/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1202286
Depends on the steel, you buy the stock and generally they have the hardening, tempering and forge working temperatures with it, or look it up

Most high alloy steels tend to harden around 780-800C, low alloy carbon steels around 800-850, most use forge temperatures to work it around the high 900's to 1100C

>>1160107
Generally it has very little deformation, however it is a tool steel and you'll need to soak the whole lot to harden and temper it as differential heat treatments just don't really work as well. Lot of tungsten in there that basically need to reach its happy place in the alloy.
Most O1's like a critical temp of between Cherry-Bright Cherry (your supplier will hopefully put it on the metal's details)
Try to hold it there for 5-10min
Don't over-heat it cooks the carbon out, too low and it won't harden properly. If you don't have a forge you can make one out of a couple of kiln bricks strapped together eg-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bunCG6W6dA

When you do cut the bevel into the blade, don't go down to the final edge as it will heat quicker than the rest, leave about 0.5-1mm on the blank and sharpen it up normally after tempering.
Tempering is pretty easy, on a small section give it 30-40min, let it cool down to room temp and then put it back in for another 30-40min. O1 'likes' a harder temper, anywhere between 60-62HRC seems to be its sweet spot

>>1098293
Magnets are mostly shit :)
Its true, there is demag at certain temps, but the best way is colour. For O1 you want a bright-cherry, going onto salmon colour so I mostly do the heat treating at night where I can see where its at.
For a soak, if you don't have temperature control I'll generally finish the blade off to about 280-400 grit and then make a fine clay slip to cover the blade. When it goes in I'll get it to the bright cherry for a while and hold it there, if its getting too hot, pull it out and let it cool down a little, then run it back up to temp, do that 2-3 times and its generally enough for the soak on something the thickness of a knife blade and full magic to have happened.
Clay I've found is really handing when soaking as it stops decarburisation of the steel (burning off carbon from the upper layers) and makes clean up a much easier process.

The double temper is essential though, 2hrs + room temp cool down and then another 2hrs does seem to work best. You'll also want to get that blade straight from the quench to the oven as quickly as you can to prevent any cracking, quick clean it up and make sure theres no cracks or other shit happening and then straight in.

>>1039337
Pretty much and thats the simplest sort of way I could describe it.

Also don't forget that colour is also an indication of temperature as well