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/diy/ - Do-It-Yourself

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1215889 No.1215889 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I don't know the name of the pieces I'm looking for, let alone where to find them.
I opened up an external hard drive in order to use the connector for several old drives, and I'm looking to find where to buy this circuit board, cable, and also casing, rather than switch it around every few minutes. Anyone have a clue? I'm guessing a company like Jameco or Mouser would have this.

3 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1215898

yes you buy a plastic enclosure for it and it will come with the circuit board (sata to usb) and cable (usb micro-b 3.0 to usb a 3.0 usually).
i doubt you will find an enclosure without the circuit and cables. i say plastic, some might be metal depends on the manufacturer.

if you want an enclosure to hold a few drives at once its more of a file server type thing and its more expensive.

if you aren't carrying them around you can look for docks, which is just the connector and the drive sits bare on your desk or something. these can connect with eSATA which might be faster?

>> No.1215899

More expensive than I would have thought, but I think that has something to do with the fact that I'm not buying it from an electronics supplier like Jameco.

>> No.1216013
File: 7 KB, 300x300, USB 2.0 to 7+6 13Pin Slimline SATA Laptop CD_DVD Rom Optical Drive Adapter Cable.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

if the case is not that important, you can get one of these for $5-$10.

>> No.1216024

You are looking for these https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Enclosure-Transparent-SuperSpeed-2139U3/dp/B01M4LPQZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501021420&sr=8-1&keywords=internal+hdd+case.

>>hdd enclosure
>>internal hdd enclosure

Things To Keep In Mind
>There are a number of connectors used, but in the modern age pretty much every HDD sold these days is a SATA connector. You may also have a PATA use info like this https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hard_disk_drive_interface to identify your connectors.

>> No.1216242

The terminology you are looking for is "hard drive enclosure" as has been mentioned. Or a hot swappable hard drive adapter if you want quick swaps without putting drives in enclosures. You can also get good hot swap devices relatively cheaply (£40 in UK) that have a very reliable controller and multiple ports for use with IDE and old laptop IDE drives with integrated power if you expect to be using them.

Some extra advice from what's already been mentioned. Not all enclosures are created equal and if you go for the absolute cheapest thing you find it slightly increases the chance you will lose or corrupt your data. So of you will be using these things regularly or for very important data then its worth not getting something that costs 5$. Also make sure you get USB3 enclosures.

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1215872 No.1215872 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

How cheap can you get a laser cutter for thin wood and plastic?

2 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1215881

so you just wanted to be a smartass?

>> No.1215903

You'll need a CO2 laser for that.

>> No.1215910

He still could do thin plastics with a 2w diode

>> No.1215913

5mm wood too?

>> No.1215935

It is a question of patience.

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1215848 No.1215848 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

HEy /diy does anyone of you here know a place where I can buy unicolored, flexible, ultra thin and cheap OLED foil?

1 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1215908


Yeah, good luck with that champ.

>> No.1216206

>And flexible

>> No.1216213

its naturally flexible.

>> No.1216277

>where can I get a new technology, with specfic conditions that make it even more expensive, for cheap
Build a factory in Asia

>> No.1216285

The cheapest currently available is the Motorola Droid Turbo 2.
>buy phone
>realize it's shit
>strip out the AMOLED
>reverse engineer

File: 55 KB, 500x375, HHO car test.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1215823 No.1215823 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Download from Google Drive: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B6i93UqPunh4Z2QzVVA0QmpMc3M?usp=sharing

Or Download from Media Fire: https://www.mediafire.com/folder/2nvd76h996vdr/HHO_Superpack

I paid about $25 AUD for a download of these plans from: http://hhosuperpack.com/

Another collection of blueprints (For about $60 AUD) can be bought at: https://www.freefromfuel.com/manual/

These are designs of the DryCELL generator by Peter Salocher, which is a safer electrolysis machine that has less build-up of Oxy-Hydrogen (HHO).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WkEX5cToTaw (Skip to 4:55)

Note: Modifying your car to increase mileage using the same amount of petrol, may void any insurance you have for that vehicle.

