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2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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2765263 No.2765263[DELETED]  [Reply] [Original]

Finna leave soon

21 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2765588

do you get anything for state assisted suicide? like a last meal? hospital care? because I'm thinking you could milk that system repeatedly and back out a the last minute.

>> No.2765640

Shallow water whiteout

>> No.2765642


>> No.2765661

Jump from a big-ass building, make sure you go head-first like a diver. Do a flip for points.

>> No.2765670

The public transit system in my city has trains which have big fuckin wheels on em. Yours might too. I'd lay with my neck on the track, after sundown, in a spot where I'm not easily seen until it's too late like around a turn, in one of the sections of rail by the highway where they get up to 50mph. Had this as my escape plan for a long time. I've inspected the trains nonchalantly and I'm confident it'd take my head clean off. no way it'd push me out of the way somehow even if it slowed down. The front "bumper" is high above the ground. it could probably slice through 3 people stacked on top of one another without even touching the bumper.

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2765135 No.2765135 [Reply] [Original]

retards on lease are making us remove our window units. any clever ways to hide them from the outside or perhaps run them inside with hidden ducts that blow outside?

5 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2765255

Get a used one on Craigslist or something. If you want to be ultra cheap about this I don’t see any other workarounds.

>> No.2765810

Spray paint it the color of the building

>> No.2765813

>retards on lease are making us


>> No.2765868

Get the kind with two hoses. They hook into a dual-port window insert that has the two squished into oblong slots.

Single duct units are drawing (cool) air from the inside of the room, and blowing it outside as heated air. Two duct units exchange the outdoor air separate from indoor air. Kind of like how your window unit works, but with In and Out hoses attached to the back half, to bring the whole unit indoors.

> can i build this into a closet

If you're going to go through that trouble, get a preloaded inverter minisplit from Mr Cool or Panasonic. Check out Will Prowse's youtube, he goes over how to install prefilled and non-prefilled hose units.

You'll have to put the outdoor unit somewhere, but they are half the size of a conventional heat pump exchanger, run super quiet, and can be mounted in a number of locations. Perhaps you can hide it in the attic if you have a vented, pitched roof. That's yes typically where a conventional unit goes but this is DIY, and avoids the ducting issues.

>> No.2765885

Just draw a big blue star of david on it, then they won't dare question you since it would be antisemitic to do so

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2764963 No.2764963 [Reply] [Original]

Is this a good deal for a shop fan, or is there some drawback I'm not seeing?

2 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2764997

*slaps the hood*
That'll chop a lot of dicks, rabbi!

>> No.2765008

Can you imagine how satisfying it would be to remove the guard, sharpen the blades on that thing, let it get up to speed, and just feed in sticks of pepperoni and watch them get sliced up
You’d probably end up losing a couple of fingers though

>> No.2765100

circulating hot air doesn't do much to cool - an enclosed space needs to be ventilated with hot air going up and out the roof and fresh air coming in the windows

>> No.2765104

looks like a good deal to me, idk if I'd trust those wheels though

>> No.2765188

Harbour fright would add that as a freature:

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2764913 No.2764913 [Reply] [Original]

Best trade job for picrel?

1 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2764942

NEET trucker hybrid lifestyle always did seem comfy

>> No.2765610

Drone pilot. Might as well blow shit up, in real life.

>> No.2765662

painter or pool cleaner

>> No.2765663

do you even know what NEET stands for?

>> No.2765928


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2764873 No.2764873 [Reply] [Original]

I found a 'for sale by owner' house ($75k) and was considering just going to the courthouse and doing a warranty deed.
Is there any issues I should be aware of with this approach?
I called a title company and they said a warranty deed wouldn't mean anything unless they do it and if the guy decides to take out a $100,000 loan against the property the day before, I would be responsible.
Anyone ever have any experience with this kind of thing? The title company seems to insist that I go through them and get a clean title and title insurance, but it seems kind of pointless if the warranty deed will do the same thing.

