/diy/ - Do It Yourself

why does repeiter move my X-Axis after I homing all axises and then manually move my Z axis

>>1127320
Endstop adjustment, if you have a delta. M503/look at your config. If you have a probe then you may have a script set up to automatically adjust it for you. Does it affect your first layer?

>>1127321
no but it's annoying as hell since it takes an extra 5-10 seconds to level my bed. i got an anet a8

>>1127322
Double check your config/eprom for endstop adjustments. Also, double check your machine settings in repeiter to see if the homing settings/machine size is correct.

Are there any good examples of a highly detailed object captured by photogrammetry? I thought photogrammetry was only good for relatively flat objects and wouldn't reproduce the geoemtry properly

>>1127298
phone holder wall socket plate.
rate it

>>1127338

So I've been using Hatchbox PLA a lot lately with great success. Miles better than the other off brand I tried when I first started.

How is eSun? I like Hatchbox but a lot of stuff goes out of stock often.

>>1127338
9/10 design
2/10 concept
get a longer charger cord if this is a problem lol

>>1127359
I liked his idea. Keeps the phone off the floor without wasting shelf space or having cords everywhere.

>>1127367
>2017
>Wasting shelf space

Like your ikea furniture would hold up under the weight of an iPhone.

>>1127343
Has Hatchboxes' lime green PLA dropped back down to reasonable prices yet? Last I saw, all the colors I wanted were $30+.

>>1127372
I like things rather minimalist. I also hate phone notification or any other light at night so I could face that fucker into the wall. That said I just realized if it sticks out I'ld probably bang my leg into and break it.

>>1127376
Sadly no. Their purple is a bitch to get as well and anything transparent. I need to build a storage box so I can just stock up and swap out at will without the worry of it going brittle.

So all metal hotend ya or nah? I mostly use PLA, I don't care for ABS, but I'm interested in other materials just not sure what I would use them for.

Whats wrong with muh benchy?

>>1127404
Measure your filament with a caliper and get the exact diameter. Not all filament is 1.75. Looks like you're extruding a bit too much.

>>1127400
all metals are more finicky with PLA
If you dont have a real reason to, go the cheaper route and get the lite 6

>>1127417
Think I may just get a plated one for printing glow in the dark or something then. I thought all metal was only really an issue when swapping materials?

I was just curious on exploring HIPS and PETG. PETG seems useful, but I don't know shit beyond ABS and PLA.

>>1127404
inconsistent filament diameter

>>1127410
>>1127422
Thanks.

I suppose it's a good thing that I'm achieving more obscure problems over 'lol wtf my printer exploded' tier problems

Feels good man

>>1127298
Tfw your shit tier voronoi pen holder makes it into the op image
:)

http://s.aliexpress.com/vQ7zyiQZ
It's so cheap.
Do you think it works?

>>1127452
Its just like every other cheap e3d clone out there.
Youll have people saying it worked great, then youll have people with horror stories.

The quality control is nonexistant.
You can buy an identical clone on ebay from the USA for like 15$ and not have to wait over a month to get it from aliexpress.

IMO, if you are going to buy an all metal hotend to push past 300c for expensive exotic filament, you shouldnt be buying a chinese clone hotends anyways. You would have to buy a thermocouple and upgrade it anyways because the thermistor it comes with wont take the heat.

And if you arent pushing over 300c, you should just buy a PTFE lined hotend which are much less finicky.

You can buy a genuine E3D lite 6 for $34 shipping from Filastruder. Filastruder is the only official E3D supplier in the USA.
Support the small companies that are actively designing stuff, not the chinese factories that are cloning it.

>>1127464
>USA USA USA
I'm in Sweden.
Shipping from anywhere but China or locally is just unreasonably expensive. And then there's tax.
>qc is nonexistent
Thing is I can probably get 10 of these for the same price of one original version.
I'm mainly asking for if there's something they generally don't give
>PTFE lined hotend
Haven't hear of those. Less finicky sounds good.

>>1127452

I'm getting tired of people linking to aliexpress 3d printer crap such as Prusa i3 and E3D clones and asking if it's good. No, it's not good, it's crap. You're free to buy that stuff, just don't expect other people to stand by that decision as a good one.

>>1127473
>"do you think it works?"
I wasn't expecting quality anon. But yes I do agree that people sometimes come across as asking people if they think China delivers quality cheaply. I don't think that was the case here.

>>1127477

Yeah, but "do you think it works" is kind of like asking what's in the mystery box... There's good chinese clones, then there's chinese clones of those good chinese clones... I'd say plexiglass i3s are a good example of a 2nd-iteration badness. You never know if the corners being cut can be lived with or not until you get it.

About those E3D clones, most of what i've heard is that the heatbreak bore has a bad finish (isn't smooth enough), leading up to clogs. The way some sellers have worked around that issue is by using PTFE liners instead. Which makes the hotend is closer to an E3D-lite and kinda defeats the whole point of an all-metal hotend, but maybe it works for some people... Sounds more like a band-aid to me.

>>1127452
I use one of these and it works normally. No guarantee you'll be getting the exact same model as me though, but with that price, you might as well give it a try.

>>1127383
>>1127359
anon that posted it here, so my first issue is that i don't have a desk beside my bed so my phone is just be on my floor at night. also regarding the thing about it sticking out, the iphone usb power brick sticks out way more from the plug than this does.

>>1127470
Good luck with your islamization bruh

>>1127338
>>1127565
How do you plan to print this? On the back with a lot of support material? Or on the top, so it will be all wobbly, because the walls are so thin?
If you don't have a desk to put your phone on, just print a small desk, so you can put your phone on it.

>>1127383
I really don't get why they jacked up the prices on everything. Their PLA isn't anything remarkable, and for $20 it was nice but for $30 it's overkill. It sucks. FWIW, I got purple from a company called "SIENOC" but the listing was either changed or removed so I can't send you the link.

>going brittle
I actually have this problem with the end of my green spool and forget what it's caused by - can someone remind me?

>>1127338
no AESTHETIC
slot too shallow
slot too close to wall
doesn't take into account printability
horizontal bar not functional unless you slot in the phone diagonally like a diamond in which case NO AESTHETIC

>>1127599
my school gives me full access to about 2 million dollars worth of 3d printers. i could print it in metal if i wanted to. they have a printer with disolvable filament for supports and they're super chill about letting students use them.

>>1127624
slot is designed for my iphone dimensions, if i wanted to i'd go for a bigger slot but i didn't want to. also it's close to the wall so i don't kick it off, in which case if i did kick it, that beam would at least help a little bit from the rib just snapping off.

i'm more of a function > A E S T H E T I C kind of person.

>>1127599
also i could have a desk beside my bed, but it's in the corner of my room, and i need to pull my bed out to make it. a desk would just be in the way of this.

ayyy lmao

>>1127298
So I ordered the duplicator i3 v2.1 over a month ago and I still haven't received. The filament just came in and when I asked wheres the printer they told me it would ship in the next 2 weeks.
I kinda feel like I was scammed.

>>1127647
Static electricity; press the knob and it goes away. AFAIK doesn't affect function - at least on mine.

Electronics guys, I bought a shitty RAMPS off amazon. The MOSFET on the heated bed 11A line immediately burned up. I bought a good quality, recommended one (IRF3708) and soldered that in, as well as switching the 11A polyfuse that constantly trips during use (the bed apparently can draw like 12-13 amps sometimes) with a 15A regular fuse. New fuse seems to be doing its job. I have all sorts of breakers and fuses on my mains electricity that I think it's fine to have a 15A fuse.

When I point a 40mm fan straight at the mosfet during heated bed heatup I can maintain around a 90C temperature. There's no heatsink on the mosfet currently. Is that an okay temp? Also without the fan it climbed up to 200C before I killed the power so it definitely needs some cooling. Question is how effective is a heatsink on a mosfet? I'd like it not to catch fire if a fan isn't pointing at it an inch away or the fan dies for some reason down the line. Can I expect the temps to safe and stable with a heatsink on?

>>1127718

Here, arm yourself with *knaledge* - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ND8uJWlOgIQ

To summarize, the IRF3708 is not at all a good MOSFET for a heatbed, especially at 15A. You can use the formula from that video:

Drain-to-Source on resistance is listed as roughly 13.5mΩ when drawing 12A, and about 12mΩ@15A

This gives you 0.0135*(12^2)= 1.944W when drawing 12A, and:
0.0120*(15^2) = 2.7W @ 15A. (note how since the current is squared, the power rises exponentially)

Datasheet lists a temperature of 65C-per-watt at junction-to-ambient, aka "with no heatsink" which totals to a 126C increase in temperature at 12A and 176C when drawing 15A! I'd say it matches up pretty close to the real-world readings you're getting.

