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/diy/ - Do-It-Yourself

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1184830 No.1184830 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I got a hole in my ceiling.
This was caused by a leaky roof, which has been fixed temporarily (they put a tarp over it).
The problem is that my mom won't fix the roof properly for a few months, so she refuses to get the ceiling fixed for fear of the tarp getting weathered/damaged in which case water would again drip and just ruin the ceiling again.
So I'm wondering if there is some way I can temporarily seal the hole because we have all sorts of critters in the attic (mice, raccoons, etc.) and I don't want them getting in my room, I've already ran into a couple close encounters.

33 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1185063

it's not my decision and i won't be the one doing it
will roofers charge extra on account of it not being fun

very cool brother

>> No.1185074

drag a full sheet of plywood up into the attic, and lay it over the hole from above. Problem solved. Next thread. You guys are really hopeless sometimes.

>> No.1185079

i can't do that because the attic is inaccessable
it never occurred to me how easy it would be if it was though, damn lol

>> No.1185125

Actually I just realized it had occurred to me
the reason that won't work is because the joists are clearly in the way
I came up with this idea while staring at the hole in my ceiling with the lights off, so all I could see was a big black hole, no joists
what's ur excuse for comin up with this birdbrained idea

>> No.1185163

am i the only one who still sees a hole in OP's photo. the little spot of the light in the roof?

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1184818 No.1184818 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I've got a project that involves cutting lots of 1" dia holes in 1.5" thick sheets of Styrofoam. The little particles get everywhere. Here are the things I've tried:

Making a punchout tool out of some copper pipe I had laying around. Works OK but the holes are ragged and foam crumbs get everywhere. Making a hot knife out of a wood burning tool I got at goodwill and some stripped solid core electrical wire. Works OK but it's slow as hell. Making a melting tool using a small section of the pipe heated with a torch. Works great but the heat is hard to control and leads to overheating which makes the holes too big. Hot knife v2 using a circular bit I made out of the pipe (pic related) and attached to the wood burner. Slow even when I drive the wood burner with a Variac at 140V but works best out of everything. I tinned the connection with solder to help heat transfer.

Any other ideas? Wood burner is 23W, I know a bigger heater would help. Would it help or hurt to cut more material off the tool I have now?

5 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1185172

Switch to a denser and less crumbly type of foam. Blue or pink foam.

>> No.1185178

Make a makeshift die and press, isn't that hard.

>> No.1185214

You made this exact same thread like 4 months ago. wtf

>> No.1185236

Cut a hole the size you want in metal plate, put that hole over the place in the styrofoam where you want the hole to be, melt styrofoam with heat gun.

Do not stick dick in heat gun.

>> No.1185240
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steel and battery, pivoted like a compass

Model plane folks use guitar strings for their foam cutters.

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1184788 No.1184788 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

My office chair died. The back's hinges snapped and now I'm left with a stool and a back.
Finding replacement hinges would be pretty hard because there's no branding on the chair so I don't know what model it might be
I'm left with a stool and a backrest.
Any ideas on how I might repurpose the back?
Or, also, how I might add a back to my stool.

>> No.1184804

Artsy office chairs tend to be weak, you might be able to weld that back in place, although cheap office chairs seem to be made out of shitty pot metal.

When the plastic armrest of my chair snapped I fixed it with aluminum plates and screws, but I don't think it's applicable to this situation.

>> No.1184810

Don't really have access to a welder or any other heavy duty equipment.
I think I'll just keep the seat to use when I'm playing guitar.
Probably gonna throw the back out.

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1184748 No.1184748 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Got this junk for free at a yard sale, planning on gutting it and turning it into a raspberry Pi classic game machine. Any tips?

8 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1184802

Ok I'll ask around and look into those, and my dad used to work on TVs so i called him up and we got it all removed.

And yea it's just shitty wood, nothing special at this point.

>> No.1185060

>got rained on hard before I got it

Just dry it out for a few weeks. There was plenty of room in those for dozens of pis so no need to gut anything.

>> No.1185067

depends on how old it is. I tore up one of these that was actually solid wood on the front panels and decent plywood for the top and sides and bottom. I tore out the guts and made a shelving unit/book case out of it. I had another one later that was MDF fake wood crap - that one went to the electronics recycle. and yet another one later that was pure plastic fake wood. that also went straight to the electronics recycle.