11 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2765359

>I try to minimize interactions with government employees if at all possible.

One of the rarest but best joys in life is having to deal with a government employee who is helpful and competent. Or any large organization for that matter. Someone who speaks english without an indecipherable accent is becoming rare as well: "could you repeat that?". "I'm sorry, I have a really bad connection, could you repeat that very slowly". "GODDAMNIT IS THERE ANYONE THERE WHO SPEAKS FUCKING ENGLISH"

>> No.2765761

Did you know since the covid forbearance stuff, that there are sneaky little second liens on the end of some mortgages which aren't even on the title? All those mortgage payments they didn't make? It got tacked onto the end of the mortgage invisibly. It's a huge scandal and it's all going to blow up in the news in a few months when banks start coming round for their money.

>> No.2765871

If your attitude is shit, which is kind of evidenced by your post, you will always get shit service.

If your attitude is not shit, if you're not a victim/victimizer complex (j or one of the golems they created out of your people), if you are sovereign, you come in there with dignity. And if they are having a bad day - diplomacy.

THIS IS THE COUNTY you want to get a house in. If the clerk is shit, it tells you a couple of things:

Have you tried someone else (same county) that is more competent?

Does it reflect on the type of staff in general, and so why would you want to get property in a county so-run?

IF the staff and/or politicians are shit, maybe you will get a screaming price for the property, because no one else wants to put up with the buffoonery. Or, and... you should have several 'plan B', 'plan C' counties.

Start researching these areas, drive around in them. Get a feel for them. Talk to the locals.

No one needs an egotistical jerk.

>> No.2765927

>having a nice open source database that a person can search for available properties to see if there are any they are even remotely interested in before wasting their time as well as everyone elses time at the courthouse is a terrible idea you egotistical piece of shit!!!!

Uh ok.

>> No.2765945

> more gay bla bla bla, because you're not man enough to carry on a conversation with a clerk.

Is there any other retard genes hidden inside you, or is that about it?

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2764842 No.2764842 [Reply] [Original]

What is the maximum weight I could hang from the very center of this structure? The e/w beams are either 2x8 or 2x10. Imagine there are 14 2x4 rafters running n/s (drawn in miniature on the left there)

9 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2765109

basically turn your roof framing plan 90 degrees. you only need 4 posts for a roof that size. on the highest side that you want open, you have a beam across the two front posts. at the back you have 2x8s spanning the rear two posts. then you put you "truss" members running between the two end headers and lay up your purlins on top.

>> No.2765113

This post is exactly why you should state what you want to achieve instead of asking if how you want to do it is fine. If I knew it was for a metal roof the answer would have been different. You can often do 24 o.c. with purlins if you keep the purlins not too far apart.

>> No.2765116

>The 2x4s spanning 5 ft spaced 16" are fine, but how does it work in addition to being on top of 2x10s spanning 20' spaced 5' apart.
If you're going to be thorough, you'd basically have to follow the point load from where it is secured to where it is supported. In this case, you secure it to a 2x4, which is then supported on each end by 2x10s, which are then supported on each end by 4x4s, which are then supported by what should be some concrete footings or piers of some kind. The presence of the rest of the structure is more or less forgettable.
Without going through the rigors of calculating the maximum capacity of the individual members, the 2x4 that you'd be attaching the block & tackle to would be the likely weak point. Either way, you're already pushing what the timber is intended to handle.

>> No.2765120

Will the top be attached to a structure or is it free standing? Did you calculate the wind load? Upwind could be a big concern.

>> No.2765148

I already know the metal roof will be fine, what I'm really curious about is how much I can load the pulley with

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2764775 No.2764775 [Reply] [Original]

I'm making a radio-controlled Su-25

>> No.2764783

Nice, but there is an RC General... People are going to get ticked off that this thread is not a contained post.

