/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1250145
>>1250447
I got the silicone and started experimenting. Its a Smooth-on "Dragon Skin 10 FAST".

Has a hardness of 10 Shore A. Its hardness is comparable to jello like pic related, or the skin under your arm.
It is sticky like freshly dried paint or some cheese (no right example comes to me right now), but it doent smear or leave marks on surfaces. Dust and dirt stick to it like no tomorrow, but can easily be wiped off under water.
It is tough, i made a 20x20x1.5 mm test piece that i cant tear apart when im holding my hand out.

I poured small amounts, like the area of my thumb on different materials to see how the cured thing works. The mix has a consistency of thick syrup but over time it gets into details easily.
It cured okay, and can be peeled off okay from the following, without any release agent:
-printed PLA
-epoxy (on PLA)
-hotsnot
-paper
-previously cast silicone of the same type.

Peeling is easy but you have to find a corner to start it from, and slowly work your way. The amount of detail it preserves from the mould is amazing, even the print lines can be seen.

So from the above i can say if you want a smooth finish you can (from the most economic/easy option to the most expensive/complicated):
-first mould in printed pla, remove the cured silicone and coat it with a new batch of silicone to remove the print lines (it will drip so you might have to do this multiple passes on different surfaces)
-use hotsnot to smooth out your print, then mould the silicone
-coat the print with epoxy (let it set obviously), then mould the silicone

I have also tried silicone on silicone chaulk used in sealing stuff in bathrooms. My thinking was, i can save a lot of money if i use silicone chaulk for the bulk of the material, then 2 component silicone for the details on the outer layers. Interestingly the 2 component silicone is not curing on the silicone chaulk, it has a skin thats cured but the interface is still not set. Maybe it needs more time..