/diy/ - Do It Yourself

I got some wire nuts but fucked up at the store and got too small of nuts, and stores are closed now, so if I am to do the wire nut test it has to wait til tomorrow. Still open to any other input, i.e. could it even be a switch issue since I just installed a new switch

>>2517775
nice job anon, make sure u get the same type of cap and ratings...


>>2517799
for de-soldering, I would highly recommend using a solder sucker/pump like a goot GS-108 or TP-100 which will generally work much faster and stress the pads less from my experience especially for someone who never used solder wick b4.
also might want to watch these first before u start if u haven't soldered b4:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLBXXuFXCtmtqlamIEfu3lSTzM5t1k2cx_

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0wI-5YZQm4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpgMn88Qfjs

follow the steps and complete the primary check/repair, then you should go for a secondary diagnoses, which has 3 golden roles:

1. during this stage u will have to power up the board, the best way to power it is an isolation transformer, so the board is kept floating (galvanically isolated) this will reduce the risk of electrocution, also install a fast acting low current breaker or an incandescent lightbulb/heater or a fuse inline for added safety against short circuits accidental and otherwise, i personally use a 200w ceramic heater it if it glows i know there is a short and due to the PTC nature of the heater it limits the current enough to not cause catastrophic failure...
u could work on it on that state, but still i wouldn't recommend that for a beginner, so wear gloves and boots while working, and if u don't have access to an isolation transformer u have to use a GFCI/RDC outlet or breaker in line with circuit u are powering:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=olq9wdeNS4c

2.make sure yk where ur hands are!! keep ur hands off the board and the board always powered down at all times except during the test!!!


3. thou shalt check voltages, start from the primary side, since the voltages there are known for the most part, if they are in the ball park (+10v or -10v) its ok, any thing higher u should investigate the primary components

>>2513812
Yah I can do without all the automated features, I was just hoping to retain them.
I have a Pfaff 118, but the only thing I like about it is that it does zig-zags.
The feed dogs are so wide I can’t use a zipper foot cuz even the wide on one side ones aren’t wide enough to apply any downward pressure on the feed dogs.
Tl;dr I want an industrial needle-feed machine and this is the only used one I can find within 100 miles of me
>pic rel is the machine I use most

>>2513237
>>2513482
Some of the features I would lose would be
>programmable auto-lock stitch
>auto foot lifter
>auto thread cutter
>needle position
Those features IMO aren’t worth the $500+ of a rotary phase converter or $700+ for new 3-phase wiring installed.
A new, simpler servo setup for $180 is the most economical option with a VFD not being an option, unless there is some kind of phase converter that is cheaper I’m not aware of?

>>2497564
Good to know, I was going to take it apart and conformal coat it all, but as the kids say, LE YOLO XD.

bump

>>2475335
It's like a vest he wears isn't it?

>>2475314
Damn you got me too.

are n95 cartridges on m3 mask good using around concrete sawing dust? any specific cartridges i should be buying?

what type of face mask should i use for mixing my dry concrete ingrediants?

>>2469472
>Old mobile home frame beams make nice forms too. My bros use them often. I use heavier beam so my foundations are my forms
i am having trouble visualizing what you are saying? are you talking about the two ibeams that make the frame?... is this the form for a flat slab or the form for a ramp?

I have a 16foot trailer frame and i want to make a china wall for it. i havent really began thinking too much about the logistics for this, but this is my idea. 3 sheets of ply for the flat part and then a seam made of wood or concrete. i figure i would find two beams and bolt them to the frame for a support. i have a welder friend who could do any bracing for me.
i imagine the steeper i make it, the sturdier it will be.... or at least the less hard riders will slam into it*

what do construction companies do with wood used for form work? re-use it one or three times then trash it? use it till it breaks?