>> No.1185068 [DELETED] 

Fuck off back to your containment board >>>/vr/

>> No.1185070

This one's a mix between wood and panels, I think the original owners refurbished it at some point. If I get lazy or this project is too much of a bitch I might steal your idea for a bookshelf.

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1184720 No.1184720 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Welders of /diy/

Is this photo an example of multiple are tandem welding? Or is this just two separate single arcs (ignore the guy inside the pipe for arguments sake)?

Can SMAW even be used in a multiple arc method?

>> No.1184796

In the photo its two separate singles arcs. I only know of tandem or twin-arc welding with the SAW process.

tandem welding : 2 wires, both with there own power source. contact tips and wire-feed

twin-arc: 2 wires, one power source and they share a contact tip and wire-feed.

the 2 wires go in the same puddle.

>> No.1184801

This is common place in the trade industry. Two electrodes 2 grounds

>> No.1184809

We do this a lot at work and I was wondering

How does the current "know" which ground to come back to? Don't the currents mix up sometimes or something?
For a welder I shouldn't know this little about electricity.

>> No.1184812

Imagine filling a vertical pipe from two holes at the same height at the top. They're attached to the positive pressure end of separate water pumps each. The suction/negative ends are connected to two similar holes at the very bottom. The pipe is sealed, filled with water, and the pumps are run. All things being equal on both sides, they have the same current, _gravitational_ potential difference, and heat the pipe walls the same amount. Water molecules turbulently go wherever, but to the same effect.

The electrons in the electron sea of the metal you're welding to act the same way in the presence of their 'electron pumps' (voltage sources, in this case v. powerful ones).

>> No.1184820

That's a good way to put it
Thanks familam

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1184704 No.1184704 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

These handrails are rusting pretty bad. My plan is to use wire brush on a drill to get the bulk of it off followed by spot sanding and mineral spirits to clean. I already tested a small section and it seems the paint comes off easily, but there are about 10 layers of it dating back to the 50's so probably lead in there.
My questions are: Do I need to get every last bit of rust out of the pitting? And should I get spray paint to do the final coating or stick with a brush?
The final colors will look similar to how it is now, white for the bulk, and a pastel for the curly accents

18 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1185103
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So I had a dremel in the basement with one of those sandpaper rotating heads so I gave it a try and bam it got that paint right off. Turns out these handrails aren't at rusty as I thought, just caked with layers of old paint and some cracks. The curly parts are the worst, the white areas less so, but it still took hours because that wire attachment didn't work as well as I'd hoped, and I only got half of one rail done

>> No.1185112

because you're using the wrong tool. you need an angle grinder with a wire brush head, not a drill.

>> No.1185134


I once took the paint/ rust off this old guys rail on his front porch. Shit had like 5 layers of paint with rust in between them all. Had I not had an angle grinder and wire brush I would have lost so much labor scraping and applying naval jelly. Once you do that you'll be left with a few rusty pits and tarnish, hit it with some primer and hammered metal paint and it'll look brand fucking new.

>> No.1185138

I like your Christmas tree.

>> No.1185142

>angle grinder
This is an excellent suggestion and I'll go a bit further and tell you to get a cheap one with not a lot of balls. A fast grinder with a lot of torque will bounce you all over the place. Dangerously.
Too many rpms and you'll end up kinda polishing the good existing paint.
>You don't want fast and you don't want torque. You want to be able to bog it down.

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1184703 No.1184703 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Hey guys, I have this old "police" flashlight with the heat lamp, guess everyone does. Ever wondered to convert it into an LED? Have you ever done it yourself? Any tips? I was trying to search for a project of this sort, but did not really find anything good. Maybe didn't use the correct words.

pic related, the torch

5 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1184753

I live on acreage, so my 4D maglite is a daily use item.
I bought an $8 led bulb from Lowes.
Its 3x brighter and standard D cells last about a year.

There's a lot of different options, like
But if you just want the simple upgrade, it's as easy as changing out a dead bulb.

