/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>2763056
Electrolytic are the most commonly used, specifically aluminum. If you can find rather new devices, it might be worth it, just keep in mind that the bigger they are, the more expensive. Tried to resurrect an old matrix printer lately, had to pay 7 eurobucks for a 10,000uF/63V. So if they look like they were manufactured within the last ~10 years, you might be in luck.
Just keep this in mind: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
Other types, like tantalum electrolyte and ceramic, are less common but also less prone to failure.
Don't know what that IT junkyard is holding, but if you're in luck, you might find really old hardware, like 1960s and before. In that case, keep an eye out for discontinued cap types, such as Mica, air and glass caps, for the same reason as the ICs. If you can find old radio equipment, they might have variable capacitors for tuning, which can get rather large and thus expensive.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_types#Types_and_styles

tl;dr bigger + less common = more expensive

Also >>2763049 probably meant less of the front plate redesign and more of "small plastic pieces that degraded over time", like small latches, hinges, gears etc.
In the 1980s and 1990s CAD wasn't really there yet, so milled and injected pieces were rather simple and way less complex than nowadays. They'd rather use more pieces and glue/screw them together than waste three moths on a single injection mold. Such pieces are 99% puprose-made and impossible to get spares for, so 3D printing them is the second best thing to actually making them from metal stock.
On that note, if you want to get into repairing old hifi, you should think about getting into metal fabrication. I'd start with a small lathe and go from there. There's plenty of videos on how to get these chinkshit lathes to work properly:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3mu9NLjkR4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05vUCdzhoe4
Once you got it right get a mill and rotary table.