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2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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1149627 No.1149627 [Reply] [Original]

Fucking Nielsen broke the door on our TV.
The peg on the left side is nowhere to be found.
What's the best way to fabricate a new one?

>> No.1149642

>>1149627
how old is this thing?

jbweld a piece of ~14 gauge solid copper wire to that post on the left in the same position as the stub on the right

>> No.1149673

>>1149627
I'm guessing Sony?- see, this the problem with TVs nowadays, not enough flimsy plastic doors which break by looking at them, or superfluous manual adjustments enough to fuck up your picture beyond all hope of viewable redemption. How is living in 1982 anyway, OP?

>> No.1149712

>>1149642
Sounds good. The problem is, the part of the post where the peg connects is missing as well. So now I need something to approximate that. Label says May 1989.

>>1149673
Magnavox.

>> No.1149953

>>1149627
>fucking neilson
Then tell them to fix it

>> No.1150089

>>1149627
check if it's symmetrical so that both pegs are the same, just mirrored. If it is, you've got your measurement right there.

>> No.1150116

>>1149627
when did you last adjust these settings? glue it back on who cares.

>> No.1150140
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1150140

>>1150116
Slap of duct tape over it. Fuck the door. Get on the floor

>> No.1150144

>>1149673
yeah, i'd way rather have a smart tv whisking all my data off to China instead of a plastic door that breaks after 28 years of use.

>> No.1150155

>>1150144
its a not entirely invalid point you have there, desu. But 28 years of a 150-250W? usage CRT, vs prob 40-65W LCD with standby etc, that probably mounts up some. I take you ain't big on HD sports or stuff either.. but, long may your caps hold.

The SMART fuckers, manual set their IP to 0.0.0.0 - and even I draw the line at any model with an inbuilt mic, like, fuck that.

>> No.1150160

>>1150155
>but, long may your caps hold.

that's another point. The 28 year old TV is user repairable with any decent soldering iron. The components are huge and the boards are often hand-made, so there is much room to manipulate.

Reflowing or replacement of SMD/SMT components on new hardware is above the paygrade of even most savvy consumers.

Sure, you could blackhole it on the network, but then that cripples almost all of the features on the thing. Many smart TVs will hardly work without connection.

You have a point about power consumption ; and that makes me yearn for an industry trend of non-smart TVs with new hardware and technology, but I think that boat has sailed.

As for standby power usage : power strip. Old TVs have no data to lose when you unplug them, and they surely can't produce a standby drain when disconnected. Sounds like a power-strip is the superior choice in that regard.

>> No.1150377

>>1149627
for repairing laptops with broken plastic parts i have used 3d pen's or just get old zip-tie's and a 30w soldering iron to manually "weld" plastic parts.

>> No.1150390

>>1150144
>Smart TV whisking all my data off to china
Dude, you know you can lock your TV out of your router, right?

>> No.1150411

>>1150160
>that makes me yearn for an industry trend of non-smart TVs with new hardware and technology, but I think that boat has sailed.
Just have to look around. RCA made 4k dumb tvs for a while. Found mine on sale as they weren't selling as well as the more expensive smart version.

>> No.1150420
File: 46 KB, 450x332, scale container.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1150420

>>1150160
>not going full /diy/nosaur
I'd take your CRT television, dump the CRT side of the board, get an LCD from a computer or TV, get the LCD driver board from china, and fuck about with analogue and video internal cable formats and their respective adapters until it works. You get decent power usage, a user-serviceable board, and no botnet. Even better if you put a microcontroller in it and programme it with smart offline features. Hook it up to your home automation server if you swing that way. Bonus points for building your own board, and even more if you make a mockup tiny shipping container for the whole assembly to fit inside.

>> No.1150440
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1150440

>>1150390
and then I get smart tv UI-lag with no smart tv features.

>>1150411
only decent panels I find without smart features now are speakerless computer monitors.

>>1150420
>i'll insert the botnet MYSELF!

can't I just watch TV?

>> No.1150455
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1150455

As luck would have it, I found a screw which lines up with the tab, and matches the old peg's position and diameter perfectly.

One dab of Loctite later and it's good to go.

>> No.1150457
File: 218 KB, 1024x768, IMG_0121.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1150457

>>1150455
And the unit is once again complete!

>> No.1150463

>>1150420
cute ;) - the container, that is, not you.

>>1150440
eh.. actually, cant speak for anyone else, but, couldnt tell you the difference between my SMART TV being net-connected, or not. A lot of the stuff it gets OTA (program guides, etc.), not internet, the rest, ludicrous apps and bullshit, absolutely no fucker ever uses anyway. The only time I connect it to anything is when I want to use it for watching something on laptop, and that v. seldom - even then, could probably limit to local LAN only. There is actually little to no reason for connecting the fuckers at all, far as I can see - internet/email browsing, on a TV? - nope, ta, not even with a proper keyboard and shit, is painful. tldr, not connecting your SMART does not disable, it actually dont, IME; really make a fuck worth of difference in day-to-day use, honestly. But you sorted now anyway ;)

>> No.1150473

>>1150457
Actually that looks pretty nice, especially next to your wooden furniture. You should keep it.

>> No.1150481

>>1150473
Thanks.

We intend to. It's still got plenty of life.