5 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1215919


There are only three possibilities for how HHO *might* do this.

1.) You inject the HHO straight in.

This is a complete waste. In order to do this, you incur energy conversion losses as follows:

Chemical potential of the gasoline into mechanical work on the piston.
Mechanical work of the piston to mechanical work of the alternator.
Mechanical work of the alternator to electric current.
Electric current into chemical potential of the HHO.
Chemical potential of the HHO into mechanical work on the piston.

All of these stages, added up, mean you get a small fraction of the chemical potential of the gasoline into the actual work done by the HHO. Even if they were all 100% efficient conversions, all it would do is break even, which STILL would incur a slight penalty to economy due to the extra weight the additions represent. Worthless.

2.) You inject only the oxygen.

In theory, this could work slightly (and only slightly) better than gasoline/air. However, not only would it still be a net loss (the more complete combustion could never make up for the energy required to split the water molecules) but, at best, the ECU is going to fuck with the fuel-air ratio after detecting the lean detection, and, at worst, you're going to trash your engine from pre-ignition and detonation on almost every power stroke

3.) You inject only the hydrogen.

The hydrogen will not react with the burning gasoline. It's just going to eat up oxygen that could have been used to burn fuel, instead. And, since you're already at a net loss of energy through simply producing the hydrogen, all it does is worsen fuel economy.

You could, I suppose, only inject some ratio of oxygen/hydrogen, but since the hydrogen's just a straight-up waste of space in the cylinder and the oxygen doesn't affect burn efficiency enough to make it worth producing, there's no "sweet spot" for this that makes it worthwhile.

>> No.1215921


It's SO FUCKING EASY to test if this stuff works.

Stick an engine, any engine, on a dynamometer, put a flowmeter on the fuel line, and rev the thing up.

It will be immediately and provably obvious whether or not it works. But no, AT BEST, all the salesman want to show you are cherry-picked readings from an actual car, subject to any number of variables that aren't accounted for. Or just outright faked results.

If this actually worked, it would be used. But the ONLY possible way it actually could is with the additional oxygen, and, at that point, you should be using an oxygen concentrator to simply pull additional oxygen from the air. You'd still need an engine designed for it, and I seriously doubt it would work as intended, even with a concentrator that worked as efficiently as is theoretically possible (which is not 100%, by the way).

>> No.1215985

Yes it is.
They did this test at my uni. Used the same motor that the technical group experimented with.
No measurable change at all.
If I can find my copy of the results I'll post em. But don't hold your breath. If I still have them they are in the attic somewhere.

They got better results from simple alcohol/water injection. Misting it into the intake to cool the charge. Cooler charge = higher density = more power and a bit more efficient burn. Marginally better economy but quite a bit of improvement when the intake air was >90F.

>> No.1216302

Since you might find it difficult to understand actual research, let this bloke explain how stupid the concept is:

>> No.1216306

>alcohol/water injection
Now there's an actually good, proven idea

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1215801 No.1215801 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I have a large cat. He wont fit in any plastic litter boxes. His face hangs over one end and his ass over the other and he shits on the floor because why not.

I'm looking to build a custom litter box out of wood and I need to know what kind of heavy duty coat I can put on the wood that will be waterproof and durable enough to withstand cat scratching and wear from scraping with a metal scoop.

I was thinking of something like rhinolining, but it doesn't seem like you can just buy that stuff in a can.


10 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1216081

Using two kiddie pools, one inverted and used as a lid for the other, would be the best, cheapest solution. Only if the size is right for the OP. Most are fairly large.

>> No.1216126

either just a tray or let them outside

>> No.1216131


This is what I used to use when my cat would track litter everywhere.