I am contacting local contractors to see if i can pay them to bring in fill material... should i ask if i can purchase thier old form wood as well?

also how do i find small time contractors in the area who do shit like driveways and sidewalks? i type in 'concrete contractor' into google maps and get like 3 total contractors in a 60mile radius

also how do i find small time contractors in the area who do shit like driveways and sidewalks? i type in 'concrete contractor' into google maps and get like 3 total contractors in a 60mile radius

>>2465823
how do i find local estate sales?

>>2468978
>Not as important on smaller stuff
why?

also concrete needs to be agitated to get ird of airpockets, yes?
i kept asking my helper to do this and he wouldnt. i would just jab into the freshly poured concrete with a piece of rebar a bunch of times and then start shaping and smoothing, is that adequate or even necessary?

^^^i just let him do it becuase i didnt want to trowel, he made it seem painstakingly labourus and then finally when i kicked him off the job and started trowling myself, it was easy!

>>2468885
i also did that method on the top of the first quarter i built. i let it harden a bit and then just used a screeed to dig out the excess. it worked out pretty welll.

*my first quarter was 6 ft tall, 8 foot wide, and my second quarter was just extending it another 4 feet wider... it came out pretty damn good aside my my helper doing some stupid shit.

fucking idiot. he insisted on getting the concrete smooth first and then trying to get it level and "skreeded" from there... of course using his eyeball as a level instead of a 2x4
WHY WOULD OBSESSIVELY SMOOTH IT OUT BEFORE IT IS EVEN LEVEL? WHAT THE FUCK IS WRONG WITH YOU?

>>2468860
>When you say you have access to rock do you mean gravel right?
yes, its about 3/8ths rock with a lot of left over tiny 1/8 or 1/16th rock. i would like to use a mix of that fine rock for the surface of the ramp. is that a bad idea?

also the rock is somewhat rounded, from what i understand it will be weaker... does that imply a big slab may crack easier or it will just weather away much faster? ...both?

preventing sag in a quarter pipe:

please explain to me why this is a bad idea for pouring a wall towards vertival, pic rel.
what if i poured one layer at a time... let it harden for an hour then poured the next layer, let it harden for an hour and then pour the next layer....
would each layer not bond well to the previous layer if there was a ~60minute break where it was allowed to harden?
what if i were to do thnner layers of concrete and give each layer 30 minutes to harden instead?
in a 6hour pour, i could have like 12 layers on a 6 foot quarter, the bottom layers being about a foot in elevation gain, middle layers around 6in in elevation gain, and final layers being only a few inches high each pour.

also why couldnt i do a pour in two days with a seam 2/3 up the ramp? surely a seam would be preferable to transition with an anti-pop lump in the center, aka sagging, ya?

>i used this method to build the last quarterpipe

>>2468854
>Wait so you're making your own concrete mix?
i have easy access to sand, rock and water, i buy portland cement from 15miles down the road and they even deliver. i have access to a bunch of barflys who will work for (free) weed, some are amazing workers, others are terrible workers.

>>2468848
>and you can still scrape it off at the end,
is that as easy as instructions mentioned here: >>2468799

note the mixer i have access to has aged concrete crud all over it. will that bang out with rocks?

>>2468803
neighbors have a mixer and a generator, but it is always a pain in the ass to borow tools. also fumes sometimes start collect in the pool when using generator in there, or especially when idling a vehicle. ill bring an extension cord.

>>2468799
>I don't understand why people do this mixing on the ground shit.
i only mix like 5-10gal of concrete at a time. it takes about 5minutes to mix up the rock/sand/cement, and then about 3 minutes of elbow grease to mix up that much concrete and water,
clean up: dilute whatever crud is left on the floor with water, scrape once with a shovel and the floor is good. (about 30 seconds)

what i should do is use the mixer to mix the dry ingrediants for me, but i feel that may get insanely dusty.... maybe just mix up a big dry batch of concrete all at once, then use mixer on pour day.

question: how long can concrete sit in mixer between cleanings, before it starts to harder to the crud coated walls? 1 hr? 4 hours?

>>2468779
>He doesn't know how to use a mixer
how do you quickly clean a mixer... i could probably youtube that
>no hose, just gallon jugs of water