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/diy/ - Do-It-Yourself

Search: pony

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>> No.1493802 [View]

Just exchange those bitches. Pony up for 2 tanks in the beginning, pay the $80, and then whenever one runs out you can stop by Walgreens and swap it out for a full one for like $17,

I know of a few places that will refill the tanks on site, but it’s not even worth the time to get it for $15 instead of $17, especially considering everywhere has exchanges but only a few places will refill.

>> No.1489967 [View]

>im the guy who ran over your faggot fuck pony op
>also im stuck under a folding chair help

this is the future you chose

>> No.1489924 [View]

im the guy who ran over your faggot fuck pony op

>> No.1481995 [View]
File: 189 KB, 513x286, Oujznpw.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Oozing will always occur, it's the nature of gravity and a semi-liquid substance. Plastic at glass transition is too cool to push through a nozzle.

Nigga there's so much better places to order cheap filament than from China. Pony up the extra 5 dollars and buy like literally anything else. I regularly get 1kg US made spools for like 10-15 USD through sales/boxes/grab bags. Makergeeks has meh customer service, it's getting better it seems, I get replies back if something is messed up, but their raptor PLA is amazing, I have some PETG as well but haven't printed much with it yet.

0.6mm nozzle, 0.4mm layer height, 2 shells no infill. Buy an a ender 3 for 180bucks and churn them out at probably 10/15min each. Redesign slightly to simplify and to accommodate the larger layer height and you might bring it down further. How experienced are you with printing? UM's are pretty user friendly, would you have the experience to set up your own printer and slicer settings?

Or give up and tell them to figure it out themselves. This is one of those points where you might look back and wish you had taken the plunge to get more personally involved in 3d printing.

>> No.1468896 [View]
File: 3.52 MB, 4032x3024, 20180914_140313.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Closer view of the area where the pony wall is.

>> No.1468892 [View]
File: 3.38 MB, 4032x3024, 20180914_140231.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Would like to frame out this basement area with a flat wall, but the outer edges of the basement in the above-grade section go out 8-10 inches(roughly half of which is filled with existing pony wall and fiberglass insulation).

I would like to put XPS foam sheeting up against the foundation wall and frame inside that, but I assume the gap behind it on the upper half would lead to severe moisture problems.

Anyone got any advice on how to accomplish this?

>> No.1461278 [View]

>Why WOULDN'T you buy it?

Because its 300$ BEFORE restoration, and its a physically large one trick pony that isnt practical for most people.

>> No.1460275 [View]
File: 22 KB, 868x141, implyingshitposter.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Not that guy, but there's plenty of instances in the archives of kevin van cockface having conversations with bepcuck in some sort of schizophrenic rage because no one else was replying to him in the thread.

I like how he also claims he's too lazy to drop his trip to post here, but he has not problem switching between multiple ID's. The guy is an all talk no pony faggot. I don't understand why he's tolerated on a board that, since its inception, has rejected tripcunts with furious rage.

>> No.1453284 [View]

I'm remodeling a 2br cuck shed and the amount of mental retardation in this thread is really making me feel better about how things are going. So far I've got the original hardwoods refinished, replaced most of the old ungrounded wiring, cut the doorway between LR and kitchen into a cased opening with a pony wall and bar top, and about done with remodeling the kitchen. I still need to replace all the windows, replace front door, repair/replace siding, re-line the chimney, add attic insulation, add some bracing to one of the basement walls, cut back a lot of overgrown trees hanging all over the house, rebuild the porch... Shit is going to take me years and at least $20-30K to finish.

I don't know if I'll ever do this shit again but it is a good learning experience.

>> No.1428786 [View]

I have a My Little Pony card from Chase bank.

And if you can't tell, I'm american too.

>> No.1427800 [View]
File: 486 KB, 1200x800, DSC05885.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

So I forgot that Ardupilot has pitch reversed compared to fucking literally everything else, so I'm now rebuilding it with new landing gear & antenna mounts that broke when it immediately crashed after getting airborne for the first time. Ardupilot devs confirmed biggest fucking trolls in the RC world.

I did want to replace the landing gear with something of a wider stance like this anyway, but I was planning to fly more than 10ft before doing it.

>the most popular FPV youtuber, UAVFutures, almost strictly uses a Flysky/Turnigy TX

He's a shameless shill who uses whatever he is paid to use or thinks he can rake in the most affiliate cash from.

The main reason why the Taranis is so commonly recommended to new pilots, even though it seems like a lot of money to them, is that once you have it you will literally never need nor want to replace it. Coupled with the fact that it's not actually that much more expensive than the alternatives, plus that FrSky's actual protocol performs better & that their range of receivers is far better than anybody elses', it really is false economy to buy anything else.

Essentially, you either want to go absolute budget & buy some $30 trash, or you want to pony up $115 for a Taranis - anything inbetween is pointless.

>> No.1427411 [View]

whats the best/economical/cheapest way into CNCing aluminum stock no smaller than a receiver? I'd like to use the mill for other projects as well. The Meme Gunner seems like a one trick pony, but I might be mistaken. From my recollection, it can't do 0% lowers.

Can a CNC mill be kicked over to manual mode if I want to smooth out stock before running it through the program? I'm a complete noob and have only used a CNC mill once years ago.

>> No.1417052 [View]
File: 89 KB, 720x960, betterthanbaofeng.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

"8 watts" (probably 5 in reality) is a lot to put right next to your face.

