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File: 30 KB, 640x480, 1720379854538886.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2888305 No.2888305 [Reply] [Original]

I got several aluminium extrusions i would like to paint in white, RAL 9010 and with a grit finish like pic rel.
Question is, how do i do that? Preferably without shooting a hole in my wallet.
>Is this doable with off the shelf can products?
>What am i most likely even looking for? There seem to be quite some options; lacquer, powder coating, nano coating, etc..
>Is there any kind of standardisation regarding amount of grittiness?
>If all fails, can this be done in a car shop or do I need to find someone more specialised?
Whole thing should be somewhat heat resisent as well as i it's standing under an oval glass ceiling.

Yes, i tried to look this up. However these days Google is apparently only ever smart enough to show you cans without any indication what the end result may look like, posing carfags, and shops selling to aforementioned car fags. Neither of the last two giving any indication how anything is actually done. And don't get me started on getting anything out of Chatgpt regarding what these kinds of coatings are actually good for.

Color is probably the easy part, but else i'm trying this whole thing with good ol no experience.

3 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2888446

>>2888305
Shot peen paint.

>> No.2888487

>>2888388
If you want it to last you're gonna need to prep and etch prime the metal.

>> No.2888489

>>2888305
Go to a hardware store and just look at the paint section, you should find the right kind of thing. I've used it before and gotten pretty good results, it's pretty obvious from the cap of the spray can but I can't remember what it's called.

>> No.2888499

>>2888369
>sieg not being stupid challenge: IMPOSSIBLE

You can't put a phosphate coating on aluminum. It only works on ferrous metals. Moreover, that's not at all what a phosphate finish looks like. Like it's not even close; parkerized iron is a distinct dark grey/black. OP's pic just a stone effect/textured coating.

Off-the-shelf options are available. Or you can do similar pretty easily with most spray guns: Adjust the gun so it sprays spatter instead of mist and do several coats of similar-ish colors, letting them dry completely between coats.

>> No.2888605

>>2888305
Commercial-store bought method;
Sandblast+chemical patina

Diy method
This >>2888334



File: 556 KB, 1248x1000, 44499635.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2888243 No.2888243 [Reply] [Original]

I'm looking at buying a 3/4 acre property where I think a riding mower is gonna be a necessity. It's also in an area that gets some significant, though sporadic, snow dumps, and it's got an 80'x25'ish driveway, plus it's on a cul de sac that probably isn't plowed by the city. Most people seem to have walk-behind snow blowers and in fact there was one in the garage when I viewed the house yesterday, but I'm thinking that maybe it makes sense to get something that can go on the mower instead. I'd probably be getting a pretty small mower, something like a Cub Cadet X1 or Deere 100 series, and I see that blowers and blades exist for them but I'm not sure how well they do with them. For what it's worth the area I'd be plowing/blowing is relatively flat, paved, and the snow I'd have to clear would be more toward the powder end of things.

Any advice? Should I just get a walk-behind, or if a mower thing how about blade vs blower?

12 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2888712

>>2888426
>Why did the middle class get killed off
Long story, kid

>> No.2888745

I have 2 acres and mow with the cheapest wal mart gas mower

>> No.2888752

>>2888711
It's more about my elderly parents, they'll both be past 80 when I finish school (helicopter pilot training) and move somewhere else and pushing a mower around isn't gonna be in the cards for them.

Also I'll fully admit that it just seemed like fun to have a thing I can drive around, especially if I can also plow/blow snow with it.

>> No.2888911

>>2888752
In this case, yeah, a push-mower is out. Actually, so is a snow-blower. Seems to be a pretty flat, simple driveway, but blowers in a big snow are a bastard to use. It might be time to step up to a larger, 20+ HP garden tractor, with a 2-stage blower attachment and wheelweights. Wheelhorse used to have a very slick EZ-Attach system, for additional stuff, but that was years ago - no recommendations for current good products.

>> No.2888915

>>2888752
Hire someone



File: 417 KB, 700x700, 163646622.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2888225 No.2888225 [Reply] [Original]

5 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2888289

>>2888258
I’ve used mine as a reference point for hanging shelves and a bunch of frames and stuff on finished walls where I don’t want to deal with a chalk line. Measure off the cross and keep everything square and level. It’s also super easy to adjust if you want to rethink your layout. Considering I paid <$60 for my Bosch laser that will run across any normal room and a tripod that’s like 70” tall max, I got no complaints. I think I’ve used the laser level more than the laser tape measure

>> No.2888291

>>2888225
Only useful with a tripod. The magnet shit is meaningless. They're phenomenal for putting up cabinets, picture frames, tvs, etc.... haven't used my i-beam level as anything but a ruler since I got my laser level.