Try an IRF1404 instead - with an Rds(on) of a mere 4mΩ you will only get about a watt @15A, and with the same 65C-per-watt junction-to-ambient characteristic it will only get to about 80-90C tops when running at full blast with no heatsink.

>>1127636
Function and aesthetics aren't mutually exclusive

"Gosh, the bed on my flashforge is really loose, it's been giving me major leveling problems"


granted, it didn't fix the extruder-sag issue. I wonder if I can get stronger 8mm linear motion rods. Dual-extruders weight a lot. Probably will just print a single-extruder converter for now.

RIP tiko, too bad you trashed every 3d printing community out there.

>>1127599
>just print a small desk, so you can put your phone on it
genius

>>1127794

still got a lot more of their lies to go through, but some great laughs

>>1127794
Lol it took an intern to spill the beans for them to provide an update in the comments 18 hours later.

I seriously question their initial business decision on profiting purely on IP protection when they had and have no IP worth protecting. FDM hit its limit a couple years ago and I don't see a clear future for the technology. I guess that's what happens when a group of business students attempt to start a technology company.

>>1127826
Pretty damn funny, and yeah FDM hit its limits quite some time ago, the biggest advancements would be once heated build enclosures come off patents. The rest is just multi extruders + hotend stuff and different copolyster filaments. The future is in SLA/DLP + SLS


Best thing of all is in a few months monoprice should be releasing their $150 usd delta printer, that based off the pictures from CES and knowing monoprice will be a decent printer that doesn't use a $1 motor

I want to see a 3d printer with feedback control.

>>1127831
There's no point. FDM's material already has worse tolerances than the motion system so you're talking thousands of dollars for something that has little use for it besides recovering poorly from catastrophes.

>>1127830
I don't get the enclosure patents. Isn't it some sort of plastic film?

>>1127837
If my memory is correct stratasys owns a patent on a FDM 3d printer where the entire build volume is enclosed, and at the bottom of the enclosed build volume they have heaters with fan that blow the heat generated through the whole enclosed area, Aka temp control + heated build chamber, so like when you are printing ABS can set the temp inside the build area to 70C on top of setting bed + hot end temp.

>>1127837
On a side note I'd like to see a FDM that has a mechanism for maintaining actual pressure in the hotend, like injection molds do, but I guess there's not much point because of how imprecise molten plastic is when it flows.

Polyjet and Carbon m1 are the next step forward. They're not perfect but they're pretty amazing. Carbon m1 brings speed and amazing resins, that are on par with industrial grade casting polyurethanes, which are stronger than ABS and as durable as acetal.

>>1127840
>If my memory is correct stratasys owns a patent on a FDM 3d printer where the entire build volume is enclosed, and at the bottom of the enclosed build volume they have heaters with fan that blow the heat generated through the whole enclosed area, Aka temp control + heated build chamber, so like when you are printing ABS can set the temp inside the build area to 70C on top of setting bed + hot end temp.
How did those faggots even patent something so generic. Unless there's a a very specific implementation.

Couldn't you make the same thing with a thick plastic film and some fittings to go around the linear motion systems?

>>1127847
even easier then that, electronics on the outside of frame, take a home depot heater where you can have it set to a certain temp, put a thermistor inside the build volume area, and more or less done.

I know they have some minor things to make it seem specific, like electronics on the outside of heated chamber, and a few things like that

https://www.google.com/patents/US6722872

>>1127608
Its usually moisture, but in my case I bought a brand being endorsed by my printer when I first got it and it was just cheap rebranded shit. Even at its best its print quality was crap and I was new and didn't know any better.

I saw a huge jump up with Hatchbox which was the same price, 20-24ish depending on what type. I can still normally get Hatchbox for around that price if I wait for it to come in stock from the right sellers, but I'm looking for alternatives since some takes forever.

Normally I just sand and paint, but sometimes glow in the dark or transparent or really vibrant colors are fun. So I'm just looking for something that gets decent quality to switch between when I need to, that isn't too expensive since I currently do this just for fun.

>>1127851
Check out push plastic and atomic filament, they are a bit more cash then hatchbox is, those two are made in the US, very upfront about stock and inventory, great color selections, very tight tolerances and most colors come in either a glossy and/or matte finish depending on your selections.

>>1127849
It's not even fully enclosed. There are slots on the side for the bed to move up and down.

It's just a box around the bed with a plastic accordion cover on top. Not to mention there's cruft on the motion system to mount the accordion covers on.

It's retarded.

>>1127830
>heated build enclosures are patented
Seriously? Something THAT broad is patented? That's ridiculous - so I can't stick a few halogen bulbs in a box and sell it? Christ.

>>1127858
There is a few side skirts around it, at least cosine addictive found a way around the patent, or strasys hasn't found out about them yet.

So what temps do you guys use for PETG?

>>1127941

230C

>>1127731
m8 check 6:55 on that video where he specifically recommended IRF3708 for a heated bed which is why I bought them. I can keep it at 80 with a fan and no heatsink (fucking massive intel one) but I should try your recommendation of an IRF1404 if I can find one

More or less fixed with epoxy and with a layer of plastic primer, now to my aerobrush it goes.

>>1127999
just a quick tip - try printing your outer layer much slower. I have 80mm/s inside and 20mm/s on the outer layer and my prints look ridiculously nice while still being reaonably quick

What kind of paint or coating would you recommend, so it would stick to ABS and wouldn't get worn out too quickly?

I am making a handle. And there are some mistakes and some warping. I was planing to repair that with epoxy kit and sand it very well. It will be used a lot with hands, so I don't want that paint or lacquer to get transferred to hands.

>>1128011
I don't use ABS since I barely build any practical parts that are subject to issues.

What I first did was sand it a bit, fixed it with epoxy, and then sprayed it with the primer, I let it dry and now I'm working with the aerobrush, here's my first layer.

Has anyone used polycarbonate filament? I haven't seen much reviews and I'm wondering if anyone has tried printing with this and what temps/ enclosure are you using?
And I have a homemade wooden modified prusa i3, what are your acceleration and jerks settings? I'm using 1000 mm/s2 for x and y and 5 for jerk (but going back to 15 due to circles comming out ugly af) Any advice?

>>1128022
ABS is also easier to "work" than PLA, by the way, not necessarily just for "practical" parts - it's easier to sand or cut, and you can acetone smooth it of course. It IS a bitch to print with sometimes though.

>>1127957

Eh, he lists it as "will work great for a hotend, but should work ok with a normal heatbed too"... And it will, a heatsink should lower that 65C-per-watt figure significantly and it might even reach usable levels (better than a fan imho). I'd still prefer something more beefy though like the IRF1404 as they should do fine without a heatsink or anything.

>>1128139
They're cheap enough so I ordered an IRF1404 - what is the reason to ever use the 3708 instead of the 1404?

>>1127956
Cool thank you. I've heard its a nice cross between the quality printing of PLA and durability of ABS, but is a little less hard than PLA. Is that true?

>>1128011
Bondo for touch ups and Automotive Filler Primer, which is a lazy way to get out of some sanding. I honestly quit with ABS though. I can get it to stick well enough, but PLA always comes out sharper for me so I can live with a little more sanding. Though that is partly why I'm looking into PETG.

>>1128190

Perhaps there are less demanding heatbeds out there that don't draw as much current. When you're mass-producing cheap boards even shaving off a few cents makes a difference. It's probably usable with a heatsink too, as i mentioned. RAMPS1.4 is great in terms of usability and addons, but thermally speaking it's pretty bad. It's an old design from a time when a basic 3d printer board could cost you 200$, and attaching a cheap shield to a 50$ Arduino Mega made sense. No 5$ chinese clones back then...

>>1128311

I only print with PLA and PETG. PETG is a little more finicky compared to PLA, but it's a good substitute for ABS.

Key differences:

- PLA is hard and brittle - it tends to break on impact, while PETG is more elastic. As a result, thin walls are going to come out more bendy compared to the same out of PLA.
- PETG is a bit more flexible than ABS, but at least it has none of the stank. If you use thick enough walls you won't be able to tell the difference, so i'd say it makes ABS obsolete for printing these days.
- PETG can actually extrude as low as 200-210C-ish if your extruder has enough bite to it, but 230C is recommended.
- PETG is pretty oozy - there's a tendency for it to accumulate on the nozzle, especially with long prints.
- When printing it's very advisable to use a part cooling fan, otherwise bridging becomes near impossible. For example when doing the first top layer on an infilled section, even that 2-3mm bridging between the infill grid squares can't be done without one. That first top layer just won't stick right. With a really good part-cooling setup though, i've seen people do crazy 120mm bridges, so it's more about setting up the machine's cooling to work for it.
-PETG is transparent by default, so any thin single-walled sections will pass more light through them. Even completely black filament will look closer to "smoked plexiglass" when using a single wall. If you use 2 or more the part will be solid black though.