>> No.1216136

theyre huge though

>> No.1216154
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Kekd but also knowthatfeel.jpeg

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1215798 No.1215798 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

This looked good, so I made it:


Apart from a few small problems it works ok. But it won't lift any weight. I wonder if it's the adapter I'm using.

It's a 12v motor (He uses a 15v adapter)

I don't know enough about electronics to know what I'm possibly doing wrong.

I tried a few adapters, laptops, printers etc.

Best result from; 12v 1A

Second best; 14v 800mA

Tried 19v 3.42A but it would barely turn it in a jerky fashion.

Any help greatly appreciated!

7 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1215836

I forgot to mention, if the counterweight system takes up too much space under the mechanism and monitor, you can set it off to the side and make the stick an L shape so only a small portion of thickness of the stick is under the lift at any time.

>> No.1215992

Counterweight on a screw drive might help. Generally it's the roughness on the threads and nut. Those things aren't designed to be linear actuators. Just a thought, but you might try putting flitz on the rod and running the nut back and forth with a drill. Basically trying to polish the surfaces. That or sandpaper and a buffing wheel to remove burrs.
not a good idea. Levers add friction.
A pulley and weight system or balance spring (instead of weight) will be easier to tune and fit.
Give me a sec to cobble up a horrible mspaint sketch.

>> No.1216001
File: 31 KB, 791x703, sadexcuseforadrawing.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

More like a sash weight, but the weight can be replaced by a long springy spring thing.

>> No.1216037

That "leg" the pulley attaches to is the only thing missing from my original pulley idea. I scrapped it because I figured the monitor was too tall to allow room. Hence the lever with a roller that is shaped like an "L". The stick wouldn't touch it, just a roller.

>tfw i recently had to replace ropes on like 15 sash weights on windows previous faggot owners had painted shut.

>> No.1216167

This has become so complicated. Why wouldn't you just use an electric car window mechanism?

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1215792 No.1215792 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I've currently got a light and a switch, simple.

I want to turn that one light into two lights (I've got all the fixtures) and put in a double switch.
I also want to move the switch a fair distance (I also have cabling to run)

I was thinking, use a 3 pole terminal to remove the first switch and run cabling to where I want the new switch.
I would now have 1 live feed coming into a double switch.
1 switch wires to the first light, the second to the the second.

If this makes sense, please will someone confirm my logic - also if you could do me a circuit diagram that would be great!


3 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1215817

Also I don't have lights in my images, so I used penguins.

>> No.1215854

I'll be going to a switch socket, not 2 separate ones.
So I would have have 1 (L/N/E) into the double switch. From that, I'd then go out to two different fixtures?

>> No.1215942

I have no clue what you're even saying. Your OP said a double switch, 2 lights.

All you need to any switch is Line. Line then goes to how ever many lights you want on one switch, as long as it doesn't exceed your breaker or switch amp rating. From the light, Neutral goes back to the breaker box.

>> No.1215980

ok hello op

typically you will have one of two situations, a light controlled by only one switch which will require a single cable, 1 x twin and earth (t&e). if its old the line will be red and the switched live will be black. otherwise brown and blue respectively. the black/blue should be marked with a red/brown stripe somehow ideally.
if the light is controlled by 2 different switches at different positions there will either be 1 3 core & earth (red,yellow,blue or brown,grey,black) or 1 3 core & earth and 1 T&E.
If the light is controlled by more than 2 positions the switch may contain 2 3 core & earth cables.

this is important because each of these 3 scenarios requires a different switch, either a 1 way (a two way or intermediate will do thought), a 2 way (but an intermediate will work) or an intermediate or crossover.
so keep that in mind.

now, if you want to extend wires from their positions you cannot leave cables buried in the wall willy nilly, cables must be in safe zones created by corners and accessories. if you fit a blanking plate you can extend the cable horizontally or vertically.
if you are adding to a circuit you will ideally need to make sure any cables buried less than 50mm unprotected suitably (e.g. steel conduit) are RCD protected.

at a minimum you will need to add an extra core to the drop. you can borrow the line from the existing switch without any trouble but you will need to find a neutral at the light, you probably won't have a neutral at the switch to use and its important you take it from the same circuit as the live from the switch.

lighting in the uk is made complicated because of the number or methods used its easy to catch out the unwary.

your breaker should be 5A fuse or 6A breaker, 1.5mmsq used to be standard but 1mmsq should handle anything you throw at it even accounting for the installation method which you should be aware of, check out the relevant regulations regarding derating factors.