>>2888258
Surely you're using an automatic leveling laser lol.

>> No.2888296

>>2888225
I only use them outside when grading. Indoors I use my measuring tape, long straight edges, large squares and chalk lines. I don't trust the laser 100% for large tiles/slabs

>> No.2888478

>>2888291
I have one with a very strong magnet base, it's awesome. It will obviously stick to anything metal, but it also works on metal corner beads and it's strong enough to hold to metal studs through 1/2" drywall. The base that comes with mine has keyhole slots to hang with a nail or a screw and long slots that allow a strap or a hose clamp (never used it but I'm sure it could be useful).

Just be careful when using a laser on a wall that is not plumb: the line is plumb only when projected straight on, so if you are at a significant angle relative to the wall and the wall is not plumb, neither will the line be. E.g. if the wall is sloping away from you, the line will tilt away as you move from the center. The significance of the effect depends on how out of plumb the wall is and how much of an angle you have, so for small values of both it could still be insignificant. If you have to place the level out of the way, double check from a different location to ensure you get good readings.

>> No.2888503

>>2888225
>Are laser levels gay or based?
explain how they would be gay.



File: 1.16 MB, 1000x1000, 1713751188923990.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2888192 No.2888192 [Reply] [Original]

I don't see any carpentry/woodwork general so making a thread. I want to do a multipurpose cabinet on wheels out of pine. it doesn't have to look professional but it needs to do the job. it's a stand for a PC case and other things. I want to mount it on 4 good wheels, it should be about 1.5m-2m tall (60-80 inches) and handle weight of around 40-50kg max (90-110 pounds).

half of the weight will be directly on the base, rest will stay on 4 columns going around the PC. a bit above the PC will start the second half of the cabinet(or whatever to call it) that should handle the other half of the weight.

the side doors of the PC case should remain accessible, that's why there's columns not obstructing the view. I need some tutorials or help on what techniques to use to make it sturdy and solid. by grabbing the middle, probably with a handle, it should all move on those wheels without being ripped apart. I want the thing to feel strong. are those metal connectors and glue going to be enough? I worry that 4 columns are just not going to handle grabbing 20kg by a handle and moving the cart. I might opt into some metal parts but I don't have the tools and space for proper metal work. thanks for any tips

>> No.2888193
File: 96 KB, 777x918, 1716400746982234.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2888193

here is a visual sketch of what I want to do. the lines are thin but the wood will be thicker of course. half the weight on the lower half, half the weight on the upper half. grabbing the cart using the red handle to move the whole thing. the bottom can be a metal grate so the air can move better. or just some extra wood for support

>> No.2888199

>>2888192
Glue won’t help much on end grain and these corner brackets are pretty good but probably less stiff than you want them to be. What I would do is grab wood half as thick and glue 2 pieces together, leaving some space in order to make faux lap joints, and glue and screw those unless you’re willing to go through the trouble of cutting actual lap joints

If you’re going with just metal, at least put a T plate on the face sides, that helps a lot

>> No.2888340
File: 26 KB, 494x284, Bracing-1[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2888340

>>2888192
>half of the weight will be directly on the base,
All of the weight is always on the base :). The casters and where they connect should be fine though. Cubes do not like to be dynamic loads and the only way to make them cope is to turn them into pyramids or make one side solid. What's more important is doing some sort of diagonal bracing on the the sides and especially the bottom, though I take it you'll already make the bottom out of plywood so that should solve it. You should not need metal and I would stick with 2X3's or smaller cause the weight will add up and work against what you're trying to do.

>> No.2888690

i have a couple of stools made with 2x2s (more like one and halfs) and they hold my 70kg weight just fine without diagonal braces



File: 348 KB, 719x1280, Selfie_snap_pic00124515.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2888170 No.2888170[DELETED]  [Reply] [Original]

F23 let's trade nudes video sexting, i can make you cumm Telegram> @janee977

>> No.2888172

>>2888170
This is DIY, I can make myself cumm

>> No.2888173

>>2888170
Sext yourself faggot

>> No.2888174
File: 35 KB, 300x225, kraftmaid-015-300x225.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2888174

>>2888170
Break time is over jannies



File: 36 KB, 166x166, imagem_2025-01-12_004439055.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2888107 No.2888107 [Reply] [Original]

I live in the basement, and the landlord insisted on checking the pipes going into and out of the valve. When he went in to look, he closed the door, as if he was hiding something. He wants to make some repairs but doesn't want me to be home while he does them.

