/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>2672682
Ready-made hub motors I'm not sure about. If you're doing a chain drive you can get any old RC hobby BLDC, the aliexpress specials have Kv and sometimes torque specifications. You can also convert any outrunner BLDC to being a wheel hub motor, but it does mean some amount of fabrication.

>>2672732
Soldering is easy. Desoldering though isn't. I bought one of pic related, it works great for the price. It's a 929DV, whatever that means. You can also try hollow desoldering needles.
But honestly for 2-pin components you can just melt one joint, tilt the cap away from that side, then melt the other and tilt in the other direction, repeat ad infinitum.

In your case you've got a heavy ground plane, so if the leads aren't budging AT ALL when you tug on the cap, chances are you just aren't getting enough heat into the joint to melt the solder all the way through the plated through hole. You'll want to be using an iron at least 30-40W or so, ideally use a temperature controlled iron at least 50W. In a pinch a ~70W non-temp-controlled iron might power through the joint, but I'd be wary on using one of those with a delicate PCB.


As the other guy alludes to, adding extra solder to your tip is a great way of decreasing the thermal resistance between your soldering tip and the joint. Adding flux is a way for that blob of solder to stay nice and metallic and not go all crusty, in the event your desoldering operation takes more than a 15s. It's also advisable to make as much surface area of your tip as possible be in close proximity of the joint. In the case of a conical tip, this means putting the tip on its side, naturally the blob of molten solder would sit between the tip's side and the joint. It may take a while of doing this for the solder to melt all the way though, so keep lightly tugging on the cap and it will move more once done. Don't pull too hard or you might delaminate a copper pad if the joint hasn't melted all the way through.