you buy a line to your house which is 3~. And you basically can choose how many amps' main breakers you want, starting from 3*25A.
This 3~ can be split to 3*220V and these power the home appliances, usually with a 10A or 16A breaker. In the main panel there is always also one 3~ output if the panel is even remotely new.

I really have never understood how power is delivered in a 110V system? Is it by a 220V 2~line or what? How is power delivered in the main grid, where the voltage is in kilovolts? Please explain this to me if someone is (and I am sure someone is) cunning in the north American electrical system?.

>> No.1185808
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1185808

When I had my mk3 jetta diesel, I bought a cheap flux core welder to fix various holes. It was 120$ (CAD), and given that the car was only worth about 1000$ it did a pretty good job. in all I did about 40 patches, covered them in POR15 and sealed around them with this automotive seam glue.

RIP buddy

>> No.1185822
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1185822

>>1185724
Yeah, it's basically impossible to run 240v in a residential setting without sacrificing your dryer circuit.

>> No.1185823

>>1185796
You don't get 110v service. Its 220/240 to the house. 110/120 uses 1 side of the ac current and the neutral, 220 outlets use both.

>> No.1185829

>>1185796
>Just out of curiosity, how is the power drlivered over the US to houses?

Exact same way, except the transformer only delivers 240V single-phase to the house. This is also center-tapped, which is where you get the two 120V legs 180° out of phase.

Sucks, because it means you can't run industrial equipment without a phase converter. On the other side of that same coin, however, used industrial equipment is dirt cheap because nobody is wise to the fact that getting 3-phase out of single isn't that expensive. Turn a large 3-phase motor into a rotary phase converter and you have access to a not-quite-free supply of high-power 3-phase tooling.

>> No.1185834

>>1184626
Why are you suggesting TIG for working on old rusty shit? It blows up in your face if the steel is not 100% clean. Would not recommend.

>> No.1185838

>>1185822
you know that is the neatest (USA) board i have ever seen. congrats.

>> No.1185842

>>1185838
Why so much exposed wire by the screw terminals on the right tho?

>> No.1185895

>>1185842
Because ground wires are often bare copper?