>There seems to be a draft of cold air coming from the area where this valve is located.
>There is also cold air coming out of a nearby electrical outlet that doesn’t have a cover plate. he seems eager to put a plate on it, but he never mentioned it was because of the cold air.
>There is a transparent pipe leading to the valve and an orange pipe coming from the street and another orange one running through the basement.
>the transparent pipe seems to be wrapped with insulation foam
>the landlord said years ago the pipe bursted twice

I think he is hiding something, but I know jackshit about american construction so I'm not sure what I should be looking for.

3 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2888119

>>2888116
>do you know what a register is?
yes but im not telling you because you never mentioned anything about one or anything hvac related in the op
youre brown and from someplace where it never gets below 100 freedom degrees. welcome to the usa. it gets cold in the winter here and houses often lack perfect insulation. youre also probably renting and illegal sublet slum for less than the alternative so you can either shut up or pack up and find another place

>> No.2888121

>>2888107
The house is probably a high radon area. He fixed the radon fan and now it's sucking air out of the basement

>> No.2888231

landlord's chinese guys fixed a leaking pipe in my home a few days ago. since then when we turn on the sink after a while of non-use, we'll hear a gurggling sound. i suspect this could be the pipe leaking elsewhere and air entering the system. is this something that happens?

>> No.2888451

>>2888107
It's the landlord fart pipe. Maybe he'd forgotten to connect your unit or something. When he's done he'll go into the secret room, fart into the fart pipe, and vent the farts into the apartment. All landlords have fart pipes.

>> No.2888523

>>2888107

He wants to put a cover on the outlet cuz thats the rules. Outlets need covers.

Not sure why he doesnt want you home. Maybe its gonna be loud, maybe its cuz the guys working on it will be assholes.
Honestly seems pretty legit. Many landlords dont fix anything ever



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2888044 No.2888044[DELETED]  [Reply] [Original]

How do you create a box trap like the one in the picture? It should be anchored to the floor with a very short chain, automatically lock around the wrist, and be difficult to remove or loosen. Ideally, it would also be inside a small automatically collapsing wooden box.

>> No.2888050
File: 107 KB, 576x768, 1733937538430437 1723487331962572.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2888050

>>2888044
Mods, get this fucking garbage off the board.

>> No.2888062

>>2888044
zip tie
also hot. only thing I don't like is that she has to pee. idk why japs like that so much. creepy. otherwise, making girls embarrassed VERY cute

>> No.2888063

>>2888062
How would the zip tie secure itself around her wrist? Is it possible to use a metal zip tie or some sort of metal cuff instead? A plastic zip tie seems like it might be a bit too weak.

I mostly agree with you about the pee part. The only good thing about it is that it would motivate her to immediately take off her swimsuit so she could run over to the box, grab the key, run back, unlock her swimsuit, and put it back on before heading to the bathroom. If she didn't have to pee, she might just stand there and wait for someone to come by and try to cut the bicycle lock or even chew that part of the one-piece off or something. But maybe I'm overthinking it.



File: 715 KB, 2206x1080, California dream.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2887922 No.2887922 [Reply] [Original]

I think it's time we finally stop building what are essentially glorified shacks and update our building codes.

90 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2888933

>>2888826
>The dense vegetation is only next to the most expensive homes.
Who said anything about density? Coastal chaparral/ scrub isn't particularly dense.

>Most homes have only have homes on all sides with a small garden.

Wrong, and ignores all the massive wildfires that go through totally undeveloped areas just as fast or faster.
>The wildfire produces embers
Wow, you got one thing right, finally
>but it's not like a mile away the air is hot enough to spontaneously ignite a building.
Nobody said it would but again you prove that you have no clue WTF you are talking about- the speed of a fires spread is highly dependent on topography that you completely ignore.
Even on flat ground a wildfire's spread rate can be 15 mph, which means it can go a mile in four minutes.
Add in high winds blowing up a canyon and that speed can double or even triple.
But I've personally witnessed smoke and volatile plant vapors spontaneously flash over an area 1/8 of a mile long in the blink of an eye during the 2003 Cedar fire- and on relatively flat ground...not because the entire area was at combustion temperature but because it was covered with highly flammable HYDROCARBON vapors from the terpines and other volatiles in native plants, none of which came from or had anything to do with houses. IOW the smoky, oily vapor filled fucking AIR above the ground ignited and stayed burning long enough for the plants beneath those burning vapors to ignite without any embers or buildings involved.