>> No.2764788

>People are going to get ticked off that this thread is not a contained post.
Those people can kiss my radio controlled ask.


>> No.2764799

edf or jet?

>> No.2765023

cool I'm making a radio controlled patriot battery. you should fly over me some time.

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2764749 No.2764749 [Reply] [Original]

I bought this knife to attach it to my MTB frame and carry it around for dog safety, but the handle is very bright and might get too much unwanted attention. The handle is plastic (PPE) I want to dye it but I don't know what to use I don't want to make it sticky or messy any recommendations? Btw I'm open to other solutions if you wanna help.

30 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2765795

>Address how you are going to do anything but piss the dog off with a knife.

You could have fun with his eyes, mouth, and nose while he's killing you.

>> No.2765797

and ears. ears could be a cool access port to his tiny brain. Granted pit bulls seem to be stupider than a fruit fly, if someone was probing the inside of my skull via my eyes and ears I might think about getting the hell away.

>> No.2765907

>dog safety
I like it better when only Americans post here

>> No.2765911

Ok cletus

>> No.2765925

I bet you like it better when only Romanians post here

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2764683 No.2764683 [Reply] [Original]

I want to get my home wifi signal out to my car which is parked a few floors down in the back lot of my apartment building. I have almost line of sight to my car via my bedroom window, so my plan is to beam wifi down to it with a directional antenna connected to a wifi repeater (wifi repeater to avoid stringing ethernet through my apartment). Pic related are a "Rockspace Upgraded AC2100 Repeater" and an "Alfa network APA-M25 Antenna", both purchased very cheaply as refurbs arriving tomorrow. The repeater does not have standard RP-SMA antennas I believe, so I'll open it up to solder on an antenna connector. Both devices claim to be dual band (2.4GHz and 5GHz), for the antenna does that mean that it transmits both 2.4GHz and 5GHz at the same time through the same single input connector? Or would that require two antennas, one per frequency? For the wifi repeater, is it likely going to have separate 2.4GHz and 5GHz antennas on the PCB? If so, could I connect both to the single antenna just by grouping them, or can I only connect one frequency to the antenna? Thanks, all help is appreciated.

8 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2765000

repeaters r trash use eop with wifi

>> No.2765067

The repeater will be located in a spot with already good signal, it doesn't need to boost signal at all so I'm sure it'll suffice. Powerline wifi adapters are multiple times the cost.

>> No.2765115
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i got picrel cheap ass 2.4ghz "300mb/sec" chink shit for literally 4 bucks. it's some 15m to my garage; I get low tens mb/secs. can't be arsed to spend more.

>> No.2765163

Just use a Pringles can.

>> No.2765608

This. Modern omnis and wifi units are surprisingly powerful. We have one at work for a DMZ'd wifi - it's just a home-gamer, 3-omni unit. We're on the 4th floor of an office building and I was shocked as hell to find I could pull a decent signal downstairs, OUTSIDE of the building, across an alley, through a fucking parking garage and still load (slowly) a webpage, nearly one block away.

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2764650 No.2764650 [Reply] [Original]

The powerlines are free to tap into, the power company just doesn't want you to know.

>> No.2764720


>> No.2764721

Remodeling a house for a customer. Need to remove 220 base board heater, no breaker for it wtf.
Flip main, still hot…scratch head.
Previous owner ran wires out wall and tapped into main underground.

>> No.2764722

more like a BASEDboard heater

>> No.2764732

Kek…new owner called power company. Dummy

>> No.2764798

That's just corporate speak

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2764644 No.2764644 [Reply] [Original]

Stuck living in a place with a gas stove and a ductless range hood. Every time I cook the entire house smells like Mercaptan. Renting so I can't tear into any walls. How can I properly ventilate the place so I don't wreck my health.

13 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2765753

Offer the landlord to do it yourself properly?