>>1128425
With Thomas Sanladerer's suggestions (though the IRF3708 was just money down the drain) I think it's working pretty nice. There are fuckin wires everywhere though and it's a bitch to manage. 15A automotive fuse on the bed rail, leave the polyfuse on the extruder rail, IRF1404 for the heated bed and my spare 2 IRF3708's for the extruder etc. and I reckon it'll run safely without a fan.

Weird problem My dudes. Thought i was over extruding so i did a bridge and dimension test.
Surfaces came out nicely, but the corners experienced pic related.

On the non bridge layers i got an overshoot on both x and y axes.

Bottom of the model is the left face of the image.

Jerk, acceleration settings maybe? My belts are tight. As are the set screws for thr gt2 belt gears.

I have no idea.

>>1128500
Other problems.
These fins are 2mm x 5 mm..... Or at least they are supposed to be

>>1128580
I'd be looking at retraction settings but honestly the whole prints look garbo

>>1128580
reduce speeds?
calibrate extrusion?

what material and temp is that printed in?
and as the post above says, possibly look into retraction settings as well

Printed in AMZ3D wood PLA.
It warped somehow on the bottom, but it's not bad.
It plays not great, very airy. But expected with a half wood powder material. Gonna sand it, stain it, and apply a coating.

>>1128748

>>1128750
How does it play?

>>1128425
Wow thank you for all the PETG info that helps a lot. I think I will order some.

Its not bad to swap between PLA and PETG is it?

I have a dual extruder, but I honestly disabled the 2nd one since it was almost impossible to level both at once to the point it was easier to just cut and swap filament with just the left extruder.

>>1128748
That looks fucking retarded. Why would you put a moving y-axis bed on a z-axis?

>>1128769
Dual extruders are only good for support, where adhesion between two materials might not be a top priority and you probably want materials that don't adhere well.

For color change you should simply use something like a diamond or cyclops.

>>1128774
Well I was going to use them for swapping materials, but they are garbage for everything. Trying to get nozzles level by hand so they don't drag through one or another's trail is maddening.

And its not for color its for material. I paint most of the stuff I print to seal the PLA. I just know so filaments aren't always friendly if you push one in after another it can cause a clog if you aren't careful. May be less of an issue for me since its not an all metal hotend just a hardened nozzle.

Flashforge is nice overall, but dual extruders are kinda a bitch, would have gone with a MK2 but dont think it was out at the time.

>>1128772
Surprisingly, a lot of printers do that. I think even a few of the Makerbots do, but don't quote me on that.

>>1128776
That makes no sense. If one nozzle is lower than the other than that's the nozzle you should be using as a reference when leveling your bed. The higher nozzle will then never cause any issues other than adhesion problems, which should be passable on a FDM machine. I think there's another issue here. Dual extrusion isn't great but sounds like there's something else going on, like you're leveling the bed against the wrong nozzle.

>>1128786
Ya the issue is trying to get both nozzles level to the bed at one time. You can level one easy, but getting both nozzles to the same height is the trick. A slight tightening or loosening of the nozzle itself. By default one comes a little more into the carriage than the other, but that can cause sticking issues.

I may try to fuck with it again soon, but overall the only use I ever had was making it lazy to not have to reload material changes.

>>1128500
I had the same problem due to jerk being to low (5 on x and y) get it to 15-20 and make another test

>>1128681
>>1128711
Yeah it looks like garbage.

Pla at 200.

45mm/s

Ill take a look at retraction.
Thanks

>>1128840
Too low?

Interesting. Ill change it. Thanks

>>1128842
The symptom is basicly a ton of shaking when making circles (due to acceleration going on and off extremely quickly) and horrible corners, especially with rather liquid plastics like pla

>>1128769

Yeah i've been able to swap them without a fuss, they can sort of meet around 210-220C so it's just a matter of purging the old material. If you mean using dual extrusion with one hotend being PETG and the other PLA... I'd say there's not much point to it. As >>1128774 mentioned, dual is most useful for support.

>>1128845
I thought jerk was the third derivative of distance with respect to time.

Rate of change of acceleration?

Why isnt this a case of lower = better?

>>1128850
Yea I meant swapping with one hotend. As far as eventually using my 2nd hotend, its not to use both materials at once since that would only really matter with 2 colors or PVA. Its more so I don't have to unload and load if I want to print a different material.

Too often when trying for support in a secondary hotend the oozing can clip into the main hotends work and fuck it over from what I've seen.

That said I've not given either a try since I shit canned Slic3r and started getting way better results. So maybe it can be done now.

>>1127298
has anyone tried printing with the laywood filament? Looks pretty cool

>>1128858

One normally avoids that by using an ooze/priming tower for dual prints. Point is to waste the priming on them instead of the actual part.

>>1128851
Jerk is is the change in speed (so m.s-2) for which acceleration is not triggered. That means, but don't quote me on this, that the motor torque is sufficient to instantly get your axis to your jerk speed. If it is set too high, you'll skip steps since the motor can't keep up but too low and the software will accelerate and descelerate all the time, which will make the print ugly since your filament is under pressure (except if your using something like a volcano). Add the fact that if you're printing small sections, it will cause a ton of vibrations.
What printer do you have? My settings are for a direct drive prusa i3 so if you have a bowden settup with a fixed bed like an ultimaker, you could go higher in jerk and speed but 15-20 is what I see used most of the time on cartessian printers

>>1128863
Thanks a lot.

Right understood. I understood what jerk as a quantity is, but misunderstood how the firmware interprets the setting.

i3 variant. Direct drive.

Do slicer settings override firmware variables?
Id like to be able to experiment with changing shit in cura rather than reflashing my atmega every 10 mins.

>>1128865
I don't think you can change it in slicer. But Maybe with a Midon'tknowwhatnumber command depending on the firmware you're using in the Repetier console.

>>1128865
Nor do I think in Cura either

>>1128865
Ok so after digging, it's, in Marlin, the M205 X20 Z5 command to set your x and y jerk to 20 and z jerk to 5 for example.
Be sure to have activated the function that allows you to edit the epprom in configuration.h before

>>1128869
>>1128870
>>1128873
I updated to marlin 1.1 anyway so i can change these on the fly.

Thanks breh.

I think the model mesh was fucked too desu.

>>1128901
Could you plase post results of your prints and what jerk you entered?

>>1128909
Once ive printed something ill post a picture. Working on remeshing the mode

Hey guys, 3d printn00b here.

I'm hestating between getting a Prusa i3 Pro for bout 300 quid or get a Anet A6 / 3DCSTAR P802 clone for 200 quid.

Is the 100 buck really worth the difference?
As I could also buy 5 kg of filament for that

>>1128987
>i3 Pro
>Acrylic frame

Wow, they'll slap "pro" to any crap, won't they... If you're looking for a bottom-dollar printer, check out the Tevo Tarantula. It's easier to assemble and more sturdy.

>>1128909
>>1128969
Looking good niqqa

Marlin 1.1
Jerking as per your recommendation
Also enabled mesh levelling for jokes.

3h print. So. We shall see how it turns out

>>1128996
Am I seeing some retraction issues?

>>1129015
Yes.
Im fixing One thing at a time.

Overall a lot better.

I cancelled the print because i fugged up with the model again. The fins are too slender and they wobble when the nozzle goes to deposit the material.

Im going to print more confinement rings to keep them in place, then chop them off later. I. An also use them for supporting bridges higher up.

>>1128987
Why is Anet shilled ewerywhere atm?

>>1129079
poorfags buying the cheapest printer whose name they've heard somewhere before
they have no clue on how to judge a printer's quality and are stuck in their consumerist mindset
that they have to buy first and then figure it all out
instead of actually learning about 3d printing, talking to experienced people, looking at a bunch of printers irl
and then deciding on what they need/want and what makes up a good printer
but hey, thousands of others have already bough an anet and it costs only $1XX so it can't be that bad, can it?
truly the most plebeian of the the plebs
about 95% of them have also zero knowledge in the use of CAD software and the principles of designing stuff in general
and also no interest in changing that
all they'll ever print are benchies and useless trinkets downloaded from thingiverse

>>1128022
have you ever thought of casting a plaster mold and making a metal version?

