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/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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>> No.2774772 [View]
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2774772

>>2774549
>I think you're thinking of the word displaced, as has been the case since time immemorial

This is the short-sighted, shit take that most people who have failed to really consider the consequences of even a mediocre AGI, usually using the logic that >>2774744 is getting at. "Derp derp still need someone to watch the robots." That was only true for the vast majority of simple AI algorithms that have existed up until now. There has always been one critical factor that humans have always had the edge on: Learning. You have never been able to teach an AI/robot by simply showing it or telling it what to do. There have been previous attempt to sort of mimic this at a simplistic level for specific tasks, but the software behind it wasn't sufficient to come up with novel solutions on its own for even relatively slight variations on the taught behavior.

Consider, then, an AI that CAN be taught in the way you can train a human to do a job. You are absolutely fucked at that point.

You now have as many people as you want to do that job, all of whom effectively have the collective experience of each other. Say you're hiring, oh, I don't know...a new electrical engineer. Your choices are between one dude with a college degree who wants $150k a year, or an AI who has the effective experience of potentially thousands of years of work, can complete jobs that would take the former weeks within literal seconds, and will do that work for somewhere between a small license fee or outright free.

Where in the fuck is the economic incentive to hire the first guy? There is none. There never will be, ever again. That's the reality of AGI. It literally obsoletes humanity as a labor source. The problem is, human society is built around humans being the controlling labor source. It doesn't work when nobody is needed for anything.

>> No.2509116 [View]
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2509116

>>2508479
>Too hard to manufacture for the price of making a solid wire of similar ampacity

Go look at the price of a 1" copper plumbing pipe. Then go look at the price of a solid 1" bar of copper. The price difference is huge, and plumbing pipe is DOM tube (a notably more expensive process than welded). Additionally, the exact thing being described already exists and is widespread in the form of braided shielding.

The logic of "hurr durr all that matters is outer diameter" is retarded on its face. Otherwise, you could do shit like run 100A through RG6 no problem. Go try it, tell me how well that goes.

>That's called copper clad wire and its use in industry is well established.

Yeah, and it's used mostly because aluminum is cheaper for a given ampacity than copper. The only reason it's coated in copper is because copper/aluminum junctions are a nightmare scenario for promoting galvanic corrosion. Having aluminum in direct contact with copper will quickly destroy the connection, possibly within mere days if it gets wet with something like salt water. It's also seen where large conductor needs to span a significant length and the weight/strength of copper would be a problem, but bare aluminum wire won't do (again, usually for corrosion/weathering reasons).

Go look at literally any of the NEC charts dictating the maximum amp rating for copper wire and CCA wire of the same gauge. They're not even close. You know why? Because the whole wire is conducting, not just the outer surface.

>> No.1828734 [View]
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1828734

>>1828725
>Dural which is a copper, magnesium, and aluminum composite which was garbage and flexed


A quick googling shows that this is flat-out wrong. Dural (duraluminum/duralumin/duralum) is an obsoleted name for what is now specced as 2000-series aluminum alloys. It is not a composite.

There is still a branded Dural™ flavor, which is apparently 95Al/4Cu/1Mn, but, like most metallic alloys, it shares a similar modulus of elasticity with the rest of the aluminum family, in the range of 70GPa. Strictly speaking, it's actually slightly more rigid than 6061, at 73GPa, versus 6061's 69GPa.


So, either you're full of shit because it's neither a composite nor more flexible than a typical aluminum alloy, or Prusa is full of shit because it was never actually dural or Dural™. I neither know which, or really care.

Also, I'm going to go out on a limb and say that it's not cheaper than 6061, much less "way cheaper". I can't even think of any alloy off the top of my head that's cheaper than 6061-T6, since it's used in damn near everything, and has very little in the way of expensive alloying ingredients.

/autism

>> No.1594194 [View]
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1594194

>>1594187
>Most people aren't that handy though

Most people are lazy, ignorant, lack foresight, and/or are outright stupid, but come the fuck on here. You would have to be legitimately mentally handicapped to be unable to cram some stuff into a small hole and run a paintbrush over it. Putting down a dropcloth is a similar level of difficulty.

