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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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File: 353 KB, 720x1280, tmp_19405-IMG_20170323_132847478121012.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1149707 No.1149707 [Reply] [Original]

What kind of drill do I need for these pesky bastards?

>> No.1149713

A HILTI™ SF 10W-A ATC

>> No.1149716

>>1149713
Will a $20 Walmart cordless drill work?

>> No.1149717

>>1149716
No, it specifically has to be a HILTI™ SF 10W-A ATC

>> No.1149718

>>1149707
What's the problem? The washer part is spinning in the hole? Grab it with vice grips and drill baby drill.

>> No.1149719

>>1149718
The problem is I don't have a drill, wondering if power matters much, need a cordless so I can grab a new window regulator from the junkyard.

I'll be using a 1/4 " titanium drill bit, does power/wattage matter any?

>> No.1149722

>>1149719
HILTI™

>> No.1149727

>>1149722
Is the TE7C really worth the extra 200 over the TE3C? I trust the 7 to handle bigger bits but i've always liked the speed of the 2, and the 3 just seems like a chipping variant.

Also OP you need to tack weld a better head on that or just burn it out

>> No.1149761

>>1149707
wtf am I looking at?

>> No.1149768

>>1149761
Rivets holding a window regulator in place

>> No.1149772

>>1149768
what goddamn manufacturer rivets a replaceable part like a window regulator?

>> No.1149782

>>1149772
Chevrolet

>> No.1149784
File: 25 KB, 430x208, rivet_blind_art.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1149784

>>1149707
they're only pop rivets, any drill motor will work.
take a pin punch and doink the leftover bit of stem out, then drill into the head with a regular HSS twist drillbit that's bigger than the hole but smaller than the head.

>> No.1149786

>>1149719
Use a bit just slightly bigger than the hole it goes through.
Any ol' cheap drill is fine, and for small holes power isn't really a factor.
Variable speed is helpful but not really required for small holes either

You could also grind the heads off if you can get a wheel to it.
Might be able to cut them off with a chisel at the junkyard

>> No.1149787

I've done a shitload of salvage work for myself and my bros shop.

I slice rivets off using a sharp chisel held in visegrips (I see no reason to risk my fingers). I also have a variety of chisels with pieces of rod or rebar welder to the shanks at different angles as handles.

A manual or cordless drill will drill them after you tap the center shanks out. Smaller high RPM drills preferred for small rivets. Cheap is fine.

On rivets like the bottom one if I can pinch the head with a visegrip (preferably with nice unworn jaw tips) I sometimes crush the head and rock the rivet out.

Sidecutters also work for rocking or cutting pop rivets if you can get under them.

Long heavy duty screwdrivers can be sharpened (Dremel or grinder or whatever ya have) and used as a long reach light duty chisel.

Happy picking! I used to carry a backpack full of tools and a couple of cargo straps to my you pull it salvage when they had 50 and 75 dollar all you can drag days. I got eight lug rear ends and cast iron manual transmissions that way. Hook strap to load, wrap around waist and start walking.

I get erect just thinking of salvage.

>> No.1149796

>>1149787
Why so many lugs and transmissions? Do you fix a lot of cars?

>> No.1149824

>>1149796
I fixed a lot of trucks and at the time assembled an F250 frame with F350 running gear under a '76 F100 cab (clean shape, cheap insurance). Still have it with a 460/C6 out of a Lincoln and a Holmes 440 wrecker boom.

Trucks are like Legos with wheels. I worked making one out of two or three at my bros used car lot (common practice, get good body from a frame hit and good frame from a rollover) and got pretty quick at it. Did many cars too.

Eight lug full floater rears are handy to make heavy duty trailer axles too. I even made a slip axle recently to move my shipping container where the Landoll delivering it could not go.

Trucks get shit mileage anyway so I prefer heavy duty brakes and running gear.