If your really want to jury rig, you could remove the old hood, and make a small box on top of a low profile vented hood so you can get a rectangular duct to the side under your cabinets with some non permanent connection (tesa powerstrips). Then connect that to the window with more ugly ductwork. Will look like total shit, but you can put it all back as before when you leave.

>> No.2765948

So OP can imagine cooking a wholesome meal on it (or having his woman do it) and order chinese anyway, like any other city rentoid.

>> No.2765963

it's pure grift. ranges need "ventilation," so a fan that leads nowhere technically fits while achieving nothing

>> No.2765987
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I live in Canada and my range doesn't even vent outside.
MFW i changed the overhead microwave and saw that.

>> No.2765997
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2764637 No.2764637 [Reply] [Original]

how do you get homeboy out in 27 hours, /diy/? i think with more know-how they could have saved this retard.

79 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2765942

>Based McFuck's punishing subhumans for buying their swill.

You missed the final part retardo-kun.

>> No.2765981

And it was all well and good until some old bat thought she could juggle and drive at the same time.
Ser4ves her right for being a stupid boomer.

>> No.2765984

>the law
You an just say judaism.

>> No.2765989

I've got no idea. You can't break his legs or he'll die, you can't pull him out, and you can't cut him out, so he's unfortunately dead like that guy who was run over by a train and still alive until they moved it. All you could do is let him talk to his family.

>> No.2766013


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2764594 No.2764594 [Reply] [Original]

Petrol Tractors built after 1965 are objectively Gay
>our diesels aren't good enough yet
Skill issue

>> No.2764595

Fuck I uploaded a selfie

>> No.2764700

That a perkins? Cause it sure looks like one.

>> No.2764707

Only the best not blow my trumpet
(i am rpign a Perkins engine)

>> No.2764862

Some people bitch about them but i have had good luck with perkins diesels. Had one in a 6610 hesston swather that always ran great. Have one in my caterpillar v80d forklift that starts good in the cold and runs great, and just got a new holland skid steer not too long ago that has a perkins in it too.

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2764593 No.2764593 [Reply] [Original]

Does the USA have anything like this? I come here and realize electricians have been gatekeeping for job security.

15 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2765817
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>I'm extremely disappointed in US electrics now that I've witnessed this.

Then go back to nipland and enjoy the superior electrics.

>> No.2765818

"this gun is heavy"

some COD player turned merc

>> No.2765908
File: 257 KB, 1200x1200, fixt.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Ok so when you are a Nippon rentoid, the apartments don't come with lamps in them. You get these sockets on ceilings where you screw in an entire light fixture.
>electricians have been gatekeeping for job security.
American fixtures are held by 2 screws, and 2 or 3 wire nuts. If you get filtered by this task, I hope the electrician charges you 10x the normal rate as he is obviously a better person than you are and will be better of using that money than you will ever be.

>> No.2765920
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oh just please shut the fuck up

>> No.2765930
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2764513 No.2764513 [Reply] [Original]

I was thinking about making an axe head out of railroad tie plate by cutting out the marked pieces. Any other recommendations on how to do it? How should I fix it to a handle?

>> No.2765026

why have you censored the steel?

>> No.2765036

I have just removed everything that isn't axe

>> No.2765037

Please put this back. There is a good reason that stealing railroad parts is a felony.

>> No.2765038

It was trash in a trash pile

>> No.2765063

dude, I'm not him, but literally no one cares.

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2764433 No.2764433 [Reply] [Original]

Hi /diy/,
This drain assembly keeps leaking at the circled region.
Multiple things drain here:
The laundry sink
The washing machine
Kitchen sink

Water is seeping out of the circled connection when the kitchen sink/dish washer is in use

How can I stop this leak? Can I add some glue to this seepage region? Or does all of this PVC piping need to be replaced?

This house was built in 74 if that matters.

11 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2764811

Sorry so I wanted to ask, since it is the kitchen sink/dishwasher that drain through this pipe that is leaking, and that is in the main floor and this photo in op is in our basement under our laundry sink, then I guess I'll be trying to unclog from the kitchen sink?
Or could be I attempt to unclog from the laundry sink?