>> No.1184762

you mean other flashlights?

not a very impressive collection by CPF standards; couple of older 18650s, $5 cree lights, and a better version of those that also takes an 18650



^this one is usually the one I use the most, nice wide flood and plenty bright....although the single AA ones are great to have since the batteries are more readily available

the maglite is almost too bright to use inside, I wanted a good thrower if I go out walking at night....the module I chose is single mode, $20 shipped from dealextreme

>> No.1184806
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I have one of those old maglite. I made a Joule-Thief-like circuit and put a 3w led on it.
It works, but is not awesome. Not for a 2D cell at least.

>> No.1184807
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>> No.1185230

could you elaborate more on the circuit?

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1184692 No.1184692 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

hi guys, I live where there is little to no water at all (yeah, we're in a drought) So my idea was collecting rainwater in the most cheapest diy way possible. I've looked up some things online and they all mention purifying rainwater to drinking water. I only want it for showers and washing dishes...

Originally I was just thinking using tarp, a tube and a shirt to collect and filter said water, but seems like I'm going to need more than that... Any tips...?

(Yes, there will be pics of the build.)
>pic not related..

>> No.1184715

First look up your laws because many places have laws against collecting rain water, especially during droughts. Second, if you want to collect rain water without fucking over any soil that desperately needs it (as if there was a drought or something) I would make several smaller rain collectors that feed into pvc pipe that feed into a large container. It's a good idea to filter out the shit from your water but you probably want to use something better than a shirt. A window screen cut up and layered several times would work for all the big stuff.

To purify, you'll just want to use chlorine. You can put chlorine in water enough to purify it but also keep it safe to drink. You could boil it but it would take a long time to heat up to boiling point then a long time to cool down. Also de-oxygenated water sucks to drink for any extended period of time.

>> No.1184735
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I have pic related, only much larger, like a "fema" coffin (around 1000l in volume), connected to my gutters in my back yard, it's 3 meters over the ground, over a wood beam structure that also serves as a tool/broom closet. I have a hose running down from it into a tap.

I use the water to water the plants and wash things. You don't need to do much maintenance, only removing the sediment after a couple of years.

>> No.1184777

Well if OP is in a house the roof is prime space there for rain collecting.

>> No.1184793
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This. You could build a water tower with the inlet coming off the gutter downspouts into a sand/charcoal filter tank (pic related). The result would be safe for washing, or it could easily be treated further for drinking water.

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1184677 No.1184677 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Hi so i grounded my 5v voltage regulator for some noob reasons haha now i replaced it but my piano keyboard wont work well higher keys dont sound loud than lower keys= normal. which caps or resistor should i replace?. the pcb is Power supply and amplifier. :( please help me my keyboard is so important to me i can buy another one but this one has sentimental value to me.

>> No.1184683

Use propper punctuation and give detailed information if you want to be understood.

If you grounded a regulator that wasn't supposed to be grounded maybe it's loosing power throught the ground or not working properly.
If it works don't fix it.

I suppose your piano uses an external "brick" or "wall wart" PSU, check if the current rating and voltage of the PSU you're using is the same as the one you replaced.
Higher notes have higuer frequency and require more energy to drive the speaker, maybe your new PSU is underrated.

Btw. I don't know much about electronic pianos, but I haven't seen any piano powered by 5 volts, even small pianos I've seen run on 7 or 9 volts. Again, check the old psu's rating matches with the new one.

>> No.1184684

> implying not trole
> grounded regulator
You mean your wall wart, or the regulator on the circuit board inside the keyboard?

> something something keys not loud
Higher keys are quiet compared to the lower keys? Or not working at all?

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1184649 No.1184649 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Hey so this is a 1watt laser, runs off two 3.7 volts, i pulled it apart to repair the battery compartment, it was loose. I ended up having to replace the spring part that the negative part of the battery connects to, i put it in a base of soder. I have no idea why the beams so weak now, it was strong for about 50 secounds before it dimmed. The batterys are charged.Also the compartment with the diode heats up when its on, pic related. my best guess is somehow the current is connected to the casing making it weak, but i dont see anywhere thats possible. Any ideas on how to repair it?

>> No.1184654

Maybe the new spring and the solder puddle are causing excessive resistance. But that doesn't explains the 50 seconds before dimming. The diode heating up is kind of normal I guess, but not at such low power.
You maybe fried it somehow.
Many flashlights use the case as a conductor, which is fine, since aluminium is a good conductor.

