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/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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>> No.298957 [View]

>>298954
Its technically a tool for wasp removal. OP being 12 aside, its a legitimate thread.

>> No.298956 [View]

Use 99% isopropyl alcohol, not charcoal fluid. Also, an intermittent spray pattern will prevent backflash. Just use a spray bottle and a handheld propane torch.

>> No.298707 [View]

>>298652
1:5 urine dilution in water makes a decent fertilizer for household and garden plants. Just spray it all over those plants.

>> No.298704 [View]

You could make some cupric chloride (aq) with some copper scrap and the hydrochloric acid. Its hand for PCB and metal etching.

>> No.298703 [View]

Its really just a simple 2-part silicone mold. Tapplastics sells a pourable, and a moldable form especially for foodsafe use.

All of these products have tutorials.

Their easymold silicone putty is more ideal for the mold making novice.

http://www.tapplastics.com/product_info/mold_making_guide

>> No.298696 [View]

Read up on anvilfire, use a fume/exhaust hood as applicable, and use a goddamn carbon monoxide detector in your work area.

I've cast aluminum from scrap for years, and it can give off some nasty fumes. Work outdoors if possible, and keep the wind direction in mind. When you're doing a charge on your crucible, pack it, cover it, drop it in the furnace, and walk away, as far as you can. I use propane and forced induction oil in my cupola, so there is no reason for me to be standing over the charge. I just watch the work area from about 30 feet, usually cutting up more scrap in the meantime, or working on my cope and drag, and the shits ready in 10 minutes.

Open the crucible, dross, recharge, pour. I'm only within 5 feet of the crucible for maybe 2 minutes the entire time.

If you're really worried about fumes, I'd recommend a high volume box fan over a gas mask. A gas mask will limit your field of vision, be an utter distraction for casting, and can fog up and make you do something stupid. I will suggest some welding goggles if you go with propane, though, since all of my propane forges have given off enough UV radiation to burn spectators 10 feet from the forge opening.

>> No.295574 [View]

Tried soap hot water yet? Thats about as good as you're going to get without buying a degreaser. I'm assuming you own soap.

>> No.295573 [View]

Ebay.

Search for leather remnants. I got enough for about 8 wallets for $10 a few years ago.

Tack and saddle shops are another option.

>> No.295571 [View]

>>295564
Pretty sure someone else already copyrighted them. Been seeing them on products in stores for a while.

>> No.295570 [View]

>>295555
I was going to stay spray them with fire.

Get a handheld propane torch, fill up your pump sprayer with 99% isopropyl alcohol, and go to town. Quick bursts of combustion will take out small pieces of protein, but not much else. Just don't soak anything down in alcohol before you get started.

Used to do essentially the same thing to take out japanese beetles, but I used a standard spray bottle for the alcohol. Killed thousands of those fuckers in about 20 minutes.

>> No.295569 [View]

>>295560
Oh fuck, man, I thought you meant you were growing an actual beard. Shave that off. It'll just look wrong after you trim it.

>> No.295520 [View]

>>295505
Tapplastics.com

>> No.295446 [View]

>>295330
You don't have to melt them. You can ram the powder into a rocket engine shell between caps of bitumen, and include a fuse for ease of use.

>> No.295442 [View]

>>295181
Why and where the hell would you pay for training?

There are hundreds of thousands of farmers near or past retirement age wishing their children would have stayed on the farm. Most are more than willing to teach you everything they know about raising a crop and livestock, and many will house, feed, and sometimes pay you in return for the work you help them do while learning.

Don't worry if its not a crop you don't see yourself growing, or if its all industrial farming. A seed is a seed, and if you know how to grow and harvest it one way with high yields, you'll be able to adapt somehow.

>> No.295439 [View]

>>295143
You're a shit DM if you allow anything but regulation dice.

Just make a random digit generator. They're much easier to make random.

>> No.295435 [View]

>>295198
You meant butt splices. More likely than not, the crimp on ones, because fuck doing any electronics repair properly, this is di motherfucking y.

>> No.295432 [View]

>get a bigger bracket
>put it over the old one

Or, you know, just pay for the shit you fucked up.

>> No.291781 [View]

>get an electric oven or two
>gut them
>fashion together some sheet metal the size needed for whatever you're powder coating
>don't forget hooks for hanging the the pieces by wire
>line with refractory
>install guts from ovens

I suggest a ceramic fiber refractory with some ITC-100 coating, but thats probably overkill for such low temperatures (I use it in my 3000F range forge/foundry). You can probably get away with fireplace bricks coated in ITC-100.

>> No.291780 [View]

>>291776
I've done a little lampwork by modifying some of my metalcasting equipment, and buying a few tubes to play with. That was enough for me to know I don't have the patience for tempering the glass once I'm done, and only put me out about $20 over what I already had/made.

Grab a few lime ash tubes, a bunsen burner, some tongs, a mouth piece, a few tools, and some pearlite. You won't make anything fantastic, and almost everything you make at first will break/have weak spots/come out wrong in general, but thats less than $100 to get a feel for it hands on.

Watch a video or two before on making simple things, like test tubes, simple bulbs, and elongated bulbs. I had plenty enough fun blowing and cutting the glass to make it worthwhile for me.

>> No.290198 [View]

>>289930
I second the wire wheels, but he may also want to look into a flap disc for the flat sections. Its absolutely orgasmic watching that paint fly off.

>> No.289913 [View]

>>289909
Yes, at the compressor outlet is a good place to install an air dryer.

A tool shop may not be the best source. Contact building and industrial suppliers. Ask if they have abrasive blasting media. You can probably get 50lb bags for much cheaper than what some place like harbor freight would charge.

>> No.289910 [View]

>>289886
Yes, the bare metal. If you have any doubts about where to ground it, use the ground strap for the alternator, where it attaches to the frame.

You won't get shocked unless you're touching the positive terminal of the battery, or a bare wire coming from it, along with the ground/negative battery terminal. Current only flows through a conducive object (you are a very conducive object) if the circuit is completed between the two terminals.

>> No.289907 [View]

Isn't a GBA only worth about $5? Just start the minimum bid at $5.

>> No.289905 [View]

>>289896
Wash it with a rag, wrung out in a mildy soapy solution of water. You aren't trying to soak whats left, just wash all the dust and any grease off. Allow it to dry for a day. You want the surface to be fairly rough to allow the joint compound something to adhere to. If you do want to sand, use something very coarse, then wash as above.

From there, apply the joint compound according to the directions. Sand when dry. Wash and dry again before painting.

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