You have no fucking clue what you are talking about.

>> No.2888987
File: 98 KB, 474x266, photostudio_1736921445639.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2888987

CA in a nutshell-

>Gov agency (LADWP) tries to replace old wooden power poles with steel, widen fire-access roads, and install wind- and fire-resistant power lines in declared "elevated fire risk" area to help prevent fires
>environmentalists karens force work to stop over an endangered shrub with the help of another gov agency (CA Coastal Commision)
>$2 million in fines (paid by taxpayers) levied by one gov agency against another and reversal of all work and replanting ordered
>less than five years later entire area goes up in flames likely taking out all of the endangered plants along with thousands of homes, historical buildings, other native plants and killing people and animals
> environmentalist karens are happy because the rare scrub plant is one whose seeds germinate after wildfires
> now homeless citizens paid/pay/will pay more for every single bit of it
> CA politicians and media lackeys blame global warming, not enough taxes on "the rich" who pay the majority of taxes, corporations/capitalism, Republicans who hold no power in CA govermment, and bad orange man.

https://nypost.com/2025/01/14/us-news/california-bureaucrats-halted-pacific-palisades-fire-safety-project-to-save-endangered-shrub/

>> No.2888996

Considering how only one house survived, I’m thinking this was one of those things that was inevitable.

Although, politicians and every private citizen were hoping it “wouldn’t happen on my watch” since it’s a rare event and used the cheapest construction materials available, and stole all the money that was supposed to be used for public safety.
They were hoping to retire or die before anything happened. Just like the guys running Fukushima diichi nuclear plant.

Meanwhile, in china, you got families living in the same homes sometimes for 15 or 20 generations now.

>> No.2888998
File: 762 KB, 500x250, beavis-and-butt-head-mr-van-driessen-5dcef6rn2rzra64c.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2888998

>>2888987

...The city utility had been alerted to the presence of the endangered plants on July 7 via an email sent by David Pluenneke, an amateur botanist and avid hiker. It thanked him for calling the issue to their attention, according to documents obtained by The Times.

Eight days later, Pluenneke visited the site and discovered that crews had removed all vegetation across several acres for a new dirt fire road, 24 feet wide. He was livid, and remains angry.

>“It’s hard not to think that if there had been blue whales and panda bears up there, they would have bulldozed them, too,” Pluenneke said.

>> No.2889002

>>2888998
These fucking nimrods.think.the.poles just manifested into position. They don't consider that maybe sometime in the last 100 years the.company came.through previously and cut exactly the same road. No way. And now there's no way the plants could possibly recover



File: 1.22 MB, 4000x3000, 20250111_101245.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2887867 No.2887867 [Reply] [Original]

And without dying?

2 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2887919

shove it in your dickhole

>> No.2887924

>>2887872
WRONG

https://youtu.be/glsg2HpWyok?feature=shared&t=144

>> No.2887934

>>2887872
>use a volt meter on the wires.
Pretty much this. Just make sure it's set to AC, and that you use one where you can't accidentally slip onto the tips. Something like a Duspol would be best.

>> No.2887962 [DELETED] 

>>2887934
>Just make sure it's set to AC, and that you use one where you can't accidentally slip onto the tips.

>>2887924
moron
stop hand holding the tards.

>> No.2887963

>>2887934
>Just make sure it's set to AC, and that you use one where you can't accidentally slip onto the tips.
stop hand holding the tards.

>>2887924
moron



File: 49 KB, 1000x1000, 51Lpf5uOVhL._AC_SL1000_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2887853 No.2887853 [Reply] [Original]

Apparently Japanese people have these in every house. How hard would it be to attacha small electric waterpump (like 50 kW?) to the water supply line and then just run a pipe under the toilet seat? Self ass cleaning toilet would be neat.

3 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2887993

>>2887853
>small electric waterpump
> like 50 kW?
67 horse power of ass destruction.
I...I might pay $5 to watch the first person who tries to wash their ass in such a thing.

>> No.2887996

>>2887853
You can get a bolt-on for fifteen bucks and your ass hole isn’t even very sensitive to cold temperatures.