Try taking the diode (and the driver board) out of the laser and test them with a PSU, if the problem persists something is wrong with the diode/driver. Be careful with polarity, the case is often used as the negative conductor.

>> No.1184657

thanks anon ill try that out

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1184645 No.1184645 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Spade Bits

8 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1184747

you can't call them that! it's racist!

it is 2017, get with the times

>> No.1184754

>not calling them paddle bits

also, forstner bits, hole saws, and paddle bits all have their own purpose. there is no superior bit for drilling

>> No.1184774

The broken one, 2nd from left, wouldn't that be a bit of spade?

>> No.1184953


We call them fly bits.

I don't know why

>> No.1185037

Paddle bits' purpose is being cheaper than forstner bits. Hole saws are good as long as you only have to drill shallow holes.

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1184621 No.1184621 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Anybody do any body work here? Haven't done much myself, but I'm restoring an old farm truck that's got some rotted rust holes, looking for suggestions for a decent MIG welder that won't break the bank and get the patchwork done. Thoughts on Harbor Freight or others?

Was looking at this one


Also tacking an aftermarket 3 inch exhaust together. Backup parts and enough wire to do the job, I wanna say budget is around $300-350 since it's not a regular thing, but willing to fork out a bit more if absolutely necessary. Have gloves, brushes, and clamps to start.

12 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1184808

You ain't gonna get an acceptable MIG welder for that budget, man. Trust me, I stick pieces of metal together for a living.
Either get a stick welder and git gud or save more money and look into used hobarts and such.

>> No.1184819

My main question about your statement I guess would be, are you going off of company tools, or are you speaking from a hobbyist point of view? Kinda like comparing Snap-on and Craftsman, they're both tools and generally do the job. Not questioning your experience, but if I just need a lower powered welder, what're the benefits, besides being more flexible?

>> No.1184821

I've seen those in action and they seem to work pretty well. I've watched some of ChrisFix's stuff, and he's not an idiot. I'd ask the folks at HF where they sell em, but they're not the brightest people around...

>> No.1184845

Can't really help you as I live across the pond. Proper tools are called kemppi, esab, Wallis, migtronic and the like. Yours probably differ. Also shit runs on three phase here so powerful welding machines in the 300-600€ category are quite common.

I second >>1184808 here. New machines in your price range are good for thin metals. Used bigger machines can be tricky to buy if you don't know the scene but usually they deliver. Not always though.
I don't know what kind of voltages and phasing industrial surroundings uses in your area but those are what I aim for. As every building over here has a 3~ plug somewhere it's easy to buy used industrial equipment, you know its always going to run at your home also. I don't know if the case is the same where you live so can't really recommend.

>> No.1185003

if you ONLY want to do car body and exhaust tubes, a tiny mig is fine! in a hobbyist setting it doesn't even need to be a good one, really.

but here's the deal: a ~200amp mig does the thin stuff, but can also handle the bigger auto jobs like frame rail patches, sticking nuts to busted locking lugs, and general fabricating up to about .250 wall. it would have better consumables/spares availability, more reliable wire feed, a better torch, finer speed control, more voltage steps, and a place to chain up your gas bottle safely.

buy once, cry once.

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1184546 No.1184546 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Been doing sculpting and engravings for larger casts, but I've begun thinking about doing it for jewelry. Does anyone have a recommendation for a laser engraver or desktop cnc machine? The pieces I indent on making will be no larger than say, 2x2 inches. I could practice carving, but somehow I don't think I'll get good enough to do pic related.

>> No.1184772

12 hour bump.

>> No.1184883

check out etching, it doesn't require equipment. Otherwise you're looking at metal cutting devices which get grit everywhere and needs workspace

>> No.1185137
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look up electric etching. all you need is masking (for the part) a couple nine volts alligator clips saltwater and a sponge. obviously better equipment equals better results. here's a link to the first video i found.
if electro isn't your thing I've heard ferric chloride is similar, but less user involvement. its often used to etch one-off circuit boards. also early link.
if your working with no-corrosive metals either tiny chisels, or pony up the $300-$∞ for a cnc machine like this one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hobby-Desktop-3-Axis-Mill-Small-CNC-Machine-DIY-PCB-Milling-Engraving-Router-Kit-/111891372282. cheers mate.