>> No.1215996

How do you calculate parallel penguins? I only know series.

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1215779 No.1215779 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

So I smashed the screen of my trusty old Samsung galaxy S3 Neo. The problem is that unlike in the standard s3, the neo's screen is one singular part with the LCD, so the whole thing needs to be replaced despite the LCD working percectly. Getting it replaced by a professional would cost as mutch as the phone itself, but the part itself is affordable so Im thonking about buying it and doing it myself. How do I make sure that I get the right part? How do I avoid low quality stuff? And where should I buy it? Would Ebay work?

1 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1215812

I swapped the lcd in the standard s3 twice, had no problems doing it or finding a quality part off of ebay. Should be pretty straightforward OP

>> No.1215835

Don't sink anymore money into the s3. The s5 is only 130 dollars and it's much better. It's the last Galaxy to keep the removable battery and microSD support.

>> No.1215866

get a complete working phone from ebay with a bad esn or imei, that way you have a better chance of it being a genuine samsung screen. the replacement lcds on ebay are a hit and miss, and usually die anyways after a year or so of use.

>> No.1215867

and of course take said phone apart and use with your main board

>> No.1215868

I usually get my replacement screens on amazon, but ebay is usually cheaper. Just find your model number and match that to the one listed. Look at their reviews, usually on amazon I find a screen that has lots of realistic looking reviews saying it's got good fit and clarity. I once bought an LCD for my old ipod touch without checking the reviews and it turned out the new screen was lower quality, and harder to see in the sunlight.

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1215761 No.1215761 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

why is nobody manufacturing everlasting light bulbs?

is it possible to diy?

15 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1216026

I bought a desk lamp and a bulb freshman year in College, 6 years later, same lamp 8-10 hours a day on average open, still working.

WTF, I moved 4 times since then as well, and survived

>> No.1216046

At our old house we had a bathroom light fixture with four bulbs, and one of them kept working for like a decade while all the others had been replaced multiple times. I think it was still working when I just replaced all four with new halogens.

He was a good bulb.

>> No.1216060

Byron the bulb

>> No.1216069 [DELETED] 

Actually if you read about the subject a light bulb can last for 100 years. But they realized they would be out of business, so they designed them to fail....see http://www.centennialbulb.org/

>> No.1216070

oops didnt read thread

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1215608 No.1215608 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Thats what it says in a Toroidal transformer i got. I want to build a small tube amp or tube preamp, will it be useful? If it doesnt, what sort of toroidal do i need for that? Im most interested in the tube preamp anyways.

10 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1215887

how do i google these

>> No.1215888

okay found it its a "gerth". but how do i go with these two to the 260V output? how many of those do i need here?

>> No.1215892

tell us what voltage and current your amplifier is going to be designed to draw and i will happily read the values from the picture and tell you if it will work or not.

>> No.1215934
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Have a look at the circuit diagram at >>1215713. The upper left transformer supplies 12VAC which is then rectified and stabilized for the heater(s). This is the +12V connection in the pre-amp diagram at >>1215613. The nominal voltage is 2x 6.3V = 12.6V. If you insert the (grey) diode in the ground pin of the 7812 you get 12.6V rather than 12V.

The other transformer produces the 230VAC that is rectified and filtered for the anode voltage of 260V. The voltage directly after the rectifier is about 325V and the resistors can be calculated to leave 260V as the loaded output voltage. The total resistance of the filter chain would be (325-260)/1.5mA = 433K or 2x 220K if you leave off the 8K2 resistor. The two capacitors can be the same as in the pre-amp, 47µF/450V.