I've never heard of anyone hesitating to hang something on a wall in a rental/apartment for that reason. Doing something like running ethernet through a wall, sure, but not small holes for drywall anchors or screws into studs.

OP, there's flat-out no way to do this safely without adding a HUGE amount of weight (probably around half a ton at least) to the bottom. Just mount it to the wall. Fix the holes after. As just mentioned, it's not a big deal.

>> No.1410128 [View]
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1410128

>>1410045
>15 and 18 are too weak for regular work

Hurr?

I used a cheap Weller 15W from RadioShack for years before getting a soldering station. Given how often I've seen other people with that exact model, I'm guessing I'm not the only one, either. It worked fine for anything that wasn't attached to a heatsink (and some stuff that was) or fatter than 12AWG.

>> No.1144396 [View]
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1144396

>>1140002

Depends entirely on some combination of length of conductor, insulation used, acceptable temperate rise, acceptable voltage drop, duty cycle, and amount of ventilation/cooling available.

Additionally, even by some of the most conservative ratings (the US NEC's listings for ampacity), 12AWG is good for 20A.

>> No.1115126 [View]
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1115126

>>1115097
>I think you don't know how specific components actually work of a computer and are just stating things without knowing anything.

Not that guy, but, even if you're right and he doesn't "know how specific components actually work of a computer", YOU don't know a damn thing about what you're trying to do. You freely admit that you don't know a damn thing about how a processor works, and, if I had to guess, are still high on the novelty of learning the absolute basics of digital logic and the fact that it isn't just applicable to silicon.

You are in no position to judge.

I'll be honest: I have no idea of what kind of total parts count you're looking at here. I DO know that it's going to be astronomical, especially if you try to adhere to any real-life standards, such that, theoretically, this thing could somehow be interfaced with a normal PC.

The most basic bitch, early CPUs still had thousands of individual components on their dies. Let's just pull the Z80 as an example. 8500 transistors. Even if you could somehow use half the number of mechanical components to create an equivalent logic gate, you're still looking at over 4000 components just in the CPU logic. You will then need to connect those logic gates to each other meaningfully, something that's taken for granted in a CPU and not included in any component count. Then the parts to fasten them together. Oh and the parts that fasten the gates to some kind of mechanical support. Then extra parts for odd linkages here and there. Then a frame to put this all in.

And then you have to do this ALL OVER AGAIN for the memory architecture, address bus, human interface, and whatever form of output or display it has. Then I hope you planned ahead and provided all the necessary bits and bobs to make all this shit move.

Unless you radically simplify what you define as "a word pad of sort", I will be astounded if you can get this thing working in less than 50,000 parts.

>> No.718857 [View]
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718857

>>718853
>>718770

It's generally accepted that that video was faked. Not only have plenty of people successfully taken apart HDDs and put them back together without special equipment, the clicking sound it's making in the video is reminiscent of normal seeking noise, not the repetitive resetting of the drive heads otherwise known as the "click of death".

Besides, the construction of a HDD is such that the top serves only minimal structural purposes. All the screws do is clamp the top on. There's no way they could induce enough flex in the main body of the case to cause a drive to malfunction.

Even if we assume it DID, the result is NOT that you simply reset the screws with a torque driver and everything is peachy. The result would be scratched platters and a ruined drive.

>> No.437309 [View]
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437309

>>434374

It's lithium titanate. And those wouldn't be all that great for an EV, near as I can tell. EVs (or at least practical ones) don't have a need for extremely high discharge rates, and titanate batteries have lower energy densities than other lithium-based chemistries. Iron phosphate still looks like the best general all-rounder as far as EVs go.

>>437180
>>437190
>>437211
>>437250

You don't need a transmission for an EV.

But odds are good you're going to want one. Despite the torque/RPM relationship for an electric motor being well-suited to getting something moving, it's not perfect. A transmission will still be able to help the car more efficiently get power from the batteries to the wheels.

The only downside to a transmission is a bit of weight (not that OP is going to care, given that he's using SLA), complexity, and cost. Additionally, odds are that you'll have to either get one specifically made for electric motors (if such a thing exists commercially for the size of motor you want), or do a bit of hacking to get it to work at the lower RPM the motor's going to produce. I know automatic ones have to have the clutch mechanism bypassed, too.

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