/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Will try to move down the box 1st. I will have to make sure it meets the ground to box distance requirement. I just wanted to make sure a splice wouldn't cause any issues on service wire if I go that route. Thanks everyone!

Its a 200 amp service feed i am not sure of the wire size 0 maybe? Something as pictured?

Too much $ to run underground 220 feet, inline splice? Power company will hook up the other end... I was thinking inline splice?

Someone cut one of the two main hot feeds as pictured (buried wire from provider), and now that wire is too short to goto the top the the meter box, options???

Well, we are at the end with my project, i did manage to make the bjt buffer to keep the direct logic on my board, tested the transistor part before soldering it with a little load and it works and the "logic and signal" part worked too when i tested before soldering, tomorrow i'll just connect the real deal and see if it explodes on my face! i did make some obscenely big 12V and GND connections using a lot of cables to make sure the 10A don't damage the board or just heat solder too much

>>1977667
a PID controller it's more than 30€, i can make 5 for 10€ and i already have people who want the other 4 so it's a nice little weekend project and i can even come out of it with beer money

>>1977664
nothing too serious, it's in my garage but with no heating in there during winter i still go down to 10°C there at night and i need at least 20+ °C

>>1977637
yeah but i kinda want to have some safeguard against components failure, it's still a 100W heater i don't really want it to go 100% on if something fails
>>1977647
I'm making a small arduino based PID controller to heat up a small enclosure, the PID is for having a somewhat stable temp and to avoid having the spikes of an ON-OFF controller, i did the code and i made a nice looking board but to get the board, key factors where make it small and simple so in the final version i have a nice logic voltage transistor so that i don't need a controller and can just use the arduino PWM to drive it.
All nice but the boards and the components take time to get here and we are near christams so i'm expecting all the stuff to be here next year, so i'm making a temporary board with perf-board and what little i have here right now, the only problem is the big 15+ A capable mosfet that needs some circuitry to drive, using a single BJT inverts the control logic but also makes it so that if something fails the heater is on 100% and i'm not expecting to check the enclosure often so it's a big safety issue. some kind anon suggested to use two and make a bjt "buffer" to drive it, i found the circuit above and tested it but while in the forum i found it they said that is should work fine (and indeed it does) it still inverts logic, other push-pull circuits i found won't work with the 5V signal driving 12v

>>1977250
ok so tried out this circuit, 5V Vi and get the proper 10+ volts i want that drive the irfb7545pbf (with resistors for fast discharge and inrush current limiting) but the output at Vo is still inverted, the classic NPN+PNP circuit i saw around has the same problem or that should maintain the high logic of Vi (Vi high>Vo high)?

>>1977291
I'm Just trying to make-do with the very limited stuff i have now, i'm using Logic voltage mosfets on the final boards so it's Just a problem on making a single handmade board work with limited components while the real One gets here, also the biggest factor so far Is that i'm a retard and i Just want to make sure i'm not making very bad mistakes, a lot of kind people helped me while i couldn't really find good answers for my case with Just Google

>>1977271
The circuit was Just found online, but It resembled what i'd do when thinking i Need two BJTs ti make the MOSFET buffer, good thing i did because i didn't think about the diode. Anyway thanks i'll surely check datasheets tomorrow when i'll be back to finish It, third resistor seems like the best idea since i have a single 12V PSU (meanwell like) that Powers the board (simple L7805 for 5V regulation for the Arduino and 1602 LCD not filtered, i have the on-board regulators and filters to take care of some noise and i hope it's enough) and i Just feed the 12V to a 100W PTC heater (yeah i'm not gonna let It self regulate i Guess, but i did Always chose components and sized stuff for 15A so more or less treating It as a normal resistive load) and The frequency of the PWM It's the standard Arduino One so nothing really too fast

One final Stretch: components and board are ordered but i'll probably have to wait till next year now to receive them so i made a Quick and ugly board with perforated board and thin Wires for signals, so far it's good but i Need to do the 2 BJT trick a kind anon mentioned to keep the correct Logic for the IRFB7545PBF i'm using on the version 0 board, i Guess i Just Need to wire them like Pic related with maybe a third resistor on VO before the MOSFET gate right? And i Guess i don't really Need a big diode because the current flowing trough the 2 BJT won't be that High right?