Also which is the best product to use for either chemical or snake type product?

>> No.2765024

Without a cleanout you’re kinda fucked
They sell this drain cleaner inna jugbthats in a heavy plastic bag. The shits mean.
I think its Muratic acid

>> No.2765082

You got a good plan, and I salute you for at least having a logic flow.

First, do you have a power drill and do you have a snake/auger? If the answer is no to either or both, I would highly suggest you spend the 20 bucks and find a 15' or 25' auger with handle and drill bit attachment.

Second, find the drain that is closest to this drain fixture OR has the clearest lateral line to this fixture. You're going to want the least amount of resistance when feeding the auger line into the drain.

Chemical will likely not unclog, and even if it does, you're going to want the auger to fix this in the inevitable future clog.

If you don't want to mess around with new PVC fixture, or cut into the existing, I would wait till this drain fixture is as dry as possible. Once you think it's dry, apply a coating of sealant around the entire circumference of the leaky area. Dry it with a hair dryer if necessary. Like the other anon said, there won't be any pressure but if the clog happens again, it'll fill up and find the weakest point to escape.

Lastly, make sure your drains have catches for debris. Mesh sock on the washer drain tube, strainer in kitchen sink.

Good luck

>> No.2765108

So on alot of old houses they replaced the clay tile drain with plastic by showing the new into the old.
Thank me later

>> No.2765258

Do NOT use drano on that line. You should really snake it, but if you can’t do that you’d be better off with some concentrated vinegar. He’s suggesting it’s clogged because… well think about, how would an empty pipe leak? Generally if a drain line is leaking a significant amount of water it’s at least partially clogged at some point, causing a back up during peak usage that then drips out when the pipe is full.
You can try to flex seal/marine glue the fuck out of it, but cutting out a PVC coupling and replacing it isn’t THAT expensive. Can be done for less than 50$.
If you want to be cheap I’ve had luck with that temporary silicon tape. I’ve used it plenty of times on drain lines to keep them dry until I have a chance to get the parts/time to do a proper repair. Seeing as this looks easily accessible it wouldn’t be a bad solution until you find something more permanent.

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2764410 No.2764410 [Reply] [Original]

What's the best tool for the job? I need to cut pic related rubber sheets into the shape shown on the left. I was either think of making my own press, own punch, or buying one of those desktop machines like cricut. Any suggestions?

8 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2764498

"Best" depends on how they will be used; if you want separate units that can be packaged/shipped uninstalled, a steel rule die can cut the shape and leave the release liner so its like its own sticker.

If you will be applying lots of them in a production setting then cutting them on a digital knife plotter will let you nest them to minimize scrap and saves the considerable tooling cost of making a steel rule die...also lets you adjust sizes or modify the shape as needed u likeva die.

>> No.2764537

Need to be that shape

I'm drunk cut me some slack

Ironically I tried cutting them on my 12w laser cutter. The rubber is so dense that it fused back together as soon as the laser passes. For reference, I use the same laser cutter to cut 5mm plywood in a couple passes no problem

That looks like what I need, idk how I'd make my own die though

Applied to another thing I make, production setting

>> No.2764940

Yes silicone or butyl rubber just don’t laser cut well, melting point is too low, it’s highly toxic too if I’m not mistaken

Neoprene foam cuts well but also makes toxic fumes, PE foam is popular for cutting too

>> No.2764955

>Applied to another thing I make, production setting

A simple drum plotter will work, you may need to tape the material down on a carrier sheet with sprocket holes to run the material...then just peel the individual parts off the completed sheets when applying on the assembly line.

Another benefit for a business is that the same plotter can cut vinyl for labels/lettering and make masks for painting/etching, and can plot out drawings with a pen.

This one is on the low end price wise and will do up to 3mm-


>> No.2765015

A press and a die for the best results. Preheating the work piece will result in a cleaner cut.

