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/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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>> No.289901 [View]

>>289889
Also, have you tried using your blaster without a nozzle on the tip? The ones that come with the blaster are notorious as junk.

>> No.289899 [View]

>>289848
Have you considered a finer abrasive, like crushed walnut shells or foundry slag (black beauty in the states)?

>>289889
The air dryer goes before the media tank, so it should be a 1/4 fitting. Moisture from the compressor tank can cause the media to stick together, especially in a gravity feed system like yours.

>> No.289891 [View]

>>289857
Spackle is a gypsum (calcium sulfate dihydrate) paste.

Joint compound is limestone (calcium carbonate) based.

Different compositions, but essentially the same purpose. Joint compound dries much faster, and works down easier in my experience.

>> No.289882 [View]

>>289861
Tools. Thats how I started, and thats where most instructional books start.

Garden tools are usually a good start. Small trowels and soil breaking tools require all the most basic levels of techniques used in proper blade fashioning. Drawing out steel, getting a feel for hammer fall, building muscles to the point you can take full advantage of a charge, learning proper posture, learning what different hammers do, tapering tangs, basic jump welding, proper heating and cooling of steel, low grade tempering, temperature readings, quenching technique and theory, proper application and use of stones, etc.

Beyond that, hand tools, specialty tools, and ornamental work are all good practice.

Cutting a knife out of stock doesn't require a forge. Proper blade smithing is a high grade metalworking technique, that requires many different subsets of knowledge and experience.

>> No.289876 [View]

>>289802
Did you ask if they have bulk discounts? Even if you only have 450 pages to print now, ask if there is a discount at 1000. Arrange to pre-purchase credits towards future printing.

>> No.289860 [View]

>>289858
I recommend you use any available round sealed beam headlamp. They'll project the light forward, and usually don't cost more than $20.

>> No.289858 [View]

You should really include a fuse or relay in the design. 40A should be plenty for a headlamp.

Get some red and black wire. Connect the red wire to the positive battery terminal (use a ring terminal, and a terminal crimper, then remove the nut from the bolt on the battery terminal clamp, and slip the ring terminal on the bolt, torque the nut back onto the bolt).

The black wire should be grounded, so you can just make an electrical connection anywhere on the frame, (not the goddamn fuel tank, though). Usually, just crimping on a ring terminal, and backing out a bolt nearby, and slipping it in will suffice, assuming there isn't enough paint in the way to keep the circuit open.

At this point, use a multimeter or test light to check for conductivity between the open leads on the black and red wire.

If conductivity is good, go ahead and wire the fuse or relay onto the red wire. Then, if you use a relay, wire the switch into it accordingly, based on the schematic printed on the relay. If you use a fuse, just include the switch inline. Check again for conductivity between the open leads, with the switch in the on and off positions.

Beyond that, just crimp the wires into the appropriate connector for the headlamp, hook it up, and test.

>> No.289849 [View]

>doesn't know forge construction principles
>only wants to make advanced tools

Kids these days...

>google brake drum forge
>go to a truck repair shop
>ask for a discarded brake drum
>offer $5 if they say no

I'm not going to say that its impossible to make good blades starting out, but it isn't really a beginner's project.

http://anvilfire.com/21centbs/armor/

>> No.289846 [View]

>>289842
What media/nozzle size/pickup tube (gravity feed?) are you using? Are you using an air dryer?

>> No.289845 [View]

If its right around the window framing, and less than 1/4 or so, use caulk.

The crack is definitely a joint compound fix, assuming this is a gypsum wall. It its a spackle covered wall, use spackle.

>> No.289330 [View]

>>284375
Nope. It was just an old engineer that drove it to work and home every day for 30 years. Said it was about 40 miles each way, and checking the math, he didn't use it for much more than that. He was selling it because he was retiring, and bought a new pickup to replace it.

>> No.289015 [View]

>>289014
You can also just use a carburetor jet instead of a fuel injector.

>> No.289014 [View]

>fuel pump
>fuel injector
>relay
>some wiring/hoses
>small tank
>mount injector nozzle facing backward inside rear bumper
>drill hole small enough to just barely clear the injector tip
>wire up relay to a switch on the dash
>plumb the tank to the fuel pump
>fuel pump to injector
>fill the tank with rotten piss

The fine mist will be undetectable at speed, outside of the growing, overwhelming stench of rotten piss growing in their cabin air filter, and all over the front of their car.

>> No.289011 [View]

>>285799
Please see the post below yours. It was explained in my post that the $5000 was an initial investment in a license, and I included expected returns, and how those returns would be best invested to start a business.

Think of the first few years as a company driver as a paid internship. Talk to everyone. Learn everything. Suffer none of the major risks of loss.

>> No.289002 [View]

If I'm off on a walk and I find a particularly interesting geological site, I'll usually knap myself together some rudimentary geological tools (hand axe, small hammer, sharp blade for breaking apart shale, scraping tools, etc.). Then, when I'm done with them, I can just toss them on the ground and walk away.

A good fist sized piece of granite usually works as a hammerstone for my purposes, since I don't need precise shapes or sizes, but it I can, I'll find a tree stump or railroad track.

