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/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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>> No.1522199 [View]
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1522199

>>1522195

Yes, the drylin material is a real pain in the ass to machine and work with in general. Any additional steps to tighten the tolerances makes the individual part much more expensive - for example they have bearings that are pre-pressfit into an aluminium enclosure but the're 5 times the cost. They also offer ones with an inner "sleeve" (pictured) that is practically the same thing as cutting a cheap RJM one like i mentioned before. The reason they don't just cut the cheap ones is that these things are supposed to be drop-in replacements or regular LMxUU's in industrial equipment, and cutting them decreases the outer diameter a little, hence the aluminium outer part. Not a big deal for DIYer 3d printers though - just secure it with zipties or a pillowblock and bob's your uncle.

>> No.1385497 [View]
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1385497

>>1385490

Yeah, these grooves are actually meant for circlips - you'll also find the same ones on a regular LM10UU. Their function is not to squeeze the bearing though, it's just for restricting motion on the rod's axis so they don't slip out when the carriage is moving. The Igus plastic is a bit tough and hard to machine, so to get it squeezed just right you need a metal housing with a precise bore and some sort of press to force it in. I mentioned that there are the much more expensive RJUM series (pictured) which have an aluminium housing and an inner plastic sleeve that's split in much the same way as what i did to get it within the desired tolerances.

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