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/diy/ - Do-It-Yourself

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1149873 No.1149873 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I need your help to figure this shit out

I bought an ice cream freezer, I need to install a thermostat so I can use it as a fridge to store water.

How fucking ever, the freezer comes with a heating element around the frame and a fan located in front of the compressor, I have no idea what turns on the fan or even why it comes with a fan, or why the hell it has a heating element (regular chest freezers don't come with fans or heating elements) since the damned thing only comes with a single turning switch with 7 lvls of temperature (7 is the lowest)

I wanted to install a stc1000 thermostat, so I can still use it as a freezer if I want. But I have no idea how the thing works with those extra elements.
Pics below

17 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1149935


integrating it its way more complicated, fuck, im gonna make a diagram of it integrated for aesthetics purposes

>> No.1149948

If the digital thermostat fails you just unplug it and still have a functioning freezer.
If you want to sell it later you can sell it as an unmodified ice cream freezer.
If you 'mod' it, you're stuck with it like that unless you do it in such a way it can be undone.

sup 2 U

>> No.1150012

get a side by side off craigslist for free or cheap

move the F on

>> No.1150030

Yes heaters in the freezer is to prevent manual defrosting.

>> No.1150076
File: 37 KB, 480x480, 1490316470224.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>IE: when the thermostat tell it to make cold
Freezers don't 'make cold', they remove heat.
Then you have to remove that heat from the system itself.
>ITT nobody understands refrigeration.

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1149848 No.1149848 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Is it possible to make a 2 stroke 6-cylinder axial engine, wherein 3 pistons serve as air pumps for the opposing cylinder?

It makes sense to me. One piston functions as a pump to force fresh air/fuel mixture into the opposing cylinder where the actual combustion happens.

The first drawing is a diagram of how 1 pair of pumping and combustion cylinders would work.
The second drawing is a top view. O cylinders are pumping cylinders and X cylinders are combustion cylinders, with the arrows pointing in the direction of air flow.

>> No.1149849
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>> No.1149879
File: 38 KB, 720x400, pooh.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>> No.1149923

so it's some convoluted way to put a motor driven turbo on a 2 stroke?

>> No.1149925

>One piston functions as a pump to force fresh air/fuel mixture into the opposing cylinder


Cylinders are perfectly capable of pumping their own fuel/exhaust. Near as I can tell, all this arrangement would do is increase pumping losses in the extra manifold, plus add some friction thanks to the extra cylinder and swash plate.

If it's supposed to cram more fuel-air mixture into the cylinder, why would you bother with separate pumps for each piston when a supercharger/turbocharger will do the same thing, better, in less space?

File: 112 KB, 910x450, router lift and router.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1149840 No.1149840 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Anyone here made the router lift from ShopNotes magazine no. 121? It seems to be a really popular router lift on the net and looks simple enough to build so I want to give it a go.

Only problem is the router lift is designed to fit a regular round router in a clamping system whereas I only own a plunge router which is more of an oval shape. Also my router tapers a little thinner towards the top so I can't think of a good way to modify the plans to mount my router in a clamping system as intended in the original plans.

Any ideas /diy/?

1 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1149865

if you already have a plunge router, take the easy way out

find a crappy table, preferably in the trash
cut a hole for the bit
drill and coutersink some holes for mounting screws
mount the router to it
adjust depth by changing plunge amount on router

the only thing you might need to buy is some longer screws, but otherwise, it can be done for practically nothing

>> No.1150020

This is what I'm doing atm but it's kinda hard to unlock it and push it upwards from underneath the table to increase my cutting depth. Sometimes unlocking it causes the springs to decompress and I lose what my height was at. If a router lift can't be done then I'll just keep putting up with it. It's just kinda annoying and I'd rather something that can be incrementally adjusted.

