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2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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>> No.256154 [View]

>>256135
Christ on a cracker... That's some serious expansion and damn fine weight retention...

Off to look up their other offerings...

Though my chosen handgun round is these:
http://www.buffalobore.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=283

200 grain .44mag wadcutters. That's a solid, cylindrical, lead hole-punch tearing your shit up.

>> No.256131 [View]

>>256126
I shouldn't have to.

But since you asked...

Many fools suggest using 12ga birdshot, claiming it'll act as a slug as close ranges but will scatter on impact with drywall.

The birdshot begins spreading quickly as it leaves the barrel, and it doesn't hit in one solid mass. It lacks the penetrative capacity of a proper defense round.

Birdshot cannot even penetrate clothing, in many instances. There's a REASON the FBI uses a minimum of (15", I believe?) penetration as their recomendation for defensive ammunition. Your goal isn't to hurt them. It's to penetrate to their central nervous system and remove the threat as quickly as possible.

>> No.256124 [View]

>>256121
Are you trying to make a point?

Even hollow-point pistol ammunition isn't as effective as 12ga 00 Buckshot, or even rifle rounds.

The pistol is a sidearm. Not a primary armament. Hollow-points made the best of a bad situation (ie: something has gone wrong if you're forced to draw your sidearm). They aren't magical "cop-killers" like the media likes to label them.

>> No.256117 [View]

Regardless of what ammunition you choose for home defense, there's one thing to remember:

IF IT'S STRONG ENOUGH TO PUT DOWN A THREAD, IT'S GOING TO GO THROUGH WALLS.

Period. End of discussion. Ammunition chosen for it's lack of wall-penetration will suffer for a lack of badguy-penetration.

A shotgun, loaded with buckshot (NOT birdshot), will do the job and put down an intruder with one shot with FAR more reliably than any handgun round. Handguns are made for carrying out in the world, not for home defense.

In the end, shot placement is key. Learn to control your firearm. Practice is not only important, but it's FUN, so you have no excuse to be incompetent with your home defense firearm.

>> No.252661 [View]

I would suggest against that particular engine. Might be more suited to a small go-cart or even one of those 4-wheel bicycle-cars.

The engines that come in the kits for motorizing bicycles are much lighter and more compact, and they're optimized for use on a bicycle. Don't forget, you have to rig the drive chain to the rear wheel (regular bicycle chain is NOT strong enough, I use #420), you have to rig the throttle and clutch, and you damn well better have good breaks.

If the motor was smaller, it could be good for a front-wheel friction-drive build, but that looks like more weight than I'd suggest having mounted that high. It'll fuck your balance, and on a motorcycle (or motorized bike) your balance point is of VAST importance to you're ability to not die while driving it.

>> No.252071 [View]

>>252068
Judging by the picture, a reverse screw is not going to work.

If the head simply snapped, sure, but this looks seized.

Torch and vicegrips are the way to go.

>> No.251483 [View]

>>251477
I understand you "forgot" to harden your drill-bits. I'm not faulting you for being forgetful.

But tempering them anyway? I just don't understand you, here.

Saying they ARE tempered, when they haven't been hardened, indicates that have NOT been tempered. Tempering is easing back the hardness and reducing internal stresses caused by the harsh, fast cooling process of hardening.

Unless you're referring to annealing? If not, anneal them, anyway. Twice, preferably. Then restart your whole heat-treat process.
Since nails tend to be cheap, soft steel, you could experiment with different quench media. Oil might cool it too slowly to get a decent hardness, so I'm going to put my money on water being your best bet.

Remember, being a drill-bit, do NOT harden the whole thing. Or, at least, temper the area that goes into the chuck considerably more than the actual cutting surface. A lot of people don't seem to understand that drill-bits are made to have a certain amount of flex so they don't snap.

That said, nice work on your wood-auger bit. I'm a fan of older style tools, as well.

>> No.251476 [View]

>>251450
>tempered
>not hardened

Do you work with steel, much? Because that's kinda like wiping your ass when you haven't taken a shit.

>> No.249556 [View]

>>249553
Grammar and spelling mistakes. Too late to give a flying fuck.

>> No.249553 [View]

>>249371
The plants that are used to produce the parts, and generate the power to operate, your computer with which you posted that commend have spewed more pollution into the atmosphere than a 2-stroke motorized bicycle can produce in it's expected lifespan.

>> No.244108 [View]
File: 142 KB, 799x597, ESEE4woodchuckhead.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
244108

>>244066
>>244078
>>244082
You're right, samefag. I've seen the error of my ways.

OP, you should melt your grandfather's sword down to scrap iron, and turn it into bullshit liberal "art". That's the only thing you can do with it, because this is /diy/.

