It'll work, though it'll definitely be on the weak side. My electric bike is 1200W at peak and has a bit of pep to show for it (would have a lot more if it wasn't a hub motor), but it also weighs under 300lbs with me on it.
NOW we're talkin'.
>torque and top speed rather than range
Torque you get in spades, just because it's electric. What kind of motor is this, actually? I don't think it's parallel-wound, since there's no rating for the field coils, and I doubt it's AC, since there's no phasing information on it. Gotta be either series-wound or permanent magnet. If it's series, you may have to limit it quite a bit at low speed. It may actually start breaking things otherwise. And don't try and spin it up without a load; due to technical reasons, series-wound motors don't have a hard limit for top no-load speed and it would be easy to ruin it that way.
Anyway, I wouldn't recommend lead acid batteries. Not unless you can get them for free or close to it. There are just too many drawbacks (including higher long-term costs) to justify the initial savings over lithium.
Top speed will be determined entirely on your aerodynamic profile and actual power output. So, obviously, making the thing as aerodynamic as possible and using the beefiest motor/batteries you can will improve performance there. That being said, "gotta go fast" is where things start getting technical (can the wheels, frame, brakes, etc. handle it?) and dangerous (the "squared" term in e=mv^2 is a bitch). Try not to die. Or, at least, try not to take anyone else with you.
As an aside, not sure what's up with those nameplate ratings. The actual wattage you get from multiplying volts and amps doesn't even come close to the power rating. I'd expect it to either match or the rated power to be a little less than what V*A would indicate.