/diy/ - Do It Yourself

thanks for all the replies hope you all are having/had a nice day

>>1988465
>are you sure the file isn't corrupt?
pretty sure, what i meant with "same appearance on the surface" was that the infill layerlines were really thin and didnt adhere to the subjacent layer wheras the layer lines of the walls printed out okay (see lower three images in pic related)
>>1988580
pic related just a modified CR10V2 hotend assembly
>>1988499
included pics of the heatbreak assembly
the tube goes about 0.4" into the heatbreak
the inlet area inside of the heatbreak is clean, no gunk nothing, the tube sits flush inside of the receptor region inside the heatbreak and feeds the filament into the heatbreak (one of the upper pictures shows how long the filament piece went into the heatbreak after i removed the 'hot' coolingblock/hotend assembly from the tube/filament sticking inside the tube.
(only heated it up after the clog of yesterday to pull out the filament leaving whatever was inside the heatbreak/nozzle in there..., then did the "extrusion testsand temp measurements" as well as later pictures with filament inside the cold heatbreak/nozzle)

heated it up gradually and measured the temperatures with my IR thermometer, its rated up to 500° thats where i encountered a little discrepancy, from 190°C onwards i measured about -10° to -20° less than what i had set the heating element to, nevertheless i was able to easily manually extrude at my regular printing temperature of 240C as well as having the extruder process is without any problems. there is no bending at the nozzle tip either.
the cooling block never went over 36°C whereas i was able to measure 225° on the surface of the heater block so i assume the thermal break works as intended.
however i am still unable to figure out what causes the "underextrusion due to clogged nozzle"