/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Finally got a usable print. Took ~1 month to tweak, re-wire, make enclosure, sabotage self due to own stupidity, etc.
pretty ugly z-banding on this part, and all the bed mounting spheres had come loose so that could've caused it.
Best part is that it didn't take all day (literally: it took half the day) with infill and supports printed at >20mm^3. No warping, part exists, mission accomplished.
Biggest improvement was re-assembling the toolhead with a piece of filament in hand and not being afraid to sand/drill the parts. Next biggest improvement was the cable management. I printed some dumbshit mods which slightly interfered with the clearances and I hadn't even noticed because of all the wires in the way.
I have to redo the enclosure (used double sided tape instead of glue) and the printer's going to shit the bed any minute now, i.e. it hasn't shit the bed already, i.e. it's working good. life is good.

>>2620377
>>2617330

Small-cell XPS is technically the wrong choice for this application. Because the cells are smaller, it has low adhesion to the fiberglass (the plies will peel right off) and there might also be some additives (Si?) which inhibit the epoxy bond.
It won't be a problem for your application, if it works then it works. just thought it was worth sharing. From what I understand it's most apparent with repeated flexing.
What you want is the large-cell XPS sold as flotation billets. It's rougher and doesn't look as nice but that's the type that's been popular since the 80s in murrika for homebuilt aircraft.
(I would've used the small-cell stuff in my project but my mum wouldn't let me.)