Honestly it doesn't play well. You have to blow gently and it'll sound a bit airy. The wood powder does not lend itself to airtight stuff. It's for a friend who wants to learn to play, so I'm reccomending him sand it, stain it, then coat it.
He's in it for the looks so he doesn't care that it might be bad.

>>1128772
Not sure. But it prints pretty good.

>>1129104
>it prints pretty good.
are you kidding?
It shows exactly the defects you'd expect from a not rigid enough movement system
especially the increase in faults moving up along the z-axis confirm >>1128772

>>1129089
Hey bro I actually do cad. Just need a cheap machine to try some things out for school. And if I get a cheap machine with horrible finish, why would I overpay 30% on it.

100 quid is 10 crates of beer in the end

>>1129116
>try some things out for school
why not use your school's or a local makerspace's printer then instead and get 30 crates of beer?

>>1129118
because the machines at school are often in use by other students. also they dont like it if I do stuff for private use.

so I thought of getting my own cheap machine. gives you some independence. and if i'd need something with high resolution or made from metal I could work out the design kinks myself and use the machine from school for the final part

Anyone know if there has been more word on the SLS printer Monoprice was suppose to be releasing?

Not sure if I'ld buy it eventually, but it may be nice for Form to get some competition and maybe we'll see decently priced SLS.

Something strange just happened to me... I've been using my printer for about a month, was just getting ready to run when I noticed my hotend temp wasn't coming up... take a closer look and I realized the tip was blown out. Is that normal for a month of use?

>>1129193
I've used the same nozzle for a year and half. Still works fine too.

>>1129193
have you used any special plastics?
ccf, glow in dark, wood, or the like?
any particle-filled plastic will quickly erode the tip.

>>1129216
Negative, strictly PLA. My kit was chink, I'm only mildly surprised. New nozzles are cheap.

>>1129218
how heavy was the use?
never even heard of a nozzle blowing out that wide, over time, and not noticing. (even on chinks)

I got a giggle

>>1129116
>>1129119
You seem to have the spirit to polish a chink turd so buy the cheapest chinkshit kit and replace the frame with sturdier material. Remember to change batteries to your fire alarm as chink Ramps 1.4 boards are known to catch fire at some point.

>>1129089
>about 95% of them have also zero knowledge in the use of CAD software and the principles of designing stuff in general
>and also no interest in changing that
>all they'll ever print are benchies and useless trinkets downloaded from thingiverse
Kek'd

>>1129189
Did you mean SLA? Formlabs has to pay x% of their income to 3dsystems so that they won't sue Formlabs. I've taken several form machines apart and the build quality is quite nice, but if you cut the corners in every way and manufacture it in china of course you are able to cut the expenses but most likely it will be done in a similar fashion as the chink acrylic prusa i3's. Lets see when the jews sue monoprice for their cut.

>>1129193
Perhaps there is too much lead in the alloy.

>>1129289
Monoprice is making a resin printer and the results look pretty good. Its suppose to be about 1000 dollars apparently.

no bullshit question: has anyone ever tried using corn plastics?

>>1129308

PLA is a corn plastic.

>>1129311

I'm being an idiot.

>>1129313
I too came into that same coclusion.

>>1129221
I don't think it was that heavy; maybe a few hours every other night. I have a hunch this was the cause:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2086191
I got this printed a couple of nights ago, was printing calibration cubes to try to dial the fan back to an appropriate speed.

>>1129356

How does a fan destroy a brass nozzle? My bet is that the nozzle was crap and they bored it too deeply, leaving only a very thin cap at the tip which evenually fell off when extruding.

>>1129386
Cold might have cracked the tip out; the first test after I installed it, the temp dropped from 200 down to 120 or so when the fan kicked on. Not that I would throw your hypothesis out completely either.

>>1127298
Been looking for a Printer thread for long time and never bothered to look in DIY board (literally who?)

>mfw I found this thread

>>1127298

I have to take a blueprint reading/CAD course

they have a mediocre 3d printer and I have to print something on it

what do I print

>>1129508
benchy

>>1129238

Heh. I like it.

>>1129508
>course

Engineer here.
The best way to learn is to just fucking do it.

Make something. Learn the techniques and fuck up along the way.

Cad courses are legitimate shit designed to earn money, not to teach.

>>1129565

my problem is I don't even know what to do

I really wish they had Eagle because I'm EE but they don't so I'm lost

I tried a cold pull with HT PLA at 100C and it snapped in the heatbreak, causing a clog. I cleared it but now my hotend requires massive force to extrude (but it'll come out).

This E3D chimera has been nothing but a nightmare since I got it.

Started this project a long time ago but finally had some time to start the CAD.

The linear stages are surplus components with 10 nanometer encoder resolution and max velocity/accel of 2m/s and 50m/s^2.

>>1129572
CAD is still a work in progress but it will look something like this.

>>1129569
DL freecad, or openscad
Pirate solidworks, rhino, grasshopper.

Watch youtube tutorials.

Watch tom saladerererererereereeres videos about how to build 3d models.

>>1129571

Try some cleaning filament, aka nylon? PLA isn't great for cold pulls as it's not elastic enough and has a tendency of snapping.

>>1129574
I thought Tom just did printer guides and setups. Or is this a different Tom?

>>1129572

Hey, what kind of dual extruder is that? How much does it weigh? (in grams)

>>1129594
It was just the PLA I had in there.

I thought cleaning filament was some specialty shit? I have one of those Taulman nylons or w/e. What temp am I supposed to do the pull at?

>>1129572
What's that extruder and fan you've got there friend?

>>1129602

Its an E3D Chimera being direct driven by two Bulldog Lite extruders. It all gets bolted to a block of aluminum.

It weighs 960g which is pretty ridiculous as far as extruders go, but the linear stages I am using are also pretty ridiculous.

>>1129595
Dunno. Cant remember, but it doesn't matter. Plenty of other youtubers out there.

I used designalyze to understand the workflow between rhino grasshopper and 3d printing.

>>1129572
What psu are you using?

Link?
Price?

>>1129603

Nah, most often it's nylon, sometimes it's PET. Just repeat the procedure - cool to 100C and pull. It might helpt to push it in a bit as it's cooling. If the clog is extra stubborn it would need to be done a few more times to get everything out.

>>1129608

Wow, nearly 1kg, that's pretty ridonkulous... How do you plan to counter ringing on faster prints with this? Leadscrew drive perhaps?

>>1129622
My Z stage has a zero backlash ground ballscrew rigidly coupled to a brushless servo.

The X and Y stages can effectively teleport to any location within their travel in 60ms or less and stay +-0.5um the entire trip.

Here is a video of the 50mm model, the 150 and 200mm versions use a larger motor: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G28aEqWfCTQ

>>1129620
The PSUs are just chinese switching supplies (S-400-24 and S-400-72).

>>1129648

forgot picture

>>1129648
How much did those ballscrews cost you?

>>1129656
Roughly $300 per axis off ebay as untested used components. Purchased new these stages would have cost 10-20k per axis.

>>1127343
>esun PET is good stuff. I would not bother printing with anything other than PET honestly

>>1129658
Jeez

What's your budget on this thing? That's $900 in the linear motion guides alone. Unless the servos are built in.

>>1129438
>Been looking for a Printer thread
idk why, but when i was first looking for a 3d printing thread, i looked on /g/ for some reason

anyways, whale-cum

>>1129677
The linear stages include everything: servo, ballscrew, linear guides, limit switches, homing switches, encoder, cables, etc...

The budget is actually reasonable for a high end DIY build. The main difference is that most people want huge build volume and I'm going for extreme precision and speed with dual direct drive extruders instead.

I'm going to assemble the frame from waterjet mic6 plate though so that might cost a good chunk of change.

>>1127338
why the fuck do you want your phone next to the outlet bad enough to make a special plate but can't be bothered to build a actual dock the phone can plug into? there is no reason for the one to be held up by the edges like that, move those suckers in a cm and it'll be more stable and look better

>>1129705
That's pretty nice for a full package with ballscrews, linear guides, and servos w/ encoder.

But why are you pursuing extreme precision on a FDM printer? Wouldn't you experience more imprecision from the plastic flowing out?

>>1129718
I pretty much bought the linear stages on impulse and had to come up with a project for them after the fact.

Should be fun to see what FDM can achieve when the linear positioning is perfect.

The extruder will always be exactly where it should be (+- 0.0005mm). That kind of consistency should at produce nice surface finishes. Fast rapids should prevent stringing as well.

>>1129724
I hope you have better luck with the chimera than I do.

My prusa mk2 got shipped out and 2 days until delivery
What should I print with it? I've got a few things already and a bunch of prototype parts for my company but any recommendations on what to print? I need more things to print

Does everyone print indoors?
I've got an air filter in my room for my allergies, would that keep me from getting the ABS cancer?