>> No.1185141

or a dremel / non-dremel dremal (small rotary tool with interchangeable bits, hand held), but it takes almost as much skill a cutters and it makes a mess.
https://www.amazon.com/Genesis-GRT2103-40-Rotary-Tool-Accessories/dp/B00885ZI06/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 this one is shit but you get the idea

>> No.1185260

Op here, thanks for the replies. I feel stupid, because I see I didn't explain fully.

I'm wanting to do the engraving on the wax blanks I'm using to do the casting. Any recommendations for that?

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1184523 No.1184523 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

How do I pull a structural chassis dent out of my car?
I do realize my car is legally totalled
And I do realize this could potentially make my car unsafe/hazardous/dangerous
I am a highschool student working at McDonald's who cannot afford to buy another car. This one still runs, but would like to remove the dent.

35 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1184910

Lol no, it's fucked, don't even try to fix it.

>> No.1185061

How does spending half a day with a hammer on a day off take away any effort from saving up from a new car? Simply put, why not both?
I realize it will never be like new, but at least I can make the door seal more correctly...
My mechanic friend actually recommended I make the other Mazda I have run with parts from this one. However, the other one is literally just the chassis now, which would mean I'd have to transfer everything... Which I'd rather not. That's where I draw the line of how much effort I am going to put into making it a fully legal functioning vehicle...
Again, the car is fine, it's just legally totalled. I don't see why taking a hammer to it for a few hours will do any more harm than is already done...

>> No.1185120

If the car is legally totalled you cannot have it back on the road beyond processional tier restoration. Period. End of story. You fucking troll.

>> No.1185131

Just go buy something for $500. It would be less effort than this and safer. You got a job, so you could apply for a bank loan.. and start establishing credit worthiness. If a $500 loan default sinks you.. ( you cant pay it off) well then you need to start studying a trade.

>> No.1185146

>Simply put, why not both?
Get a hammer and go to town, post results

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1184483 No.1184483 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Will this stuff make decent concrete reinforcement additive if shredded? It's orders of magnitude cheaper than the white uniform length fibers you usually see in GFRC...

>> No.1184637

it tastes pretty great... I don't know much more than that

>> No.1184656

It's quite puffy and thin like wool, so it probably will only introduce air poquets.
If you reduce it to the fibers, they are so thin it probably won't add much reinforcement.
The ideal thing is having sommewhat thick strands in random directions without puffing up.

>> No.1184670

>Will it make decent reinforcement

It will reduce the strength of your concrete by an order of magnitude if you fuck it up just a little bit.

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1184475 No.1184475 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Has anyone ever tried to make one? Its basically a motor with a prop attached to a aluminum dock pole, priced at $2,000. I was thinking about using a battery powered trolling motor, or possibly some type of pump. I have tons of weeds floating up to my shoreline.

pic related

>> No.1185190

Right on. F*#k those weeds!

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1184408 No.1184408 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I bought a custom built home from the original owner. I want to make some structural modifications to the house. I am a licensed structural engineer, so this will not be an issue.

I would like determine the size and spacing of my roof joists (without cutting holes in the sheetrock). The owner was not able to provide me with any building plans for the house (he died). Is there typically a permitting department at the city or county level that would have a set of plans?

The home was built only a few years ago, so I am hoping that there is some record of the building permits or at least who the architect was. The problem is that there is no "building department" nor a "permitting department" in my county. Is there some other name that this department goes by?

I am located in burgerland

15 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1184469

Custom built doesn't always mean that Jesus and his amigos followed the gringos blue paper exactly. You can hide a lot of stupid behind drywall...

You misunderstood the intent of his message

>> No.1184476
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>> No.1184514

you want to "make some structural modifications to the house", but dont want to cut a hole in the drywall to poke your head up in and have a look around?
might as well just quit now.
fucking engineers, i swear

>> No.1184619

You're supposedly a licensed structural engineer by the county or city and you have no idea where to get plans if they exist?


As a structural engineer you'll obviously know the code adopted by the governing body and that will tell you. I mean I feel stupid saying this on account of how obvious it would be for a licensed structural engineer who needs to know the adopted code for the region in which he operates.

