/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1779320
Well when it comes to masonry like bricks and concrete, you can’t drill through it with a basic drill and bit, you need a masonry bit and a hammer drill with the hammer function so the bit taps away in addition to spinning like normal. Also the regular hammer drill-drivers normally have a chuck that opens up to 1/2” max. SDS hammers have different chucks that take the SDS shank (there is SDS Max and SDS Plus or some shit too). The SDS rotary hammer tools have a much harder hammering mechanism to break away the masonry.

For random work around the house when I’m drilling a couple of <10mm holes in the masonry exterior wall, I can get away with the hammer drill (like the one on the left in the pic above). If you’re doing more of a construction project and need to drop a few dozen 1/2”+ anchors into concrete holes, the little hammer drill will take forever and an SDS would be the way to go.

Oh and just to clear things up, hammer drill (in the US at least) normally means the smaller drill-driver with a hammer function to be used with masonry bits. Rotary hammers are the bigger guys, I think SDS and SDS-Plus/Max must be some trademarked names for them and the different sized bits.

>>1706105
Just remember the difference between drill bits and driver bits when you’re talking about this stuff.

Drill bits are for making holes. Driver bits are the +, -, and * bits for driving screws into the holes.

Most drill bits you see at the big box stores will be standard jobber length. You can get shorter or longer ones for special purposes, but there isn’t really a need. For driver bits, it’s nice to have an assortment with a couple longer ~3” bits for reaching screws recessed in holes.

Drill bits, just get whatever 14pc-21pc set from 1/16” up to 1/2”, the gold colored ones you see are Titanium Nitride coated (or whatever) and hold up well. Read the packaging, some like the DeWalt Pilot Point or brad point (spur point in pic related) are real nice in wood and softer materials since they allow you to center them easily, but not really made for metal. The split point bits, like 135deg I think, are good for pretty much everything except masonry like concrete and brick. Masonry bits are made to be used with hammer drills, not sure if yours has that function,

For larger holes in wood and soft materials, there are spade bits, hole saws, big auger bits, etc. I’m sure there are good guides online too, AvE has a quick goofy drill bit guide on Youtube that will learn you up on them a bit.

Also look at the specs for the drill you got, most full size 18V cordless drills have a 1/2” chuck and will fit pretty much all the bits you would find at Home Depot, but some compact drills have a 3/8” chuck and won’t take drill bits >3/8” unless they have a reduced shank size.

And then your impact driver is the 1/4” hex chuck thing, so that will hold any driver bit with that standard size. Some drill bits have the 1/4” hex shank to fit in the impact driver, but I wouldn’t recommend it for that. The drill is for making holes with drill bits, and the impact driver is for screwing screws and bolts into the holes.