>> No.2888118

>>2887853
kek this is some subtle homo trying to wreck his boipucci with a firehose

>> No.2888128

>>2887853
>just run a pipe under the toilet seat
It's not just a pipe, though. The retract when not in use, so your shit doesn't end up clogging the nozzle. Most will also move back and forth while in use, and have two positions (one for the ass, one for women).

>> No.2888129

>>2887853
> water pump
Newsflash, the water supply lines are already pressurized.
Mine is like 80 PSI.



File: 80 KB, 897x984, proxy-image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2887685 No.2887685 [Reply] [Original]

Do you think it's worth it to buy expensive headphones to harvest it's internal parts and stick them into industrial earmuffs with a 31nrr? I got an ear infection from my foam earplugs and the doctor told me to wear them sparingly. Now I don't want to rely on stuff that goes into my ear canal.

6 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2888335
File: 449 KB, 291x766, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2888335

>>2887692
>rinsing the inside of your ears
pic rel + hydrogen peroxide/water in 50/50 mix, or just pour the hydrogen peroxide + water into your ear and lay on your side for several minutes

>> No.2888482

>>2887685
Is the pressure of foam plug caused ear infection or you kept putting on dirty ones on your never cleaned ear holes.

>> No.2888490
File: 30 KB, 500x500, EP3-BK-pair__36335.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2888490

>>2887685
You can get headphones designed for drummers that combine decent audio quality with really good isolation.

I will also say though that good reusable earplugs could be worth looking at. I use pic related Peltors for shooting and they work well while being much more hygenic than foamies since you don't have to touch the part that goes into your ear.

>> No.2888748

>>2888155
>>2888264
reading comprehension

>> No.2888810
File: 569 KB, 1046x1014, Bildschirmfoto 2025-01-14 um 21.11.11.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2888810

>>2887685
not worth it at all.
get picrel instead. apparently they started making a bluetooth model too, but can only vouch for the cable version. also replace your foam plugs from time to time negro.



File: 811 KB, 2221x2252, 17698657375.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2887532 No.2887532 [Reply] [Original]

post your brews. ask about brews. hops are for trannies.

previous thread: >>2867914

22 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2888944
File: 125 KB, 558x378, Distillation-2034609858.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2888944

>>2888916
put some ice on the lid so it drips into the cup faster

>> No.2888997

Drinking my beer after 4 whole weeks not bad if I do say so myself. Tastes a bit yeasty, I'm going to ferment it on the table so it doesn't kick up the trub/yeast next time. I didn't think of that. Carbonations pretty good but maybe next time I'll add more sugar. Don't think I want a keg, I'm too cheap and dealing with leaks and shit worries me

>> No.2889025

>>2888804
Any yeast will do, but it won’t taste exactly as ginger beer. The bacteria really help reducing the sharpness of the ginger and make it less sour (as most of them are LAB) so it may end up a bit more spicy.

>> No.2889050

>>2888728
Some of the apples and pears I have especially the apples seem to retain their structure faily well but even if they turn to mush a jam jar won't last long.

>> No.2889056

its the middle of summer, and I'm branching out from my regular US-05 to try a kveik for the first time. it'll be hitting 40c for 3-4 days and no airconditioning, the brew temp will probably vary between mid 20's and low 30's before any heat generated by the yeast is accounted for.

it's going to be a basic ale to match my last brew so I can get a good comparison for how the yeast affects flavour. any gotchas I should be aware of?



File: 2.59 MB, 4000x3000, 20250109_181709.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2887439 No.2887439 [Reply] [Original]

>Installing bathroom ceiling fan in old house
>Has plaster on top of drywall for god know's what reason
>Ceiling fan does not have enough clearance to mount onto the plaster, I have to remove a 1 inch border of plaster all the way around the pic related square
>I have to do so without destroying the drywall underneath
>I tried drilling holes and breaking, but it broke the drywall underneath as well.

Wut do?

5 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2887509

>>2887493
>https://inspectapedia.com/interiors/Rock-Lath.php

You're a gentleman and a scholar, anon. Thx

>> No.2887546

>>2887482
>>2887483
Utility knife might just work too.

>> No.2887569

>>288743cut plaster and drywall, make a square wooden spacer the size you need and install that for the fan to mount to. Fuck that plaster AND fuck that drywall.