But, then again, you probably ARE an engineer since you're too fucking stupid to climb into the attic with a tape measure

>> No.1184676

>You're supposedly a licensed structural engineer by the county or city and you have no idea where to get plans if they exist?

I don't deal with residential construction

>As a structural engineer you'll obviously know the code adopted by the governing body and that will tell you. I mean I feel stupid saying this on account of how obvious it would be for a licensed structural engineer who needs to know the adopted code for the region in which he operates.

I design bridges. Not buildings

>But, then again, you probably ARE an engineer since you're too fucking stupid to climb into the attic with a tape measure

>fucking engineers, i swear

There is nothing wrong with wanting to see it on paper before I start doing work. The existing conditions may alter my plans (i.e. I might alter my additions to conform with what is already in place).

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1184356 No.1184356 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I want to make a small wooden table for my room. Help?

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>> No.1184403


Alternately, cinder blocks and a sheet of melamine.

>> No.1184405


Get screws. Get wood. Get wood glue. Glue and screw. You've got yourself a table.

>> No.1184492

Go on gumtree/Craigslist/Local paper search for free or cheap table frame.
Buy/acquire a plywood sheet. Cut to shape.

>> No.1185217

Making myself a tv console shelf. Is screws good enough for all the joints? I can try dowel but then I have to carry the whole thing myself than screwing them piece by piece in my bedroom.

>> No.1185219

Oh yeah nothing heavy, tv will be wall mounted.

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1184348 No.1184348 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I have two large floor speakers somewhat like pic related. The cone/diaphragm has been eaten away by age and they've long since been blown out by abusing max volume by whoever owned them before. Still, the wood is nice and I'd like to repair them if I could. Has anyone done this before? I'm going to try ordering a new speaker assembly and wiring it in myself, but I'll have to seal it properly somehow since the model doesn't have replacement parts anymore.

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>> No.1184361

Alright I'll write that down. I'm basically replacing everything inside the wood case, so I might as well refoam it too. What else should I keep in mind?

>> No.1184509

Naw man. What I was saying is that you should keep the "drivers" or "speaker cones" that you have because replacing them with something else will change the frequency response of the speakers. You can repair the cones by using a foam repair kit (eg.http://www.ebay.ca/itm/FOAM-SURROUND-REPAIR-KIT-FOR-JL-AUDIO-12W3-12W3v2-12-SPEAKERS-SUB-SUBWOOFER-/380398805273?hash=item5891892119:m:m2Vz01g6WjhoWLAXbD7Nhuw) You may have to find a kit for your specific speakers, although a generic kit may also work.

As for the other components in the speakers there will be something called a "crossover" which is a passive circuit that acts as a filter. It filters the audio so that the tweeters get the right amount of high stuff, the mids get the right amount of mid stuff, and the big bass drivers get the low stuff. If it has electrolytic capacitors, replace those.

It is possible that your tweeters could be dead. You will be able to tell if they work by listening to them.

Other than that, the cabinet will be full of insulation and you can just leave that alone. You may wish to replace the terminals of the speaker with a more modern form of hookup (eg rca) if they are using old type of terminals.

>> No.1184543

Post the make and model. It should be on a sticker somewhere. Maybe on the back of the unit or maybe under the speaker grills. If you can, post a picture of the 'eaten away' damage. That will tell us if it's just a rotten speaker surround (easy fix) or a damaged cone (shitcan it).

>> No.1184547

This is what I did to fix my Minimus 77s. It was a pretty straight forward procedure, and I just ordered the cheapest foam surrounds that I found that could fit. I used Alleen's tacky glue to attach them. I did this last year, and they are holding up really well so far. I also played a sine wave through the driver to make sure that the voice coil is centered.

>> No.1184578

If they are decent enough, you can often find parts. Audiokarma have an area to request parts.

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1184302 No.1184302 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Saw this crazy table on, full album here

>> No.1184304

this isn't twitter

>> No.1184308

It makes a nice substitute for a fire pit? Cats would enjoy sitting on it? Could be used for raising bread? build four more and they could replace a space heater.

>> No.1184315

No, this is patrick.

>> No.1184319



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