>>1129741
yes.
no, unless its very very expensive.
you can try venting the printer's fumes out a window though.

additionally, probably unwise to print in a place with zero ventilation.

if you have space other than your bedroom, move it there.
logically, unless you're a small child, it should be fine.
A good place would be either a garage, or near an open window but not too close.

tl;dr bedrooms are a bad spot.

>>1129572
>>1129573
>>1129608
>>1129649
don't forget to show us some prints when you finish that
im interested to see

I am getting these shitty pieces out of my prusa i3.

Measures are somewat(OK) the thing is, that seems like the Y axis is fucking around but I don't know if its a lack of belt tension or that the motors are losing steps and I should increase the amps, or what is happening here.

>>1129827

Tension the belts, dial in the Y stepper current and calibrate your extruder's steps/mm. You may be overextruding.

>>1129827
Is it making weird noises/vibrations durring the print?

>>1129705
If you are gonna be doing super precise prints, you should check out 0.15mm nozzle from E3D.
But i think the bottleneck in your setup is direct drive extruder. You should think about geared drive, maybe even something like Bondtech extruder with two drive gears

>>1129827
could be a number of issues

calibrate printer, then calibrate slicer

>>1129827

that looks like multiple issues in one...

looks like some z-wobble is going on, but to my eye it looks like the biggest issue is over-extrusion. calibrate your e-steps in firmware, and calibrate your extrusion multiplier in your slicer software, then try again.

at least thats what i'd do

>>1129765
How about PLA?
Any dangers of printint that in a small room?
I have a window and an air filter that I can use. I don't want to put it outside of my room because I don't trust my roommates that much

>>1129965
PLA is supposed to be totally non toxic - it's as safe as cooking (in theory). Not sure I'd want to hot box the fumes in a broom closet, but in a ventilated room? You'll be fine.

>>1129965
the particles are too small for the filter.
PLA makes significantly fewer particles than ABS. Open a window, and you'll be fine.

Been thinking of buying an original Prusa I3 MK2 3D their current lead time is something like 7 weeks. Price has also gone up pretty badly last I saw it was for 599 now it's 699 for the kit.

>>1130175
Honestly unless you're desperate or inpatient i'd still order it even with the long wait. You can use the time to learn auto desk inventor or something.

Does anyone know about how long house rats are? I'm designing a rat trap with a built in gas chamber attachment (attach a hose to it to pump in CO2) and I need the door to completely shut so it doesn't escape.
all jokes aside the gas chamber method of killing rats is supposed to be one of the most humane ways.
This fat rat has been raiding my pantry and I swear I'm gong to get that fucker

>>1130175
mine is coming tomorrow
can't fucking wait

>>1130217
Big container with smooth sides and a narrow top with cat/dog food in the bottom. They go in and have a bite to eat then you can take them out to some woods and just tip it over to let them go.

Rodents are smart as fuck they figure out traps.

>>1130251
my area has a rat problem and so I prefer to gas them to help end the problem

>>1130137

Hm what about PETG? I can barely detect any smell at all when printing it.

http://hackaday.com/2017/02/13/ingenious-use-of-3d-printer-gives-simba-the-mane-he-deserves/

>>1130617
we did it reddit!

Does anyone else get hungry when printing PLA?

Fucking PLA keeps coming unstuck from my hotplate

I've got the plate at 60 and the extruder at 215
I cleaned the plate with alcohol and even added a brim with the print and the thing still comes undone

Help
I'll post a picture when I get home if I remember to

>>1131137
what material is it?

I've had zero problems with glass and I find it to stick too well with blue painters tape. I keep my bed cold.

>>1131151
PEI
It's what came with the prusa mk2 kit
It was working great up until last night when I went to bed during a long print and I woke up with a ball of .4mm PLA yarn all over my floor

I've heard if you're interested in spending the time you could print your own 3d printer, like an i3 prusa (?).

Is this worth doing (will the printer be decent) and what should I expect?

>>1131159
PEI sometimes you have to sand it a little. I use polishing paper on mine with rubbing alcohol, polishing paper is basically super fine sandpaper.

I'm not sure but what I think happens is that as it heats and cools the surface slowly becomes more smooth.

>>1131137
>>1131151
>>1131159
back now
Here is one of the prints that I tried printing this morning
see the warp near the bottom?

printing this same piece with a brim makes it work fine but on larger items it still warps

>>1131289
but why did it work before though?
I just started having this problem
is PEI supposed to be smooth like glass? Mine is a little rough on top like there is a plastic coating to protect the tray. Not that rough, just less smooth than glass

>>1131289
should I try using glue? I've heard that helps

>>1131293
My PEI worked flawlessly up until a certain point where it just instantly hated PLA as it has a harder time griping it due to the lower temp. As soon as I gave it a sanding it was fine again like new.

I put alcohol on the surface and sanded with a 3 micron bit of polishing paper. A little more coarse is probably fine too, a little more fine didn't work well enough.

>>1131295
Never had to use glue on it. I went PEI specifically because I hated the eventual build up of glue. Plus you can do a lot of printing on PEI before you need to do this again.

>>1131327
I'm trying another print right now and it looks like slowing down the bottom layers helped to keep it from warping but we shall see...

>>1131340
It can, but don't be afraid to sand a little. A sheet of PEI is like 20 bucks.

>>1131345
It came up just a tiny bit.
I think it keeps coming up right where it starts the print after it does that warmup circle around the object thing.

>>1131361
Is that were your fan points? If its a MK2 that thing has a powerful fan. May need to give it another layer without it.

>>1131377
yeah it's a MK2
I'll try that tomorrow at around this time
Thanks for the help though!

Sometimes my filament thumps in the extruder on my bowden fed E3D chimera. Should I be looking into a better extruder?

I have a pretty shitty quality airtripper's, which struggles to extrude at all, and a cheap chinese metal extruder that's okay most of the time up to like 40mm/s. I want to be printing up to 100mm/s

I'm looking at the "production" double geared extruders but they're stupidly expensive for what it looks like you get.

>>1131387
Is your z axis height low enough during the first layer to squish the filament onto the bed?

Can someone link me to the veiniest, throbbingest cock model that you've seen on the net?

fug :^)

Finally got PETG to stick to my bed. Needed to print at 260C and onto blue tape (on top of PEI, on top of glass, on top of the aluminum heated bed). Jeez.

>>1131562
As far as I know it is. When printing a line it looks like how it's supposed to for a good print

How thick is a good thickness for top and bottom layers? I usually print at .15mm layer thickness for everything and .3 for top and bottom
The sweet spot for me with plastic has been 55 bed and 215 extruder

The i3 mk2 has the auto bed leveling so an uneven bed shouldn't be the problem either

>>1131790
Pla* not plastic

>>1131711
You may have so many layers of build plate on there that the heat isn't really getting to the top. I'm about to test some PETG on PEI in the next day so I'll see if it compares in struggle.

>>1131883
I don't remember it working too well with just the glass either. Which is why I bought the PEI iirc, and then I put blue tape over the pei.

>>1131907
I glued my PEI right to the aluminum plate with a 2 side 3M glue pad. My glass sits in a bin unused as its only advantage was being removable but that isn't really need when I don't have to apply anything. Also my printers design was hitting the clips with the built which seemed like it would end badly.

Then again I never had any luck with the blue tape either. Heat from the bed kept peeling it. Only thing that ever worked for me was glue stick and PEI. PEI replaced glue since it was a lot less of a pain in the ass with no clean up.

Its a mostly enclosed printer though so that could be a difference too.

>>1131883
Be careful with PETG. I think that PETG adheres too much to PEI and can damage it. I am not sure, but I think I heard that somewhere.

>>1131595
How this happened? Did you hit it with something, or was extruder pushing plastic too fast and hotend could't keep up? That would be a powerful extruder.

>>1130627
Do you think that it would be that popular, if they knew it was made by the hacker known as 4Chan?

>>1131956

Looks like plain old layer delamination where it snapped from the weight of the motor. From the looks of it, infill didn't adhere at all.

>>1131907

Did you clean your glass with alcohol? Even dust from the previous day can be enough to mess up adhesion. I print PETG wihout issues with the bed set to 80C. I can print it on a cold bed too if i use gluestick.

>>1130627
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6RRwLLY5uS4

>>1131999
That woodfill print looks pretty good
I like it

>>1131595
>placing your motor so that it induces flexural stress normal to the plane of the layers
>not increasing perimeter width to increase the section modulus

That was dum

>>1131956
>>1131595
The extruder basicly did push itself off the hotend. My guess is just that the extruder got brittle with time. I bought it off a guy a few years ago and went through some abuse in my early days of 3d printing.