>> No.2887596

>>2887439
at a glance i see 3 different options , first bend the tabs so it hangs lower , seond skip there mounts and use the joist which is right there in plain sight , and third remove the 1/2 inch drywall leaving the plaster in place , you dont know what your doing so its pointless to explain how to do what needs to be done so go hire someone that knows what they are doing so it gets done right , there , i gave you 4 options ,

>> No.2887637

>>2887493
Thanks man very interesting, I deleted my post cause I zoomed in and saw what looked like lath pieces so thought I had done a tard moment.



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2887263 No.2887263 [Reply] [Original]

Decorative concrete expert here. Will be posting some of my work from last season.
Wishing all the tradies a good year this year, except electricians, yall are nerds.
This is a wood stamp I did, came out absolutely stunning.

85 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2888721

>>2888692
>>2888691
eh looks ok except the stairs and poorly done colour
also lacks the glossy finish on top but that's just how concrete looks

>> No.2888725

>>2888707
Yes. It limits the amount of decorative finishes we can offer. For example rock salt finishes are great for around pools because they soak up the slippery water and make a good surface for walking barefoot even when wet. However, due to freezing temperatures here in the winter the surface of rock salt finishes just crumbles into dust.

>> No.2888726

>>2888721
>that’s just how concrete looks
This slab looks like dog water
I’d be embarrassed to produce that, and would be ripping it out and redoing it free of charge.
Yuck.

>> No.2888727

>>2887263
it looks like wood

>> No.2888739

>>2888721
I’ll break it down professionally for you here:
>They didn’t mask anything so the colored concrete is haphazardly slopped around on every surface surrounding the slab
>inconsistent indentation in the actual stamp, indicating they either started stamping too late or didn’t use a tamper, or just didn’t know how
>accent color is washed out indicating it may have rained heavily overnight, making the darker accent color look like spilled watercolor paint
>step has too much slope indicating a forming issue
There’s problems on every aspect of this slab. Again I would be embarrassed.



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2887258 No.2887258 [Reply] [Original]

I bought a post-exposition nailgun in a bid, but it came in with an air leak. it looks new, but when I plugged it in to the compressor, there's a hiss near the trigger. it still shoots. Can it be fixed or should I just send it back? I'd rather not return it, because I got it for less than 20$ with a case and a few k of nails and staples

10 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2887332

>>2887322
I didn't say that it's slow or weak, or that isn't sufficient for most applications, it just can't reach the pneumatic nailgun levels, which you claimed is untrue. a pneumatic gun will shoot basically as fast as you can move your finger and, without turning up the reduction, it will basically go all the way through the board. you usually don't need so much power by itself, but it translates to unparalleled consistency and adjustability, just an imprecise tap is enough, you don't need to keep it steady, there's no blowback whatsoever, which is a big issue with electric nailers. the real real drawback is the weight, it weights almost as much as a small compressor and a pneumatic nailer combined. an air line isn't a problem if you have a small battery powered compressor next to the nailer, which is more than enough and has many other uses than driving nails too

>> No.2887354

>>2887258
Plug into compressor then look for the leak by holding tool under water. Once fixed, run it to blow it clear then run some oil through it to protect the valve and air motor.

You can post pics of leak and find an online parts diagram or email the maker so ya know what's inside.

BTW many workers use a CO2 rig to power their portable pneumatic tools away from shore power. I use CO2 often and not just for MIG welding shielding gas.

>> No.2887361
File: 649 KB, 1175x944, image_2025-01-09_232721783.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2887361

>>2887354
>You can post pics of leak and find an online parts diagram or email the maker so ya know what's inside.
I already found one:
https://www.einhell-service.com/en_DE/4137790-tc-pn-50.html
given that the hiss is behind the trigger, it cound be one of the 3 washers/o'rings. they're all out of stock sadly, but I'll be able to find some matching replacements

>> No.2887362

>>2887361
>but I'll be able to find
*but maybe I'll be able to find

>> No.2887365

>>2887361
Sweet! O-rings are easy to source. If you have (most places do) a local industrial supply or hydraulic shop bring in the tool with rings and seals removed so they can hook you up.

Another way is buying an assortment of Viton or Buna rings online for pocket change then using what works. Tool makers normally use standard sizes. You should have little difficulty sourcing parts and will learn useful things in the process.



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2887157 No.2887157 [Reply] [Original]

I don't think I've posted since the purge a few months back. Here to answer any stone related questions.
>Been working with stone for a few decades, running my own company for most of that time
>My company mainly does repair work, but I have been a stone slab installer, fabricator etc. I also consult and do some layout/design work
>Here to answer questions about stone selection, repair, applications, maintenance etc.
>Happy to answer any questions for our budding entrepreneurs, contractors etc. regarding running a small business working with luxury products/clientele.