>> No.1150021

th-thanks Lenny

>> No.1150027

I see what you're saying

I basically did exactly what I mentioned, and it is somewhat of a pain to adjust, but then again I'm not using it every day

something like this might be a good idea: http://www.instructables.com/id/Router-Table-Fine-Tune-Depth-Adjustment-for-5/?ALLSTEPS

>> No.1150041

That looks much simpler! Thanks man, I'll look into this design.

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1149794 No.1149794 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

What can I do to get a good, cheap, working spacesuit?

16 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1150142


Hey OP, I have an Idea.
Are you really going to space? Like do you plan to use this? If not just buy a cheap spacesuit costume and go crazy decorating it to make it real(ish). You should also stop by a doctors office to get your extreme autism diagnosed

>> No.1150143
File: 336 KB, 1280x960, opisprobablygoingtodrowninapondwhentestinghisretardsuit.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

rip op

>> No.1150184

>Good looking
>Doesn't kill you
Pick two

>> No.1150196


>> No.1150199

A cardboard box can be anything you want it to be with the power of imagination!

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1149730 No.1149730 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

first of all sorry if my english is weird, its not my native tounge, but ill do my best.
so i got this KVM switcher and i want to recycle it. i make weird music that is based on heavy effect processed sounds. (for instance a lot of guitar pedals can be used, rack FX units, etc).
so i wanted to make this into a weird audio mixer/looper. the order of stuff and whats on and off can expande the possibilities of sounding fast.

but im kinda slow today and cant get a concrete idea. but i was thinking hooking a lot of FX loops (send and returns), to be used each with a singe FX unit. so we have Loops, say 8. L1, L2, L3, etc.

so... what i would like this thing to do, from the most basic to the ideal (not sure if possible) goals.

that it could switch between:
1- On/Off loops in a static order.
2-On/Off loops in switcheable order.
both 1 and 2 are based on a mono input and mono output. no weird routing or panning stuff that will be present on option 3:
3-same as above but also having a mono-stereo split somewhere, so for example
signal in-loop1-splitter-
split2-loop2-loop6-loop8-loop loop5-out2
where out 1 could be a hard panned L and out 2: same but R.

we can think most FXs have a gain stage so everything can be pasive.

im a bit confused right now. also checking the circuit board. i supose this is just a 13 pin switcher, each big switch connects input to output and thats it.

for option 2 and 3 i would have to add more individual switches, this would in a certain form, program the 4 main switches.

4 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1149804

bumping, is diy fast?

>> No.1149838

anyone? tips?

>> No.1149841

not really my thing, but.. i think you getting too freaked on finding a use for what is an essentialy useless POS. The KVM is (manually) switching 4 into 1 (15 - 15 pins) or presumably backwards 1 into 4; selecting an output will spring release the previously selected (?) - idk wtf else you actually can do with that setup, its not especially promising.

But maybe someone else might - /diy/ is slow tho, thread be around for a while - no replies after a few days? bump it then

>> No.1149978

okkk, ill see if anyone else drops in.
but yes, its basically a 4 position 15 pin switch.
so im thinking on using the 15 pins each as single audio chain, swomewhay modified with added shwitches, so i could change through a bunch of audio chains fast. not sure how yet though. thanks!

>> No.1150212

down to page 5, this is the final bump, last try, thonkssss

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1149726 No.1149726 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Hey guys i'm making a semi-serious rail-gun for fun and I thought I'd ask if you guys could give me some advice/tips to make it great as possible such as effective power efficient configurations for example etc.

pic unrelated

>> No.1149734

Ok. Rail/coil hybrid.
A magnetic field will react with coils better than ferrous material alone.
So shoot iron darts wrapped in coils engergized by a bisected conductive barrel liner. Contact through conductive stabalizing fins. Electromagnets can be cheaper and stronger that shooting permanent magnets.
This system can run on timed pulses from multiple smaller capacitor banks instead of one massive charge. Easier to salvage parts.
Use ir triggers in the barrel instead of timing maths and start it with compressed air. Could even load each in a modified shell casing with a burst disk instead of a primer. So you can use a magazine and maximize air pressure without complex valves.

>> No.1149742 [DELETED] 

Thank you.