Whelp, time to look for a new extruder ...

>>1131377
I seem to have fixed the problem with a little glue
I guess I need to buy some stock in the glue-stick industry before 3D printers get more popular

Is there any third-party slicer software I can use with a Makerbot replicator 5th gen and/or replicator+?
My college recently got one of each and makerbot's official software is really terrible.

3dprinted computer case small atx

I can't seem to get stuff to stick to the printer bed. I have a i3 mk2 and I am using the recommended settings for PLA. Is it the printing speed? I have it set to the default of 100.

>>1131956
Thanks for the heads up. I'll proceed with caution and maybe print something small in the corner.

>>1132295
Even if that's ABS or PC+ABS I doubt that'll hold up once it gets hot. It can easily hit like 60C in there.

You should design it so it can be reinforced using metal or carbon rods.

So, quick dumb question. I ordered an anet a8 and i plan on printing out a lot of mods for it to increase its usability and reliability. I have access to a professional grade printer on a limited basis (dimension uprint so super high quality stuff) that only prints in ABS

my question is, can I print out parts for the printer in ABS or is PLA the preferred material for things like brackets and carridge holders and shit. I've been having trouble finding a definitive answer

>>1132318
A lot of people like PLA because it prints with more accuracy and sharper definition and its easier to print on any printer. But if you have access to one that can do quality ABS, ABS does make for more durable and heat resistant parts, for instance you wouldn't want PLA near the hotend because it would warp over time.

PETG is the middle ground of that these days, but if you have something you can get stupidly good ABS prints to use then go for it.

>>1132339
My school has a uprint that can print with super quality, these are the guys that own the patent on heated enclosures and all the prints that it puts out are just stunning quality with second to none layer adhesion, along with support material that can be dissolved in water.

I only plan on doing PLA on my anet once it gets here but I am definitely going to upgrade to an e3d bowden setup along with stability mods and better bearings. thanks for the input!

>>1132308
Ye can see the psu starting to bend. Ty for tip

>>1132308
Ty

How do you guys finish PLA prints? I tried NaOH, H2O2 and acetone but nothing works. The only change I got was with acetone: pic related and the some of the PLA was deluted in solution.

>>1132390
It is possible to smooth PLA chemically but it involves some quite nasty chemicals.

>>1132346
You know you can buy support material that can be dissolved in water. Not a unique thing.

>>1132390
PLa cannot be smoothed by any typical solvent it requires some nasty stuff.

>>1132510
I'm aware that it's not something unique to this machine and I didn't claim that it was, I was just making note of the point that this machine does it in addition to doing really good abs prints.

>>1132390

I recently purchased a hot air station for SMD rework and it seems pretty viable for smoothing PLA. Since these stations allow you to set the temperature you can set it reasonably low, and if you sand the part beforehand you can clearly see when the surface turns from matte to glossy. Biggest downside to using hot air is that you can sometimes get bubbling if you overheat a certain area. It's supposedly due to trapped air inside the print trying to escape, so using thicker walls with more perimeters would likely remedy the problem. It's worth investigating.

I tried it on ABS but the fumes were so awful... Stick to acetone there.

>>1132390
Have you tried some of the oven finished pla's?

>>1132540
I've been looking at that. How is it? How much did you get it for and how long have you had it/used it?

>>1132390
Here.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CZX8eHC7fws

>>1132542

40$, i got it last month for working on PCBs but decided to try it on PLA and the part came out glossy. I noticed that if it's printed at 0.1mm or less you don't really need to sand it beforehand. It also takes care of those spots with "stress-whitening" left over from taking off the support where it touched the print.

As for the stations themselves, they seem to go by a ton of different names from a ton of different factories. The manufacturing quality and safety of them varies a lot too, kinda like the Prusa i3's... Mine is a "Kaleep 858D" - i was looking for the type where the handpiece is wired directly to the unit instead of using a connector. Apparently the stations with the connector were dangerous because one of the pins on that connector was connected straight to mains AC...

>>1132559
>one of the pins on that connector was connected straight to mains AC
really? for fuck's sake.

>>1132562

Yeah man, it paints a picture of how much the chinese give a shit about safety standards. Even some of the "directly wired in" units have suffered from poor quality control where the factory worker accidentally mis-wired the ground and AC wires, putting mains AC on the metal part of the handle...

http://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/deadly-wiring-fault-atten-858d-hot-air-rework-station/

For anyone thinking about getting one of these, better know what you're doing and inspect it for shenanigans when you get it. Or look for imported units which may be more expensive, but would've supposedly passed safety inspection before being sold locally.

On the other hand, being so dirt-cheap they have quite a community around them, much like the i3's. Some units even use a standard Atmega chip that can be programmed with custom firmware. You can search the EEVblog forum for 858D, there's plenty of info there.

>>1132540
I get the problem with the metal parts being connected to the mains but of course a pin on the power connector is going to connect to mains. It probably uses a mains powered heating element.

>>1132298
What program are you using. I was having the same problem above, I even tried using the glue-stick and it stopped working. Finally I ditched Cura for the recommended Slic3r and it's working perfectly

What's a good brand for PLA?
I don't want to get screwed with a poorly wound spool and get a print ruined. Right now I'm printing up something that will take 24 hours and I will shit myself if the spool fucks up

I can't get slic3r to make only one perimiter. I've set the minimum amount to 1 and even tried Spiral Vase, but it still does two of them. What am I missing?

>>1132622
Do you mean perimeter or wall?
Have you tried printing it yet?
Looks like 1 time around to me
You're talking about the green line right?

>>1132628
AFAIK perimeter = wall and the green line is the skirt. No, I mean the yellow.

>>1132622
show the picture of the object. Is it full cube/cuboid or is the hole already in the model itself and you are somehow trying to make 1 perimeter wall?

>>1132632
Maybe the object is too thick
Why do you want only 1?

>>1132632
>>1132633

Yes, if the model already has the hole in it and the walls aren't thin enough, it may be doing this because the object actually has two walls. It really has to be thinner than 2*nozzle diameter, or you have to just make it a solid box and use vase mode.

>>1132390
Chemicals have marginal effects. Ovens will smooth, but also usually shrink but only in some directions distorting the part.

I use sandpaper and polishing paper. Rotary tools can help. Its tedious, but it tends to get you really good quality. Also Filler Primer can help smoother areas or painting in general. Filler primer is also really easy to sand over directly sanding just PLA.

>>1132622
Its ability to print something thin is based on multiples of your nozzle size. So if the wall is .6 thick and your nozzle is .4 it may be rounding up to make two walls to total .8 thick since it can't physically make the thickness you are after. Slic3r is nice, but runs on some weird logic on those thing sometimes.

Try remaking the box to match the nozzle sizes, we tend to like to do things in multiples of 5 but nozzles usually come in multiples of 2. Or swap out for a thinner nozzle.

What do you do with all your failed prints and scraps?
Is there some sort of filament maker where you can melt the plastic down and recycle it back into filament?

>>1132683
Filament making is pretty intensive, its like spinning yarn but your doing it through vats of water cooling to make it perfectly round.

Sadly failed prints are pretty useless. I have a hard time tossing them too though. I suppose you could make a way to fuse them into a brick or something in a mold.

Anyone know of any Z-axis driver extension boards for the Ramps 1.4? My printer currently has two Z-axis motors with integrated leadscrews and I want to add a third powered leadscrew because the bed is tilting from side to side, and I need something to stabilize the bed.

>>1132684
Hmm. Interesting. Big bricks of failed prints would be like some sort of modern art you could hang up in your printing room

Finally some decent looking prints

I'm looking to build a printer that supports moldlay filament , how do I figure out if its supported by a kit?

Rate my pooh bear. First model printed and painted.
Printer still needs work, Need a belt tenser for my X/Y axis.

>>1132729
>how do I figure out if its supported by a kit?
The maximum temperature of the hot end.

Looks like any printer what prints PLA will print moldlay, which is all of them. It isn't an abrasive filament either so no special nozzle needed.

Printing PETG. Sticks to the bed perfectly and the out shells are going well, but infill is going kinda stringy so it all falls apart and feels a bit brittle. Too much heat or not enough?

Going about 232C onto a bed at 61C. I've heard you should go past 240C if you aren't all metal because the teflon breaks down and gets fume-y.

>>1132742
Shouldn't*
I mean.

>>1132741
My man, good looking. Not to learn cad and all these terms

>>1132686
On a related note, where can I get some good leadscrews for cheap? Surely there must be some ebay store that machines their own screws or something like that one guy who does ballscrews.