Now the numbers in the pre-amp diagram do not add up: V1b (250-160)/68K = 1.32mA, V1a (250-140)/270K = 0.41mA, sum is 1.731mA but (260-250)/8K2 = 1.22mA. I used 1.5mA as the total anode current of V1a plus V1b to calculate the transformer. The net power is 3.8W.

>2 secondaries of 9V
9VAC is not enough for the heater circuit and 18VAC is too much, you would need to heat away a lot.
>back to back and get 240V
That's what I did, look at the diagram: 230|12 -> 12|230.

You do not need to use the suggested transformers, it's just the smallest solution. Any two 230/12 5W types will do equally well. Maybe 230/15 could also work for the anode voltage, didn't try it yet.

Good night for now, I need more sleep..

>> No.1215937

thank you. theres an equivalent of the transformator i mentioned but instead of two 9V it gives 12V. will read what you put if i can make up something out of it.

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1215593 No.1215593 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

i was out walking the other day and i found a broken hoverboard, the ones with 2 wheels. the aluminum frame was broken so thatd why i assume the threw it out. anyways, since then ive salvaged the 2 motors/wheels and thr battery pack, and i was thinking about bolting a sprocket to the end of the wheel and chaining it to my bike to effectively make an ebike. i have a few questions.
1. whats the best way to drive the motors? ive looked up videos of people driving them with just the 3 thicker wires, but do i need to use the 5 pin connector to use it safely? is it just 3 phase power? what sort of driver should i get?
2. how should i charge the battery? its a 10s, 36v li-ion battery pack made of 18650 cells. it already has a board on it, so could i pump 36v into it anf have it charge itself, or will i need a more specialized charger, like an imax one?
i appriciate any responses and there will be plenty more pictures posted

11 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1215680

sounds like i need to use the sensors then, its probably going to be working a lot of low torque. what would i google in order to find one then. the motors themselves are 350w, is finding one at that wattage possible cheaply?

>> No.1215694


"brushless ebike controller"
"brushless scooter controller"

You need to know what the nominal voltage of the pack is, though. Whatever controller you get needs to have a max volt rating that matches the batteries. A higher voltage rating is okay only if the controller doesn't have a low-voltage cutout, which is often included to protect the batteries from over-discharge.

The amp rating (which the controller will set as a limit) should be at or lower than the maximum that the batteries can provide. Going too high will either damage the batteries over time, or trip any over-current sensing on the battery's protection circuit.

350W each or 350W total? 700W sounds like a lot for a hoverboard, but IDK...

>> No.1215771

theyre 350w each, so 700w total. i know, theyre probably exagerating, but thatsbthe specs i got when looking it up.

>> No.1215953

i still need a way to charge the batteries. how do i safely charge a 36v li-ion batter pack?

>> No.1216303

You still have the rest of the hoverboard? Look it up, see if you can just buy the charger for it.

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1215586 No.1215586 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

i gotta fabricate a couple plastic parts. Or at least approximate them for a prototype.

they're too big to get 3d printed at a reasonable price. I'd like to machine my own molds for injection molding. I live near a TechShops and I took classes on it, but i wont be willing to pay the monthly fee for a while, and I dont want to put this all off and lose momentum.

It's this and another thats basically the same but inverted to fit around the lip, and no disc in the middle.
Is there an economical and fast solution that might produce better results than just slicing up PVC pipe and gluing it all together.

>> No.1215972

If it's too expensive to 3d print it's too expensive to inject mold unless you have access to an industrial injection molder. Small ones will inject like 11g, basically trinkets

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1215577 No.1215577 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

By my rough estimate, one teaspoon of Dawn dish detergent contains the detergent power of about a cup of shampoo or body wash or roughly 40x more grime cutting power. I happen to have about a gallon of Dawn from Costco that would last me several lifetimes were I to just use it for dishwashing. How do I homebrew my own shampoo and body wash using Dawn? I am assuming I need to cut the Dawn down with some kind of bulk or moisturizer or something of the sort. Can /diy/ help formulate me a recipe?