>> No.1149747

Do you know where I could buy the helical parts?

>> No.1149751

Wouldn't a copper projectile experience less drag though?

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1149725 No.1149725 [DELETED]  [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

What do you guys think of home automation technology?

2 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1149832

>home automation technology
i really like the flush toilet, the room thermostat, and the toaster that turns itself off. things that automate the unpleasant jobs we had to do every day.

but 'home automation' as presented by silicon valley feels like those enrichment toys they give to animals in the zoo. RFID socks and always-on telephone shopping aren't solving anything, it's a band-aid for incurable boredom.

>> No.1149835

And, we don't like stealth marketing

>> No.1149853

I have a Vivint system as well as some Alexa controlled stuff. It's cool. I mostly like my door alarms and autolocks. The lighting is just overkill, but I still can't stay away from it. Whenever I remodel a room, I always add automation.

>> No.1150048

I love it, honestly. I've always had a boner for 'Good evening, Mr. Wayne' type stuff.
Most of my lighting, thermostat, my stereo setup, and my window blinds are all automated and voice activated.
I'm waiting on various gewgaws and things to set my tub up to fill itself, against my better judgment.

Protect your shit and it's botnet free. That shit storm with Level 3 was because of idiots not having passwords on their WiFi.

>> No.1150061

CIA spynet.

get a gun.

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1149708 No.1149708 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Hello /diy/,

I'm installing higher MP cameras in garage and on the outside of my house.

I'm keeping my DVR so I'm just buying new cameras and a bigger 2TB HE'S.

What type of connects are these called (these go to the cameras)

3 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1149763

Google it numbnut

>> No.1149770

>2.1mm DC power plug
'barrel connector' and OP needs to get the center diameter correct

>> No.1149842

It's a common BBC connector and a barrel plug. Strip the barrel plug and wire nut in power if you don't have the right connection

>> No.1150050

Ball warmer power connectors.

>> No.1150107
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Hes been quiet of late - should we be worried, or, v. worried indeed?.

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1149707 No.1149707 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

What kind of drill do I need for these pesky bastards?

16 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1149858

>I got eight lug rear ends and cast iron manual transmissions that way.
>Why so many lugs?
eight lugs refers to the number of lug bolts on the hub - not the number of differentials.
rear ends are also identified by the number of bolts on the cover
>and transmissions?
cast iron transmissions are getting more difficult to find and sell at a premiim- they are generally tougher than cast aluminum ones - get'em while you can

>> No.1149931

what 3rd world country do you live in OP

>> No.1149959

The USA, however in a shitty desert as you can probably tell

>> No.1150172
File: 76 KB, 600x337, cut-off-wheel-2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I just use a whiz wheel. Use it like a mobile bench grinder and shave the thing flat. It's soft enough so it will take a few seconds.

>> No.1150180

'Merican manufacturers love rivets

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1149685 No.1149685 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Does anyone have experience with using Plastic Dip? I'm thinking of spraying my car rims a matte black, but I've never used this stuff before.

3 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1149837

Don't be lazy op, do this

>> No.1149839


better get those tires re-balanced after doing that shit...

>> No.1149883

Thanks a lot, I'm going to try it this weekend. Hopefully it turns out alright

>> No.1150064

Its easy to work with. You want at least 4 coats. 1 light and then 3+ cover coats. Yiunwont need to balance after.

>> No.1150077

I plasti dipped my entire '94 Jetta matte black because I hated the forest green color.
Took me two days and about $90 worth of Plasti dip cans but it looked pretty fucking legit.
Only part that looked shitty was the hood because I didn't take it off to spray it and ended up with some striping. You couldn't even tell if you were more than 5 feet from it though.

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1149679 No.1149679 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Can someone explain how I would go about getting internet to my shed.

I have wifi in my house, and it would be handy to be able to watch youtube guides in my shed when I'm doing things.

I've looked on google, but I can't find a simple explanation, and I know very little about routers etc.

Pic unrelated.