I won't bump this thread, I'm terribly busy at work but will do my best to check in daily

59 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2888901

>>2888900
I didnt really answer your question though. Importing is damn expensive, like insane and in my area at least, quite a cartel. Even finding a material you like in one place and having the slab moved to your shop is going to be $400-500 just to move the slab around. Your best bet will be finding a shop with a huge supply of slabs on hand and then picking from their supply and forget about importing anything or moving it around. If you are thinking of starting a very big business then thats a different story, but imports are usually done by the container full, not by the slab (in my very limited experience)

>> No.2888903
File: 77 KB, 750x600, ezgif-7-8aef3fdd14.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2888903

>>2888899
So you basically leave an intentional gap with the two stationary pieces of stone in place for the epoxy to fill in rather than pushing them together and squeezing the excess out? What brands would you recommend for color matched epoxy?

>>2888901
Yea I already talked to a big supplier locally. I sure aint gonna fuck around with full sized slabs if all I need is small squares.
They can cut it for me for a reasonable price, since its similar to cutting windowsill, but it gets unproportionally more expensive if they do the mitre cuts on all 4 sides per square so I feel like I need a setup to do that myself.

What is the optimal semi-diy approach to doing the mitres? Is it a wet saw, like a tile saw type of deal? Keep in mind Id be working with reasonably small pieces that can be handled easily (half the size of picrel, maybe even bit smaller).

>> No.2888912
File: 301 KB, 1800x1800, pl1014_1[1].png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2888912

>>2888903
>squeeze vs gap
You can squeeze them together, good epoxy mixed to the right ratio is very good at bonding to cut stone. Harder/denser material like quartzite, porcelain etc. I find a little room for more epoxy is better.
>Brand
Gold brand (transparent) by Superior -or- Gran Quartz Chrome transparent (same product) are the best of the best, but hard to sand compared to say, TENEX. Is the best epoxy out there though.
>pigments
Liquid pigments for stone should be available from the same place you buy the epoxy. Youll need to mix your own and consider transparency not just color. Always test as epoxy yellows with curing.
>Cutting
Yes straight cuts at the shop would be cheaper and then you can cut with a wet saw yourself at home. Blades are expensive and wet saw would need to be capable of 45 degree cuts of course. There are two types, one with a tray you push into the blade and one where you pull it. Either works as long as its a good saw and a good blade and its all clamped securely. But this begs the question, why not just buy tiles? Obviously if you want to follow vein patterning like in your original post then youll need to go slab, but otherwise tiles are cheaper and lighter, just an thought

>> No.2888929

>>2888912
thanks for all the insights! guess my next step is finding a decent second hand saw.

What kind of grinder/discs should I get for polishing the edges?

>> No.2888939
File: 28 KB, 600x600, monster-polishing-pads-dhpset-44_600[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2888939

>>2888929
5 inch semi flexible, makita variable speed, carbide sandpaper @ 100-200-400-600-800. Hand pads are also handy for corners, much easier to control.



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2887133 No.2887133 [Reply] [Original]

Can I use discarded street stones as bricks to build up walls? Or is there something about them that make them improper for that usage and only good for flooring?

>> No.2887138

>>2887133
Follow up, what’s the scrap price for railroad tracks?

>> No.2887154

>>2887133
the difficulties would be that they are not ideally uniform, you want uniform bricks to minimize mortar for cost and strength.
the other thing is setts are normally squareish, which makes bonding courses difficult.
the answer really is yes you could but the difficulty depends on the type of wall. garden feature? sure who cares. 2 story house? good luck with building control.

>> No.2887175
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2887175

>>2887154
I was thinking 1 story tiny house or shed, being that this is the only reliable manner in which I can get blocks of stone in my country. No one builds with stone anymore, you can only ever get tiny crushed rocks for mixing with cement. Nice blocks of stone for building something akin to pic related is impossible unless you happen to run into an old structure being demolished



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2887088 No.2887088 [Reply] [Original]

I know this is gonna sound retarded but I can't find any info anywhere on if it would work or not.

16 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2888221

You should make some Colin Furze style contraption that just ejaculates ketchup everywhere completely randomly...

