[ 3 / biz / cgl / ck / diy / fa / ic / jp / lit / sci / vr / vt ] [ index / top / reports ] [ become a patron ] [ status ]
2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Search:


View post   

>> No.278727 [View]
File: 360 KB, 995x744, cross_section.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
278727

>>278669
Depends on the level of detail you want to get. 28mm seems a little bit small, though.
As a reference, look at pic of >>278102 which is the best quality that I have seen so far. Unfortunately, I don't have exact data on the model size, but it looks like 5-ish centimeters or 2 inches.
It took about 14 hours to print, so no mass production.
You will also have to color the models yourself if you want color (or invest in something like the Zprinter 650 for just measly 60K $).

>>278531
Don't worry, I'll try to explain as best as I can. Basically, you can't just feed any 3D model into your printer. It won't know what to do with the data.
You first have to "slice" the model into thin layers which will determine the movement of the tool head in Z (and thus, your vertical resolution). The slicer will also generate a toolpath to tell your machine how to horizontally position the extruder within the layers.
Imagine it like a pen drawing the outlines of a cross section of your 3D model and filling the enclosed space with a pattern (after all, if you want your object to be solid, you will have to extrude plastic threads to fill it). The attached pic shows this quite well.
All this information about toolhead movement (in a standardized format called G-Code) is saved in a file that can then finally be fed to the printer that interprets the commands and translates them into motor actuations.

Navigation
View posts[+24][+48][+96]