17 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1149887

The idea is to both block out unwanted signal, and to hopefully gather more of the signal you want, like in a parabolic dish.

Personally, I've wondered about whether or not it actually works, and if a yagi might be better. But I'm not an RF geek.

>> No.1150127

You're better off running a cable. You could build a pair of parabolic dishes tuned to focus on each other at that distance but you'll end up spending more time and money than you would have with the cable.

>> No.1150202

I bought an asus signal repeater for my cuck shed. Works like a charm.

>> No.1150231

try the powerline ethernet adapters. check on amazon. screw wireless

>> No.1150236

How about using some preterminated fiber and a pair of media converters.

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1149644 No.1149644 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

How much better are the heavy stationary table saw with cast iron beds than the job site ones commonly found at Home Depot?

Also, what a 3 hp saw do that a 1.5 hp saw cannot?

>> No.1149646

>3 hp
inexperienced marketers spreading the bullshit too thick

>> No.1149649

Do you want to rip more than 24 inchs at a time ?

Do you want to balance a 4x8 sheet on a 24 inch table or 36 or 48 inch table.

Do you want a fence longer than a 1 1/2 feet.

>> No.1149650

I'm talking about the bigger 240v saws which do actually have 3hp induction motors

>> No.1149652

It won't trip that 15 amp 120 breaker when you're burning your way through a maple 2x12x14

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1149627 No.1149627 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Fucking Nielsen broke the door on our TV.
The peg on the left side is nowhere to be found.
What's the best way to fabricate a new one?

5 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1150116

when did you last adjust these settings? glue it back on who cares.

>> No.1150140
File: 19 KB, 500x400, phila-roll.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Slap of duct tape over it. Fuck the door. Get on the floor

>> No.1150144

yeah, i'd way rather have a smart tv whisking all my data off to China instead of a plastic door that breaks after 28 years of use.

>> No.1150155

its a not entirely invalid point you have there, desu. But 28 years of a 150-250W? usage CRT, vs prob 40-65W LCD with standby etc, that probably mounts up some. I take you ain't big on HD sports or stuff either.. but, long may your caps hold.

The SMART fuckers, manual set their IP to - and even I draw the line at any model with an inbuilt mic, like, fuck that.

>> No.1150160

>but, long may your caps hold.

that's another point. The 28 year old TV is user repairable with any decent soldering iron. The components are huge and the boards are often hand-made, so there is much room to manipulate.

Reflowing or replacement of SMD/SMT components on new hardware is above the paygrade of even most savvy consumers.

Sure, you could blackhole it on the network, but then that cripples almost all of the features on the thing. Many smart TVs will hardly work without connection.

You have a point about power consumption ; and that makes me yearn for an industry trend of non-smart TVs with new hardware and technology, but I think that boat has sailed.

As for standby power usage : power strip. Old TVs have no data to lose when you unplug them, and they surely can't produce a standby drain when disconnected. Sounds like a power-strip is the superior choice in that regard.

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1149625 No.1149625 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Making Your Crystals

Boil the water
Stir in the sugar, a little at a time, until it no longer dissolves and there is a little at the bottom
Add a few drops of food coloring to the water, if you want colored crystals
Add the water to the jar
Tie the string to the butter knife
Set the knife on top of the glass jar so that the string hangs in the jar without touching the sides or bottom
Set the jar somewhere safe
Check back in a day and you should see some crystals already growing
Let the crystals grow until they have reached the desired size
Remove the string and allow crystals to dry

You will need
1 cup water
3 cups table sugar (sucrose)
1 clean glass jar
1 butter knife
1 pan or bowl for boiling water and making solution
1 spoon
Food coloring (optional)

10 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1150133

Can confirm, just died

>> No.1150173

How's the afterlife?

>> No.1150214

This is more /ck/ related, but could you put some extracts in the solution to add flavor to the colored sugar water?

I've got green food coloring, and mint extract, and I'd probably use a wood dowel instead of a string.