>>1132742
>Bed at 61c
why not 60 or 65?
When adjusting the temp I usually go by increments of 5 so there is like +- 2C variance safety net

>>1132751
Was taken from my PLA settings which was stepped down 1 at the time from 65 to find a sweet spot for where the printer is that sticks, but minimizes elephant foot.

Just not sure if I should up the nozzle or lower it. I think upping it, but I don't want to move into unsafe territory as I do not have an all metal hotend.

>>1132633
>>1132634
>>1132641
>>1132656
I'm trying to save material since this is a one-off print; it's a box to hold silicone while I cast something inside it so it just needs to hold up for that, nothing else.

>>1132390
methyl ethyl ketone,
Tetrahydrofuran

also,
>>1127298
HEY STICKYMAN!
i got some use out of this page, that the other visual troubleshooters did not totally help with. (please consider it)
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

I'm getting a case of elephant foot with my prusa. I just got done printing a flat object and it was stuck harder than a motherfucker so I used a razorblade to help get it off and sliced up (no pun intended) my finger.
I think i need to raise the print head just a tad bit higher so it doesn't do this but how do I do that? Is there a setting that I have to tweak in slic3r or is it on the printer?

>>1132849
z offset

>>1132850
How much z offset is good to get rid of elephant foot?
or is that just something you've got to mess around with?

>>1132856
print an object/cube 10 to 30mm high.
measure height delta with calipers preferably.
its somewhere less than that amount, i would imagine.

3D noob here, looking to print these in ABS. The central gap is 64mm in diameter, will I need a support structure for that? If I do, is there a way to have it add the support structure in the middle, but not in the recesses for the nuts?

>>1132878
would help if I actually attached the pic.

>>1132879
Use meshmixer supports

>>1132881
Thanks, checking it out now.

>>1132878

The slicer automatically calculates where support is needed based on a set angle. If a section has an overhang larger than say, 30 degrees, it puts support there. As for what's the max overhang angle your printer can do - it varies with every machine and filament. You can print an overhang benchmark (pic related) to determine that.

>>1132879
Why don't you just rotate it?

>>1132840
>methyl ethyl ketone,
>Tetrahydrofuran
+chloroform

>HEY STICKYMAN!
>i got some use out of this page, that the other visual troubleshooters did not totally help with. (please consider it)
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

I'll try to remember to add it. Anyone opposing this?

>>1132892
Neat, thanks for the info.

>>1132894
I put them upright so I could fit more of them on the build plate. There's only two in my picture, but I'd like to print at least 4 at a time, maybe more.

Does anyone have experience with Octoprint running on a Raspberry Pi? Is it stable enough for 50+ hour prints?

I currently shuttle an SD card between my computer and FFCP but the constant replugging has already killed the card that came with the printer and it would be nice to be able to just fire GCode straight from S3D.

>>1132885
>>1132901
If these are going to be parts which at all are structural/take force, you're not going to have a fun time with those holes - delamination is a serious possibility.

Re: your original question: You don't NEED supports since it's not too sharp of an angle, but the hole(s) won't turn out as smooth/round.

>>1132878
why not lay them flat?

Hi guys, I'm planning on being a distributor for electronics based in the US. Are there any specific modules you would like to acquire quite a few of at a time? I am currently negotiating the price on 1000 esp12's, and have many other orders in for some discrete ICs. I have orders in for a ton of stepper motor drivers already(RAMPS A4988's) I will beat any listed price on Ebay/amazon, provided you pay for shipping costs. Let me know what you think.

>>1133048
If I list a bunch of parts on ebay for $0.01 will you beat that?

>>1133048
>provided you pay for shipping costs
Shipping from China is free and I'm fine with waiting a bit for penny a piece parts because I have projects planned in advance.

>>1133072
Same here, not looking for a big profit, and in some cases I'd be beating aliexpress prices also. Not looking at making a living off of it, mainly want to take business away from the brick and mortar hobby shops, and eventually break into scientific equipment manufacturing, private robotics courses/build days(currently teaching at the local uni)

>>1127298
my shitty valentine's day figure is there, it even has a shitty paintjob, check pic related

>>1133069
I'd love to buy some parts from Ebay for that cheap! Mainly looking at larger stuff, not capacitors/resistors, but stuff that compete with xBee's, arduino's and some sensors.

>>1133076
well at least you tried anon.
A+ for effort!

FUCKING ELEPHANT FOOT GO AWAY
I've been tweaking for about 6 hours now and it's slowly disappearing.
such is life with a 3D printer

>>1133075
It's not really beating the price of aliexpress goods if I have to pay for US shipping.

>>1133076
please make this the next thread starter image

>>1133083
>In some cases
>>1133075
If you are buying 30+ of a given item, they will still charge you shipping(not always applicable with free lot listings, but you don't get that on 50+ stepper motor controllers).
Some people need it within the week, instead of dealing with a delayed item coming from China in 3-7 weeks.

>>1133083
I'd pay for shipping if it's not shit chink quality

>>1133094
I would be plugging in every component and checking to see if it works before shipping it out.

>>1133082
Try using a slightly thicker piece of paper for levelling. My Creator Pro came with a piece of card that's about the same thickness as 130gsm card stock. Also, bear in mind that if you use a heated bed, you should drop temps by 5-10C depending on the material.

>>1133111
I print on a heated bed that is 50C and the nozzle is at 210C for the first layer then 215 for the rest

>>1133120
That sounds a wee bit hot for PLA (I'm guessing you're printing PLA based on the bed temp). Typically, I run anywhere from 195-205C for regular PLAs with a 60C bed but I did recently do a project that required absolutely perfect prints (in terms of elephant footing, I was printing gears for a clock) so I was printing Polymax at 185C with a 60C bed and 45mm/s to compensate for the poor flow this produced.

>>1133124
yeah I'm printing PLA
I guess I'll try setting the temp at something like 205 or 200C

>>1133126
If your slicer supports it, use something like this:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1028352
to find the minimum print temp. I also print hexagonal bars to test interlayer adhesion by running off a few and manually snapping them to see which takes the most force to break (I don't have fancy testing equipment) (this was how I arrived at the 185 for Polymax, curiously, it's stronger at that temp than at 195).

Another good test is Marvin, not just for the print quality but a small pair of wire snips inserted into the 'eyes' and closed about the bridge will produce a local break if interlayer adhesion is good and decapitate the poor sod if it's poor.

>>1133136
I'm getting a good 1st layer at 205C and 210C for the rest. I'm trying out 55C bed to keep it from shrinking too much and warp.

The first layer was a solid 10/10 but I've got another hour or 2 until it finishes. Pray for me

>>1133174
Best of luck. What bed & coating are you using?

>>1133195
PEI
print is about 70% done and looks perfect. Probably one of my best prints (in terms of layer quality) so far.

>>1133076
You can buy some anime eye water decals on amiami

>>1133195
Came out perfect.
No warping and no elephant foot and no random globs!
I'd post a picture but my cellphone camera keeps crashing my phone
Thanks for the help!

Newbie here with a MMS v2. The first model I printed came out perfectly, then I go to print something tonight and I got this. Maybe a partial clog? Or under-extrusion?

Is there a way to modify STL files? I've been trying to create my own microphone stand but I want to use some neat claws that somebody modeled as the grips but I need to bend them so that they can wrap around the mic properly along with some modifications so they can be screwed into the arm i'm making.

>>1133252
Over extruding or too hot?
What does the part you're trying to print look like?
What temperatures are you running?
What filament?

>>1132598
what am i looking at?

>>1133271
Trying to print 4 of pic related for the Z-axis brace mod. Printing at 225 and the bed at 80 using 1.75mm ABS

>>1132598
this looks cool as fuck.
SLA or something?
>>1133252
try giving it an atomic pull (for partial clogs).
also, the raft probably does not need to be that large, (if it is one).

>>1133285
oh yeah, if you're having bed adhesion issues, consider cleaning the plate with isopropyl.
so, i think i was running into a similar problem today, on a smaller scale.
the bed is not cool enough for the ABS to hit its glass temp, and your temps were almost identical.

also, tell us the filament brand as well. the temperatures really vary.

.1mm layer height is kind of small for a structural part; go for .3.

still though, do you really need the raft?

sage for double post.

Why do people prefer to print with ABS over PLA?
Is it easier to finish and paint on ABS?

>>1133304
I'm using monoprice filament too, and it's actually staying put on the bed rather well, it's just the print is all sorts of messed up, instead of the neat infill and perfect shapes I got on my first print.