The best way to learn is to just keep breaking rocks. I find just letting the stone work its own shape out to be fascinating sometimes, even if nothing useful usually comes of it.

>> No.285504 [View]

Don't worry. Welders usually go too blind to weld well before 20 years. You'll be due for a career change right around your midlife crisis.

>> No.285301 [View]

>>285276
Operating costs for trucks increase as they age, to the point they often outweigh the cost of a new truck payment, when they're driven by company drivers.

The maximum realistic lifespan for a truck with a company driver in it is about 8 years before it starts becoming a net loss. 3-5 years is often the peak of revenue for a truck, since it will be paid off, but not broken down enough to need serious repairs.

>>285283
Yes, you hire drivers to fill the trucks, hopefully they're more experienced than you are at first, and you pay a premium for that to help make sure they don't run the place into the ground before a single destroyed truck isn't a sizeable amount of your profit potential wiped out.

Nothing is stopping them from doing that. Hell, offer them a lease agreement to buy a truck from you. Skim a bit of interest off the top, and keep the truck if they walk away, and put another warm body in it. If they pay it off and leave, oh well. Buy another truck, get another driver.

>>285290
No, thats a broker's job. They call people/get called by people that have freight, then you call a broker/a broker calls you with freight. From there, you can eventually start tying down contracts through brokers, or getting some decent figures behind your company name, and sell your services to a company directly. Business/economics/engineering majors thrive in this field.

>> No.285267 [View]
File: 1.89 MB, 3264x2448, 2012-08-23_16-08-56_619.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
285267

>BUSINESS IDEA:
Trucking business.
>STARTUP COST:
$0 cash
$5000 bank loan
>SKILLS REQUIRED:
CDL class A
Ability to pass drug tests
A pulse
>TOOLS REQUIRED:
Cell phone with data connection
>WORK INVOLVED:
Truck driving
>PROFIT:
First 5 years using extremely conservative estimates
$20,000
$40,000
$40,000
$80,000
$80,000
>OTHER INFO:
Get a bank loan to get a CDL A. They're handing these out like candy. Pay the loan back with the first year's profits as a company driver.
Use profit from year two to invest in a truck and trailer, as well as added cost of business.
Use profit from year 3 to reinvest in the company
In years 4+, either maintain the company at one truck, or reinvest profit in additional trucks. A model that usually works is sell 1 truck, buy 2 trucks, sell 2 trucks, buy 4 trucks. By the time you get up to 4 trucks, you should be back up to even with year 4's profit. Anything beyond that is gravy.

Its working for me so far. I'm in year 3, and the profit figures I posted are well below what I earned post expense/tax.

>> No.285252 [View]

Can't help you. My only schooling with mushroom propagation involves near sterile growing conditions. If you aren't willing to buy a container to grow them in, there isn't anything I can do to help you.

>> No.285138 [View]

Get some low weight un-dyed deerskins or suede. If you soak it in water, then dry it wrapped tightly around a mold (tie it down with wire or string) using a high powered fan, or a blow dryer on very low heat, it'll hold a basic shape.

I recommend soda cans, especially if you've going for an ear with a very broad base, and you can bend them in a bit for some details. Make the curve tighter than you want, and then bend it out slightly when you secure it, and it'll hold taught. I used the same method to make leather bracelets and chokers, though I used tooling leather with weights in the double digits.

I like >>285119 's suggestion as well. Rabbit fur is likely the right texture you'd be looking for in a "realistic" cat ear.

>> No.285131 [View]
File: 11 KB, 400x268, DSC_0723.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
285131

>>285126
Freeform circuitry can be pretty badass.

I used extra clipped leads along soldered leads for strength, and heat shrink tubing when possible. The heat shrink usually had to be supplemented with either vinyl tape, or liquid electrical tape.

I still get away with some freeform circuits whenever I'm doing essentially anything less complicated than a 6 pin IC. Arrange it all right, and with enough insulation on the leads, and you can usually stuff it all into a large heat shrink tube for a tight package.

"Beam robotics" is a pretty good search term for some examples of freeform circuitry. Its got some pretty good concepts for entry level circuitry as well.

>> No.284247 [View]

>>284242
Have you not seen the bumper on a car made in the last 20 years?

>> No.284246 [View]

A heavy canvas curtain might help.

You could also wear headphones.

>> No.284241 [View]

>>284234
Yeah, thats probably what they meant. I don't know where you live, but I've never seen an asbestos brake shoe on a truck in murrika. They're changed every 1-3 years, so I don't see how one would still be used decades after they were no longer the norm.

If you're paranoid about it, just pressure wash them at a car wash on the way home.

>>284237
I've got a 1979 mercedes benz 300SD (w116 chassis) with about 1,200,000kms on it. I blew the torque converter, but the engine still runs like a top.

Looking for a smaller car to cram the engine in, since I was getting about 33mpg (7.1l/100km) in a 3700lb (1600kg) car if I can find a manual transmission to mount to this engine (very rare in north america, may end up having to fabricate an adapter plate).

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