>> No.1215580

>I am assuming I need to cut the Dawn down with some kind of bulk or moisturizer or something of the sort.
why not try just watering it down first and seeing how it goes

>> No.1215585

And just have it run through my hands and down the drain whenver I try to use it?

>> No.1215614

>not life hacking by applying directly to head

>> No.1215615

Why not just use a pea-sized amount in your hair? The water will foam it up as you rub it in.

>> No.1215682

It will cause hairless, I knew some meathead sank that did, thought she was saving money. Either that or the meth made her loose her hair.

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1215531 No.1215531 [DELETED]  [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Greetings, /diy/
I'm looking for some kind of nuclear engineering books and more material so I can design a diy small nuclear (fission) reactor. It's just for academical purposes, but I'd like to make it real afterworks.
Google don't help too much. Any idea? Are there any reference over the Internet?

Thank you

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1215491 No.1215491 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

So I'm re-caulking the inside corners and around the tub (blue lines) because the caulk was getting moldy but as you can see there are two places where the inside corners meet the outside edge of the wall tile (red lines) which has perfectly good caulk.

I know caulking over old caulk is a big no no but I'd really hate to remove the caulk alongside the outside edge because that would ruin the paint. So I wonder if there is a high risk of moisture seeping in where blue meets red due to a bad bond should I choose not to remove all the caulk there or maybe it's all good since water should not be reaching that high anyway.

>> No.1215517

why are you here op?
you know what the options are, what the room is like, how messy you are in the shower, where the water goes.
do you really trust the opinion of an anonymous stranger over your own?

you will inevitably get two kinds of reply telling you to go either way. which one will you take and which will you ignore?

the truth is you already know what is the right way to do it and you already know what solution you are going to adopt, you are simply here to ease your conscience.

this is simply procrastination.

>> No.1215529

IF and IF the shower was installed correctly, you don't need to seal any of those lines. There will be cement board and a moisture barrier behind it. The grout does the work of dispersing the water appropriately.

The only place to seal is the one you didn't mark: where the basin meets the floor of the bathroom. you don't want any seepage into that joint.

>> No.1215559

u can use a anti mold spray on the moldy looking sealant or remove all blue line sealant + the bit on floor as already mentioned and re-seal. The join between the old sealant (red lines) and the new (blue) will be fine. Just make sure that basin to floor line is also sealed.

>> No.1215563

just buy a new house

>> No.1215643

I know but... the paint. I was just doing some preemptive work and now I have to PAINT? Before opening this thread I had already removed most of the blue line caulk and was ready to seal the whole thing, but then I reached the top inner corners and realized the outside edge was caulked aswell.

>IF and IF the shower was installed correctly, you don't need to seal any of those lines
Well, that's just not something I would know. I'm just replacing like for like here, and I'm definitely not leaving an open gap there.
>The only place to seal is the one you didn't mark: where the basin meets the floor of the bathroom. you don't want any seepage into that joint.
Should I? There's a grout line there though. On second thought, there is a bit of separation between the grout and the basin. What should I use there?

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1215446 No.1215446 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

bump limit reached on old thread >>1209426

pastebin.com/9UgLjyND (embed)

>I'm new to electronics, where to get started?
There are several good books and YouTube channels that are commonly recommended for beginners and those wanting to learn more, many with advanced techniques. The best way to get involved in electronics is just to make stuff. Don't be afraid to get your hands dirty.

>What books are there?

Getting Started in Electronics Forrest Mims III
Make: Electronics Charles Platt
How to Diagnose Fix Everything Electronic Michael Jay Greier

All New Electronics Self-Teaching Guide: Kybett, Boysen
Practical Electronics for Inventors: Paul Scherz and Simon Monk

The Art of Electronics by Paul Horowitz

>What YouTube channels are there?