>> No.1149858

>>1149787
>I got eight lug rear ends and cast iron manual transmissions that way.
>>1149796
>Why so many lugs?
eight lugs refers to the number of lug bolts on the hub - not the number of differentials.
rear ends are also identified by the number of bolts on the cover
>and transmissions?
cast iron transmissions are getting more difficult to find and sell at a premiim- they are generally tougher than cast aluminum ones - get'em while you can

>> No.1149931

what 3rd world country do you live in OP

>> No.1149959

>>1149931
The USA, however in a shitty desert as you can probably tell

>> No.1150172
File: 76 KB, 600x337, cut-off-wheel-2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1150172

>>1149707
I just use a whiz wheel. Use it like a mobile bench grinder and shave the thing flat. It's soft enough so it will take a few seconds.

>> No.1150180

>>1149772
'Merican manufacturers love rivets

>> No.1150283
File: 24 KB, 397x306, ce5d78003f560c5600aee57f39b367e8.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1150283

>>1150172
>cut-off-wheel-2.jpg

blade guard = sissy

>> No.1150356

>>1150283
lol, that's not mine. I just googled for a pic real quick. funny thing is I get shit from coworkers for taking that shit off of there. it just gets in the way and probably causes more danger.

>> No.1150392
File: 19 KB, 400x400, Mine_Is_Actually_A_Mac.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1150392

>>1149707
>What kind of drill do I need for these pesky bastards?

NONE. The absolute best way to remove these rivets(generally used on window regulators) is to use a pneumatic straight grinder with a carbide burr and remove most of the head of the rivet. Now use a punch(that's the same size as the stud, which is also the same size as the drilled hole) and pop it out. I've serviced hundreds(possibly thousands) of regulators and tried ever method and this is the best.

>> No.1150569

>>1150392
This is great, too. I only said cut off wheel because he was probably more likely to have a whiz wheel than those bits. The drill idea sucks, it just starts to spin in there and doesn't drill. Other guy said chisel, which woul work but i think grinding it off is faster and you dont have to hammer the door with the glass in it

>> No.1151241

>>1150392
>best way to remove these rivetsis to use a pneumatic straight grinder with a carbide burr and remove most of the head of the rivet. Now use a punch and pop it out.
>>1150569
>This is great

I agree. This is the best method.

>>1150569
>The drill idea sucks, it just starts to spin in there and doesn't drill

Yep

>>1150569
>Other guy said chisel,

The impacts from the hammer can cause whatever else is attached to break apart also. Plus the center of the rivets is very hard and when you're trying to chisel the rivets out you will distort/destroy the hole the rivet is going thru.

>> No.1151245

>>1150356
......they look at you weird because by removing it you are sacrificing safety for your company

>> No.1151263

Any drill will do

>> No.1151288

>>1151245
Could be production pay

>> No.1151300
File: 25 KB, 430x424, use drill at an angle.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1151300

>>1150569
>The drill idea sucks, it just starts to spin in there and doesn't drill.

I've drilled out hundreds of pop rivets with ease.
Hold the drill at an angle. It may spin some but it still cuts and comes right off.
Once the head is off, use a punch to push the shaft through to the back.

>> No.1152467

>>1151300
>Hold the drill at an angle. It may spin some but it still cuts and comes right off.

The type of rivet pictured has a metal core that is harder and thicker than the metal it is going thru. If you keep spinning the rivet it will succeed in making the hole in the panel even bigger and causing more damage.

This is a good idea
>>1150392

And this tools
>>1150172
works as well if you decide to cut an "X" groove into the top and drive it out

>> No.1152473

>>1149707
I use a Dremel with a cut off wheel. Drills almost always just make rivets spin without going in.

>> No.1152486

>>1152467
>The type of rivet pictured has a metal core that is harder and thicker than the metal it is going thru. If you keep spinning the rivet it will succeed in making the hole in the panel even bigger and causing more damage.

OP's pictures shows exactly that with the bottom rivet

>> No.1152499

>>1150392
Also if you can't get compressed air out in the salvage yard you can chuck a bur or a small diamond coated grinding wheel in a cordless drill.