/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1324543
jesus fuck that char looks bad. is there even any copper left there?
also, blowing your nose by C7203B is a nice touch and will aid the subsequent solder job almost as well as a shot of black
to quick-and-dirty verify MOSFET action you want to read ohms from source to drain with gate to drain open then shorted. this might not work if Vgs(th) is higher than the ohmmeter's open circuit voltage.

>>1324543
you probably should have ordered 2 just in case there's a yet undiagnosed fault. at least digi-key doesn't gouge hard for shipping.
youdonedidgoodson.jpg

>>1324626
yep, perfectly normal. if you were intended to provide the relay it would be drawn outside of the box

>>1324717
SMD isn't as hard as all that. get some tacky paste flux and you'll be fine. 1206s are piss-easy to solder. you should consider, just for giggles, to add some 1206 components and footprints in parallel to and under your THT resistors, and you'll have a practice board too
THT aside, this board's kinda big. why not 1/4 or 1/8 watt resistors? it's not like they'll even see that much in this circuit
consider the capacity of the button battery is probably not more than 50mAh. then consider the current consumption of all your LEDs and the timer, figure out how long it's going to run, and then consider a AAA battery on- or off-board for power
my personal autism wants to see R4 in a row with R3 and R5
D2 might be closer to the board edge than necessary, ditto the add'l LED Vouts (also we don't call it Vin, it's +Vout and -Vout since it's not an input per se)
generally, in production, it's a good idea to minimize the number of distinct parts/values you're using. you should make both NPNs the same type
a circuit like this "should" be able to fit on a single-sided board. since fabrication costs increase with layers, maybe you could try to route everything on one side. it's no sin to throw a wire jumper or two in there if truly needed
bretty gud first attempt, just tighten it up :DD