>> No.2888228

>>2887088
If it's for home use, I doubt you'll turn over enough ketchup to prevent it from becoming a festering mold farm, even if you use a lot of ketchup. If it's for a kitchen, but a designated product or get shut down by the health inspector.

>> No.2888251

>>2888216
So then you get a camera module and setup an AI image recognition system so it only deploys when it identifies french fries and celery in the dispensing target zone.

>> No.2888301

>>2887088
Will you put the soap in the ketchup bottle?

>> No.2888402
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2888402

op take the udder pill



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2887085 No.2887085 [Reply] [Original]

i want to start repairing my vintage synthesizers and other audio equipment (mostly recapping, some pot/display replacements), what's the best setup for this? Should i get a separate soldering station + a hakko fr-301 or a complete rework station (like the hakko fm-206 or something similar). Money isn't an issue, i just need good equipment to ensure that i don't ruin anything

9 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2887321

>>2887085
Get 3m of copper solder wick, solder with flux, a soldering iron that goes up to 400c with a sharp tip, a bent needlenose plier.
That's all you need to get the components in your pic off, if they have a lot of contact points you pull on them and melt the contacts one by one until you find the one absorbing the majority of your pull force.
Then you do it again until the last one lets go, and you take a break after letting the solder set again after each point if you're worried about overheating the board. And you can remove solder with the copper wick each time but that's not always necessary.
Sometimes you have to heat from the underside, and sometimes it helps to have a clamp stand (heavy stand with two clamps and sometimes a magnifier, easy to recognize. "handige handjes" / third hand).

I don't see a heatplate helping. Hako rework station looks like a meme, just get copper wick. Don't spend more than $200, it'll just demoralize you, aim for about $140 in equipment.

>> No.2887502

>>2887192
Man, when I'm trying to pull a 48pin chip in some tiny old eletronics I can
>A. get a proper shield for the chip, blast it with heat, pull the old chip and still manage to both rip a lead and fry a nearby capacitor.
or
>B. melt some solder, pull the fucker off, wick up the excess.

If you have a better way of reviving old ass digimon feel free to tell me.

>> No.2887530

if you're gonna get a plunger solder sucker, get one with (replaceable) silicon tubing at the tip

>> No.2887681 [DELETED] 
File: 964 KB, 2496x1872, hand soldered.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2887681

>>2887502
>and still manage to both rip a lead and fry a nearby capacitor
sounds like a skill issue. 48 pins? lmao.
this is a 256 pin qfp i did R&R on by hand. this is the after.
(1/2)

>> No.2887682 [DELETED] 
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2887682

>>2887681
because it came from the board house looking like this.



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2887062 No.2887062 [Reply] [Original]

Did DeWalt just win the cordless wars? Heated sweatshirt AND you can charge your fucking phone off it.

15 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2887581

>>2887487
>faggot doesn’t understand the question, doesn’t understand why it’s being asked, has no experience or expertise with the subject matter. Repeats exactly what you said with no new information as if they answered you.
Why do you feel the need to do that? I legitimately can’t understand you people.

>> No.2887679

>>2887581
>answered the question about which batteries should be safe with adapters, but you should consider the size
>explained that M18 probably isn’t going to be much better because that’s not a max watt device
Anon, you have never been the same since you walked in on your sister being gangbanged by tripfriends

>> No.2888439

>>2887679
You didn’t answer the question at all. I clearly already knew that “Milwaukee keeps their overdraw protection in the battery while other brands put it in the tool”.
>heh… as an expert let me explain… you see… if Milwaukee keeps their overdraw protection in the battery… but other brands don’t… then you wouldn’t want to put a dewalt battery on a Milwaukee tool with an adapter. Don’t you see? You see how smart I am? Please tell me I’m smart this is all I have… please.
And the part about m12 vs m18 is clearly me asking if the actual Milwaukee adapter has better output when charging a device, and the form factor, nothing to do with the jacket specifically. Unless you have experience with the m18 adapter you’re literally just guessing and then trying to pass it off as experience/knowledge. The real issue is that you’re a redditor to your bones, but don’t get enough attention there or are in denial about it or something.

>> No.2888662

>>2887218
You probably should go back (closer to the equator where youre from)

>> No.2888705

>>2887218
>>2887253
For the $200 it costs you can get clothes that reduce your heat loss more than the measly 20W that the jacket adds. Your body won’t even get most of the heat from

> I don’t need to stay warm I just need the outer layer of my skin to feel warm in order to be able to do a task outside
Then get one