/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1938138
no, anon, thats just button inputs to adjust settings etc., the display works fine with this cable disconnected.

>>1938149
>you see how the display is attached? plastic is melted
yeah, i will probably use some tiny self tapping screws.

>i'd suggest you get some colored plastic
heh that was my first thought when i first opened it. but i wanted to fix it "electronically" even though i agree it is probably the easiest and the most practical approach. but who cares about practical.

>i have some 200 sheets of red acetate
why thank you anon, the film on this one is blue so a red or two over blue would make a nice shade of purple. but i honestly would prefer replacing it with red, it probably wouldn't even be as annoyingly bright. i hate blue leds. But unfortunately all leds are also blue.

oh my, so i took it apart. holy shit, it is not a 7 segment thing, just a bunch of literal LEDs inside a plastic case with hollow slots shaped as segments. sounds obvious but i didn't even think about it. they are driven by a 48(?) channel driver( common anode, luckily). Luckily VDD and Vled are two separate lines. I think I found the Vled input. Anons, take a look at Q3, it is not a voltage regulator, it is a transistor, right? it outputs 2.5v to the LEDs' anodes but one of its inputs is connected to a micro pin via a resistor (the cyan square). So maybe thats how they implemented the two brightness levels. Perhaps the emitter is pulled to the ground via the micro pin. There is also some kind of a feedback resistor (120 ohm?) that is connected back to the input of Q3. I wonder if it is so that when Q3 is turned off, 3.3v is fed directly to the LEDs via that resistor??

Also the beefy 2R2 in the red square looks like a current limiting resistor. so maybe I replace that one with the pot? Or I could lift the trace after Q3 and put a pot there.