Apparently ruining the value of antiquities is totally fuckawesome, so long as you're doing it yourself. My apologies for strongly suggesting you preserve your treasure for ANY reason. How silly of me.

>> No.243991 [View]

>>243848
Too late, bro. Apparently the popular opinion on /diy/ is "FUCK ANTIQUES HURR DURR THE PAST IS FAGGOTZ!"

>> No.243780 [View]

>>243761
>Presumptuous dick

Actually, there was no presumption at all. Try rereading the OP, there, boy.

>"im a bit tempted to just start sanding it with a dremel..."

That thought is the first one on the minds of pretty much EVERYONE who comes across a valuable antique with a little surface rust. And 100% of the time, it fucks the item's value FOREVER.

Piss and moan all you want. Sure, OP can do anything he wants, but only a disrespectful fool would purposely and knowingly deface a treasured piece of history, entrusted to them by a grandparent who no longer walks this earth.

It's not about "HURR DURR WEPPINZ R SPESHUL", it's about preserving memories, history, and value.

If OP wants a sword they can go cut random shit with, they'd be FAR better served to sell their inheritance to someone who could treasure it and take care of it, and use the money to purchase a sword of recent manufacture that has no collector value.

It's no different than if OP asked if he should paint over an inherited Rembrandt because he likes the frame but thinks that stencil of Andre the Giant's face is the epitome of art. There's just some things you don't do.

Anyone who disagrees, and sees no harm in OP completely destroying his inherited sword, truly has no values.

>> No.243712 [View]

>>243709
Meant to say reporting IN. It's too damn late.

>> No.243709 [View]

/k/ reporting it.

Don't fucking touch it.

If you cannot afford to have it professionally restored, then lightly coat the blade in oil (Mineral Oil is best and cheap as fuck) and...

LEAVE.

IT.

ALONE.

This is not a toy. This is not something you will need to sharpen and go hack away at bushes outside.

This is a war relic, a piece of your grandfather's life and of history itself. It deserves to be properly preserved, not screwed with by someone who doesn't know his ass from his elbow when it comes to swords, metalwork, or common sense.

>> No.241479 [View]
File: 244 KB, 850x564, 1331226700707.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
241479

>>241476
Not the worst idea I've heard, today...

Hmm....

>> No.240158 [View]

>>240150
If the chain is badly rusted, I'd suggest replacing it.

Fresh chain, tire tubes, and grips can be found at Walmart if you don't have a nice bike shop around.

Oh, and don't use WD-40 on the frame. Strip the whole thing down to parts, sand the frame, then paint as you see fit.

>> No.240130 [View]

WD-40.
Medium and fine steel wool.
Have at it.

>> No.239862 [View]

>>239782

How to cure cancer: Have sex with a goat.

Hot to cure AIDS: Have sex with a young virgin boy.

You can disregard this information, but then you might as well kill yourself because you're a fool who's bought into commercialized medicine! YEAH!

Plus, this is totally legit. I even cited the same amount of resources as the poster in OP.

>> No.238922 [View]

1) Buy pipe and some steel plate.
2) Learn to weld.
3) Use the most basic of engineering sense to recreate the pitifully simple item you've shown us.

>> No.238863 [View]

>>238783
I don't see why not. If they're good enough for our fighting men, they're good enough for you.

Though, for long term use, I would suggest the addition of a pad of some type.

I bought a Russian, roll-up cot mattress off Sportsman's Guide. They have a good military surplus selection, though the really good shit comes and goes.

It makes sleeping on the floor tolerable, though in conjunction with a cot I've gotten some surprisingly good sleep.

>> No.238669 [View]

>>238662
ITT: A complete lack of understanding of the female orgasm.

>> No.238658 [View]

Learn to swallow.

>> No.237907 [View]
File: 5 KB, 264x198, crtman.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
237907

>>237846
>>237893

See: >>237830

Pic related: It's our crying little troll.

Seriously, it's always the guy who calls everybody a faggot that turns out to be a closeted homosexual. Are you trying to tell us something? Is this a call for help? Are you morbidly obese and have no one to tell you to put the fucking sandwich down? Are you shoveling bacon and Little Debbie snack cakes into your face as you read this?

My reasoning isn't your problem. Maybe I AM fat, does that bother you? Maybe I have medical problems. Maybe I work in an office and it's frowned upon to walk into my workspace covered in sweat from pedaling 7 miles in 100+ degree summer weather.

If I wanted advice on my health, I'd be in /fit/.
If I wanted to commute to work on a vehicle I put together in my garage, I'd be on /diy/.

Well shit, will ya look at that...

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