>> No.1150241

Breathing it fucks you up a great deal. I've had whiffs of it from other projects and there's no way I'd want to get a lungful like how the instructions would let you end up getting.

Yes, that should work to some extent.

>> No.1150262
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>Read the replies
>So many cringy faggots shouting about the /b/ post like autists they are
>Op joins them
It's like scrolling facebook comments but with autistic fuckwits

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1149582 No.1149582 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I have some new potted plants and have been seeing quite a few gnats flying around. I finally took a bright flashlight and founds some gnat eggs. I collected and destroyed about 12-15 eggs.

What do I do to stop them? I'm a plant noob and was probably over watering, but I've read to let the top of the soil dry up to kill the gnats, so I'll do that. Anything else? I mixed white vinegar and some dish soap in some bowls and set them out for a few days, 0 gnats caught in any of the traps. Did I not do it right?

8 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1149640

A piece of yellow plastic smeared with a thin layer of petroleum jelly. Attach to a stick or hang from a thread near the plants.

>> No.1149696

Those come with some bought soil to absorb water and release it slowly so the plants can go longer without watering. I think you can even buy them to mix with soil.

Gnats usually mean overwatering. Let soil dry between waterings.
Let it go until plant starts to show slight wilting, then see how heavy the pot is. Use that info for future reference.

>> No.1149860

Just mist it onto the dirt or plant? It won't damage the plant?

Thanks, will use this.

I did find 3 little worm looking things in one plant, maybe the eggs are from those and not gnats?

>> No.1149871

those aren't eggs lmao

>> No.1150010

Apply diatomaceous earth as a top soil, at least .5 inches. Also get some neem oil, and spray not only the plant, but the top soil too.

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1149526 No.1149526 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Now I don't have a lathe yet, but having a look at this neat-looking tape measure I thought it looked like a nice simple wood-turning project with which to get used to speeds and feeds. Since this thing doesn't seem mass produced I decided there must be some sort of tape measure kit that you build your own housing for. After scouring the web I only found cheap plastic-case tape measures, nothing at all without a case, not even bulk. I find this a little surprising since there's probably a market for this, like there is in pen inserts.

The tape measure doesn't lock; it's just got a piece of electrical tape to stop the spring retracting the measuring tape. A locking one would be more practical, but I'm not picky.

Has anyone else found one or had this problem before? Thoughts?

1 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1149548

Unless you want it beacause aesthetic i suggest you to just get a professional one.

Cheap plastic is waste of money
Look for 3M, mine lasted 15 years before I accidentally it

>> No.1149549

I'm suggesting he buy it for it's guts, not to use day to day. Only time I have had tape measures fail is because the spring broke off/through the plastic where it anchors to the body, even the cheapest piece of shit should have a tape and spring that will outlive the wooden body.

>> No.1149550


>> No.1149562
File: 22 KB, 670x164, IMG_3979.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I was referring to pen inserts as in the ones that you turn a wooden pen for, as opposed to the replaceable ink cartridges. Like pic related. It's not like these pen insets are more replaceable than a tape measure tape, they're much less so in fact.

Handymen and /diy/ers aren't the only people who use tape measures, there's a semi-substantial market for tape measures in the tabletop community for measuring across the table. You know how much those guys like their olde rustic props. It shouldn't be too hard to fabricate a lock button either.

That's probably what I'd do for just a single tape measure or two, but if I was to make a bunch then I'd want something a little more economical and less wasteful than throwing out a dozen plastic cases.

Oh hey, and you can buy springs separately too. Thanks for the tip!

>> No.1149578
File: 117 KB, 1100x1100, iCg_TapeMeasure100ft.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Locking one would take some more in-depth fnangling to get working, but if you're after old school they still make the odd wind-up type tape measure and with some polished brass on the winding handle could be pretty nice

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1149519 No.1149519 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

My work vrf

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1149509 No.1149509 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Car has some pretty rough rust spots, anything I can coat it in to delay the inevitable?

I'm afraid to wash my car, let alone get a little worried when it rains.