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2764313 No.2764313 [Reply] [Original]

/diy/ing a business
I don’t want to come across as a schmuck, but I am a semi capable person with two businesses in reach of myself. One is a signage business, the other is a food business.
Both have great potential, I currently work in the sign industry and would like to make more money. Even if I leave my current role I have access to all the required equipment.
The latter, the food business, is something I have dreamt of for literally 10 years now. I have a product I am able to make, in the 4000~ items per month at current capacity with the equipment on hand, and growing to 100’s of thousands would be no scaling issue because it would require no more space and not much more equipment.

The food business could potentially be worth indefinitely more than the signage, despite my acquaintances in the space already regarding me as a competent craftsman and willing to provide me with endless work.
One is a path of linear progression, the other, food, is a path of exponential growth.
I do not care about the income. I have self doubts about trying to achieve anything on my own.
I genuinely enjoy this board, so what has it taken you to go out and try your own thing? I do and don’t know what I need to get started, which might not make sense, but in a practical standpoint I do know what it takes, but in the theoretical I have so much self doubt it hurts.
What do. I trust you anons to a far great extent

1 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2764450

I’m not a businessman but I visit a lot of food factories for work and have some stuff to consider.

Food businesses may be very regulated or not at all depending where you are and what food you make, which can be a huge limiting factor in terms of scaling. If you need to meet very stringent reasons like frozen food in Europe (they get salmonella a lot) you may be looking at $300k+ in regulations investments when you want to run or scale up a big line. In many countries employees can call in sick at any time with a minor cough or diarrrhea to prevent guy bacteria spreading. Different story if you produce eg potato chips in Guatemala which is pretty much regulation free afaik. US is a bit inbetween, fda stuff is pretty okay, except maybe for dairy products

So it’s definitely worth doing some research, rules may be on federal, state or even local level, if you export there may be additional, foreign rules too.

>> No.2764457

>I've never worked in food, but I know I could make millions!

Look around. How many people succeed in food? It's not what you think it is.

>> No.2764626

Based, thanks anons, a lot to think about now. Doing food seems like it would require too much investment before even making the first batch

>> No.2764823

>The food business could potentially be worth indefinitely more than the signage, despite my acquaintances in the space already regarding me as a competent craftsman and willing to provide me with endless work.

Ha, whether it was autocorrect replacing "infinitely" or a Freudian slip, "indefinitely" is really important here.

Of all the businesses where nothing is definite, food related businesses are at the top...some may be more stable than others but the success rate for startups is dismal, especially when you consider that literally everyone needs to eat.

Signage can be a great business but the reality of it is that the vast majority of the work that keeps sign shops busy and growing is in support of business operations of one sort or another and/or entities that are subsidized by tax dollars.

When the general business climate takes a hit, sign shops are the first to feel it both in overall demand and also when other companies begin to default on accounts...and sign materials and finished jobs aren't cheap or easy to re-sell.

As my old boss at the sign shop used to say, sign shops are like those remora fish that live by attaching themselves to big sharks and other hosts in a symbiotic relationship. If you see lots of remora thriving it means the big shark business is good, but if there's no hosts around to attach to, they are in trouble.

Add to that the fact that when things get lean, even though it's not a great strategy many businesses begin tightening their belts by cutting advertising, and signs are mostly advertising. Where I live businesses won't even replace signs obliterated by hurricanes since "everyone already knows where we are", lol

I can't speak to your particular situation but generally speaking sign businesses that think in terms of work being "endless" are usually in for a rude awakening.

>> No.2764974

Glad it helped. Be careful, so many businesses that are for sale are basically traps.

File: 2.67 MB, 4000x3000, Xperia tab z .jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2764286 No.2764286 [Reply] [Original]

Made a charger for my tab's dock port. It works but the problem is sometimes it charges faster and sometimes so slowly. why's that? Using a 67W adapter.

