/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>2628389
Alright, it's been like a month already and i have no idea the fuck is happening.
When i just bought my printer (Flyingbear Ghost 6) it used to print PETG at stock cura profiles perfectly. I could even bump up the speed and have it still be pretty good.
After some modifications (bimetal Heatbreak, nozzle replaced from MK8 to E3D, klipper boards, etc), it refuses to print PETG at stock speeds whatsoever. It keeps shitting out blobs somewhere around infill-inner wall area that it hits later during printing and sometimes catches onto layers UNLESS i lower the speed from 60 to 40mm/s.
I suspect this has something to do with the flow, but why exactly did that happen now if i could print PETG properly with it out of the box at three times the speed?
>Nozzles
Unless changing MK8 to E3D (With appropriate heatbreak, i'm not that retarded) has an effect on this - i have tried several different brass and steel nozzles including a trianglelab one i am using right now. Still same shit.
>Heatbreak
Only thing i havent tried to test is the stock heatbreak - It's just a long hollow steel, i think, tube with thread at the end and. Several E3D heatbreaks i've tried didn't change shit, including the custom FBG6 bimetal one i have right now.
>Heater unit
The whole assembly is not stock but only real difference is the thermistor type and the fact that the aluminium on the brick is machined instead of powder. The heater itself is 50W like the original hotend, and it keeps the temperature steady, judging by the graph.
>Extruder
Stock direct drive. Works alright with PLA, and works alright with slower speeds. Cogs look fine.
>PTFE Tube between the heatbreak and extruder
I have no idea how would it even make a difference, but i used the same tube i cut it from when i was rocking the old head assembly and it worked flawlessly.

Help me anons