>> No.1149511

First get most of the rust off by use of wirebrush, or a product like CLR.
Vinegar works like CLR, but slower.

Then either;
Apply a rust converter, such as Brunox (EU), or Krust (UK).


Brush in multiple coats of 75:25 Boiled Linseed Oil and Paint thinner.

>> No.1149604

FluidFilm is good shit. It's no replacement for sanding off the rust spots properly but it slows the progression a lot. Use it on your door gaskets and they won't freeze shut in the winter.

>> No.1149797
File: 771 KB, 1024x680, a-rusty-bucket-of-rusting-rust.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

you can chemically convert a light surface frosting of brown rust into black rust, which won't get any worse after you oil it or paint it.

but you can't stop cornflake brown rust without removing it completely from the good steel. nothing you can apply will stop it. nothing.

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1149499 No.1149499 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

So, anon makes black skulls that burn for stupid money.
>be me
>long story short have log splitter, aluminum foundry, green sand, cardboard and paper shredder for makeshift press.
Wtf do i make to get on top of this train and ride it to the next low hanging bridge anons.

I make only 2 promises.

Nothing will be build from pallet wood or be buried in a shipping container.

3 promises on the assumption someone helps out here. Op will deliver.

10 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1149663

1/3 of a ton confirmed

>> No.1149671

Well hell anon thanks. I cant find them now but i thought they were just fire starters. In any case your info would make for a sick af backyard firepit. When i move i want a wood and alsi another gas fire pit. So depending on mood or time or wtf ever i can choose wtf i want. Nothing beats a bonfire but if i get carried away drinking or it gets late it'd be cool to have an of switch that wasn't a garden hose. Making some smaller skulls could lead to a sick tabletop fire pit also. I havent thought much about making my own refractory. Is it much cheaper than that expensive ass castable stuff?

>> No.1149672

Thought didnt even cross my mind anon. Mix up some copper or wtf ever that shit is that makes green fire. A little coloring in the mix and yiu could tell them apart. Good thinking.

>> No.1149677

Meh. Dont wanna rip them off. Just compete and modify. I guess i can if they ever are back in stock. I have several other mold making stuff and skulls and will experiment.

>> No.1149720

50 lbs. xx Saggar Clay $16
50 lbs. Edgar Plastic Kaolin $20
100 lbs. Grog $60

Best guess is a human sized skull would weigh about 10 pounds, so yield of about 20 per batch. Ought to be able to fill a medium-sized kiln with 20. Worst case scenario for firing would be about $20 in electricity, however renting a firing could cost you an arm and a leg if you don't have potter friends. Uh, let's say you can cover these things with a pint jar of underglaze at $20. Not including shipping, plaster and mold making supplies, I'm estimating material costs per skull to be just shy of $7 each.

Kinda sounds like a fun, dorky project, doesn't it? Most of the effort in molding projects is on the front end.

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1149498 No.1149498 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]


>Purchased a 2 inch LED strip
>Want to run it on battery power, (the smaller the physical size of the battery and housing, the better.)
>The strip is 12v and draws 0.175 amps per foot (strip is 2inch)
>I am illiterate in electrical engineering, please tell me how to power my LED strip with batteries /diy/ you're my last hope.

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>> No.1150049

Okay, I think I have it figured out.

I ordered the following:

If I'm not mistaken, the description of the LED component says there is a built in resistor.

If not I can get a 470 ohm 1/2 watt resistor and stick in there. Please tell me I did good.

>> No.1150065

should work, but battery + switch + resistors / leds is the simpliest at electronics and you already struggle with it. git gud

>> No.1150079

Led strip has resistors built in. I've attached a 12v car battery to a tiny strip and it worked no problem.

Why not try what anon suggested with the 23a12v batteries? They're small and will last much longer than button cells

>> No.1150149

I'm a blacksmith, not an electrician lol what can ya do

>> No.1150152

While I have the thread bumped, I'm thinking black instamorph for the housing.

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