8 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2764460

Try shorting white and green

>> No.2764547

nope, doesn't seem to work.

>> No.2764729

>That's only for USB-C connectors,
There's two standards. USB Battery Charging (USB BC) & USB Power Delivery (USB PD). USB CD was introduced around the time of USSB 2.0 Power Delivery is newer, and introduced with C connectors.

USB BC uses resistors on the data line to indicate the preferred current draw and to stop the USB bus from going into low-power mode (assuming it's an active bus, not a simple USB charger). USB PD adds a whole bunch of additional features like the ability to control the voltage being supplied. PD requires a more sophisticated data exchange algorithm.

Given the device doesn't have any data lines it can't support PD. OP is *probably* using a simple USB charger that supports 2.1A or 5A charging, but without configuring it for BC he'll just get 100mA: the floating data lines might mean the charger sometimes delivers something else, I guess.

USB BC 1.2 spec: https://pdfserv.maximintegrated.com/en/an/TUT5801.pdf

>> No.2764730

(Sorry not the spec because that's a ZIP file from usb.org, but its a good overview of how BC 1.2 works)

>> No.2765933
File: 201 KB, 1600x1200, sony cradle.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Found this on an ebay offering.
So if page 3 of >>2764729 is correct, shorting D+ and D- tells the power brick to just fire away and give it maximum current, which would then be restricted to 1.8A inside the cradle.

File: 132 KB, 1200x800, ffiesta.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2764245 No.2764245 [Reply] [Original]

2009 Ford fiesta (manual transmission) wont start. It had been sitting in a garage for a few months unused while we were overseas. Came back and the battery was dead. We hitched it up to another car to try to tow start it (much the same effect as a push start or hill start), but it wouldn't turn over. Last night pulled the battery out and charged it all night. Put it in the car in the morning - all electrics seem to work, but when I turn the key to start the car - nothing. it's like the starter motor is not even connected. Could the starter motor be cooked? I've had a dead starter motor in a different car before, and was still able to push start/roll start the car every time. Any ideas? If it was just the started motor I would assume I could push start the thing, but didn't work.

32 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2765213

ChatGPT says:
>Given the circumstances, it's possible that the issue could be with the starter motor or other components related to starting the engine. However, it's also worth checking the ignition switch, fuses, and starter relay. If the battery is fully charged and the electrics are working, a mechanic's assessment may be necessary to diagnose the specific problem accurately.
>"PATS" stands for Passive Anti-Theft System. If your Ford Fiesta has PATS and there's an issue with the system, it could prevent the car from starting. Ensure that the key you're using is the correct one programmed for your vehicle. If the problem persists, consulting a professional or checking the vehicle's manual for troubleshooting steps related to PATS may be necessary.

>> No.2765269

>GPT recommends going to a mechanic
Artificial "Intelligence" my arse.

>> No.2765282


That locks up the tires easiest.
Use your 1:1 gear for best power transfer from rolling wheels to engine with least likely chance of spinning tires.

You dont drop the clutch and leave it, you get it back in as soon as the engine coughs. Or do it in first, skid tires as the engine chugs and you come to a stop.

>> No.2765366

If you let the battery sit drained for several months it probably is damaged. You can charge it but it won't give you the same cranking amps as a new one would.

>> No.2765375

>a few months unused
>pulled the battery out and charged it all night
>when I turn the key to start the car - nothing
Check your battery. Charging it overnight doesn't fuck all if it's old, sulfated, and left dead for months. Take it to any auto-parts store and have them check it. In the US, this is free absolutely everywhere. Given what you described, I'll bet the voltage is too low for it to actually do anything but turn on some interior lights.

>Google whether your car has a battery monitoring system and the reset sequence.
Not a concern in a 2009 Fiesta.

>Battery was more than 75% charged
Says who? Your charger? That shit means absolutely nothing, disregard it.

Best "advice" in this thread so far.