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/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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>> No.1637731 [View]

>>1637688

go buy 2 wrenches about idk 1/2 or 7/16

take each wrench and put the box end over the rod, then use the leverage gained by the wrenches to bend the rod

kinda like double wrenching but only
with one wrench. twice. and on a rod that you want to bend instead of a nut that you want to loosen

>> No.1637727 [View]

>>1637557

i much prefer a disc grinder to a belt grinder for knife bevels but that's just my personal preference.

i do agree that a 1" is going to be very difficult to get an even grind with on a bigger knife. 2" is hard as it is.

>> No.1637726 [View]

>>1637201

wrenches are crucial. if i were doing things around the house i would omit the wrenches but as a heavy duty mech it would be possible but very inconvenient if i was forced to do without them

>> No.1637723 [View]

>>1632136

>Hardware doesn't use "languages". Hardware communicates with binary data

it was an analogy, sorry that you took it literally

>the sticking point for this is the MIPI interface on the camera and display. There's some details about the MIPI interface online, but it's not the full spec

>Also, MIPI is a fairly demanding interface so you'll need a reasonably powerful FPGA just to communicate with it.

and this is the exact point i was making. you clearly have more knowledge than me on the subject and i thank you for translating my post to a more advanced vernacular.

>> No.1637123 [View]

>>1637029

i personally dont feel a bandsaw is necessary

>> No.1637119 [View]

a lot of times i just raw dog it no lube because fuck it im not building a space shuttle and if i took the time to perfect every tiny detail i would never accomplish anything and my bosses would hate me even more than they do now

>> No.1637116 [View]

>>1637106

big negative screwdriver
small negative screwdriver
big positive screwdriver
small positive screwdriver
quick change 1/4 bit type screwdriver
every torx and allen in 1/4 bit
misc phillipe robertson etc 1/4 bits

3/8 ratchet
3/8 extensions of varying sizes 3 of em
3/8 universal
1/4 -> 1 1/8, 3/8 drive sockets
1/2, 9/16, 3/4, 3/8 drive deep sockets
bigger torx and allen 3/8 drive sockets

1/4 -> 15/16 wrenches
one medium crescent
one big crescent
10mm, 8mm wrenches
1/2, 9/16, 3/4 ratchet wrenches

12 inch combo square
tape measure
soapstone
tip cleaners
safety glasses
one left hand glove
lighter

center punch
roll pin punch
medium chisel
long tapered punch
medium to small ball peen hammer
olfa knife
thread tape
sharpie

good multimeter
sizable 18 gauge red/black wire chunks
fuses assorted
crimp on eyelets assorted sizes
black tape

emery cloth 80 grit
small wire brush
scotchbrite
small can of penetrating oil

you can complete 95% of tasks with the above, no question

>> No.1635842 [View]

>>1635692

any locking junk that isnt a stover nut i avoid at all costs

i don't use washers usually either. unless the hole looks like shit or its rounded out. washers make shit come loose

>> No.1635841 [View]

>>1635254

for the injection pump your best bet is to somehow make a mechanically variable displacement axial piston pump. have your throttle and linkage or cables move the swashplate to stroke the pump for more or less fuel delivery to the injector, and make the injector a cam actuated plunger type injector, like cummins' last system pre common rail. HPT i think it was called. used on N14s and what have you.

reasoning for this is because its really easy to time, just have slots cut in a gear for bolt holes. then you can loosen the bolts and move the gear to advance or retard the timing.

a governor is probably going to be required, but you could try just putting an adjustable poppet in the injector that cracks open to return to the fuel tank. have the spring sit against a set screw that you can tighten or loosen to adjust spring tension and cracking pressure for it to return to tank

>> No.1635839 [View]

>>1633958

you wont shape good tool steel by hand. it skates files. sandpaper and a block works but takes a loooong time

>> No.1635830 [View]

>>1625424

i have a bunch of cheap torx and allen 3/8 drive sockets that i bent like your pic related and they're garb for pretty well everything

>> No.1633111 [View]

>>1633107

sorry didnt read thread

just use an angle grinder and zipcut the top of it off in 1/4 or less increments until you find the motor shaft. if you cut a bit off the motor shaft its not the end of the world. then once you see the sides of the shaft itll be easier to cut the whole works off

>> No.1633107 [View]

>>1632516

in that case i have no idea and i've never seen anything like that before. what's it out of?

