/diy/ - Do It Yourself

SUCCESS!
after fiddling with it for an hour last night i sort of figured out how to work with regular JB weld.

you have to mix it up, and let it sit for an hour or two until its partially set. at that point its a lot more like a putty. then, roughly shape it into what you want. in my case, i put a small screwdriver into the hole in the part, wrapped in clear tape (see previous pic). then i mounded the epoxy around it in the cylindrical shape i wanted. then i quickly wrapped clear tape around it in a tube shape to hold it in place.

the actual knob bit was harder, i had to mix some cornstarch with the epoxy to thicken it up enough to form without running everywhere.

well, if everything goes as planned, ill have fixed the knob for $5.

ok, so, this jb weld is taking forever to set.....

its still the consistency of like...toothpaste....

i couldnt find the correct epoxy putty at the hardware store, all they had was plumbers putty. any ideas?

picked up some supplies and got my work area ready.

got some jb weld, a buffing wheel, some jewelers rouge, 3 in 1 oil (blue label), paint stripper, paint, and a plug for the cord.

still need cord, my buddy has the grease, and some shoelaces.

about to get to work on the knob. wish me luck.

its apparently got a 25 year rot resistance rating or something so I'm going to go with you'll be fine. that's an expensive ass truck bed tho.

what are you going to protect it with...resin? marine stuff?

very interested and cool truck what is it and do you have more pics?

what are you doing for body paint?

>>441460
agreed. they just didn't have the technology back then to make things as cheaply as they do now.

these were pretty much the cheapest or only way of making things. the materials are so much more durable that all the important parts are still working 65 years later. pretty amazing.

but I have to say it does seem like a lot more thought went into making something like a fan more attractive than we put into it today.

so my current idea is to use jb weld or regular epoxy putty to build up the actuator and the knob, then dremel the fingers/teeth out of the built up material.

I figure that if I place a small rod covered with a release agent like Pam or kiwi shoe polish in the center hole I should be able to shape the putty into a cylinder around it then grind down the end into the desired shape.

I am also debating just doing the putty on the actuator half first, shaping it, letting it cure, then applying release agent to the cured putty. I could then repeat the process on the knob and simply push it onto the cured half to shape it perfectly to the actuator.

thoughts? I'll pick up some putty on the way home tomorrow and try it tomorrow evening after work.

once this is done I'm going to move on to the stripping and painting. that's going to take the longest. next the felt base. easy. then, the wires coming off the stator. I'll have to sort out my cloth wire situation at that point. once that's done, I'll begin assembly, greasing, hook everything up and test it out.

here is the inside of my fan. everything looks rusty and nasty but its actually in pretty good shape. you can see the switch installed and the big layered thing at the bottom is the choke coil which controls the fans speed.

Here's a pic of what the fan ought to look like post-restoration.

Cool, no?

Hey guise, need some help restoring an old fan that I've had for years. It was one of those projects that I got started on, put in a closet, and forgot about for a while.

Its a late 1940's GE Vortalex fan. Pictured is the knob and switch. Apparently these breaking is a common problem. Basically, instead of using a non-circular shaft with press-on knob like most are today, the knob was in two pieces; one half was the actual "knob" on the outside of the fan, and the other half was a sort of actuator that locked into the switch mechanism. My best guess is that the knob and actuator had some sort of fingers or teeth that meshed together so that once you screwed the knob on, it moved as one piece.

Those fingers/teeth are gone. How can I rebuilt them?

I've thought of epoxy, epoxy putty, jb weld, etc. Basically, build it up then grind it down into what i think the original shape was like (doesnt have to look original, just has to work).

I will bump with more pics of fan, and a pic of a restored fan (not my work) which is what I'm working towards.

There will be stripping, painting, felting, wiring, soldering, greasing, assembling, and all sorts of other fun stuff going on.

inb4 replace whole knob, use different switch, etc. replacement assemblies are like $40 that's ridiculous, and id like it to look original from the outside.

BT ODB2 + TORQUE APP

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ay-ZvTn3fLo

http://www.amazon.com/Soliport-Bluetooth-OBDII-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B004KL0I9I

>>440780
bracing for impact

>>440725
are you really asking where to buy glue?

what are you trying to do?

>>440590
>that banks actually do their job
>that banks have never fucked up before and, for example, created a housing crisis
>that 90% of people are fucktards and make mistakes
>that banks will do this for you before loan approval, and do it repeatedly as you sift through distressed $10k properties
>that the banks failure to find an encumbrance releases you from liability
>that that this knowledge does not have other value, e.g. price negotiation

dude never trust the bank to do everything for you. the more they will let you control, the more you should. there's a whole host of issues that the bank won't care about but you ought to.

however, most importantly, the bank doesn't start checking this info until youve made an offer and there's a contract on the table. at that point, if the seller accepts, you might be left looking for a way out of the contract. usually its easy to get out if the inspection is bad, but sometimes it becomes a fight.

its much better to go into this having done some free research online about the property before you make an offer. you can condition the offer on the removal of a lien, for example, and settle that issue before you even reach the contract stage.

lastly, in my experience, the bank does do these for you at all: they simply say "we need a title search" and "we need an inspection" then its your job to go get them and prove clear title before they approve a loan.

YMMV, don't take my word for it, gl, etc.

and this is Pongo. The shelter named him and it felt wrong to change his name. nothing fit, so he stayed pongo but we call him "the bad one" or "satan-cat."

contributing oc

this is Pumpkin but we just call her fluffy kitty or "the fat one"

>>439689
>>439701
>>439716
>>439718
>>439660


are you guys retarded?

OP IS ASKING IF HE CAN CONNECT HD TO VGA AND USE IT AS A COMPUTER.

I think I'm well within my rights when I say that setting up a Linux Distro is a bit out of his area of expertise.

Plugging in an Android mini pc is not.

SO,
>>439633
and
>>439690
FTW

ok so im guessing dlls is dollars. i think thats...mexican? so USD is what we are talking about?

what parts do you need?

the picture isnt too great, but it looks like the hinge broke off part of the lcd back/frame.

if its all plastic, i would pull out the lcd and wires, position everything how its supposed to go, then smother the broken area in epoxy.

but i cant imagine the plastic bits costing $100.

please post model number, describe damage (list all broken things), and maybe get better pic with more light and less flash.

>>437807
that is the most jacked up piece of shit ive ever seen

dude if you have never built or flown an rc plane that is not the place to start.

its push, its a biplane, and its got weird ass rudders.

not sure that plane would actually fly man. planes dont look like that for a reason

buy small trim router at harbor freight for like $15

mount under plywood

use engraving bit

>usb to d sub adaptor
lolololol

dude im sorry to laugh but come on
if a hard drive simply stores information
and you connect to directly to a screen
what part is going to make a video?

cheapest way may actually be to get one of those $60 android micro PCs.

>>438074
my fucking sides

um...
>watertight box
>clear
>rustoleum

....sounds like OP is painting plastic.
if OP is spraying rustoleum straight onto plastic, this may not go very well.

can i ask what the watertight box is for and why you want to paint it? im so curious now lol

>>438133
nice work man congrats! hitting that thing with a little of that spray every once in a while will probably keep any future mold out, but you're probably 100% right about the clog causing the mold. yuck. bravo to you for fixing it rather than throwing it out.