>>1976670
Nothing fancy really, i Simply made a Quick 3 Button event handler with "AceButton" library to set an index to either 1 or 0, if the index Is at One i print a special character on an LCD to notify you are setting target temp and pressing the other Two buttons while index Is 1 let's you add or remove One from setpoint, then in the loop i Just print temps, check buttons and call the PID function from another library (don't Remember the name for that i'll write It later) to calculated output and Just write to output the value
>>1976729
I kinda wanted to have boards made from JLPCB so i either have to remove silkscreen or edit It in some way i don't know to make this possible, but for the beta board since i'll use perforated board and the 2 BJT+MOSFET setup i'll Just add some bigger Wires like you said

Thanks to this board i got a nice working prototype and the right components, the Arduino based PID Is working fine and the board Is very nicely done but i only have a bit of an issue,or Better another doubt:
i'm using a 100w heater at 12V so it's gonna Need big traces on the PCB, but i'm also never gonna use It even near 100% on for the small enclosure (i can limit in the PID the max PWM value but i have very conservatives parameters since the enclosure Is small and the temperature difference won't really be big, so do i really Need the 7mm Wide traces that could more reliably handle 10A or i can Just keep the board i made now with a more "standard" 4mm width for the Power Lines?
Just give me your opinion fortunately i managed to remove quite some components so It's an Easy board but the size alone of those "required" traces makes me want to Just make a 12v and GND Plane of opposing sides and route signals across those

>>1974310
thanks man, i really apreciate the help!

>>1974275
Damn, good thing it's a one time thing, next time i need to get those fancy logic level mosfets so i can just drive it directly, if i'll make it a board/kit i'll see to change that but for my use it's ok....any good components similar to my IRFB7545PBF but with logic voltages?

>>1974191
Thanks, just to make sure it's like this, right? but won't it have problems considering that i have VCC at 12v and the controlling PWM being at 0-5V? like not complete turn-off or on translating in a not complete turn on/off of the mosfet?

>>1974166
i am aware, controlling loads this way it's always a big no-no, even more if it's a heater.
Any idea on how to efficently keep the positive logic?

looks like i missed the new general so:
Hi DIY-anons, it's me back with my dumb questions: i should receive the powermos shortly so i was changing the power stage for the heater to use that instead and drive it with a BJT (it will invert output logic but i want to keep it as simple as possible)
So this should be ok or i need some kind of pull down resistor to discharge the powermos quickly to keep it nice and quick? name on the board is a placeholder the real one is a IRFB7545PBF

Hi DIY-anons, it's me back with my dumb questions: i should receive the powermos shortly so i was changing the power stage for the heater to use that instead and drive it with a BJT (it will invert output logic but i want to keep it as simple as possible)
So this should be ok or i need some kind of pull down resistor to discharge the powermos quickly to keep it nice and quick? name on the board is a placeholder the real one is a IRFB7545PBF

>>1963416
>>Dey tuk ar jerbs!
Based MexicCAN ultralaborer literally sweeping the streets clean of lazy asses. Work harder AND smarter muthafucka

Thanks for all the comments guys, basically i was Just looking at what i have at hand right now since i didn't really want to order stuff for such a simple circuit but i Guess i really forgot most of my electronics past now.
>>1962260
Well i have a 2N3055 in TO-3 package, what about that? Big package for big Powers and It should be rated for 15A

>>1950954
some folk pay others to hack
if you know one let me in... id like to see the chats of my beloved gf

anyone has any experience hijacking Facebook profiles? is there a buisness for that?
-help a fallen Bro