>> No.1632089 [View]

>>1631347

hacksaw, zipcut, die grind a slot in it for a screwdriver

personally i very rarely fuck with a bolt like that. either put a pair of visegrips on it or buck it off with a torch. or zipcut either in a die grinder or angle grinder. not worth the time spent unless theres no other option

>> No.1632083 [View]

>>1631858

unless you can reverse engineer their proprietary software to translate the language that their hardware uses to communicate you're not going to be successful. except the flash and the battery. maybe the buttons and switch, and shit like resistors, diodes, relays

shit like the camera will output the data it captures in a way that only apple knows how to read it and get anything useable out of it

>> No.1632078 [View]

why is there thread tape on it

>> No.1632075 [View]

>>1631945
>OP I’ve worked on these professionally

>rotor/flywheel/magneto/magneto/whatever you wanna call it is defective

all 3 of these are different things.

a flywheel is there to add weight or for gear reduction

a rotor is a winding around an ironstack or squirrel cage that generates a field when it spins inside of a stator

a magneto spins inside a stator as well but it is like a cup shape and it will have a lobe or some other means of either opening and closing breaker points or signalling a capacitor to discharge at specific times

>> No.1632072 [View]

>>1631948

it takes a lot of years to be comfortable in a shop

if i had a choice between a university student that has never picked up a tool in his life or a person of equal age that grew up in a shop and knew when to use what tool and how to use it etc ill take the person with experience any day

it takes a looot of time to be comfortable and to build up the skill of proper judgement on the correct way to complete each job, as well as what tools to use

a person with no experience and just a degree will sit there and hammer on something for hours because he doesn't even consider other tools that he may not even know exist

the person with experience will come over with a slack adjuster puller and be done in 2 seconds

it will take that university degree plus 15 years to get to the same level as the guy whose already been in a shop his whole life. who gives a shit if he doesn't know calculus, differential equations, or heat transfer

>> No.1632066 [View]

>>1629335

a knuckle is not a spindle, a spindle is not a hub. a hub is not a knuckle

a spindle is a fixed straight shaft. solid.

a hub is the piece with a hole in the middle, with a bearing usually, that goes over a spindle

this assembly is sometimes, but not always, mounted to a knuckle to allow it to pivot. sometimes the spindle and knuckle are one solid piece. in this case its still called a spindle and a knuckle, or the knuckle's spindle

if the spindle is fixed solid and cannot move in anyway, there is no knuckle. a knuckle has to be able to move to be called a knuckle

>> No.1632044 [View]

all those rusted little round things are bolts that go through the motor to the other side

>> No.1632042 [View]

i'm laughing pretty damn hard over you using a gas filler rod in a stick welder, thats a new one

get some 1/16 or more likely 3/32 7018 and try again

>> No.1632036 [View]

>>1631991

as long as they're sealed bearings you'll be fine

>> No.1632035 [View]

>>1632009

a diesel needs 250-500 psi to operate, and without a mill or lathe this won't be happening.

how are you going to sleeve the cylinder? will you shrink fit it with nitrogen? or use a wet liner with an o-ring seal on the bottom?

will this be naturally aspirated or have a turbo?

have you got a solid understanding of injection pump timing? the fuel has to be metered and atomized at the right time
or you'll get detonation, pre ignition, etc

how will you make the gear train? camshaft? valves? rockers? balancing gear? oil pump? piston rings? crankshaft? crank bearings? rod bearings? wrist pin? all need to be hardened steel. cast iron parts wont last a day.

camshaft on top or by the crank?

how will you do the valve timing? you need to get at the most basic level, the intake valve, the exhaust valve, piston BTDC, and the fuel atomization, all timed with one another. this also has to be adjustable because you'll end up with so many major parts essentially having to be remade every time you are off a few degrees on your timing

a single cylinder diesel can be had from china for maybe a bit over 200$.

tl;dr you're going to end up having to buy so many parts because you cant feasibly make them, you might as well just buy a motor. im skeptical you could even make a functional block with oil galleries and water jackets. even then you would still have to buy a sleeve to put in it because a cast iron cylinder won't work

>> No.1629413 [View]

>>1629007

just did

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