UV5R is a decent babbys-frist-ham-radio. The UI is fuckawful, chirp makes it at least tolerable, it'll do what you need it to do as a ham radio, but it's a shitty radio. There's a reason they're $30.

If it's something you're serious about, pony up the cash and go for a Yaesu, Kenwood, Icom, etc. The cost is worth it.

>> No.1408128 [View]
File: 106 KB, 544x532, orange_camo.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


pony poster!

>> No.1407633 [View]

>The only way to do that to code is to rewire the house. Not sure I'm up to that unless the benefits are worth it, which is why I'm researching the benefits of having a grounding conductor in GFCI outlets.

The real benefit is if you ever decide to sell the house in the future, you're going to have to pony up the dough to do it anyway. It's hard to sell a house that has outdated wiring. A soccer mom hears old wiring and thinks that her kids are going to die in an electrical fire within 20 minutes of moving into the house.

I ended up getting 9k off on my house during negotiations because it had knob and tube. Did all the work myself and it cost me about $500 to rewire because it's an unfinished basement and everything was easy to get to. Upstairs only had like 3 outlets in in because the house is old so that was a little more work but everything was fairly easy due to the kneewalls. I did end up having to pay an electrician $500 to come move the meter socket outside though. Power company refused to turn off the power unless it was a contractor doing the work despite having no documentation that stated that anywhere.

>> No.1407400 [View]


not fraud, fines

if he put gauges on it, it requires a license. though any refridgeration guy can tell if a system is low just buy blocking airflow on the on the evap coil like with a piece of cardboard.

only an idiot breaks out the gear and taps into a system if they don't have too because it can cause a leak.

i skimmed over the thread and am not sure what filter was purchased, an air filter or the one that requires all the coolent be pumped out and reclaimed, unsoldred and the the new one soldered on.

15 years ago when i was in the field my place of employment charged $60 an hour plus parts. i have no diea what rates are like now.

if the capacitor was for the pump there is no way around it. for a fan/blower, sometimes a pony motor is a cheaper way to go and they last longer, but thats more for walk in coolers than air conditioning.

>> No.1407389 [View]

I'd stick to trail cams and isolated systems that you'd check if something happens.

Or pony up and get some Cat5 wire. It's only 6 cents a foot on Amazon. Phone line should be next to free. Bury that and cable and electric at the same go.

>> No.1383237 [View]

My plan is to just buy enough parts that I rarely ever need to get more parts.
I mostly do electronics, and I don't think I've gotten a single project done since radioshack closed down.

What I have found though is that I can buy a assortment of 840 transistors for like $15, 50 op-amps for $5, 300 LEDs for $5, and so on for the rest of the usual parts like resistors and capacitors.
I figure I'll just pony up $50 and be done with buying anything but specialty parts.

>> No.1378126 [DELETED]  [View]

>website is kill
ripperoni in pippy's pony

>> No.1345337 [View]
File: 104 KB, 960x720, 1518131651933.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I used to work at a rock quarry. Boss was a hardass.

>yall lost a 10mm socket. No moar tools reeeeeeeee!

Anon drops sledge into running jaw crusher. That motor... it takes a crane to get it out and a semi to haul the jackshaft. It does not fuck around.

F for hammer.

Fortunately at a rock quarry you are standing on natures hammers so we just used them.

One day anon found an odd rock at his house and beat on shit. Discovered it won't break. So, as a joke he brings it to work and throws it in the service truck.

We use it for about a month with some success.

>time wasted beating on shit like Fred Flinstone over buying a hammer must have been thousands of dollars in downtime.

>Total fucks given = 0.

Boss shows up to try and ramrod a 2 day job.

>give me a fucking hammer! Reeeeeee!


Bossman we aint got one.

>wtf! Bullshit open the hammer drawer! Reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!

Anon opens it and boss sees rock.

>reeeee wtf reeeeeee ......REEEEEEE!
>you faggots cant pony up $10 for a fucking hammer?

I said "just be lucky we don't have one you hateful fucking prick cause i'd shove it up your ass."


Got 3 days off. Used it to job hunt. Best descision i ever made.


>> No.1344737 [View]

KEK. You ever seen the "clean" watter comming out of the plant bro? A buddy used to inspect them. Like 30% don't pony uo to shitty government standards even

>> No.1341290 [View]
File: 17 KB, 900x771, liftfoil-efoil-usd12000-electric-hydrofoil-surfboard-3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Oh no. Buying a spot welder soon and and I only roll samsung or panasonic anyway.

For little dickoff projects i ise busted laptops bit for something like this i will pony up for quality.

That small motor gets my also. I was considering a larger one or maybe run dual motors

>> No.1339096 [View]
File: 179 KB, 720x1280, Screenshot_20180225-155856.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Lol anon. Nail guns are dangerous as fuck.

Been using these for decades. No offense but if you can't pony up the $200 for it you can't afford nails anyway. https://m.lowes.com/pd/Bostitch-3-25-in-28-Degree-Framing-Nailer/1000301545

>> No.1337168 [View]
File: 95 KB, 1000x1000, metallics-snap-loc-tie-down-straps-bungee-cords-slcflsds3-64_1000.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Pony up for some 3" lag screws, not the shit shortys that come with most kits.

Pre drill in center of stud or if using an impact: screw in 3/4" then back it out 1/2" and repeat until that fucker is tight.

The wall will come down before the tv will.

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