/diy/ - Do It Yourself

SON OF A BITCH. Those earrings were MY claim to nerdfame! I made a set of those fuckers three years ago when I found a stash of burnt out tubes at a yard sale. I gave them to my now-ex girlfriend. She loved them. I think there may be some safety concerns with them in the long run, though, especially if they've lost vacuum.

I like obvious-in-the-open ideas, nobody every thinks to look. They're going to check the book shelf, the dresser, closets, etc. Who the fuck checks paint cans, christmas decorations, or packing supplies?

>empty paint cans, by the way

Get the appropriate sized shipping tube, or a couple of them, and put it with all of the wrapping paper for Christmas, or your shipping supplies. ditch the jars, empty/cleaned out paint cans, dump gold into them, line the bottom the cotton cloth, place them with the rest of your home improvement supplies. Not-so-obvious-but-fuck-what-idiot-hides-gold-with-house-paint.

>>169552


Scraping is a fantastic form of sanding/finishing, but if you build furniture or anything for people, be sure to take that into account for the final price... It takes longer, and it's also wayyyyy more intensive because you have to pay attention as opposed to mindlessly running the jitterbug or rotary. It really does pay off though, it's a gorgeous final product.

I honestly think that regardless of what op put on his table, this idea is fucking ace, and it's somewhat original. Fuck the art, it's the application in this situation. Good job, thanks for the inspiration, man.

Wow, this is ridiculous. I've got plenty of furniture that I need to refinish, you bet I'll be all over this idea.

For those asking about bleed, it's going to happen regardless unless you sand all of the grain out (not happening,) to what extent is based on how you tack your stencil down.

There's a couple ways to do this, if you put your stencil down in the very beginning of finishing, I'd probably do it at bare wood. It looks like OP cut the invert of what you would normally cut, he took out the positive space as opposed to the negative, so the stain made the negative space, and the wood grain made the positive. If you did it the opposite way your detail would pop in the natural wood color, and the positive space would match the table.

You should be sanded to 220 anyway, then buffed to remove dust. You could do a similar process to acid etching, mask off the rest of your table, and lay your stencil down in spray paint, then stain the whole table to preference with an OIL BASED STAIN, or oil in general, then come back with acetone to get the paint off. That would give you perfect lines, the paint fills the grain where the stain would bleed. The acetone will take it right out, without harming the oil. Don't POUR IT, just take a rag and wipe it until all the paint is gone.

Just some food for thought, Anon.

While this looks somewhat impossible, I still managed it with some decent preplanning and got a reasonable result. You have to cut the shape, then cut the invert on a second stencil taking extra care to make all of the bridges in the shadows/where you couldn't cut out on the original. It turned out fairly well, I was pleased. Also, since it's two parts, color layering was possible to give even further depth. I know it's not a "stencil," but it can certainly be used for it.

May not be interesting or difficult, but it's relevant to my interests and good practice for the novice!

Ingrown toenail removal blows, I've done it several times with brand new exacto blades, sterilized, of course.

You... don't want to be a chick?

or a guy with manboobs?

Both are understandable. The ace bandages will be your best bet... they're breathable, and abundant. Unfortunately, it's hard to DIY elastic infused fabrics...

Have you tried Spandex?

I'll be the first to advise against this, but what's the issue so we know what we're dealing with? Mole? Skin tag?

stewmac.com

I guess I should clarify, it will still absorb the finish, but not nearly as much, and it won't penetrate near as much. Oil/wax is my favorite type of finish. You can always re-up on the wax, and buff it back out to a perfect finish.

Some will say there is no such thing as too much sanding.

BUT

If you go too high, it'll "close" the pores, they'll just be sanded too smooth to absorb any finish. I'd hit it with 220, once more, then finish.

It depends on the wood that'll do this, too, tight grained, really dense woods (bubinga, purpleheart, etc) are all notorious for that... so, keep it in mind.

You're playing with something you made. Fuckin' enjoy it, it's more than a lot of people can do. Billy the Kid(s), I'm sure you're good at whatever you do, but unless you're posting realistic proof of skillz, get bent. Just sayin'.

>>162875

Might be a bit overkill, contact cleaner and a few passes in and out of the jack will take off any offending corrosion.

My first Makitas were built like shit. In four months, they were trashed. I guess I'm hard on tools, they sent me a new set, two years ago, and they've lasted. I'd buy 'em, again.

Billy the /k/ids are rampant on almost every board. It's not just one dude, anymore. He has copycats. successful troll is successful.

>kid

Yeah... don't put ketchup into that female connector...

Contact cleaner at Wal Mart - Electronics cleaner = 3.95 in automotive section... You can use it to clean almost anything involving corrosion. It's handy. I keep a can in my tool box and truck at all times.

http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_bmp_wiring.pdf?phpMyAdmin=78482479fd7e7fc3768044a841b3e8
5a

^^^^ that's what you need, OP. GGG is rad.

>>161306

Heat sink****

It's also worth noting, your soldering iron will fry those transistors, and diodes. Make sure your tip is clean, and you're using a decent low-melt electronics solder. Flux is your friend, and if it looks like too much solder, it is too much solder. Good joints look shiny, shitty/cold joints look dull. If you get it all put together, and can't figure out why it doesn't work, check for cold joints. Twist your wires, inductance isn't a big issue since there's very little voltage going through the pedal.

Do you know how to heat skin components for soldering purposes?

GGG does some tuning, so you can't really use the real muff schematic. Doing the board is going to be the easy part. The connections are going to be difficult if you can't read the schem. You can eyeball it somewhat, but you'll have to do some trouble shooting. (ex, if R7 is supposed to go to the center lug of the tone pot, you have to make a wire connection from R7 to the center lug of the tone pot.) There will be no instructions. The BYOC kits are tardidiot proof, the GGG kits are for experimenters and people who know the difference between elbows and assholes with electronics, somewhat. Good luck, buddy.

SX makes fine beginner guitars.

>>156391

shut up.

The SG is 24.75 which is standard Gibson scale, There's some inbetweens (PRS) at 25, and Fender at 25.5. Those are the most common scales.

56-13 should be more than enough to pull some relief in that neck, even in C. I play 68-14 in B, and they're nice and tight.

The shorter scale length kind of puts you at a disadvantage, since there's going to be less tension overall, in this situation. That being said, SG's are one of the most often down tuned guitars. So many people use them for doom/sludge/stoner rock. I use a Guild S100 in C standard, no buzz...

Everything is a balance. You don't just adjust one thing to make a perfect player. Neck/bridge/nut etc all has to be within a happy median in order to get a good player. If the nut is too low, and the neck is too straight, shim the nut. Use something super thin, business card, piece of a soda bottle cut to fit. There's always a chance the frets aren't level. If that's the case, there's many tutorials on how to do it. I've done it a bunch, it's no biggie. Just a little scary at first.

This tele is in B standard.