I'll try lowering the bed temp a little then, and upping layer height to .3mm.

>>1133082

Calgon, take me away!

>>1133222
>>1133240
Smashing.

>>1133326
Using those settings didn't help, it's still printing spaghetti. Is the maker select v2 compatible with cura 2.3.1 or do I need to use the version included on the SD?

>>1133233
It's not anime tho.

Hi guys

I need help. I built a prusa i3 with arduino mega+ramps1,4. Everything works, expect from the extruder motor. I tried to swap the motor, swap the A4988 controller, tried to use it in the E1 extruder slot insted of E0 but nothing. Did any of you guys have similar issue? How could you solve it?

>>1133298
Yep! My Formlabs 2 printer printing a protein that a colleague scanned.

>>1133276
SLA/Resin printer

>>1133497
Test the motor by wiring it to axis.

>>1133545
>>
I did, the motor works. I swapped the controller board, worked too. Swapped the E0 and E1 pins still the same. I read on a forum about that marlin is sensitive for arduino software. Do anybody know about that?

>>1133497
Are you trying to move it while the extruder is cold? The software normally should lock that motor and only move it when the hotend reports high temperature

Should I use a geared nema 17 with 0.35 degree steppings for a single motor, closed loop z-axis?

>>1133365
looking at the reviews, it seems partial clogs are really common with the filament.
does the maker select need to have its extruder calibrated?

Today it's been a great day
Resolved the warping problem with my printer by using the stock air hose instead of that turbine shit, 3D printed a shock mount, modeled and 3D printed the microphone itself

I was going to buy an ElCheapo lapel mic and adapt it into the mount but I took the /diy/est way

I can post a vocaroo if any of you want to hear how the mic sounds

I feel my extruder motor is not extruding continously, would it help if i raise the motor current on the driver?

>>1133625
It could but you're possibly not addressing the underlying problem. Try heating the extruder and checking that filament can be manually pushed through it smoothly.

when i turn off my printers switch, it makes a strange clicking noise, like its trying to turn on again. I opened it up and the wanhao board has a green light that turns again four times, when I switch it off. Do you guys have any idea what might be causing this to happen? thanks

>>1133630
I can manually push PLA through smoothly at 200C, and i run the print at 205-210. I can even extrude fine with single commands.

But when printing sometimes it just drags whiskers of filament from the nozzle. Only reducing the feed rate to 25% has some noticeable effect.

Printed my first benchy tonight; cheapass kit printer, so I wasn't expecting miracles. Any idea what's causing the layer separation halfway up? It looks like it comes and goes on the same layer.

>>1133568
Same as when it is hot. I commented the cold extrusion prevention line.

>>1133707
try changing retraction settings

Jesus fuck the first layer always stresses me out watching for any little bump or outline wall coming unstuck
buying a 3D printer has been bad for my health

>>1132339
With my wanhao I just cannot avoid warp on the build plate with ABS parts longer than 100mm or so. Tried pretty much everything.. right now it's smallish warp and the corners lift but not enough to snap the brim which is good enough for most of what I do but completely eliminating it seems impossible

Whats a good accepted model i can print and take a photo of so you guys can tell me whats wrong with my printer?

>>1133928
>>1133707

>>1133941
k

How fast do you guys go through a spool of 1Kg filament? I'm running at about 1 spool every 10 days

>>1133829
keep in mind, abs will also stick to blue painters tape.
it will stick so well, you will have issues getting it off.
just wipe with a small amount of isopropyl before you print on anything.
if you're getting curling on edges on higher layers, your temps might be too high.

>>1133707

The whole print looks pretty underextruded, that section failed in particular because it's the thinnest. It's not the retraction.

Is there a way I can see estimated print time and filament usage on Slic3r like on cura?

I'm starting to get the hang of printing ABS but my prints still have 1 or 2 cracks afterwards. Would using a dremel and some filament to fill them in strengthen the part at all or am I just wasting my time?

Do any of you here in /3dpg/ still keep your first prints ever as a keepsake? Pic is mine

>>1133980
Tried that already. It doesn't break off but it will still lift just a little. I don't often see people printing large box shapes with sharp corners in ABS. I think to get the result I want I'd need actively heated build chamber which is just not worth doing for me.

>>1133973
I have spools that are almost a year old - what are you printing to eat up that much plastic?

>>1134275
Yep. Don't have any pictures on hand but my first two (from my two printers) are the Polycount logo and a FO3 energy cell.

>>1134399
Well I print for my company that prototypes parts for people. If the person likes it we make a mold and send it back to them so I'm pretty much printing 24/7

What's a good filament brand for PLA?

>>1133639
>>1133625

Turns out when i start a print without heating the bed it extrudes better. As soon as i turn on the bed, filament is not coming out of the nozzle. Is this a weak PSU?

>>1134464
PSU is rated 21A. Im guessing thats chinese amps, which have an unknown conversion factor to real world amps, and im pretty sure that factor is below one.

>>1134301
>sharp corners
theres yer problem, er not entirely but
turn those sharp corners into rads/fillets if possible and print a large skirt, possibly 2-3 layers tall.
maybe even whole print height to minimize heat loss

divide your heated bed into 9 zones and measure the temp in those 9 zones to try and find hot spots and then adjust your part based on that.
temp low spots will cause warpage/shrinkage

make sure your bed is as perpendicular to the hotend as possible , and possibly smoosh the first layer more than usual

you may not need an actively heated chamber, but try to minimize any potential loss of heat /temperature difference on the heated bed and part

try printing your first(few?) layer at a higher hotend temp/bed temp

last but not least
DRY YOUR FILAMENT
abs is not specifically hydroscopic, warpage/shrinkage isnt exactly a symptom of moist filiment but it will help with processing in general

>>1134467

Yup, you're probably running it at its limits, you need about 25-26A for 12V. Heatbeds eat up a lot of power, 200W easy. Look for a PSU that's 320W and above. I'm using a Meanwell RSP-320-12 "slim" type and it works fine, but i consider it to be the minimum.

>>1134486
Fuck these are expensive. I bought 3 48V 1500W supply for the price of one you mentioned. I might have to deal with it and get one.

>>1134486
why wouldn't you go with an AC powered bed and 24V for motors and hotend at that point?

>>1134609
>48V 1500W
I'm assuming this is for a different project
but if you've actually used this on a printer you are a genuine mad man

First 3d printer is on the way.

Not interested in PLA doodads. Want to start off with nylon or cf+nylon. (yes, a hardened nozzle is on the way as well)

Do y'all think it is really necessary to teethe on PLA?

>>1134680
cf filaments don't have any real appreciable difference outside of shrinking and warping during printing; Strength difference is non-existent.

PLA is significantly cheaper than nylon, so you can do any sort of troubleshooting with the PLA, as opposed to the nylon. who's saying you need to buy only one filament type?
plain nylon will warp as bad as ABS, teeth on ABS instead of PLA. Keep in mind, nylon printing requires an all metal hotend, no ptfe tube.

>>1134696
I realize that inter-layer bonding is likely to be the weak link, but are the CF nylons really no stronger than the equivalent plain nylon?

No one is saying I need to buy only one filament. What I intend to use it for dictates that PLA is too weak and brittle, and nylon seems to be the best option. Figured why waste time setting it up and tuning for PLA or even ABS only to do it all over again for nylon?

>>1134611
>different project
Yeah, i wouldnt use it, i was just amazed at the price difference.


I got a 24V 10A supply, thats not chinese amps, can i use it with a GT2560?

>>1134609

It doesn't have to be an expensive Meanwell one, just more than 320W. Gotta say, one of the things about sourcing a printer yourself is that you're sometimes inclined to overpay for top-quality parts when you don't really need to.

>>1134714

Not with a heated bed. Just calculate the watts - 24V*10A makes 240W. Heatbed is 180-200W, heater cartridge is 40W... Not only does it not leave room for anything else, but you always need to add a 20% safety margin ontop of your actual power needs.

>>1134733

Also forgot to mention - if you're handy with the soldering iron, reworking an ATX power supply is the best bang-per-buck you can get as they are cheap and usually pretty reliable. Not uncommon to find 600W ones or more, you just have to know what you're doing and have enough room to put it in the printer. Info here:

http://reprap.org/wiki/ATX

>>1134701
Because setting up and tuning for PLA doesn't exist. You put it in the printer and it works unless you fuck something up massively. Special filaments and even ABS are difficult to print with and you're just going to get pissed off by how nothing is coming out how it should. I'd recommend PETG if you want something stronger and less brittle than PLA, since PETG is still very much easy to print.

>>1134701
>PLA is too weak and brittle
What are you making, out of curiosity?