>What websites feature electronics projects or ideas?

>Where do I get components and lab equipment from?

>What circuit sim software do you use?
This mostly comes down to personal preference. These are the most common ones though:
NI Multisim
iCircuit for Macs

>What software should I use to layout boards?
Circuit Wizard

94 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1216282

Alright really appreciate the help. Im going to research more about opamp circuits and how they work, but this helps me plan what to buy now and continue with prototyping.

>> No.1216286

I thought about using a gaussian surface, but luminous flux going one way doesn't cancel luminous flux going the opposite direction, so I can't cancel out the light going in different directions and treat it as a 2-dimensional problem. Also I meant I've got its cd/m value. How the fuck did they work out its intensity in the first place?

>> No.1216307

why not use spice

>> No.1216308

what the fuck you. Just think of it as infinite and do a cylinder arround it. Then you have the flux per lenght. Jesus fuck people

>> No.1216309

Also what kind of stuff uses candela? It's retarded. Just use lumens

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1215429 No.1215429 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Are walls small floors, or are floors big walls?

8 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1215489

Doesn't discount their similarities.

>> No.1215502

You need to quit your shit and get a real job. Maybe Ud learn something useful other than trolling.

Walls are compressed axialy with respect to the core of the wood. Also their not necessarily load bearing.

Floors are not. They are compressed perpendicularly to the grain and are guaranteed to be load bearing. This also means various members of a floor will find themeselves either in tension or compression.

Why you killed a thread for simple wiki shit you wrapped up as a shitty physlisophical question basically tells me you're a NEET with nothing better to do and should be ashamed of hindering someone else's education for your bullshit and internal issues.

Go back to /b fagget.

>> No.1215515

Jesus, you sound like an anal retentive faggot. While what you've said about load is true (though only a fraction of buildings are made of wood), a wall is at it's core a floor stood on edge and vice versa. I'm actually a wood framer by trade and this is the chicken or egg question I have with my buddies. I was curious to hear the opinions here but apparently there are none. I personally go for the floor.

>> No.1215525

Educate yourselves:

>> No.1215550

This is autism. Please join us in the real world anon.

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1215424 No.1215424 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Are walls big floors, or are floors small walls?

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1215420 No.1215420 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

so every time I would ride this bike it would feel like the cog would get stuck st some point then you would hear a crunch and it would fall out of fears or the chain would come loose.

On top of that the bike would seem very slow when it felt as if it was running smooth.People on cheap looking bikes would fly past me a lot of the time and I felt like I had to put a lot more effort into getting my speed up than other people (I'm fit and healthy)

How do I fix it what parts would you recommend ?

Btw I took it to a local bike shop last year and they tried to rip me off so I don't really have any where to take it to now.

>> No.1215433

Clean and lube your drivetrain. Also look up how to adjust your front and rear derailleur.

>> No.1215436


if the guide isnt clear look up a youtube video.

>> No.1216027

well it sounds like >>1215433 is right.
Without any other info it sounds like you have your derailleur gears misalligned. So you are in a shitty gear and when you try to switch gears the chain slips off and then catches again. And if the chain is on the small end on both sides (because it slipped off the big side and didn't go up a size on the other one) then you end up with a slack chain and it comes loose.

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1215403 No.1215403 [DELETED]  [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Hi diy, I'm trying to get a hold of the bitcoin concept, looking into faucets and such. But I want to earn some bitcoin (reasonably), any tips on how to make some scratch.
>> Inb4 Google /gambling /stockmarket

If it's still possible to mine some stupid small amount of bitcoin, still I'd be intrigued. Or possible easy jobs

>> No.1215407

I don't know anything about it, but I do know that Bitcoin is hard to make money on since it's so popular and worth so much.
/biz/ seems to be almost solely about fagcoins, try there.

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